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  @marc-alexandrecaron275215 күн бұрын

  Thanks man.

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  @sarfrazqureshi43427 күн бұрын

  Shit video

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  @fj7509Ай бұрын

  Hey there! What router bit are you using for the table? Thanks so much, this look super easy for a DIY project

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012Ай бұрын

  I’m glad you enjoyed the video! It’s a 3/8” round over bit.

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  @fj7509Ай бұрын

  @@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Thanks for getting back so fast!

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  @fj750928 күн бұрын

  @@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Hey there, Just wanted to reach out and say I followed your guide, and my boards came out incredible. The wood rasps you recommended saved me so much time and made sanding a lot easier. I've never had a sanding procedure this complex before and was a bit skeptical, but holy cow was it worth it. I'm still blow away by how buttery smooth it turned out. I'm not even trying to sell them, I'm going to give all four of them to my best friend's mother (one is a huge board made with Red Grandis, Walnut, Soft Maple, and White Oak). (btw I just now noticed your video had the specific router bit you used lol. Thanks for still replying!)

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  @robertcornelius3514Ай бұрын

  Did you mention the product being food safe?

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012Ай бұрын

  It is food safe by European standards, which are generally much more stringent than the US. The FDA has not put their stamp of approval on it for whatever reason, but I have used this for years now and have had great safe results. I would say do your own looking into it and use your best judgement. I don’t want to give bad advice.

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  @tyronepelfrey8192Ай бұрын

  Hey use a pencil marks to be sure you get the sanding coverage.

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012Ай бұрын

  I’ve switched to that since making this video, I agree! It works very well.

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  @Zynn162 ай бұрын

  I've watched many videos on these epoxy pours, etc. and find yours to be the easiest to watch. I feel like i can repeat what you have done. Great job with explaining things.

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  @Zynn162 ай бұрын

  Nice

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20122 ай бұрын

  Thank you! Hope it helped 👍

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  @charliekodatt2 ай бұрын

  Hey bud. Good video.

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20122 ай бұрын

  Thanks, I appreciate it!

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  @Lollipops200002 ай бұрын

  A waste of time…..

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  @Lollipops200002 ай бұрын

  Oh wait. You said wrong answers only, sorry

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  @CaseyAnderson-dr6bg3 ай бұрын

  kzread.info1QtvNFPRFdc?si=cpRFkrZsR7bgmYue 1:44

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  @garymorgan20953 ай бұрын

  He,s cooling that dohicky so will shrink for the other dohicky

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  @sayyoulovesatan6663 ай бұрын

  Putting some kind of fitting on that reducing TEE. Maybe another reducer or flange

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  @NicholasDlugos3 ай бұрын

  Nuclear fission 💀

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  @philipdavison4066sawdust3 ай бұрын

  Wow wisky they look fantastic beautiful job mate and tuition thanks a bunch 👍👏

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20123 ай бұрын

  Thanks bud! I appreciate it and I’m glad you liked the video. Cheers 🍻

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  @truthh83223 ай бұрын

  How thick are your slabs when you start?

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20123 ай бұрын

  I try to start at least a 1/2” thicker than what you want it to be finished. These were 1.5” thick and finish were about 1.25”. Depends on how much milling needs to be done as well. These were already planed and sanded to 120 after they came out of the kiln so they didn’t need much. If you are starting from scratch on rough sawn material I’d say 3/4” thicker than what you want it to be finished.

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  @stuartsherman59753 ай бұрын

  Very helpful video. Thank you for sharing.

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20123 ай бұрын

  I’m glad it was helpful, Thank you for watching!

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  @masf3 ай бұрын

  Man hobelt mit der Faser, nicht gegen die Faser.

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20123 ай бұрын

  In this scenario I’m going against it to level the glue up, flat first. I ran back over the entire piece with the grain after to smooth it all out.

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  @user-ex8ei2ux1f4 ай бұрын

  Great video! Thank you for producing it!

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  Thank you for watching, I really hoped it helps!!

