Welcome to The Board!
This channel is all about Mechanical Keyboards, the community around Mechanical Keyboards, and is in conjunction with The Board Podcast series (theboard.libsyn.com).
An enthusiast who believes in spreading the word and love of all things mechanical keyboards, it doesn't matter if you are a clicky, tactile, linear, or electro-capacitance user, we love it all here.
We hope we can continue to provide content for you related to keyboards such as reviews, how-to's, and other interesting discussions.
If you'd like to support our podcast series hosting costs, and also help fund us get more keyboards, keysets, have things we can do giveaways with etc, we would more than appreciate your support.
You can support us through our donation link, or Patreon found on our podcast page,
We also have TeeSpring and Redbubble collections to check out!
Credits to Oddisy for our logo, and Outragedpudding for our banner art!
Thanks for watching!
Пікірлер
Heat first before vac solder is not needed flux definitly is not flux in wire
Don from The Board! Work continues, and you are one step closer to the completion!
Thanks Noah! Yeah, I think it just goes to show the 'real' time it takes to do restorations, where other restoration channels show supercut/sped up works at times rather. Also I'm doing it with mostly hand-work haha
Don from The Board! you did some good restoration!
Thanks Noah, not as good as if I had done a complete strip and repaint! Still happy with the end result with my limited skills and experience though :)
Can gum be used?
It depends really on the type of gum binder and how much carbon or conductive material that is mixed into the gum binder.
sheeeeeesh
Yeeeeeeeees?
All very interesting stuff, may I ask where in oz are you roughly ? Great content..
Sydney area :)
@@theboard I’m on the central coast, mate
@@Johadart Jealous of the shed space opportunities you have haha.
@@theboard I have no shed space.
@@Johadart Damn, thats a real shame!
looking into this at the moment, as I'm building for ISO-BE, and ... we all know how much sets are available for that region ;). Was wondering how the keycaps are holding up. As it's of course a lot of money; and I'm building it as a present for someone into green/orange theme (as they like the outdoors & foxes). Anyway, just wanted to know if anyone had experience recently and of course longer if the keycaps were made and used. Thanks for the video, very in depth, loved it!
The ones I got aren't in heavy use so I can't really say about regular durability but as they are dyesub, dyesub is pretty durable but subject to things like finger oil chemistry and realistically how much use each person actually does (and on what keys). I would expect there to be some shine but I wouldn't expect rapid rapid wearing to the point where you'd wear away the legends.
Hi, I had a keyboard called Motospeed ck104 (a famous keyboard). It has great backlight modes but I want to program it. There is a backlight mode called "vibrant color mode", it has 7 different colors. Unfortunately, it doesn't have orange color with this mode. Is there a way to program it so it shows Orange vibrant color?
Sorry, I can't find anything about being able to change to orange, but I generally don't play around with lighting effects in custom modes or software drivers, perhaps ask on the mechanical keyboard subreddit or in one of the keyboard discords/groups depending on where you are.
Thank you ! Great video. How do we test when an entire column breaks ?
You will have to test two things really to understand if the column is traced as a series or in parallel. To test if in series, you test switch column pin to next switch column pin up and down relative to each switch and see which ones have continuity, and then test from one end of the column to each switch. If you map it out that way you will see where a break is, and also if it is in series or in parallel. If it is in parallel, then a break in a single trace will not impact other switches, where as a series trace broken will affect switches after the break, always from the MCU pin. If the entire column is not functional but switch to switch continuity is fine, then it means the trace is broken between the switches to the MCU pin.
@@theboard would be nice seeing a more main stream board like corne.
@@Kaiyes_ Not sure what you mean, do you mean you want to know how the matrix is laid out for the corne? If so, you could probably find it in repos, or look at various build guides for the same PCB as whichever version you're after, and then look at the traces on the PCB to figure it out if you can't find an actual repo. I don't have a corne so I can't check/build a matrix off it.
