What kind of cable is this?? I have a huge 150 foot sample of it with those connections. I don’t know what it’s for or what to list it as. Please let me know if you can help me.
@rronmar23 сағат бұрын
@@mitchr1378 well that is just a generic cannon plug, used on multiple different systems. It is probably an interconnect cable for some other system, don’t see it used for the LMTV specifically. It should have a label/tag on it near one end with a number. Google that number, which may point you to the manufacturer or the system associated with it…
@matthewbailey35052 күн бұрын
I'll have to look in there on mine. I never had to use it before.
@vikingroverland75629 күн бұрын
Is the max tow out the same as the toe In ?
@vikingroverland75629 күн бұрын
Never mind mine were both tow out after reading video description I had to add my numbers together came out a .0875
@rronmar9 күн бұрын
@@vikingroverland7562 yea, you don’t want tow out, only slightly(within the limit) tow-in:)
@simonh893123 күн бұрын
I saw your comments to a video which led me here. I'm just about to make one of these, so have been gathering as many hints & tips as possible. The science is absolutely fascinating. I thought it would simply be a case of drilling a few holes, sealing the gap between inner & outer pots and away we go! I think I've got my head around the maths, so will be following your advice. Brilliant video, thank you so much 👌😎
@rronmar22 күн бұрын
@@simonh8931 Your welcome. I have found that the larger the stove/fire pit, the lower the percentage of the burn chamber bottom surface you need to admit primary air. Now of course the actual volume of air provided by a given size vent is dependent on a lot of other factors in the design/build, but percent of burn chamber surface area seemed like a good way to define/describe the relationship and gauge performance against. The pits I make from 50gal domestic water heater tanks(~15” dia, 12-15 tall) take well under 1% of the bottom area for primary air. They burn best when they occasionally pull air/flame downward as on that size it helps the secondary air mix with the wood gas over the larger top opening area. This little stove with a 6” burn pot wound up performing best with ~5% of the bottom surface area for primary vent. This was the smallest I had played with, and was a little surprised the percentage was this high. Good luck with yours.
@chrisbeach992Ай бұрын
Have an M1081AO that's having shifting issue locking in high gear and won't downshift unless we turn truck off. Changed engine speed sensor and proximity sensor on transmission, still no luck. Could this be the issue in your video?
@rronmarАй бұрын
It could, but if there was an issue with the TPS input the trans control should fall back to using its min and max range RPM inputs to up/downshift. This sounds more like you have a fault and it is locking it in gear… Are you storing any codes in the trans controller? Push up and down arrows at the same time. Display will flash D1 followed by two sets of numbers(eg: 25 12), or two dashes. Write these down and note if the mode light is lit. Press the mode button to step thru the 5 code memory locations D1-D5 and record the codes. - - indicates no stored codes in that memory location. ‘Mode on” in a particular memory location indicates a current/active fault. Once you have recorded all 5 code locations, press and hold mode. After 3 seconds of hold the controller should beep indicating it has cleared all active faults. After 10 seconds it should beep again indicating it has cleared all stored fault codes. Press both arrows again to exit diagnostic mode. Drive the truck and recreate the problem, then enter diagnostic mode again to read the codes again write everything down…
@AdventuredrivenАй бұрын
Thank you, love your videos
@michaelgrahamdesignsАй бұрын
What about this head light switch? I’ve searched all over Amazon and can’t find anything like it.
@michaelgrahamdesignsАй бұрын
What did you find the light switch?
@rronmarАй бұрын
Amazon… it was originally 5 switches and a voltmeter, 12v lighter socket and a dual usb power point. I also purchased a large hole sw adapter to add the top center switch and replaced the usb power point with my second voltmeter. All very common components for auto/marine installations, search automotive sw panel on amazon…
@michaelgrahamdesignsАй бұрын
That was super easy to find 🤦🏽♂️. Thank you.
@davehughes15322 ай бұрын
Can you show me how you made this ? Thanks
@rronmar2 ай бұрын
If you look at my other videos, you will find one labeled “manual CTIS wiring diagram” that shows the wiring for the current version of my system system seen in this video to manipulate the 24v between pins H,R,B and C on the CTIS controller cannon plug. The top left switch is a double pole switch(at the top of the diagram) and I added 12v power for that digital gauge to one of the poles, the other pole switches 24v power for the air control solenoids on the Pressure Control Unit. On the PCU under the passenger dash there is a pressure sensor used by the CTIS controller. I removed it and installed one of the ones that came with the digital gauge. You can put about any gauge there, my first experimenting with this I had a basic mechanical oil pressure gauge connected to that port, and it worked just fine. The second sensor for the digital gauge I connected to the extra port on the fan control solenoid, to allow me to see wet tank pressure output thru the wet tank protection valve.
