This is basically my hobby channel. If I’m into something deeply there’s a good chance I’ll have videos about it, at least until I (usually temporarily) lose interest! So I’ve rambled on about photography, watches, cars, knives, motorcycling, stereo and electronics, tech, music synthesizers, and other random topics. Who knows what is next - subscribe and find out!
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there is one more plus to these focal plane bodies, that is the mirror up, self timer and multi exposure features, the multi is a reason to switch, as you don't have to take the back off (great as the shutter is right there !! so saves scratching it), you just open the winder and hit the button underneath.
Do you still have this watch? how's the lume now after 12 years? i bought a copy used because i fell in love with the B series with the 45mm case diameter
Hi ! great video and framing! I was wondering which spotmeter you are using, and what's the viewfinder you have around your neck ? thanks !
This was my first serious camera lens on my Leica M3.I kind of forgot about the aperture being so smooth and round. I used to shoot it wide open or at F2 all the time and loved the background blur or Bokeh. It got stolen and I never replaced it but now that I’m older, I might buy one again but have no desire to go back and buy my M3 again as a I shot film for years and now I shoot digital and love it. With mirrorless cameras, you can use these old lenses and shoot silently. That was what was nice about the Leica because the shutter was so quiet and you could focus in any light with the M3. The SLR‘s in the early days were terrible for focussing in low light. Unfortunately this lens flares really badly even without the sun in the picture, just bright lights. So I’m hoping at some point in time. I could try this lens out before buying it although that probably won’t happen but maybe one day I’ll buy it. I’ve been buying some old Takumars and Konica lenses and enjoying these ones so maybe one day I’ll have one again. I enjoyed your review of this old timer. Regards Gerry
That looks fun
Totally! Need to do it again with the new lights.
Thanks :-) I can only imagine how lively and fun the full 27.5" setup must be!
Congrats! I have a V4 5010 and it's just a flat out fun bike for anything. I mostly ride flow trails and jump lines with it. I installed a Cascade Link and it really woke the bike up!
Buchla was a genius. His synths are so special. Ive been getting into west coast style synthesis recently and its incredible just how different buchlas approach really was. Amazing stuff!
The Oyster bracelet really makes this a substantial piece of kit, the Jubilee bracelet is so flimsy and rattles about
Mike thank you for sharing this most beautiful spot, wished they would open it up more often for us workin guys , its way to beautiful to trash up and to beautiful to hide from decent people
@@perryhoward5064 Thanks for your comment. Yeah, it’s been closed up even more. Unless things have changed recently, it’s only open on Thursdays or via guided tours. Too many losers trashing the place, if you can believe it. Very sad.
@@mike.thomas oh thanks for the update
@@perryhoward5064 I just looked at the website (www.lowerhowardscreek.org/Plan_Your_Visit/Organized_Hikes/organized_hikes.html) and it is pretty confusing. They were allowing more days of visiting, but there’s no coverage of summer 2024 🤷🏻♂️.
Great lenses ! Shit camera !
I've shot quite a few rolls through mine and never noticed the red progress indicator! Thx!
I saw my optometrist about this problem that had been going on for over a year. It was irritating but not what I would call painful. It felt like a grain of sand in my eye. After my eye exam, I was told had a scratched cornea to the point of erosion. She sold me a bottle of I Pur eye drops (no preservatives) to use every hour and suggested using Systane gel before bed. That worked for about a week, then it started over again. I kept using the eye drops and bought 3 more bottles of the drops and 2 tubes of the gel. Didn't make much difference. I finally called my GP and she suggested patching my eye for up to 7 days. I did that and after 3 days my eye felt 70% better. I took the patch off but used it when needed for the next few days. That was 2 weeks ago. I now use the eye gel 3 times a day and am not patching they eye and it's 99% better. The patching was the key, to keep my eyelid from moving so I couldn't blink. I have an appt with an eye specialist in Aug for a check up and to schedule cataract surgery on that eye (Yes, it's a PITA eye). So, I'll keep doing what I'm doing until then. Also, I bought a pair of very dark sun glasses to wear over my regular eye glasses when outside and have yellow lens clip on lenses for my glasses when I am using a computer screen. That's my story. My optometrist told me she was surprised I wasn't shielding my eyes with my hand and that I wasn't in severe pain from it....I guess I'm a tough cookie. Anyway that's my story. I strongly suggest patching the eye for several days to let that cornea heal. Good Luck, I hope my experience is helpful.