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  @ailbheskyfeather1744 ай бұрын

  While I probably won't be needing as big a setup as you've got here, this video was really helpful! I'm building a banjo for the first time, and the neck blank I ordered has a big ol' open knot in it. Now I know how I'm gonna take care of it! Thank you! <3

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  Thank you for watching and I’m very glad it helped!! Good luck with the project, I hope it turns out great!

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  @cheyennemolinari11644 ай бұрын

  Amazing work

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  Thank you!! It was a love hate relationship until it was finished 😂

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  @Saintcustomwoodworking4 ай бұрын

  Part of the game ,love it! Great job

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  That’s the truth! Thanks, I’m glad you liked the video 👍🏻🍻!

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  @BAKERHUSKIE4 ай бұрын

  How long you has to dry after cut from tree. Before you can start sanding?

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  My rule of thumb is it needs to be down to a min of 10-11% moisture and acclimated to your shop or the environment it will be in. You can buy moisture readers (there are a few different types) to find out where the material is at. If you have the ability to have it kiln dried that will be the fastest. If not, you will have to sticker it and let it air dry. That generally takes a year or two depending on thickness, air movement, humidity etc. I hope this helps! Feel free to reach out if you have any other questions and thanks for watching the video!

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  @waterlilly62lori4 ай бұрын

  Everytime I try and use a jigsaw, it bounces. What am I doing wrong?

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  Generally what I’ve found is that it’s usually one of two things. Either you a turning to tight to fast or you have the wrong blade. There are two types of blades one where the teeth cut on the up stroke or one where the teeth cut on the down stroke. You want the teeth that cut on the up stroke. I’ve had this happen to me before too and I couldn’t for the life of me figure it out. Hope this helps!

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  @Zambanandia6 ай бұрын

  Thank you for this video, which round ober bit did you use ? 1/4" ? Greets from austria 🇦🇹

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20126 ай бұрын

  Yes, it was the 1/4” round over. Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 🍻.

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  @TayDavis72766 ай бұрын

  Thank you for your time, and for sharing. Looks great 🙌

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  Thank you!! I’m glad you enjoyed the video 🍻

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  @user-rg6zp6qu7c6 ай бұрын

  Is that just regular clear silicone that you're using to surround? I assume you just use a scraper then sander to get that off? Great video - thanks!

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20124 ай бұрын

  Yes, it’s just clear silicone. You can also use a hot glue gun if you are in a bind for time. Yes, scrape everything off you can then sand. If you have the time, a couple quick coats of poly where you are going to put the silicone/hot glue will save a bunch of time when you’re ready to sand/remove. Cheers 🍻

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  @codymuscat59986 ай бұрын

  You can apply de-waxed shellac on the top before you pour colored epoxy to prevent the over pour staining the wood. Reduces sanding time during finishing process 👍🏼

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  @melisayse69037 ай бұрын

  Thank you this video helped me so much! It is expensive to make beginners mistakes with, I learned that the hard way 😅

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  @darrinhaskell60687 ай бұрын

  Your shop is fine! If it works for you thats all that matters! Great work these look awesome!

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  @sandrafranklin59047 ай бұрын

  Gorgeous!

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  @PGore98947 ай бұрын

  Love these two videos. You did a great job explaining the entire process!

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  @nasrinsaadati8637 ай бұрын

  Thank you so much. You show everything very well and clearly. and you explain step by step. it was very useful for me. Thanks again

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  @mjb91768 ай бұрын

  Watching the number of steps that it takes before they can be sold explains why the prices are what they are. Thank for showing the process. They are beautiful.

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  @CindyinNewMexico8 ай бұрын

  Can do a pour with the table upside down?

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  @vicsaunders97108 ай бұрын

  Good video 👏👏

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  @CaptTPT8 ай бұрын

  Nice discussion. My only issue is the Silicone. No problem if you cut the end off. Problem is if you inadvertently loose a drip on your wood surface. Nothing in the way of finish, of any kind, will ever stick to it. Best to use non-silicone caulk. Then you never worry about it.

