Pursuing that next big build, reaching for that next level of performance, subscribe and follow us as we build cars as they were meant to be! We want to show the "ins and outs" of building proper race cars and then test them the only way we know how, on the Tarmac!
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No way 😂😂😂😂! I wanted to see that stands and wheel spacing....
Is there a link to the install videos?
Was wondering the same. I just received mine but it did not come with instructions for the passenger side
Here for this also ^
How much to do that to my model 3 I’m interested
Do you also do the pathfinder mod
The pathfinder mod has a different outlet so I don't think you'd be able to use their fancy fitting with the pathfinder tube (I'm putting my pathfinder mod on now).
Hey man I’m a huge fan and live in los lunas, and pass your shop everytime I’m up in town, was wondering what you guys work on, on a day to day basis??
95% talk 5% action
I was a shop foreman of a custom auto shop in south Florida for years. I always used a silver sharpie marker to mark the top hat and the strut assembly so I knew I was clocking it correctly during re-assembly.
Dylan def deserved the win in hungry hungry hippos. That dude was giving it itz all
At least you didn't cut the rear bumper.....
Is it illegal to drift a 350z without a front bumper cover?
We just love to see drifters cry.
LøL
*with
@@Officer_Dan *350Zedda
Did you have any issue, rattles from the springs top not being flush ? Hows the ride comfort ?
i want to lower my Tesla but parts (spring and wheel spacers) and labor (alignment, spring installation) all combine will come out roughly 1000usd.
Appreciated the vid! In-depth and really helped me understand this brake design! Cheers from Tampa Bay
I wish I had a big spring compressor! And a lift! I've never been happy with just replacing the springs for any of my cars and added the MPP coilovers for my Tesla. Major how to video - kzread.info/dash/bejne/gXZhxNlre5qqnbQ.html
Just curious, as this is something I consider for my new M3P , with the Eibach Spring pro-kit with 5mm spacers, since we cannot adjust the rear camber, did you notice additional wear on the tires? should I buy a Rear Camber and Toe Arms? or not necessary. Cheers.
I would say adjustable rear camber and toe arms are completely necessary. The M3 rear suspension geometry does a pretty good job of maintain alignment specs when lowered. If you want to extend your tire life as much as possible then absolutely invest in some camber arms. We actually installed the stock springs back on this car as the customer was looking to sell it, the tires looked great even after a year of daily driving. Hope that helps.
Has any anal youtube commenter had a fit about you clicking your torque wrench over center multiple times????? ( HERE I AM!) :-D
That MRS is sweet.
Thank you
were the blox spacers 15 front 20 rear, or 20 front 25 rear?
Gawd damn aussies
I can't wait for the "special motor swap " on the BRZ only cause I know what it is 👊🏻😎. Not telling though
So your finally adding boost to the brz or LS swap?
We will give you a hint, the new motor has titanium connecting rods.
can't wait to see what you get up to !! best of luck with everything that's going on :))
Love the channel keep it up👍🏾
Great video. I was wondering what were the torque specs for tightening down the front A arm to the macpherson strut assembly and what were the torque specs for the nut that connects the top hat to the top of the shock shaft?
Question on this, did you end up cutting the bump stops at all?
While this was a quality video. He took off or loosen way too many parts for this exchange of springs. The front in reality is just 5 bolts to remove.
I learned a hard lesson, on an AWD you have to take the entire front shock assembly out because of the drive axle. On RWD you do not and can just take the 3 smaller struts bolts up top and lower shock bolt out then just push the lower arm down to remove. No way no how on an AWD, you have to remove the whole assembly.
Did you trim your bumpstops (my eibach springs suggest 20mm trim front, 25mm trim rear)?
No we didn't, we have done two of them so far and haven't felt the need to trim the bump stops.
5:48, Peterbilt trucks are built American made and use both. But yeah, easy to go up and down measurements on the fly with metric. “Crap, 10 is too small, better get the 11,” is easier than “crap 7/16 is too small. Maybe it’s gonna need a 5/8 or is it a 3/4?”
DUDE. I just attempted this install and got one front spring in ...saw the hat was crooked, assumed I'd messed it up, uninstalled and reinstalled 4 times before putting the stock spring in and quitting. How did everything go once you reinstalled? Any issues arise?
Oops. Just saw your little recap at the end of the video. Guess I'll reattempt next weekend.
Yeah, those springs aren't exactly perfect however once we had them bolted back up to the upper control arm they aligned themselves much better. They could have been designed better but we've also seen worse. Just do your best to get them close, once they are under weight they align well. It's worth all the work, don't give up!
