NEW VIDEOS EVERY OTHER WEDNESDAY!
Based in Hillsboro, Oregon, I am a full time knitting pattern tech editor, both for independently published patterns and knitting books, a sporadic knitting pattern designer and a fierce supporter of anyone who wants to learn how to knit. I believe you can knit ANYTHING if you're willing to take the time to learn!
When I'm not knitting, I enjoy watercolor painting, hand-building with pottery, tending my (too large) collection of plants and walking my pups with the Hubbs. Oh, and eating a lot of Doritos. A. Lot.
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Thanks for a great video 🎉🧶
This is a great video! Your explanation of how to convert from W&T to GSR really helped me to "get it". Thank you!
Hi, thanks good demonstration! I was confused by the first step to ‘insert purlwise’ but you inserted knitwise in the backloops? It is also written that way in an upcoming KAL. I thought purlwise insertion is from back to front and knitwise front to back. Why would you call it knitwise? ❤️ thanks for replying.
My question is how to do it when you have lost several stitches off your needle in a row (say about 6) and they have travelled down about 8 rows. It seems really hard as the loops across are so big with such a gap. Any suggestions?
ooh - that is a trickier one. I think if I were in your shoes I’d put a locking marker into each of the dropped stitches and work up each column individually. You can start at the left or right but work each column side by side - don’t skip back and forth between the edges. Your first few columns may have some wonky stitches (loose) but as you pick up the adjacent columns they will neaten up (and even more so with blocking). Good luck!!
Thanks for this. Made a big ladder on my first sweater. I needed this.
Hi Megan. Thank you for this tutorial and the clear illustrations. I have spent quite a lot of time thinking about short rows and imagining the shaping visually so I watched your videos with great interest and I think I understand it much better now. I do have a question for you though, which relates to what happens next. I have been in search of how to knit the perfect top down vest. I knit them using a cotton yarn so they act as a lightweight tank top and so far I have ended up using the method you describe the Faded T using . It works well and I pick up stitches both round the neckline and the arms and knit a band of garter stitch. However I keep wondering if I could knit the neckline instead merely using short rows as the neckline is a wider boatneck rather than a scoop. I just can’t quite understand if then the garment becomes a circular yoke and I want to be able to separate front and back to knit flat down to the bottom of the armholes and then join in the round for the lower part of the vest. I hope my explanation makes sense! My incentive to use short rows to shape the front neckline rather than than a just the back of the neck is so as to avoid picking up stitches and have a neater neckline but I can’t quite visualise whether the armholes work. I want the vest straps to be quite wide at the top say three inches. Any advice much appreciated, thank you, Hannah
Thank you. Clearly explained. I wondered where to place the marker. Very helpful.
I am a relatively new subscriber to your channel and, came across this particular video when looking for more information about top down yoke shaping - more on that in a moment. I am a family physician whose main goal is to help my patients be healthy and, while that often involves trying to motivate people to exercise and eat well, it also involves helping them to understand that weight is just a number on the scale. So often, especially in this "Age of Ozempic", people want to be thin since that is the ideal that has been held up to them their whole lives but many times these same people have normal blood pressures, blood sugars, and lab values so my job is to help them accept their shape and size. Your vulnerability shared in this video will be so helpful to so many people - thank you. My knitting challenge has been when my gauge doesn't match the designer's guage and I try to modify the pattern for my post-menopausal larger bust size. While admittedly not paying attn to row gauge, I tend to split for the sleeves too late in an effort to make sure that there are enough stitches for my bust and end up with larger arm holes than I want. I need to watch more of your videos to get a better understanding of that part of sweater construction. Thank you so much for your very generous sharing of your knowledge.
Your podcasts are excellent Meaghan. They are to the point, and I can understand you perfectly. Just the right length, and no mucking about. Thank you from Sue in New Zealand.
Absolutely lifesaver. I was beating my head against a wall here!!!