Always tape the surface before you cut!!!!
How are you now?pls reply?i m facing the same
As I have aged, I have to get up and use the bathroom more at night, so I end up putting extra lubricating gel in a couple of times. That seems to have reduced occurrences. Also (and this is not necessarily good) when I do get one, it does not hurt nearly as much as when I was younger even though my sight could be wiped out in the injured eye. I fear I have some nerve damage. Not much to do about it, though. Overall, I’d say much better than 10 years ago.
@@mike.thomas oh how you treat it in your younger age?any operation?or any bandage contact lens?
@@bijayaghosh2312 I only had a couple of BCL treatments, and those were not more than 3-4 years ago (I’ve had the malady for decades). They were effective (one for 4 weeks and one for 2), and I do wonder if their use had a lasting effect on my eyes. Last eye exam, my ophthalmologist said he could not even tell I had RCE as an issue (still hasn’t prevented me from having occurrences prior to the visit). All that said, I do think that applying fresh gel a couple extra times per night is the primary thing keeping me from having as many RCEs these days.
i'm not getting any sound from this video❓
Thank KZread and music publishers for killing the sound in some regions because it contains a minute or two of commercially released music. You know they wouldn’t want you to maybe discover something new and possibly buy the recording 🤷🏻♂️.
thanks boss
For a7 classic works ?
I doubt it. The grip slightly changed for the A7II.
I watched the video without the sound so I'm not sure if it was mentioned. Anyways remember to cock the shutter before the back is attached. Otherwise camera will rewind your film to the next frame, wasting the first one.
No, I think I failed to mention that. It was never an issue for me because I always kept bodies and lenses cocked. Still, it’s a good pointer!
You are more than welcome. I thank you for feeding my audio/video obsession! 😊
Absolutely delightful! I thoroughly enjoyed the tour. Marvelous set up. Thank you so much for sharing the love!
Thanks for your comment :-)
Tire pressures??
Yeah, arguably too high for the conditions. On the flip side you’ll see lots of experts here on YT suggesting it’s not worthwhile adjusting pressures on an ADV bike when switching surfaces. Anyway, yeah, they were at road pressures.
one other point, you forgot to mention the 2000/200/503/205Fcc/205Tcc focal plane bodies have a cloth shutter there, NOT baffles, the 2000 models need special attention, as the titanium shutter is right there!!-don't want to scratch it!!!
You’re not wrong, but the majority of people who come to view this video are not going to have a focal-plane body. The majority of all Hasselblad owners, ever, are not going to have a focal plane body. They represent a niche of a niche these days (in my opinion). I only got into them myself later in my Hasselblad ownership, at which point I did a do series of videos about them (and did mention the fragility of the shutter 👍).
@@mike.thomas thanks, yes, being on the Autism spectrum, I am aware of their rarity, but I did include it, as for instance the 'Hasselblad Expert' KZread channel has one, and videos with it often, esp. today (kzread.info/dash/bejne/e66ry8prg73PkbQ.html); I often comment on his channel to, esp. as he has a few beginners handling his gear, using his HASSY PB, so the more we (as a user community) get these oddities and quirks out there, it informs people, and prevents damage to these 'Gems' so others can use them, and experience the same joy that we do, with Analogue photography.
my first roll was loaded into my newly purchased Hasselblad thanks to you. other tutorials were not as good as yours.
I love hearing that. Thanks for taking the time to comment! Happy shooting 👍
I like going counter-clockwise since it makes that "feature" (7:15) a little more fun!
Yeah, good point ;-)
Hold the mode selector down button down until the display turns blue, your bike is now in walk mode. Hold the down button for walk assist while pushing ur bike.
Thanks! I’m embarrassed to say I knew that “some” bikes/drives have a walk mode, but never even checked mine. Made for a good workout pushing 50lbs around 😅.
Street motorcycle with street tires on gravel.
You paid $50 for a blue note classic reissue? You’re a dork!
