Good day! DK from Mr. V Amps here! For well over 15 years, I've built the finest computers that this part of the USA has had the privilege to own. I've even sent a few off across the sea for others to enjoy. Like many other technical hobbyists, I play music. Although primarily a drummer, I play bass and guitar too. Since I enjoy building electronic things and seeing them come to life, I spend my off hours fixing guitars and amplifiers... as well as building my own line of custom amps from kit or from scratch. My objective is NOT to re-create a famous amp that everyone knows about, but instead to take existing amps, and hybrid them with my own ideas. Thanks go to other amp guys and radio techs on KZread who have inspired me to take on more ambitious projects.
In my videos, all the Mr. V Amps and equipment I show are the prototypes for equipment that you can buy at www.mrvamps.com. If you want to have one of my Amps made for you, I'll be glad to help!
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Keep in mind that the supplied cable with Pyle-Pro has a 1/4" TS, so it is unbalanced, and your mic will remain unbalanced if you use it. You can modify the cable with an XLR end, or a TRS connector (or buy a balanced cable). I'm not sure whether or not the capsule positive (red) terminal must connect to pin 2 (hot) to maintain phase balance. I don't think it matters on a dynamic mic like the PP, so either capsule terminal can go to hot. Does anyone know for sure?
Sir i cant thank you enough for your video. I fixed my HK amp "for now" exact same issue . I may try to unload it . At least it will kick the can down the rosd a little longer!
This was made during the "cap plague" years... so using cheap parts in years where cheap parts were known to fail soon just sets the death clock the day it left the factory. At present day, the "store brand" caps from Jameco would be what I'd use... and odds are it will hang in there another 10 years. I don't know what the MSRP was on this, as I never looked... but it seems like it was trying to compete with Line6.
Good to know this is normal! Cheers. :D
For many amps, it's just how it is.
I have three of the older Kustom 200 amps. Two are bass versions and the other has reverb and vibrato. The RVT 200 has it's original 2 x 15" cabinet loaded with two Altec 421 speakers. I replaced the power supply capacitors in all of them and one has been converted to a three prong power chord. I was amazed at how bad the controls are on this amp in the video but that is probably attrited to the amp being improperly stored I see this a lot in Florida where unfortunately live now. Amps, both hifi and guitar should NEVER be stored in a non climate controlled environment unless you want the thing to develop serious issues.
@@archangele1 humid environments and electronics are not a good match. Cool and dry is the best.
I was just sent the link to this video. I once owned this very amp and played it a lot of gigs wiith it. I sold it to the guy who sent it to you for repair probably about 10 years or so ago. That thing has some stories to tell! I used it exclusively for bass. It has a fantastic growl. I do miss it. Bet bass amp I've ever owned. Great seeing it apart and backup and running properly!
Cool... I've not heard much about it since it left the shop, So I hope it's still producing music, and making the owner happy.
You were driving me crazy trying to raise the tonearm when it was locked and then you pushed it down while the lever was in the raised position. Did you push some damping fluid out? I couldn't finish watching the video.
These things sound a like AM radio station
That's a fair assessment.
Thanks for the video. I got one similar as that, the SL-2 ,but I could not remove the arm to clean it.
It's been too long... I can't remember how to do it.
@@DeadKoby Thanks for answering anyway.
Olá, essa caixa tem o alto falante de quantas polegadas ? E são quantos watts rms?
I sold it long ago... but I think it was 12 in.
Peavey Black Widow
My first amp in 1975. One channel, reverb overdrive knob, but I always wanted a bandit
@@rickscanlon6851 the pacer has its fans too. This one sold fast.
Nice job. Still curious why the hole was drilled through the logo? Some mysteries will never be solved.
@@rodneykroetsch2924 maybe a master volume mod...
What were you able to sell it for? Just picked one up and wanting to know how much to insure it for on my gear insurance. Thanks!
Wow... I really don't remember. I'd say 800$ would be an ok number for insurance.
I love Gibson however these are junk.....
Still working properly after 15 years.....
@DeadKoby I just got the new one and nothing but problems I work on guitars 🎸 all the time been playing for five decades gess I got a Lemmon oh hell this self tuners not for me..
I've got 4 different self-tuners. Gen-1 SG Robot. Gen-2 DarkFire, and G-Force 2015's (2). Everything has continued to work for me... with the Gen1 needing me to make it a new battery.. The 12v DC Charge brick for the Gen1 failed too, but that was easy to solve also. The Gen1 is 15 years old now... so batteries and an AC adapter isn't too bad. They aren't for everyone... and I think they should have been OPTIONAL in the 2015 years.
@@DeadKoby that's awesome 👌
Thank you for posting this 🫡🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻🤘🏼
@@Offbeatmilan glad you like it.
