My goal is to bring Pay-It-Forward videos about tidbits I learned about specific vehicles/bikes/etc., trails driven/ridden, projects accomplished, etc. as well as provide info on mods/custom fab projects I've undertaken. I hope the specific trail info will be useful for other riders--mainly with assisting informed decisions on type of trail/OHV area--info can be used for trip planning. Please hit me up if you would like additional info on any of the videos I've uploaded. Additionally, I've made videos of some of my custom projects I've done to get more out of the adventure equipment I use (plus some other odds and ends projects around the house)...maybe someone out there will find the project info helpful/thought provoking.
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28 psi ? That is a Rough Gravel Road pressure , getting towards Sand pressure .
Where to start... optimal tire pressure(s) depends on lots of factors (i.e., tire side wall-stiffness and height, tire size, vehicle weight, terrain, air temps, etc.). My 28 psi was for the specific tire I was talking about...and the info was to info people that 28 psi on the highway is perfectly fine with these tires. Have you every heard of the 4 psi rule of thumb for tires?? And for that type of off road tire, an excellent sand tire pressure starting point is 18-20 psi...then lower if sand is super soft. Don't take my word for it...just take a few seconds and google it. I'm betting that you will quickly find that your 28 psi advice is in a very small minority of people that would agree. Have a nice one...
Have you ever gotten the "exhaust system regenartion in process continue driving" I got that message twice on my last trip.
No, I cannot say that I have...and I cannot imagine that I wouldn't have noticed if it did pop-up. I use an aftermarket gauge setup to monitor my REGEN status and state (% and if active)....so, if I'm getting close to a REGEN cycle I'll take a more freeway route (to my destination) to allow the REGEN to happen under best driving conditions. I also (when driving conditions support) do one last trick once the soot level drops (burns off) to 25%...I come to a stop and do a full throttle accel (60+ ish) to get high exhaust gas velocity & slightly higher heat for the last portion of the REGEN cycle.
I have I just drove on hwy for like 15 min 70 mph
Everytime I go on an off road trip, I fill up my def tank and never have any issues.
👍👍
Thanks! Super nice. Anything ideas for foot pegs? :)
Thank you for the kind feedback... regarding foot pegs... are you talking vibrations in the foot pegs??? If so, then there really aren't many viable options IMHO....and none I'd do/use for an off-road motorcycle. Your options are to isolate the foot-pegs from the frame and/or isolate your boots/shoes/feet from the foot-pegs. Either solution, to work correctly, will make for a very mussy feeling where your feet contact the bike.... not something I'd like to be riding with/feeling when trying to control/feel the bike via the contact points...foot-pegs being a main one. Just my two cents..
also, what is the advantage of heavier springs?
See my first reply to your first comment/question. In short, I personally wouldn't call different stiffness springs being an advantage or disadvantage over lighter springs. All other tuning variables being equal (weights, idle speed, free-play, etc.)... heavier/stiffer springs just delay the initial and full clutch engagement to higher engine RPMs. A heavier spring setup will have a larger engagement RPM range (from initial drag to full engagement)...thus giving you the ability to use throttle control to maintain the clutch in a constant slip state (partial engagement). The lightest possible (correctly tuned setup) will make the clutch engagement happen from initial drag to full lock over a much narrower RPM range. One last note, a heavier spring setup will also cause you to lose a lot of engine braking -- clutch will disengage in the mid RPM range -- it will coast a lot more than with lighter springs. Hope this answers your question...
Great video, thanks! What do you think would be the best spring setup for slow speed wheelies/pivot turns. Also slow speed techniques like figure 8's at full lock using manual clutch. Heavy springs or light? Hope this makes sense. Thanks again :)
First off, thank you for the kind feedback. To answer your question...I'd first say that it depends on how you ride (RPM range you like)/use the clutch. The auto clutch engagement function (and disengagement) is based on three variables... Clutch weights mass, spring stiffness, and engine RPM. The first thing to do is to make sure you have the engine idle RPM set where you want it (engine full opr temp). A higher idle RPM requires stiffer springs and/or lighter weights. Seeing that the only two things you can change easily, idle RPM and springs (kit comes with different springs)...lets focus on spring stiffness...seeing that idle speed/RPM is set where you like it. So, if you want the clutch to engage just off idle and disengage just above idle (when coasting to a stop), then you want to go with the lightest/softest springs that DO NOT generate too much clutch drag at idle speed (too light of spring stiffness will result in your free-play being partially used up due to the weights overpowering the soft springs and thus causing the auto clutch pack to partially expand (eating into your free-play measurement). Note: if you go too soft on the springs for the weights you have installed then to get the clutch to not drag at idle you will have to increase the clutch spacing and thus will end up having a slipping clutch even at full engagement. If this happens you will have to go with stiffer springs (and/or go with lighter weights--which I wouldn't do--I'd focus on getting the correct stiffness springs installed--correct being the clutch engages/disengages more inline with how you would manually be doing it). Hope this info helps...
I have my YZ450f Rekluse 4.0 set up per the instructions to begin engaging at idle. It feels 100% like a standard clutch, but it never stalls and never flames out and never slips and never freewheels.
That is awesome your recommended setup works how you want it to... I still cannot believe how good my 250 recommended setup worked compared to the recommended 500 setup...that sucked so bad I wanted to put the Rekluse kit in the trash!!
Have you considered lowering the suspension? Modern bikes are way too tall.
Not only have I considered it...I've actually done it on 3 of my bikes....and I still cannot touch!!! 🤣🤣
Just got my first traeger and searched high and low for this because the box design is not smart. Thank you. If you have a video on how yoi made this, I would appreciate it
Thank you for the kind feedback. Regarding your request...yes, I can make another video explaining (better) what & how I did the mod. I'll post an unlisted video and will put the link in a new reply to your posted comment. It might be a few weeks until I can get this done...look for something before the Jul 4th holiday. Have a nice one...
