going on 20 years of this.
What I demonstrate in my videos is the same thing that helped build the 2nd largest boat detailing company in the nation, because it made customers happy and gave us the time and money to hire/train and retain good employees and keep growing. Good luck doing that with Wetsanding only.
I do smaller boats now but the thinking is the same; more happy customers, less cost/effort and a growing business. You can make mistakes with a buffer but they're fewer and further apart and for a novice or new boat owner, which do you think they'd pick up and understand easier?
Lastly, many customers don't know what a swirl is or have Oxidation in their gelcoat wanting "a light wax". They don't know what great looks like.
As long as all the oxidation is removed, you have a clean surface, protected with a great sealant, the boat will look better than new with both styles, I just don't want to make people go through 18 steps when 3 will work just fine.
Lee
Alwayswithacoke@HM
Пікірлер
Thank you for sharing your expertise it truly helps us novice! Dont listen to the haters and keep doing what you do!
I appreciate the kind words. I'm still here, haters and all. No retreat, no surrender! Lee
Awesome video Lee! Was this boat done by you before?
Ha, while she's a familiar shape and color combo, no. They bought it from Seattle last year and this was her maiden grind. It's a '17 and was kept under the covor for the lifetime of the boat. It showed. If I did, they left the cover on, most of the time since, for about a season and a half with Flagship. The top looked good. My guess is that whomever detailed it last (if recent) used an oily compound and just waxed after a wiped own. It'll look black for a while, like oil on a flat paint makes it darker or paper translucent. There wasn't much in the way of a swirl prior to me seeing her. Who knows. Now you've got me digging through old videos looking for reg numbers. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood it did look familiar! I noticed the lack of swirls as well so I wasn’t sure if a previous detailer or you had touched the topside. As always love the responses
Well, the last one to wax it didn't do a bad job but they covered up a bunch in the hull. Anytime. Lee
Just wet-sand it once and be done with it. But it's okay, wet-sanding was only used in 1970 eh Lee? ;) Never let your ego affect your work, and never stop learning my friend. You would just need to see someone that knows how to wet sand properly do it in front of your eyes and you would be sold. The video where you showed your friend Wetsand the snaps on the cobalt was pretty funny... we had a good laugh at that. Clueless!
I admit, sanding this would have worked. How long would that have taken to finish? At what cost? I'm honestly asking because according to what I've seen in almost 20 years of this, my way is better on a few levels. I've waited to see that ("just sand it and save time") . I'm still waiting for someone to prove it can be done quicker, cheaper and last longer. Let me know when ya'll find that or if you know someone good, send them my way. You'll note that I always say, someone good at sanding is amazing. Most aren't, most learn from them (the bad ones).. Same in buffing. I put my stuff out there so if someone wants to avoid learning a skilled craft, and instead wants to buy a buffer and not destroy their boat or waste a month, they can. I also put it out to see if someone can prove me wrong and not just say a thing.. I get lots of comments but no links to a video or website with a video.. (a video of a used boat that gets sanded, waxed and put outside for 3 years) beat me on any level: price, time, ease to learn, efficiency of products, longevity. You'll sand flatter than a wool pad can buff but in oxidation left behind/returning, it'll be a tie with the same polish/wax. So where are we if I'm right? Hell, I'm from the 70's. A ton has changed over the years. Odd that paint correction can have updates welcomed but heaven forbid it happens in gelcoat correction. Never stop learning; my door is open. Ego and work; when you got it, flaunt it. Peaces, Lee
Not many people want to post a video about what they do everyday. It’s not a super common trade, and where it is (ex. Florida) it’s usually employees doing the work and not caring about putting a video out. Guys Wetsand boats everyday all over the world including myself. Just not interested in putting a video out. But try it properly, get a good DA sander and some Mirka Abralon and do a boat like that. Much easier than to go over the boat 3-4 times and have sub par results like that. It should be perfect and oxidation gone with your first buffing step. Keep up the good work!
I've been on youtube for over a decade, no takers. Think you're the 1st to say, any of that? Being honest, you're giving all sorts of excuses and outs. I didn't once say, make a vid a day. I just ask anyone to find a chalky old boat like one I've done and just do the one. Or come here and show me. If you've got (and I'm not saying you have) something to prove, great. Show me. If you and your fellow masters do this all day, surely it would be so easy to demo this on a boat, snap a short vid and show me it's quicker or anything people really care about. Then try and remember to snap another where you wait a few years to show me the results of the shine. Either one would be awesome. I'm never Wetsanding a boat and don't see the point 98% of the time. This works in Florida my man, ask Mystic boats. I'll wait for the vid and will repost it if I'm wrong, gladly. Lee
Local boydidgood, I can't get enough of your content, so I subscribed!
As long as someone out there's crazy enough to like it, I'm happy to keep going. Thanks! Lee
Would be so much better with no music. Can hardly hear you.
I'm not too exciting, but I can see your point. I've been better since. Lee
Just curious about a question What is the best method for removing a painted name from the transom?
Best on gelcoat boats, not painted!) In a boat yard or with a good way to catch all the 'yuck'.. Spray on some oven cleaner. Don't let it dry, either keep spraying it, keep it in shade or spritz it lightly with water. With a water hose and a nozzle, see how much comes off with just water pressure after 5-10 minutes.. If the name is still there, scrub with a rag, reapply the oven cleaner and repeat. Rinse well. Let dry. Or, sand it off.
