Electronic Cinematronic Music duo from Sweden. Video projections & light in combo with our own built innovative musical instruments. We create multisensory experiences.
- We work artistically, write music and design new technologies, light and video projections in combination with our own built innovative musical instruments. Moneeo is a concept where the visual and creative, along with the music, that makes the whole experience. Moneeo was born in 2004 and made the first performance at Electro at Sjömanskyrkan, Gävle, May 18, 2004. Venues we played at; Norbergfestivalen Sweden, Electronic Music Midwest Chicago, The Sage Gateshead Newcastle Great Britain, Stockholm City Hall (The Blue Hall where the Nobel Prize ceremony is held). - We are that dedicated that when we got married 2018 we decided to take Moneeo in our hearts to our last name forever. And to celebrate it, we released our single; We Are Moneeo, on Spotify november 2018. 14 years of our music history sampled to one piece.
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Dont change any pots , until you have proved , it really is the POT , get a SCOPE on it FIRST , it could be something further down ,, , , get some DEOXIT D5 and spray switches , you can do this from the TOP , pull off tge BUTTS with pliers and spray down the NECK of the switch , and pump the switch , especically the LINE SW , the EQ sw and the VCA SWITCH , because the signal passes thru all these switch contacts , if you look at the circuit , even when the switch is OFF the , the signal passes thru the " other side " contacts ,so these have to be clean as well as the ' switched contacts "
Yeah, i have been getting seconds thoughts before i change the pots. Your right, the switches ARE also making crackles so that could be the first thing to try out easy. Thanks for the Deoxit tips, thats a good start. I am thinking of trying Deoxit F5 on the pots as a first step. Could that be worth trying? I never used an osc, but this could be the perfect time to get to learn how to use one. Is there anything special feature i need to look out for when buying my first osc?
@ 15:53 ,,,,,, you sat down and said " oh man " oh yeh ....... ive been there !!!!!!! 😊😊😊😊
I believe there will be coming more moments like this further down this process ha ha🤣🤣🤣
The last year 25 years of my life just flashed by me 😊😊😊😊🤣😊🤣😥😊🙃😊😝😂🤣🙃🤗😥🙃🎵🎶😊🤣
Ha ha, i guess you have been carrying many many many JADE's in to your workshop over the years.😀👍 Is there a good way to do it or is every move a struggle and just a matter of muscles🤣🤣
Thanks again, love the progress on reviving the old Jade!
Thanks, getting closer step by step.👍
A question - when you are soldering - what headset are you using. It looks great - like an old jewellers magnifier. Trying to get something similar but have only found cheap junk.
This is the one i found. It has three different lenses to combine and a small LED light that could have been a little bit stronger IMO. It was around 33 $/€ and pretty OK quality. I takes some time to get used to. in the beginning its easy to get feeling of sea sick, but it's great when you have getting used to it. www.velleman.eu/products/view/?id=387484
@@moneeo Thanks so much
Some Blue-Tac on the bench for when you cant use the "helping hands" with soldering.
Aha, so i could have used blue-tac to to hold the battery - that is so clever, thanks for the tip!👍
indeed crocodile clips in australia
Excellent, thats great ot know!👍
Yes, they are called crocodile clips in the UK, and in the US they are called aligator clips.
Aha, that great - thanks!👍
Well done folks great job and series. Maybe put some solder mask on the jumper cable? Remember, flux is your friend and IPA with a tooth brush will clean all the flux residue away. Thanks folks, keep the videos coming
Thanks.👍 Have never used solder mask before, is that to protect the wire from oxide? Flux is new to me, but it seems like it could help get the solder to connect a lot better, right?
