Did you add tape to just the right half of that air inlet? Or the whole air inlet. ?
@HazyJay2 сағат бұрын
Just the right half where the water is able to drip in👌
@mobietv877817 сағат бұрын
perfect thanks a lot great support for my RR Sport repairs
@viliusskarbalius850721 сағат бұрын
Youre a life saver, didn't know where to look, but had same suspicion that it is coming though the roof, was looking for this info so long, you have a best dey my dude!
@HazyJay21 сағат бұрын
Supposedly water can also leak through the A-pillar trim if the water-proof connectors are broken, but checking these will likely break the connectors, so it's a catch 22
@viliusskarbalius850720 сағат бұрын
@@HazyJay i have l322 td6, i think my problem is as you show, because theres alredy some silicone added from a previous owner, so that definnetly looked like it might be throu there, as i heard, others even drill out a hole in that tray where water collects to drain it if anything like that happens again
@HazyJay20 сағат бұрын
@@viliusskarbalius8507 I've considered that as well, it's better than having the water accumulate with the wire bundle I suppose
@HazyJay22 сағат бұрын
It's been 6 years and the blades are unchanged and as good as new. Just drove to work during hurricane Beryl landfall (7am) and had no problem (except puncturing the sidewall of my tire on a fallen tree right outside my house).
@dudebrofosho22 сағат бұрын
Hold up, so much knowledge imparted just now
@thevikingoli88472 күн бұрын
hey thank you for the explanation.....but the rear and the front valve are they the same except the valve near the compressor
@ronaldrrootiii60403 күн бұрын
What if it turns a light blue green
@HazyJay3 күн бұрын
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 make sure you're not sucking up coolant, but eventually it should pick yellow or stay blue
@ronaldrrootiii60403 күн бұрын
@@HazyJay okay thank you for that suggestion! In all honesty the rubber tip did have water droplets on it after I did the test multiple times so I think I did just suck up water a bit but truly never turn yellow
@tuatua90293 күн бұрын
Ditch the music...... can't hear the leak man.
@HazyJay3 күн бұрын
The vehicle in the video has coil springs, it's used for demonstration only 😅
@adelkhokhar6 күн бұрын
hi, my LR4 , 2014, front has dropped. Air springs have no leak, the valve block is ok. But the vehicle is not lifting (in front). The compressor is working fine as well. What could be the issue? Thanks
@marcodejesus11787 күн бұрын
2009renge rover sport v8 ,some times no crank no start, but, wen starts with no problem few minutes later ac turn off and the hazards lights start flashing, wen I put the ignition switch on and the ac work it means that the truck is going to start and to ad to the problem the radio never works, wen it starts the engine runs good, what this problem can be???
@agispapadopoulos67377 күн бұрын
very informative, thanks!
@pppse434yougomegoallgo47 күн бұрын
Toyota 👍
@user-et2gf1jl8q8 күн бұрын
hey i had a question how to fix this problem 2010 land rover ranger says special program not available
@VISTATREKKER9 күн бұрын
This is so well done. Clear & step by step. So many of these videos make you endure ages of shakey unlit head cam footage that rarely even views the target. Thank you. 🙏 clarity is your gift 💪
@raydin10 күн бұрын
Hey, Hazy. I drive from Katy to Galveston pretty much every day, and so I need to have good wipers on at all times. I've been using rubber blades of different brands to test them out, but I just heard about silicone wipers. You are so far the only person with a video about them that covers the only really relevant advantage of a silicone wiper, durability. How are they holding up so far? Do you feel they are still worth recommending? Also, do you only apply the coating in the beginning or every set interval of time?
@HazyJay10 күн бұрын
@@raydin They're still just like new, I'm never buying rubber wipers again 😂
@AAM_SAM13 күн бұрын
Hello I have an issue. 2011 SC RRS. I’m getting a vehicle leaning detected after starting a drive. The issue disappears when shutting off the car I dont know where to start
@HaroldWalder-ft2ye14 күн бұрын
Great how to video! Thanks!