@CrankyBuddy-ms1pc2 ай бұрын
Come on baby start. Ooooo love all that cranking and that smoke.
@rronmar2 ай бұрын
It was exactly at the 30 second crank limit…
@CrankyBuddy-ms1pc2 ай бұрын
@@rronmar Wish it didn’t have a crank limit.
@rronmar2 ай бұрын
@@CrankyBuddy-ms1pc well it doesn’t have an actual limit, beyond the 30 seconds specified in the manual. You could crank it till it melts, or the thermal switch opens, if your starter has one of those, but if it is not firing by 30 seconds you really should be doing something else to get it to pop(ether, block heat ect)…
@Adventuredriven4 ай бұрын
Just completed this delete on Brutus, thanks for the video, this mod removes a ton of potential problems. Thanks again
@moybone66414 ай бұрын
This was very helpful, thanks Ron!
@herbhippler2934 ай бұрын
Do you have a link for that latch ?
@rronmar4 ай бұрын
Any 95-04 Toyota Tacoma or 4runner. I believe they also used the same handle on 4runners as early as 90(2nd and third generation 4runner). The fronts have lock assemblies, the rears do not. The fronts require a little more door mod to fit, the rear handles require only a slight alteration to the existing hole. Both require a backer plate to hold them in place/sandwich the door skin… it only tool me about 10-15 minutes with a Dremel tool and a fiber cutoff wheel to alter the hole. I went with rear handles as I am going with electric lock assemblies anyway… look to “Speedway motors” for that Trimark universal slimline latch assembly…
@robbygreene24 ай бұрын
Had to replace my fuel/water separator housing because my flapper was poopoo.
@rronmar4 ай бұрын
Which is why I did the next video showing how to test the primer, and access and check that flapper:) i can only recall hearing one other issue with these primers that WASNT that flapper. I think it was one of the internal check valves. The usual issue is the flapper is simply fouled/dirty, but it could also be bad(nothing lasts forever)… i think that is the first case like that I have heard of also…
@dflood3164 ай бұрын
Great summary, thanks for all you do for the community.
@Adventuredriven4 ай бұрын
Great video as always. I am in the middle of doing this to Brutus, but was curious as to where that cut line I see on your take off parts went ? Looks like mine is heading up front of the truck, maybe to glad hands ? I am going to delete glad hands per your video also, I NEVER use them.
@rronmar4 ай бұрын
Well if you have seen the glad-hand delete video, i mention it briefly there. That cut line is the park air input. When park air is applied, that valve closes to prevent some joker in the back from raisian the cab when driving:) Park air comes from the park valve down thru a port in the floor behind the grill, to a 2way check behind the drivers step. Park input also comes to the park 2way from the front red glad-hand. The output of that 2way(top one) is Td. One leg goes to the park input of the inversion valve to control park brakes. one leg goes to that AOP supply valve(cut line)and the park/emer light control air switch(66PSI) is also Td off there. Easy to get to with the grill removed…
@Adventuredriven4 ай бұрын
@@rronmar Right on and thank you, so if I do this air tank clean up like you did and cut that line like you did I will have a air leak until I do glad hand delete right?
@rronmar4 ай бұрын
Well you could disconnect the rear end where it connects to that remote valve(where I cut it) and cap it there, Or you can get in behind the grill, find where that line is connected, disconnect it and cap that port…
@Adventuredriven4 ай бұрын
Perfect, that's what I was thinking also. @@rronmar
@BrokeOverLand4 ай бұрын
Love it! Thank you for another awesome tutorial.
@Subby8084 ай бұрын
Thank you very much for this. I'm currently working on my LMTV, and find your videos very helpful.
@CallMeColtLLC4 ай бұрын
People over think things. Thanks!
@BrokeOverLand4 ай бұрын
Love it, another awesome tutorial. Up next how to remove the filter and clean that bypass flapper so your primer actually works. 😊
@richmumm72884 ай бұрын
Yup, that easy! Love it.
