I’m glad I found your videos. Thank you for the detail in explanation, video, and editing. The multiple video clips at once almost explain the reasons and differences on their own.
@craigwhite570318 күн бұрын
What brand of liquid latex do you recommend? Thank you.
@craigwhite570318 күн бұрын
At 4:36, what tool is that to clean up excess wash? Thank you.
@tomkeenum8810Ай бұрын
Music is too loud! It makes it hard to understand you.
@lwentz55102 ай бұрын
Good video - however the music is way too loud.
@dicksmith35532 ай бұрын
how do you get polish out of riveting
@TheSilverwolf973 ай бұрын
Every time I learn more about this hobby I find more processes I should've taken in between steps and more tools and more composites to work with. It is truly a never ending experience and I am all for it.
@josephlau84763 ай бұрын
I like to play with model too.
@josephlau84763 ай бұрын
I like playing model too.
@sergelibe49464 ай бұрын
Bel avion ,un chef -d 'oeuvre dans la réalité et en maquette .👍👍👍
@user-zh3wy3tl7f5 ай бұрын
Cool. Doing that plane But with french camo. Suscribed. Great job with the bmf!!!
@BenjWarrant5 ай бұрын
I'm just coming back to modelling after a break of... many years, but with main joins like the fuselage and cowling, I can't see why I shouldn't use sprue goo to glue them together. If it's done carefully, won't that fill the gap at the same time as gluing them together?
@rgj80446 ай бұрын
The very small parts are very hard to cut off. Much of my experience has resulted in a pile of crumbled little bits of parts which is really upsetting. Not really a fan.
@williammarshall65447 ай бұрын
I need a technique to drill a centred hole in a < 1mm piece of plastic rod to simulate a gun barrel?
@mxboy968 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@cobusprinsloo9 ай бұрын
By far the most professional modelling tutorial videos I’v seen! Thank you.
@cobusprinsloo9 ай бұрын
He best video I’ve seen on this subject - thank you! Where can one get proper putty applicators?
@theblytonian39069 ай бұрын
Loads of good tips, but I disagree with the technique and rationale at :50s Been doing this a long, long long time and from an era when the only special modelling tools most modellers had was mum's nail file and an eXacto knife with a single #11 blade. Your suggested technique makes for a lot of unnecessary extra work, AND won't guarantee any cleaner a cut, nor will mine (single cut & cut close) necessarily result in damage. There are exceptions. i.e. A. the kit plastic is exceptionally hard & brittle (Zvezda green used in their Soviet WWII armour) or B. so super soft it squashes like plasticine (Airfix recycled in their anything Made in India kits). The technique keys for a single cut and minimum cleanup on regular quality kits from the likes of Tamiya, Hasegawa, Dragon, Eduard et al are; 1. use a quality pair of reputable brand nippers, Tamiya, Xuron, Mr.Hobby with 2. a very sharp cutting edge, and 3. use the correct (flat) side of the cutting blades close against the part at the correct angle for the part, 4. in good light where you can see properly, and 5. take care in cutting the part away. That way a very clean separation, minimal attention with a knife if even necessary, and a similiar light swipe with a sanding file if at all. Glue. 1.Use a quality brand. 2. Have a variety of glues so you can use the right glue for the part. 3. Less is more. Plastic model parts aren't load bearing. 4. Use brushable capilliary action glues anywhere you can -caveat, if appropriate. e.g. Tamiya Extra Thin, Mr.Hobby Mr Cement S. For pre-application on larger parts, wings etc use regular Tamiya Cement, Mr Hobby Mr Cement both brushables, or Revell Contacta with its accurate tip applicator. Haven't tried cable ties. Back in the old days, we used rubber bands. These days I prefer to use I prefer to use masking tape. Quality painters tape in its varying sizes is good to save on Tamiya, and stronger. Scotch, 3M, Bear. The real key is to buy quality kits with crisp accurately tooled moulds, dry fit and cut/file if at all necessary until the prerequisite fit. For ref. I predominantly built 1/48, 1/32 air and 1/35 armour.
@BarryHills-fi5ph10 ай бұрын
What size rate earth magnets do you use
@lewiswilliams583711 ай бұрын
A few questions.... 1. Why are you using Tamiya Extra Thin for the bonding of large parts in such a manner? Regular Tamiya Cement (white cap stuff) is by far better for parts of that size. 2. Why are you applying it in such a way? I've always thought Tamiya was more effective as a "capillary action" glue (holding the parts together and applying). Not that it won't work your way, but genuinely curious as to why when their white cap stuff will do the same job in one coat (and allow more time to fiddle). 3. Why are you applying polishing compound to unpainted plastic and is it durable for an undercoat before priming? From others experience and guidance, this is definitely a contaminant when it comes to painting, acting as a barrier between paint and plastic.
