I'm Jami-finish carpenter and general contractor with a passion for transforming spaces from Boston to Cape Cod. My content is simply an unfiltered journey through the world of construction and carpentry.
Growing up with a love for building and creating, I've turned my passion into a career that lets me enjoy the perfect blend of craftsmanship and creativity. I'm here to share the hands-on experiences that come with being a contractor.
Whether I'm working on a major construction project, intricate woodwork, or practical DIY tips, I will only share information that I wholeheartedly stand behind.
This channel is all about down-to-earth construction wisdom that's as real as it gets.
Check out some of my work @
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I want to lay wood floor on a concrete slab, hard concrete. How could I do that with no wooden subfloor?
@@JacopoSkydweller I've ran into that twice and both times I actually put a subfloor. I put a moisture barrier and Ramset 3/4" ply down with a 6" OC pattern. Expensive and time consuming. No matter what, you'll need a moisture barrier. I would call local flooring distributors/installers and get their opinions/experience on what they would do or have done. There is probably flooring specifically designed for that. If it's a basement I would look into DRIcore subfloor.
Damnit. I feel like we been working for 10 years together laying floor like a mf. Thank you for the tips.
@@xxnoshowxx No problem!
I miss my matebo saw. I hope it’s getting some good use at least
My first couple years remodeling I used blade left and blade right skil saws and a speed square for all my trim work. And miter shears for small stuff. The skil 10” slider is a great value. Shadow line, dual bevel, depth stop. You can get it on sale for $190 a couple times a year. I was told 10”r’s are more accurate for trim but it sounds like one of those things that was true a generation ago and it no longer applies
@@chriscolameco6850 I would say it still applies. I'm just not a huge fan of 12" blade deflection. 10s definitely a safer bet IMO.
I run my own finish carpentry business, and man, as nice as my 12” dewalt compound miter saw is, I only bring it along when I absolutely NEED it, otherwise my 10” hitachi is just so much lighter and easier to pack out. I love that little saw, it’s probably over a decade old by now and it’s still routinely making me money
@@scottsterner4091 Solid little saw. This is the new Metabo cordless and I'm a huge fan. I've had that Hitachi you're talking about for 13-14 years as well. I actually cut the top off of it and mounted a table so it's a combination saw. You can find it way back in my videos or probably just search "Homemade Hitachi combination saw" and it should pop up.
Thanks for all the tips ... still hiring you to do it 😂
Finally. Someone who is worth what they do.
@@joeljay8471 Thanks!
Never seen the wedge trick before we always use those ratchet things that push off the baseboard to tighten the board
@@reidrickman9856 I only do flooring occasionally so I just whip up a few wedges. Works well. Anything else you guys would do differently on the last rows? Just curious for the future.
KZread woodworkers = Milwaukee and festool EVERYTHING Working pros = hitachi chop saw
Good to know
@@ToolswithSoAlz Thank you sir. Before I knew this, I ran a lot of combination and general purpose blades. I've noticed a difference in the quality of cuts since focusing on this feature for ~5 years now.
Man get yourself the Makita drywall saw. Every remodeler needs one. 200 bucks but hook her up to a vacuum and it’s dust free and perfect depth Not sure if it would be good for plaster though. we dont have that out here
@@andy6131 I've definitely eyeballed that thing many times but it looks hard to keep straight and I know it doesn't get tight to corners so I've been standoffish.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter the latter is true- need to still use the multi for tight corners But very easy to keep straight. Bought mine initially for patching up after a full repipe. Plumbers made a million crooked holes in the house, the drywall saw made quick work of squaring them up perfectly for the new patches to fit. Paid for itself on that job alone, still use it every week
@@andy6131 I'll keep it in mind but I love my Multi-Tool lol
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter 😂 hey if it’s working good enough, save the clutter
Thats wicked dude. One piece track? Where did you source hardware?
@@andy6131 Thank you sir. It's two 6' tracks and it's called "Rustica low clearance". My buddies client tracked them down and I would not hesitate to use them in the future. I wasn't a huge fan of the door stops themselves because they were just a small cylinder with a set screw and it's a very heavy door. The anti-jump hardware was a little bulky too. Kind of the opposite of what both should be. I'd still use it again, but I'd pursue other brands option for those two minor pieces of hardware. I have no problem mixing and matching.
Whats your go to for a compact/light stand setup? Compact dewalt and those fixed material stands? Tired of using the tailgate for quick door trims
@@andy6131 Compact DeWalt with the built-in outriggers would be ideal. I just haven't sprung the $200 for one yet considering I have 2 of the bigger ones and 2 of the compact ones with no outriggers. I would definitely prefer not to carry the material supports though. Bora portamate isn't a bad option for $80. Have had one for my cordless DeWalt for almost a decade. Can do the same setup with the sandwiched plywood and 2x outfeeds.
