This channel is created for RC related stuff. Especially 3D RC helis, fixed wing, FPV and RC electronics. I hope to share my experience with you. Thanks.
Can i use 1.3" OLED screen? It have the SH1106 driver 128x64 res, adafruit module with SPI interface. If i can, do you have, or can you write me the steps? Please? And why do you use the lcd backlight? Isn't OLED don't need a backlight? Thank you in advance
@pfabiszewskiКүн бұрын
Do you think it would be possible to swap the screen with one with more resolution and maybe colorful one?
@celeselements19 сағат бұрын
It's a totally different animal. The MCU of BOXER has not enough resources for color screen.
@pfabiszewski13 сағат бұрын
@@celeselements thanks
@paparambo25573 күн бұрын
i have a question i build my own dolphin and i got the at75a tmotor esc. i just checked of everything works and my motor does not spin. i can hear my esc beeping but i cant spin my motor.. what could i do?
@celeselements2 күн бұрын
It may not be a problem with the motor or ESC. The beeper sound comes from the motor, which means the ESC and motor are well connected. You might want to check the top and bottom of the throttle and the reverse. If you have FC, please check the receiver's behavior on the Receiver tab.
@rickikilvi54064 күн бұрын
Thanks. Radiomaster do seem to go through a lot of versions. Still they manage to screw up the Real Time Clock on the Zorro.
@celeselements2 күн бұрын
That's right, the teardown video of brand new Boxer Crush on KZread showed that the PCB version was 2.2. The RTC battery seems to consume even when the main battery is connected. It seems to consume faster than I thought, and this seems to be a problem not only with Zorro, but also with the same family of TX such as Boxer, TX12 and Pocket.
@SFPFPV6 күн бұрын
Ecalc is usually very accurate and shows the motor pulling over 3000 watts and only going 173MPH. I wonder why it's so off.
@celeselements5 күн бұрын
Yes, the data of Ecalc is really vast and precise. I think that driving a 14 pole 1050Kv motor with 12S is probably foolish in terms of efficiency, so it is not in the data.
@PritishPal7 күн бұрын
How to selfcenture in radiomaster pocket stick ?
@celeselements7 күн бұрын
www.radiomasterrc.com/products/pocket-radio-controller-m2 Scroll down and find Check "Gimbal Adjustment". (A L-R To switch M1/M2. Turn clockwise to disable self-centering (Throttle). Turn counterclockwise to enable self-centering (Elevator))
@timdoink68737 күн бұрын
What’s the flight time on your 12s setups when cruising like 100kph or so?
@celeselements7 күн бұрын
I didn't check it. It intended for full throttle. I'll check it in this weekend, and reply for you.
@timdoink68737 күн бұрын
@@celeselements Oh wow great, thank you!!
@celeselements19 сағат бұрын
It was a pretty windy day and I could fly about 26km in 15 minutes. I tried to maintain a speed of 100 km/h. proof vid : kzread.info/dash/bejne/i2idvKSkdLKXlpM.html
@timdoink687314 сағат бұрын
@@celeselements That’s not bad!!
@forrestallison187911 күн бұрын
Theres just no way you are running those in a 12s configuration like your circuit diagram shows. They _must_ be in parallel. 12s would be insane
@celeselements11 күн бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@tacticalFPV12 күн бұрын
Fantastic 😮
@celeselements11 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@techntricks119412 күн бұрын
Can you please make a video on how to fit external elrs nano/micro bey module for boxer as a internal module like you mentioned in this video
@celeselements11 күн бұрын
It has another problem. Internal module is full-duplex(TX/RX has separate pin), external module is half-duplex(single pin). For this reason, externalizing the internal module requires circuitry, which can be unreliable and is not recommended.
@techntricks119411 күн бұрын
@@celeselements Thanks for this explanation, I want to do opposite, I have ranger micro and I wanted to fit it internal because mine is with 4in1 module
@techntricks119412 күн бұрын
Very nice, I watched boxer led mod videos as well.
@celeselements11 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@smackfpv12 күн бұрын
Hey! Now this is better for sure. I can trust the numbers this time as opposed to the last video I commented on. Only thing that is missing is a speed run the other direction to account for a tail wind and then average the numbers for top speed. It was very windy when you launched and that could be good for 30 to 40 kph.Well done though!
@celeselements12 күн бұрын
Thank you! I'll try again when there's no wind! Watch my video about Alpha Strike!
@smackfpv12 күн бұрын
So, I hate to be the bad guy but a moment in time like that is not an actual 303 kph. That was a glitch in the gps signal and the way INav calculates it. Your speed went from 197 to 303 kph for a fraction of a second. I do not even trust the 3D speed as it is know to also be a bit erratic transitioning from a dive to horizontal flight. Give us a two way pass sustained for at least 30 seconds and not coming out of a dive like you demonstrated. That would be your top speed. I do like your setup and appreciate the good work to build this Dolphin! Take care...