@SteveSmith-wl8yq awesome. I see the post is 3 years old but I said "hey, try it". I'll subscribed to be sure not to miss it
@@multipleman189 Here is a quick video I made explaining the mod a little more...let me know if you need any more/additional info. kzread.info/dash/bejne/dpuulq6DZ8yuYJc.html
That's awesome, thanks for sharing
Thank you for the kind feedback.... The mod has worked out great!! I can actually use my mirrors on road and don't ever notice them (tucked away) off road.
So its been 4 years since.. Does the cork not get ate up from vibration of the shot against it for many years???
It's been installed for over 9 yrs in my 2014 300 xcw (300+ hrs)...and no, still working/holding up.
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq F king love these real life examples that been tested.. Thanks man.. AWESOME. im in!!! Also thanks for responding. Truly helps a ton of us! Im a newbie .. so thanks!!!!! God Bless! 🙂🙂🙂
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Subscribing.. thank you. Love folks helping others out
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq an 300 hrs at say 50 mph be like 15,000 miles.. plus your rattling the hell out of it on dirt.. ok im totally sold.
@@bwnco thank you for the kind feedback ... First time KZread helped me was 2007 ... decided then to pay things forward-information (if I can). Have a nice one...
I guess they geared them lower than the XCRW because they say the XCRW will do 123mph
Yes, they didn't install 6th gear even though the trans is the xcw version ... So it is easy to make it a 6 speed if you buy the OEM parts and split the case. The bike runs out of gearing well before running out of power. My same year and model 250 does just over 100 mph...but it has a 6th gear.
My bone stock 2005 honda crf450r does right at 90mph.
First off, a big thank you for not stating that your completely stock bike does 130 mph...you would be surprised how my people make such claims. I owned a 07 CRF450 for my Baja pre-run bike..in mostly stock trim, but with slight gearing change...it could hit just over 100 mph...it took a bit, but it would hit it. My 1983 XR500R did right at the same top speed as your 2008 Honda. Even my 2002 stock CR250 would hit in the upper 80s stock. However, KTM really screwed up the XC models by not putting in 6th gear (the newer XCs have sixth in them). The bike (450XC-F), in stock form, has enough power to pull right at 100 mph...but gearing kills it...5th is just too short of a gear (IMHO)! And the 6th gear they didn't install comes out of the EXC models...so 5th to 6th is a street (dual sport) jump...making it suck for dirt (too big of a gap)...so I never got around to installing 6th.
Oh hell it has a flux capacitor!
I wish!! Lol...
Your tires are rated to 75 mph. Slow down. Nice upgrades though.
Thank you for the kind feedback ... But, do you really believe you know "exactly" what tires I have on my trailer? I think you might try asking before you state stuff that you do not know, first hand, as fact!!
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct about not knowing what tires you have. I don’t believe a tire for a utility trailer has a speed rating above 75 mph. Although I could be wrong. As a professional driver I believe driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you.
@@lawrence7065 Since you felt it important enough to pass along unsolicited information/advice/your stance…it is only fair that any comments from you that can be validated as incorrect/uninformed/etc. should be addressed. First, speed ratings for tires...more specific…trailer tires (i.e., utility trailers). A person can quickly, and easily, find trailer tires with a M-Speed Rating…it only takes about 60 seconds. A M rated trailer tire (or any M tire) has a top speed of 81 MPH, at MAX LOAD. So, as you move below MAX LOAD the actual safe Max Speed increases (physics at play). How much is debatable, but it’s not going to be an insignificant amount (IMHO)-it is a math/physics thing…not an opinion thing. So, driving 10-20% over 75 MPH with a 40% loaded utility trailer (tires only using 35% of their max load rating), with at least M rated tires, is not really adding any measurable increase in risk due to tire rotational speed failure. For you second concern. Your statement that you are a professional driver is an important input; however, your comment after that is without a solid foundation…let’s call it a fact-less based discussion/statement. For you statement to be true, “driving at those speeds is dangerous to you and the drivers around you”, requires a lot…and I mean a lot of additional data to be entered into the equation. For example, driving in Utah on I-15, the posted speed limited (down south) is 80 MPH. So, if the majority of traffic is going…let’s say… 85 MPH… it is actually safer for myself and drivers around me if I travel at…or at least pretty close to…the pace of the surrounding traffic (this all assumes that I have a proper rated tow vehicle towing a proper rated trailer with proper rated tires and with environmental conditions supporting 85 MPH as a safe speed, and I maintain a proper safe space/gap between my vehicle and any vehicle directly in front of my vehicle, etc./etc./etc.. Additionally, if driving at a faster speed on a completely empty road --- not passing anyone and no one passing me…and no traffic anywhere near me for at least a tenth of a mile or more…then how is driving at those speeds (as you state) a risk to the traffic around me when there is not any traffic around me?...just a single car now and then…??? You seem to make a lot of fact-less based assumptions on things you have no first-hand knowledge about. And then you take it one step further by passing along “your” stance on how “other” people should behave. You know nothing about me…for all you know my skill as a driver is triple yours and thus you driving at 75 MPH is more unsafe to yourself and others than me driving at 85 MPH. The speed at which you are traveling is only one piece out of many pieces that statistically define/determine risk level. Thank you for your comments and feedback…
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq you are correct on tire speeds. Thanks for educating me. As far as safety goes. My opinion is over 65 mph it becomes unsafe. That’s how the state of Nevada feels as well. Speed limit for tow behind trailers is 65MPH in the state of Nevada. But overalls I’ll give you the WIN.
@@lawrence7065 I'm not looking for any type of Win...you commented on your opinion - with info...I replied with comments on my opinion - with info...it is more of an agree to disagree vs a Win/Lose thing. And a tow-behind safe speed of 65 mph also has average driver skills add into the equation...as are almost all max speed limits (road, avg driver skill, etc.). I'll take a bunch of professional drivers speeding all around me vs a bunch of too safe-scared drivers doing 20 mph under the speed limit and camping in the fast-lane! But, I'm more of a statistics type decision person... agreeing to disagree... Thank you for your comments and feedback... Have a nice one...
