Hi there welcome to my channel. I do a variety of things here, welding, locksport, carpentry, electronics, and most importantly engineering. I’m different from most teens as I don’t really like to sit and play video games or hang out with friends; instead I innovate and invent in my garage where I use my tools and my brain to make any idea I have come alive. I also love to do dangerous things like exploding capacitors, playing with transformers, and anything else that might involve an explosion or fire. In my shop I take safety very seriously. I am self taught with a lot of my skills, and I have a background in theatrical tech. I also love hanging out with my grandpa in his machine shop where the two of us can build just about anything. If you like explosions, fire, melting metal, electricity, locks, electronics circuits, pro audio, engineering, and learning new things join me for a wild ride. I’m also on Instagram @theteenageengineer
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Why did the startup screen look like Windows Vista?
Great review. I was wondering what the amplitude is for the signal generator output. I could not find this mentioned in the manual or elsewhere.
@@deanhedin1615 If I remember correctly I think it’s 2 volts peak to peak and unfortunately there’s no settings to change the amplitude. If you need more then 2 volts peak to peak you have to amplify it.
Better pay me 150 everything 10 sec smh
I followed step by step many times and it is not working
Thanks, I just inherited one and I want to learn how to fix car amplifiers etc.
consegue disponibilizar o link para download igual ao seu? os outros estão bugados!
quando eu clico no moving para colocar o canal dele, ele não muda o número, fica em 0
You get the thumbs up, if for nothing else, using Iron Maiden for your backing track.
Grounds are not directly shared - 220 ohms between them with a tester. So some separation there.
not worked
Can you say what the specs are on the coaxial power connector? I've lost my cable and I need to build another one. Polarity, inner and outer diameter.
For the barrel jack on the back?
@@theteenageengineer Yes
@davidvanhorn498 5VDC Inner + Positive. There's little doubt you've already figured out the voltage and polarity by now or... something went horribly wrong.
@@WireWeHere I found the original cable, but having it here may help someone else.
I some other reviews, the test lead is not really good.. and it’s not gold plated, that’s why the continuity has a delay
Test leads being gold plated has nothing to do with continuity delay. Fluke’s gold plated test leads cost about $100 on their own the meter only costs $50. It’s a little ridiculous to expect gold plated and silicone sheath test leads for a $50 meter. I don’t think even the all mighty Fluke 87V comes with gold plated test leads and the 87V is a $500 meter. I’ll agree that the test leads aren’t the best in the world but they certainly aren’t the worst either. And gold plated and thin conductors or not, that has absolutely nothing to do with the continuity delay. Gold plated test leads are really only needed on the highest end of multimeters like ones that are 6 digits and above, and those don’t come in the form of handheld meters. The Fluke 110 series of multimeters are some of the most popular multimeters in the world and they come with almost the exact same nickel plated PVC sheath test leads and that doesn’t affect the continuity setting on them.
What you’re looking at is a weeks worth of soldering, running wires, and hitting my head on beams all to make this masterpiece. It’s 40 strips of RGBW LED strip lights or about 2,800 individual LEDs. It’s all powered via 3 12 volt 20 amp power supplies and connected to 3 32 channel (8 output) generic RGBW DMX decoders/ controllers which are controlled via an ETC Ion. Not pictured is a strip of lights connected to a custom RGB LED controller I built that uses an ESP32 Wroom dev board connected to the ETC Ion over WiFi using sACN as the data protocol.
I've got some Mackie CR3 monitors. I tore out the digital amplifier and use a couple of MJE13007s to drive them (I'm using them right now to watch this video!) but in the end I found electronics to be too stressful and have taken up chess instead - it's around 100 times easier.
I've been looking at the FNISRI specs. What work do you do that requires a Keysight (since it's around 10 times the price!)?
I don’t do any work that requires a keysight, I’ve just used keysight scopes and I know what they are capable of and I know they last forever. I’ve wanted a DSOX1204 for years but I can’t justify $1200. A Rigol would do fine for me it’s just that fact that I’m familiar with the menus on keysight scopes and there are things that come by default on a keysight you can’t get on a Rigol like more math functions, built in function generator, really good FFT and a few other functions. I wouldn’t recommend buying the FNIRSI anymore because I’ve blown the front end on mine twice and it’s missing a lot of functionality other scopes have, it really does feel like a toy compared to even a Rigol.
if anyone has problems with the artnet "The ArtNet protocol has patched devices, but there are no network interfaces in Device > Network that are configured to send this protocol" just go to setup>devices>network and find the artnet and enable it
Thoughts and prayers? 😂
Heyy i have that same eagle lock 🔐 cool 😎 im gonna post a video in a day or so 😊go chk it out😊
Do you have discord? I have been interested in electronics since age six
I do. Maybe I’ll link it discreetly on my info page, I don’t like to give that out very often
is there ANY way to do this with roblox????