@sharmee00717 күн бұрын
Hi, great video.. thank you so much. Just wondering which adpater did you use to fit in the reservoir? Do you have the link? Thank you
@HazyJay17 күн бұрын
It's the adapter that came with the power bleeder, it seems to be pretty universal I believe: amzn.to/4eMXPu6
@patrickbarksdale531621 күн бұрын
You said a new one is around $150 I call the dealership they said $1,788,72 that a big difference
@newFaction6423 күн бұрын
Google say silicone lubricant degrades plastic.
@larrysimon125 күн бұрын
I never ever use the extraction pump on my own Jags it does not clean out all the old oil. Always take the sump plug out and drain it fully that way.
@markbeard22222 күн бұрын
Respectfully, you don’t know what you’re talking about.
@larrysimon1Күн бұрын
@@markbeard2222 What a Clown you are HAHAHAHAHA, I'm Just 43 years a car mechanic and a Jaguar Master Technician for 20 of those years !
@dpcustomsolutions453025 күн бұрын
Why is their green coolant in the hose at the end of the video?
@chrishull998326 күн бұрын
I don't understand why you had to replace the front cowl panel 🤷
@fallouty26 күн бұрын
Thank you, this was very helpful! Please consider more videos covering around other F-Type quirks, seatbelt, rattles, dynamat, speaker system upgrade, display upgrade, etc.
@ingemec8328 күн бұрын
I had the same problem with my 2006 LR3 HSE ...changed T'sat ...problem fixed!...Excellent videos
@olivere947428 күн бұрын
Great video.. I officially am gonna start trying to do repairs myself.. Can anyone help here?? Last week, I got the restricted performance error. didnt check out what was going on as I turned the car off and it went away. It came back the other night. 1st, could not drive over 30.. then later it allowed me to drive fine but engine light was on. In the morning, all gone and I could drive normal with no errors. I decided to check what error codes were flagged. 1) P2135 Throttle Position Sensor 2) P2105 Throttle Control System 3) P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve its weird that it goes away and comes back. Never know when its going to do this but need to fix. Today I cleaned the mass airflow sensor hoping that helps but drove great for a few days 50-100 miles then happened again. Any ideas? Was gonna try cleaning the throttle body.. i have a 2011 L322 HSE I don't think you can replace just the throttlebody sensor you have to replace the whole unit if it comes to that
@mscher22Ай бұрын
Oh man ... I bought an aftermarket Hitachi replacement compressor and when I went to replace it I discovered that mine is an AMK!!!! and it is a 2007 Range Rover Sport. It has the 2.7L diesel engine and was purchased in Spain. Not blaming anyone ... just venting!
@northjerseykevin3915Ай бұрын
Thanks for the video. I called Landrover and they told me $500 to change latch in labor. I almost question if they were messing with me
@HazyJay29 күн бұрын
haha pretty classic of the dealer, and it would have taken a week
@nelsonortas4796Ай бұрын
Awesome!!!!!!!......... My car is not overheating but does smoke from near the right side of the battery in the same direction of the center windshield stereo speaker. smells like coolant leaked onto the motor
@gigicarnatАй бұрын
Hi I replaced my height sensor, like in the video. The old one was very worn, but I have a problem now, my car doesn’t recognize the new one, tried to calibrate the suspension, the computer says “out of limit tolerance” any advice ? Anybody ?
@HazyJayАй бұрын
Either the connector to the new sensor is corroded/dirty/incomplete OR the new sensor is faulty. I'd try cleaning the electrical harness and if that doesn't work, I would try a new sensor.
@gigicarnatАй бұрын
@@HazyJay it’s an aftermarket sensor, maybe I have to code it ?could be ?
