Your friendly neighbourhood hacker channel.
On my channel I document the wonderful world of Making. I build mini CNC machines, PCB plotters and engravers, 3D printers, and simple electronics. I cut and engrave stuff with tools and lasers, or I just take it to bits.
I explore the depths of new or broken hardware, program Arduino micro-controllers, or just try to solve a simple every-day problem.
Just simple and fun hacker stuff.
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yeah so I have a very similar AC to this (comfee, which I think is just midea lite?) After the dual hose mod I easily get to 21°C in my room on a 32°C weather day Before that it struggled to keep 24 and it was also warm in some areas of the room. Now it's cool throughout. In fact, if I set it to 22°C it just turns off for long intervals so I save a ton of energy Everyone that has one of these should know about these mods, it REALLY helps
Bought this printer and EVERY VITAL screw needed tightening. After 2 full days of calibration i'm finally getting good prints. Those who say it worked great out of the box were lucky
Yeah, I've heard this a couple of times now - seems like quality control is lacking a bit - I gave my review unit to my son, and it's still going strong.
Is it normal for these units to feel like a heater is on instead of a ac unit
No, definitely not. But this modification was driven by the fact that they tend to suck in as much heat as they cool down. Generally: they are not very effective as they come.
@@dherrendoerfer I can also feel the pressure raise in the room also is this normal
no.
How did you come up with a 60% efficiency increase? Before insulating, you cooled down by 2°C per 30 minutes. After insulating, you cooled down by 5°C per 30 minutes. Meaning, the unit becomes 2.5 times as efficient at the end, that's an increase of 150%. (5°C/2°C=2.5) (2°C + 2°C * 150% = 2°C + 3°C = 5°C)
Yes ! A performance of 150% is an increase of 50% over the previous value. It's just the wording that implies that 'increase' means above 100%
I'm thinking you WERE overextruding. This happens when the extruder has backslippage issues, that exacerbate themselves at higher extrusion rates. When you calibrate extrusion, you run much higher feed speed than your print consumes, you consume 10cm within a few seconds, while in a real print, a minute may pass. Normally you're supposed to remove the nozzle or hotend to calibrate extrusion flow to eliminate back slippage. Stock extruder often has issues. Weak spring with way too little preload, which also relaxes with time and loses preload. Extrusion gear wear. Quality of extrusion gear machining. I think it should be a steel piece with fine teeth, but instead most of these printers ship with a piece of brass pinion wire, which clearly isn't made for this use. Of course you can just buy a different extrusion gear for almost nothing and the classic the cheapest extruder you can get, the MK8 one usually in yellow anodised aluminium, has the necessary feature to adjust idler spring preload. If you have a plastic idler lever, well you have the problem that if you add spring preload, you're going to break it. One can maybe print one in PETG or HIPS and maybe keep an extra around - the lever i printed in PLA with preload adjustment exploded after a year. Or just buy an aluminium extruder, since it's so dirt cheap :D Or buy something actually good like this fake Titan, that works too i guess :D There is of course a lot more finesse to extruder-hotend combo but the other design issues tend to cause more situational drawbacks.
You're probably right with that assumption, I think there were many things wrong with the old extruder. The main issue was the throat getting way too hot, leading to that popcorning of the filament on the outer lines while underextruding the support and infill. I updated the firmware and the feed settings and both were well-calibrated, with no load on the extruder motor, and in operation extruding at different rates. I'm currently thinking about a spider or mosquito upgrade. But the printer itself has aged quite a bit becoming soft and loose on the rods and bearings.
Nice video. However, I've seen other videos showing that some AC units ARE insulated while being single hose. It's just device dependent, but for to remember!
yeah, research first buy then.
Somehow I just bought this exact unit before looking for a video on 2 hose conversion. 😊😂 So this is perfect! Only difference is I bought the 9000 btu one.
Why would they manufacture more popular one hose models when they could just make them two hose for pretty much the same price while being vastly more energy efficient? Well, isn't that a little bit of a mystery... considering the whole industry is gung ho about the climate and environment.... It's almost like they would RATHER be inefficient.... I really would LOVE to understand
I don't have an answer to that - I suppose it's to keep people unhappy and upgrading constantly. I've been in contact with two manufacturers, and they claim single hose is good enough, dual hose to complicated for the customer. I've been trying to get my hand on a real dual hose unit, but so far to no avail. Also, I've not been able to get a high efficiency low power cooler to test - seems there's also no market for that.