Still a valuable resource years later. It had been a while and I needed a quick refresher, 👌
I love hearing that. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Was the mileage mentioned? I didn't catch it if it was. Since the clutch needed to be replaced I assume it was not under 50k. If it needed a clutch then the IMS and the rear main seal are obvious tasks to get out of the way along with probably a water pump. The LN bearing is pricey because people will pay for the reputation it has, with that sticker in the door the value of the car goes up $2k and the fear of the IMS for the buyer is gone, worth it without doubt. The color combo is excellent, difficult to understate a good color combo on a Boxster, there are SO MANY silver or guards red with black interiors. I've noticed as the 986's reach 25 years of age many have bad leather on the driver's seat and often the passenger as well, I suspect from simple age. Not sure if keep the leather fed will stop that, it's 25 years after all. The plastic window on the top gets brittle and of course gets cloudy, replacement with a glass window that is also heated is the way to go. Never heard a tan top getting more dirty looking than a black top, I think it'd be worth it cosmetically, don't see all that many tan tops. A forest green hard top would be an awesome addition but finding one would be a real challenge and painting one would not be cheap and hard tops are not cheap either, folks ask $2k or more, not sure they get that price given how difficult they are to ship to non local buyers. I found the black plastic grills inside the roll bar hoops get VERY brittle from years of sun shining on them, they will crack if you look at them incorrectly and are at least $50 each to replace and are of course sided. My 1998 came with bald tires, replaced them with Michelins from COSTCO for around $750. A discerning Boxster buyer would know what your car represents and give you what you have invested up to now and the value will only go up as other similar age Boxsters encounter problems simply from time. Great very informative video. The radio is indeed terrible but I never use it. I found Porsches have blind spots, I think it's a German thing, like you I had several 911's from late 1960's to late 1980's and none of them had heat or a/c worth a darn, the heat tried to kill me many times and nothing I could do could stop the carbon monoxide coming in. The a/c and defrost were simply silly. I lived two years in Germany and it never gets very hot, guess that's why it took them decades to come up with decent a/c even though the USA has always been a huge market for Porsches.
I've seen this guy land some sweet jumps.
😂
I have had over 100 scratches in the past 3 years. A piece of sand? I WISH!!! More like shards of glass being shoved in your eye. I need opioids the next day and I'm out. Is this a form of Ocular Surface Disease? I have horrific doctors. I'm going to Canada to get care. PS. You are right about drinking water. Also make sure the ointment and drops are preservative free or it starts breaking down the eye tissues after long term use like we need. Also: You have got to use a preservative free lubricant drop, they help heal it up Refresh Optive Mega Lubricant Eye Drops (Preservative Free) with flaxseed oil. They are the best drops on the market. If you scratch your cornea a lot, ask your doctor for Tylenol with Codeine for these extremely painful days. It takes away the pain, but you'll have to sleep a bit with lubricating gel (pf GenTeal PF gel drops or ointment) Helping heal your eye even more.
one tip Mike, with LF lenses, they go to f 35 ,54 or 64 so at f 22 you are well safe from diffraction, a MF or 35 mm camera, on the other hand, Yes you would be in the diffraction zone at f 22 as this is the most common full closed down aperture, except for macro lenses, which go to f32; where a safe f stop would be f 11/ f 8 .
i have the same problem, did you find soulution for it?
In this case I returned to the seller.
Risky for the filament supply !!! .............and a big mistake ..........winged C ( st Petersburg ) is a very high quality tube.............the Sovtek ( fake Tungsol ) is NOT ! Other good tubes are the 6550A GE and the Sylvania , both nos....current production doesn't come close to the quality of these... The tube you use are the new hype and a prisoner market........quality in production is very variable ........stay away from these kind of tubes .
i went to the hospital and they put the tetracaine eye drops in. INSTANT relief!! it was a young guy who gave the left overs of the little tube it comes in and a whole full bottle of it!! but yeah its counter productive and can make it worse unfortunately. Im going through a bout of RCE now, to m not allowed to use my Tetracaine anymore and just have to suffer through it. im on day 8.
Great progress! Which Loam Ranger video were you referring to in the description? I'm also a newbie looking to do some jumps, and I'll take whatever advice I can get, lol.
Hey, I should have included that in my description, a? Here's the link: kzread.info/dash/bejne/pW2rlNyMptjHd7A.htmlsi=RRtvfNVVek7Bxgc8 It really truly is about as simple as he says. For me the major issue was just getting over the fear of having both wheels in the air, even if it's only a few inches.
@@mike.thomas Right on! Thanks for the link and for sharing your experience, looking forward to your next progress video. :)
Get it Mike!