@HazyJayАй бұрын
@@gigicarnat Yeah, sometimes the aftermarket sensors aren't plug and play and need calibration at the dealer. Because of that I usually try to get OEM height sensors just so I don't have to deal with it.
@oglaceddrugАй бұрын
Disconnecting the NEGATIVE terminal is ideal in practice (as to minimize chances of shorting out by contact of the POSITIVE terminal to the vehicle’s chassis)
@thatianasswhight2704Ай бұрын
Left side of my RR is very low
@macfarland1Ай бұрын
Good looking out on the 2 bolts not to remove on the pump. Problem I had was I was unable to remove the fan shroud on my 2011 HSE (Jag). removed 2 pins and 3 bolts. Seems to be 2 pieces. got the smaller one out but then got stuck. Maybe you have to remove the fan.
@atlantisgriffin5178Ай бұрын
I have the same suv how much to have mine done the same
@todcarter110Ай бұрын
I was thinking, surely I can strap a ping pong ball onto the float. What a waste having to swap out the entire Unit.
@HazyJayАй бұрын
In theory you can "let it dry out" and replace. Considering coolant is likely ethylene glycol it would take about 2-3 weeks to "evaporate" and repair is a big maybe, I just went ahead and replaced it. You're right though, if the reservoir was more expensive I definitely would have gone with the dry out method.
@todcarter110Ай бұрын
@@HazyJay Cheers for the reply+Info. It certainly is odd they'd make a coolant float that'd sink from Coolant. I believe the Vehicle i purchased was sold due to this as one of the problems, only the prev owner didn't know it's simply that the float has sunk. At first I was overfilling the Overflow and it was purging the excess out and I kept smelling coolant (I need to check all the overflow hoses for a possible leak it smells so much). Then I thought what if the sensor is kaput so googled it and found it simply sinks over time. I have a similar age related prob with the rear boot latch soft close motor. One of the micro switches has the nipple missing, so I need to tap the latch with a Flat screwdriver and hammer to get the motor to activate and close the boot fully. With all the talk of saving the planet how they get away with all these disposable parts is beyond me. Thought I might make a Vid on the Boot latch repair. I opened it up (With a Dremel Mini Grinder wheel.) n had a look, nothing wrong with the Motor it's simply the rubber nipple on the micro switch has worn off. I used Bolts nuts n reassembled it. That's when I worked out it's simply missing the rubber button to tell the motor when the boot has been opened so as to activate when the boot is closed. One or two taps and bam the motor engages and pulls the boot shut. Thanks for the upload here though. Always helps once seeing someone has done it before. Cheers From Down Under!
@OisteinRUАй бұрын
Hey! All your RRS videos are super💪🏼 really helpfull! My RRS 2010 has a problem with the suspension won’t lower. When I try to lower it, it jumps up to offroad mode. The ride feel kinda “bumpy” and the ride height looks off. It does not sag over time. Any helpful advice? Thanks!
@sadoooal_amrei4205Ай бұрын
I hope you can put a translation into Arabic because your clips are useful. Thank you very much.
@DoU3vnLftBr0Ай бұрын
My rear suspension is stuck in extended mode, can I just loosen the vent to atmosphere valve connector to drop the air suspension manually?
@HazyJayАй бұрын
Yes, but stop as soon as you hear a hiss and let it deflate over the next 5-10 minutes
@DoU3vnLftBr0Ай бұрын
@HazyJay of course I want to fix the problem but as a temp solution to driving the car this will work. When starting the car back up again what level will it pump up to, hopeit won't reset back to extended? Should I try set the computer to normal height before draining the air from the rear so it only pumps back up to normal height?
@HazyJayАй бұрын
@@DoU3vnLftBr0 Hard to say what it will try to go to when you restart the car, honestly the compressor might shut off because it gets too hot before it gets back to extended. Definitely try and press low or normal height as soon as you start the car, the height sensors should know you are no longer extended.