Thanks for your work on this, it's extremely helpful and clearly communicated. Sorry I'm late to the party (although I've subscribed now), and hope you don't mind me asking a question: I've always wondered, if you are adding significant depth to one side, should you also add increases to accomodate the larger circumference needed to complete the round? Otherwise, wouldn't you create a kind of hump? For example, I'm thinking of adding about 2" to the back of a fingering weight sweater, so will need about 18 short rows.
You’re most welcome and thank you for subscribing! And no, you don’t need any extra circumference with increases. I actually just added 24 rows to a fingering weight sweater myself and there’s no hump or puckering. You’re just changing the shape of the hem, not actually adding any real circumference. I hope this helps!
thank youu! loved this❤
This video has been so incredibly helpful in understanding construction before I start my first sweater. Now I have a specific question. If I need 10 short rows on my 100 stitch neckline, that comes out to 2.5 stitches. If I round up to 3, then by the time I get to the 10th row, I'm now up to 84%. Would it be a mistake to alternate my rounding: 3 past on rows 3&4, then 2 past on rows 5&6, then 3 again on rows 7&8, then 2 again on rows 9&10? Or is the 84% still in the acceptable range? Basically, which is the better alternative to perfection?
I’m so glad it’s been helpful! I like the way you’re thinking but would avoid the complication of alternating every other round. I think if it were me, I’d work 2 past on short rows 3, 4, 5 and 6 and then 3 past on short rows 7, 8, 9 and 10. It’s a marginal difference but just a little easier to remember.
This was so great! I have wondered about bigger swatches, but I’ve never seen anything about it. Everyone always does speed swatches. Personally, fiddly, and I’ve wondered about accuracy. To get an idea of our general personal gauge, would you recommend maybe doing multiple swatches in the weights that we normally knit with, so basically series of swatches, one in fingering, one in DK, one in worsted, etc? Love your podcast! SO insightful and practical. 🙂
Thanks so much for watching, Rachel! I'm so glad it was helpful. As far as swatching goes - yes, absolutely! If you have some yarn in your favorite weights, it would be an awesome exercise to swatch with them using a couple of different needle sizes. For example, I would swatch worsted weight with a US 7, 8, and 9 needle to get a sense of my gauges using those needle sizes. These are common needle sizes for that weight of yarn. While each pattern will have a different gauge, and each worsted weight yarn can have a different resulting gauge based on fiber content, how it's spun, how you work it (flat vs. in the round), etc., doing the exercise would give you an idea of what YOUR gauge is relative to that specific weight of yarn so you can make educated decisions about what needle size to use to swatch for a project. For example, I know my gauge on a worsted weight yarn with a US 8 needle is right around 18 sts / 4". This can, of course, vary from fabric to fabric or yarn to yarn, but I know that is my average gauge. With that information, if I come across a design where the pattern calls for a US 8 and a worsted weight yarn, but the gauge is 16 sts = 4", I know I'll need to size up a needle size or two - the designer has a looser gauge than me! I hope this helps! Happy knitting!
Fantastic 🎉
Fantastic! The light shone at the second method where you end up doing the K2tog. My reaction was ''What do you know! I didn't know such a method existed!'' No more fiddling with the tips that hurt my fingers! Thank you, thank you. 😁
Thanks so much for giving this clear overview of bust darts - really helpful. I also really appreciate your honesty wrt not "knowing" bust darts personally, but researching them and helping out us fellow knitters 🙏🥰
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I just realized that 4 rows back, I knit all the way to the end (skipping the sl3wyif), resulting in 3 purl bumps in that row of i-cord). Should I rip back 1 column of the I-cord at a time until it’s fixed, or try to rip back all 3 columns of the I-cord?
I definitely find it easier to go column by column. I think all 3 at once would be a bit overwhelming! Good luck!!!
Excellent tutorial! Clear and concise, my favourite kind ❤ Not too long, no waffling, no confusing explanations and a great video demonstration. Good job, you.
Thanks for sharing! It is hard to find detailed videos on this style of spindle. Does this method of winding on result in a center-pull cop so that you can ply it to itself?
You’re welcome! No, unfortunately not. It unwinds kind of weeble-wobble style. I found it easiest to put it in a basket or a deep box and wind it onto a bobbin using a bobbin winder (or by hand would work too). It can bounce around in the box so it doesn’t go skittering all over the room.
