With over 30 titles in publication, author Joe Nobody has long been a readers’ favorite. His adventure novels thrill with stories that might have been ripped from the morning’s headlines with protagonists who resonate with the average Joe… all the while sparking creative thought about social issues.
The Joe Nobody library of books includes apocalyptic novels, science fiction, political thrillers, children’s books, and instruction manuals. While each installment is completely different from the rest, they all follow a common pattern… hooking the reader with a compelling story, exposing all sides of the issue at hand and then exercising problem-solving skills to find creative resolution to the conflict.
Пікірлер
I purchased my Hornady A/P press with a central light that fits in the top of the press. Problem solved.
You’re using virtually every one of these products incorrectly and then saying they’re not worth it? I think people who are trying to help others make informed decisions should themselves be very informed on the products they are covering.
You’re right but you shouldn’t ignore the length from the olive to tip because overall length of the bullet variance results in bullet’s ballistic co-efficient varying. That does have an impact on bullet velocity and flight characteristics.
Thank you for the vid, Mr. Nobody. However, with boat tail bullets, wouldn't it be better to measure the bearing surface from ogive to ogive, rather than from ogive to base? I'm wondering if controlling the bearing surface can have an appreciable effect on controlling velocity, and thus eliminate some of the vertical flyers I get. I use Sierra 175 grain Match Kings at 500 yards, also out of a .308.
Thanks Joe Nobody, you really went straight at the issue I was searching for regarding the ojive,,
The powder cop is best used when doing mass reloading of pistol ammunition. Pistol ammo is less sensitive to slight changes in powder drop since it's typically used at 25 yards or less. At that range, being off on your powder load by 0.1 grains is no big deal. The big danger is not loading powder at all and getting a bullet lodged in the barrel. As for the light strip, it should be on the side of the press that is toward you, That way the light isn't in your face and the strip is less likely to interfere with the press operation. You can also use thin zip ties to ensure it doesn't come loose.
I'm not sure if this was some kind of April Fools video 3 yrs ago or intended to be serious and you simply had no idea what you were doing with the items shown such as the concentricity gauge which you had no idea how to use properly.
Lots of flawed thinking in this one. On the Casemaster, both v-blocks need to be under the body of the case, not one under the bullet.
Sorry Joe... I smell a consparicy lunitic... how can i taken any information from a lunitic?
I noticed that the Video maker has not replied to any of the comments. hmmm? Either he passed away or maybe he is writing some novels. I think he should read the instructions for each item. He would be better off selling that Hornady tool/machine and buying a "Forster/Co-ax Press" that actually works or a single stage "R.C.B.S. Rock Chucker" single stage press or a C-H/4-D Champion heavy duty press. Nobody NEEDS all those extra tools and doodads that at are in the video. If someone is shooting from the same firearm, then there should not be such a fascination with buying all the extra things. People that have won shooting matches have reloaded their ammo at the Range with the portable original "Lee Loader" (powered by arm and mallet). For decades, shooter's reloaded ammo with the "Ideal" 310 Tong-Tool (nicknamed "The Nutcracker"), it is now made by Lyman company. The original "Tong-Tool" even had a bullet mold attached to it so molten lead could be poured in and hardened. All the shooter needed was powder and primers. No gauges or trimmers or money wasting gizmos. All the unnecessary accessories that guys buy for reloading ammo make their wife's purses seem "normal".
If you’re not sizing before trimming using the FA, you will never get consistent trim lengths. Even if you did, they would likely not be consistent after sizing. Also, assuming that you do things in the same order as this example (could’ve just been for illustration purposes), there is no point of chamfer/deburr before trimming. Those actions clean up a trimmed case. I have the same trimmer, and it is spot on. Best budget trimmer out there in my opinion.
Tools only work well when they're used correctly. I see lots of user problems here.
How do feel about the lee load all for shotguns? They got one in 12 and 20 gauges and I think a few conversion kits for other gauges. I'm looking into a Lee load all 2 for 12 gauge. It's currently like 75 bucks and it used to be even cheaper years ago.