@@moneeo Yeah the solder mask protects the wire and also protects shorts if anything comes in contact with the wire. Get UV mask, spread it on and cure it with a UV lamp ( pretty cheap to buy the mask and a UV lamp). Flux will help with flowing the solder to the pads ( solder points on the PCB )Some good flux would be Amtech 559 comes in a syringe and easy to apply. Get some IPA ( Isopropol alcohol ) and a toothbrush to clean away the flux residue with some cotton buds and lint free tissue paper👊
Great move to get an esd mat. 👍 I also have a "custom plug" to attach to ground on the wall plug. Like you said, you have to know what you are doing.😁 - Great discovery of the back panel. It also gives you access to the trim pots!
Thanks, it feels great to learn and improve for every step in the process.👍
HAHAHA, this was my summer project last year. it was a 48 channel recording desk, took everything apart, cleaned, check3ed caps, my advice, by zip up mlaundry bags and clean your knobs in the washing machine, they came out beautiful. bought them from temu for pennies.
great story, our analog sweeties really need this kind of love!❤ What kind of desk was it?
@@moneeo allen and heath gl4000 dual use. its gone already, i rescued it from a dumpster at a church in gary indiana, looking for my next project.
@@bigdaddy-fk5bi Wow, that's a great dumpster rescue - nice!👍
@@moneeo buddy thats my 3rd console rescue.
@@bigdaddy-fk5bi ❤
Varta batteries are the bane of so much vintage hardware, computers, games, synths, outboard and apparently mixing desks too! Amazing how much logic there is in that desk considering it is essentially an analogue mixer! Bet there's not so many chips in my Mackie 8 bus! 😅
Don't trust the meters
Ha ha, at least not until they have been properly calibrated. They are all over the place right now 🤣
That varta is an rechargeable. Be sure not to charge your replacement. Looks like a lithium battery...
That is sooooo true and we ordered a new battery as soon as we found out. Will change it in the next videos and take care of battery nr two. 😀 We are truly grateful that you guys watching our videos, chiming in when you notice things that we might have missed. 👍
@@moneeo I use these to replace batteries in vintage computers. But disable the charging. Sometimes this requires cutting a trace. If it is not already eaten away 🫣🪓
@@blenderbuch Ha ha, in that case a destroyed trace could actually be a benefit. 🤣🤣
kzread.info/dash/bejne/aWSD2LipmLjHeqw.html sir, 14500 means the size of the battery (14x50mm), not the mAh :).
I'm the one mixing up the numbers on the battery in the video, sorry for that.😀 The correct number is 2400 mAh.
What were they thinking, soldering a battery to a circuit board???🤔😵💫Great video ❤
Yeah, i have no idea, but there must have been some reason...🤔
That's standard practice for audio gear. A lot of equipment like synthesizers or effect units have batteries soldered to the pcb. It's usually easy to desolder and replace them, for any studio technician. A soldering iron used to belong in any studio.
@@UseYourBrain930 Any idea of what could be the benefit, other than that it's easier in manufacturing to solder straight on to the PCB than to a battery holder?
I put one of those same lithium cells in a delay unit but i could not solder to it without a special flux so i put it in a battery holder. Pointless using baking soda and vinegar. You are just adding alkali and an acid again. Just use baking soda with a little distilled water to neutralise the battery acid but then you must remove all residue so no future reactions can continue. Use more distilled water or rubbing alcohol to finish up.
I also thought of using alcohol to clean things up, but someone told me it could destroy the thin layer of coating on the PCB. Distilled water sounds like a great idea that we will use for the further process - thanks for the tips!👍
You use baking soda for acid containing batteries and white vinegar for alkaline batteries, the aim is to neutralise the opposite chemical deposits. You should never leave the mix on too long or it can lift traces on the board.
@@moneeoNot sure why someone told you that? IPA is industry standard to clean PCBs. First use your neutaliser to remove battery deposits, then IPA or tap water to clean depending on how dirty, then distilled water to rinse. To clean up flux after solder work use IPA and then rinse with distilled if needed
I had a situation with an Early 80's keyboard, and converted it to a button cell battery that could easily be changed in the future.
That is some true love for the technology from back then!❤️
It seems to me (maybe), the small board remais attached by the row of pots on the front pannel.
we did some more research on it, and yes it is attatched to another PCB, that holds the pots, and we need to get em both out.
