Nice work crafting the custom trays, and machining the swing arm axle spool.
@waynerichard8333Ай бұрын
Didn't your panniers have the third latch for securing to the rack? Did these get the same treatment?
@JDnBeastletАй бұрын
Luckily those were both intact, although I don't have the key and hear that these panniers have a reputation for self-detachment. I am considering supplementary methods of securing and locking them to the bike.
@Grunchy005Ай бұрын
Screw sizes: everything is M6 including the two #3 Phillips bolts inside. Those are M6x10mm long, I was able to replace them with M6x12 no problem. M6 screws use the 5mm allen key. The two screws that hold the cylinder to the case are M6x25mm long. The other screws are: M6x55 (top of case), M6x40, M6x45 (left & right side of shifter), M6x75 X3 (left side of slave cylinder, underneath slave cylinder, and right side of case). (The two bolts at top & right side of case I'm not sure of because my sprocket cover got destructed due to the chain breaking on the road & bashing out the top of the cover, so I'm actually missing those two bolts.)
@lee-dg9yh2 ай бұрын
Thank you for your effort in producing your video on spline lubes Unfortunately, I must comment so others don’t get misled by some of the items in it. As others have told you, after you posted your video, your splines are indeed severely worn!!! The splines at the final drive end should have the same shape as the splines at the transmission end. Because the snap ring at the transmission end does not allow the shaft to slide in and out on that end, there will be virtually no wear at that end. Virtually all wear will be at the final drive end. If you look at the still photo of the splines on the final drive end of the shaft before you start the video, you will see that each tooth of the spline looks like a very pointy mountain with a very large distinct step on one side. The tooth SHOULD look like a very symmetrical mountain with an almost 1/16” wide flat top. Any lack of symmetry on both sides or narrowness of the flat top is all wear. The large step on the driven side of each tooth indicates a very worn shaft. The narrowness of the peak indicates very little mileage left before the shaft strips completely out. The lube you used, even though it is what is recommended by Clymers and iirc at one point by BMW, has proven over the past 38 years by people who have put many hundreds of thousands of miles on early Kbikes (especially the 20 spline driveshafts that came on the ‘86 and later non paralever bikes) to be sorely lacking in performance. Early Flying Bricks require a good high pressure (unlike Optimol) grease high in molybdenum disululfide (above 50%) preferably with some tacky additive like provided by Wurth 3000 to prevent washout. A highly recommended spline lube is sold by Ted Porter’s Beemer Shop. I also belive the spline lube sold by Euromotoelectrics is a suitable lube. The amount of wear on your shaft might (or may not) indicate similar wear on the final drive input splines. Best option is to buy very good used replacements with little wear. PM me if you are having trouble finding good replacements. Most of what I see on Ebay are as bad as what yours are, even though the sellers say they are fine. Buyer beware! Another tip for those watching your video, never allow the swing arm to sag much more than where the shock allows it to travel. The boot between the swingarm and transmission could be as old as 40 years old and brittle. Excessive droop could tear it, adding $56 (as of this date) to the cost of your spline lube. I see you did put a jackstand under the swingarm, but it was after you had already allowed it to go to full droop while disconnecting the shock. A few other tips, either place a 2x8 or 2x10-12 board under the centerstand (if you are strong enough to get it on the centerstand with the board in place) or roll the rear tire up on a 2x and then place another 2x under centerstand, put it up on centerstand, then remove board from under rear tire. You will then be able to fully remove rear tire without removing rear license plate section of rear fender. Or you could just remove the license plate section of the rear fender to get tire out. Another tip, do not remove the rear shock at either end. After the final drive is disconnected from the swingarm, just slide it back and pivot it 90 degrees and let the shock support it while you remove the driveshaft. Don’t remove the speed sensor, just disconnect it at the connector by the coolant overflow bottle. What ever the method, relube the splines AT LEAST at EVERY rear tire change!!! New driveshafts are currently $750 from BMW and will only go up before they will be No Longer Available (NLA). Re lubing and inspecting the splines is cheap!
@JDnBeastlet2 ай бұрын
lee - thank you for the information as I was unaware. I have updated the description and will republish the video with corrections soon.
@03flhtcui2 ай бұрын
Excellent video. Job well done on your pannier repair job.
