Пікірлер

• 
  @sunglint7 күн бұрын

  Thanks for the vid. Have you tried x-ray film? It too can be done in safelight by inspection.

• 
  @N_N_NАй бұрын

  Thank you for creating this video and going through all the work, super helpful. I've been chasing proper Dark Black-Cyanotypes for a while and this works so well. I'd be interested in the chemistry behind why vinegar creates this further shift.

• 
  @N_N_NАй бұрын

  out of curiosity, did you use the original Cyanotype-chemistry (solution A + B etc), or one of the two Mike Ware came up with? I wonder if this would change the results, but I would assume they still produce the same chemicals after exposure and washing?

• 
  @matthewbary1Ай бұрын

  @N_N_N the tannic acid is ph sensitive. If you dip a cyanotype toned in tannic acid into an acid bath it turns gray, if you dip it into a basic solution it turns a reddish color. My guess is that when you dip it in an acidic bath it makes some of the bleached cyanotype solution turn slightly blue again and combined with the reddish color of the tannic acid it causes a "split tone" affect. Because of how the subtractive color works I think that the blue and reddish together are making the gray color.

• 
  @matthewbary1Ай бұрын

  @N_N_N this was original cyanotype chemistry. The new cyanotype should work the same but amonia works better as a bleach for it.

• 
  @N_N_NАй бұрын

  ​@@matthewbary1 makes sense, thanks!

• 
  @matthewbary1Ай бұрын

  @@N_N_N No problem

• 
  @sillysandwich4654Ай бұрын

  Do you know if there are any health risks from using the exposure lamp? 11:10

• 
  @matthewbary1Ай бұрын

  @sillysandwich4654 While the particular wavelengths used in these led lights are not necessarily dangerous like sun rays, I would still use eye protection. It might look dull, but that is just because we can't see those wavelengths and it is 80 watts so definitely wear eye protection

• 
  @mzny4314Ай бұрын

  Revisit your work, thank you ❤

• 
  @matthewbary1Ай бұрын

  I am working on the tri color cyanotype video as an addition to what I have already made. It is what I was working towards in the first place and I finally got it to work

• 
  @mzny4314Ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 congratulations on your cyanotypes journey. It’s sooo cool and gracious of you to share it with the rest of us, your fan club 😁🤗

• 
  @Jim-BobWaltonАй бұрын

  Great results! Just wondering if you’ve considered espresso: three quarters for half for you, one quarter straight on the print? Just a crazy idea (to justify espresso) Have you tried apple cider vinegar afterwards?

• 
  @matthewbary1Ай бұрын

  I have. I need to make a more advanced video on cyanotype toning, I have found many ways and many toners to get prints that look as good as any salt print and even some very nice dark black prints using split toning. Espresso, tannic acid, wine tannins, and oak galls all make great prints

• 
  @Jim-BobWaltonАй бұрын

  You can use a feather to get rid of the bubbles,, just gently brushing the print

• 
  @matthewbary1Ай бұрын

  That is a very good idea

• 
  @jaosanpedro32782 ай бұрын

  Hi! Is there a solution I can use in place of potassium dichromate? I can’t seem to source it locally

• 
  @matthewbary12 ай бұрын

  To be honest with you, I'm kind of surprised I was able to get it, dicromates are hazardous and must be handled with care. There is a process called the Chiba system that uses the same ferric citrate used in cyanotype along with a diluted peroxide developer. I am in the process of using it to make a safe replacement for the dichromate process. The book "carbon transfer printing" actually describes the process but you can find results online as well.

• 
  @NuttakitSuk2 ай бұрын

  Is it because ingredient A has become diluted? This causes the need to be exposed to light for up to 65 minutes.

• 
  @matthewbary12 ай бұрын

  No, that was related to how densely I printed the negative and the light source. My bigger exposure unit is only 15 minutes

• 
  @NuttakitSuk2 ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 Thank you

• 
  @matthewbary12 ай бұрын

  @@NuttakitSuk No problem

• 
  @sultanmutrad31402 ай бұрын

  Hey, thank you for your time, it's very helpful, but I've been thinking, if i could toning without bleaching, is it possible ?

• 
  @matthewbary12 ай бұрын

  You definitely can it will just be a different outcome. You can also half bleach and tone as well, which makes a more black looking image. For toning without bleaching, try instant coffee.