Great feeling isn't? I have done this before.(and still do it) It's a labor of love! Might I suggest; when handling pcb with such rare ICs, you should probably ground yourself with a wrist strap to avoid static discharge. You don't have to wear it on you wrist. You can attach it to any part of your body. As long as your body is attached to ground(earth in Europe). I always do this when handling any pcb with ICs. Good luck.👍
That is a truly great advice that we will do for the rest of the project - thanks!👍 Is it a good idea to connect the ground of the ESD wrist strap/mat to the ground of the JADE?
@@moneeoYes. As long as your ground source is a solid one. I find the wrist strap gets in the way sometimes. You may find this funny but, I usually remove the strap from the wire (it just snaps off) and just insert the end of the wire inside my pants at my waste. Just make sure the the wire contacts flesh. Et voilà! You are grounded and hands free!😎
You can get an antistatic matt connect it to the ground system and buy heel straps for your feet.. that way the cable wont get in the way which it always does!. Just remember to tuck the ground strip into your socks :P
@@sylvaind9086 Sounds great, will try a solution for the next step - keep an eye on upcoming videos!👍
@@projekct_amk Heel strap sounds like a great solution - thanks for the tips!👍
Could you not cut the battery off where it is leaving as much of the leg as possible, then solder on some long cables to place a new battery wherever is convenient?
I have a Soundtracs Solitaire and did exactly this...Also advisable to keep the mixer turned on for long enough to get a lasting charge into the battery...
That advice is a good solution to not have to stress the circuit board more than necessary.👍 But since the second battery seems to have pretty much battery acid leaking, i got the advice (from a soundtracs Service technician) to take the PCB out, just make sure there are no damaged traces on the PCB.
Great tips Martin, since it has been sitting almost untouched for 2 years before we bought it, i believe there can be oter benefits as well to keep it running for some time.👍
Can recomend deoxit F5 for the faders and pots and deoxit D5 for switches and input jacks and XLR's!
Great, we just bought both of em and will give em a try!👍
And when you reseat the ICs you will get a slight noise. This is normal (assuming you have the bottom of the board well supported). Also make sure you have anti static stuff (ideally a strap as well as the board on an anti static mat).
it sounds a bit scary to pull out and clean the legs of the IC's. We could get in to a REAL problem if one of them broke. 😳
In that case. Make a foundation out of a mat or similar flat item that will support the board. Use 2 or 3 fingers across the top of the ice and gently push. It will settle in and ensure good connection. What happens is as the board/chips heat and cool they slowly “walk” out of the socket. Gentle and methodical
Be careful flexing a board of that size. Make sure you support it. Also, those sockets that the ICs are in can get oxidized. So while you're in that deep, its worthwhile removing the ICs (with a good tool, not a screwdriver) cleaning the legs and sockets and replacing (with a good tool). Have fun.
It sounds scary to remove the IC's, since they been sitting there for so long and are really fragile. It sounds like they could easily be damaged when removing them...
@@moneeo the ICs are more robust than you think, but, devices of that era are very sensitive to static electric discharge, so invest in an anti-static wristband and an anti-static mat for the top of that flight case you are soldering on, because some of the ICs used in audio equipment from that era are getting expensive (they are becoming hard to find). BTW that board you pulled is basically a computer ;-)
@@StuartTaylorEsquire That sounds great, could be a future project to take care off.👍
Great time to recap your board too, not too many electrolytics. Have fun, use a desoldering tool i was nervous when you pulled Legs w/ plyers😂, im recaping my channel strips in my soundtracs too and sometimes pads or traces lift with just looking at it😅. Keep out the good work Keep posting videos! Nice work
Recapping is on the todo list for the future. I believe it will take some time since there seems to be aprox 48 electrolyts per channel...😳 This project is one step at a time, and they are probable baby steps since everything takes so much longer time the first time we do it. 😀 Thanks for you encouragement, we will keep filming!👍
@@moneeo remember to add bypass caps around the audio electrolitics and, and decoupling caps for the rails of your opamps. It will be a lot 😅. On your mute board there is like 10 or more wlectrolitics to be changed.
