Located in Harnett County, NC, I've been hobby beekeeping since 2010. I'm active in my local beekeeper's association and have helped local, new beekeepers learn about their new hobby. I've managed between 2 and 50 colonies over the years, more in years as time allows, fewer when it hasn't, and have been eyeing considerable increases to keep up with demand for locally harvested honey. I hope to share what works well for me in hopes to help others in Harnett and surrounding counties. And if it's helpful to others outside that area, wonderful! I'll probably post some of my non-bee related DIY projects too along the way. Happy Beekeeping!
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Harnett County is lovely. Beautiful home.
@aburns1999 It's definitely a beautiful time of year, with Spring in full bloom. Thank you. And thanks so much for taking time to watch and comment. Best wishes to you and yours. 😊
Really looks nice. Bet the party was fun too.
Everything is so beautiful! Really like the peaceful vibe in this video ❤
Chào bạn yêu ❤
Hello. Thanks for watching!
Did you bond/ground the water and pool?
Yes. I used copper wire attached to the rebar throughout the concrete all around the perimeter of the pool to ground. I've been in friends pools that weren't grounded and I didn't want a similar buzzing/shocking experience in our pool.
Can you give the dimensions of the pool? I love it and I want one exactly like it!
The inside dimension is 10'x20'. The tanning ledge is 2'8". The top step juts out 2'8" and is 6'8" wide. There are only five courses of cinder block and each step is about 8" high, corresponding to each row of cinder block. Thanks for watching!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard Thank you! One more question - Can you recommend a book that might help me with my DIY ciderblock pool build?
Unfortunately, no. I didn't use any books. I scavenged information from various sources online.
@@BradfieldsBeeYard Ok I’m sufficiently inspired! Thank You so much for answering questions and sharing information - you’re very kind 🤗
Great video and work.. the part where you were replacing rotted wood with a chainsaw.. did you have to do that from the inside also..? Gives me hope as we have a very old barn, at this point still intact but with questionable wood everywhere..
I haven't yet worked on the interior. I hope to up fit the barn to be used as a honey house and that'll require some work. There are a few rotten spots that were all the way through the log but the majority of the rot was on the exterior. I haven't decided yet how to refinish the interior. I do hope to vlog the work once and when I start. Definitely give it a go at restoring your barn. I think back to the manual labor that went into the construction decades, if not a hundred or more, years ago and I think how valuable it is to have something so unique and rare. It doesn't have to be perfect, it just has to get to the next generation. Best of luck on your barn project!
Thx for the response.. looking fwd to seeing if you can post a vlog of the interior work. Yeah I’ve got to try something for ours.. it’s really cool as the barn was built around a log cabin type structure that has been here who knows how long. I had given up hope, but your video is inspiring. Thx
What did this cost to build? I was scanning comments looking for the answer, and now suppose I might have missed that in the video lol.
We didn't keep track of all our expenses but it was in the ballpark of $6,000.
What did you tile pool with
@@BurningTorchMinistryTucson Islamorada Seafoam Green 2x2 Pool Tile
I'm doing it right now I'm the block phase
Nice! Best of luck to you on your build!
👍👍👍👍🤝👈❤❤
Thanks for watching 👍
New bees?
Yes. A package of bees is an artificial swarm. This install was a favor for another beekeeper. The bees arrived while he was out of town so I picked them up and installed them for him.
What happens to the original Hive? I was told that they will still make new queen cells and try to swarm, is this true?
Will they continue to make swarm cells? Probably. BUT you can continue to split as in the video, for a chance at more colonies. OR you can cut the hive back further, taking more bees and more resource frames away to mitigate the swarming impulse by reducing the congestion. None of these methods are 100% definitive. You're really working with probabilities when working with honeybees. The bees will ultimately do what the bees want to do but we find ways to mitigate, ways that align with the beekeepers intent, time availability and woodenware availability. There are various ways to perform splits and it's ultimately up to the beekeeper to decide what works best for their goals. In my case, I'm working with about 40 colonies and am trying to keep the mother colonies as strong as possible in hopes of getting a good honey crop. Will this method work if I were trying to manage 100+ colonies? Probably not. It would probably be too much work. Does it work for the average backyard beekeeper? I think so. Hope this helps and thanks for watching! Happy Beekeeping 🐝
@@BradfieldsBeeYard Thanks for the reply!