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee really appreciate your info
Fa sho!
Smh finess it sucks. Typical overpriced 3M product.
Finesse-it (on gelcoat) does suck. Perfect-it ex ac however is awesome. I'm sorry you waste your time with whatever you used. Probably used a bad pad too. Since you're the expert, what's better smh-guy?
Over 30 years of doing this and any 3M product is garbage. THAT is the waste of time. Sorry you haven't figured it out yet
Wow, you're really helpful. What DO YOU USE THAT'S BETTER? My assumption is, you were never trained on how to use it (3M compounds). So, for 30 years, you've failed your 3M compounds, not the other way around. It's very common but I've seen it for 20 successful years, doing things with 3M compounds I don't see anyone else doing. Is it because I'm special or did I just figure it out unlike most who try this? I just got lucky and for almost 20 years, I've been showing others just how easy and moron-proof this is. Watch a few more of my vids and see if you can do better/faster work. Let me know what your secret is because in my experience (and yes, I've tried just about every compound available) nothing I've found, is better than 3M for consistency, effectiveness or predictable results. Obviously like with my crew, you did like 200 boats a year (average length 45') for 15 years so you would know what efficient use of time and products because you made a profit right? I assume you've got some secret you've been hiding... I'll be excited to lean about. I'll ask a third time and give you an opportunity to lay down some truth; what works for you then? What's better? I'm curious what you learned in 30 years of this, that actually works or if I'm right and you failed, just like most boat detailers, to use the products the right way. I'll be waiting for the revelation you bless us with. Lee
Crickets.. Typical.
Still nothing. Surprise.
I would want my original Cobalt decals back on also. It’s a Cobalt thing.
I understand, they look cool. As long as you're willing to pay for the extra 2 hours per side (minimum) I'd be happy to put them back on but it is a silly design flaw, a Cobalt thing or not. I suppose it's why they went away from it in later models, even before the sale of Cobalt in '14..'17? So, have dollars, will travel but I don't see many Cobalts with this type of emblem set, where it isn't the ugliest part of the hull 3 months after it was "waxed". Options for both sides is all I'm saying. I will always hate working around them and Chaparral emblems are no better (just more rare here). They look cool, also a pain in the ass. Lee
Any news on the secret sauce??
This year..
@@Local_Boydidgood thanks Lee looking forward to it
Me too. Just needed to be sure before I put my name on it. I'm liking what we've seen so far. Probably after the Summer peak. I'll have more time. Lee
Just wanted to ask, do you have a checklist of what you look for on a boat before you even start like blemishes or cracks that sort of thing thank you
Everything I can fix I note, things I can't I take pictures but try. You're asking for a class, I have 300+ videos so I don't have to give one in the comments section, sorry. I'm working. Lee
Thank you so much for your time. I really appreciate it and your comment.
Hope you understand. Thanks.
kzread.info/dash/bejne/f2uhlY9vdse2kaQ.html
@@Local_Boydidgood yes I understand and thank you again for your time and your info
Is there any information on fire glaze and how it’s made or what kind of composition it has to be so durable?
You can request the MSDS on the product from the manufacturer. I doubt they'll explain exactly how it lasts so long but it's a consumer right, to know. I'd ask if curious. I'd also ask them what they suggest to use. I've been guessing the whole time. Lee
What kind of topper or spray would you put on top of fire glaze just to keep it up and keep up the UV protection
Any. I mean, any polymer-based spray, no carnauba wax!
Thanks, Lee
Anytime
Nice demonstration Lee. Answered a lot of my questions. You know im a guy with many questions 🤷♂️😂
I assumed you might get what you needed in a better way by seeing it. Sometimes I play for the camera and do 3 steps in one spot before moving on but it's less efficient than just running front to back with one product/technique then switching to the next one and so on. Not shutting off the camera while all 3-6 steps are being performed, allows people to see a little more of what I see and how I think when looking at the surface afterwards. In most cases, I pick sections to hit at a time and there, I'll use 1 product and then the next while not doing the whole boat, just that section but then never touching it again from the last time I touched it. Otherwise, I do an entire top-side or hull-side with whatever is needed then whatever is needed next. It all, ALL depends on the boat and how much time I have in the light I need. A hard question to answer I'm afraid. Lee
The boat must have won?
Et tu Brutus? Never! It just isn't paying me... It waits till "work" allows. Storms have plagued us this Spring so, as an example, today, I buy supplies after sleeping in till 10 am 😁 It's coming.. You'll enjoy. Lee
Sounds good. We were getting worried.
There's a "we"?
Me myself and I
That qualifies. I have a bit to go on the test boat but have done 2 since and half of another in the time. Memorial day or whatever boat emergency has me doing customer boats 1st. It'll be here..
