My channel focuses on home hacks for electronics repair, discovered through my own experimentation and projects that can be realized with limited tools using scavenged parts wherever possible.
I am a qualified electronics technician, but always learning driven, and inspired by a general fascination with geeky stuff, such as gadgets, computers cult SciFi, PC games, and ambient music, along with other various subjects of interest, especially if there is a hint of nostalgia involved.
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Hi did it get cold ?? I tried it and didn't get cold?? But compressor working??
Hi, It should run in freezer mode with my hack , but some models maybe different or have different colured wires. If the compressor gives a little kick ,and hums along gently and it dont get cold there maybe another problem , like gas loss.. There is no schematic available so everything is experimental
Man that worst wiring job I ever saw, don't see how you got it to work.
Cool
How will i fix if the batterry not charging?maybe i have wrong wirings
The the yellow and blue wire which one is positive which one is negative on the controller
Hi Yellow is negative on original controller, but best to check with multimeter .Any cheap meter with continuity setting will do it . Please read some of zhe other replys ,to find a detailed explanation on using the continuity setting. Hope this helps
Does the controller limit the top speed, I switched the 350W motor for my e300, but the speed is the same as the original e250W.
Hi The gear ratio has the greatest effect on speed. To increase speed you would need to change the gear sprocket but that's outside my field. Though you could compare it to say a 10 speed bike, where the bigger gears on the back wheel make it easier to pedal uphill but you change to the smaller gears to get faster on the flat surface with less pedalling. What you should get with the bigger motor is more torque from the motor which improves getting up those hills.
For bldc
I'm on the throttle part with two orange wires and two brown wires and I'm trying to do the same conversion that you did the four slot to the six lot I wish I had a picture of the conversion you did any chance of seeing that
Hi . Not sure what you mean . Though remember the 2 yellow wires are negative, the red us power and green is signal which is liw voltage about 1.2 or 3 volts . If you have a multimeter with continuity you can find earth by connecting one end to metal ,say chassis of scooter must be bare metal . And one end to your wire . If it rings its negative, unless shorted but that's another story. Green wire turns on transistor inside controller and current flows . Some more modern throttles have an extra wire 8f using old controller box don't need. Later models will have an extra wire for the thus . It gives mire controlled acceleration due to being possibly connected to a digital potentiometer. Hope that helps . Have fun experimenting
What power supply today would you recommend today?
im upgrading the whole system with a modified vaccum motor and shunted speed controller like you did but the one part i needed help on was the fuzziest quality HAHAAHAHAH just my luck. But i did get a lot from the braking and kill switch identifying because that was one part that wouldve taken me ages to figure out on my own. Thanks again!!!
still abit confused as to how you did the make shift throttle wiring but ill do some basic deduction and figure it out. EVERYTHING ELSE, SPOT FKN ON M8
Who can print a electrical drawing, (schematic) off the Razor 250 & 300.????
I could probably do a block diagram . The controller is the only component that has any real circuit board in a razor 300 and as such schematics available from razor or from most manufactures are not freelt available e controller is most likely a couple of power transistors biased as switches to control the power Cheers
You would think that the, Razor.com, could have one on line.
I want a throttle control rather than an on/off switch.
This is only a demonstration on how to use a transistor as a switch which is basically what the control box does inside .. If you place one end of a variable resistor of about 10K on the transistor base and the other on transistor earth you will have a throttle control. Leave out the middle connection . Most pots have 3 connections . The razor throttle control is just that a variable resistor.(potentiometer) But of course everyone knows that . I will try to make a vidoe on it soon . Cheers
You need to change the original controller, as the latter will not support a variable throttle. Take an off-the-shelf brushed controller with variable throttle (in general 3 wires: red, black, green) and buy a hall sensor throttle (plenty on many merchants sites)
Thanks man.i was able put my new batteries in my e300 someone gave me,thanks to ur vid. They thought it was broken,but I followed ur instructions and boom. Just needed new batteries.