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  @Carpenters_Canvas8 ай бұрын

  good job

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20128 ай бұрын

  Thank you! Hope it helped or you at least enjoyed it 👍🏻🍻

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  @Carpenters_Canvas8 ай бұрын

  @@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012yeah man, I did, keep up the good work, I just used rubio for the first time, I had dust come out too but I don't think it matters because the finish isn't like many others, very forgiving, I don't think it's worth the money, it is good but there are other products that does the same and is a lot cheaper, Osmo 2k for one, Natura one coat is a good one too, i think. but great job !

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  @thenomadicjames30868 ай бұрын

  How thick was the wood?

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20128 ай бұрын

  It started off 1 3/4”. Finishes just under that. It was already dried, planned and sanded to 120 when I started.

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  @thenomadicjames30868 ай бұрын

  Thanks for responding! I’m worried about cutting that thickness especially black walnut

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki20128 ай бұрын

  Don’t be. Properly dried walnut is a dream to work with. Anything from 1.5” - 2” will be just fine. Give it a few days to acclimate to your shop before starting and you’ll be good to go if it’s been kiln dried.

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  @rudsaki8 ай бұрын

  I learned 2 things watching your video right after I tried my 1st sacrificial wood piece. First, don't round off the ends before epoxy, can't tape them right. Second build those little dams around the cracks, stuff will spread!

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  @judybrown27209 ай бұрын

  Hi. You talked in part one about how hard it is to stop leaks in your tape. I have tried clay, it seems to stop the leak and not to bad to clean up when removing tape.

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  @vickylavender840110 ай бұрын

  Thank you for your videos ! I thought they were the best.

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki201210 ай бұрын

  Thank you very much! I’m glad they helped ya!

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  @brucemaher762110 ай бұрын

  Bud light....Oooooo

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  @bubblervr936211 ай бұрын

  Thank you best video about this specific situation

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki201211 ай бұрын

  I truly appreciate that! I'm glad it was able to help you out with it. I learned the hard way with this stuff and I wanted to make sure no one else had to if I could help it.

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  @TokyoCraftsman11 ай бұрын

  Very helpful, I learned a few things, thanks! Cheers from Tokyo!

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki201211 ай бұрын

  Thank you, I appreciate it! I'm glad it helped you out.

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  @user-jj8wr9ju2b Жыл бұрын

  Sound inconsistent

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  @bruce9108 Жыл бұрын

  Used this method on a big slab with substantial cracks and voids. My first ever epoxy anything! The one board I used on one end was 12x31 for an idea. This method was 100% effective. Great video thanks!

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Жыл бұрын

  Im glad it helped ya!

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  @chillpillworkshop Жыл бұрын

  What epoxy do you use for those larger knots / deformities ?? I just rough sanded my walnut table top and have no idea what to use. Was thinking total boat High performance but worried the knots and deformities are too deep and big

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Жыл бұрын

  I have always had great luck with Wisebond Deep Pour Epoxy for the bigger knots and cracks. Depending on the size, humidity and temp it generally takes 2-3 days to harden up enough to de mold/move if needed. Ideally 7 days before you start milling or sanding it. I have in some cases used the regular epoxy to fill in super small cracks and knots but I don’t recommend it as it can not cure properly. Wide bond also makes a quick cure epoxy that I think you can pour up to an inch but it’s very temperamental and cures insanely fast so it’s very hard to work with. You really have to be on the ball when using it but I’ve had good luck with it as well. Hope it helps!

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  @chillpillworkshop Жыл бұрын

  @@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 awesome thank you. Deep pour it is for those bigger sections. One last question; is there a minimum amount needed to mix deep pour ? or can I just mix any amount (even if very little) as long as the mix ratio is correct?

