Пікірлер

• 
  @chaswarren72392 күн бұрын

  Really clear and helpful explanation, thank you. I have a long & short lever, but mostly use them for hung up trees. Most trees I cut are deciduous, so relatively easy to get a line up there which I often do for just in case of this. I wonder if a lever is used more for conifers ?

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 күн бұрын

  Hi, thanks for the kind words. Yes - I mainly use the felling lever for toppling conifers, although they can be useful for freeing a trapped saw in a hardwood, or making space to start off a wedge insert, and the cant hook is useful for rolling hardwood sections on the ground too.

• 
  @Mylifelovingit2 күн бұрын

  What are the black fittings for on the felling lever?

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 күн бұрын

  It's a cant hook. It is on a hinge and is used to roll or turn logs. Handy for twisting felled logs of the stump hinge.

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  @Mylifelovingit2 күн бұрын

  @@JamesTheForester i would never have guessed, thanks

• 
  @chaswarren72392 күн бұрын

  @@Mylifelovingit If the tree had hung up, then the lever & cant hook can be used to rotate the tree and roll it out of the holding branches. You need to decide which way to go & then cut most of the hinge away to allow it to rotate in that direction

• 
  @leighparsons2 күн бұрын

  Very slick and totally professional. I loved the way you predicted the hinge would not break. Quick question - why a lever and not use wedges? I would have palmed a wedge in after the bar went far enough to stop the tree falling back and given it a few taps if necessary. I will add that I’m strictly amateur although I am fairly experienced. Never too old to learn though!

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 күн бұрын

  Hi Leigh. Thank you for the comment 😊👍 the reason was because the tree was not of a large enough diameter so the wedge would have hit the saw. But you are quite correct, on a larger diameter tree the Felling wedge would be the way to go. I also wanted to show how to use the felling lever 🙂

• 
  @emogowl5 күн бұрын

  Thats great, what's more I actually understand it, thank you, really useful

• 
  @JamesTheForester5 күн бұрын

  Thank you 😊

• 
  @emogowl5 күн бұрын

  You do some of the very best instructional videos, I wish you had the time to do more

• 
  @JamesTheForester5 күн бұрын

  That's really kind of you to say so. Thank you so much

• 
  @HuplesCat5 күн бұрын

  Excellent demo. To the point and assumes nothing from the viewers. Thanks

• 
  @JamesTheForester5 күн бұрын

  Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment 👍

• 
  @Mylifelovingit5 күн бұрын

  Wow, thanks. You make it look so simple. That is where experience counts

• 
  @JamesTheForester5 күн бұрын

  Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the great feedback :-)

• 
  @ChicoTheArborist6 күн бұрын

  The arborist flip line is an essential tool for tree climbers! It provides excellent support and stability while ascending or positioning yourself in the tree. The flip line’s durable construction ensures it can handle tough conditions, and its adjustability allows for quick and secure attachment around the trunk. It's a must-have for any arborist looking to enhance their safety and efficiency in the field. Highly recommend incorporating a quality flip line into your climbing gear. Keep climbing, keep growing, and keep shining bright, my friends! 🌳✨

• 
  @JamesTheForester5 күн бұрын

  All great comments and good advice. 👍

• 
  @wayneberry87038 күн бұрын

  Great video, mate. Very well described with the difference between the two chains. I have only ever used full chisel, but tonight I have ordered a semi chisel chain because I’m cutting some hard dirty wood.

• 
  @JamesTheForester7 күн бұрын

  Glad it was helpful! You should find you need to stop to sharpen a lot less. 👍

• 
  @3ndt1m3s9 күн бұрын

  thanks for the tip!

• 
  @JamesTheForester9 күн бұрын

  No problem! 🙂

• 
  @toporkata521810 күн бұрын

  🪓

• 
  @keithpayne894312 күн бұрын

  Great video. Thanks

• 
  @JamesTheForester11 күн бұрын

  Glad you liked it! Thanks 😊

• 
  @tomedmondson523613 күн бұрын

  Great.

