This channel is dedicated to showing our viewers interesting how-to and DIY projects as well as reviews on products we like and lastly activities we enjoy. I hope you guys enjoy the videos, we encourage comments and dialog with you. Please subscribe so you'll get updates when we add new vids. Thanks again!
PS- there are sometimes links available to my subscribers which highlight the products or tools I use in my videos. When clicked they may generate some advertising funds which I collect overtime and re-invest into the next tool or review.
Пікірлер
Double din not dual. And a neat way to limit window heights so the dog still stick his snout out but can’t jump out
inonly have a v8 96 but im hoping it works for mine.
On the rear LEFT- disconnect the shock strut and swing it away, that little extra exercise will save you so much time and frustration/swearing. From a previous person unknown, My left lower caliper bolt came out eventually and thank the lord the bolt took much of the cross threading damage, again because the bolt was hampered by the shock, just F it outta the way. Happy days (caliper removal task only)
Thank you friend...the life story gives the shotgun its life. You had a wonderful Dad from the way you tell the history of that shot gun. Although not a shot gun, I grew up target shooting with my Dad his 9 shot Sentinel revolver. Still have that revolver and won't sell it. I remember getting a scolding when I didn't handle the gun safely. I won't forget my Dad's kind but stern lesson. Oh and I saw one of the Remington Model 11's in 16 gauge today at a local Indiana gun store. I may just buy it.
@@bobbeck8697 - Thanks for the kind words. I miss my dad every day. I may post a few more videos about guns that have great histories - I agree, the history is really the treasure. Take care brother. Clay
Fantastic video. Straight to the point and very thorough.
Thanks man! Glad you enjoyed it and hopefully got your rig all set now!
Yeah.. had to replace pump drive/synchronizer. Pain in the A$$. followed another video, 180 out... would idle but die. Got pissed and flipped it 180, perfect, thought to myself 'that ain't the f'in compression stroke but the $$ light agrees, cell light off, I changed because of loud tick at idle. Too much play on syncr shaft, the little phaser basket would rotate around and actually contact the cam position sensor. I thought piston slap or rod knock but w the engine at idle I placed my finger on CPS and could FEEL the ticking. I hope this helps anyone 4.0 forever.... or as long as the frame holds. My new to me 03 is from FL, fingers crossed
Clay got a few questions about the rear end swap on the 67 ?
Fire away, I'll try to answer them...
Air saw goes through like it isnt even there.
I bet that is a good tool to use; not everyone watching has that tho... Thanks man!
Excellent video. Seems like getting the crank bolt to break with your method…a threshold moment for sure. Made me nervous. I have a diesel 80 so a different set up but hopefully someday I will be able to a gas powered 80 owner. Thank you for posting.
Thanks man! Yeah, and I’d love to have a diesel one some day! Appreciate you man.
I got 1994 with a distributor the cam position sensor is on the bell housing how can I make sure the distributor is set right
I believe the sensor on the Bellhousing is the “Crank Position Sensor”. If you still have the dizzy, you set timing by pointing the rotor to the #1 cylinder wire post with the #1 cylinder at top dead center on the compression stroke. Old regular way. Then use a timing light to set timing per manufacturer spec. I don’t recall for your motor what base timing is, but probably close to 8deg BTDC.
@@Texasknowhow Thank You Brother
OK - so my 4.0 will not start after putting in new camshaft. I did the TDC on compression stroke method because it is literally what the service manual for my 2000 jeep xj says to do. What you are saying is the OPPOSITE. I'm going to try it and see if this pig will start for once. I just hope I haven;t already fried my cam lobes by trying to start it so much.
The pin method of alignment is indeed on the exhaust stroke vs compression. But you just have to lift up the cam sensor out of the gears and rotate it 180 degrees if you want to do the set up on compression. The pin just won’t go through that hole this way. Make sure the connector on the cam sensor is pointing straight back as well. The ECM can take it from there and fine adjust the timing.
Also, it should start quickly so don’t keep cranking if it doesn’t. Something else could be preventing the start up. Ensure all your other stuff is connected. Did you replace anything else besides the timing gears and chain?