Great video as usual I’m coming across customers they want their boat sanded and I’ve told them that there’s a better way but they still feel like they want to see someone saying the hall to make them feel better about it. I don’t know how to overcome that Service situation. I said well that’s what I can offer you and that’s it and then they say what kind of boat detailer are you? We don’t know how to send a boat? Also, I’ve come across some boats where they’ve had patchwork done on the hall of the boat and I’m wondering how to deal with these things they look yellowish patches and I think that they’ve had some sort of work done on it so the reason for this is, I need to find out if there’s some sort of checklist for a newbie like me to go through in order not to get myself with any kind of trouble to recognize what I should work on and work on I know that comes with experience anyhow any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hi. I've never had anyone ask me to sand a boat but living in the Pacific Northwest, I don't know anyone who sands a boat anymore. Part of being a detailer is educating the customer. Show them a demo spot, compound it and polish it as normal. Let them see how long it lasts and they can come back next year. No matter how well a boat is sanded, unless the detailer used a good marine wax (not one for car paint and not a cleaner wax) no matter how smooth it's sanded, it'll fail when the "wax" does. So I honestly don't know why sanding is still a thing. Most sanders use carnauba wax when done, which lasts weeks in heat and months in overcast weather (Seattle) but that's it.. How is that better? As to patchwork on hulls.. There's nothing you can do but polish what's there, you aren't there to resurface the boat just to shine it. Almost all hulls have some damage, like car bumpers do. If the repair was bad, you'll see it. Just shine it up and move on. Try to clean the surface of any stains prior to applying wax and sometimes if it's a rust or waterline stain, when the gelcoat is dull, chemicals to remove stains, stick better and stay where you want them as opposed to when it's smooth and glossy from compounding. As to the checklist.. Document every bad thing you see on a boat before ever touching it (video/camera) fix what you can, ignore what you can't but let the customer know what you saw and offer ways they can have someone fix it properly next time. I can only say that a detailer who cares is worth more than 10 who don't and many don't. Get on the Google machine and start researching. I'll keep showing what I do but I am not about to teach an entire class on how to be a detailer, that comes from you and your experiences. Like I said before, I don't get the request to sand. I just do my thing and grow as people learn. Tell people that we were sanding boats when we landed on the moon. Ask them if they know of any other skill or trade that's the same today as it was then. They've all adapted, boat detailers were late but there's science now and chemicals... Things have changed. Back when we landed on the moon, doctors were still recommending which cigarettes to buy... Tell these troglidites that the past is dead and if they want your skills, they have to accept that. Or something. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood haley thanks again really want to thank you for all the information you gave me. I know it’s time-consuming but well worth it thank you so much and love what you’ve been saying all along and will stick to the plan and make things work and I have been doing a lot of research lately, so that’s why I was asking this particular question about sending. Thanks again. All the best
Sometimes, you actually have to show people what you're capable of even if they're not paying you. Now you don't have to do this a lot but it is sometimes necessary in order to get people over the hump. Good luck and as a last ditch effort, consider moving to the Pacific northwest.
@@Local_Boydidgood it’s interesting. You say that to do something for nothing showing what you capable of I’ve done that many times and it’s gotten me some work mostly in cars but the last ones I did for jet skis I did two for the price of one and now I’ve got two boats to do so I was a good thought. Thank you Lee. You’re a good man. Take care.
If you plant seeds well, harvesting later can be a joy. People need to "see" what's possible before they can desire a thing. We all want a shiny boat/car but until we see a "detailed" (boat/car like ours) we just assume it's all hype, not worth the money. Boating is ego (unless fishing or shipping people or cargo professionally) so showing a mirror to the marina, generally catches the attention of others who seek you out. That's how it starts anyways. Keep making smiles. Lee
Hello Lee. Awsome Video. I always thought that heavy cut was “ruffer” than fast cut. But apparently not. I wonder, would you use thease products and these three steps if it was a boat with white oxidated gelcot? Or is this something you use because you got a “colored” gelcot? I see you go up in speed with your machine at the end for each product. About what speed do you have on the machine and that time? Max speed? I also noticed that you do little section on the boat and make all three steps. Is this the way you normally do it or it’s just for video purposes? I maybe you did sections but only one product at a time. And when you did the whole boat a new product and so on. Many questions for a new beginner 😊. Cheers 👋
Hi, thanks. Many questions indeed. Go slow, I'm good, you're new. I'll let you watch more of my videos so you can start to see why and how I decide things. Almost all gelcoat is the same, white or colored it oxidizes. Your job is to remind it of how it is supposed to look. I generally do an entire boat hull or topside section in one product, achieving the same results throughout before moving on. What products depends on the boat. Unlike most clearcoats, gelcoat is specific to that exact boat. You live by guidelines not rules. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for Answering Lee. I have watched many of you videos, but came across this one yesterday. Im a little confused, when watching 3M website checking the products you use. They rate Heavy cut as a ruffer abrasive then Super duty. But still you use it in the order Super duty, Heavy Cut and least perfected EX AC?
3M are morons. Don't read their labels.. There are times Super-Duty can finish clean and swirl-free. It's rare. Heavy Cut can usually take out most scratches and stains but sometimes not. If I see it struggling, I switch to Super. Perfect-it ex ac is always last.
@@Local_Boydidgood hehehe Morons 😂. Thanks again 🙏.
