Пікірлер

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  @scottbeartd44721 сағат бұрын

  i have a simms 3 cyl pump i rebuilt engine and cant get the pump to pump up i replaced the supply pump but didnt help im getting fule to the injector pump but it wont pump up any advice?

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  @marceltrainer62242 күн бұрын

  Appreciate it. My extractor bolt broke off on me today trying to get a broken bleeder bolt out. I was going nice and easy with the tap, but still managed to break off. I'm glad I cooled off for a few hours and found your video. Now I have hope without having to weld something crazy or replace totally...

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  @mark_osborne2 күн бұрын

  Best of luck - hope you get it out :-)

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  3 күн бұрын

  I had been looking for a detailed source on this subject for a long time, and unfortunately, I couldn’t understand the technical drawings of the diagrams I found on the internet until I came across your video. I am very pleased that you explained it with such clarity that even someone with no knowledge of electricity can understand it. I have an issue with the electrical system of my 1985 Trans Am, and for some reason, the headlight switch button heats up and the brass metals inside melt and stick together. As a result, the headlights no longer go up; only the light pulps inside are on. Now I understand that a short circuit in the electrical system may have damaged both the relay and the fuses. What steps would you recommend I take to diagnose this?

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  @mark_osborne3 күн бұрын

  The wires come out of the firewall right under the brake booster, follow them closely all the way to the headlights themselves making sure they are not rubbed through and shorted either to ground or one another. If they look good, unplug the headlights and see if the switch still gets warm. If it does, the only thing left is a problem under the dash

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  @timothypaul98420 күн бұрын

  My guy, well done! About to tackle my wife's '07, and you're exactly right-this is totally the way, and did our other '04 this way. Thank you!

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  @mark_osborne20 күн бұрын

  Good deal, hope it goes well ! Have a beer for me :-)

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  @jefferyglenn534423 күн бұрын

  is the 1998 the same?

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  @mark_osborne22 күн бұрын

  I'm sorry, I don't know. If there's a "hump" in the sheet metal under the seat, there's a good chance the pump is located under the hump.

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  @angelatbluehairedsudios810625 күн бұрын

  How do you replace the floor?

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  @mark_osborne25 күн бұрын

  I take a piece of sheet metal or aluminum (depending on what I have laying around), cut it a little larger than the hole I cut in the floor, then pop-rivet it to the existing floor. Also, I put some silicone sealer around the hole before installing the sheet metal cover so no water can splash up and leak in

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  @angelatbluehairedsudios810625 күн бұрын

  @@mark_osborne thanks I'm am about to embark in this adventure and I live in my 2003 Chevy Ventura so closing the hole is kinda important lol

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  @mark_osborne25 күн бұрын

  @@angelatbluehairedsudios8106 Please please be careful not to cut too deep or you can cut the fuel lines and/or wires. You want to just barely cut through the metal

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  @phillipbremer771526 күн бұрын

  share away

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  @Patrick-kl4kc29 күн бұрын

  Excellent video from an obvious pro

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  @twocrazyhensАй бұрын

  Having problems with a Melling original timing chain install on a 4.7 Dodge Ram. The markings aren't as noticeable. Where can I find info on an original time chain install?

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  @pxnxofficial8692Ай бұрын

  Remove the intake. The PCV passage is not ported large enough on the mating surface of manifold. Like a pinhole when it should be at least 1/8 inch in diameter. These get froze/plugged over time due to this. Drill it to 1/8. THIS is the most common reason for the rear main seals to blow out. Done many. Hope this helps.

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  @pinevale6356Ай бұрын

  I put a slim screwdriver under the cap, snapped the bits of plastic under the triangle shaped clip things on the box thet keep it in place. You can then remove the old cap without damaging the box. You can then replace the valve, backing and spring and then pop the new cap down to replace the broken cap. You technically could do it without removing the box at all.

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  Awesome !

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  @danescholl7184Ай бұрын

  Thanks, just what I was looking to learn.

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  @kainestefaniak2751Ай бұрын

  What about warpage? Is there a tolerance I can use, I tried to unwarp using heat and trying to finesse the body by assembling it no gaskets and such. Worked abit but my secondary flap in the airhorn is getting hung up now in the process of "bending" things but I still have a high spot in the middle section ( housing I suppose) should I try individually bolting stuff to a bench with heat and apply force on the centres?

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  Usually you must file the opening where they secondary air doors are catching. I place the entire top section upside-down in a vice and take a large file and make passes until I'm just tickling it in the middle. They worst part will be where the 2 front bolts go through.