Pretty basic system. Didn't hear you test the Reverb. Was my first PA in about 1971 and we soon found that it was severely under powered for what we wanted it to do. Didn't use the Shure cabinet speakers and opted to use 2 4X12 Columns later adding Altec horns on top(811s?). Shure couldn't drive that stuff for sure(retrospect) Got a mixing board(4channel) and a Phase Linear 400. Then of course we had to build Altec A7s. Shure was good for small gigs. But Rock? No way
I got this one for chump change, and it was fun. It's really for 100% voices, and projects well. You don't want to run a bass through it... or something dies.
Very helpful, thank you DK
Not a problem. If you are building this project, I wish you happy soldering.
Hi, my Crate BX 100 which i bought used, starts to buzz and crack and the volume fades when the amp is warmed up after playing some time. It does not happen all the time, and i have not tried it in high volume. The sound just crack and fade and then comes back. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the master volume pot and the buzz didn't appear for few months but now it's back.
Pot cleaning is always a good thing. Also chopsticking the circuit board for a broken connection. Thats where I would start.
I have a Samson expedition xp112a when I plug it in the fan comes on but the power light remains off any suggestions?
Start by checking fuses.
Dr. Frank / MTX forever ❤.
After having this amp for half a year, I've named it "Lucky Badger". This guitar amp is weird in a good way, and I can't think of anything else that sounds quite like it.
I've got a Home Theater amplifier which has this issue. Max draw is 12 amps. Every product I see like this tops out at 6, 8, or 10 amps. Somebody needs to make a big one!
Ok. I can do that. Find me on my web-site.
This video is incredible! Subbed!
Thanks for the sub!
I have one, and it sounds really distorted and bad, I checked the cone and its not the issue, any advice?
Start with the power supply amd move forward.
Very interesting video...I have a Bugera 1960 Infinium tube amp 150 watt...When i switch on it thumps and pops so i make sure it is turned down low for around fifteen minutes to warm up and stop popping. But at times it will pop a couple of times when i play through it even after an hours playing...What can cause that ?? regards
Tubes can tick and pop with expansion as they come up to temp. Search out microphonic tubes.
@@DeadKoby Thank you..i will look into that..best regards.
Not a problem. Best wishes finding your solution.
Hello, I have an old solid state Crate B10 xl bass amplifier that has a single circuit board that’s fairly simple, I’ve been trying to get it working again for a couple of years now. I was playing it and suddenly zero sound but it still powers on. Even if I touch the aux or move the knobs there is no sound. I’ve confirmed that the speaker itself is still good and so is the fuse. There is no sound from the headphones input, there is no visible signs of anything that got hot or shorted. All the wiring is good. The aux inputs are clean and have good contact. I e even re-soldered all the points in case of any cracked soldering but still nothing. I’m suspecting the output mosfet but I can’t tell for sure, I’d appreciate any suggestions.
Always start with the power supply.
Interesting the chip is 32 watts. How can they pass this as a 45watt amp?? Would it be possible to put in a 45watt chip if available?? Btw, great video!!
They used the "Pyle" rating system... Peak output, or peak to peak max output. You can pretend your 10 watt amp is 100 with ratings like that.
Or anyone else I believe wires were crossed afraid to power on. Thanks if you can help??
www.manualslib.com/manual/1220499/Samson-Xp308i.html I don't remember the model number exactly, but search the model and SERVICE MANUAL. it usually has the answers.
Hi i have the exact same system do you have a pic of the inside wire connection on the circuit board show fan and switch and gnd connection
This was a long time ago... the customer took it home.
@@DeadKoby thanks for your response so quickly I will have to find someone who still has one. I hope.
My super champ x2 keeps cutting in and out driving me nuts
Look for cracked solder
Thank you for this excellent video! I just picked up a 520 and I, too, am noticing the adjustment knob needs to be ~3 cents flat. It did not occur to me to use a reference pitch to determine this. It seems most notes require the same adjustment, so I will leave the adjustment knob at -3 cents. Thank you, again!
Glad it helped.
I have amassed some peavy's and a lot are kind of flat. They can easily be .misused. played loud on the speaker,driven with pedals,or perhaps played for very long periods of time in one sitting and driven hot. So yeah most of mine have issues. Quite a while ago though I had a studio pro that I ran with a tubes reamer ts 5.the sound tank jobbie. Great screwball setup. My saturation would be low and perhaps my tone stack a bit bassy but I would use the tubes reamer not so much to drive the amp but to enhance it. Like a treble booster. Between the clipping of the pedal and the clipping of the amp (light clipping) there would be tons of character. I liked the Peavy mainly because it was durable and it's like you just turn it on and it's on. Bam go. Really no fiddling around. I really need to get into fixing amps. One thing I realized about these is the pots are carbon composition and they deteriorate. I wouldn't mind outfitting them with a more quality potentiametre (however those things are spelt)
Late 70's to 80s are the toughest. Put some maxpro spray in the pots and they come right back.