Anytime
You can tell how splotchy it is from the camera, the oxidation will definitely come back soon. Wetsanding simply lasts longer and digs deeper to remove the oxidation. Been doing it all my life. Yes the customer will be happy and yes he will pay you. But to say your technique gives the same results as a wet sanding job well done is not true. It's all about price and customer expectations in this business. Great work nonetheless!
Jeeez, another one? Look: Doing it wrong "all m(one's)y life" don't make it right. Imagine if you're dead wrong on what you think you saw and what you think the expected lifespan of that finish is. What if all this time, you've just been wasting yours? Don't think stuff changes when new things are observed, studies and applied? Ask any doctor, lawyer or any professional in any field who's kill'n it. They aren't using old stuff. We went to the moon, things have changed. I get, most folks, don't know how compound or a buffer work let alone what gelcoat is and how to deal with it. I created the polisher I'm holding.. Good enough credentials for you? It's possible that you're right or it's possible that you have been perpetuating a myth for 20+ years.. ? Splotchy? You mean the oil on the black hull that hasn't been washed off since the wax was applied and buffed off? (explained in the video and again, I'm done with this) Why would I show it if it was splotchy? I can never catch a "wet paint" sun dot reflection either. They all look like fuzzy dime sized dots with this camera/phone. Pores add to the fuzz. How do you get rid of pores in gelcoat? How do you fill the ones you uncover fresh with sanding? My guess is they fill with dust that mimics a smooth surface even after some stripping medium is used to clean the area. Adding a compound to also require a cleaning then a polish, how do you make things at the surface any different besides "flatter"? You're using your eyes? Your memory? Your expertise in the field under all kinds of conditions? Me too. Odd that you would assume I'm not, insulting actually. I'll tell you what big stuff, this (blue one, 2nd shown) boat's going to sit here virtually untouched as a demo for the shop that I've been "stationed" at for a minute. The last time I did a demo boat like this the shine lasted for almost 3 years outside exposed. If you want to show me that your s*** works better than mine, then do it or shut it. It's that simple. Or, I'll even accept if you find a video of someone doing what I did (demo boat, same basic conditions) and then we can talk. I haven't seen it and I once represented CeramicPro Marine (showed them how to "gelcoat") . Make or find a video showing your boat sitting outside for 3 years and if it lasts for that long I'll come to your shop and buy you a beer, gladly. I'll shake your hand and we'll film you 'learn'n me. Till then, keep sanding and living in the 50's, 60's, 70's...90's the teens............. The moon was '69. We've come a long way. Science happened. Did everyone get fooled by oils? Yes, yes they did. You were right once. That ended in 2011. Hi, I'm Lee. Lee
Crickets as per the norm.. Next!
Great job, info and videos, Lee! I've been watching a ton of your vids and hoping for a quick answer. In about 4 days my marina will have my Chaparral 264 out of storage and blocked for me to do my first buff job. I'm only going to do the black edge which goes all around the boat-- kinda like the blue area which Payton did on his boat. Here's my concern-- I bought my supplies B4 I realized how much you seem to depend on 3M Perfect-it ex ac. I bought the DeWalt, the quick-connect, the two 3M pads, 3M Heavy Cut, Meguiars Flagship wax you recommended. But I screwed up (?) and got 3M Perfect-it Compound & Polish #30344 because it seemed the 3M site said use that as step 2 after Heavy Cut and before the wax. Is that OK to use in place of ex ac??
Hi, Um.. You can usually get Heavy Cut to finish almost to Perfect-it levels. Swirl-Free and a shiny reflection. Adding a mixed product like the "Perfect-it wax polish in my opinion, sets down a flimsy foundation for Flagship. I suppose; see what it looks like with Heavy Cut and if you're happy with your results, just use Flagship. You can also go Heavy Cut, the Perfect-it polish and then Flagship but If you want the best, longest lasting shine, actual Perfect-it ex ac after Heavy Cut, clean/inspect and Flagship would be best. Use what works. I'm not there. It's just a boat, you can always do it again later and try new things. Let whatever wax you apply, be a little thicker than normal and let it sit for a while, to soak in and saturate the gelcoat. It's been dry for a while and will be thirsty. Good luck. Thanks for watching. Tell a friend. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks for the quick reply, Lee! I've been stressing out too much since this will be my first attempt at buffing and your vids and this reply are helping a lot--LOL. This time I'm just going with Heavy Cut and the Meguiar's wax and return the Polish and save 60.00-- next year I can adjust and will use ex ac in the future for sure! One last question-- I know I saw it in one of your vids but not sure-- you say after Heavy Cut to "clean/inspect before wax". I know I obviously have to wipe the heavy off with a cloth but did you then use isopropyl alcohol or something like that? Also thanks for the wax tip to leave on a little before removing! Gonna screen-grab your comments.