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  @kainestefaniak2751Ай бұрын

  @@mark_osborne the flaps are only hanging up due to what I did they were smooth as silk otherwise it's the rod itself is binding and moving in its groove but I think flattening it will help. I will try bokting down to a very solid piece of timber w heat and try again and if not I'll try that method

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  @@kainestefaniak2751 Yeah you may have this thing torqued out of shape. They typically only warp in the front 1/3rd due to the 2 large front bolts- which is usually correctable with a large file. Sorry you're having so much grief

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  @kainestefaniak2751Ай бұрын

  @@mark_osborne as expected with older items, no problem I will slowly get it, I really appreciate the feedback and will be watching again when i get it sorted. Carby is supaa clean just waiting on some parts. Wanted to help the old man getting his hq Ute running. Seen a few different methods but seen you were fairly active in the comment section so multiple opinions is always thought of and appreciated

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  @ricardophelps6323Ай бұрын

  Interesting to see a long term test on a large setup with no BMS. Thread is 4 years old is it possible to update to 2024?

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  I ran them without a BMS all the way to the fall of 2023 when I switched over to LifePO4 cells from Docan Power. The Volt and Leaf cells remained in near perfect balance the entire 7 years they were in service and amazingly tested to 90-92% capacity when I tested each individual 48 V pack. The Leaf cells went to a friend in Texas, I got almost what I paid for them. I still have the Volt cells. I need to get them up for sale. Thanks for watching

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  @2104dougАй бұрын

  How much do you pay for shipping the battery and did they come from overseas. How many did you buy at a time.

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  I bought 64 cells, they came from a warehouse in Texas but were made in China, so at some point they took the slow boat to the US. The cells cost more when you buy them from the Texas warehouse because the cost to get them to the US is baked into the price. I don't remember the exact cost of shipping from Texas to Michigan, I think $500 ? It wasn't horrible. It was a fraction of what it would have cost me in gas and motel rooms to drive to Texas and back. They came on 1 pallet. I drove to Romulus, Michigan and picked them up at the shipper using my pickup truck. I bought them from Docan Power. Contact Amy. Great outfit. Super happy with the cells. They've been in play for over a year now.

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  @2104dougАй бұрын

  @@mark_osborne You definitely got a better shipping price than me to shipped 64 batteries. All I want was Docan to ship to me 16 batteries from there US warehouse to me and would cost me little over $800. I said no thank you. This price was giving in late may 2024. They did offer another batter at $90 a piece from US warehouse and free shipping I said no to that too. I am thinking of ordering the 280Ah Docan Power batteries at $39.90 from overseas, but I am afraid shipping cost wouldn't be much better either. Also there name on the battery Docan Power is not the company full name it is Docan Technology. Anyway, thank you for all the info.

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  @@2104doug It may have been more than $500, my memory has faded

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  @backroom12Ай бұрын

  My quad . When revving in neutral , the secondaries open slightly . Are the doors too tight ?I have a pretty good bog when I stab it from a stand still but runs fine otherwise

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  Completely normal for the secondaires to barely open while revving in neutral. A bog usually indicates the secondary air door is opening too soon or too easy. The choke-brake (diaphragm) located at the passenger side front of the carb should have a rod that leads back to the secondary air door. The choke-brake should hold that door closed ( tight) while idling (high intake vacuum) and bleed-off slowly when you smash the throttle. Some carbs even have a secondary choke-brake located at the passenger rear of the carb with rods leading to the secondary air door. They effectively do the same thing as pertaining to the air door, that is, slow it's ability to open causing fuel to flow out of the secondary nozzles -thus covering up the "bog" you are feeling. Have a good look at all of this and make sure it's all operating as designed. It's possible someone put an aftermarket choke-brake on that's bleeding off too quick. It should take a good 2-3 seconds for that choke-brake (diaphragm) to bleed off if you simply remove the vacuum hose at an idle. If it flys open, that's likely the problem. The opening rate is controlled by the tiny hole where the vacuum hose connects.

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  @aquaopp2023Ай бұрын

  What gen 4.7L. 16 spark plug HO?

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  @mark_osborneАй бұрын

  Just the 8 plug version :-)

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  @user-tf5kg6eo5pАй бұрын

  كيف اقدر اعمل البطاريات نضام 48 فولت لو سمحت

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  @stevesulak94872 ай бұрын

  The roar when those secondaries open can't be beat. It's a great carb and very mechanic-friendly. Great video.