• 
  @JamesTheForester11 күн бұрын

  Thank you! 😊

• 
  @davidfenton391015 күн бұрын

  Hi Thank you very much for setting up decent close ups that showed aspects of full and semi chisel side by side, in focus while you moved them together - that was a neat taking advantage of video medium. Also thanks for not bombarding me with music and audio visual gimmicks to artificially grab attention. I've only used semi chisel and am happy with it but I might try one loop of full chisel perhaps in a full skip as am only running a 55cc chainsaw. Thanks again Sincerely d

• 
  @JamesTheForester15 күн бұрын

  Hi David. Many thanks for that fantastic feedback it is much appreciated. A 55cc saw is quite powerful. I think you should be able to pull a full chisel no problems as long as it is kept Sharp.

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  @davidfenton391015 күн бұрын

  hi @@JamesTheForester In time might try a loop or 2. Perhaps a full skip and a full comp just to see how they go for me. I Use a Stihl FGuide #2, After trying the factory grind I will probably set up for a 30 deg top plate but with 10 deg compound for slightly stronger point. This will also change the 30 top plate to about 27.5 and give just a tiny bit more strength to the point. Thank you very much for your content. I will watch some more in the future. Cheers d

• 
  @Nonothingnun21 күн бұрын

  Nice video! I’m just going to leave mine broken maybe the choke isn’t such a bad kill switch lol

• 
  @JamesTheForester21 күн бұрын

  I have to be honest, when this first happened I didn't have time to pin down the fault because I was working, that is the same approach I used for a few days. Thanks for the comment!

• 
  @Bluebird-farm22 күн бұрын

  Thank you!!!

• 
  @JamesTheForester22 күн бұрын

  You're welcome! Thanks 😊

• 
  @maN-tx5yq24 күн бұрын

  Is oregon advance cut chain good for a stihl ms 462? I found it cheap ( 25 euros)

• 
  @JamesTheForester23 күн бұрын

  Oregon chains are good quality. I often use bars made by them. If the chain pitch is the same as the chain you currently using, and drive link width is the same as the bar and the number of drive links is the same then it should be fine.

• 
  @yogibeer931924 күн бұрын

  You are smarter than the average bear! 👍🏼 A tornado cut through my property last week and I’m gonna be doing a lot of cutting and I’ll remember this! Thanks

• 
  @JamesTheForester24 күн бұрын

  Fantastic feedback 😀 thank you. Good luck with your task. Stay safe Boo Boo!🙏

• 
  @yogibeer931924 күн бұрын

  @@JamesTheForester😂👍🏼

• 
  @michaelteti514826 күн бұрын

  Wish you did this on a 271 it is completely different. But thanks anyway.

• 
  @JamesTheForester25 күн бұрын

  No problem! 271s are great saws.

• 
  @Fogyt12127 күн бұрын

  I'm running a Dolmar clone. 58cc, 40 and 60cm bar, both have full chisel round filed, the longer has redneck skiptooth. Every third cutter I removed with the bench grinder. I like running full chisel chain, because it cuts so fast and I really want to be done with the job. 95% of my work is bucking firewood, though.

• 
  @JamesTheForester27 күн бұрын

  Yes. On clean wood with a powerful saw that'll produce some monster chip lengths. Need a big motor to run a skip tooth!

• 
  @Fogyt12126 күн бұрын

  @@JamesTheForester How come you need a more powerful motor? The depth gauges are at the same height, there's just a third fewer teeth in the cut.

• 
  @JamesTheForester26 күн бұрын

  Each tooth has to pull through the wood longer before breaking out the chip. It doesn't have the tooth behind it to take over the heavy lifting the way it did before it was turned into a skip chain.

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  @Fogyt12126 күн бұрын

  @@JamesTheForester I haven't noticed a difference in the chip size or length. Skip is slower cutting, though it doesn't bog down the saw on big wood.

• 
  @JamesTheForester26 күн бұрын

  Sorry. I wasn't very clear before. A skip change should actually be faster so you can run it with a smaller equivalent motor. But to get the best out of it run it with a powerful motor.

