Very nice. I’m scratch building a wag aero wagabond and the aluminum aileron has been a lot of learning but also a lot of fun. I’ve been forming all the ribs and bulkheads with a 20 Tom press. Working with the aluminum has me thinking about forming the wing ribs from aluminum instead of spruce. Thanks for the video, cheers.
@BlackLabAdventures4 сағат бұрын
That sounds like a fun project! I wish you the best of luck, and good tailwinds!
@ryna90535 күн бұрын
ជំរាបសួរលោកតើជាដែកឬជាប្រភេទដែកអ្វី
@edwardwright696111 күн бұрын
what are the flutes in the side flanges for ? when dressing the sides down as you make your second and third pass along if you always hit the high spots first you will get a smoother more uniform finnish this will be more important the longer the return is as it helps stop creases forming
@BlackLabAdventures11 күн бұрын
Your question lets me know that you have never built an aluminum airplane wing rib. If you do some online research, you will discover that EVERY aluminum airplane wing has "flutes" along their edges. It is part of their engineered design.
@edwardwright696110 күн бұрын
@@BlackLabAdventures i have never made any thing for planes that why i ask what they are for but instead of telling me you try to belittle me i have worked with metal for nearly 40 years and was just offering some advice on forming shapes but as you know more than me i will keep my learnig to my self and leave you alone
@BlackLabAdventures10 күн бұрын
@@edwardwright6961 Hmmmm..... I have gone back and reread my response to your original question. I see nothing within my text that "belittles" you; nor infers that. I just provided information for you to seek out for learning purposes, if you wanted to pursue it. That said, in my 38 years as a yacht carpenter, I learned valuable lessons. One in particular is, I never offer up a solution for how to do something, if I have never done the job myself.
@CharlesSt.Germain27 күн бұрын
Not a backhoe comment, but a Caribou Kayak one from owner of hull #23. Charlie
@BlackLabAdventures27 күн бұрын
I am SO GLAD that we have reconnected! VERY nice to hear from you! I hope all is well with you, and family!
I just bought one of these! Pretty decent shape, plan on fixing her up. Need to get a headlight for it
@hubertkaiser8581Ай бұрын
Vorsicht, eine Fingerkuppe ist schon weg, sorry...
@stejac51Ай бұрын
Very nice work !! ... WELL DONE ...
@jamiecaudill5915Ай бұрын
Great job
@mollyv.96292 ай бұрын
Barry, thank you for these videos, I love sharing them with my kids now ❤ hope you are well
@BlackLabAdventures2 ай бұрын
Molly! The last that I knew, it was "kid". Now, it is "kids"! Congratulations! Yes, I am doing fine. My wife and I live just outside of Ellsworth, ME. I have retired from the boatbuilding industry, which allows me to pursue many of the things that I couldn't while working full-time. Thank you for your message. It was very nice to hear from you!
@lencrainer85702 ай бұрын
Just a word to the wise. Get some Johnsons Paste Wax, and do a very liberal coat on all that cast iron. It will prevent surface rust and improve the glide factor of the wood across the table top. Ditch that blade and get a Diablo thin kerf blade a good combination rip and croscut you will be amased at how straight it cuts no wobble . Good video enjoyed it Len
@BlackLabAdventures2 ай бұрын
Thank you, Len. I am very aware of "waxing" tablesaw surfaces (Planers, Jointers, Shapers, etc.). Last year, I retired after 38 years of being a yacht carpenter. I have been around this equipment for more than half of my life. Thin kerf blades have their place. So do "regular" blades. A thin kerf blade is something that I wouldn't want to be using while ripping "two by" material from my local lumber yard (They store their dimensional lumber outside....). This saw will never be used for doing cabinet style work. That kind of accuracy will be saved for the Delta Unisaw, which I decided to keep. The Craftsman saw will only be used for "rough" work.
@juicybrucie3652 ай бұрын
Absolutely brilliant idea, I will definitely be doing this next month thanks much.
@BlackLabAdventures2 ай бұрын
It has worked very well for us. I can dismantle it in five minutes. Likewise amount of time for putting it back together. Good luck!
@rolanddonovanjr98462 ай бұрын
Hammer time is always cool!
@rodrigoramos44742 ай бұрын
Que chapa é essa e qual é a espessura?
@IGroatman3 ай бұрын
Incredible! Just what i needed to see!