@johncoulter15074 ай бұрын
I was wondering how well it would work, but haven't tried it yet. Thanks!
@Adventuredriven4 ай бұрын
Awesome, I love it
@JediStockTrader5 ай бұрын
New to this, why dont you just put a ring around the bottom intake holes to limit air flow? Would that not be the same?
@rronmar5 ай бұрын
Well the holes around the base provide both the primary(into the coals/base of the fire) AND secondary air(hot air over the top to ignite the wood-gas released by the primary fire/heat). The issue with most of these stoves is they deliver way too much primary air. You want a lot more secondary air than you do primary air. In fact the only restriction you really want on the secondary air flowing up between the inner and outer walls, is you want to slow it down enough for it to get hot enough to easily ignite the wood gas at the top and create a good clean secondary combustion. On the fire pits I build, I throttle this secondary air at the top, but secondary air could be just as easily throttled at the bottom by partially covering those bottom holes as you suggest. but you still need the inner dish or something to block off most of the inner holes in the bottom of the burn chamber to change the relationship between primary and secondary airflow on this design stove. The dish works well as it also catches the embers and ash that falls thru the bottom holes…
@SagebrushHunts5 ай бұрын
How do you control the cab lock?
@rronmar5 ай бұрын
Same as it has always been controlled. The cab latch has always been Td off of the hydraulic line running to the base of the lift cylinder. As you start to lift the cab, pressure builds on that line which pushes the latch piston to compress a spring and release the latch. When the cab comes back down, it rotates the latch back into the locked position, releases the captured spring to lock the latch until pressure is applied next time you lift the cab. I have actually contemplated putting in a manual pull handle to release the latch and disconnect it from the hydraulics, as they have been known to spring leaks, which keeps you from being able to build enough pressure to lift the cab…
@chrisbuildthis69996 ай бұрын
Hi rronmar. i need some help, Im replacing rear lights, the ones i purchased are 3 wire and ground. stop, turn,park.when i hook up the turn its flashes dim, the turn signal are sequential ,the front lights are bright i have them as halo. how do i correct this. i know that OE wire is Turn/Brake .
@rronmar6 ай бұрын
You can separate brake and turn. There is a brake only signal sent to the 7 pin trailer connector, pin6, wire 22C. You will have to bypass a relay to stop the brake signal from being sent to/mixed with the turn signals. The brakes and turn signals are mixed together at relay K10. You can pull it and jumper pin 30 to pin 87A then only turn signals and hazards will reach the original combined taillight circuit.
@chrisbuildthis69996 ай бұрын
@rronmar Thanks you. Your knowledge of these truck is invaluable.
@chrisbuildthis69996 ай бұрын
The biggest problem that I'm having is the light is very dim if I hook it up directly to the battery is super bright when it's connected to the wire for the turn signal circuit is extremely dim compared to when it's at the battery is that because it's an issue with too much resistance or is it not enough voltage is going to the rear
@rronmar6 ай бұрын
@@chrisbuildthis6999 both… Resistance resists current flow, which results in a voltage drop when current is flowing. Like a kink in a garden hose, you can still have full pressure to the end of the hose until you open the nozzle, then the pressure falls as the kink cannot feed enough flow to maintain pressure at the end of the hose. Thats why voltage in a circuit is only considered good when teated under its rated load… where are you connecting ground on the new lights? The harness runs from the power panel in the passenger dash down the passenger frame to the trailer connector. Light leads are broken out from there to the light assemblies. The harness continues past the trailer connections and ends at a 10mm bolt on the drivers side frame rail near the wheel/over the axle. There is a terminal lug bolted thru the frame that provides the ground signal back thru the harness and out to the respective lights. You can test to see if it is a main harness or ground issue with a long test wire. Connect one end to battery ground and run it to the light, provide light power thru the normal harness and see if it works. You can reverse the test by connecting power from battery + to the light + input with the test wire, while using the normal ground path at the light. This will give you an idea if one leg or the other is the issue…
@albert2araujo6 ай бұрын
Have you come across a error code 0x0000007f before? If so how did you get around it?
@rronmar6 ай бұрын
No I have not…
@RonMTube7 ай бұрын
Great analysis. I learned something new. Thanks!
