Welcome to Shorewood Bee Nice! This channel follows the journey of a beginner beekeeper as they explore the fascinating world of beekeeping. Join us as we learn about everything from setting up hives to harvesting honey, and all the challenges and joys in between. Our goal is to not only become successful beekeepers but to also promote the importance of bees in our ecosystem. So come along for the ride and let's Bee Nice to our buzzing friends!
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Great job! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge !
Hopgard too, it also kills hive beetles, AND can be used with honey supers on...
I use clove oil and origano oil wipe the floor using clve and oriano sparingly and wipe over the top bars i got rid of the mites in mi hive and best of it is you can use this any time of year ❤ aw and organic coconut water in the water feeders gives them a wonderful boost xx
Good job, just a couple things to help you. You have your entrance upside down, bees should be able to walk in rather than climb over the entrance and should you be using the small entrance on the other side of the same piece until the Bee population rises, new Colonies are not strong enough to defend the large entrance effectively against persistent intruders.
Never Heard of a Green Frame Before. Thanks 🙏
In Scotland I work by frames of brood not drawn frames. Potentially very misleading to use that method. Frames of brood are much more accurate. I add a 2nd BB on 8 frames of brood and they take off. Also in poly hives the frame nearest a wall will be the first one to be drawn out. Bees love to be warm and cosy. ;)
It’s just the opposite in our climate, the bees won’t build the outer frames because it’s too hot ,the bees like to be cooler when it’s 112 degrees Fahrenheit or 44.44 degrees C if you are metric, if my bees don’t have all of their frames drawn out by march they won’t touch the outer frames that season because they want to be cool and not toasty 😝🤘🏼
Very helpful for a beginner like myself!
Sorry to hear your colony didn’t make it but that’s just bee keeping Im a commercial bee keeper here in California and usually 20 percent of the bees die over the winter sucks but it can be better if you treat your bees a lot id look in to a oxalic acid vaporizer works really well had some bees on my experimental yard this year and treated them all with oxalic acid vapor had a 97% survival rate. Glad to see you didn’t give up on bee keeping keep it up!!
These are blessings of the creator Allah on human. All praises and worships are to Allah.
Nice! Like you i started last year and lost the hive to mites they actually absconded do to low bee count. Getting a nuc Tuesday 🎉
Hey sorry to hear that you lost your hive, good luck with your nuc!
Great video. You might consider feeding them 1:1 sugar water for a bit to help them along until they really get rolling. I just put my nucs out a couple days ago, on Thursday.
Thanks for the tip!
too so to add second box. they won't drawn out the lower empties now they'll move to center upper, best to have waited
Thanks for the feedback :)
Do you watch Fred Dunn or Kamon Reynolds ? Those two guys are really good to get tips from, the way to bee is Fred’s platform and he has all kinds of guest interviews with entomologists and experts in the bee field and Fred responds to questions, which after 50 years you would think I’ve ran out of questions to ask as far as bees are concerned , but this is not true , I still have plenty of questions 😊
I watch Fred Dunn, can't say I've seen any of Kamon Reynolds stuff, but it's really good/helpful content. Thanks for the suggestion
Dawn dish liquid works instantly and it’s cheaper than alcohol if you are looking for ways to save money raising bees 😊
Did the queen get rolled in one of your inspections?
I won't rule it out as a possibility, but the fact that they swarmed makes me suspicious. I'm confused why they would swarm with a new queen if the old one died.
@@ShorewoodBeeNice I’ve been keeping bees for over 50 years and I’m still learning and still getting surprised by bees and seeing things I’ve never seen so , be prepared for never knowing bees 100% lol I have an example , this fall was the first time in my life where I was doing fall cleaning and putting nucs and boxes away for the winter and I had picked up two 5 frame nucs out of my Apiary and I sat them outside my honey shack and two days later I noticed a baseball size ball of bees and I went to just brush the bees off and put the frames away and I will be damned if there wasn’t a fresh mated queen the first week of November and she had 2-1/2 frames with full brood patterns and by the end of November the nuc was full of bees, honey and more winter bees , the baseball size ball of bees with a good queen and the fact that there was enough resources left in November in southern Maryland to fill the nuc made me A) shocked B) more shocked and C) fall isn’t too late for a split if you have drawn frames. This is just an example of never knowing 100% of what bees are capable of , it ended up being one of my best and favorite colonies, they are extremely gentle and feral!! You will probably be able to catch bees around your property now that you are keeping bees , bees attract bees so I would put an empty hive out in your yard and you could very well catch your feral bees , just put 3 drawn frames in it and eventually you’ll probably catch a swarm in your yard :)
@@DavidWilliams-wr4wb Dang! I'll give this a try! Would be really cool to catch a swarm!