@ymendes7 ай бұрын
Very useful for the video you made. One question... does the manual recommend the use of RTV sealant on the joint seats ? Or was this procedure your choice?
@JDnBeastlet6 ай бұрын
Hi there, I followed the Clymer shop manual (www.amazon.ca/Suzuki-GSF1200-Bandit-96-03-Penton/dp/0892878002) as it had much more detail than the Suzuki one. In the section on Valve Clearance Measurement on page 74, steps 14 (a) and (b) specify the use of gasket sealer in the groove of the rubber grommet and the crankcase mating surfaces. I should really clean up the extra that's visible on the outside, though!
@samajier25667 ай бұрын
Nice
@midnightsolartrain14377 ай бұрын
Hi. I like the way how this is done. Great video. What is the milage on the bike?
@JDnBeastlet6 ай бұрын
Thanks! Just over 95,000 km on the clock now.
@williamfoster42687 ай бұрын
You don't have to remove the spark plugs or take the signal generator cover off. With the bike on it's center stand and in sixth gear you can just rotate the rear tire until you have the cams where you need them.
@Bandit199909 ай бұрын
Very helpful thanks, how are the wheels for moving around did you try them on the tarmac outside your garage? cheers.
@JDnBeastlet9 ай бұрын
I have not - I expect it would work there although with a bit more effort as our driveway surface is not as smooth as concrete. When I do get a chance to try it I'll let you know.
@williamfoster426810 ай бұрын
I have these on my Bandit 600, cheaper than buying a "new" used tank if you drop the bike. I got to find out how well they work when I decided to move the bike around in my hot garage wearing flip flops. The only thing to touch the ground when the bike is laying over now is the handle bar end, front tire and engine guard. TMK.
@williamfoster426810 ай бұрын
I hate vacuum petcocks, they always end up failing eventually. In the future you can replace the OEM petcock with a Yamaha 5KM-24500-10-00 or Chinese clone, direct fit bolt on and it has an extension (if you buy the Chinese clone, Yamaha makes you buy another part).
@rcpimp641911 ай бұрын
nice :)
@duanevoss11 ай бұрын
this is for helicopters VPP is variable pitch propeller i think and so while 3 controls throttle 7 controls the cyclic going up and down .you can disable it for planes if you dont need it by going into the function menu going to channel 7 VPP and deselect J3 (mode 2) and selecting nothing .If you are using channel 7 just reasign what you are using it for IE flaps ,gear etc
@robchisholm72 Жыл бұрын
Nice job!!
@JDnBeastlet Жыл бұрын
Thanks Bob!
@RestorationAustralia Жыл бұрын
very cool 😊
@ramjet4025 Жыл бұрын
Another very annoying video without an Audio. Not even text. Perhaps they don't speak english but the lack of text and or voice destroys this video
@glennrebillard3840 Жыл бұрын
Nice! They have the 1000 lbs one on sale right now for $500. I would get it and do the same mods you did, but I want it somewhat moveable but it's over 300 lbs. Have you considered putting casters on it? I just need a way to move it against the wall by myself when I'm not using it.
@JDnBeastlet Жыл бұрын
Hi Glenn, it does come with casters - steel wheels near the ramp and smaller steel casters at the front. The front ones can be disengaged by screwing down a pair of nearby lift posts, though I find it helps to put some old pieces of inner tube under the post feet to stop the lift from sliding when you're pushing a bike up the ramp. It's still awkward to move around but one person can do it- someday I will probably swap the steel wheels and casters for poly or thermoplastic. You can see a picture of the front at flic.kr/p/29WrsxQ
@glennrebillard3840 Жыл бұрын
@@JDnBeastlet Oh right, I missed that. Thanks! I also just checked the one on sale with 1000 lbs capacity, and it has the same casters. I guess I'll get it, but I have an 830 lbs Harley Road King, so I'll be close to it's capacity. I imagine it might be a little scary with such a heavy bike. I wonder if they made changes to now list it as 1000 lbs? I'll be doing some mods like you. If you don't think it can handle such a large bike, please let me know. Thanks again!
@JDnBeastlet Жыл бұрын
@@glennrebillard3840 I think you should be fine. If you are concerned, you should always use the safety lock. I ALMOST always do...!