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  @454BurbanАй бұрын

  Agreed. Gotta love the roar of wide-open secondaries!

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  @ITJediCA2 ай бұрын

  Well done sir! I was about at my wits end and about to try this myself. Thought I'd check if anyone else had. Great news!! Thank you for posting.

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  @SDPP9922 ай бұрын

  I have a 2010 Escalade esv that dropped a valve seat and bent pushrod, blew piston and wrist pin into the cylinder through watch jacket.. ended up just putting a 5.3 in. Heard nothing but garbage about the 6.2s

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  @mark_osborne2 ай бұрын

  I must say, I've never heard of one dropping a seat! sorry for your bad luck

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  @SDPP9922 ай бұрын

  @@mark_osborne guess I’ll be the first person with a 5.3 in a GMT900 Escalade, honestly runs like a 6.2 since it was tuned

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  @jimmybob5622 ай бұрын

  Hey Mark, I have a 2005 Explorer Sport Trac 4WD. Same exact symptoms you described, except my code was incorrect 3rd gear ratio. Fluid looks good. Every shop I call doesn’t wanna touch it or wants to rebuild. I’m thinking a valve body? I’m stumped. Been driving with this issue for about 17,000 clicks now, hasn’t gotten worse at all. It’s extremely annoying.

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  @mark_osborne2 ай бұрын

  Wish i could give you some guidance

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  @grahamrobson9982 ай бұрын

  Great Job Thank you.

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  @timmthirty79282 ай бұрын

  My marine quadrajet won't idle at all. Took it apart and rebuilt it cleaned everything reassembled but zero idle. Will run with anything above idle or if choke is fully closed. Btw this is why I rebuilt it in the first place. Ideas? I tried the two air mixture screws and made no difference

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  @timmthirty79282 ай бұрын

  Any thoughts on the no idle situation?

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  @mark_osborne2 ай бұрын

  Sounds like a blockage in the idle fuel feed circuit. It's not likely in the throttle plate as you can literally see the circuit, rather, almost certainly in the body of carb. I'd take it back apart and using a rubber blow-gun nozzle, blow air down through the holes that are next to the primary venturi (s)- both sides. This is the idle fuel well. Take a small wire and see if you can dig around as well. Also, make sure the top section of the carb is not warped. If it's warped, fuel won't flow properly through the idle circuit as it takes a trip up- then back down through the top plate right next to where the 2 small bolts secure the top plate at the venturi (both sides)

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  @timmthirty79282 ай бұрын

  Thanks I will try that. I forced carb cleaner through all passages and it seems to flow thru but did not use high pressure. Carb did have water in it and sat a couple years, was a dunked up mess when i took it apart. Good news is everything past idle works great now, don't believe the secondaries worked at all before, always bogged down and had to pump the throttle to get it on plane. Greatly appreciate your insight, great viedo!

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  @mark_osborne2 ай бұрын

  @@timmthirty7928 water is the worst, almost certain there is corrosion in the idle wells. You could try some CLR, squirt some down the the holes into the idle wells and let it sit, blow it out, repeat, you might clear the blockage

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  @jariheiskanen4652 ай бұрын

  👍👍

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  @bobbyfoster80462 ай бұрын

  Tile bit goes right through them

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  @mark_osborne2 ай бұрын

  Good to know !

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  @kurtbottcher98112 ай бұрын

  DON'T DRILL A HOLE. ALL YOUR DOING IS CREATING A VACUUM LEAK AND A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT!...OYE!

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  @williamcrowe15912 ай бұрын

  You make that look to easy.

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  @RiverRatRacing-everythingRC.2 ай бұрын

  I've been chasing a "bog" at full throttle in a 305 with a 700r4 I put in a s10 I went as far as buying a new qudrajet just to have the same issue my air/fuel guage says my motor is going way too rich at full throttle I'll definitely try this ... I'm stumped at this point

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  @jimbo93573 ай бұрын

  Check Rodney Dickman for isolation relay and other info on pop ups.

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  @pulsing19823 ай бұрын

  sweet, man!

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  @stanleybest88333 ай бұрын

  The plastic gears are very disappointing.

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  @DustinKeating-yk3vq3 ай бұрын

  Since the motor was out the truck why didnt the afm get deleted for future lifter problems

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  @mark_osborne3 ай бұрын

  The customer decided against it. He has a device he plugs into the ALDL connector that prevents it from operating but you are 100% correct when you say he should have had me completely eliminate it.