@@moneeo For that old console a PSU recap is a must and i´ll do it asap, also power distribution caps inside the console. A failure on a channel strip is a pain but nothing serious, a failure of the PSU or the power distribution can be a disaster for the whole console! Also 30 years ago there was not that much noise as now at electric grid caused by switching power supplies from TV, laptops, etc... so an iec connector emi filter chassis mount for the PSU certainly will not hurt, if the PSU does not have it... Have fun and good luck!
@@jplexstudios This is the first time i have heard of "bypass caps around the audio electrolitics and, and decoupling caps for the rails of your opamps" - could you tell me a bit more about what that is good for?
@@nomoimusic3096 We are thinking about getting a new Bluedog PSU and have the old one as a spare.
I would have zero concern washing that circuit board in tap water and rinse with distilled water just for peace of mind. I washed PC motherboards and even CRT monitor PCBs with no problems. On really dirty boards I used liquid dish soap, rinse them well and let them dry. I didn't have always access to compressed air but that can shorten the drying time.
Whaaaattt - that sounds a bit to brave for us!😀
@@moneeo just give it a try, not on your best equipment if you don't feel brave enough😁.
Senior EE here. It's fine but distilled water is cheap enough to use entirely. A grounded ESD mat and wriststrap is a good idea since mosfets and older digital chips don't handle ESD very well.
I worked for GEC Marconi in Edinburgh as a Milspec repair specialist for RAF Nimrod flight control systems (Avionics) it was standard procedure to wash the boards to remove the flux and the horrible antivibration covering they painted them with. Basically it was a sink, a neutral soap solution and a nailbrush. Once cleaned they where placed in a drying cupboard for a few hours. I would suggest do a small one first get your courage up but you'll be fine.
It's only fine if there are no mechanical components like potentiometers and carbon tracks. Ultrasonic cleaner is the prefered device for this type of job and only distilled water. However the affected arrea should be NEUTRALIZED no matter what and that has nothing to do with cleaning really.
Hi Per several viewers don't understand if the batteries leak the board tracks are damage, you should have called me if you had taken the first back panel of you could have got at the CPU board without taking out all those channels but never mind there are actually 112 mute switches if you have the 4 on the Aux return channel thats 96 on the 48 channels 12 on the master Aux outs and the 4 on the Aux returns good luck Mike Baker
You are so right Mike, we really apreciate the advice from you who are more experienced in doing this service. I will have to check the back panel - that seems like the correct way to reach these PCB's. Thanks for the tips mate!🙏❤
Interesting that you have changed these batteries for something completely different .. Those batteries are rechargable and therefore the board will have a charging circuit .. which then may have trouble with your new type of battery. Is your new one also rechargable? My Solitaire has one automation board for 12 channels .. So I have 4 batteries on total to change and 3 boards to fix (corrosion is quite bad). Are you sure there are not other boards to change too under the other channels?
You are so spot on - these batteries are not rechargeable. Thanks for making us aware of that - new (rechargeable) batteries are now ordered!🙏❤
Great video again folks. Maybe just solder the second battery in situ. I think when I changed the 2 batteries I done them in situ. If I remember I flipped the center section on it's side on the console and managed to solder it from there. Good luck you guys. Remember flux is your friend
But if you leave unpowered for any time they start to leak, at least if they are away on leads they can leak elsewhere and not destroy the PCBs
Yeah we thought about that for the second battery. But that one seems even more damage, so we got advice to try to get the PCB out just to have a look at it and make sure the traces and components next is ok.