• 
  @holleyman1970Ай бұрын

  I have a cheap Amazon borescope that I use. I do pull the plug and check the cylinder bore for scoring or aluminum transfer. A Meteor piston is cheap, a good jug is expensive compared to the cost of the saw. I will still consider a good shape saw that needs a piston if I can get it cheap.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  That is an excellent idea and a great tip. Cheers for the input. 👌

• 
  @EmergencyChannelАй бұрын

  Just buy new, it will pay for it's self in 1 job.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  That's true and good advice.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  I'm pinning this version of a reply I made to a comment - which makes clear the thinking behind this video. Buying a car I remove road wheels to check brake condition as they are a good indicator of maintenance standards. I will also get underneath and check the exhaust along to the manifold, and do a paper test to check for manifold cracks, and so on. If I can get at it to inspect I will. I don’t just start it up and check it looks pretty. I see no need to inspect the pistons in a road car as modern engines tend go into limp mode before engine damage can occur, plus they are 4 stroke not 2 stroke so not subject to running at 12,000 rpm with tank of fuel to which an amateur (or wannabe professional) has either added no oil or added the wrong amount - either will cook the engine. A cooked engine can start and seem fine when it’s cold - but run and work it for ten minutes till it gets hot and expands then you will see it seize up. It’s common to see such saws up for sale on ebay with the standard -“I can’t start it/work out what’s wrong/don’t have time/don’t know anything about them/was given it by someone/bought it for one job/don’t need it now/found it in my dad’s garage” etc. excuses. I buy, sell and swap saws with other professional users on a regular basis, and this is how we check them. You are literally taught to do this on maintenance courses. They are basic, non-destructive and quick checks. A seller not allowing these checks is a huge red flag. If seller won’t let us do that inspection, then we know the saw is cooked, and they know it too. That’s why you check the piston.

• 
  @ChrisTaylor-xv2tcАй бұрын

  So you expect a seller to allow a complete stranger to dismantle their chainsaw? Just look at the saw & general condition - ask seller not to start it before you arrive - then start it from cold & see if it runs without bogging or stalling. All good buy it - not good - walk away

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Well, it's not 'dismantling'. It's nothing more than basic disassembly you should know how to do as part of maintenance. Nothing in video should take a competent user more than 60 seconds to complete. I've done it numerous times looking at used saws. So, in answer to your question - yes, I expect them to let me do it because, if they don't then I'll assume they either a)don't know enough about saws to understand that it will be easily reassembled afterwards with no harm done and so probably don't know enough to have looked after the saw properly in the first place, or b) have something to hide.

• 
  @ChrisTaylor-xv2tcАй бұрын

  @@JamesTheForester So if you go to look at a used car - do you take the wheels off? How about taking the cylinder head off or exhaust manifold to check the pistons? If anybody tried that on a saw I was selling I'd refuse - that is abnormal behaviour. If you know about saws you can judge it's worth without taking the exhaust off or the carb.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  ​@@ChrisTaylor-xv2tc You begin your reply with 'So', although I am at a loss to understand how you think your conclusions logically follow? But I'm happy to reply - so in answer to your questions - yes, buying a car I remove road wheels to check brake condition as they are a good indicator of maintenance standards. I will also get underneath and check the exhaust along to the manifold, and do a paper test to check for manifold cracks, and so on. If I can get at it to inspect I will. I don’t just start it up and check it looks pretty. Neither do I see any need to inspect the pistons in a road car as modern engines tend go into limp mode before engine damage can occur, plus they are 4 stroke not 2 stroke so not subject to running at 12,000 rpm with tank of fuel to which an amateur (or wannabe professional) has either added no oil or added the wrong amount - either will cook the engine. A cooked engine can start and seem fine when it’s cold - but run and work it for ten minutes till it gets hot and expands then you will see it seize up. It’s common to see such saws up for sale on ebay with the standard -“I can’t start it/work out what’s wrong/don’t have time/don’t know anything about them/was given it by someone/bought it for one job/don’t need it now/found it in my dad’s garage” etc. excuses. I buy, sell and swap saws with other professional users on a regular basis, and this is how we check them. You are literally taught to do this on maintenance courses. They are basic, non-destructive and quick to do. A seller not allowing these checks is a huge red flag. If seller won’t let us do that inspection, then we know the saw is cooked, and they know it too. That’s why you check the piston.