This is the best and most simple split video I have seen using cells if you find them very good informational video for new beekeepers good job!
Thanks! I've been trying different video formats and am glad you took time to offer feedback. Happy Beekeeping!
I agree, a wonderful and clear presentation. Thank You!
@@lgalardi Thank you! And thanks for watching. Happy Beekeeping 🐝
Surprised you felt comfortable shaking the frame with queen cells. Might want to use a bee brush next time.
That's a valid point. I consider it to be a matter of expediency: risk vs time spent. I'm learning how to scale up from maintaining 5-10 colonies to hopefully 80-100 colonies. I'm currently at about 40 this Spring and am finding some areas that still need improvement and others that are working really well. My fall back is watching the big guys, observing, and listening to their content. I think about what Bob Binnie said in one of his videos every time I shake a frame: "vigorously, not violently". Thanks so much for taking time to watch!
I see honey bees.😁Blessed Days...
I'm almost to the point of exasperation every time I see these queen cells now. Not yet ... but almost 😆
@@BradfieldsBeeYard You will get past this stage and be onto the smoother side soon.😁
When you're just looking around KZread and see the name of the county where you were born and currently work. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Well done, did you spray old motor oil on the logs?
@rocksunderwater, I sprayed copper green wood preservative. Thanks for watching!
Looks realy good.
Awesome
Few questions can you drop a list of what you need pump wise please? Also do you use tap water or hot water? Thankyou I like this setup
@PeabodysRawHoney, for dispensing, I have a standard RV 12V DC, Self Priming Diaphragm Pump 5.0 GPM 55 PSI. It's contained in a plastic tool box to keep it out of the weather and for easily carrying, with holes cut in each side to allow the hoses to connect. I wired an on/off switch in the side of the tool box and have 18 gauge wires to my truck battery, connecting with clamps to the battery terminals. It's only in my truck and connected when in use, otherwise it's stored away. I used a 10' 3/4" hose for the inlet side and a 100' 3/4" hose for the outlet side of the pump. I have brass couplers for quick connect/disconnect of each hose from the pump. The nozzle is a typical zinc pistol grip garden hose attachment. For mixing, I have a 120V sump pump with 50' hose. I'm not sure the gpm as it was purchased years ago and I only recently repurposed it for mixing sugar water but it moves some water. I estimate it's somewhere in the range of 50+ gpm. This setup will work with any size barrel or container, so long as there's room for the sump pump to be inserted. I happen to live in close proximity to Mt Olive, famous for pickles, and have several 60 gallon, food grade, repurposed pickle barrels. :) I use unheated water direct from my garden hose. It's not commercial grade but it's allowed me to feed bees fast (about 30-45 seconds in each hive, filling 1.5 gallon feeders) and scale up my hobby. And it doesn't break the bank. Hope this helps. Let me know if you've any other questions or need clarification on anything above. Thanks for watching!
Great pool. Great music. Who does the tunes?
In It To Win It ... FounderMusic ???
Concrete block is both the highest quality and cheapest construction option for pools.
You're bot-tastic. Thanks for stopping by!
"Promosm" 😱
kzread.info/dash/bejne/g3h9mcVtm7C1lMY.htmlsi=lMLfBMSXvsDlR7aC
What a cute helper you have
How did you figure out the plumbing?