@laithvideos1Ай бұрын
For an LR4, the visual display is not like this. How do you know if there is a height sensor issue when there is a suspension fault warning on the console vs. a valve block issue? Car compression system works fine and stays level overnight. Thank you!
@lilkg69Ай бұрын
I’ve replaced the MAF with an OEM LR one correct part number. Still getting P0174. What do you suggest I look at next? I have a pcv valve in the mail so far…
@muhammadandriansyah7331Ай бұрын
I tried disconnecting the battery terminal and left it for 1 night but the suspension wouldn't go down. where's the problem?
@gnfnroses5470Ай бұрын
Im cutting my #7 and #8 right now. 2007 RR Sport HSE 4.4L V8 Ill post the video how it sounds when i come home.
@HazyJayАй бұрын
Nice, I'm curious how it will sound.
@gnfnroses5470Ай бұрын
@@HazyJay there is a video that i post on my channel. Is made with iphone so it may be bad🤷🏻♂️
@gnfnroses5470Ай бұрын
Is this 4.4L v8
@HazyJayАй бұрын
Yes 👌
@DavincisgarageАй бұрын
kzread.infoB56vlvBOc2A?si=jL6Jcz7W1S0BeI-x Did ur bushings sound like this??
@usrr5294Ай бұрын
Hard to get to top bolt was stripped. Gonna try to get the entire bracket off as people have recommended
@Kraziken0Ай бұрын
I feel like I extracted more oil out. But I am using the oil extractor that attaches to an air compressor.
@blackrocklookoutАй бұрын
I like to watch your videos to look for things that are bound to come up on my LR3. That one clip you showed in this video of the glowing coolant leak on top of the plastic thermostat housing left of and down from the throttle body. I have that too. What causes it?
@HazyJayАй бұрын
If you just replaced the thermostat or disconnected any of the upper hoses, coolant at that spot is likely from spillage during that process. If not, then it's possibly a leak from the thermostat or something around there like the bleed screw.
@blackrocklookoutАй бұрын
@@HazyJay Okay, thanks. Not sure of the maintenance history of the cooling system as I got the vehicle recently. Seemed odd to me that there would be coolant above a connection rather than below!
@HazyJayАй бұрын
What I would do is clean it off with some water and see if it reaccumulates, if not you're probably good 👍. One time I checked under the hood and the bleed nut by the thermostat was totally broken off and leaking.
@blackrocklookoutАй бұрын
@@HazyJay Appreciate you, your videos, and your willingness to answer quick questions!
@HazyJayАй бұрын
No prob haha, were all in this together 🤙
@drewstroescu2 ай бұрын
Super vidéo Merci de France
@kyfisher36622 ай бұрын
what my local shop tells me is silicone: good for those that dont maintain there car. leaves an ok hydrophobic coating. dosnt get damaged in the sun. Rubber: good for those that maintain there car. dosnt leave a hydrophobic coating, but spray on rain x will do a better job at repelling what and silicone blades jitter on rain-x. they do get damaged fast by the sun, but if you coat them in somthing like 303 then they will last just as long. whats you thoughts on this?
@HazyJay2 ай бұрын
Local shop will always want to sell Rubber because they need replacing more often. Ultimately, Silicone is the superior material for wiper blades, and there are zero negatives.
@blackrocklookout2 ай бұрын
I'm going to give this a shot on my LR3. I don't have a check engine light, but I have an annoying message indicating "Reduced Engine Performance." The air filter from previous owner was deplorable, so I changed it. And I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The message remains. No real rough idle issues to speak of, just the message.
Пікірлер
Did you add tape to just the right half of that air inlet? Or the whole air inlet. ?
Just the right half where the water is able to drip in👌
perfect thanks a lot great support for my RR Sport repairs
Youre a life saver, didn't know where to look, but had same suspicion that it is coming though the roof, was looking for this info so long, you have a best dey my dude!