• 
  @alinamiro49132 ай бұрын

  Thank you very much for your videos, I've learned a lot and am excited to try. For the digital projector I'll just have to stick a film to the projector from outside right? And just a normal while light will work? How far from the paper projector should be for it to work?

• 
  @matthewbary12 ай бұрын

  If you are using a digital projector you will have to scan the film and display it on the projector. As for how far, it just depends on the size you want but the bigger the longer it will take.

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  @alinamiro49132 ай бұрын

  @matthewbary1 thank you! How long approx will it take with a normal projector?

• 
  @matthewbary12 ай бұрын

  @@alinamiro4913 Most likely it will take several hours of exposure

• 
  @alinamiro49132 ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 thank you! That worked, love the result. appreciate so much your effort in making these instructions!

• 
  @alinamiro49132 ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 thank you so much! That worked with great results. Thanks again for the detailed instructions and explanations you are making!

• 
  @georginacalder67984 ай бұрын

  Thank you THANK YOU for this wonderfully detailed video❤ much appreciated, from an art teacher🎉

• 
  @matthewbary13 ай бұрын

  Glad it was helpful!

• 
  @anammcnamara5424 ай бұрын

  Will this work for fabric? I want to print on fabric and make sure it doesn’t wash out but I’m not sure how to go about it

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  I am not sure if anyone has used the "new cyanotype" on fabric. The resulting "Prussian blue" would be the same from ether so I would use the classic as it is more stable and several people have already done it on fabric.

• 
  @alfvq4 ай бұрын

  Hi, very useful, thank you. It's been years since I don't do cyanotypes anymore. I remember that if you bleached the print (Sodium Carbonate) AFTER the toning it would get warm even faster... but too warm. After many experiments I came up with some dillution of sodium carbonate mixed with the coffee and reduced the toning time but never got those neutral tones. That said, what are the concentrations you've used for the sodium carbonate and tha tannic acid? Thank you

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  The bleaching bath you simply mix till you have a PH of 11-12. As far as the tannic acid I would say 1 tablespoon per liter of water.

• 
  @alfvq4 ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 Thank you very much!

• 
  @LUNAIRErec4 ай бұрын

  thank you for your dedication to make a video about your process, I am really happy to find your video because im trying to get pictures on large glass and i was using direct coal printing (idk how its named, im french sorry for my english) wich don't work at all on glass... I want to get deep dark on my final result and yours seems a little bit off (or its the lightening ?). Do you have any idea in wich way i can experiment to get more darker tones with your technic ? Do you think i can use charcoal powder instead of ink ? Thank you in advence for your answsers !

• 
  @LUNAIRErec4 ай бұрын

  I have also issue finding potassium dychromate because its banned in europe due to his high toxicity, does Diazidostilbene work at the same measure ? sorry for all this questions but you are my last hope

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  To achieve darker or lighter/higher or lower contrast you simply adjust the amount of pigment up or down and/or the sensitizer up or down to create the desired results.

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  There is a method that uses "ferric ammonium citrate" used in cyanotypes and dilute hydrogen peroxide to achieve the same result without dichromate . The method is referenced in the book "Carbon Transfer Printing" by by Sandy King (Author), Don Nelson (Author), John Lockhart (Author). essentially the steps are the same as in my video but the dichromate is replaced with the "ferric ammonium citrate" and no potassium hydroxide is needed. after it dries and is exposed you first develop it with a dilute amount of hydrogen peroxide then rinse off the unexposed glop. This must all be done at lower temperatures than with dichromate as this method does not harden as well. I need to make a video on the subject as I am trying to provide methods where dichromate's are not available or where someone may not want to use them due to there toxicity. The process in question is called the Chiba system

• 
  @LUNAIRErec4 ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 Thank you for your reply ! i have found Potassium Ferricyanide as replacement for dichromate and i will try it this week, i have ferric ammonium citrate and i have tried the chiba system but the problem is that the gelatine doenst stick to the glass when its dry but i will try your recipe with it!

