Пікірлер

• 
  @tintan92698 күн бұрын

  Is that procedure applicable for smaller kanna plane too? I mean block plane (30mm/40mm) or for bigger kanna plane only? (50mm/60mm/70)

• 
  @user-lg9xl7ow2e5 күн бұрын

  Thanks for the comment. The approach is the same for a small planer. We prefer to adjust the bottom of the body for a more accurate finish.

• 
  @user-io9ln1or7cАй бұрын

  Thank You Sir.🎉

• 
  @timefeatherstormАй бұрын

  The guide block is a very useful tip. That hammer is surprisingly small. I would have expected a larger wooden mallet

• 
  @unclej3542Ай бұрын

  I didn't understand the whole hammer thing either.. Maybe I'm missing something

• 
  @rolandshultz4888Ай бұрын

  Good demo!

• 
  @davidclark9086Ай бұрын

  A very well-made and informative video.

• 
  @CanadianPenguin_Ай бұрын

  Original western chisles going back a bit over 100+ years ago were constructed the same way iron for the body then a hardened tool steel cutting edge.

• 
  @escapefelicity29132 ай бұрын

  well done!

• 
  @escapefelicity29132 ай бұрын

  well done

• 
  @escapefelicity29132 ай бұрын

  well done

• 
  @escapefelicity29132 ай бұрын

  well done

• 
  @user-eu3jx7st4p2 ай бұрын

  Love the videos. Wish they were longer with more details. I own many Kakuri tools.

• 
  @amezcuaist3 ай бұрын

  What about the chisels laid flat on the surface? The Japanese back touches the surface all along to the back.The handle stays out of the way. Western chisel backs only touch the surface at the edge .

• 
  @user-sr9lp9hl4k4 ай бұрын

  I recently bought 5 Japanese style planes from eBay. Upon receipt I found two of the blades had been drilled through. First; Have you seen this or know why this would be done?

• 
  @user-lg9xl7ow2e3 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the comment! I don't know which part has the hole, but maybe that is a planer with a good quality iron. Bridges manufactured in the past were made of good quality iron that is not available today. When the iron from the dismantled bridges was used to make the planer blades, some planers seem to have holes left after the bolts.

• 
  @user-og2ig7yq5r4 ай бұрын

  ありがとうございました！

• 
  @JedediahSmith3425 ай бұрын

  I prefer the Japanese chisels thank you for showing and teaching. 🙏🏽

• 
  @JedediahSmith3425 ай бұрын

  Thanks for showing and teaching 🙏🏽

• 
  @JedediahSmith3425 ай бұрын

  Thank you for showing and teaching. 🙏🏽

• 
  @drivethru18356 ай бұрын

  Thank you

• 
  @mark2talk2u6 ай бұрын

  Very nice. I think the video means “co-planer” instead of “parallel”.

• 
  @user-lg9xl7ow2e6 ай бұрын

  It is true that "co-planer" is a more appropriate expression. Thanks for pointing that out☺

• 
  @swissthun607 ай бұрын

  Well done & Thanks !

• 
  @escapefelicity29137 ай бұрын

  well done

• 
  @freehrm7 ай бұрын

  Thank you.

• 
  @Desert-Tan-Whiskey8 ай бұрын

  👍👍👍

• 
  @james978911 ай бұрын

  Quite a complex procedure atleast to me ,very well clearly explained and demonstrated thank you.I bought an inexpensive Japanese hand plane ,Ive probably improved it about 40 or so percent not knowing I had to do this to the sole. It's s still a great useful tool as is though.

• 
  @Desert-Tan-Whiskey Жыл бұрын

  👍👍👍

• 
  @NewRomancer37 Жыл бұрын

  I got one of your small 42 mm planes today and the kanna / blade can protrude out of the mouth. Literally brand new. I thought that I should be able to use the plane if I wanted without the chip breaker. This is second one I have received like this. Poor quality if you ask me.

• 
  @brentfarwick21827 ай бұрын

  At the risk of telling you something you already know, these planes ship with the blade upside down. While I'm quite certain there is a good reason for this, it can be confusing. You may find that once you make this change, the blade stops a good 1/4 to 3/8" (6mm-9mm) away from the mouth. If so, all is as intended, and now you have some setup work to do. Japanese planes almost never come ready to use as shipped, although, I will say, Kakuri ships some fairly sharp blades with their product. Again, if you already knew this, my apologies for wasting your time.

• 
  @brentfarwick21827 ай бұрын

  I should be more specific. The blade goes bevel down. It ships bevel up. In bevel up configuration, both my Kakuri planes appear to have a blade that extends to far past the mouth. When I turn them bevel down -- which is the correct position -- I find that they do not even reach the mouth, let alone protrude. Hope that completes what I was trying to communicate.