@@theboard oh I'm building a corne. One column doesn't work. So was trying to find how to videos. Your video came up. I think I will rewatch your video few times. I'm just trying to learn how to use a multimeter to trace a why a column has broken is all
@@Kaiyes_ Ah, well have a try and reach out again if you need to :)
Don from The Board! A bit closer!
Every bit of rust that comes off is a flake closer lol
Clear nail varnish and polyurethane work far better with the nail varnish drying harder and the polyurethane drying like rubber... Nail varnish will measure a current with as little as 0.25/1 ratio although 50% is preferable... Polyurethane on the other hand requires 1/1 to work well but will also work with 50%. As for making a circuit with a mixture, even the PVA should work well, perhaps try a 200% mixture... Trace the glue out like a circuit and then dust graphite over the glue, leave to dry and then blow off the excess... Remember, patience is key here... The idea of the surface dusting is to decrease resistance within the circuit and thus reduce heat as these kinds of conductive materials can be extremely prone to resistance and will heat up and burn out very quickly... In the industry they use silver oxide I believe mixed with epoxy resin which works extremely well, with extremely low resistance... I'd say using graphite is a good choice but I make DIY conductors using all kinds, iron filings, graphite, copper oxide, silver oxide, sodium, magnesium powder... And have found some very interesting results
Hi John, Thats a really interesting approach in that using a 'surface' coating kind of approach to reduce resistance, which makes perfect sense. Great feedback! The only thing I can think of directly for some materials like iron powder/filings is oxidation/rust which would significantly increase resistance/reduce conductivity. Which any materials surface sitting than embedded would potentially suffer similar 'degradation' maybe? If I can find where my graphite went, I can definitely give it a further try some time haha. Cheers!
Don from The Board! This project is coming along nicely!
Thanks Noah as always :)
Can it be set only for blue color?
woah good good stuff and massive congratulations on hitting 5k subs :)
Thank Alan
software drivers please
Congratulations Don! Amazing feat to reach this huge amount of subscribers. As you probably are aware I rarely check out the videos but every now and then I do and it is good to hear you continue on. My favourite would definitely be one of the earlier videos with the keyboard, artisan or related items videos. Congratulations on this, it really is impressive! Lots of love from the Netherlands
Joris~!!!!! I hope you are doing well and living life to the max my friend, it has been indeed a very long time, but thank you for such a wonderful message. Thank you for the support from afar for all these years, without you and many of the others from the start, we (and I do mean we!) wouldn't have been able to get this journey started haha. Much love in return <3
Big grats :)
Thanks!
Don from The Board! Congrats! Yay for the Aussie who wins!
Thanks Noah! I hope eventually I might be able to do an international giveaway one day haha
@@theboard woohoo!
Actually disappointed in the review if I was going to use it to make a purchasing decision. I was expecting you to make actual calibration adjustments based on the data then retest to see if that made a difference. At the end you could have just reset your iron if those adjustments didn’t work out.
Appreciate the feedback. Sorry to disappoint. I actually have never calibrated/recalibrated my irons, just not really a requirement for the level of soldering I do, but I do understand the concern if you need absolute certainty of the temperature. If you need something to that level however, it probably is worthwhile in getting a trusted quality device though, and not a cheap clone. Sometimes, how much you pay for is worth it, for various reasons.
hello i just purchased my custom key cap set and i was wondering how long for you did it take for the designers to reach out to you and i’ve had no response from there inwebsite chat not email, many thanks :)
They were pretty quick, like in one day, but you do need to consider that my interaction with them is that they provided the sets, so it would have been in their interest to respond quickly for my 'review' experience. You might want to follow up with them if you can if you're concerned.
Don from The Board! I've used this style, the cheap metal u puller, and the rubberized longer tong pullers. I don't have a favorite, I just use what seems to work for the board I'm working on. I wonder what most people find most effective.
I find my cheap puller bends too easily if I'm not careful, and it can also break the switch housing on the more brittle tops if I squeeze too hard, where as I guess this style kind of helps reduce that risk.