@celeselements12 күн бұрын
Thank you! You're not a bad person. What you're saying is true. I was excited by the numbers, and needed a impressiveness in the KZread video title. 30 second at full throttle is too harsh for parts in these hot and humid weather!
@fpvwing12 күн бұрын
Amps? Prop? Great aircraft Well done
@celeselements12 күн бұрын
Thank you! Check the description. I didn't check the amperage.
@linhtet927914 күн бұрын
Do you have an email, im still confused about batt - fc - esc connection
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
Before send me the mail, check my other 2 videos below about 12S, you can find the wiring. kzread.info/dash/bejne/qoN9pcWJfK-pqdo.htmlsi=9wx609PuOsmOA5Rj kzread.info/dash/bejne/YoZky6Npkq6aqtI.htmlsi=OMmpSWw1GYCJtYD0
@linhtet927914 күн бұрын
@celeselements thanks for reply, oh i see you only use single 6s to power the fc
@ttucker207313 күн бұрын
👍🏻 great. Is this 12s or 6s. Thanks
@celeselements12 күн бұрын
Thanks. It's a 12S setup.
@chrisbee548115 күн бұрын
Which motors did you like better? 32.5-12 or 2816? I believe you tested both, but on different props. If I can recommend you a fast prop from my test: APC 6.5x6.5 I dont know why, but smaller props have been faster top speed and more efficient.
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
32.5-12 is on the way to my home. I think 32.5-12 is a bit bigger and heavier motor, so it can handle more larger prop. I'll test your recommended prop and APC 5.25x8, 7x11, high pitch prop. 7x11 will burn 2816/1050Kv motor. Small props has smaller disk area, it act as drag. I'm looking for a way the best result for me among RPM, speed, current draw and sound!
@chrisbee548114 күн бұрын
@@celeselements I tried the APC 7x11 prop with 3110 motors. They didnt get fast at all and just draw high current. The problem is they have so much pitch, that they stall at any speed below 200 kph. So even getting in the air is not optimal. I wouldnt try more than a pitch of 8. Also not go bigger than 6.5 inch or stay below 7 inch. With a 5 inch prop you will need higher kv motors. If you want more silent, three blade props and a pitch of 5 to 6. But top speed and higher speed cruise efficiency is not as good. Just ordered some 32.5 12 950kv for 8S with 8x6 props
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
Thanks for sharing. I have similar experience about 7 inch prop(Super-S 7x7). As you can see in the video, RPM reach 40K. I think the motor is close to the mechanical limit.
@ngocoan57616 күн бұрын
12s lipo 🤯🤯🤯🤯?
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
Yes! It driven by 12 cell battery!
@unknowninvictus252016 күн бұрын
why did you add a giant cap on the FC board (the one just before the cooling fan of the ESC)? Also, Very nice and fast dolphin build!
@linhtet927916 күн бұрын
Cuz sudden voltage spike
@unknowninvictus252016 күн бұрын
@@linhtet9279 Yeah but that doesn't look like the battery circuit? and what uF does he use.
@Brian-S16 күн бұрын
@@unknowninvictus2520you can add a small cap around 220uf to the vbat and ground pads on the flight controller. It helps to clean up the noise before power goes to the regulator on board which goes to the gyro. The less noise you can get to the gyro the better. Never really seen it in wings but it's pretty common on larger or power hungry quads
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
Thank you! You're sharp! A cap on FC is for rush current, surge, etc. honestly, it is a overkill. I think the capacitance is OK with 330~1000uF, mine is 680uF 35V.
@DODICZEK18 күн бұрын
That fast!
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@fpvwing19 күн бұрын
Very good. How many amps maximum? I use 3115 1500kv motor but only 6S, with 7x4, might try 7x10
@celeselements19 күн бұрын
Thank you! At my configuration, the FC can't measure the current on ESC. I didn't check the current with other instrument, but the ESC temp is rise over 194°F(90°C). My ESC is 80A spec, I think the current exceeds that spec. The RPM mark 33,000RPM at full throttle. Your setup looks robust and fast!
@pk239614 күн бұрын
3115 1520kv 6s 7x6” 250km/h horizontal 22*C Pulling roughly 1kW @ 200km/h 1.9kW @ 250km/h I think with better batteries it would be a little faster.
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
Great work! I choose 12S for small difference and future options. I think 12S has a pros at full throttle sustaining than 6S.
@andreyl270520 күн бұрын
awesome)
@celeselements19 күн бұрын
Thanks 😁
@fullzyga21 күн бұрын
Voltage from board for fan is about 8.78v !!! Oryginal fan is propable 12V and working on 8.78 for lower power and noise.
@celeselements20 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@ngocoan57616 күн бұрын
does it work for 5v fan?
@FredericHeim22 күн бұрын
Nothing to do with this mod but is there a way to add more switch and pot than stock Pocket ?
@celeselements21 күн бұрын
Oh, It is a different animal for me!
@FredericHeim22 күн бұрын
Great job ❤
@celeselements21 күн бұрын
Thank you! 😄
@spartan329925 күн бұрын
Yes, Yes, Yes!!!