@@10tenthsmotorsports11 my first thought was that they looked like stock springs with the top coil cut. They're well reviewed. I'll give it another shot. Great vid! Thanks!
Is 10 Tenths Motorsports offering this service at your shop? I live in Albuquerque and just got a Model 3.
Absolutely, we would love to earn your business!
great video! My suggestion tho is for you to reach out with the owner of the car you lowered and take some pictures. Also would you also please elaborate if you can on how the front alignment was adjusted with the 4 bolts (2-13mm & 2-15mm) Much appreciated.
We will see if our customer will send us some more pictures! The factory model 3 components don't really allow for much adjustment other then toe, at least from what I can remember anyway. The Camber can be slightly adjusted by loosening the "upper control arm housing" bolts and allowing them to move towards the center of the vehicle. This takes advantage of the tolerance in the chassis mounting holes which can sometimes give you .5 a degree of camber adjustment. The adjustment is likely not noticable at all, however we would prefer to have more negative camber then any positive camber. Alignment shops wouldn't consider this an adjustment, it's more of a Motorsports type of adjustment. Sorry if that made it more confusing or just created more questions, let me know if that helped!
Brooo 🤣🤣 lowered the car and through all the excitement forgot to record what it looked like finished. I SUBSCRIBED... Bro😄
Real professional right!? We fired our director, got Michael Bay for 2020.
😂😂😂😂 for sure...
did you trim the bump stops?
We didn't, there were no instructions to do so and at the time we didn't think it was necessary. It's been awhile but I believe the bump stops on the model 3 were very short from the factory.
@@10tenthsmotorsports11 Eibach instructions say to cut them and tsporlines are supposed to be rebranded eibach's. Interesting, I am doing the install right now and I am not sure to cut the. Like you said no one else instructions says to cut them. Thanks
@@juanmedinar20 Our customer has had the car on the road for a few months now and hasn't voice any concern yet, our roads are pretty bad so I would imagine he would know right away. Let us know what you think once you're done with the install!
Thanks for posting this. I watched this and decided to install the same springs myself (Tsportline for AWD/Perf). However, I am now getting a lot of clunking sounds from the front. It looks fine and feels/drives fine - sounds like a clunker. Any ideas on what it could be?
We're glad this motivated you to do it yourself! If the sound is indeed coming from the front then it can only be a few things. I would check the sway bar end link and make sure the nuts are nice and tight. My next guess would be the lower strut bolt, if that checks out I would make sure the upper strut and control arm bolts are tight. If everything seems good then the top hat might not be tightened all the way against the shock shaft, you can sometimes take the wheel off and use a jack to slowly compress the shock until you hear the noise in question. Make sure the car is properly supported by a jack stand before using the jack to compress the shock. Also make sure you don't lift the body off the jack stand while compressing the shock. Focus more on "full drop" to normal ride height rather than compressing the shock. Good luck!
Hey man, great video! Where did you buy the springs and spacers? The Model 3 aftermarket is small...but starting to grow pretty quickly!
Thanks, we added the springs and spacers that were used on this car in the video description, unfortunately we don't remember the wheel spacer widths. We only remember the rears where wider then the fronts. I think they were 15mm in the front and 20mm in the rear.
You can get the Blox Sport ones on ebay. Don't pay their full ask. Make them an offer of $150 and they'll take it. You can go 20mm in front and 25mm in rear for ultra flush look with those aero wheels. www.ebay.com/itm/4-2x20mm-2x25mm-Wheel-Spacer-5x114-3-Hub-Centric-For-Tesla-Model-3-2017-2019/333152572558?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Thanks for info kind sir!
Message the customer service on the main blox sport website and get the forged 7075-T6 spacers. Not the 6061-T6 listed in the ebay link. 7075-T6 is much stronger and safer (not that the other one will fail, but it's better not compromise when it comes to spacers). Negotiate like the other poster said though.
Did the car efficiency change in any way with spacers, springs? Do you have to get lug studs instead of OEM bolts?
Great video. Where do you find the torque ratings for all the bolts in the Model 3?
Thanks! We added the torque specs we used in the video description.
10 Tenths Motorsports perfect, that’s what I needed. Thank you good sir! Good humor in the video :)
I know the 370z came with a carbon fiber driveshaft. Apparently the 350z did too. You can definitely tell that was a muffler shop special exhaust given that those bends clearly weren't mandrel bent. Also, the OE LSD's were viscous.
I'm still pissed at that muffler shop.