Unfortunately I don’t think so. The only way this works is because Minecraft is running locally on your computer. Roblox games require you to be connected to the internet and they don’t run locally. Artnet is a network based protocol that only works on LAN networks and not through the internet. You could maybe pull off doing artnet through the internet with port forwarding but the latency would be terrible. There’s no way to really tell the IP address of the server the game is running on for Roblox. I have done a little bit of game design for Roblox but I’m not anywhere near good enough at coding to actually make a game work like the Minecraft one even if it was possible.
So this is 4 months too late but I have some news for you. There are people that are apparently into professional entertainment industry lighting who play roblox. If you download roblox studio (It’s completely free) start a new project, open the toolbox and search concert lighting , a few options will come up look for one that says festival concert stage. I played around with it a bit and it has a ton of moving head lights and other stuff. Supposedly it all works and is completely configurable using consoles that are in the game, I had a little trouble getting it all to work but I only tried playing around with it all for about an hour. If you’re skilled enough at coding in Lua this would probably fulfill whatever you are trying to do. Unfortunately I am not skilled enough at coding in Lua to make it all work perfectly. Like every other coding language I know, I am completely self taught so while I could theoretically do it, it would take me months or years. But if you’re dedicated enough and you are willing to put more time into learning to code than me then it’s a really fun thing to play around with. The possibilities are endless for what you can do in Roblox studio if you know how to code in Lua and you know how to use blender to make models. The only unfortunate thing is you need a decently powerful computer to make things in blender and to create really big things in Roblox studio. Although there’s a lot of stuff that already exists in Roblox studio for professional lighting that you can play around with, so you don’t really need to know how to code but if you want to make changes to things and make them work better then coding is a must.
If you have nothing to give to your sons or grandsons You can give them a fluke which your grandfather gave you. It is safe It is durable It is accurate It is worth every penny.
OH MY PKCELL!!!
What version minecraft are you running? I saw you earlier video on connecting through artnet. I can't connect at all. With ETC Nomad or Dot2onPC. Can you help with that by any chance? I've done everything right according to the toturials i've seen. everything looks right on screen, but nothing seems to happen
1.16.5 is the latest release for the theatrical mod. Try getting the local ip address or the computer you are running it on. If it’s on windows it’s under network settings and the network you’re connected to. It usually starts with 192.168. Try putting that address in ETC Nomad and the artnet interfaces in game. If that doesn’t work then windows defender/firewall might not be allowing the connection through.
@@theteenageengineer okay, so now i've tried all the IP-Adresses i could find on my computer, nothing changes. Now the firewall thing, that i'm not sure i've done correctly. I just went in to the ''allowed apps'' tab in the firewall, and minecraft and ETC is both ticked on private and public.
Its still not connecting to minecraft
@@Nyne.. are you on laptop or PC?
PC @@majiidsalim1703
my PKCell!
So, you put a high noise-generating SMPS right next to the scope's circuitry?
WD40 is NOT a lubricant! If you want to be an engineer, as opposed to a hack, use the correct fluids on electrical and electronic parts.
I know that WD40 isn’t a lubricant. I know the WD stands for water displacement. I’m a college student with like $10 to my name at any 1 given time. WD-40 was the best thing I had to fix the encoder at the time. I’m lucky I even had that! First 4 weeks I had a pocket knife, a few screwdrivers, a hammer, and some pliers for tools. I’m not a hack, I was doing the best with what I had at the time.
A view of the inside with your mods would have been good to see.
I have another vid on my channel showing that. Although I removed the batteries and put in an internal power supply so that I can either run it off of USB or Mains power. I also added a wire to the probe grounds that goes through 220k resistor to mains ground so that it reduces noise and has an actual mains reference
Thanks for posting this. I’ve been wondering for a while what a welder looks like on an o scope. That sounded tig. Some stick machines won’t run 6010 properly. I’m trying to understand why exactly.
Well actually this is an old buzz box machine I converted to DC by installing a bridge rectifier. That’s the reason for the bumpy voltage and current. This welder can run 6013 just fine but really struggles with 7018 that’s due to a low open circuit voltage. This machine has about 45 volts OCV and 7018 wants closer to 60 or 70 volts OCV.
but how do i open eos
I bought the 101 a few months ago and I really like it. I did spend an extra $15 to buy a case for it. I would also say flume quality is on a higher level than say the Klein I replaced.
