Пікірлер

• 
  @kevenc5 күн бұрын

  Robbins is the worst. I had 3 tops fail on my Miata. The first failed in 1 year, the second in 3 years, and the third one just failed in only 4 years. Both of the last ones had the rear window literally fell out from sitting in the Texas sun! They never paid for getting my window installed for the warranty service. Somehow they; decided that since I had installed it, it wasn't "professionally" done, so they wouldn't pay. I'll never buy another Robbins top. I hope you have better luck.

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  @filibertoprietopc502812 күн бұрын

  Vey good informative video thanks

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  @buciolove134613 күн бұрын

  😩

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  @ethanpeikari904714 күн бұрын

  Hey I was wondering what seats you have ?

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  @YarkoBeatz16 күн бұрын

  @16 mins, I completely missed this and torn from the connector. No idea where these cables connect to the connector now, advise?

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  @azizsaputra19 күн бұрын

  do i need alignment for wheel after control arm replacement ?

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  @OGPedXing19 күн бұрын

  Yes, it is a good idea to do one.

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  @nfsjunkie9125 күн бұрын

  1:32 - the Simple algorithm is not PID control. When using simple, it compares reported AFR to target AFR. If it's richer, it decreases EGO Correction by the Controller Step Size %, if it's leaner, it increases EGO correction by the Controller Step Size %. You will notice that Controller Step Size % is disabled when you select the PID algorithm. 8:34 - MegaSquirt uses a type C PID controller for nearly all PID loops; the P term is uncoupled from the SP and cannot correct error. If you only use the P gain and zero out the other gains, it will only react to changes in the PV, but it cannot reduce error except by accident. The I gain must be used for any error correction to occur. Note that in a beta release of MS3 firmware there was an attempt to use a type B controller but based on the latest MS3 firmware release notes (1.6.0) I don't believe that change was used in production. Additionally in MS3, the Generic Closed-Loop options lets you choose between type B and type C, but you cannot make this choice for idle/EGO/boost PID loops.

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  @user-vg2eg6zw1j25 күн бұрын

  great guide thanks

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  @xtreme_plus38728 күн бұрын

  Hey OGped, I am trying to find the Trubo Kitty base turbo map. I don't see it linked in the video description and I couldn't find one on their website. Could you post the link? I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

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  @trishacavanaughXx7229 күн бұрын

  This was incredibly informative and helpful! Thank you!

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  @VegginInVT29 күн бұрын

  Why would you do this???

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  @OGPedXing29 күн бұрын

  Wife wanted a change and it's completely reversible. Also protects the paint and hides minor dings.

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  @FlumazenilАй бұрын

  Didn't show us shit. Waste of time.

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  @theoriginaltm66Ай бұрын

  This is a fantastic video

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  @3lm3rfuddАй бұрын

  How much power can the Toyota COPs support?

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  Typically about 250hp on the na1.8. You may be able to squeeze out a bit more by decreasing the spark plug gap.

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  @3lm3rfuddАй бұрын

  @OGPedXing Sweet! I'd love to just use the R8 COPs but I'm running the MS3X which can't fire them correctly. Currently sitting at 230whp on my turbo NB2 and not looking to go past 250 as the motor and trans are stock so these should be good enough

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  @3lm3rfudd I ran at 230ish with Toyota Cops for a while with no problems at the stock gap. You can watch for blowout at the top of your boost range by logging and looking for drop offs in power and a sudden richness spike in the afr. If you see that, then just gap the plugs down a bit like .035 or .030.

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  @3lm3rfuddАй бұрын

  @OGPedXing Thanks! It's awesome how much good info you share. Been tuning my EBC with the help of your other vids, just gotta figure out closed loop so I can boost by gear now. Not confident enough to try the transistor mod to make the ms3x fire the R8 cops

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  @3lm3rfuddАй бұрын

  Isn't 190kpa like 28psi?

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  The kpa scale in tuner studio is absolute, meaning it includes regular atmosphere. So it's about 14 psi of boost. Assuming you are at sea level and 100 kpa is the normal air pressure.

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  @3lm3rfuddАй бұрын

  @@OGPedXing I knew I was thinking of it wrong lol

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  @twitchkillgod2985Ай бұрын

  What are torque specs on the lower control arms

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  This link has the correct info: www.fcpeuro.com/blog/how-to-replace-control-arms-end-links-tie-rods-ball-joints-bmw-e90-x1-325i-328i-330i-335i

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  @j25603Ай бұрын

  Awesome video. Still helping in 2024. 🔥🔥

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  @almuz73Ай бұрын

  On 14:09 , there are two sockets fron the coils, how do you connect this to the single oem socket ?