• 
  @holleyman1970Ай бұрын

  @@ChrisTaylor-xv2tc I bring a code reader, I take the car for a test drive and I do indeed request to pull the tires off to look at the running gear on a used car. There is no cost to the seller and if any of these are a hard "no" then I won't buy the car either. The number of saws I have looked at that have been accidentally "straight gassed only once" that people try to slog off on some unsuspecting stooge on Facebook Market place is mind blowing. No lookie, no sale.

• 
  @scottschaeffer8920Ай бұрын

  I didn’t know this-thanks!

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  You're welcome 😊

• 
  @patrickvennard838Ай бұрын

  I like to run the saw and tilt them from side to side to make sure the chain does not spin. So many people are trying to sell saws at a high price it's not worth it if you have to do much for them. If you can afford it buy a new one.

• 
  @BB-bq1xdАй бұрын

  Very helpful information thank you 🤙🏻

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Glad it was helpful!

• 
  @russelltate3703Ай бұрын

  Great information and examples. Thanks for sharing exactly and quickly what we needed to know.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  My pleasure! Thank you 😊

• 
  @tullyriverquailАй бұрын

  My chain cannot be tightened to remove enough slack to be used. I have the bar tightening screw fully forward, but it's still too slack. I can only think my drive sprocket has worn beyond use. I wish it was just the lost bumper. Any suggestions?

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  It may be a worn bar, worn nose sprocketorn wogn bar guide rails or chain wear. The drive links can wear and the pins loosen. Sprocket wear has to be really really bad to cause that. I have another video called the hidden chain saw killer which explains it. It could be the wrong size part too; or a chain with an extra link which can happen in error.

• 
  @tullyriverquailАй бұрын

  @JamesTheForester thank you. As I may have mentioned, my neighbor buddy was moving to NC so he put 2 of these out on the curb. I was going to take them both but was walking a dog and couldn't wrangle carrying two and manage the Dane. He mentioned the one I took may have needed a new drive sproket or clutch. I have to clean the oil siphon tube (I have a new gasket kit) so when I take'er apart, I will more closely review the bar and driver gear. I've used it over the past two years but noticed it getting just too sloppy for safety... I guess it's time to bench test the lil workhorse. I have to fix the on/off kill switch (or replace it with a toggle). I'd like to get a Pico bar and use it for chainsaw art detail. My Echo Tmbrewolf with a 28" bar and proper chain and a slab jig has help slab a huge sycamore in 8, 10 & 12' X 24" slabs I've been euro drying for 3 years now... ready to make some table tops! But it's nice to have that little stihl for yard work along the Tully River

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Very best of luck!

• 
  @mattwaters6987Ай бұрын

  Really good to know about this. Thanks. 👍

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Glad it was helpful! Thanks 😊

• 
  @tobytsosie9202Ай бұрын

  WOW!! thank you for that very valuable information, i never realized the effects of the heat from the chain🤙🤙

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  You're welcome 😊

• 
  @wlodziejАй бұрын

  Its in manual.

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  @patterdalezipsuzililАй бұрын

  Change chains over regular there cheap enough keep your tention up why cutting

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  True !

• 
  @turb0nasty887Ай бұрын

  Seems very few people know how to put a bar and chain on. You're not one of them. Lol Hopefully since you've released this video you've educated yourself a little better on how to put a bar and chain on. Those nylon guides aren't holding your chain on. It's coming off because you're clearly not putting it on right and Youre clearly not tensioning the chain correctly. Ask an expert to show you or simply read the manual. The info is out there.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  And yet a) it isn't mentioned in the owners manual at all, but b) it is listed as having precisely that function in both the parts and workshop manuals ( the latter of which I doubt you have access to) and c) Stihl Germany literally made their own video illustrating exactly the same point ... but thanks for 'educating' me, and for the comment- every comment drives more users to my channel. 👍

• 
  @bobbyhutto1253Ай бұрын

  I couldn't find soda crystals so I used Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda. It worked great! I wish more chain sawers would see this video.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Great tip!