Supposedly water can also leak through the A-pillar trim if the water-proof connectors are broken, but checking these will likely break the connectors, so it's a catch 22
@@HazyJay i have l322 td6, i think my problem is as you show, because theres alredy some silicone added from a previous owner, so that definnetly looked like it might be throu there, as i heard, others even drill out a hole in that tray where water collects to drain it if anything like that happens again
@@viliusskarbalius8507 I've considered that as well, it's better than having the water accumulate with the wire bundle I suppose
It's been 6 years and the blades are unchanged and as good as new. Just drove to work during hurricane Beryl landfall (7am) and had no problem (except puncturing the sidewall of my tire on a fallen tree right outside my house).
Hold up, so much knowledge imparted just now
hey thank you for the explanation.....but the rear and the front valve are they the same except the valve near the compressor
What if it turns a light blue green
@@ronaldrrootiii6040 make sure you're not sucking up coolant, but eventually it should pick yellow or stay blue
@@HazyJay okay thank you for that suggestion! In all honesty the rubber tip did have water droplets on it after I did the test multiple times so I think I did just suck up water a bit but truly never turn yellow
Ditch the music...... can't hear the leak man.
The vehicle in the video has coil springs, it's used for demonstration only 😅
hi, my LR4 , 2014, front has dropped. Air springs have no leak, the valve block is ok. But the vehicle is not lifting (in front). The compressor is working fine as well. What could be the issue? Thanks
2009renge rover sport v8 ,some times no crank no start, but, wen starts with no problem few minutes later ac turn off and the hazards lights start flashing, wen I put the ignition switch on and the ac work it means that the truck is going to start and to ad to the problem the radio never works, wen it starts the engine runs good, what this problem can be???
very informative, thanks!
Toyota 👍
hey i had a question how to fix this problem 2010 land rover ranger says special program not available
This is so well done. Clear & step by step. So many of these videos make you endure ages of shakey unlit head cam footage that rarely even views the target. Thank you. 🙏 clarity is your gift 💪
Hey, Hazy. I drive from Katy to Galveston pretty much every day, and so I need to have good wipers on at all times. I've been using rubber blades of different brands to test them out, but I just heard about silicone wipers. You are so far the only person with a video about them that covers the only really relevant advantage of a silicone wiper, durability. How are they holding up so far? Do you feel they are still worth recommending? Also, do you only apply the coating in the beginning or every set interval of time?
@@raydin They're still just like new, I'm never buying rubber wipers again 😂
Hello I have an issue. 2011 SC RRS. I’m getting a vehicle leaning detected after starting a drive. The issue disappears when shutting off the car I dont know where to start
Great how to video! Thanks!
Hi, great video.. thank you so much. Just wondering which adpater did you use to fit in the reservoir? Do you have the link? Thank you
It's the adapter that came with the power bleeder, it seems to be pretty universal I believe: amzn.to/4eMXPu6
You said a new one is around $150 I call the dealership they said $1,788,72 that a big difference
Google say silicone lubricant degrades plastic.
I never ever use the extraction pump on my own Jags it does not clean out all the old oil. Always take the sump plug out and drain it fully that way.
Respectfully, you don’t know what you’re talking about.
@@markbeard2222 What a Clown you are HAHAHAHAHA, I'm Just 43 years a car mechanic and a Jaguar Master Technician for 20 of those years !
Why is their green coolant in the hose at the end of the video?
I don't understand why you had to replace the front cowl panel 🤷
Thank you, this was very helpful! Please consider more videos covering around other F-Type quirks, seatbelt, rattles, dynamat, speaker system upgrade, display upgrade, etc.