Its good to see folks are keeping the e300s alive . keep on scooting yo
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I wish I watched this before I let the magic smoke out of my scooter 😩
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Is it possible to change out the stock batteries on my brand new razor e300 to two 12 Volt 15Ah lithium ? What I have to change anything else out? I’m just looking for a longer drive time
It was the capacitor blown by looks I’ve ordered one 35v 1000mf so my battery was 52v was that the limit ?
hi Kenneth I just put a 18650 kit on my e300 its 5s6p x2 its 2600mah Samsung an Panasonic new cells it wasn't charged full just 3.60v per cell as they came but I'm charging now after test run with my hoverboard charger 42v lithium .it ran out of steam after a mile up hill ans stuff.i have a 36v controller an variable throttle on it
steve mcgowan Awesome ,Steve. Keep them projects rolling. Happy new year
Drone,repair
I didn't have brilliant results with the lithium cells either. Lead acid just last longer, possibly because they drain slower due to higher internal resistance.You really need 8in series and as many in parallel as possible to increase mAh capacity
Hi Kenneth when u say chassis do u mean the controller chassis when testing for continuity ?
steve mcgowan Hi Steve. Any bare metal area will do for negative meter probe . Best using scooter chassis or negative wire.Yiu don’t need batteries connected to do continuity test.
Kenneth Jones thanks Kenneth for reply just had snow here in uk my cousin in oz.its an electric bike kit Ive bought off eBay now 36v 240 watt motor it span up ok when first connected its a front wheel hub kit then on test ride no power so asked for new controller but the same .the throttle lights up ok an when connected motor direct to battery 36v it tries to move .its 3 x 12v leads that ok it’s charged ok 36v so suspect motor sensors in wheel .im trying to use another throttle so will try find negative power an control 5v with meter on continuity .thanks
Kenneth Jones so on my mountain bike the frame or wheel will do for chassis ?
steve mcgowan Hi ,Controler should be connected power off for continuity test. Negative meter probe on any negative area. Bare metal on scooter is a good place or a negative wire. Same place for negative probe for voltage test to. Remember to put meter back to DC voltage setting and turn power on. If your trying to identify throttle control wires . Once you identify negative. The other wires will be have different voltages . The Lower voltage will be control voltage and higher voltage throttle Power itself.Use the throttle wires coming out of controller to do this. You now have to identify wires coming from the throttle itself and match them up with controller throttle wires.Black is usually negative. The positive wires can be any colour unfortunately.To identify the voltes you may have to connect original wiring and test throttle wire voltages . Control voltage wire is a very low voltage. Like 1.2 volts or even lower.
Kenneth Jones thanks the bike motor is trying to spin can hear buzzing when I twist throttle I’ve got my scooter controller an throttle connected but there’s 3 motor wires blu green an yellow so just swapping them
hi Kenneth my razor e300 controller has 3 red wires at the end is the first one batt + an next 2 power on/off switch .I cut them off to swap in a 36v controller but that not working so going back to standard.steve in uk
steve mcgowan Hi Steve. Make sure any different controllers have same outputs .Different controllers can have different throttle wiring. Usually throttle only needs 3 wires . Positive and negative and one for control voltage. Control voltage is usually a wire of lowest voltage ,and usually turn on a transistor or FET .You may have identify the wires from the actual throttle. Negative is easy.With Volt meter on continuity and One lead to chassis and other to a throttle wire till it rings .Other 2 will be power . You may have to juggle the two around to find the correct one if you don’t know .check voltage of throttle wires with battery connected with voltage meter.connectors can be spliced if they are different .and you have wiring diagram for new controller. A 36V controller will probably work with 24 volts but you will lose current. 24 volt motor will run on 36 volts but you may shorten motor life. Cheers
Quick question for you...do you happen to know the wiring (schematic) for the Hall effect sensor board in the thumb throttle on the E300? I picked up a non-working unit for cheap and would like to get it running for my daughter. One wire (the white in this version) has been pulled off the board and even under magnification I can't tell for the life of me where it would have been soldered. Thanks in advance!
question is if control is clicking .means its working. just buy batteries.
Ezip500 speed controller
Ozzie salvatico Flat battery’s may just get a click yes .
my controller just clicks when I give throlller.batteries won't hold charge..old batteries for sure..I did by pass the control saw back wheel turning very slow..but only charged for hour..should buy controller and batteries??