We don't need no hooks
That's completely wrong. The face angle is for different materials. Soft materials like plastic you want a negative hook because you don't want it ripping. Wood you'd have a positive hook because the tooth needs to slice the fibers. We ran giant 20x30 cnc saws at a plastic and dielectric insulation manufacturing plant. Probably had over 150 varieties of saw blades depending on material, depth, etc.
@@ObservationofLimits I described two separate tooth hooks for two different saws in the simplest terms possible. To say it's 'completely wrong' is a massive embellishment. I don't doubt that you know more about blades than me, but don't ignore that it's actually dangerous to run positive tooth hooks on the miter saw and negative on a table saw in a basic jobsite setting without all the material holds and feather boards. I would not encourage someone to do so. On top of that, these blades are specified for these uses. "Fine finish for slide miters", "Heavy duty ripping blade". In my experience, these blades are perfect for what they're sold for. Maybe you should write a letter to the manufacturer about why they're wrong?
When flying with tools, I don't give a second though to the Milwaukee boxes - they'll make it safe, secure, and still locked. I'm pretty sure I don't want to fly with tools in the Ridgid boxes. -------------------------------------------------- [Note: This comment is not focused on any particular "designated group" with regard to the KZread "hate speech" policies. It simply reflects the author's opinion regarding a subject, which may or may not also pertain to an individual's actions demonstrated in the video. If any such individuals belong to any of the "designated groups", any commentary included is merely incidental to that grouping and such groups are not the focus of any comments. It's pathetic that this comment is necessary for the YouTube censors.]
I kind of wrote off the 8 1/2 inch sliding saw in favor of a 12 inch sliding, I'm rethinking the 8 1/2 inch saw size now after seeing your setup. 12 really seems overkill for most of what i'd be doing with cutting down 8/4 thickness hardwoods?
@@tellyourfriendsaboutme4219 If I was cutting 8/4 hardwoods I'd lean towards a 15a saw. 10" or 12". The 8 1/2 are usually 9-12a. You'll want more torque than that. You can still run the same outfeed setup.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter thanks that's helpful, I was looking at the DWS779 as most of my use is chop cuts and simple 45 degree cuts. More of a homeowner/woodshop use case than trim carpenter but i'd like the capability to do some crown on a renovation
@@tellyourfriendsaboutme4219 You can cut crown on the flat with smaller saws. 31.6⁰ miter and 33.9⁰ bevel will give you a 45⁰ on most common spring angles. A lot of saws will have the detents for it. In my opinion, the 779 is the best saw for the money. Fairly often you can find it on sale with a free DeWalt miter stand for $400. It's a lot of saw but it sounds like you want to do a few different things so I'd hate to recommend a smaller saw and have you run into an application where it wasn't capable enough.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter I'll keep an eye out for the sale, great advice appreciate you
@@tellyourfriendsaboutme4219 No problem sir.
This is a great video mate! You have a great collection of mitre saws! Love the amount of effort and detail you went to, to make this!
@@DaveDoesCarpentry Thanks Dave! Really appreciate you checking it out.
Great Content, thank you. I have a technical question. Once opening up that section, couldn't you shimmy your drips underneath the sheathing and hardi to create that proper lap? then only back caulk the sides? purely curious! Thanks
Thanks! Yes you can. With this type of snap in cover I don't think it would be worth it though. You would need to trim the front edge of your drip cap almost entirely away and it would be dumping the water in the same place anyway. If I made a custom vent, I would drip cap it the same as any window or door trim.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter we are about to switch our non functional to functional vents on already cladded hardie about 140 of them 😳 going to present this application and see what the engineer says hehehe thank youuuuu
@@lcbseyf5430 He probably won't love that it relies on a silicone bead for waterproofing. There are functional flat trim frame gable end vents that can be flashed with traditional drip cap. I would probably lean that direction. Cuts just need to be flawless.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter see, this is why KZread rocks. Thanks!
@@lcbseyf5430 No problem, thanks for watching.
This info is spot on!! Thanks
@@Jackman8594 No problem!
Lol that's crap ..
@@Gunter_Custom How so? Go put the +20⁰ hook table saw blade on your miter saw and tell me how it goes.
you should get off youtube for a while considering what kind of "crap" youre subbed to
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenterignore them, people gotta seek attention as always lol
All my tape mesures have play at the end where the hook is rivited on throwing off the mesurment about 2 or 3mm
@@BikerBenny That play is an intentional feature for getting the same measurement when you press the tip into an inside corner and then pull the tape from the outer edge of material. It shouldn't be throwing your measurements off unless it's worn out or the tape is cheap/defective.