@UtibeEdem-bk4ri7 ай бұрын
I love this job o
@John33gfed7 ай бұрын
My friend, you have no idea how helpful your video was to me! Thank you thank you thank you! I'm subscribed 🤙🏼
@flaviusbarker93887 ай бұрын
Great information! Thank you for these videos.
@user-wv3sb6rf7d7 ай бұрын
Awesome setup would you mind sharing some more info on setup my OEM setup is shot and was needing to find a option I will home brew myself if I have to but looks like you got it figured out I’m not paying the ridiculous MME prices
@rronmar7 ай бұрын
I will have some other video up showing what I did with the height control valve install and the shrouds. I am still finalizing the plumbing/routing. I will put some part numbers of the bags and shocks in the next video. You have CAD?
@BERZERKERSV47 ай бұрын
The LMTV Mad Scientist has done it again….
@BERZERKERSV47 ай бұрын
Should they come to market, we pray they are reasonably priced, unlike that crap from MME which is a poor fit and offers a slightly better ride than OEM.. for $1k…. Ouch… But more importantly…why?… our LMTVs will never ride like a Cadillac….
@rronmar7 ай бұрын
Well it is a little over $200 in parts and steel, but i will not be producing anything like this except for myself…
@gregsnyder44967 ай бұрын
Show me more, interesting.
@coachgeo7 ай бұрын
shweeet. limit straps so accident does not throw cab up forward and toss ya out the windshield or rip off? (though shocks should limit that too) .. or is that what you refer to as secondary stop? Track bar/Panhard bar to limit side to side and or angle shocks for that?
@rronmar7 ай бұрын
The OEM units don’t have any of those things… The OEM internal shock assembly looks to have the same size rod and welded ring sizes. IMO in that other config the straps are probably as much for keeping the arch in line if inflated without the cab down on it as anything else… I wouldn’t trust synthetic straps out in the weather anyway, especially expecting it to absorb a shock load while wrapped thru thin slotted flat metal brackets(knife-edge loading is bad). The combined shock yield looks greater than the latch single point/rod or the bracket attachment into the cab sheetmetal anyway... Mine will have a steel secondary. The outer steel shroud that covers the air-spring, will have hard top and bottom stops incorporated that engage with the base mount structure. Since they will overlap the base brackets they will also inhibit any possible side-side motion…
@coachgeo7 ай бұрын
Not use to seeing this from rear view. Apologize, when first saw this for some reason was thinking, these were installed further back than OEM. See now they are in essentially same place. Just no cans (yet)
@rronmar7 ай бұрын
@@coachgeo the air-springs are right where the OEM spring/shocks were located. The shocks are inboard directly under the arch. No bed on mine yet(just picked up the steel for the floor ribs last week), so its easy to shoot from the back.
@nathanmeyer38557 ай бұрын
Nice setup!
@jacksonbutler86677 ай бұрын
On the fuel system do you know what hose on the tank is the return line?
@rronmar7 ай бұрын
I,believe it is the forward port nearest the level sensor.
@dflood3168 ай бұрын
Valuable information, thanks!
@dflood3168 ай бұрын
Awesome, great work!
@mehrdadmorabbi67438 ай бұрын
Looks awesome!
@tgreening8 ай бұрын
My brain just can’t brain all the electrical you did to make all that work. The panel looks great.
@NEILSWORLD8 ай бұрын
Very helpful video! Thank you.
@user-wx4ig8kw4f8 ай бұрын
What a great, very informative video. Thanks!! Just got a M1078 A0 (which i believe is what you have) and trying to learn as much as possible about it. I'm more a visual learner so this is great! Thanks again!
@dflood3168 ай бұрын
Thanks so much for putting this together. Very helpful.
@rronmar8 ай бұрын
The marker/signal lights were off of amazon. www.amazon.com/Aluminum-AT-HAIHAN-Compliant-Waterproof-Lighting/dp/B08KVZPRHY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=26PANO1CGOZTB&keywords=at-haihan&qid=1701060857&sprefix=%2Caps%2C1739&sr=8-4&th=1 This seller sells a bunch of different styles so I got small, med and large to do front and rear. Changed my plan a little so just ordered some and have a link. The head and driving lights I got more than a year back and don’t have any info on them. There are a ton of 7” jeep halo ring lights out there. These are a hare thicker than regular bulbs so I did have to put in slightly longer screws for the outer ring. The driving/fog lights are just under 5” for a 2010ish Toyota Tacoma or Sequoia, and I fabbed brackets that bolt right in place of the original front signals. Walking around the truck last night in the dark and the Day running lights are way too much when the headlights are on. Luckilly the are powered by the original park light ckt that is usually independent. On the switch I put in I tied them together with the running lights. I have a multi-sw light panel planned for the lower right corner of the dash so will separate out the DRLs so I can turn them off when I turn on the headlights.