@Tony Sudano - Hello. I bought that hunk of junk "Lee Load-All" pot metal and plastic thing about the mid 1980's. Horrible waste of money. Shot came out when I wanted the powder to come out / powder came out when I wanted the shot to come out. I gave it away. The only things that Lee makes that are worth buying is the "Lee Powder Dippers", and maybe the "Original Lee Loader" {the one powered by arm and mallet}, and maybe their Cartridge Overall Length Gauge plate and Richard Lee's Reloading Manual, 2nd Edition, c.2003, but,,,, many of the powders listed in that book are no longer available. Their stuff that has "moving parts" is a waste of money. A relative gave me a Lee balance beam plastic scale for a gift. ugh. I said: 'Thank You" politely, but I later went to E-bay and got an older "Wells" brand beam scale made from hard metal and easier to figure out. Lee dies have a RUBBER gasket ring. 🤧🥵🙁 There is a reason that Lee only has a 2-year warranty on their products whereas R.C.B.S. / Huntington Die Specialties has a lifetime guarantee. {No, I do not work for R.C.B.S., just telling the truth.}
I know brother...I know☹. I haven't been reloading near as long as you and Jake but I have experienced problems with reloading tools not functioning to my expectation. Unfortunately, I have to target Hornady here. I am not a fan of anything I have of theirs other than the development of the 6.5Creedmoor cartridge. They got that right for sure! I have come to realize that reloading tools are mostly a "buy once, cry once" subject. As far as powder throwers go, I bought a Harrell. Its $300 but it is so wickedly accurate, that I have no need for a powder charge measuring die. Perfect every darn time. And an Accuracy One neck concentricity gauge (you'll really cry on this one!). But there are some bargain gems that I have come across. Here they are: *Lee case trimmer. It is very surprisingly good *Lee hand primer. It isn't a solid construction but it just works *Lee Neck Sizing die. This is my favorite *Lyman case trimmer. It is fine *Frankfort Universal Bullet Seating die. This one is will save you hundreds of dollars and is very repeatable Good luck to you and Jake!!!!
Hahahaha a screw driver and foul language 🤣
I have been handloading for 40 years also. I have bought thousands of dollars worth of stuff that is worthless. Mostly the case trim stuff is impressive but not great. The lee zip trim trims cases for $15 more accurately than my $200 lathe type... basically if the trimmer spins the cutter and not the case? it will be at an angle while the cheap lee will have a good cut. beam scale... it is all you need. Good micrometer powder measure? all you need.. within a tenth or so... you can use it to dump a load while you load 30 more rounds. I do load handgun rounds 90% of the time but never seen a rifle round a couple of tenths off that shot worse than factory.
I use the powder lock-up die. You dont need to watch it EVER. To high or to low a powder charge and the die jams. Very safe.
I don't regret buying anything. It is a learning curve. And I am still learning after 15 years reloading. Stay safe.
If you've reloaded 40 years you might still have a few things to learn. I've had fantastic experiences with my FA case trimmer. I think operator error is the root of your problems.
should he resize the case first ?
@@DLN-ix6vf always
@@caltick thought so and I have been reloading now for 1 month
That is why I like my Dillon, it’s Powder checker is adjusted once you checked manually your powder load is correct. Then it will be an audible alarm if LOW or HIGH. As for the lamp Dillon makes a Lamp but I went with sewing Lamp off amazon that can adjust and is outside the work area. So far not shooting any ammo with a neck so don’t have to deburr but keeping in mind if I do look for machine that trims base on the full cartridge length that was definitely worth knowing.
Great presentation. I just subscribed. I am 74 and have been reloading nearly 50 years. It's never too late to learn is it?
Go back and read the instructions. Resize before trimming. Concentricity gauge is not setup properly per your video.
I am assuming you did not know to size your brass before trimming. As I have that F/A trimmer set up and it is spot on. It sounds like you are overwhelmed with multiple operations with a progressive press and should probably look into a single stage press. RCBS makes great single stage presses. Hope you have a better experience with your future reloading ventures. God Bless and be safe.
Might as well throw out the rcbs concentricity gauge anyways. Your loading on a hornady progressive, your not going to get good concentricity, checking it isn't going to solve the problem.
I have several presses. The progressive is just what showed in the video.
I also regret buying the powder cop... no idea why I never returned it. There is so way you're ever going to spot something like a 2.0 grain difference in a .223 case. This is easily enough to cause a huge problem if fired.
I use the powder cop die all the time on my Hornady 5 station press . It's not made to tell if the powder is off by tenths of a grain , IMO . It is great to make sure you won't get a squib load , especially when loading bottle neck cases that are hard to check the powder charge level while on the press . If you get use to watching for this , you'll never have a squib load .
The Hornady presses are brutal. My AP has never worked for more than 50 cases, and my LnL has so much slop in the arm that it is ridiculous. Buy once, cry once. I would rather pay full price for covid-priced ammo than fire up my progressive press. For precision, moving on from the LnL as well
You need to learn to adjust it properly more than likely, they run smoothly once have it dialed in,look into how to precisely dial in your pawls, watch 76 highboy he shows great, many times people think the press is just its just usually they don't know how to fine tune it,if it truly can't be tuned contact hornady here in GI and they will help you fix it
@@ericb6390 thx. I have spent so much time on the phone with Hornady (never an offer to replace) and researching. Down to 16th turn adjustment with pawls, setting the bearings, etc. my Forster co-ax and Dillon super 1050 come this week. Thx for the reply
Not sure if this comment is too late . I own a motorized prep station . But found the noise of the thing continuously running very annoying . Part of reloading is the enjoyable aspect of it . So anyway , I use a foot pedal that I had and plug the motorized prep staton into it . Then plug the foot pedal into the outlet . So whenever I’m not prepping a piece of brass . It is off & quiet . As far as the light goes . You have probably found a way by now . But for others I have two suggestions . First try some double sided carpet tape . Second suggestion is that there are magnetically attached flexible lights of different sizes . That will bend into any position possible . Also get 2 multiple outlet surge protectors . 1 for your powder drop ( if not mechanical , if it is then forget this suggestion ) . 1 for everything else . I also have the L E Wilson case trimmer . Which can be attached to a battery operated handheld screwdriver . Lastly , I mounted each of my different prep machines or tools to trays . Which can be clamped or have rubber feet . Then they can be put away when not in use . Like the RCBS primer tool . Along with each of the others mentioned in my suggestions and your video . I have limited space to work with . Hope these help someone ...