@celeselements14 күн бұрын
Thank you!
@rickikilvi540626 күн бұрын
Why would you do this when OLED are poor in bright sunlight ?.
@celeselements22 күн бұрын
Have you watched my video?
@XkiwwwАй бұрын
mod oled jumper t lite please
@celeselementsАй бұрын
Sorry, I don't have the radio. You should be able to mod it by referring to my mod.
@XkiwwwАй бұрын
@@celeselements No problem. Thank you.😀
@moto_smithАй бұрын
Thanks.
@celeselementsАй бұрын
You're welcome!
@AerialWaviatorАй бұрын
Great overview, of the original ZOHD Dart (classic), possible mods, and what this aircraft is capable of. Thank you for sharing.
@celeselementsАй бұрын
My pleasure!
@Dan-ro6njАй бұрын
I'm getting "Not a valid firmware" error on boxer. Tried flashing manually like you showed (trim buttons + power button), also tried Buddy tool. First i tried it on old 2.8.4 version, then tried upgrading to 2.10.0, 2.10.1, always the same error (the radio works on normal lcd though). Also tried changing SD card contents then I saw some comment here, that you think that on Edgetx versions 2.10.X and up, the OLED support could be implemented by default, but no, OLED won't light up at Any ideas what to do, please?
@celeselementsАй бұрын
It's a problem I've never seen before. The code for OLED is implemented on 2.10.x and up, but it's not activated for OLED. So the firmware need to mod. Please follow instruction at below. 1. Download the firmware for OLED and flash the radio with original LCD. 2. Complete OLED radio hardware. Doulble check the wiring. 3. And than your radio can turn on with OLED. 4. After normal turn on the radio, flash bootloader. Please let me know radio model, downloaded firmware name, and the PCB version. (Refer for PCB version : kzread.info/dash/bejne/gWenyNd6YNy7ebA.html )
@Dan-ro6njАй бұрын
@@celeselements Thank you! Turns out I'm an idiot. I love when issues get solved in the middle of documenting them... The problem was in the way I was downloading the firmware files from your Github. I right-clicked the file and picked -> Save link as. The downloaded file had the .bin extension so it wasn't suspicious to me, but probably there is some issue with formatting this way. When I download your whole repo into a zip, the flashing works normally. OLED lights up! You don't have to read the rest of the comment)) ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Thanks for your reply, i will describe my issue best I can: - I have a Boxer, which has the new V2.0 PCB version - I have triple checked wiring (with OLED connected via the 12-pin FPC cable, i checked multimeter continuity between OLED pins and Boxer motherboard pins. It is 100% correct according to your photo github.com/DongkwanYi/OLEDBOXER/blob/main/pinout_boardside.png) --- With the original LCD, the radio operates correctly. It uses the standard boxer-2.10.1 (839b60f6) version. If I now disconnect original LCD and connect OLED, it doesn't work = that is expected. With the original LCD connected, when I put the OLEDBOXER2101.bin file (from your Github) to the FIRMWARE folder on SD card, and try to flash it (original LCD -> enter bootloader using trim buttons and power -> Write Firmware -> in file selection screen, pick the OLEDBOXER2101.bin file and ENTER -> it doesn't flash, only shows "Not a valid firmware!" message in center of screen, and waits until I press RTN or ENTER button, which puts me back in file selection screen. 1) turn off Boxer, connect battery, trim buttons & power to get into BOOTLOADER mode 2) pick Write Firmware 3) choose OLEDBOXER2101.bin 4) "Not a valid firmware!" Using this way to flash the standard boxer-v2.10.1.bin file works. (after picking it in Bootloader, it says "Hold [ENT] to start" and flashes normally). 1) on buddy.edgetx.org/, select EdgeTX Centurion v2.10.1 2) Download .bin -> put downloaded boxer-v2.10.1.bin on SD card FIRMWARE folder 3) flash using method above 4) "Hold [ENT] to start" Using the Buddy tool to flash your Github file OLEDBOXER2101.bin does flash it, but soft-bricks radio: 1) turn off Boxer, connect USB to PC, open buddy.edgetx.org/#/flash, 2) pick Local File -> OLEDBOXER2101.bin from my PC and flash, it erases old firmware and flashes new firmware correctly. But with this method, the radio did not even boot up (the FlightMode LEDs light up from left to right, but then turn off -> the first one should stay lit but doesn't). Afterwards, I repeated this process to flash standard boxer-2.10.1 (839b60f6) version, which returned me to operational state for LCD.
@celeselements29 күн бұрын
@@Dan-ro6nj I'm glad it worked out well!
@sacdongАй бұрын
I love it, too Dart was a good one for a long range flight, too kzread.info/dash/bejne/gZ15pMRpnayxpbg.htmlsi=RoqJePdajcurGEgO
@mcemtpockets1775Ай бұрын
Amazing
@celeselementsАй бұрын
Thank you!