@bg85898 ай бұрын
Great setup. Was wanting to do the same for the blinkers on the doors. Where did you tap into? Nice job!
@rronmar8 ай бұрын
You need to tap into the left and right turn signal wires down at the lights, then run a single wire from each light in along the bumper and up along with the existing wiring and in thru the passthru on the front sides of the engine tunnel(remove grill, easy access). Inside the cab, they run outward to the front and on to the door side marker lights. You already have ground and marker power, so you only need the signal wire from each TS light. I linked to the hi/lo marker/signal lights I used in another comment. These are the 4.4” ones in the vid, but I need to switch to the 5.5” lights as the small ones don’t quite cover the hole in the door. I am going to do the same at the rear, with orange signal lights at the ends of the bumper facing rear and out to the sides.
@SeanFillner8 ай бұрын
That setup is nuts. I am jealous! Got a parts list with links??
@richmumm72888 ай бұрын
Looks good. What headlight/turns did you use?
@livingworkingoutsidebox8 ай бұрын
Many don't realize how important it is to get all the lights working ✨️ 💪👍
Пікірлер
What kind of cable is this?? I have a huge 150 foot sample of it with those connections. I don’t know what it’s for or what to list it as. Please let me know if you can help me.
@@mitchr1378 well that is just a generic cannon plug, used on multiple different systems. It is probably an interconnect cable for some other system, don’t see it used for the LMTV specifically. It should have a label/tag on it near one end with a number. Google that number, which may point you to the manufacturer or the system associated with it…
I'll have to look in there on mine. I never had to use it before.
Is the max tow out the same as the toe In ?
Never mind mine were both tow out after reading video description I had to add my numbers together came out a .0875
@@vikingroverland7562 yea, you don’t want tow out, only slightly(within the limit) tow-in:)
I saw your comments to a video which led me here. I'm just about to make one of these, so have been gathering as many hints & tips as possible. The science is absolutely fascinating. I thought it would simply be a case of drilling a few holes, sealing the gap between inner & outer pots and away we go! I think I've got my head around the maths, so will be following your advice. Brilliant video, thank you so much 👌😎
@@simonh8931 Your welcome. I have found that the larger the stove/fire pit, the lower the percentage of the burn chamber bottom surface you need to admit primary air. Now of course the actual volume of air provided by a given size vent is dependent on a lot of other factors in the design/build, but percent of burn chamber surface area seemed like a good way to define/describe the relationship and gauge performance against. The pits I make from 50gal domestic water heater tanks(~15” dia, 12-15 tall) take well under 1% of the bottom area for primary air. They burn best when they occasionally pull air/flame downward as on that size it helps the secondary air mix with the wood gas over the larger top opening area. This little stove with a 6” burn pot wound up performing best with ~5% of the bottom surface area for primary vent. This was the smallest I had played with, and was a little surprised the percentage was this high. Good luck with yours.
Have an M1081AO that's having shifting issue locking in high gear and won't downshift unless we turn truck off. Changed engine speed sensor and proximity sensor on transmission, still no luck. Could this be the issue in your video?
It could, but if there was an issue with the TPS input the trans control should fall back to using its min and max range RPM inputs to up/downshift. This sounds more like you have a fault and it is locking it in gear… Are you storing any codes in the trans controller? Push up and down arrows at the same time. Display will flash D1 followed by two sets of numbers(eg: 25 12), or two dashes. Write these down and note if the mode light is lit. Press the mode button to step thru the 5 code memory locations D1-D5 and record the codes. - - indicates no stored codes in that memory location. ‘Mode on” in a particular memory location indicates a current/active fault. Once you have recorded all 5 code locations, press and hold mode. After 3 seconds of hold the controller should beep indicating it has cleared all active faults. After 10 seconds it should beep again indicating it has cleared all stored fault codes. Press both arrows again to exit diagnostic mode. Drive the truck and recreate the problem, then enter diagnostic mode again to read the codes again write everything down…
Thank you, love your videos
What about this head light switch? I’ve searched all over Amazon and can’t find anything like it.
