Hi I'm AJ, well that's one of many nicknames I have, but anyways thanks for checking out my channel.
After moving from Ohio to North Carolina I started this channel to keep my family and friends updated on my life as well as document my trials and tribulations of my projects, experiments and attempts as enjoying life through all my interests (motorcycles, Jeeps, hot rods, music, ukulele, skateboarding, darts, surfing...) and learning new things. Maybe along the way I'll be able to pass along some of the knowledge and stories I've collected along the way. Who knows where this is all going but hopefully someone will find some enjoyment out of it! Please SUBSCRIBE, LIKE and COMMENT!
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Removing those valves are so simple I have two variations of the spring removal tool, I got a long skinny one and the regular, and it is absolutely simple to remove the springs, kind of like doing 8 lawn mowers😂
They were a lot easier to remove in my other motor that was free but this one was a bear. Almost every lifter and valve was rusted in place! Thanks for watching!
@@AJStarch always like to see an old V8 Flathead, it's where it all started, I wonder if one of these new Camaros are Corvettes going to last 100 years or more, like that old flattie!💯
Are these made in the same orphanage in Asia?
I don’t know but they did a good job with them.
Yeah u have the right idea. 👍
@@VinoRatRodbuilds Thanks, I believe very strongly in responsible gun ownership.
Thanks for the video. I didn't want to bother the hubby with how to get the handle to collapse. I just needed a bit more strength to pull the lever out.
@@lslinder1 You’re welcome, glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed watching im starting out as a hobby myself.
Thanks for watching! Hang in there, it can be frustrating at times but flatheads are really cool motors!
I'm curious, to anyone that owns these, if there's anyway you can open the case up, so you could see the inside of the case molding, and tell is if you see what material it says. It should say the material in a code somewhere. Like PA6-GF30, or PA6, or PA6-GF15, etc. Also really recommend changing any grease in it to a higher quality grease, if possible.
Well I’m not opening mine up unless I have to, I use it too much! 🤣
@@AJStarch Reason I ask is I know Eastwoods case material uses some form of glass filled/reinforced polymer. Most likely something like PA6-GF30 or PA6-GF20 (either 30% or 20%). I don't see much, if any at all, of the usual glint/glare that glass filled polymer has when I looked at the Bauer in store. It also seemed to scratch easier than a glass filled polymer usually does. So I was just curious if there's any in it at all. It might help explain some or all of the main weight difference as well, if there's none in it. Or less in it. Generally tool grade Polymer mixes are usually between 30% - 15%, but I've seen these mixes as low as 5%. Or none at all. Having none at all can make a part lighter, but you lose some structural rigidity, strength, and toughness.
@@BigBear-- Ah, I see what you’re getting at now. Could very well be where some of the cost difference is obtained.
@@AJStarchYes. In part not only due to the actual material cost, but the production cost. Glass filled polymer wears out the molds used to make them (more than regular polymer or plastic), the process is also overall more expensive, and often requires more monitoring and occasional mold alteration/adjustment as they produce the run. You can sometimes even tell if they adjusted the mold manually by the internal marks inside the various tool clam shells/covers. If you ever see various rough looking lines or edges molded into the part (particulary near the inside edges) that's often someone at the factory having to lay down a manual weld bead inside the mold, or manually grind some part out. Usually so the part either stays inside the mold, is easier for a robot to pick it up to work with, or to get them to release out of the mold easier.
Yeah got mine for $89.99, it was on sale for Inside Track Club Members. I would also add that Eastwood sells both scaling drums, and steel wire brush drums for these. Along with a line of narrow drums (with various drum options), as well. The scaling wire, and steel brush drums are awesome at stripping paint, scale, and rust in particular (especially on pitted surfaces). Much more so than the regular stripping drum. Def should check those out. Also btw, recently I've seen the Eastwood on sale as low as $112ish, and is currently on sale for $129, for those interested.
I do have a wire brush drum on mine now and agree with how effective it is. I’ve also notice the sale prices on Eastwood’s have really narrowed the price gap. I bet they’re not too thrilled about the Bauer version cutting into their profit margin! Thanks for watching!
Might have taken you a while, but determination won out.
@@VinoRatRodbuilds I’m not good but at least I’m persistent! 🤣
With the general observation of the state of the lifter valley and the poor condition of the valve seat areas..... are thinking this block is worth a rebuild?? I'm a novice as well but I'm not sure on that one. Enjoyed watching!
@@BoxcarsGarage Honestly I have no idea yet, this is a learning experience for me so I just consider it a practice motor right now. But I also haven’t seen anything catastrophic yet either, so maybe. I think the bad areas between some of the valves and their respective cylinders will be ok as that part will be relieved for better flow anyway. Regardless I’m ok with the time spent tearing it down because I’m learning a lot!