@zioeddy3338Ай бұрын
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@celeselementsАй бұрын
Thank you, I'm happy for laughing at my video!
@MaxXGrandАй бұрын
Supper kumpel. Einfach gute arbeit. Leider kann ich kein englisch aber versuche durch deine videos die detailiert gemacht werden es zu verstehen. ❤
@celeselementsАй бұрын
(google translate) Vielen Dank, und ich hoffe, es hilft Ihnen. Wenn Sie sich die Datei auf dem Link in der Beschreibung anschauen, können Sie sie einfach benutzen und ich denke, es wird hilfreich sein. Mein Neffe lebt in den Niederlanden, und es ist sehr schön, so einen Deutschen zu schreiben. Ich weiß, dass Deutschland und die Niederlande Geschichte und Sprache nahe stehen. Es gibt sowieso nicht viele europäische Kommentare, vielen Dank für die Mitteilung! Wenn es ein Missverständnis gibt, bitte verstehen Sie die sprachlichen Unterschiede! Thank you very much, and I hope it helps you. If you look at the file on the link in the description, you will be able to use it easily and I think it will be helpful. My nephew lives in the Netherlands, and it's very nice to have a German write like this. I know that Germany and the Netherlands are close to history and language. There aren't many European comments anyway, thank you for the communication! If there is any misunderstanding, please understand the linguistic differences!
@FpvDevilbreathАй бұрын
is a nice video, please remove the orrible music...
@celeselementsАй бұрын
Oh, I'm sorry about that. It is late to remove the music, next time, I will choose a good music.
@SanticavalloFPVАй бұрын
Hi, What is the autonomy?
@celeselementsАй бұрын
Please refer the description. airframe : Flite Test Bloody Baron 737mm motor : Xnova 2204/2350Kv prop : HQ 7*4.5 battery : Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 2S1P PV cells : claim to sunpower maxeon C60 1/3 in serial blocking diode : TI SM74611 FC : matek F405WMN + INAV 6.1.0 radio : Boxer + ELRS(betaFPV SuperD)
@pstarxxx78Ай бұрын
Just a personal preference here. I’d rather get my hand cut by the prop vs my head cut or eye taken out doing an over head throw.
@brkfpv60Ай бұрын
You cannot see the real GPS speed while diving, there is not much advantage in doing 12s. It is possible to reach these speeds with 6s and a high pitch propeller and a high kv motor . good flights
@celeselementsАй бұрын
Thank you. Honestly I have a fantasy about high voltage. I think 12S seem to have an advantage in maintaining voltage(less Vsag).
@MatthewTaylor3Ай бұрын
I prefer concept 1
@celeselementsАй бұрын
Thank you for comment! I like concept 1, too!
@cookieRELATIVELY2 ай бұрын
and in general this esc definitely has telemetry. and I'm not sure but it seems to have a current sensor, so in the settings this can be configured if you connect the TX esc to the flight controller
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
Thank you! I'll check it!
@cookieRELATIVELY2 ай бұрын
Friend, according to my calculations, this configuration has reached its limit, why don't you try tmotor 3115 1050kv-900kv with 6inch propeller 12s 900kv - 6 inch prop 12s 1050kv - 5.5 inch prop
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
Thank you for advice! At initial setup, I refer the performance FBL helis, it run 12S and around 500Kv motor. I'm testing it by increasing the motor Kv little by little. In my opinion, the 3115 motor is a little bit heavy for my configuration, I want it to be less than 100g.
@cookieRELATIVELY2 ай бұрын
@@celeselements then it makes sense to consider RCINPOWER AOS Supernova 2807, as they say this is one of the best engines, but it has 1400kv so it will have to be used with 8s
@sgas2 ай бұрын
Silicone 30awg is fine? Worrying about this lol. I also dont get why detaching the panel at 2:50 is necessary? Cant I solder on the wires with it still on or will there be alignment issues? Mine has headers on the side
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
I think AWG30 is fine for this purpose. The reason for detaching the panel is to align it with TX's front case. The pin header need to remove for dimensional interference.
@sgas9 күн бұрын
@@celeselementsHey again, is the display pcb necessary? I cant figure out a way to fit it inside the zorro. Could I maybe use just a plain adapter board for the display 24pin? or whatever
@celeselements8 күн бұрын
The PCB on OLED panel is necessary for driving OLED. The circuit on PCB is here : (scroll down, you can find it) ko.aliexpress.com/item/32950307344.html?channel=twinner You can make a circuit referring above link, but I recommend the PCB on the panel. Cut a small amount of side edge of PCB, I hope it helps you.
@sgas8 күн бұрын
@@celeselements I tried cutting the sides and the panel doesnt work anymore. I cut at the outline edge line of the display/where the text starts on the other side. I tested with multimeter and the exposed traces are only ground.. I think ill try female to female flex to extend distance from pcb and just push the pcb in the shell randomly. Thanks for the helpful link. Zorro is veeery tight inside.
