Welcome to JBWorxStudio,
this channel is dedicated to the creation of fun projects for your entertainment and inspiration.
You will find content related to Woodworking, CNC Machining, CAD/CAM using Vectric, PathPilot, Eding CNC and Fusion 360. The making of jigs, fixtures and tools for your shop as well as art related objects like jewelry, pens, bottle stoppers and much more.
My focus is always the easy explanation of what I am doing and why I am doing it this way.
Disclaimer: The videos are for entertainment purposes only, seek professional advise before attempting to replicate anything I do on KZread.
-ABOUT-
I am originally from Germany and after my metalworking, machine building apprenticeship education I ventured to college and received a degree in Manufacturing and Automation. During this time I very much enjoyed working for a master Goldsmith that inspired me to see objects not only from a standpoint of functionality but also perfection and beauty.
Пікірлер
You have a variable speed saw, will this blade work on a saw with no variable speed? Thanks.
Yes it will. I have run it full speed as well but the chips flying off are hotter so wear a long sleeve shirt. But the blade will do it no problem.
@@JBWorx Great. I don't have variable speed ability. Thanks.
@braddowns2423 you bet 👍
I have a 12CFM vac pump for composite work that is also the oil mist variety. I knew going into it that mist would be expelled, but the first time you do it indoors, there's going to be a film on Everything. That was a one-time mistake. I've since added a DIY mist recovery valve and accumulator system that will eventually get a scavenge pump, filter, etc., just to try to turn it into a recirc system. I've pondered going with a sort of vac table for the CNC, but assuming the workpiece will fit, I have an old setup for a vacuum chamber that I will reassemble as a top cover, block off the access to whatever is open on my table, and let the pump run on the workpiece. Only problem that would require a fairly elaborate routing would be an air-cooling loop for the cnc motor, at which point I would consider moving to a liquid-chilled system. Sounds like a lot of work when I normally just run toe vise clamps or sacrificial adhesives on thin stock that I'm having a hard time getting past for justification other than Cool factor.
Adding a vac plate is nice - BUT ! It has its limitations. The main advantage is to hold down thin larger stock that, for example, could not be held down with toe clamps. Instead of going through all that trouble I like to suggest you make a prototype vac plate for the parts you normally make and use your shop vac as a pump. This can give you an idea if you like working with an vac setup or prefer the regular clamping. Hope this helps.
Ma men u are ok 😊
👍👍
Thanks for making this video, yeah omron micro switch is my choice for my desktop CNC & all 3D printers came with it. Well done so no need to upgrade omron micro switch is good enough.❤
Yes, I think the durability, price and accuracy cannot be beat.
@@JBWorx thanks bro. Awesome test and great CNC stuff. My kind of channel. Subscribed ❤️
Perfect 👍
Thank you
Glad you like it
Great tips, keep up the good work...im impressed
Thank you Martin
Bratwurst
Yep
Thank you for an excellent tutorial. You indirectly answered a question I could not find the answer to. It was not necessary to run the Dogbone Filleter Gadget because the Box Creator added it to the toolpath. Thanks again.
Your welcome, I am glad you liked it
Thank you.
Thanks for reaching out
What kind of paste?
Paste? Maybe you mean the glue? It is CA Glue or superglue.
very nice, what type of super glue are you using?
I use Starbond medium black. Not every accelerator works with it so it would be best to use theirs.
@@JBWorx Thank you I appreciate your prompt response. I love that you have a KAPEX to cut your stock. I have one too and I am still getting used to it.
I think it’s awesome to cut aluminum. I also use the same blade to cut plastic / Delrin and I am very happy with it.
Would love to make one of these
I think it’s a really handy tool to have, I don’t use mine all the time but for some work it is really really good to have.
Nice content! I bought mine but can't find the instructions about how to install it on the mach3 board.
I don’t know what board you are using so I cannot tell you how to connect it. Look for the probe input terminals and make sure you connect the signal correctly to be either + or - so that nothing gets damaged.
Ausgezeichnet, Superklasse, vielen Dank für das Teilen von so viel wertvoller information. Herzliche Grüße. Sascha Nowak
Danke dir Sascha für dein Feedback
my problem have not can install gadgets, version 8, but gadget not have selection "install new gadget" and has try add box creator gadget to gadget file folder, no working.