I had the same problem with my 2006 LR3 HSE ...changed T'sat ...problem fixed!...Excellent videos
Great video.. I officially am gonna start trying to do repairs myself.. Can anyone help here?? Last week, I got the restricted performance error. didnt check out what was going on as I turned the car off and it went away. It came back the other night. 1st, could not drive over 30.. then later it allowed me to drive fine but engine light was on. In the morning, all gone and I could drive normal with no errors. I decided to check what error codes were flagged. 1) P2135 Throttle Position Sensor 2) P2105 Throttle Control System 3) P0660 Intake Manifold Tuning Valve its weird that it goes away and comes back. Never know when its going to do this but need to fix. Today I cleaned the mass airflow sensor hoping that helps but drove great for a few days 50-100 miles then happened again. Any ideas? Was gonna try cleaning the throttle body.. i have a 2011 L322 HSE I don't think you can replace just the throttlebody sensor you have to replace the whole unit if it comes to that
Oh man ... I bought an aftermarket Hitachi replacement compressor and when I went to replace it I discovered that mine is an AMK!!!! and it is a 2007 Range Rover Sport. It has the 2.7L diesel engine and was purchased in Spain. Not blaming anyone ... just venting!
Thanks for the video. I called Landrover and they told me $500 to change latch in labor. I almost question if they were messing with me
haha pretty classic of the dealer, and it would have taken a week
Awesome!!!!!!!......... My car is not overheating but does smoke from near the right side of the battery in the same direction of the center windshield stereo speaker. smells like coolant leaked onto the motor
Hi I replaced my height sensor, like in the video. The old one was very worn, but I have a problem now, my car doesn’t recognize the new one, tried to calibrate the suspension, the computer says “out of limit tolerance” any advice ? Anybody ?
Either the connector to the new sensor is corroded/dirty/incomplete OR the new sensor is faulty. I'd try cleaning the electrical harness and if that doesn't work, I would try a new sensor.
@@HazyJay it’s an aftermarket sensor, maybe I have to code it ?could be ?
@@gigicarnat Yeah, sometimes the aftermarket sensors aren't plug and play and need calibration at the dealer. Because of that I usually try to get OEM height sensors just so I don't have to deal with it.
Disconnecting the NEGATIVE terminal is ideal in practice (as to minimize chances of shorting out by contact of the POSITIVE terminal to the vehicle’s chassis)
Left side of my RR is very low
Good looking out on the 2 bolts not to remove on the pump. Problem I had was I was unable to remove the fan shroud on my 2011 HSE (Jag). removed 2 pins and 3 bolts. Seems to be 2 pieces. got the smaller one out but then got stuck. Maybe you have to remove the fan.
I have the same suv how much to have mine done the same
I was thinking, surely I can strap a ping pong ball onto the float. What a waste having to swap out the entire Unit.
In theory you can "let it dry out" and replace. Considering coolant is likely ethylene glycol it would take about 2-3 weeks to "evaporate" and repair is a big maybe, I just went ahead and replaced it. You're right though, if the reservoir was more expensive I definitely would have gone with the dry out method.
@@HazyJay Cheers for the reply+Info. It certainly is odd they'd make a coolant float that'd sink from Coolant. I believe the Vehicle i purchased was sold due to this as one of the problems, only the prev owner didn't know it's simply that the float has sunk. At first I was overfilling the Overflow and it was purging the excess out and I kept smelling coolant (I need to check all the overflow hoses for a possible leak it smells so much). Then I thought what if the sensor is kaput so googled it and found it simply sinks over time. I have a similar age related prob with the rear boot latch soft close motor. One of the micro switches has the nipple missing, so I need to tap the latch with a Flat screwdriver and hammer to get the motor to activate and close the boot fully. With all the talk of saving the planet how they get away with all these disposable parts is beyond me. Thought I might make a Vid on the Boot latch repair. I opened it up (With a Dremel Mini Grinder wheel.) n had a look, nothing wrong with the Motor it's simply the rubber nipple on the micro switch has worn off. I used Bolts nuts n reassembled it. That's when I worked out it's simply missing the rubber button to tell the motor when the boot has been opened so as to activate when the boot is closed. One or two taps and bam the motor engages and pulls the boot shut. Thanks for the upload here though. Always helps once seeing someone has done it before. Cheers From Down Under!