What did you find the light switch?
Amazon… it was originally 5 switches and a voltmeter, 12v lighter socket and a dual usb power point. I also purchased a large hole sw adapter to add the top center switch and replaced the usb power point with my second voltmeter. All very common components for auto/marine installations, search automotive sw panel on amazon…
That was super easy to find 🤦🏽♂️. Thank you.
Can you show me how you made this ? Thanks
If you look at my other videos, you will find one labeled “manual CTIS wiring diagram” that shows the wiring for the current version of my system system seen in this video to manipulate the 24v between pins H,R,B and C on the CTIS controller cannon plug. The top left switch is a double pole switch(at the top of the diagram) and I added 12v power for that digital gauge to one of the poles, the other pole switches 24v power for the air control solenoids on the Pressure Control Unit. On the PCU under the passenger dash there is a pressure sensor used by the CTIS controller. I removed it and installed one of the ones that came with the digital gauge. You can put about any gauge there, my first experimenting with this I had a basic mechanical oil pressure gauge connected to that port, and it worked just fine. The second sensor for the digital gauge I connected to the extra port on the fan control solenoid, to allow me to see wet tank pressure output thru the wet tank protection valve.
Come on baby start. Ooooo love all that cranking and that smoke.
It was exactly at the 30 second crank limit…
@@rronmar Wish it didn’t have a crank limit.
@@CrankyBuddy-ms1pc well it doesn’t have an actual limit, beyond the 30 seconds specified in the manual. You could crank it till it melts, or the thermal switch opens, if your starter has one of those, but if it is not firing by 30 seconds you really should be doing something else to get it to pop(ether, block heat ect)…
Just completed this delete on Brutus, thanks for the video, this mod removes a ton of potential problems. Thanks again
This was very helpful, thanks Ron!
Do you have a link for that latch ?
Any 95-04 Toyota Tacoma or 4runner. I believe they also used the same handle on 4runners as early as 90(2nd and third generation 4runner). The fronts have lock assemblies, the rears do not. The fronts require a little more door mod to fit, the rear handles require only a slight alteration to the existing hole. Both require a backer plate to hold them in place/sandwich the door skin… it only tool me about 10-15 minutes with a Dremel tool and a fiber cutoff wheel to alter the hole. I went with rear handles as I am going with electric lock assemblies anyway… look to “Speedway motors” for that Trimark universal slimline latch assembly…
Had to replace my fuel/water separator housing because my flapper was poopoo.
Which is why I did the next video showing how to test the primer, and access and check that flapper:) i can only recall hearing one other issue with these primers that WASNT that flapper. I think it was one of the internal check valves. The usual issue is the flapper is simply fouled/dirty, but it could also be bad(nothing lasts forever)… i think that is the first case like that I have heard of also…
Great summary, thanks for all you do for the community.
Great video as always. I am in the middle of doing this to Brutus, but was curious as to where that cut line I see on your take off parts went ? Looks like mine is heading up front of the truck, maybe to glad hands ? I am going to delete glad hands per your video also, I NEVER use them.
Well if you have seen the glad-hand delete video, i mention it briefly there. That cut line is the park air input. When park air is applied, that valve closes to prevent some joker in the back from raisian the cab when driving:) Park air comes from the park valve down thru a port in the floor behind the grill, to a 2way check behind the drivers step. Park input also comes to the park 2way from the front red glad-hand. The output of that 2way(top one) is Td. One leg goes to the park input of the inversion valve to control park brakes. one leg goes to that AOP supply valve(cut line)and the park/emer light control air switch(66PSI) is also Td off there. Easy to get to with the grill removed…
@@rronmar Right on and thank you, so if I do this air tank clean up like you did and cut that line like you did I will have a air leak until I do glad hand delete right?
Well you could disconnect the rear end where it connects to that remote valve(where I cut it) and cap it there, Or you can get in behind the grill, find where that line is connected, disconnect it and cap that port…
Perfect, that's what I was thinking also. @@rronmar
Love it! Thank you for another awesome tutorial.