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  If you have an earlier Miata, 90 thru 93 then you'll have a single plug for the ignitor vs 94 and up have two plugs for the 2 coil packs. The wiring in general is similar but I haven't seen a female plug for that sold that will go into your oem harness directly, unfortunately. What most do is cut off the plug from the oem side and wire it to your new cops harness directly. There are some decent diagrams here wiki.fome.tech/Vehicle-Specific/Mazda-MX5-Miata/Miata-COP-Conversion/

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  @jwbodeyАй бұрын

  So I managed to break all three clips when removing the hood over the dash. Does the hood have to be replaced now? Thanks for your video.

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  Some plastic jb weld works well on those clips. It may break again if you remove it a second time, but it will hold and not rattle.

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  @jwbodeyАй бұрын

  @@OGPedXing Thank you. Good stuff. Going to put grease on the clips when I re install the hood.

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  @msrtaha6174Ай бұрын

  Do you have to do every control arm at ride height or only these??

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  @e34boat88Ай бұрын

  any idea why i have ve value of 70 in idle? seems high. i have all settings correct for injectors. deadtime, size, required fuel. i have 2000cc engine 940cc injectors 4x, fuel press ia correcr and e85 as fuel. im bit lost here

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  It can vary. The number itself is somewhere from 0 to 255, so your setup and hardware needs 70 at idle while someone else with a 1.6 engine, other injectors will be lower. If your idle is stable and at the afr you want, then you are good. If your map is too high at the top (you're running a lot of boost and you are close to 255) you can modify required fuel and then bring your map numbers down. But usually, it won't matter.

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  @e34boat88Ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing okay now i can relax and just tune the car in peace. thank you😊

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  @e34boat88Ай бұрын

  my car only runs for few secs and dies. i belive its running on the extra fuel it gets when it cranks. also it backfires when i press gas but timing is correct. im so lost😭

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  @OGPedXingАй бұрын

  Running a few seconds is a good start...crank fuel is probably ok, and after start enrichment (ase) is enough but warm up enrichment is too low. For now increase that. You may need to up the fuel ve table in general, but you can get that fixed after warmup is done. Once your fuel ve is stable for idle, then you can decrease the warmup enrichment a bit because the next time you start, it will be rich. Ase and wue require a few cold starts to dial it in.

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  @e34boat88Ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing i cranked the warmup enrichemt to the moon and it worket well. i also had to move the location of missing tooth because it was too far away and it messed with timing when it started. thanks for the help!!

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  @alanlewis822 ай бұрын

  Excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to post!

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  @Mister_G2 ай бұрын

  One of the best series of videos on turbocharging an MX5 / Miata on KZread. Don't understand why you don't have loads more views.

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  @OGPedXing2 ай бұрын

  Thanks, much appreciated!

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  @mofidgorgis20592 ай бұрын

  When i first start the car the idle is going higher and higher , i don not want to brake my new rebuild motor :( Is it the fuel or the spark issues? The idle valv is working. Just on/off 12V BTW! Very educational video! 👍

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  @OGPedXing2 ай бұрын

  If your idle valve is just open closed rather than pulse width modulation, then you may need to do a manual adjustment with the idle screw. Almost always, idle rpm is going to be related to air and not fuel or spark.

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  @mofidgorgis20592 ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing yes, that is true. My idle valve had quite a big hole even when it was off

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  @garibardyguillen01012 ай бұрын

  Great video.

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  @erwinblommers3492 ай бұрын

  First fix your oil leak , then your belt and parts 😅

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  @OGPedXing2 ай бұрын

  It's a bmw. It will leak. This was after fixing oil filter gasket leaks, though.

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  @Dieselpwr2 ай бұрын

  Buy real tools and you won’t have a issue

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  @OGPedXing2 ай бұрын

  Haha, whatever 🤣 😂 😜

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  @honda636hp2 ай бұрын

  Is this coil have IGF wire?

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  @OGPedXing2 ай бұрын

  It comes with everything you need to connect to the stock wiring plus an extra wire and fuse that goes to direct to the fuse box's battery positive input so it can get extra amps than what the stock wiring can handle. But for the ignitor wiring, it just plugs right in.