Not “one” thing laeds to a solution For anything on a jeep..
Don't let perfection get in the way of good enough...or at least it is better than it was!!
Steve Smith, this entire video and thread was the best information on the Rekluse clutch set up and adjustment on the entire net. Great job and super helpful to so many people! Hope you are still ripping on your bikes, thanks for all your information! I read every single comment and your follow-up's and you stayed with every person and provided spot on information. Great job.
Thank you for your too kind feedback and comments... If it only helped one person it would still be worth it. Yep ... Still riding ... However, I do have a new 2024 KTM 300 XC that I've owned for 3 months and have yet to ride it!!! Life getting in the way of life .... Lol....
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Awesome news about the 24 XC. I have the 24 300 XCW. I just went through the entire spring issue with my bike. Slavens said six steel springs for this particular bike, didn't work at all. Tried three steel and three silver, almost worked. Called Rekluse and they said six red springs. I installed those and now it seems great, although I still need to ride and verify and that will be done today. I hope you get out soon on your new bike!.BTW, your information sure helped me big time, thank you!
@@onthethrottle7104 Nice!! Not sure if you picked up on the importance of having your idle set where you like it and the engine at temp before checking/adjusting the springs & Freeplay. I didn't cover that adequate enough in my video. Hoping to ride my 24 300 XC within the week....but our temps are hitting right at 100 degrees...so it will be a shorter morning only ride! Which Rekluse kit did you go with?
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Went for a ride today and everything was perfect! With six red springs engine brake holds all the way down to idle, and when taking off it locks up right away, as soon as you touch the throttle it's locked up. I broke it in per Rekluse and then took it up some nice hills and it's adjusted perfectly. Even after running the engine for at least 45 minutes everything works perfectly and no adjustments needed. With the idle set at good spot, the freeplay is perfect...it's just all working perfect. My left hand rear brake is also working perfectly. Going riding tomorrow as well but this time I'm going into a real gnarly area I'm used to and I'm excited to give this new system a test. I went with the Radius X, 4.0- it's the same one Slavens said to go with on the new XC and XCW's. The clutch pulls really easy and nice compared to a few buddies I ride with that have the 3.0, their clutch pull is kind of hard. They run 2020 XCW TPI bikes, so it's really the same clutch system for the most part. I will report back after tomorrows ride! Hope you can get out and ride as well. Thanks again!
@@onthethrottle7104 Thank you for the update and clutch model info... Sounds like you have it dialed in nicely.
Chefs kiss
Thank you for the kind feedback... First time for that approach... lol...
good thinking, not much extra room for storage in these things, I will have to look into this idea, in between all my other projects...lol
Thank you for your kind feedback. Yes, I agree, too many projects...I thought I could have most mods done to my Jeep within 18 months...well I'm double that time and still have a few remaining to accomplish (this doesn't include news ones selected over the past yr...just the ones that have been on the books for at least 2 yrs!)... lol...
Nice Video! Hi again Steve. I have a question for you. I have a factory JL Rubicon (no Lift). I am looking for a new ball joint the one which connects the Drag Link bar to the Pitman arm. My problem is that I live in Madrid, Spain and here its kind o difficult to find spare parts. I am thinking to order it from USA. Could anybody recommend me a good spare ball joint for me. Or may me the whole drag link, Tie rod pack :D Thanks!!
Thank you for the kind feedback. To answer your question "recommend a good ball joint for pitman arm end"...requires to know more about how you use your jeep, what tire size you are running, how long you plan to keep your jeep, etc.. There are many good enough ball joint manufactures you can choose from...too many to list. OEM is good enough unless you have already worn out the factory one (but I'd need to know how many miles on it). A smart move would be to just upgrade to heavy duty, but if you do not plan on keeping your Jeep and/or do not really drive off-road with it then that upgraded is not worth the extra expense(s) IMHO. But, if you are just looking for piece of mind then going with HD upgrade might be worth the investment/piece of mind. The ball-joints I went with on my knuckles are the Teraflex Dana 30/44 HD Ball Joint Kit...I'm not sure if they make a kit for the factory drag link, but they do sell upgraded drag links with upgraded ball joints. I think the market mostly supports all new HD drag links or just OEM ... people tend to do one or the other if replacing ball joints...because I really do not see many upgrade options for the part you inquired about. I'd try the following three websites to see if you can find what you are looking for...note...I think if you find the part it most likely is of good enough quality...these sites tend to drop/stop carrying crappy products (IMHO). Sorry I could not be more help. Feel free to ping me again if you do not find what you are looking for. teraflex.com/ www.northridge4x4.com/ www.quadratec.com/ Or give this site a try...tons of aftermarket parts and they sell replacement OEM drag link pitman arm ball joint option.... but they are not serious off-road focused like the three sites above. www.rockauto.com Hope this info helps...
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq First of all thanks a lot for you nice answer and sorry for my bad English. Here you have a simple video for you to see the Wrangler: kzread.info/dash/bejne/qKqOtbSmp6zKfJc.html It has 33 tires and all basically stock. I do something like 90% road and 10% off road when I go to the mountains near Madrid. I would like to know what it means a bigger investments going for the HD ball joints and bars. I plean to keep my jeep as much as possible I am very happy with it. It has the 4 in line Turbo charged gasoline engine and it feels really nice. My only problem is that after installing the new tires (Ko2) it wants to drive a little bit to the right by itself. The well is center and the toe is correct, but I think oneof the problems is some game in the ball joint which connect the pitman arm with the bar. Thanks!!!