@@theboard I've been pulling Khail box blue switches and the top taps have been breaking
@@NoahMinyard I tend to find the clear tops break much easier than the solid colour plastics for sure.
@@theboard the ones I pulled have white tops
@@NoahMinyard You're just too strong without knowing it! haha
Waste of time your tutorial was useless
Not sure why you think it was a tutorial since the title says review, best of luck looking for the information you're after.
@@theboard I meant to say review. Coz I couldn't see anything like result etc
@@XaidiRecords What kind of result are you wanting to see? I unboxed it, turned it on, shows how it works, focuses, zooms, connects to PC input. How 'well' it does it is subjective to the individual users requirements, I don't have other units to compare this unit to, so its difficult to make that element part of the review.
I used your version of the V-Model on your version of the V-Model... pretty cool. Thanks for the information and showing it applied.
how do you get to X1200? got close as possible and doesn't look anywhere near that magnification
Once you get to the closest physical position and focus, the 'digital' zoom is what provides the remainder of their claimed magnification. You need to use the Zoom + button on the unit.
@@theboard do not see that anyplace
@@djl2033 manuals.plus/mustool/g1200-digital-microscope-manual The up button is Page up Zoom +
@@theboard fantastic, thanks
@@theboard one more dumb question..how do you actually take a pic? haha...I think in camera mode and just press OK? but doesn't say anyplace thanks
Don from The Board! Keep it up!
Thanks Noah, always appreciate you dropping by :)
hey guy, my software doest work, appear " device is not connect" can you help me ?
Most likely not really, I haven't really done anything with the software since, and its been 3 years now so I don't know if whatever software available for this is the same anymore.
Did anyone ever produce a DIY kit? This is the layout I've been looking for.
I had a very small run of kits, but there wasn't a lot of interest, so after that was all gone, no more were done unfortunately.
Super useful video! I have not long inherited a few tools with a #80 being one of them, so nice to naturally come across a video explaining the ins and outs
Hi Chris, I'm glad you found it useful! Happy scraping :D
Getting a keyboard using this website. So exited!
Hope you enjoy it!
Don from The Board! I'm following along still. Thanks for the update on the project!
Good to see you Noah, nope you're keeping well :) Thanks for watching of course ^_^
Don from The Board! Looking forward to the wrist rest journey!
Hey Noah, good to see you again! Hopefully it can give people an appreciation of what hand tools work is like and why handcrafted goods are so expensive haha.
that's not a jack plane that's a try plane they are used for dressing rough and smooth surfaces flat like face and edging timber Mathieson try planes are usually around 560 mm long , a jack plane is can flatting and smoothing hence called a jack plane because its a jack of trades Mathieson jack planes are usually 460 mm long
Interesting! I hadn't come across that information. The plane doesn't have a super wide mouth, so I would say you can certainly do smoothing with it, I was not able to use it like a scrub plane to take massive shavings!
Hello mate! Is it compatible with Microsoft Windows 10/11, Mac OS 10.5 or newer version?
It was compatible with my Windows 10 Pro, I can't vouch for 11 or MacOS unfortunately.
@@theboard hello, can i plug the microscope to compter and see the image on the pc monitor too ?
@@onk245 at 21:32, I plug it into the PC and the image you see in the middle of the screen is overlay from the PC.
the cross that connects the keycaps to the switches broke in 2 days
That seems to be unfortunate. If you believe its a manufacturing fault issue that caused the stem to break in 2 days, best contact where you bought it from, or Razer I guess, and discuss if they would replace it maybe.
@@theboard bought it from amazon, ill see what i can do
can this be connected by blue tooth?
According to the official details, yes iqunix.store/products/le-petit-prince-keyboard
god bless for planes
Thank goodness for innovation!
Don from The Board! Thanks for the review! I tend to stick with TKL for home use and full size for work but I like the idea of 65%. I got the Random Frank P board and it's nice.