Gotta start somewhere, and this was a really good day, IMO 🎉
Nice!
microfiber cloths and your microfibre paint brush leave material fibres on the record. You should be using a carbon fibre brush to work in the cleaning fluid. You should never touch your records with tap water !!!!! And you wonder why there is dust/microscopic material filaments on your record after cleaning that you remove with your carbon brush. No carbon brush is going to remove the calcium and other deposits left from the tap water.. Your records probably are in worse condition after you have cleaned them with your method.
Thanks for taking us along with you on this ride. Looks like I need to get back there and check it out. I've been there before but have yet to explore these two roads. I went as far on Six Mile as the place where you saw the truck in the video near the creek; that's about it. Lol. I must get back there asap, this time with my camera working.
Yeah, it’s a worthy location. I’ve ridden it 3-4 times, I think. If you look at my motorcycle playlist you can see I’ve been there on my DRZ400 a couple of times, too. That first (south) segment of Six Mile Creek is the most fun, IMO. Joe’s Branch Road is good too, but has some deeper gravel in spots (at least when I’ve been there), and I don’t consider that aspect particularly fun. Six Mile Creek out to Lockport is pretty boring, and often has fresh gravel. You can see more in the DRZ400 videos.
This is beautiful bro. Im inspired.
Aww, thanks! I appreciate it :-)
you are 1/2 right about the rail bracket, I have a sinar F2 and they call it a 'rail clamp' so guess it could apply to all modular camera designs; also if you extend your F -field there is NO reason not to use TWO rail clamps!, and tripods, of course to support the 'diving board' end, and give balance to the extreme extension, esp. if they are the smaller footprint ones.
great video, but a question, what happened to the Arca-Swiss F-field, and F line basic, and the Chamonix F1 that you did videos on?, would have thought those would have given enough experience with shooting LF?
The Horseman was the first LF camera I tried. The others came later. I probably should have just started with the Arca Swiss, but sometimes we take a curvy path to the finish. Interestingly, I still have the Horseman as a “just in case I get back into it” option.
I would never run my Magnapan 1.6 with my T-amp, but my Klipsch La Scala clones sounds good with the T-amp.
Yeah, I wouldn’t either - it was just a fun experiment. I bet those clones sound great!
I just ordered the purple crush XT build with carbon wheels. Looking forward to get it out next week.
Nice! Definitely a notch up from my build, and I dig my build so you are golden 👊.
I am toying with a wheel upgrade, BTW. I have a Spank 950 build and a We Are One Faction build sitting in a cart at customwheelbuilder.com. Need to decide which way to go.
@@mike.thomas what build did you get and do you know what your bike weighs?
@@fattie2550 I got the SRAM “NGX” build. I am pretty agnostic between Shimano and SRAM, but my other two bikes have SRAM brakes and I preferred to keep that the same. I did the “weigh yourself holding the bike” trick, and came up with 25.5lbs (I think?). Pretty sure I already had the pedals (PNW composites) on, too. Oh, I eventually swapped the saddle out for an Ergon SMC Core, and the bars for Ibis carbon.
@@mike.thomas That’s the company where I bought my wheels from. I have the NOX Teocalli with DT Swiss 240 hubs with 54T ratchet. Did you just buy the Ibis frame and build yours? I bought the complete bike from Ibis and using my carbons wheels instead of there heavy 933 alloys.
Nice video, looks like a fun trail network, fast and flowing. I’m considering adding a HT back into the mix and the DV9 seems to fit the bill. Been 20 yrs on FS bikes so I’m hoping I’ll enjoy it and not get too beat up (back issues. lol). I’m 5’9” (shrinking with age, haha), what size you go with?SE Pa trails seem similar to what you are riding. Ibis says M (despite their size chart) but my height says L and where I’m considering buying says the same (L).