@@samsara2024 Nice looking Jeep! We do not have very many Yellow Wranglers here in the USA. Ok, a few pieces of additional info and an answer to your investment question. First your investment question. It costs a lot more money to purchase heavy duty parts and unless you are using your Jeep in a way that actually puts the heavy duty parts to actual work then you are better off just buying OEM (or OEM like) parts for a lot less money….because they should meet your needs good enough. I do have a follow up question: Do you know for certain that your pitman arm drag link ball joint is actually worn/bad?? If so, how was it verified as being bad?? Now to your steering pulling to one side. Here are some bullets on my thoughts: - The steering wheel being centered, or not centered, shouldn’t be the cause for any pulling to one side. - The pitman arm drag link ball joint being bad should be the cause for any pulling to “only” one side. It would cause more a sloppy feeling with the steering…i.e., hard to keep the Jeep driving straight on the highway/freeway (same type roads). - A pull to one side is usually caused by several different possible factors o Tire pressure differences (not small) between left and right side front tires o Caster differences between left and right side of front axle o Camber differences between left and right side of front axle o Thrust angle of rear axle and/or track misalignment between front and rear axles Also, here are a few thoughts on why the problem surfaced once you put on the bigger tires. There are several reasons, but the core one being that your OEM tires masked the problem and the new tires actually highlight the problem. Different tires (models, brands, etc.) have different sensitivities to vehicle alignments/setups/etc… to include road conditions… So, the new tires most likely are not the reason for the issue…they are just making the issue a lot more noticeable. I hope this info helps out some…
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Hello! I will try to answer all the questions :) 1) new tires are the Ko2 all terrain 33 inches. 2) pressure is ok in all of them 3) I measured caster and its around 6 degrees in both sides but I can be wrong. (I have factory arms, so I can not change caster) 4) I have Toe in more less 0.8 degrees. 5) Camber I dint measure but I dont know how camber can change. Maybe a blend axle? 6) My steering wheel is center. I mean I hold the steering wheel by hand and the car goes perfectly straight. But if I let it go it star a soft turn to the tight most of the times. 7) I went under the car and I asked my wife to make short left and right movements with the steering wheel. I then was touching and the ball joints and I was feeling a "clack" in the ball joint connecting the pitman. I was clacking when when the wheels were changing from left to right. My feeling to be honest is that the car is very very sensible to the change of slope of the road. Not the forward slope, but the lateral slope. Dont know very good how to explain it :) 8) and by the way do you have an email or something to have a better way of communication that youtube comments list? :D
@@samsara2024 First off, I clearly and easily understood all your answers/info. Yes, I can be reached at ([email protected]).... also, my jeep had the exact same issue! I have adjustable control arms and thus was able to add a slight bit more caster to the left side and that corrected the issue completely. Here's some additional info: Question: do you feel that the steering wheel doesn't want to be centered when you let go of it?? Meaning, do you feel you have resistance/slight pressure to hold the steering wheel centered when driving straight? - Camber really will not change unless the ball joints wear...however, this doesn't mean that the camber was totally good from the factory...they only correct camber if it is way out and it is usually correct by using off-set ball joints (upper). Yes, a bent axle housing can change camber, but I seriously doubt that that is the case in your situation. - If it was my Jeep I'd have the toe set to ZERO... or as close as possible to zero. Your Jeep should steering/track a lot nicer/better with that setting (I set all of my road vehicles to Zero Toe). - Regarding the crown on roads...the best road to test steering pull is on a 4 lane (or more) highway...or find a section of road that has very little crown...but you really need to be at higher speeds to feel/see the pull to one side.
Love that area, so much good riding up there, if you know where to find it. im sure Dennis does.I plan on doing some more riding up there this summer. Have spent a fair amount of time up there this year already.
I had a really good time on that ride (actually over a few days)...but unfortunately I've one ridden that area once...the time with Dennis. I keep planning to head back there, but I end up not going due to having to ride solo (schedules not syncing up). Maybe this will be the yr I actually make it back there! Have a nice one and thank you for sharing...
I am having the same problem with ours. put the mopar lift, track bars and 35" tires, it drives good at lower speeds and city driving but, highway driving is a little spooky, my wife doesn't want to drive it. Im going to take it back and see what they did for alignment, I am also going to try your mod. Is it 1.5" center hole to center hole? what did you set the castor at? I have seen some between 5-6*
I hope you get it good enough for your wife to enjoy driving it again...I know mine is amazingly good for being a Jeep with a lift and 37". I have learned several more important things since posting this video...info covered in the below bullets. - The measurement is 1.25" from center to center (you can most likely increase it to 1.5" -- but be careful to not have the sway-bar link come in contact with the rear axle housing during closest movement -- when sway-bar is end is perpendicular to ground) - I cannot remember what I set the caster at, but I'm thinking about 5 degrees. What I can say is that more caster makes steering inputs feel slow and less caster makes them feel quick (with Jeeps). I did end up putting a little more caster into the driver side due to the vehicle having a slight constant pull to the right -- the rest of the alignment was spot on (too include tire pressures)...and as a test I tried the slight increase of caster on one side and that fixed the problem completely. - Regarding Toe-in/out. I ZERO out ALL my vehicles to a ZERO TOE (no neg for pos toe). I find that ZERO toe makes my vehicles track a lot straighter with variations in road surface. It made an unbelievable difference/improvement for my Jeep Trackhawk and the wife's Charger Redeye (tires are 305 & 315 widths). - Last item (I hope I explain it well enough) ... and a very important one in my opinion. It is the steering stabilizer. Any resistance to steering movement caused by the steering stabilizer has to be overcome by all of the steering components before any steering input changes the direction of the front tires. To fully understand this effect try or imagine changing out your steering