@@moneeo Nice one. You guys rock!!! Since the battery on the center section is upside-down, I think any leakage would drip down and not affect the pcb as much as the other battery does. The traces are a little fragile and replacing caps is daunting. The legs of the caps are all bent outwards ( for keeping them in place for soldering ). The legs can be cut directly underneath the cap, then you can either splice the cap onto the old legs or heat them from the topside and remove the legs ( pins) from underneath with tweezers. Just be gentle and use some flux.
@@Joey-rp5vg Yes, hopefully gravity have saved the board from some of the battery acid.👍
Ni är sköna =) <3
Ha ha, tack!❤🙏
What ever turns you on.
Those are probably collet knobs. You need to pop off the caps, use a knife blade, and you will see a slotted tube under the cap, get a screwdriver to fit properly on the slots, not just one side. Righty tighty.. Once the collets are loose push the knobs down or give them a light tap to free them then lift them off. After the knobs are removed you can see the shaft nuts just loosen and remove, the board will drop loose.
Yeah your right - we can see now that these are collet knobs! Now we just need to fix a tool to loosen those screws.👍
Hi, also: If the collet nut is above the shaft a wide blade screwdriver will work, if the shaft protrudes above the collet nut you need the special collet wrench, (you can make one, the shaft is probably 6mm). Mentor is a manufacturer of collet knobs i Europe and they sell the tools. ALSO, ALSO: make sure you hold the knob securely when spinning the collet nut use a pair of pliers with a rag so you don't mar the knob. This is important because if you spin the collet nut without holding it you can destroy the pot and possibly the traces on the PC board holding it. I've done it, not pretty. Good luck!
As said above, remove the knobs. Get a pry tools like a nail remover and slot it in underneath and prise it up. Good luck Moneeo
Will give it another try!👍
I saw on your short video you need tips to remove the circuit board with the battery. It looks like you may need to remove the knobs on the dynamics board. I would try to prise off the top cap and see how they are fixed. Some have a nut under that cap. Then it looks like the board has a socket it plugs into so will need to be wiggled off that. Good luck! I bought a Solitaire to fix (was cheap and had been sitting for a while) unfortunately the batteries in the Solitaire are in a place that causes bad damage when they leak .. and so the circuit boards need extensive repair. Check if this is the only battery in the desk ... There may be others
Aah, yes ofcourse - it could be caps with the screw on top, i did not evne think about that. I will check it out - thanks for the tip! Yes, there is one more battery that has been taking care of by now. There will be a longer video about our battery adventures as soon as they are done. Sounds like a great project with the solitaire, but i guess it's a massive job if the PCB have been damaged by the acid. Hope you manage to get it fixed - it's a beautiful desk!👍
that's easy. Simply pull off the knobs to release the board with potentiometers
Yeah it seems easy at first, but the rotary switches are attatched to a second pcb, that is underneath the one with the battery. And the knobs wont come off like they do with normal potentiometers (thses are rotary switches).
I know. I have done it myself. You have to pull hard on the knops
@@Frank290578 Great, than i probably was a bit to careful at the first try. Thanks a lot, so good to get advice from you who have done it before, that is highly appreciated!👍
thank you🙂 I'm glad I could help you
@@moneeo A tip, fasten the bottom pcb again that the rotary switches are soldered too before pulling off the rotary caps.
Take the potentiometers caps out, maybe there are some "tuercas" (in spanish, sorry) holding those pots to the card. Remove those and the card should be loose. Just a guess. LOL
We are thinking about that to, but then we have to get the second PCB that is underneath the battery PSB as well...hmmm...
Just cut the battery leg and solder some wire to the existing leg ..put the new battery inside insulated tape or some ...and zip tie anywhere in the console ...
Spot on - that seems like the best option at this point!!!👍 It is probable moredangerous to get the PCB off, than to just solder the wires in place as you suggest. Thanks mate!🙏
How about removing the knobs for the rotary switch for the dynamic processor (on the surface)? 😊
I tried ti take em off, but they seems to be tightened somewhere. Or maybe i need to use a little bit more force, wich feels a bit scary.😬 There is also a second circuit board that the rotary switches are mounted to, so maybe this is a bit bigger operation.