@kendallhorst76593 ай бұрын
Well done!
@keithschneider63483 ай бұрын
Great content
@khanscombe6194 ай бұрын
Interesting! But won't you need the RB interface to use the Geaflok? Then if it works, what about focal plane variables? I wanna do the reverse, use an RB67 Pro 120 6x7 back on my Graflex Graflok back but noticed the flange distance is slightly different from my Geafmatic Back ?
@WBBPhotography_Maine4 ай бұрын
I changed nothing on the back of the camera. I only modified the wooden, sheet film, holders. As for "registration", with any film back modifications that I have done on my cameras, I have never had a problem. All of that stuff is worked out for you already. Think about it: If I were shooting my large format camera, and using standard 4x5 film holders, and wanted to use my medium format roll film adaptor for the same camera, I don't need to do anything. It just works because manufacturers of roll backs and film holders have done all of that measuring for me. Case in point: Watch how I did a similar thing to the back of my Harman Titan 4x5 pinhole camera: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lJ6dzNitiJCehbQ.html
@khanscombe6192 ай бұрын
Oh ya. I thought heard you say in video you removed the rotating back but then I awe it as you need it fit the graflok mount. I don't have any holders to spare but I hsvr the Grafmatic 24 holder that fits & Mamiya had their double cut holder of I need just 2 for a test. Cool deal. (:
@pareloader59894 ай бұрын
No stress risers there.
@jamessefton36804 ай бұрын
I bought one of these new in 1977 when I was a senior in high school and I still have it-I’m 64 years old now and it has got a lot of use over the years and still works great 👍
@MrWadcock4 ай бұрын
Im looking for the picture on the inside of one of the panels
@BlackLabAdventures4 ай бұрын
Can you be more specific? Are you thinking that there is a wiring diagram of some sort that could help? I took the time to look at what photos I have on hand, along with video. I don't remember seeing a wiring diagram, and it doesn't appear in the images/video that I have. I can tell you what I did to get specific information about my welder. I went to Lincoln's website, and under the "Resources" tab, I navigated to the "Support Center". Once on that page, I "clicked" on the "Search Operator's Manuals" in the "Certificates, Documents & Downloads" icon. When that page opened up, I entered the Code Number off of the ID Plate on the front of my welder. (My welder's Code Number is: 9041). Finally, you end up on a page where you can download a PDF file of the Owner's Manual for your welder. After I did that, I contacted Lincoln with the Serial Number, Code Number, and Model Number of my welder. They got right back to me confirming how my welder was wired. What I describe above is the path I would recommend taking.
@ericlindstrom85694 ай бұрын
I have a couple questions about your base - 1. Did you drill holes and mount it using the existing holes (sort of like feet) inside the welder itself? 2. How stable is the welder when you roll it around?
@BlackLabAdventures4 ай бұрын
1) Yes, I did use the existing holes through the metal case of the welder. 2) It rolls very smoothly and is very stable on the "dolly" that I fabricated for it.
@superflyguy19735 ай бұрын
I’ve just wondering if you’ve got any photos you can send me of the insides of your lightning hole wooden press die you made regards Jason
@BlackLabAdventures5 ай бұрын
I sold the project back in 2015. (Medical reasons.). I have no idea which hard drive my Sonex photos are on, (I am a photographer with bunches of hard drives...). That said, the male portion had a base made out of 1/4" aluminum. It's diameter was the size of what the lightening hole was specified to be. And, there was the proper angle / flare ground around it's circumference. Scrap wood was screwed to the "top" of the aluminum. The female part of the die was made out of scrap material as well. It was a "cup" that slid over the top of the male portion of the die. That is about all that I remember! If I do find photos, I will forward them to you.
@BlackLabAdventures5 ай бұрын
I found some photos on my old Photobucket account. How do I send them to you?
@superflyguy19735 ай бұрын
@@BlackLabAdventures i’m trying to work out on the bottom former which sits on the steel beam, is that a routed edge of wood with an aluminum ring around it for support or if it’s a piece of steel which has been turned on a lathe
@BlackLabAdventures5 ай бұрын
@@superflyguy1973 let me know if this link works for you. photobucket.com/u/BlackLabAdventures/a/77eacce1-15d7-4afb-b90c-6c44703bdc40
@BlackLabAdventures5 ай бұрын
@@superflyguy1973 No lathe was involved. I did not own one at the time.