• 
  @TischlerimkopfАй бұрын

  I have the same issue, blade Slips right trough, without adjusting... but yea paper it is then, bevore i build a New body out of robinia in the future

• 
  @FordHallamАй бұрын

  It's possible that if you live in a drier climate than Japan the wood block has shrunk a little bit leading to some looseness. And no, most modern Japanese planes are not designed to be used without the chip breaker.

• 
  @roberthmar9726 Жыл бұрын

  Thanks for information

• 
  @memememe2674 Жыл бұрын

  So these plane blades are concave? Not like the blades in UK flat chunk of cheap metal

• 
  @user-bb7wr3wv8g Жыл бұрын

  Очень полезная информация. Спасибо Вам и удачи. С уважением.

• 
  @doedeldidoedelda Жыл бұрын

  Superb explanation! This is by far the best video for tuning the sole.

• 
  @johnhelton457 Жыл бұрын

  Woodglut is nice for that.

• 
  @figueredoruley8050 Жыл бұрын

  This time I will do it manually with the help of Woodglut designs.

• 
  @matthewbrady5214 Жыл бұрын

  Very helpful. Thank you

• 
  @nonarrativeboxingnunn9856 Жыл бұрын

  My blade is stuck. It way past the bottom. Now I can't remove the blade. Suggestions?

• 
  @Karpe_Deem Жыл бұрын

  lol they tell you not to tap harder than what it's shown, but the blade is really jammed in. I think it's okay to whack it for the first time

• 
  @nonarrativeboxingnunn9856 Жыл бұрын

  @@Karpe_Deem I Used Some Adjustable Pliers😏💪😁

• 
  @davidclark9086 Жыл бұрын

  This is a very informative and extremely well made video. It was exactly what I needed to see how to remove small chips on my plane blade.

• 
  @Whiteoaking Жыл бұрын

  Excellent! Thanks for sharing

• 
  @apostoloskokalis3431 Жыл бұрын

  Sharpening a blade in Japanese woodworking culture seems like a ceremony. I m trying to learn but I m. A bit confused

• 
  @user-lg9xl7ow2e Жыл бұрын

  Thanks for your comment! If you need any help, please feel free to ask questions through our website! ↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓↓ kakuritools.com/pages/contact

• 
  @matthewbrady5214 Жыл бұрын

  Super helpful video. Thank you

• 
  @user-gg2vs3vc5t Жыл бұрын

  ありがとう、助かりました

• 
  @user-kj7mt6jb6v2 жыл бұрын

  ありがたいですー！

• 
  @pz20154 жыл бұрын

  Myばち

• 
  @zzyzx505 жыл бұрын

  それぞれ１列２本のビス打ちのマーキングしか出来ないのでは片手落ちですね SPF材は軟らかく、ビス２本だと抜けることはそうそう無くても捻りやズレに対する強度があまり出ないので、 必要に応じてビスを多く打ったり、木ダボを利用するなどして強度を出すため、動画のものでは 要求強度に応じて求められる多種多様な位置マーキングの中のほんの一部のケースでしか利用できません

• 
  @rk55496 жыл бұрын

  刃の出し方がよくわからないです...

• 
  @user-lg9xl7ow2e6 жыл бұрын

  当社の製品をお手に取っていただき、ありがとうございます。 豆カンナシリーズの刃の調整方法ですが、 ①まず刃を抜いた状態でカンナ台を木材に押し当てる ②刃をカンナ台へ入れて木材に当て、軽く押さえる ③そのままネジをしめて固定する 使用されているカンナの形状にもよりますが、上記のような方法で カンナ刃の調整をしていただくと上手くいくことがございます。 ②の刃の押し付け具合で微調整も可能です。 よろしくお願い致します。

• 
  @rk55496 жыл бұрын

  角利産業株式会社 出来ました！ ありがとうございます。

• 
  @user-ty8nj4pu8u6 жыл бұрын

  これ買いました！

• 
  @user-lg9xl7ow2e6 жыл бұрын

  お買い上げいただき、ありがとうございます！

• 
  @sheung416 жыл бұрын

  等了好久了，在香港怎樣買到？

• 
  @user-zy4wy3kf1f9 жыл бұрын

  スーパー技工に、かなり助けられた。 大型のプラスチック容器を切ることと、引きだしを切ることに。 が、実は切りやすさは、切る対象が、どれだけしっかり固定されているかによって、かなり変わる。 たくさん切っていたら、むかし技術家庭の教室にあった万力、バイスが、なつかしく、ほしくなった。我が家には固定する台も無いので、万力だけあっても、固定できない。 力を相殺してくれる人は、ときどきある。