stabilizer to a solid steer bar -- your tires will not turn in any direction and not even the smallest amount ... however, as you turn the steering wheel steering components will start flexing and/or flex at their mount point(s)--having stored energy that is release as you relax the steering input. A too stiff of a steering stabilizer will generate too much resistance to movement and your steering components will flex some (and store energy) before the steering inputs changes the direction of the tires (and I'm talking the little inputs you make when driving on a highway/freeway) and then as you hold the steering input correction the stored energy will slowly release past the steering stabilizer resistance and you end up with a little more steering input that you thought you asked for...and you end up doing a steer left...wait...then steer right...wait...steer left again...etc... etc... IMHO this is mostly caused by the stored energy in your steering components caused by too much steering resistance caused by a too stiff steering dampener. If this is part of your steering issue (which I feel will be the case if an upgraded steering stabilizer is being used/installed), then I would seriously consider purchasing the FOX Factory Race Series 2.0 ATS Steering Stabilizer...because it has adjustable resistance and you can find the sweet spot of having just enough steering stabilizer resistance without causing too much flex/stored energy in the steering components. How I found a good setting with my FOX 2.0 dampener was to drive at freeway speeds and keeping backing out the stiffness of the dampener by two clicks each day I drove my Jeep. Then when I finally found that two clicks out didn't make it steer/track any better I went back in two clicks stiffer. I did this very same process on my 2019 RAM 2500 4x4 (used the FOX 2.0 dampener) and my truck steers that best it ever has. I hope this info helps out...let me know if you need any more follow-on stuff/info... I'm sure I'll get plenty of internet trolls telling me that I have my head up my A$$...but hey, that is price of admission for doing KZread video posts!! 🤣🤣
I just got a 16 ft ATC trailer. I have 2 rows of E track on the walls, and two rows on the floor for tie down. Up in the nose, I have a horizontal Track on the floor, tied into the frame so I can connect a winch to it if I need. Etrac makes a single tire motorcycle stop that clips on the Etrac. If you flip it backwards, it is a GREAT winch connect point, I think E trac is a better solution, there are a lot of accessories that you can hang stuff like tires, cabinets, etc. HOWEVER you did these things yourself, using your skills and brain which I think is WAY better. I am the fat old guy who can sit around making comments, YOU are the guy who is doing it!!! I definitely respect what you've done. I have kids your age probably, I would rather they be able to DO what you did, instead of BUY what I did!
Thank you for the feedback... your setup sounds very nice. I did consider E-trac, but opted not to use it for several key reasons (specific to what I was looking for and needing). Also, I just sold the trailer because I have to go to a 8.5x14...so all the mods will have to be redone! I'll re-look at E-trac as an option... have a nice one...
You should reach out to Jeff Slaven , he is an expert with tuning Recluse clutches. It doesn't cost anything to get the best advice. There is more to tuning them than just swapping springs.
Your comment(s) implies that you know everything you need to know after just reading the title or watching the video--meaning knowing what I did or did not do. I do deal with/contact Jeff's business! -- and he didn't have any detailed videos posted to help out people that did/do not know of Jeff (like a lot of overseas riders). But hey, I'm sure Jeff would rather people call is shop all day vs watch a video he posted! The "lol" thing is that you completely miss the point ... that swapping springs is the last step in the tuning process...because it is a FINE TUNING step. Rekluse (I'm spelling it correctly -- you did not) design engineers also agree with me because they include, at a minimum, 5 different settings for spring configurations. One last observation, why the crap would you even watch the video if you already believe the primary place to get info is from Jeff Slaven?? Strange... Thank you for your feedback, but I'm still going to stick with the video because there are more than a few people that have thanked me for the extra info...it made their use of a Rekluse clutch that much more enjoyable. ... and I'm betting I will see at least several more positive comments in the coming years.... so, it was all completely worth my time to pay something forward. Have a nice one... 😂😂
@SteveSmith-wl8yq your comment implies you're a pole smoker with an ego problem . I'm glad you don't ride on trails anywhere over here , you wouldn't make it out. Keep making videos for all your You Tube fans 🤣
@@Matthew-wn8oq lol... TAC....
We went with the TOYO AT3 35x11.50x17 for now, what tire carrier and attachments are you running that hold the jack and gas can?
Nice tires... I liked the Maxxis but I ended up going with Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP 37x12.50x17 shortly after. The Maxxis were to mud focused and I really do not need a mud tire. Also, I wanted to go with 37"s...and the MT BL EXPs seemed like a good risk to take...so far I love the tires. I was worried about them catching and throwing lots of rocks, but they actually do better than the Maxxis (almost no rock throws). Regarding your question(s). Here are the parts I purchased...but had to do custom mods to make it all work like I wanted. The Gas Jug has a custom mount that gets bolted to the High-Lift Jack. I use the Factor 55 locking winch mount bolts so it is not easy for someone to steal...but very easy for my to un-bolt when I need to use the jack. Teraflex Alpha HD Hinged Spare Tire Carrier and Adjustable Spare Tire Mount Kit (custom modifications) - needed this due to the heavy/upgraded spare Hi-Lift Jack 42" Cast & Steel Jack - HL-424 & wide BASE stand - went with 42 vs 48 to keep the jack no higher than the roof line AUXMART High Lift Jack Mount Rear Off-Road Jack Mounting Bracket (custom modifications) - just a simple design off of amz RotopaX Rollpax Fuel Pack (1.5 Gallon / 2.0 Inch Mount (custom modifications) - this is a UTV/SBS type roll cage mount design Hope this answers your questions...
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq Yes Thanks,
If u still have this quad. Can u share a video of the steering stabilizer.. interested in how u modified it to work. Like u said, only make one for the 300
Lol...I just made a video....just a second and I'll give you the link. Here is the unlisted link ( kzread.info/dash/bejne/mJuTrcyxnqnPac4.html ) on a video that explains the frame mount side of the install... the steering rod install side isn't anything that needs any additional info. Let me know if you want more info/another special video.
I ride with my wife all the time and would never leave her behind at the hardest parts of the trail.