@celeselements8 күн бұрын
I'm sorry to hear that. but You will find a way. You always have.
@LorenzoCascone2 ай бұрын
You can change the fan with a better one, I reccomend GDStime 4007 5V
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
Wow, Thank you! That's what I was looking for!
@skelethornbro2 ай бұрын
Launching overhead like that is human error. When you hold it vertically flight controller will try to level the plane and it will overshoot the correction after you release it. The right method is to throw horizontally into the wind or slightly nose up.
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
I'm happy for laughing at my video! My auto launch angle is 45 degree, I can't meet the degree. I think your last sentence is golden rule of launching. I need to practice overhead launching because sometimes the airframe is built very heavy for long range flights
@moriwaky2 ай бұрын
did you try to throw it from the tip of the wing?. I think is easy and safe. Try from the left wing with your right hand to compensate for the torque of the motor
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
I think sling shot is hard for this shape of plane. This is because the heavy parts - battery, motor - are dispersed far from the CG and long plane length.
@laptran27962 ай бұрын
Can I use a 1.3" or 1.4" OLED screen? Can OLED screens with built-in I2C be used? The mod code can be used for ELRS and CC2500 versions, right?
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
Check the OLED driver. The OLED should be compatible with SSD1309 and SPI interface. I2C is not supported. The display is independent of RF system.
@tchristensen81542 ай бұрын
Hi could this work with radiomaster ER8G? Thanks
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
Yes, ER8G is good enough to use on helis. But it didn't support gemini mode.
@tchristensen81542 ай бұрын
@@celeselementsthank you
@moriwaky2 ай бұрын
Just droping the charger like this and the end It´s like saying F*** P**** of S*** go F*** your self a thousand times LOL
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching!
@amirazim12142 ай бұрын
And the speed is not count as a dive, u only take the real speed when the plane is level and running a full throttle for 300/600m
@celeselements2 ай бұрын
Yes, right. I think a dive is cheating for a number. I'll try for 200mph at level run!
Пікірлер
Can i use 1.3" OLED screen? It have the SH1106 driver 128x64 res, adafruit module with SPI interface. If i can, do you have, or can you write me the steps? Please? And why do you use the lcd backlight? Isn't OLED don't need a backlight? Thank you in advance
Do you think it would be possible to swap the screen with one with more resolution and maybe colorful one?
It's a totally different animal. The MCU of BOXER has not enough resources for color screen.
@@celeselements thanks
i have a question i build my own dolphin and i got the at75a tmotor esc. i just checked of everything works and my motor does not spin. i can hear my esc beeping but i cant spin my motor.. what could i do?
It may not be a problem with the motor or ESC. The beeper sound comes from the motor, which means the ESC and motor are well connected. You might want to check the top and bottom of the throttle and the reverse. If you have FC, please check the receiver's behavior on the Receiver tab.
Thanks. Radiomaster do seem to go through a lot of versions. Still they manage to screw up the Real Time Clock on the Zorro.
That's right, the teardown video of brand new Boxer Crush on KZread showed that the PCB version was 2.2. The RTC battery seems to consume even when the main battery is connected. It seems to consume faster than I thought, and this seems to be a problem not only with Zorro, but also with the same family of TX such as Boxer, TX12 and Pocket.
Ecalc is usually very accurate and shows the motor pulling over 3000 watts and only going 173MPH. I wonder why it's so off.
Yes, the data of Ecalc is really vast and precise. I think that driving a 14 pole 1050Kv motor with 12S is probably foolish in terms of efficiency, so it is not in the data.
How to selfcenture in radiomaster pocket stick ?
www.radiomasterrc.com/products/pocket-radio-controller-m2 Scroll down and find Check "Gimbal Adjustment". (A L-R To switch M1/M2. Turn clockwise to disable self-centering (Throttle). Turn counterclockwise to enable self-centering (Elevator))
What’s the flight time on your 12s setups when cruising like 100kph or so?
I didn't check it. It intended for full throttle. I'll check it in this weekend, and reply for you.
@@celeselements Oh wow great, thank you!!
It was a pretty windy day and I could fly about 26km in 15 minutes. I tried to maintain a speed of 100 km/h. proof vid : kzread.info/dash/bejne/i2idvKSkdLKXlpM.html
@@celeselements That’s not bad!!
Theres just no way you are running those in a 12s configuration like your circuit diagram shows. They _must_ be in parallel. 12s would be insane
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic 😮
Thank you!
Can you please make a video on how to fit external elrs nano/micro bey module for boxer as a internal module like you mentioned in this video
It has another problem. Internal module is full-duplex(TX/RX has separate pin), external module is half-duplex(single pin). For this reason, externalizing the internal module requires circuitry, which can be unreliable and is not recommended.
@@celeselements Thanks for this explanation, I want to do opposite, I have ranger micro and I wanted to fit it internal because mine is with 4in1 module
Very nice, I watched boxer led mod videos as well.
Thank you!