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  @honda636hp2 ай бұрын

  I have Saab 2.0L turbo. It have 4 connectors and one is igf.

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  @OGPedXing2 ай бұрын

  @honda636hp I checked and it's 5 pin: trigger, bat pos, bat negative, sensor ground, and engine ground. You may need to check what the ecu on the Saab requires. Some require a tacho out signal on the igf wire and I don't think this one does that.

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  @honda636hp2 ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing it's a : Ionization signal to CDM

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  @mikehaggerty92332 ай бұрын

  I just wanted to say, you did a great job explaining every step you need to adjust your parking brake. It made my life a lot easier.This coming from a old guy with a bad back… Thanks.

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  @DarkDMD2 ай бұрын

  Any chance you'll ever do a closed loop video?

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  @Calualu2 ай бұрын

  @calualu #music 👀

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  @mrmarcink13002 ай бұрын

  “Didn’t get that filmed it’s just 3 bolts straight into the engine block” Riiiiight! Haha after you edited out all the cussin and walk-in around didnt have much after that eh? I didn’t either

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  @johnparton923 ай бұрын

  So which way does the pulley bolt come off??

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  @behnammohajeri70473 ай бұрын

  Talking too much

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  @DarkDMD3 ай бұрын

  hey man - if I wired into my Miata's MAF wires, what is the output setting for the boost control?

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  @OGPedXing3 ай бұрын

  Most miata specific tune files have it already set up to be the "Boost" option on the output drop down.

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  @DarkDMD3 ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing I dont know why, but I think through updates, its now called High Power 2. I ended up using the 12v from the MAF red/white and then just running my own cable to the rear options connection port R

• 
  @DarkDMD3 ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing Oh I meant to ask, does the 9V test when this is used for a dual port external wastegate?

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  @stephanegenest67933 ай бұрын

  I know it's a longtime ago but it could help us if in the future use a Lazer pen too point at which bolts or any parts .you may be the only one on KZread to do so ! You May gain more support for your chanel 😇

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  @stephanegenest67933 ай бұрын

  Oh nice gas cap may I ask where did you get this purchase 😮. I will appreciate. Thanks

• 
  @OGPedXing3 ай бұрын

  It's an obx racing gas lid. Used to be on ebay and Amazon for about 100 bucks.

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  @matthewmoilanen7873 ай бұрын

  Not to contradict but Alcohol burns slower and less "explosively" than gas. But it burns longer so and applies less combustion pressure but for a longer period of time to effectively apply more total pressure to the crank through the piston and rod. This is why alcohol makes more power and is less destructive to internal engine parts. As a side note on alcohol dirt mods we find that typically we don't or shouldn't add more timing as it doesn't add any power. The longer burn time on the power stroke seems to be the big benifit and using that up by advancing timing won't provide any advantage.

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  @OGPedXing3 ай бұрын

  In my research, the laminar flame speed of ethanol is .455 meters per second vs .4 m/s for gasoline. That's what I was referring to. That doesn't necessarily contradict your points, though. Full combustion is different from flame speed. On a dyno, you will typically be able to get more power in any part of the curve where gasoline was knock limited by advancing the timing. Other places, it won't help and may lower mbt.

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  @matthewmoilanen7873 ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing According to the national institute for health combustion rates for gasoline are faster than for alcohol and flame speed propagation in a non enclosed area has no effect on combustion rates. Typically any ability to advance timing has to do with the cooling effect of alcohol fuels when inserted in the fuel air tract of an internal combustion engine as u have stated making it less knock prone. In my years of racing (I'm 63) with a race gas powered car ignition advance can be run as much as 35 total degrees. Alcohol engines tend to rarely use any more than 28. Of course adjustments will probably have to be made in a street driven vehicle.

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  @OGPedXing3 ай бұрын

  @matthewmoilanen787 Hmm, that's not my experience at all. Just with my Miata, 28 degrees is very low...down a lot from max torque. I don't have the paper in front of me, but it is measured in a compressed state (piston) at lambda = 1.

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  @matthewmoilanen7873 ай бұрын

  ​@@OGPedXingOf course you'll want to adjust accordingly for your street driven vehicle, combustion chamber type, valve train type, bore stroke ratio, ect but we and most other dirt or asphalt oval guys seem to settle on about 28-32 max. If u have made Dyno runs and found your ideal to be more than 28 then you should of course do that. Most importantly is that more timing isn't necessarily optimum but it may work well in your case. I have been told by the so called "pro" engine guys that the biggest benefit for them was the increased burn time and pressure application on the power stroke. They have explained that starting the fire too early just pulls power sometimes because combustion pressure starts to rise while the piston is still raising. You seem to be doing a great job on explaining the installation of this control unit and if it works better for you with more advance good on you for finding that out and pulling that last bit of power. Again nice work on the vids as you are a huge help to allot of people trying to work this stuff out!