@volymard2 жыл бұрын
I am really struggling getting the clutch back up on mine. The master cylinder has pressure and new seals. The slave doesn't seem to have any effect on the clutch at all, the piston doesn't come back in, but keeps accepting pressure until the piston seal just gives. Can't see whether it's exerting any pressure on the push rod. Doesn't seem to be. &#$@ these crappy little hydraulic clutches, they suck
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
Hey Matt, sorry to hear you're having trouble. Is there any chance that you have the slave cylinder piston seal installed backwards?
@volymard2 жыл бұрын
Hey thanks for your time, It's a second hand slave so it may just be worn? I will sure check that, It's been doing my head in a while now, lol I hear the liner on the hose can sometimes obstruct, but it seems clear. I put new seals in the master cylinder that's good as. The metal retainer on the piston is a bit rooted. But it should be stopped, by the clutch pushrod and it's not going back into the cylinder when the clutch is released, instead it keeps on coming until it pops. I have had the clutch housing in bits, but I've checked it three times it's in the right order Ah well keep plugging away try a slave cylinder rebuild I guess
@champ88992 жыл бұрын
And your communication is ultra......without the rush shit that many manifest in this fucky age of computators and horse shit!!
@champ88992 жыл бұрын
Your help is much appreciated.You are a fine example of a very special sort!
@kadenreeves42372 жыл бұрын
Video does not help in 2022
@PTRRanger951 Жыл бұрын
Yeah it does. But it only work if you have a shifter, just like he has. I can’t get my real auto to work since it wants something that latches. As soon as you let go of a key, it goes back to neutral.
@34DUB Жыл бұрын
@@PTRRanger951 same thats is whats happening to me
@watermain482 жыл бұрын
Between the lack of explanation of what you are doing and the really irritating music I found this video basically unwatchable.
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback, Bill. It's early days of video making for me and your comments are noted.
@keatonpeterson91762 жыл бұрын
I think I'm going to call a locksmith...
@rossi6754462 жыл бұрын
Such a great and informative video 2 things where can I get a manual like that for my 2007 1200s bandit and where did you buy the mityvac from please
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
Peter, thanks for the kind words. The manual is a Clymer covering the Bandit 1200 from 1996 to 2003, and very well written in my opinion. It came with the bike so I don't know the source; I would suggest checking with your local motorcycle shops and online. I think I got the Mityvac at my local UAP/NAPA auto parts store, but I see amazon has it as well.
@Gastel2 жыл бұрын
Awesome. Well done.
@banditrider6132 жыл бұрын
what manual are you using as it looks very good ,
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
I have a digital version of the factory manual and a Clymer, which is where the images are from. I've had lots of Haynes manuals before and I find the Clymer to be a step up.
@robbateman79872 жыл бұрын
Please note that the spindle is inserted from the RH side of the bike and make sure if you do swap it round you get the chain adjuster block on the correct sides. A lot easier to do chain adjustment this way. Also make sure that sprocket carrier spacer is not damaged it has been know for it to burr up and you cannot tighten the wheel enough (Mk1 only). Those cush drive rubbers did not look right, i did my chain and sprockets on the Mk 2 Bandit at 27000 miles and again at 60000 and they looked good and where a resistance fit. Did the hub bearings and wheel bearings at 60000 also while the wheel was out. I find it a good time to do the suspension linklage bearings too when the wheel come out. Regards Rob UK
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback, Rob. The axle nut on the RHS - that's the way the bike was when I got it, and I did notice in the reference materials that it was supposed to be the other way round. So I "un-"reversed it - even made a video* - only to discover later that I liked it better the way it was. You can watch the video if you like, but the meat is in the comments: "Why did I do this? With the nut on the right side, the muffler is in the way of taking it off. Also, I figured Suzuki put it in a certain way for a reason. What did I find out later? So you've adjusted the chain tension and it's just right, and properly aligned too. But wait - when the nut is on the left side, tightening it moves the axle back ever so slightly, which tensions the chain further, AND throws off the alignment. When it's on the right, tightening the nut keeps the axle in place against the adjuster. And because I use a chain alignment tool (fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-cha...) that sights along the top of the chain, I remove the fender/chain guard unit when adjusting the chain, and THAT is a lot easier with the muffler removed. Which is half of the reason I un-reversed the axle in the first place." *kzread.info/dash/bejne/gmWotbCPmqu-aNY.html
@fattymcgee1232 жыл бұрын
That bolt map is awesome. The thing only people who have done it long enough think about. Pure simple genius idea.