@shellydooney3720 Before answering, I feel it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living and this was my diy project. With that said, I felt the plumbing was fairly simple to design. All pipes are below water level when the pool is filled so there's little consideration needed for the slope of the pipes. I used sweeping turns for better water flow. My pool is not much larger than an above ground pool. Thus, I observed what size pumps and plumbing are typically used for above ground and used similar sizes. There are a few things to consider for the design. I figured out the path of the water from the pool to the pump and back again, with safety in mind. The suction of the pump can be very dangerous, easily entrapping a child at the intake if not properly designed. The water intake must have several points such that if any one point becomes blocked, water will continue to flow to the pump through another point so as to not entrap anyone. This is usually accomplished by two or more drains in the deepest part of the pool, spaced far enough apart that a single person would be unable to block all points at the same time. It's worth your time to search for and read many sources on the topic of pool entrapment and how to prevent it in your design. On the return, I found that the water jets should help "swirl" the water in the pool so as to slowly direct floating debris around the pool and eventually towards the skimmer. My design has two drains at the bottom of the pool, connected to the skimmer. So, water is drawn from the drains through the skimmer. The skimmer also draws water from near the surface, drawing in floating debris. The water then goes from the skimmer to the pump. I have a basic above ground, sand filter, pool pump. From the pump, the water is directed back to the pool to four return jets, one on each side of the pool. They're directed in a way to swirl the pool water in a counter clockwise direction. (Of course, clockwise would work just as well. The important thing is that all the jets work to move the water in the same direction.) Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
The days of paying out $50k for swimming pools is over.
50k ! You wish😂 most pools are going for 65-80k with out the fixings.
Wtf? What is the point of this video. No context, no result?
Subscribe to get updates as I upload videos to see my progress as I rebuild our log barn. Thanks for watching.
How many bee boxes did you pick up?
60 deeps and 30 shallows
Mortar mix is just sand & cement, 3:1 for that brand. Doesn't traditional chinking include lime and/or clay to give it more flexibility & bond in such a highly volatile spot?
Yes, I've seen various recipes. I opted for simplicity and ease of access given it's a barn project. I would definitely recommend using a more complex recipe for residential log structures.
Thanks for watching.
I am going to use the gnarly wax from my icky frames for shoe polish. (I salvaged mine before the wax was completely destroyed.) I plan to wrap and tie in a cloth bundle with a rock to sink into hot water and simmer. The wax should rise up through the cloth and float. I will let you know how that works! Cool to see someone else with convertible hive boxes! I had some 5 frame NUC boxes made to use a divider to make double 2 frame mating boxes.
I heard you say that in the video where you set the comb outside to freeze the wax moths. I've polished my shoes a time or two but lip balm is the most used homemade beeswax item in our household.
I made a similar compound and brushed onto brand new bare wood hive boxes. So far they are doing much better than then ones I used paint on. Wildly one colony decided to seal all the wood grain with propolis on the OUTSIDE. Looks very nice actually.
Hmm, interesting. I may have to try it to see how it stands up to the weather.
Promo>SM
? I'm glad you think my content has potential.
That’s sick!
I was happy to have found it. I decided to leave that section of daubing. I've since scribed my name and year in the new daubing, hoping future generations might discover it.
@@BradfieldsBeeYardthat’s amazing! Maybe they’ll even find this video!
What’s a wax moth?
Here's some good information from Wikipedia -> en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galleria_mellonella
There are two species of wax moth, the Greater wax moth (Galleria mellonella) and the Lesser wax moth (Achroia grisella). Both species eat beeswax, particularly unprocessed wax, pollen, remains of larval honey bees, honey bee cocoon silk and enclosed honey bee faeces found on walls of brood cells. Both species are pests of active hives; however they will usually take advantage of already diseased or declining honey bee colonies and will therefore indicate to some other underlying problem(s) with the colony. Both Greater and Lesser wax moth will more commonly cause damage to unattended combs in storage, especially in areas that are dark, warm and poorly ventilated
Did not have any content nor a site to explain.
Check out the full video here -> kzread.info/dash/bejne/ap5nksmsfJfJo8o.htmlsi=l_h8ug86RHjoApxB
❤ I have been wondering how to take care of bees. what do you do when I hive leaves?
Hey Hunter, I redistribute resources to other colonies. If I still have extra, I store unused boxes and frames after colonies abscond or collapse, reusing what I can at a later date, usually starting in Spring.
Also, if you really do want to start keeping honeybees, I recommend finding a local beekeepers association or club and attending their meetings.
what did you use to waterproof?
I used mapei tile adhesive with added polymers. I also used mapei grout. Each of the products specified they were for submerged use. I don't have the specific product numbers handy but if I am able to track them down, I'll be sure to add another comment. This was honestly one of the most nerve-wracking decisions. I was very worried about water retention and leaking. But three years in, the water level drops so slowly over an extended amount of time, it's difficult to tell whether it's a slow leak or water loss through evaporation. Either way, I find the water retention to be satisfactory. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any more questions!