Hey! All your RRS videos are super💪🏼 really helpfull! My RRS 2010 has a problem with the suspension won’t lower. When I try to lower it, it jumps up to offroad mode. The ride feel kinda “bumpy” and the ride height looks off. It does not sag over time. Any helpful advice? Thanks!
I hope you can put a translation into Arabic because your clips are useful. Thank you very much.
My rear suspension is stuck in extended mode, can I just loosen the vent to atmosphere valve connector to drop the air suspension manually?
Yes, but stop as soon as you hear a hiss and let it deflate over the next 5-10 minutes
@HazyJay of course I want to fix the problem but as a temp solution to driving the car this will work. When starting the car back up again what level will it pump up to, hopeit won't reset back to extended? Should I try set the computer to normal height before draining the air from the rear so it only pumps back up to normal height?
@@DoU3vnLftBr0 Hard to say what it will try to go to when you restart the car, honestly the compressor might shut off because it gets too hot before it gets back to extended. Definitely try and press low or normal height as soon as you start the car, the height sensors should know you are no longer extended.
For an LR4, the visual display is not like this. How do you know if there is a height sensor issue when there is a suspension fault warning on the console vs. a valve block issue? Car compression system works fine and stays level overnight. Thank you!
I’ve replaced the MAF with an OEM LR one correct part number. Still getting P0174. What do you suggest I look at next? I have a pcv valve in the mail so far…
I tried disconnecting the battery terminal and left it for 1 night but the suspension wouldn't go down. where's the problem?
Im cutting my #7 and #8 right now. 2007 RR Sport HSE 4.4L V8 Ill post the video how it sounds when i come home.
Nice, I'm curious how it will sound.
@@HazyJay there is a video that i post on my channel. Is made with iphone so it may be bad🤷🏻♂️
Is this 4.4L v8
Yes 👌
kzread.infoB56vlvBOc2A?si=jL6Jcz7W1S0BeI-x Did ur bushings sound like this??
Hard to get to top bolt was stripped. Gonna try to get the entire bracket off as people have recommended
I feel like I extracted more oil out. But I am using the oil extractor that attaches to an air compressor.
I like to watch your videos to look for things that are bound to come up on my LR3. That one clip you showed in this video of the glowing coolant leak on top of the plastic thermostat housing left of and down from the throttle body. I have that too. What causes it?
If you just replaced the thermostat or disconnected any of the upper hoses, coolant at that spot is likely from spillage during that process. If not, then it's possibly a leak from the thermostat or something around there like the bleed screw.
@@HazyJay Okay, thanks. Not sure of the maintenance history of the cooling system as I got the vehicle recently. Seemed odd to me that there would be coolant above a connection rather than below!
What I would do is clean it off with some water and see if it reaccumulates, if not you're probably good 👍. One time I checked under the hood and the bleed nut by the thermostat was totally broken off and leaking.
@@HazyJay Appreciate you, your videos, and your willingness to answer quick questions!
No prob haha, were all in this together 🤙
Super vidéo Merci de France
what my local shop tells me is silicone: good for those that dont maintain there car. leaves an ok hydrophobic coating. dosnt get damaged in the sun. Rubber: good for those that maintain there car. dosnt leave a hydrophobic coating, but spray on rain x will do a better job at repelling what and silicone blades jitter on rain-x. they do get damaged fast by the sun, but if you coat them in somthing like 303 then they will last just as long. whats you thoughts on this?
Local shop will always want to sell Rubber because they need replacing more often. Ultimately, Silicone is the superior material for wiper blades, and there are zero negatives.
I'm going to give this a shot on my LR3. I don't have a check engine light, but I have an annoying message indicating "Reduced Engine Performance." The air filter from previous owner was deplorable, so I changed it. And I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The message remains. No real rough idle issues to speak of, just the message.