It lie like this in the bin for two hours.. i cried. Found this Video and completely got it back on track. My first brioche scarf. I feel like i mastered it😅 maybe it was luck. Thank you so much. Love from Germany.
Thanks Meaghan. I always learn something from your videos. I'm so sorry you had corrupted files on your video. That must be so frustrating and maddening. I fully understand you stepping back from creating content. You do what is best for your professional and personal life. I will be waiting when you are ready to produce more content. Give some loving pets to your cute pups.
Thanks so much - lots of love has been given to the pups as requested. ;) I've got a couple of video ideas rolling around in my head to release sooner than later so I'll be back before you know it!
You are the best ever. Thank you so much
I am finding it difficult to measure the yoke depth on an in-progress sweater. Any good advice about that?
If you're measuring it without trying it on, the best thing is to place the live stitches on waste yarn, lay it flat, and measure it perpendicular based on the measuring points. Some patterns will have you measure at the center front, others at the center back, so be sure which measurement is provided. Also, ensure you know if the length is measured from the top or bottom of the collar. It can differ from designer to designer. If you're measuring by trying the yoke on, once again, place the live stitches on a long length of waste yarn to pull it over your head and down your body. I like to test the length by trying to pinch the two edges of the yoke together at the underarms. If they just barely touch, I consider that the 'right length' (though this is definitely a personal preference). If they can't meet no matter how much pulling you do, you likely need to knit a little longer. If they meet easily or fall really far below your underarms when they do meet, it may be too long. A great option to consider is to go to your closet and measure the depth of the yoke of your favorite sweater. You can use this as a guide to determine your preferred length. Happy knitting!
@@TheUnapologeticKnitter So helpful!!! Thank you!!
Sound is great, and you answered my question about which increase method would look best for a stockinette sweater. Thank you!
Fabulous ❤
Thank you for the great explanations. I split for armholes with more stitches in front than back all the time (or reduce back width on seamed pieces) and it helps to reduce too much stretch in front and too much room/sag in the back. It fits better this way for me but it doesn’t always fix the front hem from riding up, so often I still do approx 6 to 8 rows of horizontal shaping. I usually start at the underarm about an inch from the side seam, so am very interested to try starting an inch from the front section. I have done vertical darts once and like the fit but still have to master hiding the increase/decrease stitches better (and maybe pick yarns that hide them better). Thank you for this podcast and for your sources, I look forward to learning more!
I’ve found my newest fav knitter to learn from!!! Thank you so much for all you do!!!
This is so sweet! Thank you! I’m glad the video was helpful for you.
Thank you so much! I learn sooo much from your videos! Even little tips like this one: the stability of the collar by picking up later! ❤
Thank you very much!
Hi Meaghan, your videos are incredibly helpful. Quick question: I am starting the Diggory Venn by Isabelle Kramer but it looks like the collar is wider than I prefer and even a bit narrower too. Top down, round yoke, the increases don’t start until after 2 plain knit rows after the collar ribbing. Would it be better to cast on straight for the yoke in the smaller size and come back and pick up for the collar and maybe add more depth? Or cast on the collar for the smaller size down and increase to stitch count of bigger size during increases? Or are they both kind of the same? Thank you so much for your advice!
You can do either; the effect would largely be the same. I prefer the first option since it will give me a secure edge and won't stretch out over time. Then, you can work the collar to your preferred length.
@@TheUnapologeticKnitter So would you cast on (that’s what would make it more stable?) and pick up stitches? Or cast on with provisional? Thank you!
@@mendezcher I would cast on with a normal cast on (German Twisted or Long Tail is my preference), then pick up and knit into it when it’s time to make the collar. A provisional cast on wouldn’t have as much stability.