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  @e34boat883 ай бұрын

  doing first start soon on long time project car and im running e85. thanks alot for this info

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  @ThatRedNismo3 ай бұрын

  Where did bro disappear to

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  @OGPedXing3 ай бұрын

  Haha, still alive. I have some more content filmed but not edited. I'm trying to get back into again. Thanks 😊

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  @ThatRedNismo3 ай бұрын

  I’m restoring a one-owner NA that I bought yesterday, and this is very helpful!

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  @civilwar-xy1cr3 ай бұрын

  Can be done with ratcheting end wrenches. This is not q quick project. Can take all day

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  @ihabahmed11323 ай бұрын

  The ambient temperature in Saudi Arabia can arrive up to 55 degrees C can i use Plastic Dip to paint my car

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  @OGPedXing3 ай бұрын

  I have sprayed at temps up to about 38 c. But I wouldn't go higher than that. The reason is the dip will flash dry almost immediately out of the sprayer, leaving you with a bumpy or grainy texture. A couple of tips to help: spray at night or very early morning, you need about 4 hours or so to get the required number of coats down, although dry time between coats (normally 20 minutes) can be shortened to 10 minutes. 2) Thin the dip first with a little solvent like xylene. This will make for a lighter product going on and it will help with smoothness. Downside is that it is more prone to running, so many lighter coats may be needed. 3) store your dip inside with a/c so the product temp is cooler than the air. I do this in reverse to spray in cold weather (I put the dip in a warm place or in warm water before spraying). Hopefully this will help!

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  @ihabahmed11323 ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing Thank you for your useful tips , will Plasti Dip resist this ambient temperature of 55 C - 130 F or will melt

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  @OGPedXing3 ай бұрын

  Oh yes, after applying it, it can take a lot of heat, no problem. My wheels will get to 100 to 150 c sometimes easily, and I've had no problems.

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  @ihabahmed11323 ай бұрын

  @@OGPedXing Thanks I will give it a try

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  @ppatelpatel16653 ай бұрын

  Not showing how to install it

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  @markhabenicht92194 ай бұрын

  In your video I see a spring on the passenger side of the HVAC box. My 1993 NA does not have this spring, but does have the mounting points for it. Was this spring added in later years, or was mine just missing from the factory?

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  @koldblaze66104 ай бұрын

  I seem to have the most trouble with emblems when dipping my car. When I begin to peel the plastidip off the chrome emblems/words on the back and front of the vehicle the plastidip likes to stick to the actual panel behind it, and so removing the dip off of the emblem then begins to remove dip off of the actual car body panel itself as they join together. Any tips on how to avoid this?

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  @OGPedXing4 ай бұрын

  Sometimes it's because of how the emblems are designed or fitted and there's not much to do. But that said, when spraying that area, make sure it's hitting directly perpendicular to the panel rather than at an angle. This makes it so the front face of the emblem gets plenty of product for good peeling and the panel gets the right amount as well but the emblem sides get less. This will help it break correctly on the emblem side vs the panel side.

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  @peterchan88764 ай бұрын

  can you tell me what is the brand of your new top please? where you but it, there is just too much selection on ebay.

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  @OGPedXing4 ай бұрын

  Check the video description for a couple of links. I personally got the Robbins top with glass. Robbins is top end probably, but I know many who have done Autoberry or Sierra.

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  @tedstriker7544 ай бұрын

  Well, which way do we turn the adjustment screw at the E-brake handle to tighten the cable? You never mentioned that.

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  @OGPedXing4 ай бұрын

  I think it's the standard righty-tighty (clockwise) to tighten the cable.

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  @DORIGTT4 ай бұрын

  Question for you, Would it be better / easier to run something like a Greddy Profec boost controller vs. trying to control boost through megasquirt?

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  @OGPedXing4 ай бұрын

  If you already have the megasquirt wired up, then it will be about the same, so I'd use the ms. The main advantage with a standalone boost controller is you can use other options for your fuel management if desired. The flexibility with the ms, especially ms3x, is you can do all kinds of cool stuff like boost by gear or rpm.