My name is Cameron, and I build things and make videos about it. Every build is an adventure and has a story behind it. So on this channel, I'm going to take you on that journey in every video, share the knowledge I've gained along the way, and hopefully make you smile with a little humor and the occasional dad joke.
#1290053
Пікірлер
Will this work if the wood has already been varnished?
It probably will not work because at that point the pores have been closed up and the wood is not going to take in much moisture when you place it on the wet towel.
I've seen this basic design a couple times now, and I think it looks attractive, but I don't understand the beveled underside of the support on the ends. It looks good, but there have been times when I've wanted to use a clamp to hold a piece that has been resting across my sawhorses, and having the beveled underside makes it much harder than if it were square.
Yeah in hindsight I agree that it might be more practical for clamping to leave off that detail, or make them shorter like a 45 to keep the aesthetic but leave a lot more meat at the end to clamp to. I tend not to use sawhorses for things needing to be clamped so they’re working fine for me but I’d say customize them for your purposes for sure. Thanks for watching!
Great way for me to get started- super clear instructions
Thanks! So glad it helped!
Is that method work with thicker tops, like 30mm? And are we sure that this thing will not bend again?
The idea is to get it to lay flat again on its own and then secure it in place to the base before it can move again. Since attaching panels to a base (in case of a top) is usually one of the last things you do during assembly, Id also suggest that the next thing is to get it into a climate controlled environment where the humidity will also change less than in a non-controlled shop. If you do those things, the combination of those elements will probably keep it flat even if its tendency would be to move again. As for the thickness, I just did this again with a top that was over 30mm and it worked great. Just takes longer.
Man!tha was extremly usefull!well done bro!
Did it work for you?
Going to try this with a table I accidentally cupped.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
So excited to try this, making a father's day gift and of course out of all of the wood we have the perfect piece for my project is cupped. Thank you for the advice!!
Very cool you’re making something for Fathers Day. I hope it works well for you!
When marking I like to indicate which should be cut on the tight setting or medium setting. Also if I'm doing an offset domino I'll mark depths too. It's easy for me to forget to check all my settings before starting a cut, so visual reminders are a big help.
I 100% agree. What marks we use is far less important than just developing a workflow for making those decisions and checkpoints prior to drilling. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Question tho… when the wood becomes dry again wouldn’t it reverse to its old curvy shape?
If it was allowed to dry evenly on a flat set of stickers, it will not necessarily return to its cupped form. Keep in mind the scenario I’m suggesting this method for is specifically when the panel was prevented from experiencing air flow evenly on both sides. That is the condition that encourages cupping toward one side. I don’t suggest this method will work for every case but in mine, the top panel is still fairly flat.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking Thanks a lot! I was also curious if this works for curving the panel in both x and y axons but I guess it has to do with the wood grain. I will try it myself soon. Cheers!
Very well done video. Subscribed. You put much effort into your videos. Bravo.
Thank you! I’m really enjoying it and looking forward to doing more.
1:00 😂😂
Haha. Thanks. Worked hard on that performance.
Fantastic video, thank you!
Thanks for watching!
does this work when the sagging is due to the gravity? i made a table with improper support, i'm hoping to fix it but the tabletop is a bit sagged in the middle.
It’s possible but in general I’d say this method is for unfinished panels. When we apply oils, paints, or varnishes to wood, it fills the pores in the wood making it less likely that wetting down the material will allow it to flatten back out.
@@sturdyboneswoodworking oh yeah! it's unfinished wood, i forgot to mention :)
It turned out very nice, but is this valid for an oiled and finished table because oil will not absorb water, how can we do it then?
I think it would not work as well. It would depend on what sort of oil was used and whether it had fully cured. This method depends on the woods tendency to cup toward the dry side so it’s encouraging the convex side to be the dry side and not allowing the concave to dry as quickly. If the oil has totally sealed the wood grain such that no moisture can move through the surface, it may not work.
I like
Thanks!
Cool
Thanks!
Will this method work with a large slab?
Most likely this will not work on a large slab. For one you’d have to get it much wetter than just a damp towel. Second, if you were able to get the fibers wet enough to relax in a big thick slab, you would have to have a plan to clamp it flat and allow air to flow around it until it dried evenly, and even then, it might return to its cupped or warped shape. For large slabs the best way to get them flat, assuming they’re rough and have enough thickness, is to flatten it with a router sled and spoil bit.
will it not just return to being warped once its dry again?
It could still move again but chances are if it was originally flat and only moved due to unequal drying rates on different sides, it may stay fairly flat. My coffee table top was allowed to dry evenly and was then attached to the base with Z-clips and it is still pretty flat now.
I have a 132x32mm plank that is kinda warped on both sides at opposite ends. Do you reckon wrapping it completely in a wet towel would even it out?