So you can go directly on the Vectric website and download the gadget.
Amazing! We can s custom-supply the CNC cutter at the best price, no matter what materials. pls contact me if you need it, tks.
Amazing! We can s custom-supply the CNC cutter at the best price, no matter what materials. pls contact me if you need it, tks.
Amazing! We can s custom-supply the CNC cutter at the best price, no matter what materials. pls contact me if you need it, tks.
Perfect ! Can you contact me via my website JBWorxstudio.com please.
Amazing! We can s custom-supply the CNC cutter at the best price, no matter what materials. pls contact me if you need it, tks.
super erklärt. bitte mehr davon!
Danke dir !
looks like you used 6mm moosgummi. how deep and wide did you make the channels?
I stumbled on your KZread channel a few months ago wile making research on how to cut aluminum with my CNC. I found a lot of very useful information thanks to your detailed videos that I find excellent. I have sometimes good results and other time bad results. Your design described here looks very promising for me to cool things down and I went ahead and ordered all the components to try to reproduce your idea. I started with the electronic and I have everything working with what I think is exactly the components you have except for the peristaltic pump where the pump is driven by a Nema 11 instead of a Nema 17 that you have. When running the pump, the motor driver gets very hot even with the heat sink, stopping the pump on and off; probably a safety feature when the chip gets too hot. I haven’t put all the electronic in a box yet and everything is fine when I blow some air on the chip and I will probably have to install a fan to cool down the motor driver. I see you didn’t mention anything about it, but did you get any similar problem with your set-up after using it for a while and if so, how did you resolve the issue?
Yes the chip does get hot but the heat sink takes care of it. Even stuck inside the box it never shuts down. I suspect the amp draw of your motor is too high. So one of my viewers reported that he found a “all in one” driver and amplifier on Amazon. I have it here to test but have not accomplished that yet. Search for “stepper motor driver controller integrated board forward / reverse” it is sold by Banria store. I will place another response below this trying to add a link.
Stepper Motor Driver Controller... www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1HNS9L2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@JBWorx I've seen that one on Amazon and ordered it a while ago. Had to return it as it was OK for high speed, but as soon as I was slowing the motor down it would stop. Don't know if it has to do again because the motor is drawing too much amp.
Yes that can happen. Making the motor run smooth on a slow rpm is not always possible with every amplifier. So instead of guessing it would be best to simply place a volt meter set to amps in series. This way you will exactly know that the draw if the motor is.
@@JBWorx Thanks for the advice, I will try the voltmeter as mentioned. The stepper is a Moon's Industries ms11hs5l4100 and it is rated at 1 amp.
Thanks for the explanation. I have a 4 x 8 machine with a 2.2kw spindle. I need to make a top brace like what you have on your machine. Seems like that would really stiffen up the spindle. It could also be used when traming the spindle. Overall great video/ thanks a ton.
Yes the top bracket is a good improvement that really helps to reduce vibration in heavier cuts. Thanks for reaching out.
All talk and no show.
Yes this has a lot of information in it. The cutting is in part 2. Also have a look on my channel there are plenty of Aluminium cutting videos.
A
It has been a long time since the first time I saw your videos about tuning servo motors, these two videos will definitely have a great impact on people who want to find answers to their own questions, the basics of servo motors and servo drives are very broad, that you From a cheap product, you got better efficiency and efficiency than expected. It is remarkable and admirable. And a supplementary explanation, which I hope can help other people, is that in the new version (2.4.4) of the JMC software, the problem of calculating the inertia ratio has been fixed, and it is possible to calculate the inertia ratio of the motor through the d22 J-L parameter through the software. In the General Monitor tab, viewing and actually using this servo motor series on devices with higher axis weight is facilitated.
Thank you so much for pointing this out. That is really good information.
Is the probing done via the MDI tab or is it done by a file within the cnc macro file?
I use a Marco. Eding CNC provides a very basic macro however if you get involved how the probing works you can extend on the existing one.
How do you bring up a command to start the probing?
Eding provides a user menu. Here you can assign a button to a Macro / or basically call up routine in the file called macro.cnc
@@JBWorx I tried to probe a work piece using MDI such as F30 G38.5 X30 when the probe touched the part there is no retraction of the probe and the accuracy is down to 0.25 which I am not happy about.
