Deanz Rodz are builders of high end hot rods and are attempting to build cars to win the legendary Ridler Award ..We will show videos of current projects and the occasional weekend wacky creation . Deanz built the Blue Mamba Karmann Ghia , Grant Achatz's GTO and the infamous Craptastic rotary powered Opel GT disaster along with numerous other insane projects . Dean is a New Zealand born Australian living in Central Illinois USA . All the projects are truely home built in a 3600 square ft building behind his house with a combination of genius and redneck blended together
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Dam spell check make you look like an idiot
I've been doing this for years .your Spindle placement needs to be adjustable and you can build anything hot Rods to 4x4 . you should have a way to adjust the spindle inflammation .not all cars are the same. You need the ability to adjust
. Its for a Ridler car A million dollar show car The idea is to not be the same as off the shelf one size fits all part . It is designed for that one car , Thats all
short and clearly explained. bravo!
Great job. Thanks share
sorry sir, where do you hook the welding machine ground? does it not disturb the bearing if there is ground contact with electric current, please explain, thank you very much
The ground clamps on the base the bearings are large roller bearings not ball bearings so they are not affected by the electricity going through them. the amount of contact area the roller bearing has is a lot . if they were ball bearings they would have nearly no contact area and might arc .
@@DeanzRodz ya its true , May I ask for a picture of the size, you know I'm 50 years old and I often forget . I really like the machine it's simple but very useful, thank you for the response God bless you
You can Tig weld with no problem!
Looks good. Why not make a clamp to position the torch ?
LMAO, Your dog is just like mine, she has to be in the way.
Shes still the bestest dog in the world even at 16yrs old now
hi! i work aluminum alloys 7075 and 6061 series about of weld. can you help me ? I wonder if you can help me with this subject. Can you direct me to the welding research or work. thanks
There is a start-up company called MetaLi, they sell nano-treated aluminum 7075 welding wire. the technology is enabled by UCLA
the wire that i mentioned can weld 7075 and 6061 together.
Do you not worry about UV burns on your bare skin from welding?
That's the best looking one I have seen. Well done!
Now, UCLA engineers have developed a way to weld the AA 7075 alloy. Their lab is called SciFacturing Laboratory( scifacturing.com/), and you can make a further inquiry for nano-treated welding wires from MetaLi company(www.metaliusa.com/)
Very nice welds
Watch the welding ground current doesn't go back to your panel through the motor's ground. I insulated my rotator spindle from the motor ground by using uhmw as the bearings.
Thank you bro. Great video
Great jobb! 👍😎
What rpm motor Didi u go with
Stress test or analysis ? I suspect a lighter material could have been used and still achieve a 10/1 safety ratio.
@Tyler Spindler Yeh I guess Im always thinking how fast can it go not how good it looks.
hi i need engine of harley how much coast this engine
The owner bought the engine for about $1600 and then spent around $4000 on a rebuild . They are hard to find and not cheap
You’re over thought it because you want it or push button but if you could just put it on bearings on a couple of packs you could’ve just turned it up to Pam and had it where you wanted and be done with it but no you had to overthink it too much credit I had that done a lesson four hours 16 hours you killing me man step overthinking shit come down to reality and do it simple you can rotate it with rotating wheels but the Pan Am worry and when it all done no worries stop overthinking shit it will help you move through stuff quicker good luck man you’re the mom DONE GOOD BUT YOU OVER THINK SHIT I DO IT TO DO NOT FEEL BAD YOU DID GOOD
I copied and pasted this into Google translate and its just said WTF ?
Been up a while?
Nicest design I’ve seen - well done!
Good job. But maybe instead of an armrest a torch holder would be the desired alternative?
Excellent design, and a great video!
Deanz Rodz Great video, thanks for sharing! I was an aircraft mechanic and knew that 7075 isn't supposed to be welded, but like you, I have a project that needs to be welded. It's a pair of large tubes, that need to be butt-welded for a display.....nothing structural. What rod would you recommend for doing something like that?