Will this work with MDF?
I’m afraid not. MDF would swell up and likely never return to its original thickness when exposed to that much water. I don’t recommend it.
Grüß dich Cameron, just found your channel and watched the first video! Awesome work, unique style so I'm proud to be your 3760th subscriber. Definitely will watch your other videos soon too! Best of luck and success with your channel Your new fan Garagen Gio from Germany
Thank you so much my friend!
Thx for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you Sir.🎉
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
1:45 You only need 3 points to create a plane... 4 points will actually cause them to rock if placed on an uneven surface.
Yes you’re right. But four will help. If we were to leave it as 2 flat spots rather than cutting away the middle of the foot it would be way worse.
Great video! Loved the editing and overall flow! I’ll be looking forward to future videos
Thanks Jason!! Appreciate you checking out the channel!
Your thumbnails drew me in. You definitely have an artist’s sensibility!
Wow thanks so much!
A great argument for the use of sawhorses and a great guide to building some beefy sawhorses 💪
Thank you so much!
I think some people are missing the point. Sawhorses can be used for a make shift table if ones not availble, or if your work is not in need of a huge table. Just fepends on what your doing.
Thanks. I think so. The title might be a bit controversial sounding because of course big workbenches and assembly tables are awesome. But you definitely could get by with sawhorses with plywood on top for a while if you’re just getting started woodworking. Thanks for watching!
Good thing you have that pick up truck.. those boards almost fit inside... Those trucks are so dumb these days.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Ok... Cool, but this is entirely out of reach for a beginner. If you want to make something beginner friendly, you're going to have to skip the jointer and planer. Even the dado.
Fair point. For what it’s worth, I include a section in the plans that covers alternative methods for cutting mortises and tenons, as well as ideas for materials such as the 4x4s I mentioned in the video, which would not require any milling, but would be rougher. I’ll keep this in mind, though, next time I make a video aimed at beginners.
How does four points of contact prevent rocking on an uneven surface? I would think that you would need three.
Three would be best. But if you just leave the two flat feet, they’ll rock really badly if the contact with the floor is in the middle of the foot. So at least reducing that surface area helps some.
Didn't even watch the video but I disagree I need the biggest workbench, sorry homie
lol. Well thanks anyway for the comment. Cheers!
Same. Saw horses are phenomenal but if you are a woodworker, you definitely need a good (not small or light) workbench. His title is foolish and negates what his video is actually about.
He does his narrating at the solid workbench you both want. He mentions using sawhorses for specific purposes to expand its usefulness without being massive.
Well if you'd watch the video you'd know why you anyway need them ; )
Question for you sir. I see you are using a Forester II Saw blade. How long have you had it? Do you clean it often, to remove the sap. I would also like to ask if and when you would get it resharpened? I am asking as I am not sure if or when I should get my blade sharpened. I have cleaned it and that helped a lot. So just checking thanks.
I am using a Forrester II. I need to clean it more often than I do. lol. Probably about every other project, depending on the wood species I’ve used. I haven’t had this one sharpened yet but I’ve noticed a couple teeth that definitely need it. Cleaning it definitely goes a long way. I’ve heard there are great services that let you mail off your blade and ship it back nice and sharp but still need to identify a good one to recommend.
Found you from your sawhorse video (yes, I did the sawhorse puzzle) and so far your videos look awesome. Look forward to what you make!
Thanks so much for watching and subscribing! I hope you enjoy those plans, too!
Best work bench ever is modified pallet racking, with two pieces of plywood for the top. It’s rock solid, fairly cheap, easily adaptable, not too heavy and gets the job done!
Sounds like a pretty good idea. Thanks for watching!
IMHO you need the dowels like I need a hole in the head. Better if you offset the holes by 1/4 their diameter and taper the dowl, then use it to pull the joint tight. Otherwise save the effort the glue is stronger than the wood.
Haha. Yeah I considered drawbored dowels but felt like these only needed a little reinforcement. But you’re right it’s probably not necessary since it’s unlikely these would be subjected to much racking force. Thanks for watching!
It’s not that mystical. The name comes from the shape of the frame, which resembles a horse. Source: Wikipedia.
Thank you. And so glad you enjoyed my jokes. 😁
This are the European style saw horses. Used them a lot when I was over there. Never used any where the joints weren’t sprung so they moved a bit but worked. Saw horses come from when they had small houses and the table was a board or boards that were put up against the wall, horses nested and chairs hung on the wall when not in use. They may be called saw horses because they used them to rip lumber with a handsaw and could saw without obstacles.
Cool! Thanks for watching!
I played your game. I enjoyed it too. You also got me to watch your video twice, and pause it a few times, and I liked, subscribed, and commented.