Never 😅😊🎉
Excellent desk. I have a CP6800, servicing it currently. Great sounding mixers. Great video.
Thanks!👍 Great to service these old beauties, what is it that need to be done to your CP6800?
Worked on a CP6800 a long time ago. Decent console, i think. First time i used console automation
@@fjn667 Console automation was such a revolution back these times!👍
In the past Tim Jones by Studio Systems in the UK sold all the parts you need. He is retired but maybe his successor have those knobs for you guys. Cheers, Erik
Hey Erik, great to meet you! Yes we got in contact with mike who taken over Tims parts and he has a lot of what we need and is super helpful supporting us with tips from his long experience.
Most problems are from the EQ on of switch . Just press it on of and the sound comes back
We hard crackels from it, but had no idea it could be that's causing the cracles that seems to come from rotating the gain pots.
also the low cut switch if you do not have sound it need cleaning
@@Frank290578 Aha, thanks we will try that!👍
search for the Blue Dog PSU for the desk it runs cooler
That's on our wish list!👍
I remember doing this with my desk (Allen & Heath Syncon B) many moons ago. I don't think you need to swap out those pots - clean them and use them and they will probably be fine. I doubt there are any trim pots internally (might be wrong) so you will need to do some further testing to work out why you are getting different levels - but it's an old analogue desk - it's not going to be perfect - that's part of the character of it - probably best to build that into your workflow as you get used to working with it. And as others have said, use it, and if it ain't broke (really broken rather than noisy) don't fix it - the PCBs will be fragile, you'll need a steady hand and a precision soldering iron if you're going to swap things out. Good luck and keep the videos coming.
deoxit is on it´s way now - i give it a shot before i try to replace the pots. I found two small screw driver pots pretty close to the gain knobs, it would make sense if they where for calibration, but i am just guessing now. I will film them for an upcoming episode.👍
Welcome to the studio console family! Be prepared for routine maintenance but in my opinion it is well worth the price of admission!
Thanks - it feels so great to be back behind an analog console where i once started, after all these years working digital.❤
DeOxit is your friend....
Yeah, seems like i have to order some of it, thanks!👍
@@moneeo just so you know there are separate deoxit for faders and separate deoxys for potentiometers
@@everythingcomputer Yeah, i ordered both F5 (fader & pots) and D5 (contacts).
Nice desk! Back in the 90s I worked for the South African agents for Soundtracs, and I worked on a lot of them, most the MX and FX series. As @FLIGHTCASEMUSIC says, Deoxit is the best solution, expensive but very good. As far as I recall, the channel strip pots are sealed, but I used to drill a 1mm hole in the casing and spray into the body which solved all but the very worst issues. If you do this, drill into the corner of the pot, away from the carbon track, and drill only until you have just pierced the casing. So drill slowly and STOP as soon as you get through the casing. You'll have to take the PCB off the front panel to do this. Its a big job fixing a console like this, but very satisfying as well.
Some of the level imbalances might be ribbon connector related, so for example with chans 1 & 2, swap their positions on the ribbon cable (plug chan strip 1 into chan strip 2 position, and 2 into 1s position). If the level difference follows the channel, then the issue is on the channel strip. If the level difference stays as it currently is, then the issue is not on the channel strips but on the ribbon cabling system. Spray some Deoxit into the ribbon connector and plug it in and out a couple of times (almost like massaging the pot) to remove anything that might disturb the electrical connection.
If I may make another suggestion, concerning re-capping the electrolytic capacitors in the channels, re-cap one channel and then compare the other channels to the re-capped channel. Listen for weak bass and slightly fuzzy audio in the un-capped channels. Electrolytic caps typically last for 10-20 years so yours are past their usage date, but depending on how hard the console was used, they might still be OK. Ears are the best judge.