I just used er4043 . Nothing special . Like I said its fine to weld if you want to make something that has no critical use . it is pretty easy to weld . Its just something that should never be welded in any thing it actually designed for .
@@DeanzRodz Thanks! I have about half a pound of er4043, so I'll try that once I finish machining the parts. I appreciate the input!
What a great job you did on this machine. I am looking to build a similar set-up.
a team at the UCLA Samueli School of Engineering set about addressing that problem. In the course of doing so, they fabricated thin rods made of 7075 infused with minuscule particles of titanium carbide. These rods were then placed between larger pieces of the aluminum alloy which were about to be joined, acting as a filler. When the rods and adjacent material were subsequently melted in an arc welding process, the nanoparticles eliminated the uneven flow issue.
Can you sell one of the “scraped” roller bearing setups? This is what was in my head too. Nice work
I could turn one down and sell it to you but they are insanely heavy and shipping them might be sticker shock .. They are well above the 70 pounds that usps and ups handle they would be truck freight . I wouldnt be shocked to see the cost of shipping to be a couple hundred dollars
Deanz Rodz where about are you?
@@udrh2o Central illinois
I've been surfing the tube looking at positioners for ideas. This is one of the cleanest looking ones.
You are probably right on the shouldn't weld this aluminum deal. 7075 has <1% titanium and the culprit that causes the issue is zinc in the alloy because it vaporizes out during the welding. Weld some brass using 203 bronze rod and see what I mean, the zinc vaporizes under an electric arc. But suppose you have to weld up 7075, well the 5356 rod and a big time preheat of the 7075 are necessary to accomplish that goal without the micro stress fractures forming that become weld failures. I found that double welding is a must with 7075 to burn out any zinc left behind in the bead area So your weld will essentially be 6061 type alloy with a much lower zinc content. Please note that a properly done part must be at 400+ degrees and slowly aircooled. I worked in aerospace as an engineer/biologist from the early 70s when I was working my way through college. I worked in R&D for Teledyne for my first job after college and this issue came up. I told them the micro fractures are impossible to eliminate, but an old timer disagreed. So we welded and tested, welded and tested until we came up with the solution I outlined. When re-welding or going over the previous weld you must feather the pedal and push down on the pedal and back off until the puddle solidifies then move over and slam the pedal again. Have a rosebud torch ready and keep heat on the part and let it slowly cool. It is in the cooling cycle when the cracks occur and only an x ray can spot them at this stage. 7075 is so rigid and it is prone to failure as a given because of the rigidity. Problem with this welding solution is it changes the temper of the whole part, 400 degrees for a long period of time can change the heat treatment so a welded part must be checked and re-heat treated. Also the bicycles that are welded 7075 I'd bet they have a piece of metal inside the tubing so the bike doesn't just bust someday. I've done that and spliced a smaller rod inside the tubing, but it defeats the lightweight purpose of using aluminum. I have access to an old Miller Synchrowave 250 and I use it from time to time. Anyway there you go, but it's such a pain in the ass it would be cheaper to use titanium in the first place, also you need an industrial metal x ray machine to check your weld. I wouldn't trust it if I couldn't check it if the part was under any kind of side stress, Now the parts welded like this had no failures for at least three years and then I was laid off and went to Rockwell to develop life support systems. I don't know what happened to them long term beyond that.
Thank you for sharing this video, very difficult task indeed to put your front grill back together ! Beautiful car !
Very helpful, thank you!
Can you ask you another question ? What would you thinck to wrap a cracked AL alloy part in carbon fiber ? To bandage the entire part in carbon fiber ? Would the Aluminum corode under it ? I apreciate a lot your help ! TY !