Hey Noah~! I'm still very much a 100% or 96key user where I can but 60%-65% can be fun. My brother actually bought one of the GammaKay LK67's on sale apparently so when it comes in I'll help him with some switches, maybe some keycaps or something as he's never been down to such a small form yet!
i absolutely just hate how america centric the whole custom keyboard stuff is. most keycaps are only ANSI US. and only the ugliest kaycaps sets even have the possibility of buying ISO nordic if i want to pay 300€ extra for few keycaps and wait 10 years for them because its a fucking group buy bullshit. and why would i spend a total of 400€ on white keycaps with black letters, if i wanted that i could go to the closest computer store and get them for 10€. i just wish that there was an european company that makes keycaps. because now my only options are to either have ugly keyboard, or suffer with cool keyboard that i can never use because the layout is absolutely horrible.
GMK is a European Keycap manufacturer, their retail shop is uniqey.net/ That said, set creation is primarily by designer, so what you really want are designers who are ISO Nordic creators whose base sets include your required keycaps. That is hard to get though since to reach MoQ for orders, catering to the international audience means unfortunately mostly ANSI layouts at a minimum.
@@theboard which basically means im never gonna have cool keyboard.
:P Just need to win a lottery or something or start a Nordic keyboard movement :D
I have the cream blue and ocean blue on other kb's, thinking about trying these for a new keyboard and from your description I think I'll like these. Thanks for the in depth review, I'll try them with some 'cheap' keycaps first to see how they do in terms of the stress issue.
Hope you enjoy them!
Don from The Board! This is an interesting desk accessory, thanks for the review!
Thanks Noah! Always appreciate the watch :)
@ajazzldn Is there any way for the keyboard to display one color?
Hey if you don’t mind helping me please, how is the keyboard charged and what indicator to show it’s charging. Because I’m using usb 2.4g wireless connection snd after a while it’s shows a red light on FN key and it doesn’t work.
Can you clarify what you mean by using usb 2.4g? If you are using the switch on the 2.4g side, its using wireless connection, not USB? Or do you mean you are plugged into the USB but the switch is on the 2.4g? According to the manual, when you are connected with the USB cable and in either BT or 2.4g, the Fn light will blink to indicate charging. If it is solid red then battery is low. However when I have mine plugged in, it is solid red also In USB mode though, the light is also on as solid red, so I'm not 100% if it is charging or not. I do not have my USB voltage pass-through handy, I'm not 100% sure where it is, but if you get one (something that measures USB current draw), you would be able to plug it in and check if it is drawing higher current indicating it is charging, rather than standard operation, even with the LEDs on. Sorry I can't be more helpful than this at this point in time!
Ohh I see. Just to clarify, yes I was talking about 2.4g wireless connection. I do like to have rgb on so I think the battery goes down faster, and so every couple of days the rgb will still work, but not on the fn key as it’s blinking red, I assume that is just telling me I gotta charge it. Thank you for the response though I really appreciate 🙏
No worries, hope you keep enjoying it!
im just tryin to repair my life smh
Did you check you don't have cold solder joints in your life?
Don from The Board! Good job on the repair!
Thanks Noah, I'm very much glad it actually worked, they told me like 3 days after I gave it back to them lol.....
thanks so much for the video.. i have a question and would appreciate your answer. i just bought the rode sc6-L (i will be using the lavalier mics it comes with the kit) and i will record a podcast for 2 people. now my question is about the angle for the footage. i have three iphones and i want to have three different angles(on the first - me - and also of the both of us together) how can i do this? would really appreciate your help. thank you.
You could look at maybe something like this - www.macprovideo.com/article/iphone-app/shooting-low-budget-multi-cam-videos-for-live-shows-and-music-videos
Don from The Board! Garage time fun! Tool repear time! You've been on this journey and im excited to see how it all connects back to keyboards!
Hi Noah! hahaha, well, it will hopefully eventually, all come together lol :P
Oooooo now this is a cool coloration, its a good book
🙈 Promo*SM
click clack
Clackity click
Don from The Board! Continuing to follow along!
Hi Noah! Well, its working haha. Will have a video or two that will be a little more direct keyboard I hope, to break it up a little before back onto making a wrist rest!