Thank you so much! I hope you enjoy the plans! Thanks for the subscribe and like!
Three thoughts: 1. The dramatized sobbing at 15:19 cracked me up. 2. I agree, it was ugly and the final product was better, beautiful really. I think this has to do with the direction of the bevel on the natural edge, which made it look heavy. Reversed, as in the final table, it looks lighter, more in line with the floating design. 3. Why do you bad mouth red oak? A suggestion for the bottom would be to ebonize the red oak with iron, instead of staining. This can look quite spectacular, and be quite black while still maintaining a clear sense of grain. Can be done with red oak and rusty nail water, or you can be more precise and get deeper black by combining a tannic acid pre-wash with a ferric chloride solution stain. You can fine tune the concentration of those two to fine tune the outcome.
Thanks so much for watching and for your thoughts on #1-2! I think you’re right about the direction of the live edge. As for red oak, I’m mostly joking but generally I just don’t like the pinkish color. It’s a fine wood to work with, but there are more enjoyable species in my opinion, and if I’m going to be inclined to alter the color, I’d generally rather pass and use something that’ll just look good with a clear finish. I’ve experimented with ebonization and tannic pre-wash before and it’s a lot of fun. Should probably mess with it more. Thanks again!!
Fantastic end results. Love the under bevels and floating top design !!
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed the video!
Beautiful table!
Thanks so much!
I can’t find the missing piece to make link work either. Watched 5 times but I’m also a little distracted. I don’t have instagram. Can I send a Pm on some other app?
My Facebook page should let you DM me as well. Or my website has a contact form that will email me. Thanks for playing! Website is sturdyboneswoodworking.com
For those who say the game doesn't work, it certainly does. I missed the 2nd cupnfist time through. Got the rest ok though. Thank you for the free plans very detailed. Can these be made using a circular saw and/or Jigsaw as well. I'm new to this, and I'm 70 now, starting to feel it big time. Really do appreciate it.
I think you might have some trouble cutting the tenons with a circular saw but if you’re able to clamp them upright you shouldn’t have too much trouble cutting them with a hand saw. Same for the angles on the feet and top rail - I’d use a hand saw there as well. Circular saw will be best for cutting parts to rough length. Thanks for watching!
@sturdyboneswoodworking thank you for the reply. I do have hand saws, and I will give that a go.
First off this look like fine furniture and not simple work holding. Very well done. But I have a few questions: why not cut the mortise before the initial glue up? Why glue in the top when it could easily be damaged by your sawing work? (This also could make for swappable tops and jigs) Why not offset the dowel holes in the mortise and tenon so you can get a tension hold between the pieces and not have to rely on the glue?
Thank you! Yeah I tend to make everything a bit finer than necessary. Haha. I really like all your suggestions and think they would make these way more practical. Draw bored dowels would definitely work great and allow for swapping out the top of it got damaged over time. One thing I might do with mine is just bolt or screw on a piece of MDF to the top as a replaceable spoil board. And yes, cutting a wide dado in each side of the parts before glue up could be a faster way to get those done as well, especially with a miter saw trench feature, for those without a dado stack or table saw. Thanks for watching and for your thoughts!
My english is bad and i watch this video with audio translation but your joke is cool.
Thanks so much for watching! Glad I could make you smile.
As someone who spent last weekend on my back patio making a coffee tabletop from an old 2x10 that was in my garage and some used hairpin legs my wife found for cheap, something like this or an actual workbench seems like a must to keep my back from getting worse.
I love that. I started on my back patio making furniture too. Well I hope you enjoy the plans and let me know if you have questions!
Awesome. Greatly enjoyed the play along puzzle too.
Awesome! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and playing along. Enjoy the plans and feel free to tag me in an Instagram post if you want. Would love to see how they turn out.
I absolutely love the design and execution. I'd be curious about a limited tools build of the same for those of us who don't have table saws or chop saws. I've built a few small jigs for my circular saw and think it would still be possible. I saw the cups, but will buy the plans and let you know how it goes. If you have any tips, I'd love to hear them?
Thank you! I include a section in the plans that covers alternative methods with a more limited tool set. You can absolutely cut the tenons, for example with a hand saw, and the mortises with a chisel and mallet. I have linked some good videos from other great creators that cover those topics in more detail as well. I appreciate the purchase!
I actually do because I am incapable of putting tools away until after I have finished a project
Hahaha. I know that feeling. Tools don’t rest well on this workbench. But you could plop a piece of plywood on top and leave all your tools out on it if you like, I suppose.
Great video! Nice voice-over and very clear, good audio and video. Well done! And now I have to make saw-horses!
Thank you for watching! I’d love to see how your sawhorses turn out. Tag me in an Instagram post if you like: @sturdyboneswoodworking