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the kind words. I'm sure I picked it up from someone else but it really beats laying them on the bench and forgetting what goes where. I've had the sprocket cover off four times now and that piece of cardboard owes me nothing. :)
@fattymcgee1232 жыл бұрын
Great video John, thanks
@wendyjolliffe17333 жыл бұрын
This is AWESOME!
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Wendy!
@sinsooty62903 жыл бұрын
What music is this John? I'm saving your video as my ignition is a bastard to turn the key more often than not. So will be replacing it soon. Drilling metal while wearing sandals 😂
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
I can't remember what the track is called... It came with the video editor I used. Hope the video helps!
@Paper4523 жыл бұрын
Very useful video, watching this got me the Karma to find my key though... Thank god
@jasongrozier82773 жыл бұрын
Ive just got my hands on a 98 bandit 1200 and i have this exact problem lol, shall be stripping it today as its very sloppy and was mentioned on last mot cert
@kubconpl3 жыл бұрын
will this fit in to bandit 600 mk1?
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
I have no way of knowing, but don't the 600s have a cable actuated clutch?
@kubconpl3 жыл бұрын
@@JDnBeastlet 600 have cable but im thinking to change
@acutabove_woodworkings3 жыл бұрын
Nicely done John. This is one of the most useful tool modifications that I have ever done and I only wish I had done it sooner. I'm glad that you were able to get yours completed and now, you can stop busting your knuckles on you drill press auxiliary fence. Thanks for the shout out and for posting the links.
@hoomanpictures3 жыл бұрын
Hi, great video, I had the same problem even after replacement of the rubber seal, the problem was that i installed the rubber with the slot outside, the same as in your picture, the slot has to be in the inner spring side. best regard from Hamburg
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the information!
@MrDN813 жыл бұрын
I was wondering about that too, if you put the seal in like in the picture, the fluid can go past it and it will leak again. The open side of the seal should be facing the bottom of the bore, right?
@hoomanpictures3 жыл бұрын
@@MrDN81 exactly, this is really important. best regards
@elsierest54853 жыл бұрын
WOW! That was amazing! Hard to believe that was all made from lego!
@LeeroyBJJ3 жыл бұрын
Did you have any issues with a non standard ignition? A lot of them do not have a resister and cause no spark.
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
No issues with this one.
@AndyManCam3 жыл бұрын
Very comprehensive! Nicely done. Bandit 1200 owners can consider themselves well demonstrated! Glad the kit finally came back into stock for you John. Happy tankbagging!
@carlosgooglemaps943 жыл бұрын
You had the top yoke out and didn’t paint it??, what a sloppy moron (in a friendly way) 🤣
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
You've got me there. I cleaned it up as best I could but repainting it didn't even occur to me. Next time. :P
@carlosgooglemaps943 жыл бұрын
John Rest , all right mate, good job anyway!!👍🏻✊🏻
@MariuszZaleski133 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. I found out there is two diameters of the seal. 37mm and 40mm. They look quite similar. I bought 40mm for GSF1200 Bandit 01-05 and it doesn't fit to MK1 1200 from 1996. I couldn't figure how you managed to fit it so easily and I couldn't. I guess a thing to be aware of when looking for seal replacement.
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
That's really good to know... Thanks!
@knightsway1004 жыл бұрын
My brother and I replaced the ignition switch on my B12n. Took less than a hour. We done it through the headlight. The screws holding the switch in were bloody tight. I used a five inch ratchet that has a quarter drive one end and a hex for screw driver bits the other end.
@wilfrex50194 жыл бұрын
amazing video, im rebuilding an 98 1200 and I wasn't sure how to deal with the clutch release, I thought I had parts missing now I know everything is there.
@JDnBeastlet4 жыл бұрын
I glad you found it helpful. Good luck with the project!