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  @@LUNAIRErec remember to use cool water when developing and fan dry to speed up drying

• 
  @devoyercharles67655 ай бұрын

  Hi ! I am printing cyanotype using new cyanotype recipe for many years and I randomly have issue with the sensitizer which tend to be dark green with Prussian blue in suspension In the solution and I don't quite understand why its happening randomly... It result in fade result with a lot of the sensitizer being wash away when rincing.... Did you already encounter this issue ? I never used dichromate potassium as it's not available in Europe and I am wondering if it might be the reason why I am having these issue... Do you know any replacement for dichromate available in Europe ? Does Diazidostilbene might be an option ? I am also wondering if it might be caused by raw chemical quality but I bought them from Bostick and Sullivan so it should be fine ? I would greatly appreciate any feedbacks as I am quite desperate to understand these issue ! have a good day !

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  I have avoided the "new cyanotype" formula as it is just very complicated and very sensitive. You almost have to make it right before you use it as if it sits to long it goes blue. Also you have to be careful of the paper used, how much humidity is in the air when it dries, just allot of issues with it so I avoid it at all cost. However if you really want to pursue this method I recommend going to www.alternativephotography.com/ and check out the section on "new cyanotype" and maybe you will have more luck with it than myself.

• 
  @devoyercharles67654 ай бұрын

  Thanks for taking the time to answer ! I print cyanotype using this technique since 7 years and I am very happy with the result when it works but there is a lot of random in the result depending on the chemicals and I am very frustrated with that... I don't understand what is the cause of it...

• 
  @linsi8795 ай бұрын

  Genius 👏🔥

• 
  @hglmz5 ай бұрын

  Have you tried applying these applications to inkjet photo paper? . The layer liquids on inkej photo paper have extremely adhesive properties and have high smoothness. I believe that somehow the cyanotype solution will yield a good result when applied to this paper. I hope to try this when I get the courage to start cyanotype. :) Best regards, good shots

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  Inkjet photo papers stain very badly when toned, which is why I avoid them. This is unfortunate because inkjet paper creates a very high resolution image

• 
  @maxwellbrody225 ай бұрын

  Could you use this higher power led in the 35mm projector enlarger you created previously. Would this speed up the exposure time for that process or would the 10w have the same effect?

• 
  @matthewbary15 ай бұрын

  I tried a 100w led and it was faster but the print was blurry. It may have been that the extra heat it created caused warping but I'm not sure. It did not seem to affect the enlarger but it may have to do with the lenses it has.

• 
  @andrewbaxter85605 ай бұрын

  Thank you so much for sharing this. I tried the vinegar wash with some prints I toned, and I noticed that when the prints dried, the neutral gray turned back into the more purple/red color. Do you have any tips on how to avoid this? Many thanks!

• 
  @matthewbary15 ай бұрын

  If you rinsed it after the vinegar it's possible the wash water was to alkaline. Try the vinegar soak again but rinse it in water that has some vinegar added to make sure it is not alkaline and that may help

• 
  @andrewbaxter85605 ай бұрын

  Thank you so much for the quick reply! I tried the same print again, and I left it in the vinegar longer. I think that has done the trick. But I will also try your advice as well; the water here is pretty alkaline. Thanks again!@@matthewbary1

• 
  @BAstudios56 ай бұрын

  Great info!

• 
  @swordssolitude38616 ай бұрын

  Awesome - Can you explain the bleaching process you used for the final piece you were happy with?

• 
  @matthewbary14 ай бұрын

  I explain bleaching in the Due tone video series I made. It will help with bleaching and toning.

• 
  @thefilmhacker49987 ай бұрын

  I may be wrong, let's start with that possibility. if you have a 10% solution (say 1 gram in 10 ml) and you double the water = 20ml, you now have a 5% solution. when you took the 10 ml of solution A and added 10 ml of solution B you now have 1 gram of a in 20 ml of water and 1 gram of b in 20 ml of water. combining the mixed solutions created a 5% solution already. when you added the 20 ml more to "half" the formulas you now have - still, 1 gram of A and 1 gram of B each in 40 ml of water or a 2.5% solution. when you mixed them together they were already halved and now you quartered them. Figure if you took solution A (1 gram in 10 ml) and added 10ml of water, it's now 5% without any of the water in solution B and it's extra 10 ml. what happens to the extra water? I believe it is 5% when you mix the two together. Again I reserve the right to be wrong. I kinda think I might be right.

• 
  @matthewbary17 ай бұрын

  A normal cyanotype solution is a 20/10 mixture, I am diluting the 20 solution in half making it 10 and only that one for the first layer, the second layer is the 10/10 solution diluted in half which would bring the individual components to 5/5.