Just an idea... You can use the stretcher on the hat flange. You will need to stretch the "vertical" of the flange with a body hammer and an I beam or anvil of some sort directly next to the stretched flange. That will result in the wide section just warping to fit. That will work especially well with the twisted action you need at the corners.
@@clarkmarkey1498 Thanks for the ideas Clark, I’m definitely going too explore different methods when I go to do the rear section!
Nice ride
Thank you!
Also check the oil pan rails of the block for cracks. The block surface that the pan bolts to, is what I mean. Doesn't look too bad, so far, to me....
Will do when I get to that point. Still trying to get the valves out now! Thanks for the advice!
Sorry I can't help with any flathead info. I've never had one and they are quite hard to find here in New Zealand, and expensive too I think. Would be great to get one for the track t roadster I'm wanting to build. I'm still following along with your build and look forward to the videos. Keep it up. Cheers, Glen.
You can get em from free to $10k here depending on how much work you want to put into them, but they’re still fairly plentiful. Thanks for watching Glen!
Well I've never had a flathead apart. One thing I did see is that it didn't look like it was too much trouble getting the bolts out, which is a plus in my book.
The intake and head bolts came out easier than expected. I only broke two out of like 60ish bolts so I’ll take that! Getting out the broken two will be challenging though. 🤣
The lifter valley having sludge is better than being rust in my opinion. Might make the valves and guides easier to extract. Those are some of the areas of most concern when it comes to cracks. Good luck.
Oh I wish that was my case! Spoiler alert but I’ve got half of the valves out now and it was anything butt easy! Hope the second half isn’t as painful! 🤣
Compare video without the other to compare it to lol
@@dannyboyd1299 I was comparing it to the advertised features and price point of the Eastwood. When the HF SCT came out anyone considering it already knew the Eastwood worked great but was expensive, so this was to highlight the HF’s features, performance and cost. Thanks for watching!
Slight chop
@@Trump2024-p4h How slight? I’m leaning towards the lower frame in the video which is about half of the windshield.
Tall
Tall would be different for sure!
I like it how it sits now ❤
@@RobertNabbefeldt Thanks!
Keep it tall just in case those bugs behitting you lol also it can give u a option of a soft top with more vision 😂
@@DeathHelper420 still don’t know if I’ll ever add a top but I am considering it and it would definitely be more room with a taller windshield… then again I’ve never been practical when it comes to cars. 🤣
Chop
Yep, think I have to!
I had assumed you were going to chop it but I kind of like the way it looks unchopped now. Which is no help, I realize that.
Originally the plan was definitely to chop it, but I mocked it up tall just for fun and felt the same way. But I’m still going to chop it… at least I’m pretty sure I am… 🤣
@@AJStarch I guess a lot of it depends on what kind of paint job you're going to give it. Some designs would work better on a larger canvas.
Believe I'd have too...then buy some old bomber goggles if nessary.
Yeah I’m definitely leaning towards the chop. Already have the goggles but need a leather aviator helmet!
Pretty sharp!!
@@kevinshorter5861 Thanks man! 🙏
Chop😊
@@gratefuldawgs2738 yeah, I’m pretty sure that’s the way I’m going!
Im most impressed with your peaceful looking little neighborhood and nice driveway 👍
@@andre1987eph Thank you, we’re lucky to be able to have such a nice neighborhood and I love the driveway for skateboarding! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video! Those pins were so annoying in the beginning. This video was much easier to follow then the included instructions
@@vanessapervaiz1053 Glad it helped you out, thanks for watching!
well done Im gonna give it a go cheers 👍
@@tboyz1 Go for it, it isn’t that hard. Just go slow and methodically, good luck!
Never cut towards yourself with a blade.
@@75YBA Yep, agree but there’s always exceptions to the rule. 🤣 Thanks for watching!
This could be one of those dumb ways to die vidieos
@@bobhalstead1879 🤣 I agree! Definitely one of those “Do as I say, not as I do” situations and I do not recommend this method. I’ll be building a spreader tool before I take it apart!
Use a peice of all thread 2 ft long
@@bobhalstead1879 All I had on hand was 1/4” so I had to make do with what I had.
I made my spreader with a 5 dollar bumper jack
@@bobhalstead1879 Cool idea, I’ll have to keep my eye out for one to make my own spreader bar. Thanks for watching!
You pulled er out. Maby next time instead of forming the complete hat channel...stop at the first 90 then shrink or stretch...then a tipping die for the next 90. Or....make it as you did...then slice to contour and weld up.
Shrinker/stretcher & tipping dies is the plan for the rear. When I started the front I didn’t have all the tools so I just improvised. I’m hoping the rears will go faster and easier!
dannnnnng man... look at that! dimple dies and all... thats sharp
lol. Thanks dude! I’m loving the dimple dies… at this point I’m just looking for stuff to use them on.