Hey! Now this is better for sure. I can trust the numbers this time as opposed to the last video I commented on. Only thing that is missing is a speed run the other direction to account for a tail wind and then average the numbers for top speed. It was very windy when you launched and that could be good for 30 to 40 kph.Well done though!
Thank you! I'll try again when there's no wind! Watch my video about Alpha Strike!
So, I hate to be the bad guy but a moment in time like that is not an actual 303 kph. That was a glitch in the gps signal and the way INav calculates it. Your speed went from 197 to 303 kph for a fraction of a second. I do not even trust the 3D speed as it is know to also be a bit erratic transitioning from a dive to horizontal flight. Give us a two way pass sustained for at least 30 seconds and not coming out of a dive like you demonstrated. That would be your top speed. I do like your setup and appreciate the good work to build this Dolphin! Take care...
Thank you! You're not a bad person. What you're saying is true. I was excited by the numbers, and needed a impressiveness in the KZread video title. 30 second at full throttle is too harsh for parts in these hot and humid weather!
Amps? Prop? Great aircraft Well done
Thank you! Check the description. I didn't check the amperage.
Do you have an email, im still confused about batt - fc - esc connection
Before send me the mail, check my other 2 videos below about 12S, you can find the wiring. kzread.info/dash/bejne/qoN9pcWJfK-pqdo.htmlsi=9wx609PuOsmOA5Rj kzread.info/dash/bejne/YoZky6Npkq6aqtI.htmlsi=OMmpSWw1GYCJtYD0
@celeselements thanks for reply, oh i see you only use single 6s to power the fc
👍🏻 great. Is this 12s or 6s. Thanks
Thanks. It's a 12S setup.
Which motors did you like better? 32.5-12 or 2816? I believe you tested both, but on different props. If I can recommend you a fast prop from my test: APC 6.5x6.5 I dont know why, but smaller props have been faster top speed and more efficient.
32.5-12 is on the way to my home. I think 32.5-12 is a bit bigger and heavier motor, so it can handle more larger prop. I'll test your recommended prop and APC 5.25x8, 7x11, high pitch prop. 7x11 will burn 2816/1050Kv motor. Small props has smaller disk area, it act as drag. I'm looking for a way the best result for me among RPM, speed, current draw and sound!
@@celeselements I tried the APC 7x11 prop with 3110 motors. They didnt get fast at all and just draw high current. The problem is they have so much pitch, that they stall at any speed below 200 kph. So even getting in the air is not optimal. I wouldnt try more than a pitch of 8. Also not go bigger than 6.5 inch or stay below 7 inch. With a 5 inch prop you will need higher kv motors. If you want more silent, three blade props and a pitch of 5 to 6. But top speed and higher speed cruise efficiency is not as good. Just ordered some 32.5 12 950kv for 8S with 8x6 props
Thanks for sharing. I have similar experience about 7 inch prop(Super-S 7x7). As you can see in the video, RPM reach 40K. I think the motor is close to the mechanical limit.
12s lipo 🤯🤯🤯🤯?
Yes! It driven by 12 cell battery!
why did you add a giant cap on the FC board (the one just before the cooling fan of the ESC)? Also, Very nice and fast dolphin build!
Cuz sudden voltage spike
@@linhtet9279 Yeah but that doesn't look like the battery circuit? and what uF does he use.
@@unknowninvictus2520you can add a small cap around 220uf to the vbat and ground pads on the flight controller. It helps to clean up the noise before power goes to the regulator on board which goes to the gyro. The less noise you can get to the gyro the better. Never really seen it in wings but it's pretty common on larger or power hungry quads
Thank you! You're sharp! A cap on FC is for rush current, surge, etc. honestly, it is a overkill. I think the capacitance is OK with 330~1000uF, mine is 680uF 35V.
That fast!
Thank you!
Very good. How many amps maximum? I use 3115 1500kv motor but only 6S, with 7x4, might try 7x10
Thank you! At my configuration, the FC can't measure the current on ESC. I didn't check the current with other instrument, but the ESC temp is rise over 194°F(90°C). My ESC is 80A spec, I think the current exceeds that spec. The RPM mark 33,000RPM at full throttle. Your setup looks robust and fast!
3115 1520kv 6s 7x6” 250km/h horizontal 22*C Pulling roughly 1kW @ 200km/h 1.9kW @ 250km/h I think with better batteries it would be a little faster.
Great work! I choose 12S for small difference and future options. I think 12S has a pros at full throttle sustaining than 6S.
awesome)
Thanks 😁
Voltage from board for fan is about 8.78v !!! Oryginal fan is propable 12V and working on 8.78 for lower power and noise.
Thank you!
does it work for 5v fan?
Nothing to do with this mod but is there a way to add more switch and pot than stock Pocket ?
Oh, It is a different animal for me!
Great job ❤
Thank you! 😄
Yes, Yes, Yes!!!
Thank you!
Why would you do this when OLED are poor in bright sunlight ?.
Have you watched my video?
mod oled jumper t lite please
Sorry, I don't have the radio. You should be able to mod it by referring to my mod.