Sell it all. Get on a reloading forum and list every item. That's what I would do.
Thanks for posting this
Are you literally trying to make these items NOT work or do you just not bother reading directions?
The FA case trimmer is awesome. I think you don’t understand case stretch.
Your strip light I would try a high quality stick on Velcro strip applied to the press clean with alcohol before application then apply strip to the rear of the strip light shouldn’t ever move unless you want to remove it.
I used 100% silicon caulk on my led strip lights. Holds well but removeable if they ever fail. Superglue would require acetone to remove.
I got the Lee Universal deprimer only to learn that unlike a caliber specific deprimer, the Universal does not resize...just deprimes
Yes, that’s it’s purpose. There is absolutely no reason to be upset
I have the Lee case trimmer, the one with the little wood ball handle. Uses a cartridge specific center rod that holds length tolerance from the flash hole to the end of the neck. It is cheap, accurate, quick, and very consistent. Sure, you have to buy a new guide rod for each case you reload and trim, but they are cheap.
Then it gives you a bad case of carpal tunnel syndrome after you run through a few hundred cases...
Ha ha haa ...I have the first 4 of the 5 and love every one of them.
Excellent! Great tips. Especially about case trimmers that do not include the entire case in operation. I reload for hunting rifles on a single stage press. I've also been hand loading for over 40 years. I still use my 1972 RCBS Rock Chucker press up here in Alaska. What do you use to measure case neck thickness and bullet runout?
That FA case prep machine is awesome. I do a lot of 300 blackout and absolutely love using that machine.
I size the brass before trimming. that way the shoulder is bumped back and the body is resized before trimming to length. that way coming off of the shoulder is not an issue.
You trim your rifle cases after you full length size. Any extra length will then be in the neck and get trimmed off.
First mistake , is using a progressive press. Dispose of such immediately and purchase yourself a single stage.
y tho, progressive is so much faster
@@Suspect002 There are reloader’s and handloader’s . Reloader’s reload to shoot again. Handloaders shoot to once again to go through the therapeutic steps of handloading to shoot. Very important.
@@joshdavidson3706 why not both
@@joshdavidson3706 hmm. I had to read that a couple of times before it clicked. That’s the most accurate explanation of the reloading/hand loading I ever heard. Well said sir.
That's a great video topic. I regret buying my Hornady cam lock bullet puller. I also regret most of the RCBS dies I bought instead of buying Lee, they were the older style dies though. I regret buying trimmers for pistol caliber cartridges because I didn't know better.
I, for many years, run a Lyman case trimmer; it was so inconsistent in case length trimming, I felt there had to be something better, and there is. The L.E. Wilson case trimmer, it always cuts perfect. The multi-functional case prep machine, I watch some videos on several models yours being one of them, and I came away knowing the Lyman was the best of the bunch.
if you say the Lyman trimmer is inconsistent why do yo then say it's the best of the bunch ?
@@DLN-ix6vf he meant the Lyman Case Prep Express is the best of the bunch, not his old trimmer. Pay attention! Lol
@8:00 that RCBS concentricity gauge, measuring runoff with the holders set at and angle like that won't amount to a heap of bones. Encourage Jake to move those thumb screw casing placement holders back to where both of them are under the cartridge case body symmetrically (picture a lathe setup) and then have him paw them up together on that slider to his point of measure before he sets the screws. It's a good tool, hope yall get your moneys worth out of it.
Yup, putting one side on the bullet negates any runout. and I also believe he has the V-Blocks reversed; the tall one on the neck side and the short one on the rim side.
The quick release on my Hornady press moves when I full length size my brass..... very disappointed
Thanks Joe. Useful information that can be done cheaply. Say hello to Jake. Blessings.
Great video. It's good to know what is a waste of money.
Good video. Would have been better if you then discussed what tools were better.
Wow, that trimmer is hilariously bad! It's only good if you already have brass that has the neck/primer at equal length - such as new brass perhaps? At which point, you're not "re-loading", you're just "loading".
You really should size before you trim
before you use the case trimmer is it possible to resize / deprime? or have you done that? I mean clearly you have deprimed but what about resize?
You should always trim after resizing. Often, resizing stretches the case especially when using a full-length die. Trimming before hand may leave you with cases to long.
@@joenobody8550 yet you are concerned about indicating off of the shoulder due to case body stretch, your concern is solved by trimming after sizing as you suggest...
I am glad to see that you have pointed out the neck distortion. I have seen this happening in 9mm rounds that have been loaded with a slower burning powder for use in carbines.