I'm Andy, a Michigan based Master Plumber and I love my trade. I began my plumbing career in 2013 and have never looked back. Like everyone, I have my good days and bad days but I always try to take away something positive from each day. My philosophy is to never stop learning and never take anything for granted. I try to upload videos at least once a week. If you have any suggestions feel free to let me know. Thanks for watching!
Want to send me some sweet stuff? Ship it here:
Andy Plumbs
108 N. Maple Rd #274
Saline, MI 48176
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Good stuff !
Thanks for the tour
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nice truck
Flipping awesome
Silicone doesn't need to dry before test?
@@thomasryan5681 Nope. I’ve always tested right away and never had any issues.
@@andy_plumbs Thanks. The underside gasket must be key.
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Nice video. Thank you for showing the rebuild it was interesting
Reverse the hoses on your rig. The bend on the other end of your high hose will allow you to avoid that half inch water line over the test cock.
Is there any level of worthwhile repair to be made purely from above in this situation? I recognize that the way you did it is the right way, but if I don't want to cut away the ceiling below, is it still worth trying to just replace that rubber gasket?
Yes, this repair can be made from above by using a Wingtite shower drain. If you Google it you will find videos son how to install them.
Something I’ve noticed is nobody talks about the buffer. If you recorded it, how did you? I’m curious about the relevance of it.
The buffer?
@@andy_plumbs Some departments have on their test sheets "buffer PSI" as it's main purpose is to see how much of pressure fluxuation there is, usually it has to be more than 3.0 psi from what I understand. Do you check the buffer on your tests? I have to in mystate/county.
@@Invictusxiv nope, never heard of it.
The differential across the second check valve differs from the differential pressure across the first check valve. Also, to backpressure the second check valve, the high control valve must be opened to introduce high pressure to the backside of the second check valve. Bad installation, no drain for catastrophic discharge. There are many problems with this video.
Are you saying the way I tested it was incorrect? I agree that the RP should be dumping to a drain but I didn’t plumb the building.
@@andy_plumbs To measure the differential pressure across the first check valve, connect the high-pressure hose to TC#2 and the low-pressure hose to TC#3, bleed out the air and take the reading. To backpressure the second check valve with the hoses still connected to TC#2 and TC#3, bleed the air out of the vent hose by opening the low control valve and connecting the vent hose to TC#4. Open the high control valve one complete turn and observe the relief valve. If there is no discharge, the second check valve is drip-tight with backpressure. To validate that backpressure was introduced behind the second check valve and not going downstream, close TC#2 and observe the gauge. If holding steady, the backpressure of the second check valve is confirmed, and the backflow preventer test was conducted when in a static state. To trigger the relief valve, open the low control valve one-quarter turn and observe the first drip. To test the DP across the second check valve, close TCs and remove hoses. Next, connect the high-pressure hose to TC#3 and the low-pressure hose to TC#4. Bleed and take the reading. It should be one psid or greater. I refer you to videos on KZread at jimmybakcflow.com. Also, the AWWA M14 manual has several test procedures, including the one I described. Testing is easy, but not done correctly causes concerns.
@@JimmyBackflow the procedure you’re describing is similar to how DC’s are tested, but I’ve never disconnected my hoses and jumped test cocks on a RP. I’ve always used the ASSE field test procedure book and it doesn’t mention anything of jumping test cocks either.
@@andy_plumbs To measure the DP across the RP second check valve, you must measure the pressure at TC#3 and TC#4. You will not see the steps described for measuring the DP across the second check valve because most test procedures and authorities do not require them. The problem occurs when testers fill out the form and put the DP of the first check valve in the second check valve box. This is a big problem in the industry because trainers do not explain how to measure the DP across the second check valve. If you want to measure the DP across the RP second check valve, do it correctly. If not, leave it blank. If you watch my videos, you will have a good understanding on how to test backflow preventers. The procedure is used through the NE States, NY, PA, and NJ and is outlined in the AWWA M14 Cross-connection Control Manual. Also, NEWWA provides a certification program for testing backflow preventers; a written copy of the test procedure is available.
From my understanding, Check #2 PSID is the actual Pressure Drop across Check #2. You would put High hose on TC #3 and Low Hose on TC #4 for that pressure differential measurement.
Boy do I feel for this guy! Does it get any worse than this mess
First if original shower installer had realized the drain was directly over a joist, why didn't they just cut the joist and make a header to save the integrity of the framing. Instead they ruined a good joist and made for a terrible trap installation. Second, you are a very patient man. I hope you get paid well.
Yep, I have no idea what original installer was thinking. All I can do is make the best of it. And thank you, I have learned over the years that having patience is one of the most important traits to have in this trade.
What does something like that cost about 12 k?
We were a little less but not far off.
I'd like to see a tour of your van. It looks like you have it set up well.
Yeah, I get that request pretty often. I’m going to try to do a truck tour video soon!
Nice work and the truck looks awesome 👍
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My shower drain cover needs to be removed so I can clean out the hair and gunk. There are no screws, I can't pry it up and it won't twist up. Any advice on how to get the thing off?
It is hard to say without seeing it. If it looks anything like the one in this video it should just pry up.
@@andy_plumbs Thank you so much! It does look like the one in your video. God bless you Sir! 👍
Don’t you own a bending machine..total amateur
Done this hundreds of times
Technically, shouldn’t that auto vent be up a bit higher? Preferably Just above the top of the sink?(maximum possible water level height)?
Let me know when the skill lvl starts. Handy man Saturday
Anytime the boss tells you it's supposed to only take an hr, this is the speed he's expecting you to work like.