• 
  @allen4758Ай бұрын

  Im a 25 year machinest who deals with measuring steal all day and I'll also admit, i never thought about this when it comes to a chainsaw,, awesome tip !

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  😊 glad it helped!

• 
  @aulupinarАй бұрын

  Thanks a lot mate. 👍

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  No problem 👍

• 
  @willanderson257Ай бұрын

  Thank you This video was very informative for me.

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  You're welcome 😊

• 
  @JohnJohn-wr7lgАй бұрын

  Excellent instruction. Thanks

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Glad it was helpful! 😊👍

• 
  @CScav243Ай бұрын

  James, Would my 036 PRO be similar to this.? I need to change mine both dont think I can do it. I break more than I fix

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  That's a great saw and well worth keeping running. These saws are difficult to damage when replacing parts. I imagine it is similar to the carb model in my video. I would download a parts diagram and use it to gradually work your way in. Take lots of photos take your time and enjoy it. Above all make sure the fuel line connection are secure with no fuel or air leaks 👍👍

• 
  @CScav243Ай бұрын

  ⁠thanks James. I called STIHL today , gave them my serial number, but my saw was built in year 2000 and they don’t keep records back that far. They did give me the part number so I’ll give it a try. Thanks for the reply. Chris

• 
  @CScav243Ай бұрын

  @@JamesTheForester Hey James...I thought I would reach out to you one more time. So, my 036 Pro...I dug in, step by step, taking pictures along the way. Don't you know my carb would not fit past the handle to come off. I looked real and carefully push the new fuel line under the carb. Getting the tank grommet to line up was challenging but I did it. Proud to say and you were my inspiration. Thank you so much

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  I'm proud of you! Well done for sticking at it and keeping these fantastic older saws going. 👍👍

• 
  @MasterHomebrewАй бұрын

  Now I know what winch NOT to buy. I think I'll stick to my 12v winch 12,000 lb

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  We do have 12v winches as well but might find it difficult to carry a 12 volt battery to where we do our tree work. 😊

• 
  @Reno-pz3ktАй бұрын

  This is extremely good information,I experience this the other day, did not know what it was...thank you mate

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  No problem 👍

• 
  @yilin-liАй бұрын

  in this machine, what are the plastic and which are metal?

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Generally white, black and orange are plastic. 👍

• 
  @yilin-liАй бұрын

  @@JamesTheForester so the part used to hold the entire machine is also plastic?

• 
  @JamesTheForesterАй бұрын

  Generally the engine housing is metal and the Plastic parts bolt on to that.

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  @patrickscahillii93652 ай бұрын

  OUTSTANDING, THAT WAS A REVELATION FOR ME. THANKS FOR SHARING

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  Very welcome 😀

• 
  @AlfioS2 ай бұрын

  @jamestheforester Have you tried the PCW4000?

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  No I haven't but I imagine its pretty powerful!

• 
  @suziehartwright2 ай бұрын

  Thanks! 😉 👍

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  Welcome!

• 
  @maxfaubus31162 ай бұрын

  Thanks!

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  No problem!

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  @firstdayonline2 ай бұрын

  Very good! And a big thank you! For me is totaly true!

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  You're very welcome 🙂

• 
  @WatzaMataU.2 ай бұрын

  Excellent suggestion. Never thought of this before and I've been cutting for years, feeding our outdoor wood furnace. Thanks for the tip.

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  Glad to help ☺

• 
  @TheCdavis4112 ай бұрын

  Brother you just leveled up my game and about 30,000 other people as well! Thanks for this.

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  Glad I could help! 😊👍

• 
  @user-ek8qt2qf1z2 ай бұрын

  Thank you sir!

• 
  @JamesTheForester2 ай бұрын

  You are welcome! Thanks 😊