@@celeselements No problem. Thank you.😀
Thanks.
You're welcome!
Great overview, of the original ZOHD Dart (classic), possible mods, and what this aircraft is capable of. Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
I'm getting "Not a valid firmware" error on boxer. Tried flashing manually like you showed (trim buttons + power button), also tried Buddy tool. First i tried it on old 2.8.4 version, then tried upgrading to 2.10.0, 2.10.1, always the same error (the radio works on normal lcd though). Also tried changing SD card contents then I saw some comment here, that you think that on Edgetx versions 2.10.X and up, the OLED support could be implemented by default, but no, OLED won't light up at Any ideas what to do, please?
It's a problem I've never seen before. The code for OLED is implemented on 2.10.x and up, but it's not activated for OLED. So the firmware need to mod. Please follow instruction at below. 1. Download the firmware for OLED and flash the radio with original LCD. 2. Complete OLED radio hardware. Doulble check the wiring. 3. And than your radio can turn on with OLED. 4. After normal turn on the radio, flash bootloader. Please let me know radio model, downloaded firmware name, and the PCB version. (Refer for PCB version : kzread.info/dash/bejne/gWenyNd6YNy7ebA.html )
@@celeselements Thank you! Turns out I'm an idiot. I love when issues get solved in the middle of documenting them... The problem was in the way I was downloading the firmware files from your Github. I right-clicked the file and picked -> Save link as. The downloaded file had the .bin extension so it wasn't suspicious to me, but probably there is some issue with formatting this way. When I download your whole repo into a zip, the flashing works normally. OLED lights up! You don't have to read the rest of the comment)) ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Thanks for your reply, i will describe my issue best I can: - I have a Boxer, which has the new V2.0 PCB version - I have triple checked wiring (with OLED connected via the 12-pin FPC cable, i checked multimeter continuity between OLED pins and Boxer motherboard pins. It is 100% correct according to your photo github.com/DongkwanYi/OLEDBOXER/blob/main/pinout_boardside.png) --- With the original LCD, the radio operates correctly. It uses the standard boxer-2.10.1 (839b60f6) version. If I now disconnect original LCD and connect OLED, it doesn't work = that is expected. With the original LCD connected, when I put the OLEDBOXER2101.bin file (from your Github) to the FIRMWARE folder on SD card, and try to flash it (original LCD -> enter bootloader using trim buttons and power -> Write Firmware -> in file selection screen, pick the OLEDBOXER2101.bin file and ENTER -> it doesn't flash, only shows "Not a valid firmware!" message in center of screen, and waits until I press RTN or ENTER button, which puts me back in file selection screen. 1) turn off Boxer, connect battery, trim buttons & power to get into BOOTLOADER mode 2) pick Write Firmware 3) choose OLEDBOXER2101.bin 4) "Not a valid firmware!" Using this way to flash the standard boxer-v2.10.1.bin file works. (after picking it in Bootloader, it says "Hold [ENT] to start" and flashes normally). 1) on buddy.edgetx.org/, select EdgeTX Centurion v2.10.1 2) Download .bin -> put downloaded boxer-v2.10.1.bin on SD card FIRMWARE folder 3) flash using method above 4) "Hold [ENT] to start" Using the Buddy tool to flash your Github file OLEDBOXER2101.bin does flash it, but soft-bricks radio: 1) turn off Boxer, connect USB to PC, open buddy.edgetx.org/#/flash, 2) pick Local File -> OLEDBOXER2101.bin from my PC and flash, it erases old firmware and flashes new firmware correctly. But with this method, the radio did not even boot up (the FlightMode LEDs light up from left to right, but then turn off -> the first one should stay lit but doesn't). Afterwards, I repeated this process to flash standard boxer-2.10.1 (839b60f6) version, which returned me to operational state for LCD.
@@Dan-ro6nj I'm glad it worked out well!
I love it, too Dart was a good one for a long range flight, too kzread.info/dash/bejne/gZ15pMRpnayxpbg.htmlsi=RoqJePdajcurGEgO
Amazing
Thank you!
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Thank you, I'm happy for laughing at my video!
Supper kumpel. Einfach gute arbeit. Leider kann ich kein englisch aber versuche durch deine videos die detailiert gemacht werden es zu verstehen. ❤
(google translate) Vielen Dank, und ich hoffe, es hilft Ihnen. Wenn Sie sich die Datei auf dem Link in der Beschreibung anschauen, können Sie sie einfach benutzen und ich denke, es wird hilfreich sein. Mein Neffe lebt in den Niederlanden, und es ist sehr schön, so einen Deutschen zu schreiben. Ich weiß, dass Deutschland und die Niederlande Geschichte und Sprache nahe stehen. Es gibt sowieso nicht viele europäische Kommentare, vielen Dank für die Mitteilung! Wenn es ein Missverständnis gibt, bitte verstehen Sie die sprachlichen Unterschiede! Thank you very much, and I hope it helps you. If you look at the file on the link in the description, you will be able to use it easily and I think it will be helpful. My nephew lives in the Netherlands, and it's very nice to have a German write like this. I know that Germany and the Netherlands are close to history and language. There aren't many European comments anyway, thank you for the communication! If there is any misunderstanding, please understand the linguistic differences!
is a nice video, please remove the orrible music...