Use a window cleaner, white vinagar and water, dawn dish soap and water, isopropyl alcohol... Surface prep spray... Remove the oils, make sure you're happy with the surface before applying the wax. Lee
What’s up Lee, have you worked on a boat with GRP before? The google machine says it’s polyester resin mixed with glass fibers…I’m about to work on a Chris craft carina and the hull looked weird…tips to see if it’s gel coat or something else? I’m guessing if it’s non buffable, putting Fg or flagship on it will be fine. Thanks for all the help
If you're seeing fiberglass strands on a Chris, I'd suspect you've hit the actual fiberglass. Chris crafts never used GRP. (pretty sure) just gelcoat. I could be wrong. You're outside of the ballpark for me there brother, sorry. Lee
Newer CC's are painted over gelcoat. I forgot that part, sorry. You might have seen the white areas as gelcoat and the colored areas as paint. That's typically what I see in the new (thin-walled) Cc's. Also, thank you. Lee
Awesome job! I’ve commented before but I’m halfway through my 05 black Cobalt and trying to be patient and thorough. I watched the whole video on 1.5x did you polish and then wax or just wax?
I always compound and then clean/inspect and then wax. Thanks. Good luck. It's just time. Lee
I used to spend days using rubbing compound, polish, and wax. It looked amazing, for about two weeks. After I figured out wet sanding, my work last about 4 years.
And what wax was used to get protection that lasts 4 years? Is it sold in stores or conjured up with black magic? I just haven't seen it yet. It just tells me that you never learned to use a buffer the right way. Most don't, I wasn't taught either. Glad you found a fix that worked for you. Do get back to me on that 4 year wax though. I'd love to find some. Lee
@Local_Boydidgood I still wash, polish with maguires and wax with Collinite 885 each season but I haven't had to use compound since I wet sanded it. Could be the short season here in NH but oxidation hasn't been a problem since.
Hi. Thanks. I'd say that exposed, the products you mentioned aren't supposed to nor have I ever seen them last that long, more like 3-8 months tops in the best "exposed" conditions. They use a natural wax. Even collinite's is just carnauba wax, a natural product, designed to breakdown in Nature. I've never heard of it lasting past a season unless garaged but even then, the natural wax breaks down. The enzymes in the wax contribute to it breaking down faster than desired for most and since polymers have hit the market, I only suggest caranuba wax for a car at a car show with lots of lights because it looks so good when done right. I'd never put it on a car I drove outside, it just lacks the strength to make the effort of applying it (again and again per year on a car) that I'd rather "Nu Finish 2000" on the paint after it was corrected because it'll last a solid year exposed without too much maintenance. A high-end ceramic would be best but expensive, Fire Glaze after that, polymer-based past that and then a natural wax like Mutan or carnauba Perhaps you aren't exposing the boat to lots of sun (stored under cover, inside or under a shade). At 47°N, we get about the same exposure to the sun here and short seasons too. If exposed but kept clean, Fire Glaze will last up to 3 years as will an Si02 ceramic. They both can be "topped off" to keep the protection going even further. I've seen 5 years with barely any signs of wear or breakdown in Fire Glaze. This was a marina boat with a covered berth so that helped. The owner washed the boat once a month and they would take trips to Alaska. I know it's difficult to hear/believe probably but I'm suggesting these to improve your results. Whatever you're dealing with to get 4 years with carnauba, use a polymer-based, nano-tech or ceramic and see if you've found your new solution. I would. If you want to double your expectations, try Flagship by Meguiar’s. If you want to never wax her again (based on the longevity you seem to find with the carnauba-based stuff) Thanks again for the reply. Lee
Another insane recovery! You definitely know your game!
Thanks. I get lucky sometimes. Lee
Do you ever wash the pads with soap and water? What's the life of those wool pads?
No. I use them till they get full, I spur them out or wait till they dry a bit and then spur them out. (can take hrs or days, have extra pads) A pad can compound with Super-Duty for up to 4 boats or as few as a half a boat. It depends on a long list of factors. Lee
Hey Lee, I know you answered this question 100x .....I have a black hull with a decent shine. You recomend ex ac pefect it only, followed by wax. Is it only the 2 steps? What wool pad do I use with EX AC with this approach?