Ozzie salvatico. u allready fix it cause mine do the same just click and nothing
Ozzie salvatico Should only need new batteries. Suspect some kind of controller problem if new batteries drain quick . You may have some internal short
How did you go with your mod and is the scooter still going 2 years later cheers Ocean
Ocean Tomkins Sorry I’ve been out for so long . Interesting you mention it . Laptop batteries not very successful. I did have the scooter going but it was under powered and the laptop cells became dangerously hot . I suspect I didn’t have enough batteries. It was hard to find many laptop cells and pulling laptop batteries apart and soldering them all up is like playing with a bomb. Not recommended really. There are cells designed for this purpose. They are a little larger than laptop cells and they are LIPO. They have slightly different voltage and chemistry.Laptop batteries where lithium ion I think . Look up headway brand . They are the ones you want. I can’t remember the model number of headway’s . 1820 or something like that .They can be up to 10 amp hour. They are expensive and there size is a little big for 8 of them to fit in a e300 razor easily. Not impossible though. 8 in series 24V. Wired through BMS(Battery management system)of course. Cheers
How did you go with the repair?
i screwed up.The main board had a stuck in standby problem and I could not fix that either.Although I did highly suspect a certain programmable IC .Because its logic states did not compare with another board I had managed to fix.That was just a blown rectifier diode.I did find those ICs on Alibaba but they didn't say if they where programmed,or not.This was going beyond my resources though it would have been interesting to have the hardware .I figured in the end it was a little beyond my scope as well and not worth the trouble. Basically i forgot how to reassemble the panel and ended up cracking it.Should have taken pics or least some reference when I took it apart,that would have helped me reassemble Better luck next time maybe.
if you got BMS, you can use that to charge, can't you? Just find suitable power supply.
Yes by all means your bms usually can charge .24 volt charger for 24 volt bms.I charged individually,as i didnt want to cut up the connector on my razor charger,,and this bms is designed speciffiacally for lipo ,and im experimenting with li-ion.The 2 types have slightly different voltages so i wasnt sure what would happen. Over all though this xperiment was only partial sucsess,as the li-ions from laptops became very hot and run down quick.I am sure by connecting more in parralel would greatly improve things,but its difficult for me obtain many usd laptop cells cheap and its a hassle to wire up.The best thing to do is abonden laptopcells 2180 or what ever they are cant remem er and gonfor the 8 or 10 amp hour head way lipos.They have a much higher c rating and desinged for electric vechicle use.All this i did was highly experimental. Cheers and happy experimenting
+Kenneth Jones 18650. I suspected same thing - the current draw will be high. actually I was surprised I watched another video and one guy used Ryobi battery packs which only uses single cell in series, but he connected 2 packs in series to get 36 volts and it worked but he had to modify controller to accept higher voltage and current, it was easy mod.
What I like about his setup is that he didn't have to buy new controller. Lipo can definitely provide more amps, but it's also expensive. I got about 22 cell phone batteries that I can pair 3 in parallel that might work, they are 1300 mah x3 = 3900 mah per "cell".
I am not using the stock controller.Its 500 watt i think from memory and running a 350 watt motor.As long as your controller can handle the load ,that being the motor then it should be ok regardless of batterys.Just dont go over the rated voltage.batterys are the weak spot ,because of the current draw as you mentioned.Just to note as you probably know ,cells in series increase volts and in parralel increase current capacity.
Right, I meant the other dude was using stock controller and he did 2 simple mods to run on 36v.
Should be ok but I have never looked at the e100 and they could different set up to e300. Mbest if you find the earth wires first.you will need volt meter .cheap meters can be purchased for about 10 dollars. Using continuity setting run one meter wire to bare metal in scooter and other meter wire to each of the wires coming from controller end on scooter .when the meter rings there are your earths.its safe to join either Of these back together.from my experience there is usually two earth wires and they usually same colour.the other two remaining wires will be positive and have different voltages if it works out that these two wires are same colour,then you may have to guess from there I'm afraid .to do this turn scooter on and join wires.if you hear a clicking sound that's the wrong wire.i know that in e300 this won't destroy the scooters controller ,but in e100 I can't guarantee this. If you don't want to chance it you may have to look up the wiring schematic in e100 to get more info. To do this find the version number of the scooter and Google razor e100 version no wiring diagram or schematic .this should give a nice colour detour if the wiring.the info in which wire to connect may be possibly worked out from there Hope this helps and with a bit of luck you may have it by now anyway. Cheers from Kenny
My daughter managed to snap the throttle cable in half on her E100, it has 2 orange and 2 brown wires...are they specific to each wire or can i just reattach them to either orange to orange and brown to brown?