Thank you very much for this. I'm currently working on my LMTV, and find your videos very helpful.
People over think things. Thanks!
Love it, another awesome tutorial. Up next how to remove the filter and clean that bypass flapper so your primer actually works. 😊
Yup, that easy! Love it.
I was wondering how well it would work, but haven't tried it yet. Thanks!
Awesome, I love it
New to this, why dont you just put a ring around the bottom intake holes to limit air flow? Would that not be the same?
Well the holes around the base provide both the primary(into the coals/base of the fire) AND secondary air(hot air over the top to ignite the wood-gas released by the primary fire/heat). The issue with most of these stoves is they deliver way too much primary air. You want a lot more secondary air than you do primary air. In fact the only restriction you really want on the secondary air flowing up between the inner and outer walls, is you want to slow it down enough for it to get hot enough to easily ignite the wood gas at the top and create a good clean secondary combustion. On the fire pits I build, I throttle this secondary air at the top, but secondary air could be just as easily throttled at the bottom by partially covering those bottom holes as you suggest. but you still need the inner dish or something to block off most of the inner holes in the bottom of the burn chamber to change the relationship between primary and secondary airflow on this design stove. The dish works well as it also catches the embers and ash that falls thru the bottom holes…
How do you control the cab lock?
Same as it has always been controlled. The cab latch has always been Td off of the hydraulic line running to the base of the lift cylinder. As you start to lift the cab, pressure builds on that line which pushes the latch piston to compress a spring and release the latch. When the cab comes back down, it rotates the latch back into the locked position, releases the captured spring to lock the latch until pressure is applied next time you lift the cab. I have actually contemplated putting in a manual pull handle to release the latch and disconnect it from the hydraulics, as they have been known to spring leaks, which keeps you from being able to build enough pressure to lift the cab…
Hi rronmar. i need some help, Im replacing rear lights, the ones i purchased are 3 wire and ground. stop, turn,park.when i hook up the turn its flashes dim, the turn signal are sequential ,the front lights are bright i have them as halo. how do i correct this. i know that OE wire is Turn/Brake .
You can separate brake and turn. There is a brake only signal sent to the 7 pin trailer connector, pin6, wire 22C. You will have to bypass a relay to stop the brake signal from being sent to/mixed with the turn signals. The brakes and turn signals are mixed together at relay K10. You can pull it and jumper pin 30 to pin 87A then only turn signals and hazards will reach the original combined taillight circuit.
@rronmar Thanks you. Your knowledge of these truck is invaluable.
The biggest problem that I'm having is the light is very dim if I hook it up directly to the battery is super bright when it's connected to the wire for the turn signal circuit is extremely dim compared to when it's at the battery is that because it's an issue with too much resistance or is it not enough voltage is going to the rear
@@chrisbuildthis6999 both… Resistance resists current flow, which results in a voltage drop when current is flowing. Like a kink in a garden hose, you can still have full pressure to the end of the hose until you open the nozzle, then the pressure falls as the kink cannot feed enough flow to maintain pressure at the end of the hose. Thats why voltage in a circuit is only considered good when teated under its rated load… where are you connecting ground on the new lights? The harness runs from the power panel in the passenger dash down the passenger frame to the trailer connector. Light leads are broken out from there to the light assemblies. The harness continues past the trailer connections and ends at a 10mm bolt on the drivers side frame rail near the wheel/over the axle. There is a terminal lug bolted thru the frame that provides the ground signal back thru the harness and out to the respective lights. You can test to see if it is a main harness or ground issue with a long test wire. Connect one end to battery ground and run it to the light, provide light power thru the normal harness and see if it works. You can reverse the test by connecting power from battery + to the light + input with the test wire, while using the normal ground path at the light. This will give you an idea if one leg or the other is the issue…
Have you come across a error code 0x0000007f before? If so how did you get around it?
No I have not…
Great analysis. I learned something new. Thanks!
I love this job o
My friend, you have no idea how helpful your video was to me! Thank you thank you thank you! I'm subscribed 🤙🏼
Great information! Thank you for these videos.
Awesome setup would you mind sharing some more info on setup my OEM setup is shot and was needing to find a option I will home brew myself if I have to but looks like you got it figured out I’m not paying the ridiculous MME prices
I will have some other video up showing what I did with the height control valve install and the shrouds. I am still finalizing the plumbing/routing. I will put some part numbers of the bags and shocks in the next video. You have CAD?
