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Was that Lynn hill?
« Une vie ça n’a pas de prix » la nature non plus elle n’a pas de prix. Comme tout elle a c règles… vous voulez tout modifié transformer etc… vous abîmez et faites souffrir notre terre en modifiant Etc… faut arrêter deux minutes
So, now the mixtake of not holding with the right hand ended 100% in fatal error. Amazing, such a big advance.
So the neox is more like the atc in the brake side ...if a rock hits you or a rattlesnake bites you and you let go of the brakeside the climber will fall to the ground if they fall at that moment...i like it but as a belayer id be much more comfortable with a grigri...just need to be better at giving slack
Please, tell me this song
What?????????? That may have officially sold me out of this product... Why buy a $120 ATC? Wow. Okay.
Looks nice! Any idea of how robust the neox wheel is towards dust? Specifically thinking of the ball bearings collecting dust while belaying outside.
Cracacá, cracacá....
"When I climb with a belayer I don't know I always watch what they are doing. If they let go of the break side of the rope, I won't let them belay me again. Never... Ever." Is one of the most German things I've heard, but in the best way
This is a double fisherman’s knot that can eventually be used for a prussik hitch, but currently this is just a loop of cord
did you carry all that stuff up there your self or was it already up there? (lol)
Assisted braking devices are nice in that they make belaying more comfortable. But for me, and I think many other people, the main value is the added safety. I almost always belay with an assisted braking device and prefer it if i'm being belayed by one. Yes, a good belayer should always be holding the brake strand. But we don't live in an ideal world, so that doesn't always happen. There's a chance that the belayer won't be properly holding the brake strand due to incompetence, laziness, or they could become incapacitated (rockfall/icefall). If that happens, it's nice to have a belay device that has a higher chance that the device will lockup on it's own in the event of a fall. It seems like the neox makes the belaying experience slightly better at the cost of decreasing the chances that it prevents injury/death.
*”it is not a device for self belay”* Clearly you get asked this a lot, it was my first question, and the first thing many of my friends had to ask. The fact that you made a point of saying this means you are aware that is what we want. So my question, if you are aware that many people want a self belay device, then why haven’t you made one? A device intended for lead rope solo, or one designed for top rope solo.
I mean, no one really does, do they? There’s a reason Silent Partners sell for a thousand bucks on the used market. LRS is high risk and niche. It doesn’t surprise me at all that it’s not a particularly catered to market.
Grigri+ and one little hole drilled so you can hold it up with a chest harness and backup knots
You’re talking about a very very small group of people who are asking this. Obviously the Neox is mass marketed for… the mass market. Belayers who are transitioning from a tubular, and gym sport/lead climbers who are required to use an assisted device in their gym.
Nice!
Can I rappel with the Neox?
Works effectively the same as a GRIGRI for this
I just take a quick draw and clip the loop on the rope back to my belay loop.
I've found I prefer it around the leg loop to keep it out of the way
escalade en isere tome 1 mentionned!!!!
Thank you
Thanks, great video and the Grigri has clearly established itself as THE belay device on the market for a good reason: Compared to an ATC or other older devices/ methods of belaying it provides a lot more safety, assuming you know how to use it properly. The big question with the Neox is: Does it provide the same reliabilty in terms of engaging in a fall scenario as the Grigri (+) when the belayer violates the brake hand principle? Clearly no good belayer should do that, but I see many people belaying not keeping their hand on the brake side of the rope at all times. It’s nice to feed out slack more quickly, but if this means less safety for me personally it’s not going to be worth it, as I can feed out all the slack needed easily with the Grigri already.
When I did my lead course few years ago my instructor among many other devices still had Grigri 1. It was clearly well used but still perfectly safe. Credit to Petzl for building gear that lasts this long. It doesn’t happen very often nowadays. I’m sure Neox will be the same
A slipknot would be better. No?
I would do a slipknot first, followed by an overhand-on-a-bite. That way you have the protection of the overhand knot without worrying about untying it when jammed.
I'm confused, this is literally what you can do with (basically) every belaying device out there? The knot will stop it, even if there isn't a break, and it certainly isn't any different from doing this with a Gri?
This is just to show that the device can go hands free, as lots of people were worrying that it wouldn’t lock up if someone did go hands free.
@@monke25 It might not lock up initially if the climber falls while the brake strand isn't being held below the device. But once it's locked it's similar holding force to a GriGri. The risk of letting go of the brake AFTER the climber is weighting the rope is if they unweight the rope, the device could pop back into wheel mode and drop the climber, that's why you need the backup knot.
@@Govanification but this problem also exists with the grigri. If the belayer lets go, and the climber does a little hop, then they have a high chance of falling. Just look at Hard is Easy’s video on it. The neox also has been shown to lock up if there wasn’t someone holding the break strand. They advertise as it being like lead with an atc, but it actually does lock, and it is just easy to unjam this lock, and only micro short rope instead of fully short rope. If that didn’t make sense, then tell me what else I have to further explain
@@monke25you are selling it better than Petzl. This is an odd video - it's as if they are bragging about something that literally any device can do. Gyms use GriGri for a reason, insanely low chance of a lawsuit from dumbass mistakes. This makes me believe that it does not lock up and is so untrustworthy that I need a stopper knot because that's always fun to rely on... But you are right, I have watched the Hard is Easy and it clearly worked and perked my ears up more about this device... but this video is just a mind f 😂 just weight the thing and grab a book. Why scare the heck out of people by screaming "DONT TRUST IT" - they need to let you and Hard is Easy or How Not To do their marketing. This has been an odd roll out all around, but this video takes the cake.