Well this is really nice of you...I'm sure your wife appreciates it a lot. But, your statement is a little strange... Because I would (also) never let my wife do any section/part/obstacle that is outside of her skill... so I'm not sure what you are talking about... Your statement states Very Clearly that you not would leave your wife behind at the hardest parts...well every trail has a hardest part and if my wife can easily do the hardest part(s) then it really is at no risk to allow her to tackle sections that she can do over and over again without any issue whatsoever! Also, any item that could cause her some surprise I stay and wait for her...when she sees me she starts slowing and checking for risk sections/items. But, hey....I'll run it past my wife and see if she wants us to live by your standards even though living by our standards (for over 60 yrs) hasn't been anything she is interested in changing. My wife has tipped over 3 times since the 1980s...once because her 3-wheeler front tire broke through the snow crust and the front tire dug in (about 20 mph). One time climbing a hill on her 3-wheeler when the rear tires grabbed traction without warning and she wheelied over (about 2 mph). And the last time when navigating a wash and let her right front tire grab the embankment and cause her to steer aggressively into the embankment and tip over (maybe 3 mph). I was right with her on the first two and only a little way in-front on the last one. But, thank you for you helicopter concern...I'll pass along the info to her and she if she want to call me a Sh&*head! lol.... 🤣🤣 Wife just read this and said "nope, were good!".... 😜😜
Ok. You do you. Have fun out there!
@@jeffbennett8633 👍👍
Howdy
Howdy...
There are not softer rear sway bars in the market?
There might be now, but at the time I did the mod I couldn't find one (any)...and once I proved that the test mod worked it just became a permanent mod by default. The mod extremely easy to do yourself (in you have access to a welder).
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq yes it could be great if you would make a tutorial :)
@@samsara2024 If you are interested in doing the mod then I can make you a video with all the key details...I would post it on my KZread page, but keep it as an unlisted video (I'd just put the video link in a new reply to your latest post/comment. Let me know if you are interested.
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq yes of course! It will be great!! :)
@@samsara2024 Ok...but it will be a bit before I can make & post something...super busy with other crap...give me a few weeks.
Eco diesel is kaka i just trade my never buy another sorry fiat
Ok...whatever works for you ...
Jeep are very stupid they need to use Cummins no def small are very clean california need to relax
That is one opinion out of billions of opinions ...
Stock gearing?
Yes, stock gearing ... But almost 5k feet above sea level... So, maybe 2 more mph at sea level and for sure with a lighter rider...geared up I'm pushing 220 lbs.
What a stupid waste of time!
What, the fact that your parents had you! You seem like such a nice addition to the human race....I bet you're an absolute joy to be around ... Always bring such positive vibes into people's life. Thank you for the comment ... I like a good laugh to start the day....
I only could do 90 on my 2020 with stock engine stuff. :)
That sounds about what mine would do stock. .... all may friends that have done similar engine mods love their bike a lot more -- even if not needing the increased top speed. ... and thank you for being honest ... The amount of comments I've got with people saying their stock xxxx bike does 125 mph is amazing!!!
I just came across your video and was wondering what you did to make the precision steering stabilizer work on your machine? Do you still have this 250x? If so, is it possible to get some pictures of how you modded the 300ex stabilizer?
I had to make a custom mount for the stabilizer body...and I made sure that the steering shaft stabilizer clamp was made for the size of steering shaft on the TRX250 (it turned out that a TRX300 has the same dia steering shaft...so I bought a 300 kit in hope that I could come up with a custom valve body mount...which I was able to do. .... And yes, I still own the quad. I'll make a short video of the install design and then post a private link (here) so you can watch the video. I should be able to get something upload before Monday morning...so if you check this comment on Monday you should find a new comment with a link to the video.
Thanks, that would be great! I'm glad I came across your video! I just spoke with Precision Racing the other day to see if they had anything for the 250ex/ 250x and told me I would have to make a custom mount. I ordered an Elite for my 400ex, then I could see if I can come up with a mount to make one work for my wife's 250ex, but if you already came up with one that will save some time! I am also planning on Elkas in the near future for her machine, too. Now that you've had it for a few years, is it worth the money over the stock suspension?
@@hibrimic The stock shocks are super cheap and have way too little rebound dampening (IMHO). I cannot say if it is worth the money without knowing how aggressive they ride and the terrain they plan on riding in. The more aggressive the rider and the worse the terrain the more the upgraded suspension will be worth it. I've been racing off-road since the mid 1980s (desert and MX)...so, I'm pretty picky when it comes to my suspension...however, the suspension on the 250 was put on to make the quality of the ride a lot better for the wife (super soft and not bouncy). I wanted shocks that I could adjust to her weight and riding style...Elkas where pretty much my only option at the time. I guess to answer you question in a different way...would I purchase the Elkas again if I had to do the mod all over again...answer is "yes". Hope this info helps... I should get the mod/bracket video posted either tonight or by late tomorrow night. Have a nice one...
Yes, this helps. We've had her 2001 250ex since new and mainly trail ride here in Wisconsin where we live. She loves her machine and doesn't want a big 4x4 or anything with a clutch. Now that we're older, the rough trail have more of an effect on us so that's why I'm upgrading her machine. We really appreciate your time and helping us out!!!
@@hibrimic Ok, I've made the video and uploaded. However, it is still processing (very slowly) so the video will not be visible for about another hour -- looks likes KZread servers are working overtime tonight. I'll have to post the video link in this thread sometime tomorrow morning....sorry for the delay.
So you pollute for fun,good for you...
... and you make the human race an overall negative experience! My guess is that you most likely are an absolute joy to be around (sarcasm)... Good for you...
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq What i said is a fact , this you can't deny.
@@whocares264 You bring so much unintentional entertainment... what you said is not fact, because you didn't even state it correctly!!! Your statement implies I pollute for fun...which has nothing to do with owning/using a Jeep off-road. I'm assuing that what you meant to say is that I pollute while having fun...meaning the Jeep is fun and pollution is a byproduct of the activity I'm undertaking. So, NO! It is not fact that I pollute for fun...I do not see anything about polluting as being fun. So, I can very easily and accurately deny your statement as not factual at all. However, you would be correct to state that I pollute while having fun. And since you like to strongly play the fact card...how about this...anything you own that was purchased because you want it means you pollute just to get things you want .... not things you need. If you drove your car to point of sale...you pollute to satisfy a want. And then, the item purchased has manufacturing, transportation, marketing, point-of-sale display, etc.. pollution trail for all stages ... and since you added to the supply-demand cycle you just added unnecessary extra pollution just to satisfy a craving! Almost everything you do in life adds some amount of extra pollution to the environment that otherwise wouldn't have been added had you not been born! That is actually a solid fact that you cannot hide from nor deny! I can only assume that you are one of those selective enforcement type people...i.e., a hypocrite!!!