@richardberrie5510 Жыл бұрын
Where have you gone? Really appreciate your excellent videos. Certainly one of the very best. I know it’s a slog to video and edit, but you’re very talented teacher. Please continue. Hope your well. Regards
@kristinpinnell9743 Жыл бұрын
Hey what putty is the one that is more liquidity
@RyanClarky Жыл бұрын
I am really enjoying these videos. My pal and I are about to our first jump into serious modeling. I have subscribed and shared. Most excellent!
@TheBattleRabbit860 Жыл бұрын
The "building parts you won't see" thing is a big issue with some kits. I'm working on Trumpeter's P-38L-5-LO and both the left and right engines are incredibly detailed with many small parts and intricate rubber hose pieces that were a nightmare to glue in. Then I put the halves together and saw a lot of it was covered. No big deal. But by the time you get the booms attached to the main cockpit fuselage, you see just the very back of the top of the engines and through two small porthole windows on the inside of each boom. I spent a total of two days on each engine, cutting, sanding, fitting, priming, then painting each engine in stages to make sure I had everything perfectly glue and painted from the deepest recesses out. I was hoping there was an option for an 'open engine' or at least a conversion kit I could buy and not have to resort to the good old hobby saw.
@ponymoore6140 Жыл бұрын
I love your videos, but why play the annoying music, it ruins the video. There seems to be some kind of obsession with people feeling that they MUST add must to videos - it is so annoying!
@acatellani Жыл бұрын
A definitive guide on putty! Thanks!
@PlatypusVomit Жыл бұрын
I was going to try to add rivets to a model that was molded without any, but this looks like it's way too tedious and time-consuming for me. It adds detail that the model needs, but oh well.
@DumbledoreMcCracken Жыл бұрын
1:14 I couldn't imagine what the plane behind the C-27J was, until I looked for it in the other video: a cartoonish B-24. It would have bothered me for years if it weren't for your other video!
@user-ty5dc9vr7x Жыл бұрын
When I'm doing rivet work, I use tape as a guide to follow lines consistently, and thin flash tape, to hold panel lines accurately. Thanks for your awesome input:)
@frostyjim2633 Жыл бұрын
Not bad for a first try
@karstenkeddy5319 Жыл бұрын
Only thing is that theres several types of metals used so the fenders are aluminum and so forth so not everything is chipped dark brown. Just a thought but still nice tho
@c123bthunderpig Жыл бұрын
Although posted 7 years ago, an excellent build of an iconic British fighter, however, not to nit pick - the seat belts are a bit of " over kill". We did strap in very tightly in that era, but at least we had room to sit down before doing it.
@brodziaktomasz Жыл бұрын
Say exactly what putty, removable with a wet swab, you use to fill large gaps (11:00 recording).
@scalemodelcinema9900 Жыл бұрын
Perfect plastic putty - water based, I also use Mr surfacer 1200 - lacquer based (Mr leveling thinner to remove)
@ckearney9932 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this video I'm just about to glue my a320 neo together and I have my putty at the ready this is only my 2nd model and my first time doing putty using revell plasto so this vid helped me understand a bit more on that cheers 👍🏻🏴👍🏻
@user-du6yr1qx5d Жыл бұрын
Приятное видео.Лайк.
@uxbridgeuk Жыл бұрын
I used to use Dymo tape but found 3M blue tape 471 much better especially around curved areas such as fuselages, it also lasts longer and can be reused a lot more, most of my models I built were vac-forms so required a lot of re-scribing
@SubjectDelta9 Жыл бұрын
FANTASTIC Tutorial! I am about to engage in a new project that requires a lot of precision and have been searching for a tutorial that would cover most of the possible scenarios. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise, it has given me much confidence to proceed without hesitation and be able to enjoy the process in a joyful expectation that the end result will be more than satisfactory. With Gratitude and Appreciation for the Work you do🙏 THANK YOU!
@jimmcintosh184 Жыл бұрын
Awesome video sir! if a gap is as wide as a trench, I use styrene stock to stuff it, and putty to finish it up for sanding
@christopherbrett Жыл бұрын
So, you do commissions? Can we chat?
@scalemodelcinema9900 Жыл бұрын
sure, maybe send an email through the scale model cinema website (just .com.au at end) and we can chat
@igorrabinovich3386 Жыл бұрын
Absolutely Fantastic. Thanks a lot.
@woodybear8298 Жыл бұрын
Nice video, but we don't need the background music.
@Juno58 Жыл бұрын
Very nice finished Tiffy except for the exhaust stains which imho clearly overdone.
@abdaloser Жыл бұрын
Great stuff, rare for me to find a youtuber who shows you the process but in tutorial form. well done!