Just found your videos, and I’m loving “binge-watching” them! I’ve just gotten to the point in my knitting journey where I’m really interested in “upping” my skills to be able to make sweaters that truly fit me. I’m in my late 60’s and haven’t used algebra since high school, but I found some KZread tutorials that refreshed my memory, and was finally able to solve for x & y in your equations! Woo hoo! (I always did enjoy math!). I feel like I’m really starting to get the hang of all of this gauge, stitch count, & modification stuff. A little more practice and I’m sure I’ll be able to knit anything I want! Thanks for sharing your expertise with us…!
Thank you so much for the time you have taken over the entirety of your podcasts. I have so enjoyed each one and will no doubt return to some when I need a refresher. Good luck with your goals for 2024. I will watch out for a future episode, in case you can spare the time
Coke-in-kneal, at least that is how I was told how to pronounce. Sheldrick looks fantastic. I should gift such a trip for my knitting wife...
Thank you for showing bringing both yarns back to the BOR. I'm using 3 skeins of the "same" color hand-dyed yarn for the body of the sweater. I want to go back to 1 skein for the short row hem and was looking for how to take my 3 live rows back to one live row.
Thank you Meaghan, for your time, care, attention to detail - your content and yourself. You are a very generous person, sharing your knowledge so freely. I hope taking time away from YT gives you the breathing space you need. I am sure you will be back refreshed and better than ever. God bless and keep healthy and happy. PS: I am sorry you had a craptastic day when you re-recorded this video 🤗🇨🇦
I so appreciate all you’ve shared!! And totally understand you need to set your priorities and goals. Glad you are busy and wish you luck with your other endeavors. 🧶♥️🧶
Thank you for all you’ve shared with us. Hope to see you back, but in the meantime I look forward to learning from you in other venues ❤
Thank you Meaghan for your invaluable catalogue of detailed, informative knitting know-how!!! As a fairly new knitter, you made a huge difference in this journey. Enjoy your precious family time and take care of yourself. Helen.
If the wool band gives the name of the yarn, I recommend searching the Ravelry database. Someone may have already done the work to figure it out. I was able to find an old yarn length per ball that way.
If one does not own a yarn swift or similar device, it is still possible to creat a skein from a ball. Two traditional methods come to mind. 1. Find a misbehaving child and have them stand in front of you with their hands out in front, upright and about shoulder width apart. Use the upright hands to wind the yarn into a skein. This method works with patient friends when a misbehaving child isn't available. 2. Place two chairs back to back. (Dining room chairs work well for this.) If you have chairs with fancy finials, use those, otherwise look for chairs with as straight a back as possible. Wind your yard into skeins around the chair backs. If you only have one chair, flip it over and use the legs instead - just be careful not to let your yarn slip down any tapered legs as the skein will be difficult to remove. Many thanks for these lovely videos, and best of luck with your other endeavors.
Awe 🥹 thank you so much for all the Podcasts. I hope you find balance during your break ❤
I've really enjoyed these. Thank you. Sorry to see you go as I am sure many of us are. Take care.
Thank you so much Meaghan for sharing your knowledge and time. I truly have enjoyed every video I've watched and wish you all the very best.
Thank you so much for all your clever videos and good luck 🧶😊
Thank you so much for sharing yourself and your knowledge with us. It’s been invaluable. Best wishes in your endeavors, and hope to see your return.
I totally get the finite nature of time, energy and brain power. Please know how much I have appreciated your thoughtful and incredibly well done content. I enjoyed the personal blogs as well 😊 I have learned the details from you that I couldn’t seem to find elsewhere. I was so grateful and excited when you answered MY questions! So wishing you success in reaching your goals this year! I will stay tuned.
You must keep yourself in good form! If you need to slow down somewhere… so be it. The expanse of knowledge here (these videos) is soooo much! And I thank you for adding to my tool kit w techniques, math (yay, my fave!), modifications … etc, the list goes on! I plan to go back to earlier episodes and refresh or, watch some I haven’t seen. I’ve saved quite a few already for future reference. Thank you for all you do and have done already! Take care of yourself, most importantly!! Be well, hugs!
I want to say a HUGE thank you for all your hard work, and wish you well in your life and creative endeavours. All your episodes are valued and I appreciate all the research you have put into sharing your knowledge with us so that we can become better, and more confident knitters.