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq looks like all that pollution has damaged your brain.. pollution is for necessities is different than pollution for fun.... why don't you and your vehicle stay in your closed garage with the engine running for fun .
@@whocares264 Wants vs Needs....I stated wants...you stated necessities...which is a Need!! You cannot even communicate correctly (at least two significant mistakes in this thread). The data more indicates that you are the one with brain damage. You want to try showing even more of your lack of intelligence...I can use the entertainment... lol Have a nice one...
Thank you for your info. It was very insightful. I am a current JK owner, 2011, and I am looking to upgrade either my gas motor to an LT or consider a newer used eco-diesel model similar to what you currently have.
Thank you for the kind feedback. I need to do an update video because I've learned a lot more since doing the current video. If you haven't read all the posts for this video, I highly recommend you skim over them because a few have some very detailed replies/info from me. Hope you find a good newer ride!!
58 is the fastest I’ve got my 2022 with exaust and jet kit
Nice!! I think mine could hit near 61 to 62 mph if I was 40 lbs lighter and at a lower altitude. My 450 hit in the 80s...
Regulations have killed Diesels in America. Before all this emissions stuff Diesels were the most reliable option on the market.
100% agree!! However, I've learned that most of the emissions reliability hits can be corrected with pretty basic maintenance skills...so I'm not as concerned as I used to be.
Great video!! What did rekluse say about this? Any concerns they may have had with you lowering to springs not in kit? I’m thinking of doing same thing.
Thank you for the kind feedback. Regarding contacting Rekluse...I didn't, and still don't, see the need to...here is why. The auto clutch part/pack has mechanical limits to its thickness (no thinner than nor no thicker than). There are three main variables influencing the clutch pack thickness: RPM, Weights, & Springs. The Springs hold the package at the thinnest mechanical limit. The Weights are moved outward (via centrifugal force) as a function of RPM...as RPM increases the centrifugal force forces the weights outward by overcoming the springs holding the package at it mechanical thinnest limit. The weights do this because they have wedged surface that causes the clutch package to eventually expand to its mechanical max thickness limit (which happens at a certain RPM above low idle). This max thickness is delayed by either decreasing the weights mass and/or increasing the spring stiffness. So, by going to a softer spring all you are doing is allowing the Rekluse clutch pack to achieve it mechanical maximum thickness at a lower RPM (or sooner)...and the clutch engages quicker (less slippage) so it is actually better on the clutch plates and engine oil. Just for full clarification...heavier weights and/or softer springs allow the Rekluse clutch pack to go from MIN to MAX thickness in a smaller RPM range...just the opposite with lighter weights or stronger springs. For example only: heavy weights with soft spring might see the start of clutch engagement to full engagement happen over 500 PRM range....while the light weights and strong springs see the full engagement happen over 1500 RPM. In a worst case setup....going to heavy on weights with too light on springs would make the clutch start engaging at low idle (meaning the clutch pack never gets to thinnest thickness at idle)... at the other end...too light of weights with too strong of springs would delay full clutch engagement to 6k RPM (clutch pack doesn't reach full thickness until 6000 RPM). I've got 4k miles on my 500 EXC without any issues or clutch plates wear. I've only had to adjust the freeplay once...but I check it almost every ride (not with the rubber band...just with my fingers). I hope this addresses any concerns you might have. Have a nice one...
@@SteveSmith-wl8yq thank you so much!! It does. Very very well explained. I have had a few rekluse exp setups and they’ve been pretty good. I went from a 3.0 exp to the new 4.0 and there seems to be a lot of clutch shudder at take off in 1st and 2nd and during riding when I go lower in rpms, say during a hill climb in my ride. All trails here. So I’ve been trying to figure it out. Rekluse said get it to slight drag at idle which I understand. But if I go with lightest set up and drag at idle with correct free play my rpm is too high. Like 2300 or so. My bike operates at 19-2100 normal rpms. So instead of using the 3 blue and 3 gold they suggest as lowest for the 4.0 in a wr450. I am going to go with all blue to stay at recommended rpms from my bikes manual. Strange they’ve always been pretty spot on. Thanks again!
Options are interesting, e-track would probably be of significant benefit.
Thank you for the suggestion.... I considered e-track as one of the options...but decided against it for several key reasons. I've been extremely happy with the setup as it was specifically designed around my needs. Have a nice one...
Sure i like going fast and seeing what she will do.. Check the track....or road for obstacles Run through the gears... It looked like it peaked 82-83 mph Yah...GPS said 85... Then you know... But keeping it pinned...won't show that there will be another sudden jump to 92 mph. On my 2017 KTM 300 XCW...stock... I have gone 77 mph ...ran out of space I might try it in a tuck on pavement... And the moment it doesn't seem to go faster....then back off... I will not run that long at full power...only because i want to make her last longer... Probably some day...i will go +1 on the engine sprocket... To help the top speed a tiny... As long as i can still jump a nice log in 1st...or 2nd 1977 Can-Am 250 MX3...old school air cool...94 mph easy in a tuck...+1 on engine sprocket... Thanks for showing us what yours can do.... What up with the counterbalance shaft leakage???
