A venerable compendium of mucking about in the garage and around the house. Some technical rubbish, and some stuff just for a smile. A couple of beers and a few cups of coffee along the way. The channel where the only thing worse than the content is the production.
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Thanks for the video! Just changed my rear dampers on my SX4 after watching the video. Saved me a good amount of money :)
Thx for watching 🍻
Currently trying to fix a p2097 code on my 2008 sx4 AWD.. replaced both O2s.. and also replaced the exhaust gasket(large circle) at the collector.. would an exhaust leak way back at the muffler pipe junction over the trailing arm cause a p2097?
I doubt it. Do you have tooling to read the live data fuel trim (STFT-LTFT)? Is your car (engine systems) modified?
@@TheGibby3340 I don't.. just a simple code reader.. no mods.. I'm.going to check active Volt reader for sensor 2 in a bit... But it's new and I checked it when installed... Ngk sensor.. should be good..
@TimeLapseCarGuyBruno Without capacity to monitor fuel trim data, your capacity to troubleshoot the issue will be severely impaired. Good luck. Thx for watching 🍻
This air pump vacuum keep the refrigerant?
No it strictly pulls a vacuum. Thx for watching. 🍻
Ho la stessa problema ma no ho capito niente 😂
I'm a DIY guy and just recently got this scope and starting to play around with it. I need to get an attenuator. Is a 10:1 all I need or should I also get a 20:1? I have watched your other videos on the pico and Hantek. I'm wanting to get one of those. I have a canbus issue I need to troubleshoot and just want to learn to use the scope more for automotive diagnostics. Another question will the Hantek CC65 current clamp work with this scope? I saw you use it with the Hantek and PIco and was curious if you tried it with this one. I want to be able to test like blower motors and starters and things.
10:1 is likely adequate. To use the current clamp you will require an adapter mini BNC to BNC. Thx for watching.
That’s why we have become a throwaway society. Current price in the US on Amazon for a brand new Suzuki compressor is $97 and a brand new condenser is $62 delivered in one day to your doorstep. With the current $195 per hour labor repair charge time is money so who is going to be rebuilding a 15 year old compressor ❔👈👀
Me 🤣 Thx for watching 🍻
huge luxury having a spare car for parts swapping I like the mechanical hand👍
Certainly is. You were one of the few who called it Denis. Thx for your suggestions and watching 🍻
❤ thank you 🙏
Thanks for watching 👍
How long ago did you install the Delphi MAF? From my experience, aftermarket MAFs are a waste of time, if they work at all out of the box or last any reasonable time, they're a waste of money. I quit using aftermarket sensors years ago. Genuine Bosch, Denso, or Hitachi is the way to go. And I'd avoid purchasing from Amazon or eBay, lots of counterfeit stuff floating around these days.
Couple of years back. Only recently did my Son report the stumbling. As usual… false economy to cheap out. Thx for watching and your comments 🍻
@@TheGibby3340 A couple of years, not bad, you got your monies worth. 🤪 Your son probably delayed reporting the symptoms for fear of not having his car due to its YT production value 🤪
🤣 Maybe.
Its like watching a main dealer at work 👍😁.
🤣 Start swapping bits. You’ll eventually fix it 🤣 Cheers Iain
Heres a question; how would you have proceeded if you did not have an identical vehicle available?😉😉
Good question 🤔 I had my suspicions about the MAF idle value. Likely injector balance test and then endoscope the intake manifold for restriction (carbon buildup). Thx again for watching and your comments 🍻
I saw a similar aftermarket MAF sensor case study, 99 Subaru Imprreza, a Subaru Top tech chased his tail, had break-out leads installed, scoping, measuring, gathering data, forget the rest, but he eventually installed an OEM MAF, all fixed.
@hnd2893 Not the first or the last. 🍻
Both of these cars have the two liter right? I've heard the rule of thumb that the grams per second at warm idle should be just slightly above the displacement in litres. In case you don't have a known good part... or car for comparison! Looks like a Bendin reference 😁
Yeah both are 2.0L gasoline. The only engine option in Canada are far as I know. That rule of thumb sounds about right. Thx for watching 🍻
Nice find…I’ve had more and more issues with “quality” name brand aftermarket parts, especially sensors.