Yes, this park is really great with good variety, but nothing truly difficult: mostly green XC trails, of both tight and open varieties, with a couple of blue berm/jump flow trails. Great place to have close by. I am a returning MTBer after 20+ years away from it, so it has been a good place to progress. I’m over 60, so I don’t expect to ever do huge drops or jumps. Anyway, I can somewhat relate to your situation. When I started MTB around Y2k I moved from a fully rigid to a FS (Cannondale SuperV). When I got back in recently, I started with a Santa Cruz Heckler then added a Fezzari Signal Peak, so continuing with the FS theme. I rode a friend’s Santa Cruz Chameleon and that got me interested in a hardtail, esp given the nature of our trails. I will say that every time I start on the DV9 I am reminded pretty quickly that I’m not on a FS. But by the end of the ride I’ve forgotten and the only thing I remember is the good time I just had. I recently went out on the Fezzari and had a really bad day (there is a video here). I think it was just a down day for me, not the bike itself, but 🤷🏻♂️. Regarding getting your back beat up, what I found is my LEGS get beat up. I stand a LOT more on the DV9. That’s not a bad thing, IMO, but I definitely felt it big time after the first couple of rides. My back has been OK, or at least no worse than usual. This ride with Chuck was a killer because I was working to keep up with him (because he’s super fit), but also constantly standing and sitting, whereas he could just pedal over most of the small stuff. Still, I love the DV9. It’s very immediate and involving to ride. I did swap the saddle out for an Ergon SMC Core, which has a bit of “suspension” built in (like a layer of running shoe cushion, and not too clunky-looking or heavy). That did make a difference in chatter when pedaling while seated, though it is no replacement for FS of course. I also swapped to Ibis carbon bars recently, but that was just for fun and they were on sale (and they have the cool screw-in extensions to change width in a heartbeat). I think I feel a difference there, too, but that has nothing to do with hardtail vs FS. I’m toying with trying some Spank Vibrocore wheels, though I’m alternately considering compliant carbon fiber wheels and a lighter cassette to lighten the bike even more. Trade-offs 😆. I haven’t bothered much with upgrades on my other bikes, so the fact I’m putting extra $$ into this bike that should indicate I see a future with it 👍. OK, finally: FWIW regarding size I would have guessed you’d take a M. I’m just under 6’ tall and the size L DV9 seems just right. I toyed for a moment with going XL since I’m on the borderline on Ibis’ chart, but there is a pretty huge size jump into XL. The best thing to do, IMO is make a geo table of bikes you’ve felt really good on and compare to the geo of the M vs L DV9. I did that, and the L is right in line with my Fezzari, and close enough to the Heckler, which are both L. I consider the fit to be perfect.
Hey Mike! Great reply and thank you for it as well as the info!! That’s awesome you got back on and I hope I’m still mashing pedals in my 60’s and beyond. I’m 55 so I’m getting close!! lol. Yeas so I had a bunch of years I was way into mtb, jumping off all kinds of stuff (thanks to seeing the Movie Kranked!) and got into some DH racing as well. I road ride and got hit my a car back in the mid / late 2000’s. Sold all my Freeride and DH bikes but one day after a visit to San Fran and seeing all the bikes.., I got back in and it’s been a train wreck since (I now have 11 bikes, the Ibis would make 12…, mind you, a few are older ones I never sold after buying a new “replacement “. ). I have a buddy I sometimes ride with that went back to HT but he’s much younger and not the knee, shoulder and back issues I have. I think that sounds like a plan on the checking measurements on current bikes. I have 2 FS I switch back n forth on.., an Evil Following (about 7 ya old) and a YT Izzo (about 4 yrs old). I did reach out to Ibis and gave all my details and they recommended the M for sure, given trails here in SE Pa (bout an hr north of Philly) being more technical and tight n twisty vs bomber trails like out west. However, the bike place I reached out to is saying L (N1 Bikes). Guy there says he is my age and same height and he is telling me M would be too cramped and L is def the way to go. Based on the size chart from Ibis I’m should be on a L, M cutoff is like 5’7” so I’m not sure what way to go. Haha. Where did you get ur Ibis from? Just curious, maybe they have a diff opinion. I will def do some comparison on the geo/size charts of my YT to the DV9 as well. Thanks again and keep mashing the pedals and posting videos!! Great to see some rides more like mine (and not 25’ gap jumps and 10’ drops 😂. That shit is def impressive but the only way I’m launching off something like that is by a big mistake in reading the trail and I’m pretty sure it won’t end well. Haha).