• 
  @dmitrypetrichenko10817 ай бұрын

  Thanks, nice job. 🎉🎉🎉

• 
  @merce4148 ай бұрын

  Great video, thank you so much

• 
  @siavashrokni418 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the video! I am getting into this these days. I like the color that black Henna gives. Also, surprisingly, red wine

• 
  @mywoodenghost11448 ай бұрын

  I feel like Squidward came to life and made this video

• 
  @skytrooper5068 ай бұрын

  Great video! How did you get the clear border around the large print?

• 
  @matthewbary18 ай бұрын

  It is a digital negative so I just added it on the computer

• 
  @friedasorber16538 ай бұрын

  Thank you so much for sharing your resaerch. I am working with the archive of a lace business and found some reverse cyanotypes, the lace blue on a white background. They are certainly pre wwII. So your analog method gives me a solution for how they could have been done. Would exposure time have been less for a subject like lace with no different tonal values?

• 
  @matthewbary18 ай бұрын

  Do you mean lace directly on the paper or a picture of lace?

• 
  @friedasorber16538 ай бұрын

  Moat cyanotypes were of lace directly on paper. But now I found some were the lace is blue on a white background, so I assume they were made using a photographic negative.

• 
  @matthewbary18 ай бұрын

  It could be possible to do this with Ortho Litho film to make large negatives @@friedasorber1653

• 
  @Janeliker8 ай бұрын

  Where do you get tannic acid from - wine? I thought black tea was pretty full of tannic acid ? Also couldn't work out how long you left in the bleach which I think we call soda crystals here? Until the image completely fades or is it timing?

• 
  @matthewbary18 ай бұрын

  There is tannic acid in all kinds of tea and other plant roots and leaves they just have other compounds as well that will affect the color of the print. Tannic acid is just the pure form which I have bought from Ebay but green tea has the same affect as the pure stuff. You can use wine tannins but they are more prone to staining. As far as bleaching I want to do a master class on toning at some point because there are several ways to do it, yes you can bleach it all the way which I did here but you can also "split tone" where you 1/4 or 1/2 bleach and then tone which makes the image more detailed and better quality in my opinion.

• 
  @matthewbary18 ай бұрын

  And yes you want to use "soda crystals"

• 
  @Janeliker8 ай бұрын

  Thank you very much. When I get time I'll refer back to this.

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  @jessicacywinska11679 ай бұрын

  Is there a way to bleach at home without any bad chemicals? - photography student here

• 
  @matthewbary19 ай бұрын

  Washing soda or "Sodium carbonate" dissolved in water is all you need. It is just baking soda that has been heated so it is perfectly safe

• 
  @studiojege2879 ай бұрын

  Question, what about the difference in intencity between green tea and tannic acid? As greeen tea is commonly availble versus tannic acid (and/or cheaper to work with). Thanks

• 
  @matthewbary19 ай бұрын

  Color and intensity are the same. If you want a darker color from ether tannic acid or green tea that is just going to depend on the thickness of your emulsion on the paper. Essentially if you double coat your paper you will get almost twice the intensity but it doesn't matter which one you use.

• 
  @BriefSaga9 ай бұрын

  Amazing! Wizard lab🥂✨

• 
  @mattmarks25269 ай бұрын

  A question on paper - I like Canson paper. Besides being easy to get, I think it has a nice texture. But, what I noticed is that the prints came out weak, even with a very long exposure. I traced it back to the paper - I put a drop of vinegar on it and it started fizzing. To me, that indicated the sizing was alkaline. I started soaking the paper in Sulfamic acid (15%) which is sold in hardware stores as a tile and grout cleaner under the brand name "Aquamix". I let it soak until the fizzing stopped, then rinsed and dried it. After that, I was able to get very deep blue images. Did you ever run into this issue?

• 
  @matthewbary19 ай бұрын

  I have noticed this in several types of paper. Just be aware when you pre treat with acid it causes particles to precipitate out which may require thorough rinsing

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  @mattmarks25269 ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 Yes, I rinse thoroughly. before drying. I used Sulfamic acid instead of vinegar/acetic acid because I read somewhere (can't remember where) that sulfamate salts rinse cleaner than acetate salts.