I made a comment on your other video same subject, if you take some of the frames from the first box and put them in the new box they will build up faster , two weeks they would of been popping like popcorn in the new box , and I did hear the queen piping in the video
I really do appreciate the advice, I'm excited to try things a little differently this season.
In my experience instead of just adding a box of frames take a frame or two brood frames from existing box put them in the center of the new top box and they will start working the second box right away, the brood will hatch and within 3 weeks your second brood box will look healthy and be well on its way for winter ahead
Thanks for the tip! I'll definitely try that this season
How can one harvest the honey?
Great question. You can extract the honey by taking a frame of honey, cutting the wax caps off, and then processing it using a honey extractor, which is a sort of centrifuge that spins the honey out of the comb. Alternatively you can do what’s called the crush and strain method, where you crush the honey comb and put it in a strainer over a bowl. That method is probably the oldest method known for collecting honey!
You should always look out for the queen
I always keep an eye out, but sometimes it’s just not possible to find her quickly enough or even necessary, depending on your inspection goals.
I’m always looking, ever since I rolled a queen 50 years ago I never want to do it again 😅
I am started honey bee keeping. Please send me some information for honey bees .indian bee keeping is very very low conditions
Hey! I'm afraid I don't know much about the Indian climate with regards to bee keeping. My best advice would be to seek out a local bee keeper who knows your area to offer more specific advice. Good luck!
What happened? Its been a while since you last posted a video. I want to start beekeeping and have been following your progress since you began and been loving every video. Still keeping bees? Hope you will start to post more videos again soon :)
Hey! Thank you so much for following along! I am still keeping bees, although this colony did collapse when it got really cold this winter. I'll be starting again in the spring with a nuc, and will start posting videos again then about it, so stay tuned!
@@ShorewoodBeeNice Awe too bad. Looking forward to following you starting a new colony though. Trying to gather as much info as I can before I get myself my first colony. I worry most about the varroa mites. Been looking into all sorts of none chemical treatments like heat treatment. Bees survive higher temps than mites. Also looking into queen cages with drone frames inside. This will draw most mites into the drone frames that you can then put into the freezer before they hatch. Id like to not use any chemicals for mite treatment. I have a couple of good yt vids if interested. But thank you. Looking forward to videos of your new colony.
@@ShorewoodBeeNice you should start at least three colonies, because if you’re trying to get through winter inevitably you’ll have colonies collapse /die and if you have 3 your odds go up to have at least one to three colonies the next season and you’ll have something to work with to do splits with if two of your 3 colonies die you’ll have one to do two splits with the next season and that will make it easier to have consistent colonies in spring, I’ve been losing about 6 colonies a year so I have to do those splits to keep the amount of hives I want to work consistent, as long as you have a few colonies your chances of getting through winter with the amount of bees you want to keep goes up and splitting your overwinter survivors will give you better odds of keeping bees over the winter , I have had friends that only keep one colony and their one colony died every winter and they bought a package every spring to replace their lost colony/ package, the only reason I’m saying this is I watched two friends buy a package every year and they got discouraged after they died every winter, so your odds go up significantly by keeping at least 3 , until you have a surplus of fully drawn frames it is almost a failure 99% of the time to overwinter with just one colony and when you start your season and you provide drawn frames for your package the season will go much smoother and take much less sugarfeed when the frames are already built from the start of the season ,I hope this makes sense 😎
@@DavidWilliams-wr4wb Thank you, this makes perfect sense. I probably don't have the room for 3 right now, but I will look into setting up a 2nd hive.