I have a few questions, I wonder if you can help me to find answers: Thinking to lower the pressure tank and connect to the pump about 10' below the ground to eliminate the heating well house in the winter season. My pipe runs about 6' under the ground. 1) is it a good idea? 2) how to do it? 3) Should I install another pressure tank under the house in the crawl space? The well is about 30 yards away from the house. I found a 5" well in the field. PVC pipe broken, leveled with the ground. What to use to close it, to prevent from debris and rottens to fall down? How to find if it has water and how deep? Also what camera to buy to inspect the well? What 4" Submersible pumps and water pressure tank brands and models are best?
I would not recommend lowering the well tank. I understand the concern for heating the well house but it is going to be a logistical nightmare for you and future contractors that have to work on it. I would look into either having the well house professionally insulated or relocating the tank to inside the house or in the crawlspace. If the crawlspace is short I would look into a horizontal tank. As far as the abandoned well in the field, I would have a well drilling contractor check it out. There are legalities and liabilities involved with abandoning wells and they need to be backfilled and closed off properly.
@@andy_plumbs Thank you! I already dug 6' under the foundation, where the water pipe enters the house. So putting vertical pressure tank should not be a problem. A) the water coming from the well goes up and then down. Even if I put pressure tank under the house, I still need to heat well house in the winter. OR NOT? B) What filtration system should I put? And how about water goes to the hydrants. We have 5 of them. C) We have 20 gallon pressure tank. Is bigger the better? What brand would you recommend?
@@genevelis6075 if you have a submersible well pump in a casing then you can eliminate the well house by relocating the pressure tank. If you have a shallow well pump it’s a different story. I would have the water tested and treated accordingly. Most well systems require a softener at the very least, sometimes more filtration for iron or manganese. The hose spigots should not be filtered. Having a bigger tank isn’t necessarily always a good thing. It depends on your usage. Too small of a tank and your well pump will run more frequently. Too big of a tank and your drawn down cycle will last forever and it’ll seem like your pressure is weak at the lower end of the cycle. For more well related information I would check out H2o Mechanic’s channel. He has a lot of great videos on wells and everything that goes with them!
@@andy_plumbs Thank you so much! My well is about 150' deep if I remember correctly. The pump push water to the top and then back poly pipe goes down to the ground, branches out to hydrants and house. I already texted to H2O channel 3 times, this guy did not respond.
@@genevelis6075 that’s a bummer. Unfortunately my well knowledge is pretty limited. I would talk with your local well contractor and get their opinion. They should be able to provide an estimate also. I hope this helps.
Can you replace a cast iron house trap with a pvc house trap in michigan?
Neat pump. I haven’t seen one that mounts like that. Nice job
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Are u from Michigan?! I went to U of M! :)
Just subscribed! Love ur videos! :)
What brand some lid is that on the sump pump? Thanks
Everbuilt. You can get them at Home Depot.
Looks great nice work, are the softer systems on Amazon any good
It depends on what you’re looking at. I wouldn’t suggest anything that’s “salt free” if you’re looking to soften the water. Also I’d only recommend units with Clack control valves.
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Also a glue strainer is the better option
Should've talked owner into lowering trap so it wouldn't be a S Trap
Why not install an ice maker box behind the refrigerator directly to the cold line
Normally nowadays that’s how it’s done on a new build or remodel however on this job they didn’t install one originally. The customer didn’t want open the wall so this is what they got.
Nice work, just wish you didnt use the joe homeowner style trap
Thanks! I get where you’re coming from with the trap but that’s all anyone uses around here. If it’s concealed I’ll use a glue trap all day.
@@andy_plumbs nice work, really enjoy the quality and variety of techniques used. keep up the good work
My Grandpa had a saying about how to wire the pressure switch, but it's definitely not meant for KZread
Looks great ....note for if dhec is inspecting...the drain valve can not have connectable threads (for hose) ...some bacteria issue or something 🤷...I failed once for it 🙄
Nice catch! Almost all hose thread connections in my state require a vacuum breaker with the exception of water heater drains and boiler drains used solely for draining of tanks which is what this is for.
It's a fine job in 98.1% better than all other videos on KZread I say this because some people have no clue that it's not a good idea to pile pipe dope anywhere near a water system or on anything on a water system kudos to you my friend!
Thank you
What should the normal water pressure be in a residential home? What is the highest and lowest pressure to operate properly?
Typically on a private well system the pressure will fluctuate between 40-60psi. Water supplied by a municipality is a little bit different but in my area the average is about 60psi. 80psi is the maximum allowable by code in most areas. Realistically anything above 65-70 and you start having issues like dripping faucets, squealing toilet fill valves and water hammering. It’s also heavily dependent on whether or not the piping is sized correctly. A lot of times the problem is volume, not pressure.
Thanks, ... LOOKS like we had the same installation PLUMBER ... instead of modifying the FRAMING appropriately with a "SISTER" - HE attempted to BEND the PVC around the obstruction ... IDIOTS are BORN everyday - some over L O N G Weekends & get several "daze" worth of STUPID ! ... then the (ME) Landlord inherits the LEAKY Problem Thanks Again COOP the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...
Clean install. I like the see-through check valve. Pretty cool.
who is playing with the gas leak detector?
I had a coworker with me replacing a gas line to a dryer. Nice catch!
@@andy_plumbs lol wow lots of leaks over there...keep up the nice work- craftsmanship
@@bkoz319 he left a union loose on accident 🤣
You’ll always have work because of your ethics, beautiful job.
nice work, thanks for taking the time to debur and make sure everything is straight, subd
I probably would’ve spread set out more to sneak in tees and valve for bypass but is what it is. This looks like easier access for homeowner