@@Texasknowhow me and my mechanic have both gone over this and can't figure it out; everything seems fine. But we have this feeling that it may be 180 out of timing. I put a cotter pin in cam pos sensor hole, and while the engine was aligned at TDC on the compression stroke, I slid the cam pos sensr assembly into its place so the gears slipped into the cam, making sure the cam pos sensor connector faced straight back toward the firewall. Now you have me thinking that I just paid 675.00 to a mechanic when all I needed to do was rotate the cam sensor metal flag 180 degrees.
@@whiptips4374 - THIS is exactly why I made the video and finish the video saying, “dots on gears together which is the #1 cylinder exhaust stroke AND pin in the flag”
You get it figured out? Hopefully it’s back running again!
What did you decide to do for your 61? I built a roller 351 to put in my 89 GT, but decided to keep it close to stock, to help it hold its value. So, I bought the 88 GT, that I thought the motor was probably toast, but it wound up just needing the top of the motor. Sooooo.... I'm inclined to probably take the heads and cam out of the 351 and put them in the 302. Too many options.
I snagged a '99 5.0 L from an Explorer about 2 weeks ago. The engine looks to be in good shape - turns over by hand (with a breaker bar) and has compression. was a complete pullout so I have just about everything. Also picked up an AOD Trans from a friend so got the trans to go with it. I need to post up an update now that I have a motor. Thanks for watching, and commenting 89G, appreciate your videos as well. Got to decide if I want to go back to a carb or keep it EFI.... what controller, etc... decisions decisions...
@Texasknowhow the 99 will have P heads. I am running P heads on both of my GT's, currently. They flow decent for a stock head. Can't wait to see an update!
I really like that idea! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome info...new tricks for the trade....
Thk. You!
Just no other way 🤙
I just got to say man, thank you for this video. I used it last year on an LX 450 and just used it today on my new 80 series. Very thorough and all the tips made a big difference.
Awesome! So glad this video continues to help the LC and LX community! Thank you for the kind words and letting me know how it helped you. Pinned your comment.
What did you do for shocks
This is embarrassing, but it still is a project in the works after all these years and I've not put shocks on it yet. There are a few of these video series out there where the guys did the Explorer Rearend so you may want to look for those videos for ideas. Thanks for the question and for watching the video! Take Care, Clay
I mean if it goes on and comes off in the same direction and its only one direction would it actually matter as long as you dont touch or turn anything after you take the old ones off and put the new ones on…. Im sure you can just slip the old one off and put the new one on since it keyed and wont fit any other way
Yes, for a Remove and Replace you are very much correct. The video is more for those that have got the motor un-synced for some reason or have rebuilt the motor and they are going back together.
@@Texasknowhowok so im right neat had me worried thanks for the response even though its an old vid😊
500,000 miles and had to put pads on her today. I wonder how many sets of pads she had up until now but she is good to go for another 50,000 at least before she will need another set. GREAT VIDEO '96 Lexus LX450
That’s awesome. Still have mine and still big smile every time I drive it. I’ve changed my rear brakes out once again since this video was made. This last time I pulled the axles out and repacked the axle bearings as well. Was a good service. I got about 38k miles out of the EBC brakes. I think I had them engaging too strong as my front to rear bias valve never was re adjusted after my lift. I went back with Power Stop pads and rotors this last time.
Will this also keep your keyfob from not working because I replaced keyfob battery and still does not work going to check this wire later
Thank you very much thank you very much you have nice Holiday this year
Yahweh.....wasn't he the real estate agent who gave Israel to the Jews and hates the Pala....I mean Amalakites, especially their kids??'
Hi, I have a 2000 LC100 with a 1fz-fe engine and have the same problem as you. I changed the charcoal canister and replaced with an OEM. I still have the pressure and swoosh every time I open the fuel tank. It’s eating my head I don’t know what the problem could be. Please help!
It may be a bad purge/vent valve. Check to see if the vent valve is working by jumping voltage to it and listening to see if it clicks open.
So I just got a 4.0 and they guy replaced the timing chain messed it up so I gotta figure out how to fix it how can I get it to spin and get to those to dots ?