@@ShorewoodBeeNice if you have room for a bench 16” hi 20”wide by 8ft. Long you can put 4 -10 frame deeps on the bench and boom!!! You have enough room for 4 colonies 😁🍯😎🐝
I appreciate the swarm or orientation flight information Thanks!
No problem! Thanks for watching!
I like this
Thank you!
why bees makes a chain? to measure the distance... learn something about bees before get some :) I'm a newbee to beekeeping but before I got some bees I studied a lot about them because I want healthy colony.
Hi, that’s one probable reason that bees do that, but the scientific community hasn’t settled on a definite answer yet for all scenarios. Certainly interesting nonetheless
@@ShorewoodBeeNice czech got a long tradition of beekeeping for centuries, believe me in this, and this is an old public wisdom...not some secret :D
Unfortunately this false logic in my opinion,I run 200 hives all with drone foundation,I don’t think the mites are that clever to pick dronecomb,I find the mites in braced drone Comb but very little in drone frames,I ve not treated my bees for 8 years and give them a brood break ,unfortunately varroa is endemic and some thing you have to live with,producing drones takes a lot of resources for the colony and you’ll get very poor mating if you destroy it all and put the colony out of balance, the most important thing in my mind is to have bees that don’t produce brood 12 months of the year and which are locally adapted.good luck
thanks for the insight!
I suspect you did have a swarm. Although the cell was not in the usual "Swarm" position, bees will sometimes swarm when a queen cell is capped, even if it was not the classic "bottom of the frame" cell. This is especially true on the first clear day after a rainy period. Generally, the old queen will be the one leaving with the swarm, and as I said before, more often when the cell is capped, not when it hatches. For whatever reason, sugar feed seems to kick this up a notch. After 27 years of beekeeping, I have learned that bees rarely follow any rule book! Usually the queen lays up a storm, then takes off when the first queen cell is capped. By the time the new queen emerges, there are plenty of new bees to tend to her. The cell you found looks like one that has had a queen emerge from it. The fact that she is piping may indicate there is a second virgin in the hive. If all goes well, you should see eggs returning in a week or two. Good luck with them. PS: Swarms usually cluster close to the hive in a nearby tree, but depart once a new location is found. This is often about a mile from the original hive.
Thank you so much! Totally makes sense, I just wish I could have been there to see it and capture the swarm
I follow you idea with some scepticism, yes we need the drones for some obvious reasons but could it be fantastic to temporarily isolate them for varroa treatment before releasing into the colony
I'm not sure how that would work, but maybe! I'd be interested to see if someone has tried something like that
Shorewood wouldn't be Illinois by any chance? I'm a keeper near there so it would be great to share
No, I'm in the Pacific Northwest, sorry!
Fra too long an inspection, too much smoke..How to stress bees.
I always turn the feeder box upside down to ID it easily. What kind of mix are you using and why. Thanks good job!🐝
Hi, I use 1:1 sugar water with honey b healthy to stimulate feeding, and pollen mixed in to help encourage brood production
Pollen from a pollen trap or a bit of pollen sub? I haven’t done that, but I like it.
@@joeelam1 Pollen sub, but real pollen would obviously be better!
THANKS FOR THAT WORK.
Good job, clear plan for the inspection. Most definitely need to think about it before opening the hive.
You shouldn't puff your smoker so hard. Blows flames and hot smoke. Small pools with cold smoke
Thanks for the feedback, I’ll do my best to go easy on it next time :)
I always keep the top of my smoker full of nearby greens (weeds, grass, leaves) keeps the smoke cool and stops sparks etc
可以改用細沙糖，會有一樣的效果，又不會殺死蜜蜂。
Would this technique if not preformed correctly or timely enough cause the opportunity to have a larger mite infestation?
That is correct, you'll to stay on top of it
light puffs if you looking for a queen but normal hive inspection. your doing fine keep up the good work and thank you and your narration was fine
Thanks for your feedback!
lol don’t smoke them out
Im sorry... not trying to be mean. Your narrating like youre reading a book to preschoolers.
Thanks for your comment, it’s a stylistic choice. sorry it’s not working for you
Light puffs with the smoker.