Great video, do you own all those saws? Beautiful yard btw
Thank you! Yes these are my saws. Over 10 years of experiments and upgrades.
Hey I just need thin low baseboard in my basement, can I use that as a stand alone?
@@cmargo10 Absolutely. I would just double check that the 1 3/8" height will cover any lower imperfections that may be on the wall. This exact sash molding is also available in PVC at a very reasonable price. If your basement is susceptible to moisture or if this molding will be sitting directly on concrete/tile, or maybe in an area that you plan on mopping, I would recommend using the PVC option.
@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter that’s good to know. It’s on lvp floor and drywall is only up to a half inch at most from lvp so I don’t want to spend much at all on baseboard down there. I actually was gonna get quarter round! This looks a lot better!
@@cmargo10 The PVC is actually cheaper than wood. You should be able to find it at your local home depot for $1 per foot. $12 for a 12' and $7 for 7'. Search- "Royal Mouldings Colonial Series 12 ft. x 1-1/4 in. x 3/8 in. Cellular Vinyl Stop Molding" on home Depot website to check it out. Just be sure to only nail the upper half when installing, otherwise it will want to draw the bottom of the molding into that 1/2" gap and won't look good. If you find that it's tilting into that gap, I recommend putting some slivers of 1/2" material in there every ~2' to hold it out so it sits properly on the wall.
Extremely well conceived and compendious presentation. Lots of valuable practical tips. A few thoughts --- Regarding coping of base using vertical partial cuts where one wall is out of plumb: walls can often more easily be shimmed to plumb using a flathead screw as micro-adjustable shim than by bothering to cut the straight portion of the cope to the uncorrected angle. As a pro trim guy, my preferred jobsite MS arsenal comprises: 7 1/4" 20V for punchlist and small scale jobs; corded 12" compound non-slider with Forrest or equal full-kerf blade for serious trim work; and track saw for cuts too lengthy for the non-slider. I find the non-sliders, by design, have less lateral play than sliders, and that a shop-built dust hood for one can be much more compact and efficient than with a slider. If I was doing more stair work, I'd consider a 12" slider, probably Makita. To spend Kapex money and end up with the limits of a 10" (proprietary!) blade is nkot a route I'd be willing to go. As for laps and dados: If this is an op you do much, I'd advise throwing $150 at a trim router, 1/2" bit, and speed square, rather than allowing that need to push you, perhaps unnecessarily, into a slider. Overall, I continue to feel that Dewalt saws offer the best quality bang for the buck.
Thanks! I agree that DeWalt has the best bang for the buck. I also agree that fixed miter saws can prove to be more accurate than sliders. I've done a lot of stair work with my old 8 1/2" Hitachi. The blade size doesn't seem to matter as much as long as it has a 12" capacity. The Makita 40v 10" or 8 1/2" is potentially my next saw. I appreciate you watching as well as providing feedback!
@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter Few YT posters put in the time and thought you obviously did to create this video. And further, you qualified your opinions, some of which naturally differ from my own, by providing context by openly stating the type of work you do and acknowledging that others with different needs might want to make other choices. IMO your video sets a high standard of both production values and editorial humility that others would do well to emulate. What's "best" in tools is fluid, according to how well a given weapon matches the target at hand.
@@michael.schuler I really appreciate that. A lot of thought definitely goes into these.
.@@Tool_Addicted_Carpenter Quality over quantity definitely cuts across the grain of our time... Hope you can keep it up.
@@michael.schuler I'll do my best. Obviously videos like this are a one-off thing. It's not necessarily something that needs to be re-done for many years unless there's a rapid and dramatic shift in saw sizes/cut capacities, which I don't anticipate any time soon. Some of my long form videos won't be on this level and some may cater to pros while others cater to DIYs. No matter what, I'll always keep it as honest and informative as possible.
I want lids that can come off but with a button or something, otherwise still click to stay open
I mistakenly missed a key feature! Shadow lines and laser lines. Shadow lines are my preference by far for accuracy and visibility. Lasers are definitely better than nothing, but they can be more difficult to see in the glaring sun. Neither are necessary features, just convenient for initial alignment. *A second feature I didn't cover was dust collection. They're all pretty mediocre. Just assume the worst and hope for the best. I usually bend the metal inside the dust collection bags to face more downward so gravity holds the dust better. *Note: Makita does offer a 6 1/2" fixed saw and Evolution offers an 8 1/4" fixed saw on the US market. They are very niche, I have never seen them used, and I personally don't see any reason for purchasing them over a 7 1/4" or 10".