If you turn the crank (by hand with a socket on the crank bolt) and feel resistance, stop. I can’t remember if these are interference engines or not (I should know, but don’t) the pistons could be hitting the valves. There may already be damage. But start by taking all the plugs out so it’s easier to mess with. Then take the timing chain off by removing cam sprocket. They are both keyed so you can’t get it wrong going back on. Work to get the sprockets aligned such that the dots are together while they are keyed on their respective shafts. Put the chain back on. Now that you have that correct, follow the short video. By the way, he may have it correct already. The dots only align every other complete turn of the crank. On the non-aligning turns the cam dot will will be opposite side (up on top). Hope this helps.
@@Texasknowhow thank you so much man i will definitely try to the guy that had it replaced it guess he didn’t no how to put the cam back like it should when he started it the motor sounded decent but had like a small knocking sound ? Should I just replace motor or is it worth it to try to save it
@@SLINGING_MUD_SINCE1994 - unrelated to the cam timing these engines are known to develop piston slap which sounds like a rod knock to some degree. Many including myself have daily driven them with the slap for many more miles. If that is what it is…
@@Texasknowhow yea bro haha that’s what it sounds like
maybe 1 cell is sulfated and battery just needs to be zapped with a welder to desulfate ? look at 9:00 on Project Farm "Can You Restore a Dead Car Battery With Welder"
May have worked. I got about 5 years out of it. The shock it with a welder thing could blow up and make a real mess.
Only works if battery is connected to car and running.
Did the acceleration / pedal feel better?
Yes it did. Still very nice and just like it should be from the factory.
Cleared up my confusion as to stroke position. Thanks
Got that problem for sure
What size drill bit do you use the only 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.0 straight? 6 to the time it
I think it was the 1/8” bit. One of the small ones in a bit box kit.
It is normal for the door controls to stay on when I turn off the truck.
They usually will so you can roll up the windows and lock the doors etc. But once you open the door (any door) they usually get shut off. The "stay on" power will also time out in about 30 sec on most vehicles.
I have my uncle’s model 11 with a 32 inch full choke watching him shoot high flying ducks pass shooting was a pure joy! Miss him an those good old days hunting!!!
I bet that will really reach out there. Thanks for commenting. Love these model 11s.
I wonder if straw bales would work.
I believe they’d be fine.
I am stumped. I have questions. I bought a 4.0 with the coil pack and synchronizer. I replaced the head, chain, ECU, water pump, crankshaft position sensor (ntk), coil pack, and camshaft position sensor . It was cranking with no start. I’ve played with the synchronizer and can get it to start but it runs really rough and will die if I attempt to put it into drive. Sometimes there is a backfire if I move the synchronizer in different positions. I’m lost on getting it running smoothly. There is spark, compression, and fuel. I’m leaning on shorted wire? Flywheel cracked? Also, just to clarify . When I changed the timing chain. Are you saying in your video that when the dots face each other I’m in exhaust stroke and the holes with a pin on the synchronizer should line up with the cuff/slip pointing to 5:00 from passenger side to be set correctly? I want to make sure I’m not 180 degrees off because the Haynes manual and other videos say to position to tdc on the compression stoke with the holes lined up on the synchronizer! Haha I’m so confused now. My Jeep will start either way but it’s rough idle with three codes popping up. P0353 , P0352, P0351. I also double checked my timing chain because I was unsure with the mini backfire. Thanks! Someone help!
These engines will run (very poorly) with that sensor (the cam position sensor where an old distributor would have been) is 180 deg out of sync. This is because the design of the ignition system is a “waste spark” system. There are only 3 coils in the coil pack. Each coil fires two plugs each time. One of the plugs is firing at the correct timing and the other plug is firing during the exhaust stroke of the “waste spark” cylinder. So if you are 180 deg off, it will run, but very poorly as the waste spark isn’t really timed correctly for normal ops. I think you are still 180 out of time. Rotate the distributor cam sensor 180 deg from where you are and point the wires on top almost straight back. If you get the timing close (wires straight back to rear of the vehicle), the ECM can fine tune the spark timing from there. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the quick response! I’ve tried putting my 1999 grand Cherokee in compression and tried exhaustion strokes tdc but still runs rough either way. Is it designed to be setup on exhaust stroke with the pins lined up on the synchronizer? Thanks for all your help!
@@jacobbutler9875 - I can’t explain it any better than the video really. That’s why I made it haha. Maybe walk through your process with another mechanic friend or relative and show them this video prior so they are ready. Only other thing is if your sensor is missing the little hole in the flag (as some have commented) then you just have to look at where I’m aligning mine and get it as close as you can. You can probably get it done that way.