Thanks for your comment! I'll try my best to use lighter puffs next time :)
@@ShorewoodBeeNice @MrColtnutz. We can share content.
Very good video, one question where did u get the green frame for drones ?
Hi thanks for your comment. I got it from capitalbeesupply.com/products/pierco-green-drone-comb/ - link is also in the description :)
Amazon,10 pcs 33.89
I would never do this, but i enjoy watching you do it and all the great inforamation you give. New subbie here😊
Thanks for the sub, I appreciate your watching!
I enjoy your videos, they're very informative..
Thank you for you comment :)
I really enjoy your videos. I'm learning alot and this was a great explanation of the mite check.
I'd be interested to see how the "sugar shake" method works if you do a check later in the season.
Hi thanks for your kind comment! I'd love to do a sugar shake comparison later in the season, that's a great idea :)
Thank you for your information, I just want to add one point to make beter results, when you finshe appling the alcohol wash you need to do water wash twice on the same sample, i think you will have more accurate result. My best wishes
Thank you so much for your suggestion! I'll be sure to try that next time :)
when you say water wash, do you mean inspect the alcohol wash, and then drain that and then rinse the bees in just water? (x2?)
@@JeanLaValley I believe that's what they meant, at least, that's how I took it.
@@JeanLaValley exactly, because some mits will stick to the bees body even if both are dead, farther more you can put the dead bees on a paper and count them to have accurate percentage of mits load. One more thing when you shake the frame do not cover the container with towel and let the field bees to fly back to the hive because your target is the nurse bees which still unable to fly yet because the mits are prefering the nurse bees than the field bees Best regards Jean
No boy bees means no mated queens. Great idea 💡
Hi, thanks for your comment. The colony makes way more drones than is needed, so it’s not a problem :)
Also, queens don’t mate with drones from their own hive.
@@ShorewoodBeeNice Actually they don't if you are using green drone frames. That is one of the benefits of using green frames---that the bees put the drone larvae on that comb and not all over the colony. Also---not all chemical interventions create an issue for honey consumption---OA and Formic Acid for example.
@@ronaldstilwell3464 Nice, thanks!
They still produce drones on other frames, no problem
great video... in post processing/editing phase of the video you should mark with a red circle or something similar where the queen is at on that frame where you ask the viewers if they spot the queen... 6:15 me, I think I've seen it, but for clear confirmation, a marker would help the viewers...
Thanks for the comment! That's great feedback and I’ll be sure to include it next time
So where is the best place to get a green drone game board? Great video new bee keeper TN.
Hi, thanks for your question! I have updated the description of this video to include a link to where I got my green drone comb.
Amazon sells 10 pcs for 33.89
👌👍👏
excellent...good show. keep it up.
You did your homework and your hive looks good for it. I've never had luck with the drone comb myself, as the worker girls don't seem to like drawing it out. When you take out wax from your hive, save it, melt it, and reapply it to your boards with a (new-fresh) brush - this will help them to get started. Also, make sure you have freezer space (that your wife is okay with you using). Thanks for sharing the video - and keep up the fight against those destroyers.
Thank you for your suggestion! I’ve got a chest freezer with plenty of space ready to go. I’ve also noticed that the bees aren’t really drawing it out much. I just put some extra wax on it a couple days ago so hopefully that will help :)
You dont need to freeze the drone comb. You can just uncapp it with a knife and shake the drones out along with the mites.
I have read that if you put sticky paper on the bottom below the screen, you can keep better track of mite numbers. It might help with proving your theory on prevention. I believe in prevention, but nay sayers will want hard numbers. Good job!
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ll be keeping track of mite counts through regular sampling rather than relying on mite drop, which isn’t all that reliable as it turns out.
Why you stealing everyone's information and making like you are an expert?
Hi, thanks for your comment. I’m no expert, the first thing I say in the video states as much, and if you read the description it explicitly says so as well. I’m simply showing what I’m doing in what I hope is a well presented and informational format :)
First thought I had was, did he just buy everything just to make a video.... the whole video is based around using a well known technique but the title suggests something different.
I bought everything to keep bees, and I decided to also make videos, no reason I can't do both :)