@derekbell22984 жыл бұрын
Useful video. Thank you. I have just bought a replacement set for my Bandit 600S, but, on reflection, I think I will just persevere rather than face the hassle. It may have been smarter to have watched your video first.
@JDnBeastlet4 жыл бұрын
Once you know about the red thread lock it's not so bad. It's just time consuming taking everything apart and putting it all back together again.
@olafjensen45085 жыл бұрын
I,ve got to do my B6. Oh fun and games. Job never goes smooth does it
@JDnBeastlet5 жыл бұрын
No repair plan survives contact with the motorcycle. Let us know how your job goes.
@Moonfleet415 жыл бұрын
What a wonderful video, almost like an online service manual, lots of clear images and great narrative... you could follow this easily and get the job done.. congratulations on your channel and getting underway... we wish you many happy videos to come!
@JDnBeastlet5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the kind words, my friend. Your channel has helped me in immeasurable ways.
@tejastalole3075 жыл бұрын
Very nice job
@tejastalole3075 жыл бұрын
E3
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
Thanks!
@ashbee20536 жыл бұрын
The video was great...what was the bent tool called? (I couldn't find it at the autoparts store or the hardware store.) Thanks so much for sharing.
@JDnBeastlet6 жыл бұрын
I wish I knew... It was one of my Dad's tools, made by Craftsman. I think it was for meant for disengaging springs originally. It was just what I had on hand, but any number of tools could be made to work.
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
I have since found the tool... it's called a cotter key extractor. There's a link in the description.
Пікірлер
Nice work crafting the custom trays, and machining the swing arm axle spool.
Didn't your panniers have the third latch for securing to the rack? Did these get the same treatment?
Luckily those were both intact, although I don't have the key and hear that these panniers have a reputation for self-detachment. I am considering supplementary methods of securing and locking them to the bike.
Screw sizes: everything is M6 including the two #3 Phillips bolts inside. Those are M6x10mm long, I was able to replace them with M6x12 no problem. M6 screws use the 5mm allen key. The two screws that hold the cylinder to the case are M6x25mm long. The other screws are: M6x55 (top of case), M6x40, M6x45 (left & right side of shifter), M6x75 X3 (left side of slave cylinder, underneath slave cylinder, and right side of case). (The two bolts at top & right side of case I'm not sure of because my sprocket cover got destructed due to the chain breaking on the road & bashing out the top of the cover, so I'm actually missing those two bolts.)
Thank you for your effort in producing your video on spline lubes Unfortunately, I must comment so others don’t get misled by some of the items in it. As others have told you, after you posted your video, your splines are indeed severely worn!!! The splines at the final drive end should have the same shape as the splines at the transmission end. Because the snap ring at the transmission end does not allow the shaft to slide in and out on that end, there will be virtually no wear at that end. Virtually all wear will be at the final drive end. If you look at the still photo of the splines on the final drive end of the shaft before you start the video, you will see that each tooth of the spline looks like a very pointy mountain with a very large distinct step on one side. The tooth SHOULD look like a very symmetrical mountain with an almost 1/16” wide flat top. Any lack of symmetry on both sides or narrowness of the flat top is all wear. The large step on the driven side of each tooth indicates a very worn shaft. The narrowness of the peak indicates very little mileage left before the shaft strips completely out. The lube you used, even though it is what is recommended by Clymers and iirc at one point by BMW, has proven over the past 38 years by people who have put many hundreds of thousands of miles on early Kbikes (especially the 20 spline driveshafts that came on the ‘86 and later non paralever bikes) to be sorely lacking in performance. Early Flying Bricks require a good high pressure (unlike Optimol) grease high in molybdenum disululfide (above 50%) preferably with some tacky additive like provided by Wurth 3000 to prevent washout. A highly recommended spline lube is sold by Ted Porter’s Beemer Shop. I also belive the spline lube sold by Euromotoelectrics is a suitable lube. The amount of wear on your shaft might (or may not) indicate similar wear on the final drive input splines. Best option is to buy very good used replacements with little wear. PM me if you are having trouble finding good replacements. Most of what I see on Ebay are as bad as what yours are, even though the sellers say they are fine. Buyer beware! Another tip for those watching your video, never allow the swing arm to sag much more than where the shock allows it to travel. The boot between the swingarm and transmission could be as old as 40 years old and brittle. Excessive droop could tear it, adding $56 (as of this date) to the cost of your spline lube. I see you did put a jackstand under the swingarm, but it was after you had already allowed it to go to full droop while disconnecting the shock. A few other tips, either place a 2x8 or 2x10-12 board under the centerstand (if you are strong enough to get it on the centerstand with the board in place) or roll the rear tire up on a 2x and then place another 2x under centerstand, put it up on centerstand, then remove board from under rear tire. You will then be able to fully remove rear tire without removing rear license plate section of rear fender. Or you could just remove the license plate section of the rear fender to get tire out. Another tip, do not remove the rear shock at either end. After the final drive is disconnected from the swingarm, just slide it back and pivot it 90 degrees and let the shock support it while you remove the driveshaft. Don’t remove the speed sensor, just disconnect it at the connector by the coolant overflow bottle. What ever the method, relube the splines AT LEAST at EVERY rear tire change!!! New driveshafts are currently $750 from BMW and will only go up before they will be No Longer Available (NLA). Re lubing and inspecting the splines is cheap!