Oh, I'm sorry about that. It is late to remove the music, next time, I will choose a good music.
Hi, What is the autonomy?
Please refer the description. airframe : Flite Test Bloody Baron 737mm motor : Xnova 2204/2350Kv prop : HQ 7*4.5 battery : Sanyo NCR18650GA 3500mAh 2S1P PV cells : claim to sunpower maxeon C60 1/3 in serial blocking diode : TI SM74611 FC : matek F405WMN + INAV 6.1.0 radio : Boxer + ELRS(betaFPV SuperD)
Just a personal preference here. I’d rather get my hand cut by the prop vs my head cut or eye taken out doing an over head throw.
You cannot see the real GPS speed while diving, there is not much advantage in doing 12s. It is possible to reach these speeds with 6s and a high pitch propeller and a high kv motor . good flights
Thank you. Honestly I have a fantasy about high voltage. I think 12S seem to have an advantage in maintaining voltage(less Vsag).
I prefer concept 1
Thank you for comment! I like concept 1, too!
and in general this esc definitely has telemetry. and I'm not sure but it seems to have a current sensor, so in the settings this can be configured if you connect the TX esc to the flight controller
Thank you! I'll check it!
Friend, according to my calculations, this configuration has reached its limit, why don't you try tmotor 3115 1050kv-900kv with 6inch propeller 12s 900kv - 6 inch prop 12s 1050kv - 5.5 inch prop
Thank you for advice! At initial setup, I refer the performance FBL helis, it run 12S and around 500Kv motor. I'm testing it by increasing the motor Kv little by little. In my opinion, the 3115 motor is a little bit heavy for my configuration, I want it to be less than 100g.
@@celeselements then it makes sense to consider RCINPOWER AOS Supernova 2807, as they say this is one of the best engines, but it has 1400kv so it will have to be used with 8s
Silicone 30awg is fine? Worrying about this lol. I also dont get why detaching the panel at 2:50 is necessary? Cant I solder on the wires with it still on or will there be alignment issues? Mine has headers on the side
I think AWG30 is fine for this purpose. The reason for detaching the panel is to align it with TX's front case. The pin header need to remove for dimensional interference.
@@celeselementsHey again, is the display pcb necessary? I cant figure out a way to fit it inside the zorro. Could I maybe use just a plain adapter board for the display 24pin? or whatever
The PCB on OLED panel is necessary for driving OLED. The circuit on PCB is here : (scroll down, you can find it) ko.aliexpress.com/item/32950307344.html?channel=twinner You can make a circuit referring above link, but I recommend the PCB on the panel. Cut a small amount of side edge of PCB, I hope it helps you.
@@celeselements I tried cutting the sides and the panel doesnt work anymore. I cut at the outline edge line of the display/where the text starts on the other side. I tested with multimeter and the exposed traces are only ground.. I think ill try female to female flex to extend distance from pcb and just push the pcb in the shell randomly. Thanks for the helpful link. Zorro is veeery tight inside.
I'm sorry to hear that. but You will find a way. You always have.
You can change the fan with a better one, I reccomend GDStime 4007 5V
Wow, Thank you! That's what I was looking for!
Launching overhead like that is human error. When you hold it vertically flight controller will try to level the plane and it will overshoot the correction after you release it. The right method is to throw horizontally into the wind or slightly nose up.
I'm happy for laughing at my video! My auto launch angle is 45 degree, I can't meet the degree. I think your last sentence is golden rule of launching. I need to practice overhead launching because sometimes the airframe is built very heavy for long range flights
did you try to throw it from the tip of the wing?. I think is easy and safe. Try from the left wing with your right hand to compensate for the torque of the motor
I think sling shot is hard for this shape of plane. This is because the heavy parts - battery, motor - are dispersed far from the CG and long plane length.
Can I use a 1.3" or 1.4" OLED screen? Can OLED screens with built-in I2C be used? The mod code can be used for ELRS and CC2500 versions, right?
Check the OLED driver. The OLED should be compatible with SSD1309 and SPI interface. I2C is not supported. The display is independent of RF system.
Hi could this work with radiomaster ER8G? Thanks
Yes, ER8G is good enough to use on helis. But it didn't support gemini mode.
@@celeselementsthank you
Just droping the charger like this and the end It´s like saying F*** P**** of S*** go F*** your self a thousand times LOL
Thanks for watching!
And the speed is not count as a dive, u only take the real speed when the plane is level and running a full throttle for 300/600m
Yes, right. I think a dive is cheating for a number. I'll try for 200mph at level run!
" I try again" You sir are a true hero
Thank you! I get energy from someone like you!!