Frustrating. False economy to cheap out. Don’t know how many times I have seen this movie and still not learned the lesson. Being a cheap bastard is expensive at times 🤣 Thx for watching Brian 🍻
Very interesting! I was always under the impression that when the MASS sensor was bad, the fuel trims would get worse at higher RPMs. This proves just the opposite in this case. Maybe the other scenario is when you have a dirty MASS. Thanks for posting this one, it was very informative!
Thx Bob. Yeah I learned a little on this one. Thx for watching 🍻
Thank you my daughter has a suzuki sx4
Thx for watching 🍻
you could swap those 2 MAF sensors?
Yes I plan on doing just that Denis. Didn’t yesterday as the rain was relentless. 🍻
Good stuff! Love your videos!
Thanks very much & thx for watching 🍻
Nice one, the clamp meter is an essential bit of kit for electrical troubleshooting and I am sure your instructions may help people.
Thx Colin. And thx for watching 🍻
Sounds like the throttle motors not responding fast enough or the mass air is going bad I had that happen in my in my Grand Vitara if you can't find any mass air flow sensor let me know or throttle bodies have like four of them and I have a couple mass air flow sensors aftermarket ones won't work
Thx for the suggestion and kind offer. And thanks for watching 🍻
You wanna hold the revs about 2k for about 10 seconds to see if your stft drops. If so, you have a vacuum leak. In your previous vid I think there was an evap code so I would pull the purge valve from the intake, block the hole with your finger, see if trims recover. If so, stuck open purge valve giving you a leak you won't see with smoke. Seems the previous vid is deleted so can't check
Yeah it’s not on the vid but I did that Dave. With increased RPM the trims do go down but not that much. Still quite high. I removed the purge valve yesterday and it’s associated plumbing, it smoke & pressure checked ok. The problem with smoking the manifold is your actually pressurizing it (all be it very very low px). The vacuum leak may not manifest. That MAF is not right…
@@TheGibby3340 if trims do not recover when holding revs then test fuel pressure and look for unmetered air
@davesterl 60 psi F/P even under racing. >19 inHg vacuum @ idle. Smoked the hell outta the thing X3. 🤷♂️
Have a similar problem with my 2007 Suzuki SX4 stumbles whenever it rains.Worse than my Irish uncle, but he was easy to fix. We just hid the alcohol🍺. Mine’s been doing that about 5 years misfires then I just drive it about a mile stop and turn the key off wait about 60 seconds start it up and she’s good to go for the rest of the day until rains again. 🚙🌧️🅿️🚙👈👀
I had a similar “conditions” related issue some time back. Here the issue if your interested. Thx for watching 🍀👍 kzread.info/dash/bejne/ZnaesLmsmZaWecY.htmlsi=QX1dMSPE-VWdJv-k
Is the upstream O2 sensor an AFR type? Odometer reading?
Yes upstream is an A/F sensor. Current odometer readings is 332,000 kilometres. Thx for watching 🍻
@@TheGibby3340 If you haven't yet, pick a few more PIDs to observe, Engine Load (calculated), AFR sensor current, Lambda or EQ, Rear O2 volts, EGR duty, gather more data, build a picture, ect, or just scan and compare to your known-good parked in the driveway. I assume you've inspected and cleaned the MAF. Unplug the MAF, make sure the ECM will recognize it's unplugged and code for it. Have you tried the Blue Driver Bluetooth scanner, with it's Mode 6 deciphering capabilities? Either the MAF is skewed or the engine is getting air from somewhere else. PCV? Fuel pump volume? You've probably have already fixed it, Thanks for reading :O)
@hnd2893 Thx for the suggestions. I wish it was fixed 🤣 I am turning my attention to the PCV system. Still considering if a PCV issue could cause these symptoms. Thx again 🍻
Hello. Excellent video. This is exactly what is happening to me on my SX4 1.6, but my leak is in the upper radiator tank, I discovered it a couple of days ago. One question, can I put a radiator sealant (Liquimoly, Prestone, etc.) until I can buy a new radiator? And another question, where can I get the SX4 service manual? Thank you so much. Greetings from Chile.