• 
  @matthewbary19 ай бұрын

  @mattmarks2526 I have read that as well. My go to solution is to not do anything to the paper and develop the cyanotype in hot water with citric acid or undiluted vinegar. It also seems to help to make denser negatives and expose for much longer times.

• 
  @janelj79 ай бұрын

  Excellent video many thanks for your time and patience and attention to detail. All very much appreciated.

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  @dujingtou9 ай бұрын

  I have successfully implemented it according to the idea in your video, which is a very good solution. grateful. Also, I used citric acid instead of strong acid. The exposure time is not as fast, but the effect is still great. My exposure times are around two minutes to two minutes and thirty seconds.

• 
  @matthewbary19 ай бұрын

  Very glad to hear it worked for you

• 
  @drwarson9 ай бұрын

  Washing sona - Sodium carbonate - Na2CO3 or baking soda - Sodium bicarbonate - NaHCO3?

• 
  @matthewbary19 ай бұрын

  Washing soda. Sodium carbonate

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  @dujingtou10 ай бұрын

  Like you, I gave up on the rip curve. I later used PhotoShop's curve. There is a plug-in called ChartThrob, which finally solved all the problems.

• 
  @FlorianRohrweck10 ай бұрын

  Excellent work!

• 
  @dagadeaire110 ай бұрын

  thank you very much for this video series. I will give it a try... :)

• 
  @studiojege28710 ай бұрын

  Great video!

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  @tokiettacri11 ай бұрын

  Thanks for this video!!! Just a quick question, does this method of toning also work on other supports, like fabric, for example? Thanks for your time!

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  @matthewbary111 ай бұрын

  It should work on any anything, just keep in mind some things hold more emulsion than others and some things allow emulsion to penetrate deeper so this will affect your negative density and exposure times but otherwise everything would be the same. Hope that helps.

• 
  @tokiettacri11 ай бұрын

  @@matthewbary1 thank you so much!!!

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  @romar158111 ай бұрын

  Using an ultrasonic cleaner greatly accelerates the solution of 'stubborn' salts.

• 
  @voceclb Жыл бұрын

  Muchas gracias!!.

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  @AthenaCarey Жыл бұрын

  I add citric acid to the mixed cyanotype solution. And also vinegar to the first bath. I’ve been thinking about heat during exposure today and that’s what led me to your video. Thanks for making it. 🙂

• 
  @putnik8053 ай бұрын

  Does citric acid lowers exposure time?

• 
  @Realrobotgoldfish Жыл бұрын

  I shoot arista Ortho lith (8x10 and 4x5) at asa 1 and develop in 1+ 4 dektol. I contact print Cyanotypes and this works out well for me.

• 
  @matthewbary1 Жыл бұрын

  That is great to know. I am sure several people using this film are making cyanotype prints with it.

• 
  @psynchro Жыл бұрын

  Thanks for your time with the citric acid bath tests!

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  @teresashinkansen9402 Жыл бұрын

  I been having great results using a 0.3% wash solution of HNO3 is not stinky is cheaper than vinegar and not dangerous, you can always neutralize it with a bit of baking soda if you wanna be very safe before dumping it on the sink (to avoid corrosion of your pipes) but I do get some pretty nice darker colors if I use some H2O2 afterwards. Also to increase sensitivity and tonal range (but less contrast) just apply the Ferric ammonium citrate solution on the paper with no ferricyanide, then develop in a 5% ferricyanide solution, I discovered this while trying to make prints from an LCD screen, the exposure time was about 24h with the brightness of the screen to the max. I want to get a cheap screen and convert it to UV LEDs. Ferric ammonium oxalate works much better, is far more sensitive but has the disadvantage of staining the paper if it is buffered (can't find unbuffered paper at reasonable prices were I live).

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  @andreargb3222 Жыл бұрын

  Hi what a great idea with the proyector ! Can you tell us where to buy it ?

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  @lisabakke9280 Жыл бұрын

  Does the second wash water contain white vinegar too? I am referring to the bath after the tea toning. Is that just water?

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  @matthewbary1 Жыл бұрын

  It is just water

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  @lisabakke9280 Жыл бұрын

  In nr3:20 videoclip: is it adding tea/ coffee to a separate basin? Not together with the washing soda bleach solution ?these are separate, correct?

• 
  @matthewbary1 Жыл бұрын

  yes they are separate