Well they turned out very nicely It's too bad you are going to cover them up.
Thanks Vino, they’ll be expose for a while yet, it’s going to be quite some time before it’s ready for interior and I learn to sew!
I stopped buying new drills. I keep an eye out for people selling the old black HSS bits a lot cheaper but they seem stronger.
Good thinking! Thanks for watching!
Good modifications!
Thanks Randie!
Right on! Awesome job. 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
I agree 200% about the handle. My self-propelled bar came loose and the cable came off. Now how to figure out where it is to pull back out to reconnect to the bar.
Love your instructions. Question.... any tricks on getting that roll pin in. Maybe I just need to hit the hammer harder? Any good advice out there?
Ok.... figured it out..... I needed to use my real hammer and not be nervous. Aha.... on to the next step.
@@barbmartell7901 Glad my instructions helped and that you figured it out! Yeah, it does take some force to drive it in… to anyone else trying to get it in, you can hold the pin with a pair of pliers so you can give it some solid whacks within fear of hitting your fingers. Thanks for watching!
I've worn many shoes...Mama said they take me anywhere! Nice kicks
I just looked up on the worldwide web and they have welding spatter covers for shoes
Great advice. Comfort, durability, and style. Always good things to keep in mind. I noticed in an old video you had a cool, long sleeve, welding shirt. Where did you pick that up?
That welding shirt was my Dad’s so I have no idea where he got it. He gave it to me since he doesn’t use it anymore. It’s great when it’s cooler out but it is to hot for the summers here.
You can't use ft drums because they won't accommodate the park brake shoes
Probably could have machined something 100x as strong for relatively the same cost 😂
I would agree except I bought it used at a fraction of the original price and put $6.00 into it to make it do what I need.
I bet it was delivered by ups
Haha could be… I didn’t see who actually delivered it though. Thanks for watching!
18:37 🤣
Yeah, it was handy and I was just starting them… looks silly but it did its job 🤣 Thanks for watching!
Hey, can you weld stainless steel with this Cheers..
The manual says carbon steel and aluminum but I did weld some thin scraps of magnetic stainless steel with it. I didn’t have anything thicker pieces or non-magnetic stainless to try it on though. Thanks for watching!
It's amazing how quickly anti-inflammatory's work, isn't it? I wondered why we hadn't seen any skate videos for a while and I'm glad you're on the mend. I had a problem with my right wrist several years ago and after a bunch of PT, a cortisone shot, and a consult with an orthopedic surgeon who told me that he could operate but it was only be a short-term fix so he wasn't going to operate, my family doc casually suggested I might want to try some ginger and turmeric supplements from the drugstore. With the exception of the cortisone shot, nothing I had tried before worked at all. Those silly drugstore supplements got me full range of motion within 72 hours. Anti-inflammatories rock!
Any suggestions on what ginger and turmeric supplements? I was already considering them but it’s always good to hear of first hand success!
@@AJStarch I've had good luck with Nature's Bounty brand supplements. Ginger seems to be ginger, no matter who grinds it up and puts it in a pill. There's more variation in turmeric brands; some are whole plant and some are standardized curcumin and it's the standardized ones that you want. There's parts of the turmeric plant that don't do anything for you. I took whatever it said on the side of the jar and doubled it but since you are already taking an anti-inflammatory, I'm not even sure I would take any of these without talking to your doctor or their nurse practitioner or PA first.
I’m glad to see all of us “older guys” in this brotherhood of skating. I’m 50 and waiting until 06/01 to start skating again. Simply put, switched jobs and waiting out the 60 days for new insurance to kick in. Took a fall 2-3 years ago when I first started skating again and my left shoulder is still pretty tweaked. I play adult hockey so impact wasn’t a big deal but the twisting/tweaking has caused constant pain, I wake up sore everyday. I’m trying to focus on core, mobility, flexibility in addition to my skating. I’m building some ramps soon, starting with a 17” mini ramp similar to Keen ramps trainer ramp. Keep at it!
Smart decision waiting for coverage! Medical bills can pile up fast and make a mess of your life. I used to play hockey too, so I know how that goes. I quit when I was around 40 because in one game I thought I broke my arm in the first period, sat the second and felt good enough to go back out in the third and then thought I broke my leg and had to be helped off the ice. Finished the season and decided to quit. Plus all the adult games were late at night and that was getting rough because I traveled for work. Good luck on that ramp, wish I had space for a permanent ramp like that.
@@AJStarch we travel 1.5 hours each way for our adult league, I live in the south. Even worse getting home bruised and stiff from the trip. Starting with a few “garage ramps” to drag out from time to time, then maybe a mini-ramp