Hi. Same wool pad just well spurred (cleaned) go slow and flat as possible and just use enough to keep the area your working, workable. Too much and it spreads for days and humms up the pad. Too little and the compound doesn't have enough teeth to do anything so it dries up and can leave scratches. You can use a foam pad and Perfect-it ex ac if the oxidation is super light but if you see it needs a buffer, a wool pad is best. Clean and inspect then wax if you're happy. Lee
Lee - I’ve always been curious of what you would charge for a job. That was absolutely shocking.. at a week and a half or even 3-4 days $1200 sounds absurdly low for your experience level.. a tree trimmer has no sympathy charging my sweet grandmother $1200 to cut down a single tree in 3 hours and he was slow at the time
If I were in Seattle, things would be different but it takes time to make introductions. Baby steps. I've been in the area for 3 years doing this but the shop I used to work at is currently still in business and I'm friends with them still (plenty of boats and RV's here) I need to establish who I am solo before I can make a decent rate for the work. At the same time, I always seem to gripe about doing more than I expected and yet I find myself also, always going above and beyond because it's needed and I want the attention if I'm being honest. There's no advertising past what's on the back of the car, word of mouth spreads the message and then I only deal with people who seek me or my crew (none currently) out. I like proving my work, even at a loss in the early stages of any venture over selling something intangible but promised. If they find me, it's because they've been convinced already. Either in a yard, at a marina or from a referral. I cherish these customers and don't hold back when I need to say something. They get my observations and thoughts as well as any concerns prior to working on their boat and that helps give me room to.. Be me. Then when finished, I try to educate them on maintenance and how things they're doing, as evidenced by the boat's surface, are hurting the finish. I try not to be a complete ass about it but because of how I meet my customers and 'fix' their boat, the next time I hit the boat they usually just point to it, I do my thing and they pay whatever I say I was worth. (it helps that I'm not a greedy pile of garbage that tries to get $6-10k a detail) I pick fruit, I don't harvest the tree. Anyways, that's a great way to start any relationship. Trust, honesty and forgiveness at both ends of it are fundamentally great for an owner/detailer relationship. I get that by basically baiting the waters with a season of stuff like this, good work for less. Once my schedule fills up, the cost goes up. By "fills up" meaning I'm booked out longer than boating season is open/active. Money is easy to make, a career takes planning. Or planting. Either way. While I fight my legal seperating issues, I'll be OK paying bills and keeping up at these rates. Next year's lineup is going to pay for the effort, I promise. I also, am not entirely motivated by money. Sometimes, stuff just needs to happen and I'm the guy to do it. Secretly I grumble to myself while I'm being nice.. I need help, clearly. 😂 Thanks though and I realize I'm kind of rare for a vendor. I'm often shocked by people who stick to a set price and never deviate. Some people deserve breaks and some deserve to pay full retail. It mostly depends on my day and their mood/attitude. Mostly, it comes down to what I want my name associated with. If paid to half-ass a job, it'd hurt me to deliver just that, both personally and reputation-wise to have that be out in the world for people to judge and berate. I try to stay as lazy as I can be while still delivering a solid job. Plus, I can film stuff I'm not ashamed of and show the right (my) attitude to take with an old boat. I'm also pushing the local "competition" to meet my prices or beat my work. I'm sitting pretty secure at the moment. Another bit of reasoning behind it is that in time, I'll be so booked that I can raise rates until I hit a level where I start losing jobs and then I'll back off my rates till it stabilizes to an even flow of ins-&-outs that I no longer have to mention money till they retrieve their boat or after. I typically float thousands as people slowly remember to pay their invoice. No tips (FYI) That kind of business feels good and is easy to adapt with. No mean customers, no surprises and always an understanding that "perfect" is an illusion but if everyone is happy with "really good" then I sleep easy and never feel like a jerk for charging what's comfortable for my boat folks. I appreciate the sentiment however. Lee
😊
Makes the shiny oxidized Cobalt look easy. This one's gonna hurt. See ya in a few days. Lee
It hurts just looking at it. Do not watch any of the Zippy Marine Restorations videos. It will hurt your brain. Especially the one titled “Can I Buff Over A Oxidized Boat? NO!”
😂😅
Zippy put in 60 hours on a 2006 red Monterey. Sounds like an insane number of hours. They need some advice from the Doctor.
He won't listen, sadly. Funny.
That'll be fun. 😅 Ive got a 360 cobalt, that someone put some type of coating on. Its been kicking my butt.
I hope you've got Super-Duty and a wool pad by 3m, that or a palm sander, d/a sander. kzread.info/dash/bejne/Yo6r29WcXZafkZM.htmlfeature=shared Good luck! Lee
The Sea Ray ought to be interesting, You live a nightmare you can’t get out of 😂 can’t wait to see another miracle.
"nightmare you can't get out of.." lol Too true. (it didn't sluff off.. 😖) Cheers!
Lee started my first boat 25 1988 formula pc following exactly your products and procedures and the result is amazing !! Got three other jobs by people just coming by and seeing what I’m doing . In your videos I’ve watched you do a three step process for the camera ,, but on the real world would you super the whole side ,, then heavy the whole side , and ex ac whole side or just do all three in a 3 foot section on the hull sides and top ? Also are the 3m super , heavy and exac considered diminishing compounds that break down into a polish ? Last question I’ve cleaned the pads with spur etc ,, put do you ever wash the wool pads and if so with what and spin dry ? Thank you for all your knowledge that you share helped me out with second daughter going to college to make extra money 👍🇺🇸
If the whole boat needs 3 passes with 3 compounds, yes. I show you exactly what I do. I don't change much just for viewers. I don't care that much, honestly. I'm just trying to show how this gets done. Sometimes, I'll change the order I do stuff or the area I show because of lighting opportunities or just because it's easy to leave a camera there running. What you see is what I do. The compounds are considered diminishing except perhaps Super-Duty although I've seen it do it so..? Use pad, spur pad. When it gets gummed up, let dry (sometimes for a day or two) spur out, use pad. No washing, no drying. I'm happy to hear your calandar is filling up. Tuition ain't cheap. Good luck! Lee
Lee just to make sure you said yes in response lol ,, yes to work a three foot section at a time with all thee steps , super , heavy , ex or do you do the whole side of boat with super , then come back with heavy etc .
It's easiest to use 1 product at a time, for a while. You learn it and the boat's reaction to it and can dial in your process. Then, come back with the next one and so on. Sorry. Do a full pass with each. You can do one section all the steps, just to motivate you and give you a goal but it's inefficient in the long run. Good for a video and my inner thoughts while grinding.