@@dherrendoerfer I saw a dual hose unit on Home depot's website in the mid 300 dollar range... several on ebay too...but a lot of them on ebay say Ebay reconditioned or remanfactured... maybe be just as good. I dunno
Why don't they sell them like this in the first place
Egggs freakibng XACTLY!!!!! I mean... HELLO!! Look how green we have to be with the new regrigerants... ultra efficient systems... appliances.... and yet.... they can just willy nilly make one hose AC's that are about the least energy efficient thing you can possibly think of... aside from just running the thing outside in the heat.....
Little confused, did I miss the part where the second hose is actually attached? Or is that in another video? So far I just saw the discussion about what you could do, but not how to do it.
I have a complete series about this topic - I might make a short overview video soon
Very useful thank you very much friend!
Just finished this upgrade on my old Whynter ARC-10B, and the difference is astounding. It is 120% worth it to pull the covers off the unit and tape over the open space, now this little AC actually performs worth a heck and gets my living room cold! I had been taping cardboard boxes with dryer hose over the intake for years, resulting in a poor man's "dual-hose" setup, but now the hot and cold sides are fully isolated and the performance is just wild. I used 6" insulated ducts (for hydroponics) for intake and exhaust, there is *very* minimal heat leakage from the exhaust hose, and the AC even runs a bit quieter too. I paid ~$250 for this AC in 2014 and it now runs better than ever! Thank you for this video.
I have a second video where I add a third pipe to the intake of the evaporator that pulls the air from a higher point in the room - that adds another 15% of efficiency easily.
I would suggest to 3d print a rectangular adapter to enclose back and side and shrink to a round tube ending in the hose for inlet of exterior air. maybe less restriction ?
Removing any restriction is a good idea, but keep it tight, you don't want the extra hose to leak hot or humid air into the room when the unit is not running.
SPEAKERS SOUND AMAZING!!! 💯🔥 THE BEST 20WAT SPEAKERS. 💯🔥
Always wondered if u leave the door open with a single hose will it not have neg air pressure cus it can pull from the rest of the house and if U have a dual hose and it bad out say Smokey air fan the smoke leak out once it brings the air inside and leak into the house
A dual hose unit should be airtight enough so none of the air cooling the condenser leaks into the room. Granted, thats hard to accomplish, but we get quite close to that.
Where can I find the adapter that you 3D printed???
I haven't seen the unit yet but all of these I've dealt with have two exhaust ports. One usually has a cap. The two are for convenience of where your window is located left or right of the unit. Now looking at your unit where you put an adapter that shouldn't be an exhaust port. Warm air should only exit from the designed exhaust port. The one you connected to is an intake you don't want that going out doors as you'll be sucking in hot air. I may have misunderstood your explanation at the beginning. Now you're talking about two hoses. Those are both exhaust ports. At least in the dozen or more I've used. An easy explanation is place your hand in front of every vent on your unit. If you feel warm air exiting the vent then it should be ported to exit the area you're trying to to cool. If you feel no warm air at any vent then it's an intake. If you feel cold air coming out of a vent it's obviously a cold air vent
Yes and no - I add a port for the second hose where the air that will be exhausted outside is drawn in - this hose is also now pulling air from the outside. The fact that this air is hotter now makes no difference to the phase change heatpump, because only the temperature difference across the condenser counts. The second point is to make sure that the two hoses don't introduce hot or humid air into the room you are trying to cool. So the hoses and the AC itself must be well insulated/airtight. Lastly we don't want the unit to create a vacuum inside the room, because it will then pull air from anywhere - the airtighter the house or room the more the efficiency drops.
hi sir, would you mind to share the driver of the motherboard please, thank you😊
I don't have them any more - but I don't think I ever needed them at all.