@tazinator04185 ай бұрын
I wish there was a program that I could scan the templates and cnc them out But until then I’ll use your method
@BlackLabAdventures5 ай бұрын
I don't see why you couldn't still CnC them out? Make a full-sized template of each rib, (Out of inexpensive 1/8" plywood.), then scan it into your system. Where I used to work (I am now retired.), we had two large CnC machines (I did not operate them.). There was also a scanning station as well. An operator could take a plywood pattern, trace around it with a digitizing "pen", and the object was scanned into the CnC's computer system. Whether you make a pattern for a router, like I did, or make a pattern for scanning into a CnC, a pattern needs to be made.
@tazinator04185 ай бұрын
Do you remember what type of bit that you used?
@BlackLabAdventures5 ай бұрын
Any carbide tipped bit will cut aluminum. I have even cut 1/4" thick aluminum on a tablesaw; using a carbide tipped saw blade. I used a carbide tipped, double fluted, straight bit. What I can't remember is, if it was a 1/4" shank, or 1/2" shank. My guess is (Without watching the video.), it was a 1/2" diameter shank.
@tazinator04185 ай бұрын
@@BlackLabAdventures I’m building a Thatcher CX7 and just trying to figure how everyone is making their ribs
@BlackLabAdventures5 ай бұрын
@@tazinator0418 I know what I shared in my video was an eye opener to many. At the time that I did this, the only videos out there were of people hand-cutting their ribs out with shears, then filing them back to a drawn line. "I don't have time to mess around with that!", I said to myself! Use a router like I did.
@iowafox22066 ай бұрын
I've got a 1969 Case 222 I repowered last winter and saved from a scrap pile. I stuck a Predator 420 13hp hemi engine in. When I got it the original 12hp kohler was long gone and had a old worn out briggs. I had to do ALOT of fabrication and tinkering to get it to all work. It's not original at all it was cut alot and beaten. I've slowly gotten it to look alot nicer and somewhat good looking. I repainted it Allis orange and Massey Grey. It is my snow pusher/ puller the real mule of my fleet. I love the hydraulic drive. They are great machines and super easy to maneuver and operate. . I just last week picked up a 1978 John Deere 316K that was a dead on arrival. Got it running its a almost all original machine and will be my mowing machine for years and years to come. Needs a little work but definitely worth it to me. I found online a repower solution from this John Deere when the time comes if I ever need to replace the 16hp Kohler in it I can stick a 18hp Briggs vtwin that is plug and play from a reputable company for $1800 which is steep but a good solution considering I'll be keeping this machine for as long as I can as it's built to last and a dream machine of mine.
@BlackLabAdventures6 ай бұрын
I still have all of the "bits and pieces" to the original B43 (16hp) engine that came out of the tractor. My plan is to rebuild it and store it away for a "rainy day". If something ever happens (Highly unlikely!) to the new B48 engine, I will have one ready to go. It will be a very easy and quick swap! Congratulations on your machine! It sounds great!
@alphatruckhouse82236 ай бұрын
Holy Guac dude ! Job well done , congrats . I hope we can see a vid of that beast throwing snow✌
@BlackLabAdventures6 ай бұрын
Yes, there will be a snow removal clip! Thank you!
@user-jg2vm8bi8j6 ай бұрын
Я первый!
@alfonsoluna89486 ай бұрын
Hola, necesito la bomba hidráulica de la terramite t5c...cómo la puedo traer a chile
@ivaa7777JAWA7 ай бұрын
Great video
@BlackLabAdventures7 ай бұрын
Thank you!
@turbo577711 ай бұрын
If you had undercut your form block slightly you would have 90 degree flanges and no spring back.
@GoingToGenocideSLK Жыл бұрын
What aluminium alloy is the rib made from? 🙂
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
.025 - 6061 T-6 Aluminum
@garyplewa9277 Жыл бұрын
Interesting composite material you have there below the aluminum, with the reliefs for the flutes. Would you mind saying what that material is?
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
Corian. It's a material that folks manufacturer countertops and tabletops out of.
@garyplewa9277 Жыл бұрын
@@BlackLabAdventures Thank you
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
@@garyplewa9277, You are welcome!
@minhagulislamminhagulislam2616 Жыл бұрын
Thanks brother amazing video. You sould share your Whole project video..