Do you work in the Orlando, Florida area will love to get my boat done. By you is a 26ft Monterrey
Thanks but: Opposite side of the country I'm afraid, Washington State. Just keep watching, I make these so people don't need to hire a detailer. Lee
Can you use the Fire Glaze as the third step after using 3M Super Duty and 3M Heavy Cut? Or should I use the Perfect IT EXAC before the Fire Glaze?
It's your boat. The difference between heavy cut and Perfect-it is noticeable but it's all $ and work. Do clean the boat before FG is applied, after the compound. Lee
What is the orbital sander you are using?
Porter cable
Ive heard several folks talk about cleaning the work area after the compound. What is used to clean and wouldn't that take away from the shine the compound leaves behind? Great video, incredible skilkzs insane outcome! Pow!
Thanks. No, the cleaning reveals what's under the oils of the compound left behind after buffing. You need to have a good bond between the "wax" and the gelcoat you have. It's best when clean. Soap and water, glass cleaner, a surface prep spray, white vinagar and water.. What I use, is in the video.. Plus: kzread.info/dash/bejne/q4R9upuKo9rWXZc.htmlfeature=shared
Here's the magic question! How long will that shine last on a boat that's docked on the water, down south and up north? Thanks for the reply.
As long as your product is maintained, this can last years without a buffer. Don't just hear that, see it for yourself. kzread.info/dash/bejne/n32Y3MOLh8LLZtI.htmlfeature=shared kzread.info/dash/bejne/onWe3LJxZau_lLw.htmlfeature=shared kzread.info/dash/bejne/dnlss8GtdM-qhLA.htmlfeature=shared kzread.info/dash/bejne/aoCi25WAftK0ZJc.htmlfeature=shared kzread.info/dash/bejne/ao53qNKgicWoiNI.htmlfeature=shared kzread.info/dash/bejne/i5qZw7JtcqjfaZs.htmlfeature=shared Lee
Looking Good Lee Love seeing all the shiny Cobalts :)
Well, thanks. I'd like to see some too one day. Seems all I get are the chalky ones. 😁
Hi Lee, glad your still here. I did all the steps last year with Heavy Cut, Perfect it and FireGlaze. I have some black marks and scruffs from shrink wrap and just some areas that need a little love. It's a 2002 Sea Ray Sundancer.. Should I go over it with Meguiars Flagship Cleaner/wax? What would you recommend? And what pad? I don't mind going over the hull once or twice. Thanks again for everything!
You know I'm guessing here, because I'm not, there: Perfect-it with a wool pad, clean an re-apply FG. Give the Flagship "cleaner wax" a break. (my personal opinion) I'm not there so I can't tell you what to use. It's why I have so many videos, to show that while I use the same few products, I use what the boat needs. Hit the boat with Perfect-it ex ac and get the marks and problem spots with the same but, harder* (not too hard. If you're pushing hard to get something off with Perfect-it, switch to heavy cut. The just dial in the boat. Clean it well and wax.
@Local_Boydidgood Thanks Lee, makes sense. I was gonna try the white foam pad first and see if that works to remove the marks. Will update. Thanks again.
Cheers
Thanks for the Beer suggestion and funds to locate and secure it Matthew. I very much appreciated the note and donation. Thank you sir. Lee
deja vu
Less politics, more me.
Lee, do you have a suggestion of model of grinder for the at home non professional guy?
The one you won't regret is the DWP849X by Dewalt. You'll love owning it. I guess it all depends. My 2 buffers are 5 & 7 years old. One has a jinky speed knob at just a mm to top speed (it has no connection and dies) that's her only negative. At 50, I should be so lucky. It's a sellable item. You can buy one used for cheap often times because people buy one but never learn to use it so they sell it or the boat or both. Either way, $70 at a pawnshop for one within the year long warranty isn't a bad investment. Online, depending on the time of year (illegal price manipulation but who don't we let get away with it these days? Sorry..) sell for $125 shipped. Makita makes a nice tool some say. Comes with a nice carry bag lots of people (myself included) consider an awesome feature. They're smoother and more gentle to a newbie but lack the "I will grind until I see myself" attitude the DeWalt has. None of them tolerate heat as well as the DeWalt. Italian Rupes, flex, Milwaukee.. There's a few and options for going cordless. Even if you weren't a speedster or a wealthy person, if asked what car I should buy, I'd say a Tesla Plaid, a Nissan gt-R or a full-warrantied Mercedes e63 AMGs wagon. There's cheaper cars for getting around, perhaps more appropriate cars but you ask and I'm going to say that just using "it" and wanting "it" ("it" being either a buffer or a car.. It) to preform to the bare minimum is fine but even doing the bare minimum in any of those cars would be so much more enjoyable. I'm not trying to get a car debate going, not without more beer.. I love, my buffers. Walk a marina and ask detailers if you can see what one of theirs feels like in the hand. The DeWalt as an example is a little big for my hand on the handle which is why I often just use the head of the buffer the way I do. On a new Makita, this hurt after a while. If the buffer has a bump on its nose for a palm rest, it's for cars, ignore these for gelcoat. No real detailer uses one for long. That pad gets in the way in many nooks of a boat. Buy 4-5 Harbor freight ones and just plan on one dying every hour on heavy oxidation and every week on medium. Have a fire extinguisher handy. (personal experience watching a few flame-out) Dealer's choice my man but I have one answer. DWP849X by DeWalt. Peaces, Lee
From heavy cut strait to polish and then wax?