lee - thank you for the information as I was unaware. I have updated the description and will republish the video with corrections soon.
Excellent video. Job well done on your pannier repair job.
Very useful for the video you made. One question... does the manual recommend the use of RTV sealant on the joint seats ? Or was this procedure your choice?
Hi there, I followed the Clymer shop manual (www.amazon.ca/Suzuki-GSF1200-Bandit-96-03-Penton/dp/0892878002) as it had much more detail than the Suzuki one. In the section on Valve Clearance Measurement on page 74, steps 14 (a) and (b) specify the use of gasket sealer in the groove of the rubber grommet and the crankcase mating surfaces. I should really clean up the extra that's visible on the outside, though!
Nice
Hi. I like the way how this is done. Great video. What is the milage on the bike?
Thanks! Just over 95,000 km on the clock now.
You don't have to remove the spark plugs or take the signal generator cover off. With the bike on it's center stand and in sixth gear you can just rotate the rear tire until you have the cams where you need them.
Very helpful thanks, how are the wheels for moving around did you try them on the tarmac outside your garage? cheers.
I have not - I expect it would work there although with a bit more effort as our driveway surface is not as smooth as concrete. When I do get a chance to try it I'll let you know.
I have these on my Bandit 600, cheaper than buying a "new" used tank if you drop the bike. I got to find out how well they work when I decided to move the bike around in my hot garage wearing flip flops. The only thing to touch the ground when the bike is laying over now is the handle bar end, front tire and engine guard. TMK.
I hate vacuum petcocks, they always end up failing eventually. In the future you can replace the OEM petcock with a Yamaha 5KM-24500-10-00 or Chinese clone, direct fit bolt on and it has an extension (if you buy the Chinese clone, Yamaha makes you buy another part).
nice :)
this is for helicopters VPP is variable pitch propeller i think and so while 3 controls throttle 7 controls the cyclic going up and down .you can disable it for planes if you dont need it by going into the function menu going to channel 7 VPP and deselect J3 (mode 2) and selecting nothing .If you are using channel 7 just reasign what you are using it for IE flaps ,gear etc
Nice job!!
Thanks Bob!
very cool 😊
Another very annoying video without an Audio. Not even text. Perhaps they don't speak english but the lack of text and or voice destroys this video
Nice! They have the 1000 lbs one on sale right now for $500. I would get it and do the same mods you did, but I want it somewhat moveable but it's over 300 lbs. Have you considered putting casters on it? I just need a way to move it against the wall by myself when I'm not using it.
Hi Glenn, it does come with casters - steel wheels near the ramp and smaller steel casters at the front. The front ones can be disengaged by screwing down a pair of nearby lift posts, though I find it helps to put some old pieces of inner tube under the post feet to stop the lift from sliding when you're pushing a bike up the ramp. It's still awkward to move around but one person can do it- someday I will probably swap the steel wheels and casters for poly or thermoplastic. You can see a picture of the front at flic.kr/p/29WrsxQ
@@JDnBeastlet Oh right, I missed that. Thanks! I also just checked the one on sale with 1000 lbs capacity, and it has the same casters. I guess I'll get it, but I have an 830 lbs Harley Road King, so I'll be close to it's capacity. I imagine it might be a little scary with such a heavy bike. I wonder if they made changes to now list it as 1000 lbs? I'll be doing some mods like you. If you don't think it can handle such a large bike, please let me know. Thanks again!