I have no idea if wrapping it would work . I am just guessing but if the piece was cleaned well and dry and the wrapped with a vacuum bagged carbon fiber I cant see why it would corrode . That should remove anything that would aid corrosion . if you are going that far would it no be best to simply make the entire piece in Carbon fiber . They are using Carbon fiber for control arms in Formula 1 cars if they can withsatnd that I am sure it would work in a bicycle application .
The cracked part is the end of the rear fork . Is a thick portion of aluminum , like 1/3 inch thick and long of 2-3 inches. Is 100 % stiff, no flexibility there whatsoever . So I thought as a solution to wrap the entire portion in carbon fiber, like a bandage and to not worry if the crack will continue . Drill the end of the crack to stop it , fill it with resin, then bandage the entire part in 3 or 4 layers of carbon fiber and vacuum it . The only worryI have is of some reaction between the aluminum and the carbon fiber, not to oxidize under it and to form a layer of that white AL oxyde and to come of with the entire bandage . I am an electrical engineer , I can understand physics and chemistry:)) but I don't have much experience either in welding or in composite materials :) And I really like the bike and want to save the frame :))
And sorry about my english :)
And how are bicycles made from 7075 welded then ?:D
I have never heard of a bicycle being made from 7075 .They may be doing it but It would be pointless to do so . The cost of 7075 is so high and in a bicycle I see no use for it . 7075 is an areospace aluminum . I have no idea who would think it would a good idea to use it in bicycles . 7075 should never be welded in anything that has any kind of use that involves stress . Quite simply you dont weld 7075 . You can but you shouldnt . I would be more likely to believe that someone is claiming to be building bicycles from it and full of shit
I seen plenty of bikes made of 7075 :)) Enduro and Full MTB bikes . I am european, the bikes are made in Germany .
The bicycles here costs more than a good SH car :))
I just googled it because I was curious and there is people building bikes with 7075 and that surprised me but then a little more digging and it didnt surprise me . .. The forums are complaining that the bikes built from 7075 are breaking . So it confirms what i said .. You can weld it . But you shouldnt .. Its like saying can you drive a car off a cliff while you are in it .. You sure can but its not a wise idea to do so
I understood they add scandinum in the alloy to make it weldable .
What temps can it handle mate
It hasnt got hot yet . I have ran a ton of stuff in it and its never absorbed that much heat . I doubt it has broke 200 degrees . The rollers are hotter than that when they are in the pellet machine they come from originally
Spinning pipe lens
Or gas lens
So basically "how to make a welding rotator if you have thousands of dollars worth of available equipment". Cool. Not for me.
All this stuff is in the garage behind my house . Most of which I bought at auction for a few bucks dragged it home and rebuilt it over 25 years .. Only few new machines I have is the CNC machine and my TIG , Which I got by driving same pile of crap car for 20 years and working 12 hours a day in a factory I hated for 15 years before starting my own place . Not one thing is handed to me . The building I built myself over a 3 year period which I fell off breaking my leg and arm . I poured all 85 yards of concrete myself . I nailed every wall stud and wired every inch myself . I took my first vacation in 28 years this year and still drive a 20 year old truck . I also make less than minimum wage working for myself . however I love every minute I spend in my shop building stuff . So if you get off you ass and work as much as I do you too could have thousands of dollars of available equipment . Or you can sit around and be jealous of what I have from working my ass off to get it
If you don't have an investment in other shop equipment, why do you even need a positioner? This build is very cool, and made mostly with tools and materials he already had. If you need the same type of tool, then make one to suit your situation and take the time to make a video of your solution. Horses for courses.