@rickdee67 Жыл бұрын
Building* not making! 😊
@peskybobcat Жыл бұрын
Boy all that work for paint inside the canopy I would cry
@CFster Жыл бұрын
Do you rescribe the wing root?
@scalemodelcinema9900 Жыл бұрын
Normally its not a panel 'line' per se but more of a panel sitting on top of another panel. I usually will make it straight with a blade. But if it is a clear panel line then yes
@wildolan Жыл бұрын
very useful video. thanks. I got back I to modelling recently after many years. I did a jet wanting to get nice blackbasing and shading as a weathering foundation. I spent ages on it but then went too thick on the finish coats and lost all my efforts. at least it was a learning experience!
@supersonicboom4990 Жыл бұрын
Great videos! I find them very helpful! Which rotary tool do you use?
@scalemodelcinema9900 Жыл бұрын
I use a dremel...the battery powered ones are best for modelling as their RPM is lower and more controlable
@supercededman Жыл бұрын
Thankyou for this instruction, but to be honest I can see way more downside to using resin than injection molded parts. The piping on ribs was a perfect example (for me, at least)!
Пікірлер
wow
I’m glad I found your videos. Thank you for the detail in explanation, video, and editing. The multiple video clips at once almost explain the reasons and differences on their own.
What brand of liquid latex do you recommend? Thank you.
At 4:36, what tool is that to clean up excess wash? Thank you.
Music is too loud! It makes it hard to understand you.
Good video - however the music is way too loud.
how do you get polish out of riveting
Every time I learn more about this hobby I find more processes I should've taken in between steps and more tools and more composites to work with. It is truly a never ending experience and I am all for it.
I like to play with model too.
I like playing model too.
Bel avion ,un chef -d 'oeuvre dans la réalité et en maquette .👍👍👍
Cool. Doing that plane But with french camo. Suscribed. Great job with the bmf!!!
I'm just coming back to modelling after a break of... many years, but with main joins like the fuselage and cowling, I can't see why I shouldn't use sprue goo to glue them together. If it's done carefully, won't that fill the gap at the same time as gluing them together?
The very small parts are very hard to cut off. Much of my experience has resulted in a pile of crumbled little bits of parts which is really upsetting. Not really a fan.
I need a technique to drill a centred hole in a < 1mm piece of plastic rod to simulate a gun barrel?
Thank you!
By far the most professional modelling tutorial videos I’v seen! Thank you.
He best video I’ve seen on this subject - thank you! Where can one get proper putty applicators?
Loads of good tips, but I disagree with the technique and rationale at :50s Been doing this a long, long long time and from an era when the only special modelling tools most modellers had was mum's nail file and an eXacto knife with a single #11 blade. Your suggested technique makes for a lot of unnecessary extra work, AND won't guarantee any cleaner a cut, nor will mine (single cut & cut close) necessarily result in damage. There are exceptions. i.e. A. the kit plastic is exceptionally hard & brittle (Zvezda green used in their Soviet WWII armour) or B. so super soft it squashes like plasticine (Airfix recycled in their anything Made in India kits). The technique keys for a single cut and minimum cleanup on regular quality kits from the likes of Tamiya, Hasegawa, Dragon, Eduard et al are; 1. use a quality pair of reputable brand nippers, Tamiya, Xuron, Mr.Hobby with 2. a very sharp cutting edge, and 3. use the correct (flat) side of the cutting blades close against the part at the correct angle for the part, 4. in good light where you can see properly, and 5. take care in cutting the part away. That way a very clean separation, minimal attention with a knife if even necessary, and a similiar light swipe with a sanding file if at all. Glue. 1.Use a quality brand. 2. Have a variety of glues so you can use the right glue for the part. 3. Less is more. Plastic model parts aren't load bearing. 4. Use brushable capilliary action glues anywhere you can -caveat, if appropriate. e.g. Tamiya Extra Thin, Mr.Hobby Mr Cement S. For pre-application on larger parts, wings etc use regular Tamiya Cement, Mr Hobby Mr Cement both brushables, or Revell Contacta with its accurate tip applicator. Haven't tried cable ties. Back in the old days, we used rubber bands. These days I prefer to use I prefer to use masking tape. Quality painters tape in its varying sizes is good to save on Tamiya, and stronger. Scotch, 3M, Bear. The real key is to buy quality kits with crisp accurately tooled moulds, dry fit and cut/file if at all necessary until the prerequisite fit. For ref. I predominantly built 1/48, 1/32 air and 1/35 armour.