Very informative video man, good job. I think I decided that I’m going to pull my engine out. Don’t want to but it’s coated in oil and I feel like it would just be easier to clean all the mess😩😩😩
Yeah, if you end up pulling it you can do so much more to complete a “reseal” of the engine. Get that Pesky Heater Hose on the back of the engine as well. Good luck with it!
@@Texasknowhow I had ordered that years ago just in case.
Terrible idea. That is the weakest point of the bracket. Cut the 2 welds that are there and re weld is the right way.
Yep, that is what I did if you watch the video a little further. 😊
Nice job i made my own tube with treads N/F and all the rest of brackets from outcast thks for the videos
Awesome, always pays to have skills to make your own parts! Thanks for the compliment and for commenting. Best to you and your project! -Clay
My dad passed and i was givin the 11 and it was the gun i learned to shoot on..... you could take all my guns but not that one.......ever... thank you for shareing wonderfull story man!
Thanks for the comment man. Enjoy that gun. Keep it in the family. Take care, Clay
What about if it’s distributor cap and rotor on 93 XJ?
I’ve not personally done this on a older XJ, but I’ve timed many engines with Distributors and they are all very similar. I would still put the dots together on the timing set of gears/chain. Then I would bring the #1 cylinder up on its compression stroke. Need the valve cover off to make sure both intake and exhaust are on the base circle of the cam (not pushing down on the valves). Then set the distributor in the engine such that the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug tower on the cap. This may take a few attempts as the dizzy will twist some as it engages the cam gear in there. Once you have it close you can rotate the dizzy slightly either way to get it spot on. This will be usually close enough to start the engine. Then connect a timing light and set the timing soon after it starts by slightly advancing the timing or retarding it to specifications. Guessing here, but at about 700 rpm (idle) it will probably be somewhere between 6-10 degrees BTDC as seen with a strobe timing light on the crank timing pointer. Make sure if the dizzy has a vacuum advance hose it is disconnected for this setting. Also plug the hose with something so you don’t introduce a vacuum leak.
💯💯💯
Just had a new engine put in my 92, and the throttle stuck on me, looked down and the little black bracket is broken on the firewall engine side (that one you had hard time pushing onto the cable). Thanks for this video, I think I can do this one, shop that did the work is swamped with rodeo people with broken trailers.
Glad it is helping you get it fixed man. Rodeo?, where are you located? Take care, Clay
Gillette Wyoming
I have same problem I am not getting any power at all to door jam. Tested with voltage tester and i got nothing , does that mean bad ground?
Watch the video again closely. The wires break inside their insulation. Usually right inside that transition boot in the door jam. You’ll have to find it like I show in the video…
I know it's been a while, but I am currently doing a crown vic ifs swap on a 86 f150, how did the por 15 hold up? I looked it up and people love it or hate it.
If you do the prep correctly it works well. I think people don’t have the patience sometimes and hurry the process. Mine is still awesome. Folks that see my frame think I recently painted it. IF you let it get too much sun light it will become dull and lose that glossy look. But it stays on!
@Texasknow how how did you prep the frame, did you sandblast or wire wheel and is it OK if some old paint is left behind? thanks for the reply and awesome videos!
what ever happened to your 67?
It’s been patiently waiting on me to continue the build. I got sidelined for the past 6 years with work and car flips to put two kids through college. They have both graduated now, so I’m moving and trying to get set back up to ramp the channel back up to speed! I have 3 big projects planned, the ‘67 finish out is one of them. Thanks for asking - just that interest in my channel and projects helps with the motivation. 😊
25:42 I miss the Sears tools!
Me too! Ace Hardware only has a small fraction of the Craftsman line…
Fantastic vid, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Excellent video. Tha k you for taking the time to make this.
hay clay just got a fb freind request from u ,y/n
Hi have you replaced the TPS yet? Just curious I’m having issues with a higher idle around 950 rpm at all times …. Don’t know if it’s a easy or more involved setup wise to the TPS stuff
I’ve not done that. Have you tried some Throttle body cleaner? May allow it to close the throttle completely if that is the issue. Also I think there is a IAC on these. Can clean that real good.
Yep 🤣