@SmokeRings-eg7md you do need to calibrate the probe. I use a calibration ring but if you have a ball bearing that will work as well. I do not use the MDI command for probing but it is possible.
Do you have the sample g code for your thread mill operation?
I posted this a while ago so I did not keep the G-Code sorry.
Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge. I visit your channel every week. I really like the design of your cnc router and would like to know what type/size of aluminium profiles have you used to build the base frame and gantry x-axis also the size of the linear rails/blocks you have employed.
Excellent ! For the frame parts have a look at the Misumi web site. I like the heavy extrusions. I think it’s the HFSG 6-6060. For the guides have a look at HIWIN HGH 25 CA. Have fun building your machine !!
JBWorxStudio, you can remove the mill scale on steel by pickling it in vinegar or citric acid for a day or so. also its surprising you cant get hot rolled pickled and oiled (P&O) steel in the states.
Yes I am familiar with the pickle process we used hydrochloric acid where I worked … probably too dangerous for home use but same concept. Oh I am sure you can buy hot rolled without scale is just that the vendor I buy from does not carry it - unfortunately.
I think before I’d reduce the DOC for some of these examples, I would make every attempt to reduce the stick out as much as possible. It looks like most of these cuts were done with a stick out of 5 or 6 times the diameter of the bit, which is excessive and will lead to increased deflection at the end of the bit. If you did the same cut using a 1” LOC bit, then repeat with a 1/2” LOC bit, the results are going to be better with the shorter cut length every time. The top of the bit is held in place with the collet, the bottom of the bit is engaged in the material - the total amount of the bit in the middle that is doing neither is wasted potential rigidity.
That is certainly true and a good point that is often overlooked. However not all of us are going to have the ideal tool for every part we make. Most of my tools require a 20mm DOC hence the longer flutes. Here I make a part that is only 6mm thick and I will not go and buy an extra tool for that. However in a perfect world it is desirable to use a tool as short as possible. Thanks for your comment !
Great info. What are you using to hold your stock? Tape and CA? Thank you!
Yes in most cases when I have to cut out the entire part I use tape and CA. So far this method has been solid. Thanks for reaching out.
Thank you!
👍
Don't worry about breathing alcohol. I drink lots of it and I'm fine (more or less)
lol 😂
you may want to mention Every compression bit has a different depth it must be plunged into the surface to cut cleanly. this is where the flutes change direction. also that when you don't use are blast, fast enough speed, or dust collection that the bit will heat up and fail in short order as you are recutting chips manty times. I realize this was for instruction but beginners may not.
Yes this is a very important point that you make. Thank you 👍
thank you!
And thank you for leaving me a note !
Hello! Where can I buy just this black fixtures that you mount on the vice? Thanks in advance. Good job and greetings from Poland. ;-)
Have a look at Mitee-bites distributors in the EU. I know they are available in Germany as some friends have them but I don’t know the vendor.
just make a parametric model in fusion. voila. done.
The point of this video is that you don’t have to design anything. It’s the easiest and fastest way to make a box.
@@JBWorx you just have to buy a specific machine and use specific software with specific add ons. Or you can use fusion, or any parametric modeling software, which already has a box generator, and post the code to any machine. With a full suite of options so your tabs and joints actually fit. But hey. Shill on.
Ok
@@JBWorx just the facts.
Certainly a good option if you make boxes of various sizes all day long.
Great videos as always!
Thank you Stefan
I've been using my CNC for about 8 months now and haven't been happy with any work holding method, this seems like a great idea. Now, if I could figure out how to make my bench perfectly flat then I'd be in a better place as well.
I think there is not “one fits all” work holding. Thin stock versus thick or metal versus plastic need possibly different methods of holding the workpiece down. If you have repetitive work it becomes also a matter of efficiency. I think I use the CA and tape method the most followed by the direct clamping from the top. Have you watched my video on work holding? I think it has value.
You never said how much the little micro switch that's made in Japan and use them Toyotas assembly line cost?
There are different plunger versions available and the cost is around $100.