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  @shenaniganswhatsoever3633 ай бұрын

  There's the noise. I'm gonna sleep easy knowing that my engine doesn't have rod knock.

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  @mark_osborne3 ай бұрын

  Yup !

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  @shenaniganswhatsoever3633 ай бұрын

  @@mark_osborne I wonder if gm was considering recalling these engines? I understand that a high hp/rpm engine requires more clearance, but at slightly over 100k this should not be an issue.

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  @defilade10663 ай бұрын

  Yeah, Great engine! Gotta replace cam and rod bearings '08 and up LS engines... Junk!

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  @TommyRandolph-kj7ji3 ай бұрын

  I just got a beautiful set of replacements for only $15 at a garage sale. Not sure I’m going to swap them until until completely necessary after seeing this loo

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  @mark_osborne3 ай бұрын

  Haha - I get it !

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  @user-hq6re6fl5w3 ай бұрын

  Good job I have the same problem. Very helpful video thanks🙌🏾💯

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  @markpelley3 ай бұрын

  I have my quad working pretty good but I can’t tell if the secondaries are working. The top air vents won’t move when high reeving. I have the tension set to very light. The secondary shaft will rotate with the engine off and throttle open very far but will not rotate at all when high reeving. I also removed the secondary lock out, still no movement.

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  @mark_osborne3 ай бұрын

  The choke pull-off will keep that top air door slammed shut until the vacuum has a chance to bleed off. Free revving it in "park" doesn't always give it enough time to bleed off the vacuum. Try un-plugging the vacuum line to the primary (right front of the carb) choke pull-off and do the test again. Also, you can visually see the secondary shaft move (open) by looking at the passenger side of the carb. There is a green cross-pin going through the shaft. The lockout thinggy prevents the shaft from opening when it's cold by engaging that cross-pin. It should become very obvious what's going on once you study it a bit.

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  @markpelley3 ай бұрын

  @@mark_osborne Thanks for replying, Mark! Little more background. I have a 1979 Carter Quadrajet and the Vacuum break is at the back of the carburetor. I actually removed it and plugged the vacuum line that is connected to the back of the carb. With the secondary lock mechanism removed, the vacuum break removed, air door tension adjusted to very light, I still don't see the air doors or secondary shaft move at a full throttle rev with the engine running. Funny thing, with the engine not running, I can see the secondary shaft rotate open when i pull back on the throttle. Confusing!

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  @mark_osborne3 ай бұрын

  @@markpelley That is a first for me !

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  @stephenandloriyoung57164 ай бұрын

  Until 2008, Saturn Vue used a vented oil fill cap on the 2.4. Dorman makes one. I've seen these recommended on YT, and it seems it would provided relief of crankcase pressure. So I put one on the 13 Terrain I just replaced the rear seal on, and told my friends who have these 2.4s. It looks like a simple, cheap, effective means of preventing rear seal blowout was known by GM and discontinued. Why would they do that?

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  @deliapayne46764 ай бұрын

  I just wanted you to know I have been trying to fix my Jeep liberty for three years no finally convinced my mechanic to try putting washers on the passenger side it fixed my Jeep !! You are awesome and wanted to tell you thank you very much !!

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  @mark_osborne4 ай бұрын

  Love it ~!~

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  @canadiangrower53164 ай бұрын

  Useless video that’s the noise ? You didn’t show us anything 😅

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  @kaylabrillj59234 ай бұрын

  Canni get your number i need your help

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  @20tea4 ай бұрын

  What brand and part numbers for the cam bearings used? You used tighter tolerances in some and standard for a couple? I'm about to try the same methods on my 07 yukon denali 6.2 l92. It's stock not dod/afm. Big thanks!

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  @mark_osborne4 ай бұрын

  Go to EngineTech website and search your engine, the cam bearings will show up. You can buy them on RockAuto. Yes I used tighter bearings in only 4 spots as I recall. You have to do it by "feel", meaning, if the cam fits the original bearing with reasonable clearance, and the bearing looks good- leave it alone.

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  @cincomorales4 ай бұрын

  Great video

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  @mark_osborne4 ай бұрын

  Thank you for the comment !

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  @davidhemphill37354 ай бұрын

  You can change that with out removal of the box. A little torch and a 90* pick. 8 seconds flame direct on the bottom of were the clip goes. Poke in the pick and break the bottom out. Remove four of the tap hole bottoms and lift cap off. Little bit of slippery stuf on the new one and snap in into place. 15 minutes if you Don't know what your doing.