@@DeanzRodz ...I'm exactly in your boat. I charge a fck of a lot for WHAT I do. I started out same as you a 12 hour day man and still got sh1t money. I got my smarts from my Dad and I built on them with observances during my working life. Now I work in a microscopic 5mm field of view. There's a weld pool I stare into...usually 2mm or 0.080" in diameter...and...I pay myself 2 x what my detracting boss used to pay himself...but you and I know what the real reward is...yeah we earn money...but the real.payment is getting some of those impossible jobs done through using our ingenuity...using our smarts that this prick thinks come from having thousands of dollars of gear in the background. My smallest powered rotary was a small rotary table set on the spindle of a music box motor. I did a 40 thou repeatable radius doing that. Then used a guitar string tightened...then a Double Bass string winder. I looked at a bizzare ice cream cup rotator...you put ice cream in the cup and the little kiddie would just lick in one spot as the cup slowly rotated. I made a square ended drive...that drove a job making an easy 2 grand. I'm in awe of your capabilities as others say to me...I didn't think it was possible. Onya Mate. Mike
Thanks for sharing. I'm wondering; what kind of program did you use on the computer to mock up your geometry? I'm currently using drawling paper and math. Which is extremely time consuming.
I use AutoCAD . I have an older version which I bought but they have free downloads of a trail version . If you have a old spare computer than you don't connect to internet , Download the free trail version which is good for 30 days and then disconnect it from internet and you will have it for as long as you don't reconnect it .. Lot better than buying a $3000 software
Thanks so much!
so you have ground current running through the bearings ?
Yup . it doesn't seem to be an issue the current is always stable , The welds are nice and constant. I looked at the bearings once and there is no arcing going on so I am happy with it
great!
Great video.
Thanks for the info :)
Great video. Between your cad program and all your time and machinery, your chip barrel got me wondering if youve thought about 3D printing a mold, and then casting it, or would it not be a strong enough alloy. Im assuming that block was forged and pressed at some point. Im no metalurgist, or machinest. But either way cool video. Subbed.
I don't have a 3d printer but the possibility of casting a spindle is possible and just using a wood pattern. Production cars all use a cast spindle and I am not sure what the majority of them are made out of but I am assuming they are just nodular iron . I know some are cast steel and if I were to cast them I would cast them out of 1045 steel . I have been experimenting with casting lately so later on casting is getting closer to a reality . But in this case the block of Chrome Moly used here was simply the right thing at the right price at the right time .
I really liked the creation of the dogleg sections for the rear. Thanks!
Very interesting! Thanks!
Maybe had height adjustment to the armrest bar ?
Geez.....I'm glad I came back to this vid. I wrote out a comment last time I watched it....yesterday.....but I guess I didn't hit the "comment" button since it's not here. I really, really enjoyed this video! I'm surprised I haven't come across it before when I was searching this subject. I love the way you hid the lower ball joint nut inside the steering arm. Beautiful!!! Thanks for taking the time to make and share this vid. :) Mike ......I'd love to see some more like it. :)
Beautiful! I'm pretty sure this was in a Casey Neistat vid. Timing difference between the vids makes it seem like his was a good while before your work was added.......or maybe it's not even the same place.....sure seems like it though. :) kzread.info/dash/bejne/dXiMsdJqYs7dmJc.htmlm3s .....figured I'd include a link since I doubt you would come across it otherwise. Will you still have time to finish the Zephyr for the show? I'm looking forward to seeing more vids like the spindle build. Thanks!! Mike
yup hats same building . Same group guys same cars .. as for the Zephyr its going to be 2019 Detroit .. I am doing the billet work for it now and detail touches .. They always take a lot longer than expected . Sadly with ridler cars you cant show them till after the show so I am collecting video for the release .. I am also making a build video of the Ghia ( long long overdue)
I am glad to see that folks still make things out of stuff they don't throw away. my grandfather had a " bone yard" and every so often he would need to make something, like a walnut hulling machine and a dryer that could handle ten tons a day.... a coule of mixer truck transmissions and some streetsweeper parts and he had it rigged. saved himself about a hundred grand, and that is NEVER a bad idea!
Liked your MIll, your lathe is an old girl, hope it's still serving you well👍
What mill are you using? Very nice arcs. Did you add cnc stuff an older machine?
awesome, nice work sir!!!