@@glennrebillard3840 I think you should be fine. If you are concerned, you should always use the safety lock. I ALMOST always do...!
I am really struggling getting the clutch back up on mine. The master cylinder has pressure and new seals. The slave doesn't seem to have any effect on the clutch at all, the piston doesn't come back in, but keeps accepting pressure until the piston seal just gives. Can't see whether it's exerting any pressure on the push rod. Doesn't seem to be. &#$@ these crappy little hydraulic clutches, they suck
Hey Matt, sorry to hear you're having trouble. Is there any chance that you have the slave cylinder piston seal installed backwards?
Hey thanks for your time, It's a second hand slave so it may just be worn? I will sure check that, It's been doing my head in a while now, lol I hear the liner on the hose can sometimes obstruct, but it seems clear. I put new seals in the master cylinder that's good as. The metal retainer on the piston is a bit rooted. But it should be stopped, by the clutch pushrod and it's not going back into the cylinder when the clutch is released, instead it keeps on coming until it pops. I have had the clutch housing in bits, but I've checked it three times it's in the right order Ah well keep plugging away try a slave cylinder rebuild I guess
And your communication is ultra......without the rush shit that many manifest in this fucky age of computators and horse shit!!
Your help is much appreciated.You are a fine example of a very special sort!
Video does not help in 2022
Yeah it does. But it only work if you have a shifter, just like he has. I can’t get my real auto to work since it wants something that latches. As soon as you let go of a key, it goes back to neutral.
@@PTRRanger951 same thats is whats happening to me
Between the lack of explanation of what you are doing and the really irritating music I found this video basically unwatchable.
Thanks for the feedback, Bill. It's early days of video making for me and your comments are noted.
I think I'm going to call a locksmith...
Such a great and informative video 2 things where can I get a manual like that for my 2007 1200s bandit and where did you buy the mityvac from please
Peter, thanks for the kind words. The manual is a Clymer covering the Bandit 1200 from 1996 to 2003, and very well written in my opinion. It came with the bike so I don't know the source; I would suggest checking with your local motorcycle shops and online. I think I got the Mityvac at my local UAP/NAPA auto parts store, but I see amazon has it as well.
Awesome. Well done.
what manual are you using as it looks very good ,
I have a digital version of the factory manual and a Clymer, which is where the images are from. I've had lots of Haynes manuals before and I find the Clymer to be a step up.
Please note that the spindle is inserted from the RH side of the bike and make sure if you do swap it round you get the chain adjuster block on the correct sides. A lot easier to do chain adjustment this way. Also make sure that sprocket carrier spacer is not damaged it has been know for it to burr up and you cannot tighten the wheel enough (Mk1 only). Those cush drive rubbers did not look right, i did my chain and sprockets on the Mk 2 Bandit at 27000 miles and again at 60000 and they looked good and where a resistance fit. Did the hub bearings and wheel bearings at 60000 also while the wheel was out. I find it a good time to do the suspension linklage bearings too when the wheel come out. Regards Rob UK
Thanks for the feedback, Rob. The axle nut on the RHS - that's the way the bike was when I got it, and I did notice in the reference materials that it was supposed to be the other way round. So I "un-"reversed it - even made a video* - only to discover later that I liked it better the way it was. You can watch the video if you like, but the meat is in the comments: "Why did I do this? With the nut on the right side, the muffler is in the way of taking it off. Also, I figured Suzuki put it in a certain way for a reason. What did I find out later? So you've adjusted the chain tension and it's just right, and properly aligned too. But wait - when the nut is on the left side, tightening it moves the axle back ever so slightly, which tensions the chain further, AND throws off the alignment. When it's on the right, tightening the nut keeps the axle in place against the adjuster. And because I use a chain alignment tool (fortnine.ca/en/motion-pro-cha...) that sights along the top of the chain, I remove the fender/chain guard unit when adjusting the chain, and THAT is a lot easier with the muffler removed. Which is half of the reason I un-reversed the axle in the first place." *kzread.info/dash/bejne/gmWotbCPmqu-aNY.html
That bolt map is awesome. The thing only people who have done it long enough think about. Pure simple genius idea.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm sure I picked it up from someone else but it really beats laying them on the bench and forgetting what goes where. I've had the sprocket cover off four times now and that piece of cardboard owes me nothing. :)
Great video John, thanks
This is AWESOME!