@@BradfieldsBeeYard So I watched this and the pool looks great. My concern would be the tile cracking eventually because of water penetration. I'd have suggested doing a skim coat of mortar over the block, then using Redgard or Aquadefence to create waterproof membrane layer, THEN using the mapei adhesive and grout designed for submersion.
@@stevedispensa8020 After having read your comment, I did a little reading on the subject and I will say I agree. Should anyone be watching this with intent on building a similarly constructed concrete below grade pool, invest in a layer of aqua defense or similar product. With that said, two-three years on, the pool hasn't had anything malfunction noticeably that would indicate some imminent structural failure. I do have to reapply an occasional one inch tile but I consider that general pool maintenance. I suspect the pool would last years longer with the membrane you mentioned. But I hope it lasts long enough for us to utilize it while our children are still young. Should it get to the point where we have to retile, I certainly will apply that membrane.. Thanks for watching and taking time to offer advice to others considering building their own pool!
So?????????
Thanks for watching, Charles. You can watch the video linked to this short, or the videos in my playlist, to see the log barn project to get a bigger picture.
1:17 The filling with different materials like bricks, blocks, sand and others. I guess you are in a not so aggressive weather zone. Not sure it would pass the test of time up north (expansion properties) with the freezing... when lowering the water level before winter at -40 degrees and all the way back to 100 degrees on a hot summer day.
Yes, the weather in central NC isn't that extreme. As an example, we don't have to dig several feet below grade to avoid the frost line when digging footings. Frost level is measured in inches in many areas here, not feet. One would have to make adjustments to the way they build an inground pool in considerably colder climates. Thanks for watching!
@@BradfieldsBeeYardwhat would you do differently for a West Virginia climate?
@@rebaharward7933 First, it's worth mentioning I don't build pools for a living, this was just a DIY project. With that out of the way, I'm aware your Winters are much colder, with long freezing spells. Cosmetically, you can probably build a similar pool. Structurally, you probably need more rebar as well as polymers added to the concrete and mortar to help prevent large cracks during cold, freezing months. You probably need to also be mindful to bury the water lines below the frostline in your area. Hope this helps and good luck tackling your own DIY projects. Thanks for watching!
Rot is rotten like black mole
Yes, it is
New Sub, good video. I like how you do not let the wand cool down. That saves a lot of time. I worry your dosage may be a little light.
Thanks so much for following and the feedback! I too worry the dosage may be a little light but have opted to follow the instructions. Compared to the seasons I haven't treated vs the seasons I have treated, there's a night and day difference between my Winter survival rate. I find the fewer losses does hint to its effectiveness even at low doses. Could I have even better survival with a higher dose and fewer mites in Summer? Perhaps. Thanks again for stopping by and watching.
He's not loading bees, he's loading empty deeps, because if they were full, he'd be working!!!
All had bees, some were light but others felt like they were full of rocks. Good thing I’m still young and strapping yet 💪😂
@BradfieldsBeeYard some looked really bloody light. What were they, nuc starts or late make-ups that hadn't made weight yet?
@@davidryle1164 I do late Summer increase splits on all colonies. The Spring honey producers were cut down to share resources and the others were the started splits. The linked full video gives you a better sense of the populations at about the 6:25 mark where the bottom of several boxes are more visible. They’re not all bubbling out but they should do well through Winter and start growing over the next couple months for splits and honey production in the Spring.
@BradfieldsBeeYard do the same thing myself. I will take an 8 frame, that's a little lighter than I'd want, and drop it down into a five over five configuration.
Nice video with good progress. Why not put some kind of a filler in the voids?
It’s a cost/time/available materials decision. I have these salvaged old pine boards from another barn demolition from the same site as this tobacco barn (the log barn was moved to our land back in 2001 or 2002).
I like the music 😊
BeaUTIFUL!
Wow, that’s a lot of bees
They’d been there a little while 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝😁
😃
😁
Ooo, Honey, you clean up nice! That's an amazing transformation.
Thank you! 🤗
Wow looks great. Now come over here!
I haven't received enough views on THIS video to warrant making ANOTHER shop cleaning video. 😆