@@scottmcsloy9554 Well, I’m no fitting expert, but looking at the chart there are definitely some advantages to the M vs the L, IMO. Much lower stand over, shorter wheelbase (arguably good on your trails, from the sound of it), lower weight. I guess the important thing is the reach and how it compares to your other bikes. I was also on the borderline between sizes, but as mentioned, the XL is just gobs larger than the L and larger than either of my other bikes in all the relevant dimensions. I picked up my DV9 (“NGX” build) from Jenson, and the transaction was flawless except for a badly bent front rotor (packing/shipping damage). I picked up a replacement at an LBS and Jenson cheerfully and quickly reimbursed me for the expense. N+1 bikes is actually arguably local to me (1hr+ drive). I never really considered going there - a 1+ hour drive to look at a bike, which they may not even have had in stock, was just not a thing for me. I’m also pretty introverted/analytical and just prefer to do research, buy, and live with my decision (I also consulted with Steve from Hardtail Party on the selection). I’ll throw out a wild guess that you talked to Will at N+1, who I know has a DV9. He’s pretty active in the MTB community around here and is an Ibis ambassador. Back to sizing, I think anatomy comes into play in these borderline situations. If Will is your height, but has a long upper body, maybe the L fits best. I must admit that’s where a local shop is invaluable, provided they have multiple sizes of the bike you’re interested in that you can ride. I’ve probably owned 20+ bikes in my life (also mostly a roadie), but never a dozen at once 🤣. I have five ATM: the three MTBs and a couple of road bikes (older, beautiful lugged steel Colnago and Serotta, with the latter converted to single-speed). I’ve only ridden the Colnago once in probably 10 years, and the Serotta has gone longer without love. Hard to let go of them, though. Good luck in the search. Def just do a geo comparison and see where that lands you. Let me know how you go…
Nice riding over there!
W00t!
Nice video, Mike. I recently picked up a used Arca-Swiss F-line 6x9 field camera + a 6x9 Horseman roll film back. The first few rolls of 120 film demonstrated that the latter had some light leaks, which I had the camera shop (where I bought the rig j fix. I’ll be taking the kit on a road trip in about a week and am looking forward to getting into MF photography. If I find that I like the process of using a view camera (I currently shoot with Leica 35 mm film and digital cameras), I’ll try to find a 4x5 back for this camera (and a bellows that works with the 110 mm front and 141 mm rear standards). What is the minimum and maximum focal length lenses you can use with the bellows you have on the camera shown in this video?
Hey, congratulations! I always wanted to try shooting MF on my F-Field, but never got around to it. You’ll definitely want to shoot 4x5 in order to get the most out of the F-Field, IMO. IIRC the leather bag bellows covers pretty short (I shot 75mm on it easily, and it should go shorter) to just long-ish, like maybe 300mm (I shot a max of 250mm). Best way to know is some Google research. The leather bag bellows is the must-have bellows because it’s so versatile. I think there’s a non-pleated one in case you ever want to go ultra-short (?) If you decide to get into the LF thing, contact me if you’re interested in lenses. I only have my Horseman 45FA left, and have a number of lenses that are incompatible with it, including my much loved Schneider Super-Symmar 120mm.
@@mike.thomasThe shop that sold me the A-S F-line 6x9 field view camera (with the folding monorail which rocks) had on hand three pre-owned Nikon 4x5 lenses (Nikkor-SW 75 mm f/4.5, Nikkor-W 150 mm f/5.6, and a convertible Nikkor-T ED 360 mm f/8 (+ the 500 mm f/11 rear element). I just received lens boards for the latter two and will put the gear through its paces over the next several weeks. I’m currently thinking that I might want at least a “fast” 90 mm and sub-75 mm lens to cover focal lengths for the 6x9 back. When I get a 4x5 rear standard, I’ll definitely need a few additional lenses. The camera also came with the non-pleated bag bellows and a short Arca-Swiss dovetail that accepts the monorail (I don’t use it, as I have an Arca-Swiss Core 75 tripod head). I might get an Arca-Swiss C1 cube soon for this camera and leave the Core 75 for my small cameras. I could even see getting a used Phase One digital camera to use with this camera (the new ones are far too expensive for me). The IQ3 100 monochrome looks interesting. My camera’s tilt actions are from the base, not on axis. Has that been much of a limitation for you?
@@johnkasianowicz6536 Well, sounds like you’re off to a pretty good start! Base vs on-axis tilt was never a problem. Just pay attention to what is on the ground glass. I’m not sure what loupe you are using, but I learned that a good one (I ended up with a Schneider) is a really good investment.
@@mike.thomas Thanks for the tip. I’ll know more after an upcoming road trip if photography with a view camera is for me (I’m quite sure it will be) and whether going larger than 6x9 is in the cards too.
My A-S 6x9 F-line filed view camera is on a 30:cm folding monorail and has the Normal 6x9 bellows. Not surprisingly, the Nikon 360 mm f/8 lens barely comes to focus at infinity. To properly this lens, I’ll need to purchase a longer 6x9 bellows, an extension bracket, and an extension monorail.
Fun time riding VP. Nice job on the editing.
Nice ride!