Thanks Wendy!
What music is this John? I'm saving your video as my ignition is a bastard to turn the key more often than not. So will be replacing it soon. Drilling metal while wearing sandals 😂
I can't remember what the track is called... It came with the video editor I used. Hope the video helps!
Very useful video, watching this got me the Karma to find my key though... Thank god
Ive just got my hands on a 98 bandit 1200 and i have this exact problem lol, shall be stripping it today as its very sloppy and was mentioned on last mot cert
will this fit in to bandit 600 mk1?
I have no way of knowing, but don't the 600s have a cable actuated clutch?
@@JDnBeastlet 600 have cable but im thinking to change
Nicely done John. This is one of the most useful tool modifications that I have ever done and I only wish I had done it sooner. I'm glad that you were able to get yours completed and now, you can stop busting your knuckles on you drill press auxiliary fence. Thanks for the shout out and for posting the links.
Hi, great video, I had the same problem even after replacement of the rubber seal, the problem was that i installed the rubber with the slot outside, the same as in your picture, the slot has to be in the inner spring side. best regard from Hamburg
Thanks for the information!
I was wondering about that too, if you put the seal in like in the picture, the fluid can go past it and it will leak again. The open side of the seal should be facing the bottom of the bore, right?
@@MrDN81 exactly, this is really important. best regards
WOW! That was amazing! Hard to believe that was all made from lego!
Did you have any issues with a non standard ignition? A lot of them do not have a resister and cause no spark.
No issues with this one.
Very comprehensive! Nicely done. Bandit 1200 owners can consider themselves well demonstrated! Glad the kit finally came back into stock for you John. Happy tankbagging!
You had the top yoke out and didn’t paint it??, what a sloppy moron (in a friendly way) 🤣
You've got me there. I cleaned it up as best I could but repainting it didn't even occur to me. Next time. :P
John Rest , all right mate, good job anyway!!👍🏻✊🏻
Thanks for the video. I found out there is two diameters of the seal. 37mm and 40mm. They look quite similar. I bought 40mm for GSF1200 Bandit 01-05 and it doesn't fit to MK1 1200 from 1996. I couldn't figure how you managed to fit it so easily and I couldn't. I guess a thing to be aware of when looking for seal replacement.
That's really good to know... Thanks!
My brother and I replaced the ignition switch on my B12n. Took less than a hour. We done it through the headlight. The screws holding the switch in were bloody tight. I used a five inch ratchet that has a quarter drive one end and a hex for screw driver bits the other end.
amazing video, im rebuilding an 98 1200 and I wasn't sure how to deal with the clutch release, I thought I had parts missing now I know everything is there.
I glad you found it helpful. Good luck with the project!
Useful video. Thank you. I have just bought a replacement set for my Bandit 600S, but, on reflection, I think I will just persevere rather than face the hassle. It may have been smarter to have watched your video first.
Once you know about the red thread lock it's not so bad. It's just time consuming taking everything apart and putting it all back together again.
I,ve got to do my B6. Oh fun and games. Job never goes smooth does it
No repair plan survives contact with the motorcycle. Let us know how your job goes.
What a wonderful video, almost like an online service manual, lots of clear images and great narrative... you could follow this easily and get the job done.. congratulations on your channel and getting underway... we wish you many happy videos to come!
Thank you for the kind words, my friend. Your channel has helped me in immeasurable ways.
Very nice job
E3
Thanks!
The video was great...what was the bent tool called? (I couldn't find it at the autoparts store or the hardware store.) Thanks so much for sharing.
I wish I knew... It was one of my Dad's tools, made by Craftsman. I think it was for meant for disengaging springs originally. It was just what I had on hand, but any number of tools could be made to work.
I have since found the tool... it's called a cotter key extractor. There's a link in the description.