Thanks for sharing this. Does the knot serve as a weight to keep that side downward and also a stopper in case of accidental rope slipping?
Just a stopper
When the lab guy says "the Neox has no brain", perfect thing to add would be Vsauce music and "Or does it?"
Whoa! It's like that guy has actually climbed before... For an infomercial, I'm impressed! 🤣
Neox haters punching air right now.
😂😂😂
Personally, I prefer a slip knot with a beaner through the loop for backup.
Tickets are booked for October. This video inspired me to go to Chamonix and take an ice climbing course! ❤❤🎉
Hate de pouvoir le tester
For only 130 euro 😅
Grigri 2(175g), Grigri+(200g), NEOX(235g)... the weight is going up iteration after iteration, it's kind of annoying
Honestly shocked by this as I assumed it would be lighter than the Gri series as it seems simpler? 😳
Can't they just be honest and call it the GriGri 3?
They work differently. This is why we have 2 different names.
First two people to ever wear a helmet in Margalef.
Only for experienced climbers. Grigri is more universal and foolproof.
Essentially an atc with a lowering handle
it is not yet the definitive belay device. it's the cross between grirgri and revo but it doesn't solve the problems of both. for the grigri the problem is safety while for the revo it is the possibility of intentionally lock it. as you can see in the video, with the neox, if you don't hold the rope it doesn't lock while the revo always keeps the rope adherent to the pulley thanks to springs and guarantees locking. Despite this difference they are both CE EN 15151-1, for me comparable only if you hold the brake side of the rope... It is right to emphasize the fact of always holding the brake side of the rope but there are situations where the belayer can be compromised and not be able to do so, the outdoors always holds unexpected risks. for example a helmet can prevent you to get injured but it doesn't guarantee that you will be able to keep the belay under control. Whoever invents a revo with the possibility of controlling the locking action will have created the definitive belay device!!! Nerding apart i always love you petzl❤
Will the wheel need maintenance?
The place for that last quickdraw would have been the top anchor ring before clipping the PAS, not the belay loop...
Has this been tested with top-down belay and rappelling?
Hey ! Here are 2 articles for you => www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-a-second-from-above-with-GRIGRI--GRIGRI-Plus-and-NEOX?ProductName=NEOX www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Rappelling-with-GRIGRI-and-NEOX?ProductName=NEOX
bleibt es blockiert wenn man als belayer mit dem Gerät in die erste exe gezogen wird?
Reject modernity, embrace tradition: shoulder belay
I'm a little skeptical about the new NEOX. I would have expected the device to be improved not only in terms of easier rope pull-out but also in terms of safety. I am a little disappointed by the elimination of the anti-panic lever and the fact that the rope slips when the brake hand principle is missing 😞
I feel like this is more of an advanced gri gri, for competent belayers who are safe with a bug but like the added safety and support when belying sport climbing projects where you can relax a bit more when the device is locked specifically if you’re belying someone working their proj for an hour plus. I’ll stick with the gri gri though, I’ve gotten so used it now that I don’t really need the extra slickness while paying out, I just use dynamic belying, walking in and out from the wall to aid in paying out and taking in slack.
Those safety features are meant to safeguard against _user error._ Great if you're not a very confident belayer. If you are, they're an annoyance and a hindrance, imo.
@@TrackpadProductionsEven so called confident belayers can make mistakes though. I know this because I was dropped by a someone who had been climbing for years and was as high up in the local mountaineering club but still she dropped me while using a bug so I’ll take whatever safety features I can get with a belay device. I always think as well, what happens if a big rock falls on your belayer and knocks them out or kills them or even if they have some sort of medical emergency at least with some built in safety there’s less chance of you falling to your death. I personally won’t let anyone belay me with a standard bug now but even with a gringri I won’t let people belay me until I am sure they’re competent.
@@kevedwards Yeah, unfortunately that's kind of how it goes, though. If you want more safety features, you're _going_ to sacrifice performance and ease of use. A blocking mechanism that activates more readily is _going_ to be worse at paying out slack. A lowering mechanism that deactivates if you lower too fast is _going_ to be less efficient to lower with. It's not a flaw of the device, it's just the nature of belay devices. If you want those safety features, that's what the Grigri+ is for. You can't have your cake and eat it too.
@@TrackpadProductions Yeah, everything has a trade off I guess. I’ve used the gri gri for around 10 years now so for me it’s just natural and it’s rare it snags up while paying out but I could see how someone used to a bug will have difficulty with it. I think that’s where the Neox will shine.
I tak znajdzie się mistrzu piszący na smartfonie 😂
Why is it called NEOX!!!?
I just bought a grigri+ for smoother lead belaying and now you launch this, you're torturing me petzl
Why would you get a Grigri+ vs. a regular Grigri for lead belaying?
Sorry 😅
@@raphaelbeinhauer9242if I’m. Lt mistsken, the gri gri plus has a different range for different size ropes.
Where are they climbing? Looks awesome 😊
It's Margalef !
Difference between this and the gri?
Giving slack is easier, also the biggest difference is on the grigri idiots got to used to not holding the brake line, and there are very high consequences for not holding the brake line on the new belay.
@@elicoe9964 meaning, overall, is less secure?
@@elicoe9964so in a nutshell the cam needs tension on the brake line to engage, hence easier paying out?
Have you guys ever showed this video to Adam Ondra?
Saw and use the device on the Halls and Walls and it was honestly quite impressive
completely devoid of useful instruction