Needs to be serviced by a mesa boogie technician
No. The tremolo is fucked. It's supposed to be way stronger. I had the same issue. It's supposed to be WAY stronger.
Thanks for this video, this was the first and last one I found with this problem. I learned which preamp tube is for which channel. I got the same problem on my VK212 , but at my amp it was the overdrive channel tube, had to replace it and it worked. (To test I switched the clean preamp tube with the one from the Overdrive). Write here to let now other people which are searching for this problem.
Cool. Glad you solved it.
I got one of these from my high school years ago. Unearthed it about a year back and it now plays my Taylor Swift and Ed Sheeran records just fine. Crazy to think those artist were not born when the unit was built. Thank you for showing this example off!
Have fun with yours.
My first guitar amp that I got in 1986. Along with a Harmony Les Paul copy.
Although not a particularly glorious amplifier it gets a job done
I tuned many pianos with one of those in the 80's & 90's. It does a great job but you have to be able to use your ear as well.
Indeed. They sure help though. I've got quite the collection of them..
an informative video thank you for sharing your knowledge.. now I feel more competent with the valve amp..
Thanks. I can always think of MORE things I should have mentioned... but covering the basics was the goal.
👍👍
I have one of these. You almost never see them brought up, let alone for sale. Sucker is heavy too.
It was a weird time for Fender in the 80s
@@DeadKoby From your tone in the video, it must have. Please take with a grain of salt, but I was told the potentiometers for these amps were somehow unique to the series and not available anywhere. Looks like fairly regular pots to me. Any insight on that? Mine is missing a volume control (not the master volume) and a mid for the second channel so that channel only has limited useability. Otherwise perfectly good old amp.
I doubt they are that much different than off the shelf parts. Amplifiedparts likely has something close enough to work.
@@DeadKoby Thanks for the response. I'll check into that.
I have one of these a friend gave me. He is the original owner. I love it, works & sounds great!
Cool.. Glad you like it.
I have the 212 version and the lead 12 combo and the mosfet lead 100 head and these are the best amps for the money built to the same quality as jcm800 series with the same components
The top handle denotes 1981-1984
Thanks for the info.
Спасибо, бро! Привет из Сибири!
"The more you know..."
Many models won't thump or pop if you zero the volume first. Depends on the design though.
@@DeadKoby Yeah, and btw, I've read of so many folks complaining in reviews about the Fender Champion 20 popping when shut off and THAT is the first thing I thought: of too: Why don't they just TRY to Zero out the knob aka turn OFF the Volume level? "Common Sense" is NOT so common as I've gathered. Good thing for Knowledgeable Scientists techs like yourself that can Confirm and explain "problems" like this that may not be actual problems at all to save people from tragically returning Perfectly Good sounding and functioning Amps unnecessarily.
Never forget: That sneaky little imp Murphy will "gotcha" if you're not considerate. See "Murphy's Law", not a TV show.
Electronics run on magical smoke... don't let it escape.
@@DeadKoby I've seen what happens when it does Escape. Smells funny and then nothing works anymore and sometimes that even attracts the Fire Fairies. I always keep a Fire Blanket around anyhow because I don't trust the Magical Smoke in them magical fire extinguishers not to be old and expired either = Murphy's Law again!
I've got exactly the same amp, so this video is a real help. Thank you. The amp was given to me by my brother back in the late 80s. I'm in the process of restoring it. The lead dress on this amp you restored is extremely neat.
Cool, Glad it helped. In the film cap variety, Neither the red/pink Tiny Chief, nor the green caps are known for a long healthy life.... so I just did a mass change-out. amplifiedparts website will have all the parts that you'll need to accomplish the task.
It may seem like an abomination to some, but I am making changes, like using the 2nd half of V1 for a second stage, eliminating vibrato. I love vibrato, but I can get that from a pedal. I'm using a 220k for signal reducer / grid stopper and 470k for grid leak in both stages. Also including the Framus midrange mod. I do not intend to ever give this amp away or sell it, so could care less about keeping it original. I intend to use the Vox tone cut mod, but instead of 4700pf or whatever is used, I'd go to something like 150pf to basically tone down ice pick as needed. I changed up the first coupler to .01 and am using .68pf for cathode bypass, like Friedman's Dirty Shirley. If you have any suggestions about these changes, I'd very much like to hear them. You have the expertise. I'm also installing a WGS Invader 50 / 8 ohm.
Looks good. Sounds good. (As far as I can tell with laptop speakers and tin ears... ;) )
I think it's pretty cool.