Thank you for the comments... I'm a desert racer...and have been since the mid 1980s! Racing Baja you can easily end up with full throttle situations spanning several minutes...in my personally experience for 2Ts if you get your AFR correct then usually you have nothing to worry about in top gear due to the engine not being able to pull max RPM. IMHO any motor, if setup correctly, can safely handle being fully open throttle for the little amount of time I held it open. For Max Speed...the GPS "log" file was used that tracks ground speed at over 10 hz refresh rate...single hit was not used...speed needed to be reported over several seconds. That data is not reported at the same rate as the MPH overlays updates. Regarding speeds on a trail...anything in the 80s (MPH) is not the big of a deal if that is what you are accustom to. I really do not consider it much of a risk if you are able to know how to read the terrain and have good visuals for time to slow if required. For certain desert races you need to be able to pull over 100 mph if you have any chance of being competitive (see the last race I entered and it wasn't even my bike... kzread.info/dash/bejne/m2iWl9COfZfAdtI.html ). Regarding the CB shaft seal leakage... the seal was old and any rubber seals exposed to the desert temps tend to not last as long. I believe that the old seal wasn't happen with the extended high rotational shaft speed (friction heat)...not that big of deal and quickly corrected with a new seal. Have a nice one...
Get a pedal monster and derringer from Banks Power. With it you can monitor emissions and regen status
Thank you for the info...I actually installed that package/setup about 4 months ago. I would have purchased it sooner, but the iDash gauge only came with a suction cup option and I didn't want the setup. Once they did the A-Pillar Pod I jumped on the full kit. I've been using Banks stuff on my Diesel vehicles since 2001...love their products! Have a nice one...
Nice!!!
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the kind feedback...
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Extra tall is how many inches? Good information
Thank you for the kind feedback. ... It depends on the trailer manufacturer, but it usually is approx 6 inches taller...the same height as an 8.5 wide enclosed car hauler. It wasn't common for a 7x12 to have 75 inch height opening...you had to get a 7.5x16 or larger to get that height. 7.5x14 UTV enclosed trailers pretty much now come stock with the taller height.
Nice fix, what all have you done suspension and steering wise? Hopefully have a jeep shortly..
Thank you for the kind feedback. I've actually done a lot of mods/upgrades to the suspension & axle assemblies. Most all my mods are made/selected based on decreasing the chance that I get stranded out on a trail--reason is because I do a lot of solo off-roading. I've done many hours of research on some of the common failure points and then selected upgrades based on that list. Some upgrades are not to address weak areas, but were selected to improve comfort and/or off-road capabilities. Here are the main things I've changed/upgraded/done: - Fox 3" IPB Remote Res Shocks for 3.5-4.5" lift travel - Clayton Core 2.5" lift Kit (closer to 3") with Swaybar links (Front & Rear) - Rough Country Adjustable Rear Track Bar for 0 to 6-Inch Lift - Teraflex Alpine IR Adjustable Front Track Bar for 0 to 6-Inch Lift - Teraflex Tie Rod & Drag Link HD Chromoly Kit (0-6" Lift) w/HD TIE ROD Ends - Teraflex Alpine IR Adjustable Control Arm Kit 0 to 4.5-Inch Lift - Synergy HD Ball Joint Kit (preload adjustable and greaseable) - Reid Racing Jeep JL / JLU / JT Heavy Duty Steering Knuckles - Rear Axles RCV M300 (4340+ steel) - Front Axles RCV M300 (4340+ steel) - Fox Race Series 2.0 ATS Steering Stabilizer (required custom designed mount) - Fox 2.0 Factory Race Series Bump Stop (Front) - Teraflex Foam Progressive Bump Stops (Rear only) - ARB Performance Differential Covers Heavy Duty - FAD Front Axle Skid Plate In the queue: Upgraded driveshafts and 4.11 gears Note: I posted a video on why I dumped the factory control arms and when with Teraflex style--here is a link to the video kzread.info/dash/bejne/d2ltl7hqerm-YM4.htmlsi=1VZs9gd5NRDBb907 Hope this info is of some value...have a nice one...
Thanks for posting all that. Looks like a well thought out parts list. We picked up a 2021 Rubicon Unlimited on Friday I will be checking into some of these part. Probably need to convince my wife her jeep needs this stuff..LOL @@SteveSmith-wl8yq
@@dont3761 Congrats on the JLUR ride! There are additional non-suspension mods/upgrades that I highly recommend. The primary one being install of a Mini-Tazer. Glad to provide/pass along any additional info (pay it forward). Have a nice one...
Two of us followed the BTV course back in 1983 from Baker to Primm, NV. Stopped at the iHop for gas and lunch. On the return trip we kinda got lost and almost were swallowed by a "dry" lake bed. Followed some RR tracks then HV power lines and finally made it to our vehicles. I ran the Roar of 84 BTV race but crashed about 1/2 way through and required a trip to the emergency room to sew up my leg. I ran one more H&H race in District 37 and then gave it up. At 34 years old I was never going to keep up with the kids. Shortly thereafter I was transferred to Shaw AFB, SC where I got into trail riding and enduro.
Barstow to Vegas was always one of those races I had on my bucket list (On Any Sunday)...as was the Mint 400 and Baja 1000. I was able to do the Baja races (250/500/1000), but missed out on the Mint and BTV...though Mint is back for bikes! I remember the good old days of dead reckoning and hoping that I was heading in the correct direction (GPS now). Super big bummer to hear about your 84 BTV emer room trip. I've been riding since the 70s and have made several emer room trips over the years. Regarding your 34 years old...I started racing Baja in my mid 40s and just raced in the Over 30 Expert Class, Las Vegas to Reno Race, while in my 60s... and I was faster than a lot of the riders entered in that class ( kzread.info/dash/bejne/m2iWl9COfZfAdtI.htmlsi=10gOVHoeCujEYhFT ). I was stationed at Hill AFB in the mid to late 80s... actually had a TDY to McEntire ANG base (fix one of their planes) and had to drive to Shaw a few times during the TDY. I raced MX and Desert racing while in Utah...started the Enduro stuff while stationed at Misawa Japan. Now I mostly do the desert trail riding thing. Happy Trails...