I made a similar conversion for my mohorhome however my problem is, due to the lack of space, I had to install the original exhaust hose and the new hose to take the air from outside very close together. Do you think that might be a problem? This would mean the condenser is probably going to take some hot air previously exhausted, mixed with the exterior air
Generally yes. The units usually have enough coolant to support a wide temperature difference across the condenser and still be efficient - maybe you can add guides or vents in a way that separate the air flow somewhat. I build a recessed unit using the three hose design for a friend in a mini-apartment and it works like a charm.
Cus if u add a second hose to cool the condenser it won’t reallly do anything the ones they sell with 2 hoses are mad to use the outside air to cool the condenser then expel that air and the air it wakes in gets recirculated, if u add hose it can magically make the air recirculate so it will still be dumping the good air outsode
But aahh
Will the dehumidifier mode still work with this conversion?
Yes, but not as well, as they usually want you to not connect the outgoing hose in dehumidifier node.
Would it be worth while putting a fan in the funnel shaped inlet from outside and maybe a fan assisting exhaust?or would it tax the system too much
No, it would probably help. But you would heat the cooler with outside air, or introduce humidity maybe.
Tried it without insulating the inside. I’m getting better performance out of my portable AC.
Um the bottom is likely the dehumidifier and the top is where it takes air in?
Can u please tell me how to download chipset drivers of h61 mini itx motherboard?
I have no idea ...
I did this on my Hisense 12000btu and it turned out great, turning on and off like an air conditioner should, and saving energy.
pls share the dimensions of your mod :)
You mean the exhaust hose adapter ?
pls share the dimensions of your mod :)
where is the building plan ??
Linked in the description of the video.
Have you got the stl for the adaptor plate you made?
This one ? drive.google.com/file/d/1FOqgT4FUPJWSTS5HMjqzY3ct0FBWRn6B/view?usp=drive_link
Great video Dirk! I am considering building a small PC with this board also. I have a pair of old G.SKILL Ripjaws (F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL) - any idea if those will work with this board properly? I saw your recent comment saying that you got it working with a set of 'PC3-12800 PC3-12800U 1.5V CL11 240 Pin 2RX8 Dual Rank Non-ECC Unbuffered' - but I don't know how to figure out which RAM will work, and which won't.
Yeah, this board is hit-and-miss when it comes to memory - chances are that many modules may work, but I can't tell you exactly wich ones will do. I just bought the cheapest that was non ecc and 12800U rated.
@@dherrendoerfer thank you !
Thank you for the review Dirk.
Are the fragile without the frame?
The ones I have are not, I've moved them twice now, and I think they are just as good as my other panels.
Hello. Perfect job ! You seem to be someone perfectionist and pugnacious (as a quality of course). You helped me a lot in my research. Did you insulated the 2 interior parts (hot // cold) of this unit with thin insulation sheet + thermal silicone sealant as well, to prevent any air leaks? Finally, do you think it would be interesting to switch to 2 insulated exhaust ducts for air exchange with the outside? (I am thinking of thermal exchanges but also noise attenuation). Sorry for my bad english :)
Thanks ! never heard of that second adjective before ... I think that insulating the hoses only makes sense when you have a very long way to go, in my case I think it's not needed. The unit I have here was not modified internally, I think it's good enough, at least way better than all the others I've experimented with.
I need BIOS Back Up from SZMS B75-MS please 🥹 is broken. I cant find it
which bios utility are you using ?
It is the same motherboard that you have, SZMZ B75-MS from Aliexpress, my BIOS is corrupt and i have a CH431A Bios programer.
It is the same motherboard that you have, SZMZ B75-MS from Aliexpress, my BIOS is corrupt and i have a CH431A bios programer
ok, my question was targeted to find out what tool you wanted me to use to dump the BIOS, so you could use it, but if you have an external programmer that does not really make so much difference.
@dannysshoot06 This fought me a little bit - Here you go: drive.google.com/file/d/1LV69BPD1qABb58sDX5MHeAh0_FHzu9MB/view?usp=drive_link
This would be great, thanks for your answer
Can anybody tell me I would Plug in the Solarpanel and the DC Plug parallel, which one does the Allpouwer Station prefers Thank for answers in advance
It uses both at the same time, as far as I can tell it uses all of the Solar and adds the rest up to its charge maximum from the AC input. It only has one DC input afaik.
Awesome music, thanks!
Do you still have it?