With a Fluke 101, buy it for $50. Use it for 10 years or more and sell it for $50
Thanks
You problem with the batteries isthat you used 4 batteries it can fit at least 11 x- 18650 in parallel the scope draws 1.06 Amps the step up 5v boost draws 1.6Amps depends on which boost you use, I'm testing mines with 6x 3,700mah flat batteries in parallel
Great informative video thanks for posting
I am not an expert, regarding the consideration of the high price, without wanting to go into detail, on the quality of the components, I do not see the chaos of the Brymen in the Fluke, perhaps the result is similar, but the engineering has a cost and it is evident visually , even to a layman, the Casio and Patek Philippe both read the time correctly...it is quite obvious that it doesn't make much sense to buy the cheapest Fluke in the category
Fair enough. However you did mention Brymen, Dave Jones has proven that Brymen makes meters that are of similar quality and use similar components to Fluke meters. And Brymen gets away with selling meters equivalent to Fluke models at half or a third of the cost of the Fluke. To be honest I think that a lot of the cost of Fluke meters is just paying for the brand name because they have spent decades making their brand name associated with quality. However unless you have a ton disposable income there’s absolutely no point in buying a Fluke meter unless you’re using it professionally everyday. It’s like buying Snap On tools, unless you are using them everyday all day you’re not going to get much of a return on your investment.
@@theteenageengineer Very right, I could buy at most a Fluke 17b or 177, I don't deny that I would like it, but I wouldn't buy a 101, but for my needs and capabilities 100 euros would already be a lot, I'm undecided between a Brymen BM235 and a UNI -T UT61E which it costs half as much
@@TheFelix63I’d go with the BM235 from EEVBlog. That’s just because if it breaks Dave will actually take it back and either fix what’s wrong or if it’s not worth fixing he’ll send you a brand new one. I think one of the reasons fluke meters are so expensive is no matter how cheap the one you bought is, it’s guaranteed to be calibrated from the factory. And the more expensive ones like the 87V are easy to calibrate. For your average electronics hobbyist having a calibrated multimeter doesn’t matter but in industry having a calibrated meter does matter. I was talking with I guy I was working with a few weeks ago who was a calibration engineer at HP and Apple and he was saying that many years ago an out of calibration fluke meter that was personal property of an engineer caused a giant issue in the product they were developing. He said that his policy from then on was if you are using a meter on work projects in a lab then it gets calibrated even if it’s your personal meter.
This is the perfect meter to give to friends. Specifically because it doesn't have Current. They can't hurt it. redrok AD0TJ
I do have to agree on that. It is good to loan to someone who doesn’t know how to use a multimeter very well
Fluke low end meters are junk.
Hows the fan noise on this printer? Is it quieter compared to previous models?
Unfortunately it’s still pretty loud and I haven’t found a way to make it any quieter. I wouldn’t sleep in the same room as it but it’s not so loud that it’s disruptive for an office. It’s a lot better than the beeping that older printers had from the stepper motors being driven at audible frequencies.
The button for filament loading is such a convenient feature, especially when switching between different colors or materials.
Is there a filament sensor to notify you when youre running low on filament?
Hows the fan noise on this printer? Is it quieter compared to previous models?
Im curious to know more about the build volume. Can it handle larger prints?
If I remember correctly build volume is 220mm x 220mm x 250mm
The magnetic bed is such a nice touch. Itll make removing prints a breeze.
Im curious about the range of compatible filaments. Can it handle exotic materials like flexibles or composites?
I haven’t tried any of those yet, but there are a few things I’d like to print in flexible material so I’ll update on how it goes with those when I get around to trying it.
The Creality Ender-3 V2 SE appears to be a promising 3D printer. Thanks for sharing your unboxing and initial impressions!
Im excited to see the first print! What are you going to make with it?
Oh I’ve printed tons of stuff with it already, some of my custom designs are on Thingiverse www.thingiverse.com/kaibarber/designs
Its great to see a 3D printer with both speed and accuracy; it seems like a well-balanced machine
Can you share your experience with customer support from Creality in case users encounter any issues?
I haven’t needed to contact creality customer support yet. I’m going to assume that support direct from creality is not good, but forums and KZread videos are pretty helpful for the small problems I’ve encountered
Can you share some details about the print quality? Are there any test prints available?
Print quality really depends on the settings you used, how level your bed is, and the way you layed it out in the slicer software.
Ive heard the Ender series has a great community. Have you found good support online?
I haven’t really needed much support so I wouldn’t really know. But because it’s such a popular printer there’s probably plenty of forums that talk about it.