The LMTV Mad Scientist has done it again….
Should they come to market, we pray they are reasonably priced, unlike that crap from MME which is a poor fit and offers a slightly better ride than OEM.. for $1k…. Ouch… But more importantly…why?… our LMTVs will never ride like a Cadillac….
Well it is a little over $200 in parts and steel, but i will not be producing anything like this except for myself…
Show me more, interesting.
shweeet. limit straps so accident does not throw cab up forward and toss ya out the windshield or rip off? (though shocks should limit that too) .. or is that what you refer to as secondary stop? Track bar/Panhard bar to limit side to side and or angle shocks for that?
The OEM units don’t have any of those things… The OEM internal shock assembly looks to have the same size rod and welded ring sizes. IMO in that other config the straps are probably as much for keeping the arch in line if inflated without the cab down on it as anything else… I wouldn’t trust synthetic straps out in the weather anyway, especially expecting it to absorb a shock load while wrapped thru thin slotted flat metal brackets(knife-edge loading is bad). The combined shock yield looks greater than the latch single point/rod or the bracket attachment into the cab sheetmetal anyway... Mine will have a steel secondary. The outer steel shroud that covers the air-spring, will have hard top and bottom stops incorporated that engage with the base mount structure. Since they will overlap the base brackets they will also inhibit any possible side-side motion…
Not use to seeing this from rear view. Apologize, when first saw this for some reason was thinking, these were installed further back than OEM. See now they are in essentially same place. Just no cans (yet)
@@coachgeo the air-springs are right where the OEM spring/shocks were located. The shocks are inboard directly under the arch. No bed on mine yet(just picked up the steel for the floor ribs last week), so its easy to shoot from the back.
Nice setup!
On the fuel system do you know what hose on the tank is the return line?
I,believe it is the forward port nearest the level sensor.
Valuable information, thanks!
Awesome, great work!
Looks awesome!
My brain just can’t brain all the electrical you did to make all that work. The panel looks great.
Very helpful video! Thank you.
What a great, very informative video. Thanks!! Just got a M1078 A0 (which i believe is what you have) and trying to learn as much as possible about it. I'm more a visual learner so this is great! Thanks again!
Thanks so much for putting this together. Very helpful.
The marker/signal lights were off of amazon. www.amazon.com/Aluminum-AT-HAIHAN-Compliant-Waterproof-Lighting/dp/B08KVZPRHY/ref=sr_1_4?crid=26PANO1CGOZTB&keywords=at-haihan&qid=1701060857&sprefix=%2Caps%2C1739&sr=8-4&th=1 This seller sells a bunch of different styles so I got small, med and large to do front and rear. Changed my plan a little so just ordered some and have a link. The head and driving lights I got more than a year back and don’t have any info on them. There are a ton of 7” jeep halo ring lights out there. These are a hare thicker than regular bulbs so I did have to put in slightly longer screws for the outer ring. The driving/fog lights are just under 5” for a 2010ish Toyota Tacoma or Sequoia, and I fabbed brackets that bolt right in place of the original front signals. Walking around the truck last night in the dark and the Day running lights are way too much when the headlights are on. Luckilly the are powered by the original park light ckt that is usually independent. On the switch I put in I tied them together with the running lights. I have a multi-sw light panel planned for the lower right corner of the dash so will separate out the DRLs so I can turn them off when I turn on the headlights.
Great setup. Was wanting to do the same for the blinkers on the doors. Where did you tap into? Nice job!
You need to tap into the left and right turn signal wires down at the lights, then run a single wire from each light in along the bumper and up along with the existing wiring and in thru the passthru on the front sides of the engine tunnel(remove grill, easy access). Inside the cab, they run outward to the front and on to the door side marker lights. You already have ground and marker power, so you only need the signal wire from each TS light. I linked to the hi/lo marker/signal lights I used in another comment. These are the 4.4” ones in the vid, but I need to switch to the 5.5” lights as the small ones don’t quite cover the hole in the door. I am going to do the same at the rear, with orange signal lights at the ends of the bumper facing rear and out to the sides.
That setup is nuts. I am jealous! Got a parts list with links??
Looks good. What headlight/turns did you use?
Many don't realize how important it is to get all the lights working ✨️ 💪👍