Hallo, ich bin durch Zufall auf Deinen Kanal gekommen...ich hab mal ein Abo da gelassen, weil mir Die Art gefällt, wie du dein Vorhaben rüberbringst.👍
Super! Danke dir !
hallo, wo bekomm ich die Informationen her, über Alu, dass auf der Fräse gut zu bearbeiten ist? Ich bin zwar Metaller, aber diese Alu-Sorten sind doch sehr verwirrend...
Hi, also im Fachkunde Buch Metall findest du dazu gute Infos. Aber natürlich viel einfacher sich online. Versuch mal “Bearbeitbarkeit von Aluminium” bei Google oder Bing da findest du einiges. In Deutschland beschreiben wir diese Legierungen oft als “Automaten Legierungen” sind also extra für die Zerspanung hergestellt.
Zu meiner Antwort versuche ich hier noch einen link www.aluservice.de/ratgeber/aluminium/welche-aluminiumlegierung-zum-fraesen/#:~:text=Gut%20zerspanbar%20sind%20zum%20Beispiel%20Aluminiumlegierungen%20wie%3A%20AlMg4%2C5Mn,Automatenlegierungen%20AlCuMgPb%2C%20AlMgSiPb%20sowie%20auch%20AlCuBiPb%20oder%20AlCuMg1.
I use Eding software and controller and I have ordered a touch probe same as yours. This may sound like a dumb question but how do you make the axis move toward the stylus? I am sure it wont be the jog function.
Cool ! Not many use Eding, and I think it’s such a good controller / software. So you have built in functions for probing. Go into the user menu (it’s the icon with the head) you find them there. There is also a bit of set up to do so the dimensions are correct. Too much to explain here but it’s covered in the manual.
@@JBWorx The only soft button I see here is for the tool setter, this will only move the Z axis, I need a soft button to command the Y and X axis.
Hi, thanks for the great information. With the isopropyl, is that just a straight mix? also just watched your part 2. I have been using single flute DLC upcut bits from a local supplier (chinese made going from the price). Is it really worth the extra for the Datron bits? I almost fell over when i saw the difference in price? I am still experimenting with different bits, lubricant&air, air only, no air (recently - just to help my dust extractor - though not having success with the cutters lasting). It sounds like i need to reduce air mister pressure and try alcohol for the lubricant. I have recently been experiencing what you are talking about as the cuts get deeper and chip evacuation, the air is a must. Great, clear information on both videos - Thanks!
So if you can get the project done using your current bit and you are happy with the surface finish I would not change. I tested several different bits in aluminum and the Datron is the best in plunging and longevity. So for me yes it’s worth it. It’s straight Alkohol no dilution and yes you don’t need much air pressure as this will atomize the fluid and that is what is not desirable. Thx for your comment.
Love your videos! Really informative. One suggestion would be to add the number of flutes in your cut examples. I know you've discussed it in the beginning, but it's hard to remember unless jumping back and forth of the video. Having the flute numbers together with your feed and speed specs is important in my opinion.
Yes it is! Good point thx for the suggestion !!!
I'm watching from Korea. Thank you for the content. I recently assembled a CNC and it's not working due to controller issues, but I'm watching and learning from your videos while waiting for a new controller. Anyway, good content thanks. By the way, what is the difference between mounting a z-axis probe?
It is amazing to see people from all over the world tuning in. Thank you for leaving me a note. However I don’t understand your question.
I cannot begin to tell you how much I appreciate your thoroughness in your presentations. You are an excellent teacher and your content is superb. I'm brand new to CNC, bought a RatRig Pro and will be studying all (ahem, ALL) of your videos. THANK YOU!
James, thank you for reaching out and providing me this feedback it keeps me motivated.
Is this your own design entirely or have got some inspiration from somewhere? In any case that is fantastic.😮
I saw this joint first on „flat pack furniture“ and really liked it. Honestly I spend too much time on the design in fusion 360 and once I was finished I saw that aribabox here on KZread is selling plans for a very similar design. I would have bought his plans if I had seen them earlier.
@JBWorx Well what would be the fun in that? For me the "journey" is worth almost as gratifying as the end goal. I guess it's the nature of the maker/tinkerer. Wanted to tell you also, I watched the entire series "beginner to pro" 👌 keep them coming.
Yes I know what you mean. Going from an idea to a finished part in your hands can be very rewarding. Thx for watching my contend.
Could you please share the macro?
I am using the standard Eding CNC Macro at this time. It’s part of the Eding Software.