Yes, still use it a lot - not one that does clear resin better
I hope this guy has taken a lesson in editing after this unabridged shocker
Update 1: Auf der Suche nach Clips hat mir eine Lackiererwerkstatt die Frontabdeckung montiert "fummelig" ist wohl das Fachwort, aber jetzt wieder bombenfest.
Wow hello do you still have it? Actually I just love this thing but I don’t have enough money right now if you don’t mind do you have any one to give me…?
Yes I do - I still use it a lot, and (sorry) it's a keeper - no other power station that size will charge from a full-size 58V solar panel.
@@dherrendoerfer Oh okay. But do you have another 500w to 600w power station? If you don’t have one don’t mind me it’s just that here in Nigeria the financial state is just not stable I really need one but i can’t due to 💵
Interesting review. Got one of these with as a first step in 3D printing. Maybe they have changed things since this review. Compared to something you can get now like the Bambu A1-Mini it isn't worth it. Print quality isn't good enough even for basic functional prints. A smallish print of a character took 36 hours! Mine is also really noisy and certainly couldn't be used in an office.
I bought it as an oddity - and I still use it from time to time just to have a laugh, or impress some of my new students. It's quite remarkable too, the mechanics are well designed.
Hi there :) I noticed something strange on my ender. You have a smooth movement from 36:18, but mine goes up slowly and then down. And because of this about 1 cm of filament isn't printed. Any solutions for this? Perhaps someone else has the same problem? I have the latest firmware SWV1.0.6 - THANKS :)
That's indeed odd. I can only guess at what is causing it - maybe the initial calibration was off, and the printer thinks there's a bump in the bed. Clean the nozzle and let the printer calibrate again - that's my best guess ATM.
Thanks for answering! So, well. I cleaned everything, changed the fillament (4 times) and after a while everything was back to normal. I am now using Creality Print so the up and down movement is related to that software. In Cura it goes straight to the print zone. Weird bug...@@dherrendoerfer
Dirk would you like show us a detailed arduino tutorial based on the stepper motor 28byj 48 because there bunch tutorials about this but when you try the code is just buzz the stepper😢. Thanks for your tutorials
Can you mount 2 sections of rail end-to-end to get a longer run or does that result in an bumps/innacuracies as the carriage crosses the joint between two rails?
Yes you can. You need to be very exact, but it's been done before.
Hi! I bought this device just a few months ago and It causes me a lot of troubles. At first It Discharged completely very often without any reason and finally It stopped working. I have to.connect It to the Network to.engage It and then It shows 99% charged so It Will not charged, and after a minute It stops working again and disconnects completely, not even showing then display. It is a nightmare.
Mine still works - and as long as I don't mind the smell, it's alright for what it is - I use it outside for sanding and stuff like that .
This is series of videos on portable AC units is super inspiring and well done on explaining all the details. I really enjoyed watching the conversions to improve the single unit design. It inspired me to undergo a similar conversion and prepare for the summer. It's best to start early, before these units become very expensive and unvailable :) What do you think of the Ometa AC unit 9000BTU, it seems to have similar design with the condesor coil nicelly exposed at the back? I probably would need to open it up to confirm that inside partitions are well separated and sealed, but looks promising. It doesn't seem to have nice removable covers like this Medion unit, but I think that's something I could work around.
Yes, I think that may even be the same unit inside - or something closely related.
What happened to this vid? A big chunk of it is gone, it used to be 10 mins long when I watched this in early 2021. It had explanations on hooking it up to an external power supply to retrieve the data on the hard drives.
Good question - I think so too ..... need to go look for the original file .... hope it's still there
@@dherrendoerfer Please do, it was very useful information. Your vid saved me from losing my data and managed to recover using your instructions. Thanks a lot for that or I would've lost 10 years of accumulated data.
Don't ship to UK 😞
Oh! no. - that's unexpected.
@@dherrendoerfer Yeah, I think it's the dropshipping from Poland, a lot of the Chinese companies still haven't got the hang of/can't be bothered with the Brexit tax changes. Still, hopefully one day we'll be back and we can put all this nonsense behind us...
@pinkmouse4863 you're probably spot-on with that. Hope that finds a good end sometime soon.