Watch more of my vids. This was one boat out of millions, they're all different. Lee
Hey man, I just wanted to take a moment to tell you how much I appreciate your work. I never thought my 12-year-old boat could look like this. As a plus you probably saved some serious time and $$$.
Glad it worked. Enjoy Summer.
Looks great! I have an 05 Cobalt 250 same color and I can’t get it that good! I watched a bunch of videos last year and definitely made a difference! Just getting ready to get at it again this year.
Make sure you're using a 3M wool pad. They are aggressive, more so than any other pad I've tried. Be aggressive on the cross-cutting and don't try to go fast. Also, use bright lights behind you while buffing to see your work from different angles as you move around. Good luck and thanks! Lee
Looks great! a good alternative is protect 1 from ditec. you should check it out. its super easy to use and flexes with the boat/doesnt crack. we love it
Lee one of the best teachers on youtube !!!!! Keep them tutorials coming buddy
Thanks. It's either this or I end up deleting hours of stuff a week. Cheers, Lee
Know anywhere I can get super duty? Everybody seems to be out and I only have 1 gallon left.
Yikes. There's got to be an autobofy supply store locally that sells it. It's made for paint correction (from the '50s) Lee
The Napa auto parts carries it.
Nice!
Thank you so much for all the information you have shared. I'm helping my daughter fix up a 2004 mastercraft skiboat. I used heavy cut and perfect-it ex ac. The red gel coat used to look white. After following your recommendations, it looks like brand new. I have fire glaze on order. My question is, can I apply fire glaze with a rotary polisher, or do I need to buy a da polisher?
Cool project, glad to hear that you got something out of the videos. Apply by hand (soft towel folded), small circles, remove by hand; soft towel and slightly larger circles. Or, yes, buy a porter cable dual-action polisher. Nice machine for all sorts of projects. Make sure your boat is clean and as she sounded a bit dry (the gelcoat) obviously, don't wait 3 years. I'd say repeat aFG application in 6 months. If it isn't "holding" the shine solidly after that, Perfect-it again, clean and on the colored areas, try Flagship by Meguiar’s. Buy some "Mirasol" spray by Restructure Marine or any polymer-based spray-detailer to keep the old girl clean and shiny. Happy Summer! Lee
Very nice inside and well kept definitely made for multiple over night stays .. On the other hand the outside is janked up.. hope they Find a buyer and that offer to them because it needs it .. Life on tight lines ain’t easy..
She's a little dry for sure. Lol
Will this work for metal flake gel coats as well?
Depending on how much is left. I've heard sanding the surface lightly 1st is best if the flake can be felt with your hand (bumpy and catchy) Do a test spot but it all depends on how much is left to work with. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood I have a 1988 bassboat with a red metal flake top cap. In the garage, it looks like a million dollars. On a cloudy day, it looks like a million dollars. When I am on the water, it looks like a million dollars until the sun hits it a just the right angle. Then you can see a cloudiness in some areas. Its like the gelcoat has something in it under the surface. I don't feel any flake coming through and I have used lots of different compounds on it including the 3m heavy cut which I read will remove 800 grit scratches. Maybe I am running the wrong speed. What rpm should the wool pad be run on the rotary? Is there a point where wet sanding is the only option or is there something even more aggressive than the 3m heavy?
You should use (only because they're the most aggressive) 3M pads. Slow works fine, friction heat isn't required or wanted. Keep updating me. Lee
Soooo did my test spot today - did 2 passes with SC then 2 with HC then one with perfect it then mothers, then Fire Glaze. and OMG went from a no reflection chalkboard with no shine whatsoever to shining like an ice slicked blacktop!!! I took multiple videos and photos- how do I get a few to you??
I think we emailed didn't we? Check your messages on youtube, on your channel. Congrats! I'm glad I didn't make a fool out of you. Just a heads up, the fire Glaze on top of a wax, might cut the expectancy of FG, just reapply every year and keep it clean. I generally use either one or the other, Flagship or Fire Glaze. Interesting to see how they last stacked up. Lee
@@Local_Boydidgood Thanks just sent 3 emails 2 with a couple pics attached each and one with link to folder - too large to email
Roger that! I'll check again. I just left that window so I'll check SPAM. Yup, spam. Looking now. Huge difference. Remember, with bright light, you can make the white look just as glossy. You might need to buy another bottle of heavy cut. The Perfect-it should last a ski boat or 3. Neat,thanks.i saved the movies. When you get done (good luck with tape removal. The green stuff tends to like to be messy/tricky to remove if it sits too long) When you're done, I'll add those vids into one and show people what you and your son will be Rock'n this Summer! Lee
Why don't you just use a fishing line to take off the emblem buff it out then stick the emblem on🤷♂️
It takes forever. I do, I charge for an extra 3-4 hours of my time. I shouldn't have to. It was a silly thing to put these on a boat.
Man we are talking about a Cobolt black and janky that was nice what you did Lee .. 👍👍 looks like the red is going to give you a fit …
It'll be the one part of the boat I'm not happy with (the red) We shall see.