Wow, what an amazing tips about the pots, that could really be worth trying before switching all of them. I am so grateful to get in touch with experienced Jade people like you that have so valuable information about the console, and solutions to make it great again. Thanks for sharing!🙏
@@petercornell2002 Aha, i would never have figured that out about the ribbon connectors, and it make sense when you mention it. There are four ribbon connectors for each channel, i guess i change all of them, like swapping channels or is there only one of them that needs to be changed to test it? Yeah, it has never been recaped so i guess it could make a big difference in sound. Later on i will recap two channels and compare it to the others and see if it is worth trouble. There seems to be 48 caps on each channel, which makes 1536 caps in total...😳
@@moneeo Without seeing a service manual, I could not tell you offhand, so I guess its all 4.....
Great stuff you guys. Since the desk is an old girl, she's gonna need some TLC for sure. Do a few rounds of sliding, turning and pushing everything on that board, as lack of use is normally what the crackles are coming from. Kontakt cleaner then deoxit as said above will aid in the cleaning process. Touch everything as much as you can and use them first before renewing any pots or switches, cause remember these are old boards and re-soldering new parts will be a challenge to the old traces on the PCB's, maybe use that as a last resort or if the component is truly kapot. I never calibrated my inputs to the led meter as it wold be an ongoing and never ending job for me. Unless it interferes with the sound / use then leave as is. The 2 batteries are a must, please renew them as soon as. Its not much work and you dont need to remove all IO modules to get to them. The console needs to be used as much as possible and it will more than likely sort out alot of crackles for you. Thank you very much for these fantastic videos. You 2 rock!!!!!!! Good luck
Thanks a lot!🙏 You are right, we need to get it up and running asap so that it gets warm and get the moving parts (pots & faders) moving. Yepp, i bought two new batteries and will install them next.👍
@@moneeo Your very welcome my friend. Recapping is not something ( in my humble opinion) will not do much for your sound quality unless most of the caps are bad and contrary to common belief that doesn't happen alot at all, if anything I would look at replacement opamps to bring the sound up to date but only if it really needs it. Recapping will not change the sound much at all but will be preventative maintenance. Remember this, if it ain't broken, then don't fix it. Good luck. The old copper tracks on the pcb will be a bit frail, the less soldering, the better
@@Joey-rp5vg Trying new op-amps sounds like an interesting project. I also read about someone adding input transformers which sounds like an interesting project for the future.
Hello, your videos are superb, well done! I also have a Soundtracs Jade 40 IN with the FX return, it needs maintenance for sure because they are not very young... One thing that has always helped me is DEOXIT, it's the only valid spay!! and without danger. There are some for contacts: DeoxIT D5S-6 and the other for the faders: DeoxIT 182 ml F5S-H6 Before changing the pots try with Deoxit it will definitely help you. You have to remove the slice and spray from the inside. Good luck ! Charly
Thanks Charly, it's so much fun documenting the process! 🙂 It's like you read my mind, i was just going to ask about the different spray for pots vs connectors. Think i will need both of them 👍
I would second that! I have worked on a few analog consoles with similar issues. This was my process, if you are able to remove the individual channel strips, first use 99% alcohol to clean out any dirt or residue on the boards using q tips. Then I would use Deoxit D5S-6 on all pots, every time you spray one pot, you turn it from left to right many times to make sure the Deoxit spreads in all contact parts. Lastly I would use Deoxit F5S-H6 on all faders to lubricate them but not before cleaning each channel thoroughy with 99% alcohol (it evaporates almost immediately making it safe for electronics). I personally, never had to replace any pots using this method. Deoxit also fixed the input signal level differences that you are currently having. You may still need to do some individual calibrating but I bet you that once you do this to every channel strip, you will notice that your levels are a lot more closer now. Have fun! Let us know if it worked. God bless
@@PaulGoodtimes Thanks for your tips, i think i will rethink my original plan to change the pots and instead try the Deoxit treatment that you and other have suggested. If it works it would save LOTS of time and money. We are so grateful to get support and tips from more experienced users like you, and we learn tons of new information from the posts on this channel - thanks!🙏❤