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  @ScoopDogy4 ай бұрын

  Curious....I saw this nearly four years ago when I was installing my solar system. I, too, am using Leaf batteries...mine are from a 2011. They've worked great and, like yourself, I haven't had any issues not using a BMS while not charging to full charge. So.....are you still using this system and how's it working?....or have you swapped to something else?

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  @mark_osborne4 ай бұрын

  Hey Scoop, the Leaf batteries performed amazing. I took them out of service after roughly 7 years. I did a capacity test on them and they still had over 90% of their original rating of 2.2 KWHs. Shocking. Sold them to a friend for almost what I paid back in 2016. He added them to his system. Also, the cells stayed perfectly "in balance" all that time, never needing a BMS "balancer". Talk about quality. Since then I replaced both the Leaf and Volt batteries with LifePO4 technology, 54 KWHs worth. I'm running a BMS on all (4) 16 KWH packs. These new LifePO4's work good so far ( 6 months in). I noticed they do NOT stay in-balance (at the top and bottom) as well as the Leaf and Volt cells but the active BMS handles it just fine. Did I make the right decision ? I'm still not sure. From everything I can learn the LifePO4 cells are nearly impossible to catch fire, and that was my motivation to switch over to LifePO4. If I lived in Arizona (as opposed to effing Michigan), I would have kept the Leaf and Volt cells and had them in a shed 30 feet from any buildings and ran with it. But I can't do it here in cold Michigan as they won't tolerate the freezing temps.

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  @hunterriley99044 ай бұрын

  Thank you for this video. I own a 84 Buick LeSabre with olds 307. My secondary will not open at WOT im gonna attempt to adjust it the 4 bbl on this carburetor has never worked right. U can tao it open and it wint shut back all the way. It will work it i simultaneously open the secondary and open to full throttle. Gonna give it a try 👍

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  @mark_osborne4 ай бұрын

  There's a little "lock-out" flipper behind the choke that prevents the secondaries from opening until the choke is completely open. Occasionally that flipper doesn't move far enough (even with the choke fully open), and prevents the secondaries from opening. You can remove that lock-out flipper entirely and just be aware that getting into the secondaries on a cold engine may cause it to "bog" a bit. It requires partially removing the choke housing in order to remove the flipper.

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  @hunterriley99044 ай бұрын

  @@mark_osborne oh yes i saw another video about that and my choke was not working correctly for 2 reasons. 1 the front vacuum break was bad replaced it and the choke heater needed adjusting. But those heaters i read were not adjustable some were some weren't mine wasnt because if a notch were it mounted on the housing. I made the decision to file it down to be able to ajust it. It worked. After all that i realize ld my secondaries still were working even with the lockout tab being cleared. Im gonna follow your directions on adjusting it. Can it be down with out taking the top of carb off ?? Thanks 👍

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  @mark_osborne4 ай бұрын

  @@hunterriley9904 If you're real careful, you can remove the choke spring and take the screws out that hold the choke spring housing to the body of the carb, and very carefully pull it away just enough to allow that flipper to come off of the stud it's riding on. If you pull it too far out, the mechanism that drives the choke rod will disengage and you'll be forced to reattach it and that requires removing the top of the carb - but that isn't awful

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  @hunterriley99044 ай бұрын

  ​@@mark_osbornewell i attempted to adjust the secondary air door with no luck. I was able to loosen the set screw and attempt it but the air door isn't operating correctly. It has tension about 1)4 of the way open then flaps open the rest of the way its tight like theres a restriction i cant tell if its in the spring or the shaft. I was able to get it a little better with a sprist if wd40 and move it back and forth for a few minutes but still the same. I took a short video im gonna post it would like your opinion on what the problem may be. Thanks a bunch 👍

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  @mark_osborne4 ай бұрын

  You are right there, that last 1/4 turn is everything @@hunterriley9904

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  @mikescaffo48505 ай бұрын

  Great video sir well done

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  @andrewskibaba5 ай бұрын

  Did you get her going?

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  @mark_osborne5 ай бұрын

  yeah ! she runs great , check out the other video

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  @andrewskibaba5 ай бұрын

  Try and keep cameras ready steady

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  @mark_osborne5 ай бұрын

  Thank you so much Andrew ! You'll be happy to know I have TWO cameras ready and steady