Any opinions on single line laser, dual line laser, or shadow lines?
@@csbarbourv Oh wow I totally messed up. I was supposed to mention that. Shadow line is by far my preference. Laser is better than nothing though.
Crazy how much info you packed in, great stuff
Thanks!
Smart man
@@timh7156 Thank you sir. I appreciate you running through the channel and checking everything out.
Great idea. You do really nice work
@@timh7156 Thanks again!
Great tips. I like the bent blade tip. Never thought to do that.
Pass on the fancy tips, buy a drill dr. It is worth the investment, you can sharpen bits till theres nothing left of them, break it off grind it flat and the drill dr. Will put a tip on it.
@@mechsupernova Drill doctors definitely have their place. Multiple different shops had them when I was in school. However, based on my experience with traditional split points, I still recognize the value of these step tip bits.
Couldnt you just in theory be drilling onto metal into wood to avoid from your problem?
@@user-yr2we2tm8r Yes, but that doesn't completely eliminate all snapping or dulling.
Great work! Awesome to watch your skills.
@@miawallace6439 Thank you! I appreciate that.
using a toothless blade for plaster seems like a good way to recycle burnt up blades i have laying around. i usually just use the grout removal blades
@@YayFlyingCat I've heard grout removal blades work well. I'm sure they would do better on some harder plaster.
Thanks for the video, beautiful work!
@@alin224 My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Nice work! 🫡 Appreciate the compilation video.
@@reallywittycatchyname Thank you and no problem! I appreciate you watching.
This is just to show that there's no right or wrong way to replicate something, just be confident in your capabilities and think outside the box. Obviously if you had to make a lot of a one trim, you'll want a fabrication shop to make a custom router/shaper bit, but that's not usually necessary. Also, I know some of you long term followers may have already seen these, I just wanted to consolidate some older videos.
Yod clean up? ❤😂
I thought this was mark wahlberg lol
How do we know it isn’t??
Worked perfectly. Stacked 10-12' brush up, compressed it down a little, chopped into 3rds in one pass with the chainsaw, and right to the burning pit.
My favorite are cobalt no substitute love them they last so much longer than others. Step drill :)
@@jbman413 I had the Milwaukee cobalt meant for metal but they were worse than the DeWalt titanium coated that weren't even specified for metal. These are cobalt with the step tip which is why I wanted to check them out. So far so good.
Point grind for a flat bottom w/small pilot. (More of a web thinning protrusion).
The whole/hole trick. Is keeping the edge into the cut (material). Bounce or skipping= chipping. Soo slow is a strong engagement. Pro tip: lubrication yo.
@@par4par72 Slow and steady works, but running the drill on the torque setting is also when the bits are more likely to snap. These holes were lubricated.
It's a Cobalt material drill. You need to pilot drill 1/16 then do the body size ..for construction iron. Center punch first for position accuracy.
@@par4par72 The other metal drill bits shown are cobalt. I was just showing the step tip because I've never seen anyone else mention them. 1/16 bits break pretty easily and if you can avoid needing a pilot hole then you're saving time.
Interesting!
@@csbarbourv I agree
Why did you put the bumpers in the dados? Does that prevent rattling while keeping things tight?
@@csbarbourv Hey Charles! It was to make sure that the panels stayed closer to center during assembly and operation. There was about 3/16" gap all the way around. Without the bumpers, if one panel dominated one side, while the other dominated the other side, it's feasible that the v-grooves could end up misaligned by upwards of 3/8". I figured these 1/8 bumpers would help prevent that during assembly, as well as any possible future issues, while still providing some give for any possible expansion. It is MDF though, so the panels should be pretty stable. I'm not a door builder, so I can't speak on the exact way that this should be done. I am pretty confident that they're effective in my application. Thank you for watching sir!
I got the 13 amp 4.5-6" harbor freight grinder on sale for like $60. Things a beast, I can lean most of my bodyweight onto it and it doesn't stall out.
@@chriscolameco6850 That's a good versatile size. Any bigger in the 7-9" range and it turns into a more task specific grinder. 13 amps is the move too so you're not always tripping breakers. I have an old school 15a Milwaukee for my 7" cupping wheel and I usually need to track down a 20a outlet.
You can also bend it with pliers it also makes it easier to fit on your belt you don’t use the belt.
@@ItDANinja Many of my DeWalt clips are bent with pliers. I just wanted something more versatile on a tool that I probably use the most.