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Жыл бұрын

  @@chillpillworkshop I would not mix any less than 6 oz. The reason being the smaller the amount you mix, the easier it is to get the ratios wrong. If your off just even a little bit the epoxy will not cure. So I always mix 6 oz just to be safe. I have mixed smaller amounts but I used a food scale and mixed it by weight. You will have to get those weights from Wisebond because the 2 parts don’t weigh the same per ounce. So just mixing 2:1 by weight will cause problems. Does that all make sense?

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  @chillpillworkshop Жыл бұрын

  @@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 perfect sense. Thank you so much. Great video

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  @mburke1211 Жыл бұрын

  Awesome couple of videos on epoxy. I subscribed. I’ve never done a pour, but I have a 36“ x 48“ slab of teak that I’m starting to prep. My question is, have you ever tried to use CA glue in the bottom of smaller cracks, and spraying it with activator, to help seal them up prior to pouring? Second question: I’ve seen other YT’ers use a heat gun after the epoxy cures, and a plastic scraper to take off the excess prior to planing or sanding. Ever tried it? Thanks, and look forward to exploring your catalog more!

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Жыл бұрын

  Thank you sir, I appreciate that! I use CA glue religiously to prep those exact things before pours. I’ve never had an issue with it. In fact I would use it on any small crack, bug hole, or other imperfection to help eliminate small voids. That’s where you will fight air bubbles and it’s a tough battle to win. As far as the heat gun and scraper to remove excess I guess I’m not sure I’ve ever heard of or seen that process? Once this stuff starts to cure it’s pretty much game over as far as removing excess. I babysit the pours for a few hours afterwards and wipe drips from edges and add more where needed but have never needed to remove excess epoxy. So I won’t be much help there. I do use a propane torch to pop air bubbles after I pour and spread the epoxy, but that’s all I use it for. Somethings to keep in mind: Temp/Humidity control are crucial for correct curing. Min 72 hours of controlled environment. Make sure you do a seal coat before any pour on raw wood. My rule of thumb for seal coats is 1oz per square foot. It’s just enough to seal things up before you start doing pours. It eliminates air bubbles, and will also catch any small voids you may have missed with the CA glue. For top coating: I use 1.5-2oz per square foot for each pour. Then I bump it up to 3oz per square foot on my final flood coat. These are just my preferences and doesn’t make them gospel, but I’ve had very good luck with these amounts. Feel free to reach out anytime if you get in a bind or have questions!

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  @mburke1211 Жыл бұрын

  @@whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Awesome, thanks so much for all the info, and the quick reply. I have have no doubt that watching your videos is going to improve my success on this maiden voyage.😊

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Жыл бұрын

  @@mburke1211 anytime man! Good luck and don’t panic lol.

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  @mburke1211 Жыл бұрын

  Sorry for one more message, but here’s a link to the process I was mentioning about heat gun/scraping: kzread.infoPTL8CMRwJEU?feature=share. Just trying to save sanding time!

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  @whiskyrivercustomwoodworki2012 Жыл бұрын

  @@mburke1211 ok this makes more sense now that I see it. I thought you meant trying to do this on the final top coat and it had me scratching my head lol. Yeah, I can see how this would be helpful on very tiny areas. What I have done in the past with situations like that is fill them with my colored epoxy and leave them a little under filled. Then bring up the rest of it with clear CA glue then use a chisel to remove the excess. Keep in mind also that epoxy soaks into the wood deeper than you’d think. Colored/non colored epoxy will stain raw wood with what ever color is in it. So what I will do if I’m only filling a crack in or something like that is put a couple of coats of poly on the face of the material around the area a day prior to pouring. The poly acts and a sacrificial barrier and that way the epoxy doesn’t seep down into the wood around the void. If that makes sense? If you don’t, you will have a discolored ring left behind that almost no amount of sanding will remove. Learned that one the hard way. Just be sure to sand all of the poly off as well so that what ever finish you put on it will have even coverage and virgin material to adhere to.

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  @racebannon-hx2vj Жыл бұрын

  Great tips-super helpful

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  @dugartmetaldetecting2418 Жыл бұрын

  Thanks for the info I'm doing my very first epoxy pour this week