I have never had any luck with cooling system sealers, I haven’t used them in many years. There is a video on the radiator replacement on the channel if you are interested. Repairmanualnow.com for a PDF download. About $30 USD. Thx for watching 🍀🍻
@@TheGibby3340 Thank You 🙏🏽
Thanks for sharing. I recently bought a 2010 SX4 AWD.
They’re great cars. I hope it meets your expectations & keeps you safe for many years to come. Thanks for watching 🍻
Onde acha pra comprar meu amigo
Frnisi DSO152 Attenuation & Coupling Preliminaries kzread.info/dash/bejne/k599j9uRiqm_gMY.html Thx for watching 🍻
A mobile mechanic came out about 3 weeks ago to replace the starter on our 2002 Lexus LS 430 and after he was finished the car ran sluggish and the check engine light along with the check VCS light was on so I took it to Autozone to have the code/codes read and it came back P1663 OCV circuit (Bank 2) followed by P1354 VVT system (Bank 2) and below that it read Secondary DTCs P1330 Igniter Circuit #7. Well, for some reason I didn't pay much attention to the secondary igniter circuit #7 code, instead I concentrated on the oil control valve because I'd replaced the driver side OCV last summer. I pulled the ocv out and checked it with jumper wires off of the battery and it worked so I cleaned it, oiled it and reinstalled it thinking that the mechanic must have broken a wire leading to it or it was unplugged in the back of the engine somewhere or something of that nature. I'd already checked the plug going to the OCV so I was confident that it was good. Anyway, we drove it for 2 weeks like that until I looked at the code readout and noticed the igniter circuit #7 code again then went out and looked and sure enough the last wire on the #7 cylinder ignition coil plug connector was broke right where it enters the plug so I pulled the connector out of the plug and soldered the wire back to it and reassembled it, plugged it in and it ran smooth and had power but the check engine light and check VCS light was still on so I figured I'd trace that down next. Well, after letting the car set for 20 minutes or so my wife went to run an errand in it and all the warning lights were off and it runs great again. Does this make sense to you? Why would a broken coil wire (the black and white one) cause an oil control valve code? I've been scratching my head with this one.
11:54 What brand/set are those extractors? My nuts started out in better shape than yours (one came off without needing extractor), but my 14mm extractor just stripped the nut that needs extraction. The extractor didn’t bite in like yours did. I’m thinking to use a grinder to get a little taper on the nut so I can bang a 13mm extractor onto the nut. I would like to get a better quality extractor to try. Can you point me in the right direction?
I have a couple of different sets now (shallow & deep). But found this set to offer good utility & value www.amazon.ca/UYECOVE-11-Piece-Extractor-Stripped-Removing/dp/B0BPSLN7WS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2XZWAC5CG7K7E&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.yaEImPhKGMzjZ0EReF7KWSjc4ECwxfOvg3I0XK-hB-BPVx8z6a5ePruh_QZnAc46RTXmxDe8lSWirWjpdhLDNqJeslSZB8lLPFnvUDjj20fM0dxrMLKAnNhgFqIbB7Q6YxgPyGpGfo7wjKZlibtpd0lCB1P9btwHaAZzNkK1mokvqykVI5PR_i9joEqwpQztb8Rt7veCI99LEldKVa3GIA.5HcedCifObI8krilKLfavNh-pcKaSU8O3pW74NK4g78&dib_tag=se&keywords=deep+socket+extractor+set&qid=1718859702&sprefix=deep+socket+extr%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1 Here’s a short video review I did on them if your interested Damaged Fastener Extractor Kit kzread.info/dash/bejne/gZyblMmNpJPZlqQ.html Thx for watching. 🍻
I just bought a dso tc3 i am learning with your videos 🎉🎉🎉🎉😊
👍🍻
Very interesting thanks from Patrick Brasil
Thanks for watching.