What size rate earth magnets do you use
A few questions.... 1. Why are you using Tamiya Extra Thin for the bonding of large parts in such a manner? Regular Tamiya Cement (white cap stuff) is by far better for parts of that size. 2. Why are you applying it in such a way? I've always thought Tamiya was more effective as a "capillary action" glue (holding the parts together and applying). Not that it won't work your way, but genuinely curious as to why when their white cap stuff will do the same job in one coat (and allow more time to fiddle). 3. Why are you applying polishing compound to unpainted plastic and is it durable for an undercoat before priming? From others experience and guidance, this is definitely a contaminant when it comes to painting, acting as a barrier between paint and plastic.
Where have you gone? Really appreciate your excellent videos. Certainly one of the very best. I know it’s a slog to video and edit, but you’re very talented teacher. Please continue. Hope your well. Regards
Hey what putty is the one that is more liquidity
I am really enjoying these videos. My pal and I are about to our first jump into serious modeling. I have subscribed and shared. Most excellent!
The "building parts you won't see" thing is a big issue with some kits. I'm working on Trumpeter's P-38L-5-LO and both the left and right engines are incredibly detailed with many small parts and intricate rubber hose pieces that were a nightmare to glue in. Then I put the halves together and saw a lot of it was covered. No big deal. But by the time you get the booms attached to the main cockpit fuselage, you see just the very back of the top of the engines and through two small porthole windows on the inside of each boom. I spent a total of two days on each engine, cutting, sanding, fitting, priming, then painting each engine in stages to make sure I had everything perfectly glue and painted from the deepest recesses out. I was hoping there was an option for an 'open engine' or at least a conversion kit I could buy and not have to resort to the good old hobby saw.
I love your videos, but why play the annoying music, it ruins the video. There seems to be some kind of obsession with people feeling that they MUST add must to videos - it is so annoying!
A definitive guide on putty! Thanks!
I was going to try to add rivets to a model that was molded without any, but this looks like it's way too tedious and time-consuming for me. It adds detail that the model needs, but oh well.
1:14 I couldn't imagine what the plane behind the C-27J was, until I looked for it in the other video: a cartoonish B-24. It would have bothered me for years if it weren't for your other video!
When I'm doing rivet work, I use tape as a guide to follow lines consistently, and thin flash tape, to hold panel lines accurately. Thanks for your awesome input:)
Not bad for a first try
Only thing is that theres several types of metals used so the fenders are aluminum and so forth so not everything is chipped dark brown. Just a thought but still nice tho
Although posted 7 years ago, an excellent build of an iconic British fighter, however, not to nit pick - the seat belts are a bit of " over kill". We did strap in very tightly in that era, but at least we had room to sit down before doing it.
Say exactly what putty, removable with a wet swab, you use to fill large gaps (11:00 recording).
Perfect plastic putty - water based, I also use Mr surfacer 1200 - lacquer based (Mr leveling thinner to remove)
Thanks for this video I'm just about to glue my a320 neo together and I have my putty at the ready this is only my 2nd model and my first time doing putty using revell plasto so this vid helped me understand a bit more on that cheers 👍🏻🏴👍🏻
Приятное видео.Лайк.
I used to use Dymo tape but found 3M blue tape 471 much better especially around curved areas such as fuselages, it also lasts longer and can be reused a lot more, most of my models I built were vac-forms so required a lot of re-scribing
FANTASTIC Tutorial! I am about to engage in a new project that requires a lot of precision and have been searching for a tutorial that would cover most of the possible scenarios. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise, it has given me much confidence to proceed without hesitation and be able to enjoy the process in a joyful expectation that the end result will be more than satisfactory. With Gratitude and Appreciation for the Work you do🙏 THANK YOU!
Awesome video sir! if a gap is as wide as a trench, I use styrene stock to stuff it, and putty to finish it up for sanding
So, you do commissions? Can we chat?
sure, maybe send an email through the scale model cinema website (just .com.au at end) and we can chat
Absolutely Fantastic. Thanks a lot.
Nice video, but we don't need the background music.
Very nice finished Tiffy except for the exhaust stains which imho clearly overdone.
Great stuff, rare for me to find a youtuber who shows you the process but in tutorial form. well done!
Building* not making! 😊
Boy all that work for paint inside the canopy I would cry
Do you rescribe the wing root?
Normally its not a panel 'line' per se but more of a panel sitting on top of another panel. I usually will make it straight with a blade. But if it is a clear panel line then yes
very useful video. thanks. I got back I to modelling recently after many years. I did a jet wanting to get nice blackbasing and shading as a weathering foundation. I spent ages on it but then went too thick on the finish coats and lost all my efforts. at least it was a learning experience!
Great videos! I find them very helpful! Which rotary tool do you use?
I use a dremel...the battery powered ones are best for modelling as their RPM is lower and more controlable
Thankyou for this instruction, but to be honest I can see way more downside to using resin than injection molded parts. The piping on ribs was a perfect example (for me, at least)!