It works great for checking, motel sheets, dog piss, bedbugs, scorpions, and cheating wives. 💃👈👀
Hey, it’s Canada you’ve only got 2 weeks of hot weather. Don’t sell it as long as the heating system works.🤡
32C, 90% RH today in Toronto. Not fun 🥵
Thanks Ian! My auto and lock buttons are permanently on and the switch is inoperative. If I was to get a reading like yours, would that rule out the switch and module? Trying to narrow it down, just bought a 1.6 4Grip 2007 as a doer-upper so need all the help I can get LOL. No errors stored (0000 on dash)
Honestly…I’m not sure. The control coil and temperature sensor in the rear differential clutch pack are possible culprits. Assuming your mode selector switch is operative. I highly suggest you purchase a copy (Download PDF about $30) of the shop manual. Repairmanualnow.com is an online source I have used in the past. Worth every penny. As it walks you through testing and fault isolation. Thx for watching. 🍀🍻
Thanks for sharing this.I will check and clean my sensor tomorrow.
Thx for watching 🍻
You've made the process look tempting enough for me to attempt. I also have a 2011 Grand Vitara in Ontario and the radiator has begun to leak. Do you have a regular source for getting Suzuki parts? I'm finding it more difficult as time passes. Also, if you happen to know a source or spec for those rusty 10mm bolts, that could be very helpful considering how rough mine look. Thanks.
I usually use Rockauto.com for common parts (brakes, radiators & such). Megazip.net carries tons of OEM parts for older models. Not cheap though…If you check my back catalog of videos, I recently replaced the radiator on one of my SX4’s. Consumables including The 10mm bolt details are covered, if you’re interested. Thx for watching 🍻
Looks like M6x1.0x16mm for those bolts that Suzuki uses to attach panels and mounting brackets etc. It looks like I'll be shredding a couple of those just to get the cover underneath the radiator off. The plastic clips were ok, but the bolts were rusted and seized. Seems like they use these almost everywhere. Thanks for your help.
Hello again, I was hoping that you could confirm a couple of things for me. I've done brakes and other miscellaneous things on the Vitara but not a radiator. Am I correct in assuming that those 2 narrow lines at the bottom of the radiator are the ATF lines that you remove and plug to avoid fluid loss. Next, I noticed that the 4 screws that attach the radiator to the rusty condenser brackets are pure rust. Is it ok to drill them out? Am I correct to assume that the receiving thread is part of the radiator and not the bracket? It looks to me that replacing rusted bolts and broken spring clamps is the worst part of the job. Final question (I hope) - Did you put the front end on ramps or jack stands to do this? I thought it would be easier for the under car work but might make it harder to reach some of the engine bay parts? Thanks again and I apologize if I'm coming across a little inexperienced.
No need to apologize, I am only an amateur mechanic myself. Yes the two small lines that attach to the fittings on the lower tank of the radiator are for the A/T cooling. Are far as I recall all anchor nuts are rad mounted and new ones come with the new rad. I highly recommend this Denso unit, as some cheap aftermarket stuff is very sketchy. It’s really not much more expensive. Take a good look at your new unit prior to replacement and it will clarify some concerns that may puzzle you. Go ahead, do it. You’ll be fine. Watch my video on the SX4 rad replacement again if required,as it’s considerably more detailed. Just make damn sure the system has cooled and is depressurized when you begin work. (I’m sure you know this)🍀🍻 PS: Yes the vehicle was on service ramps to facilitate repairs.
Thanks for the quick response. I was going to ask you about the Denso unit since they seem to produce a lot of OEM parts for Japanese makes. Coincidentally, I just ordered the Denso unit that you recommended. As an aside, you can actually read the Denso name and part number right on top of the radiator in my Honda. Touch wood, I'll never have to replace that one 😙. Hopefully I'll be able to get this done in a couple of weeks. Could be a week for radiator delivery. Thanks again and I'll post an update when I've successfully completed the job (I'm being an optimist here!)
I usually bring my girlfriend out for any kind of stuck nuts her small hands are perfect and she can really get a good bite on the nuts.🔩💃👈🤪
I noticed you’re tinted like me. I’m getting these fine lines towards the side view mirror that goes the whole length. Did you see anything inside the can possibly make a scrape mark like that? Thnx!
Not that I recall. Perhaps something is lodged between the glass and the seal mounted horizontally on the interior door panel which contacts the glass. Thx for watching 🍻