@dinotorrico.832 Жыл бұрын
Y aportes mucho conocimiento
@dinotorrico.832 Жыл бұрын
Espero que crezcas en tu canal
@dinotorrico.832 Жыл бұрын
Soy latino
@dinotorrico.832 Жыл бұрын
Hello
@MINItraktor196 Жыл бұрын
nice tractor you have 👍
@chipdayton1625 Жыл бұрын
If adding a door would crack the foundation then the entire foundation would be at risk.
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
No, just the alcove area where the bulkhead stairs are located. By adding a door, within the frigid climate that I live in, the bulkhead area has been known to "snap off" of the rest of the foundation. The main foundation is fine and at no risk.
@sanjeevmraman Жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks! Do you have any videos on how you set up/ use your bathroom darkroom? I’m an experienced amateur photographer but have never done wet darkroom work before and don’t want to spend a whole bunch on gear and equipment, so I’m trying to figure out a setup in a spare/ guest bathroom
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
If you are just developing your film, you do not need a darkroom. What you need is what is called a "dark bag", or "film changing bag". Inside of this sort of "pillow case", light-proof bag, you transfer your film roll to a film reel, that is placed inside a light-proof developing tank. The lights are never turned off. Once my film is developed, I scan it into my computer for post-processing. If you want to print your negatives in a traditional way, you WILL need a darkroom setup. There are countless videos here on KZread that clearly explain fill developing, scanning, and printing techniques. Good luck!
@sanjeevmraman Жыл бұрын
@@BlackLabAdventures thanks. Yes, at the present time, I’m just planning to develop my film, not print it.
@Callmedstone Жыл бұрын
Crazy question. I’ve been trying to figure out a sane way of making my own sheet film from 120 rolls for this exact purpose. I thought about building my own sheet cutting templates. And then sleeping them .There’s very little information on this type of stuff on the internet. How did people do this ( other than purchasing pre-cut sheets)? I saw a Hasselblad sheet cutter, but I’m hoping there’s another way. Have a good one!
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
I don't have a way to do what you are trying to do. For my situation, I just bought precut sheets of film.
@jaspertaylor7455 Жыл бұрын
I don't have the room to physically maintain the motorcycle, as you. THANK YOU KINDLY ,for EVERYTHING...I STILL, WATCHED MANY TIMES...
@jaspertaylor7455 Жыл бұрын
I purchased the same model, 1993 KAWASAKI KLR650, ALL the specs were changed, different tank, no faring, nothing. All I have is the original seat, NO KAWASAKI, NOTHING. I'M putting it together as we speak and I ADMIRE YOURS. THANK YOU KINDLY FOR YOUR SUPPORT and EVERYTHING... That motherfcuer is HEAV, but I can't wait to RIDE....!!!.
@jefffrayer8238 Жыл бұрын
You did a nice job cleaning it up but wish you spent a bit more than a minute showing it. I have 2 Lincolns, 1 my Dad bought and 1 my FIL bought both probably very early 70's. Also Dad bought the AC/DC Lincoln probably in the 80's that I now have. I played several times and are you saying that one is from 1986? Looks like the 50's to me. It would be nice if you slowed the camerawork down and spent more time explaining what that welder is even before putting the sheet metal on. I have been told that older welders lay a better bead cause they were copper wound and newer ones use aluminum to save money. Do you know anything about that?
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
Hello Jeff, Thank you for your note, and thank you for sharing your own experience with these welders. I am not a welder! I just want to be one! I did heavy research this past spring, and that work led me to the Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DC stick welder. It is the first welder I have bought (Okay, I own an Oxy/Acy setup and a small DC Inverter welder.), and it will be the last. And, if my kids want it after I am gone, it will outlast them as well. Lincoln Electric has a fairly extensive resource section on their website. If you enter the serial number of one of their machines, you will end up with a chart that will let you find when a machine was built. Their customer service center is excellent too! I sent them an email asking about the specifics of the internal wiring of my machine, and within 24 hours, I had the answers that I needed. I have been shooting video for over 20 years. In the early 2000s, I even had a part-time business of shooting and editing video. I know what it takes to shoot a quality video and to edit it down into a nice story. It takes time. LOTS of time! It's time that I want to spend working on setting up my retirement workshop, and not time I want to spend behind a camera and in front of a computer. I don't know anything about what I am doing; I am just doing it because I want to teach myself some new skills. I am a 38 year yacht carpenter veteran. Now, I want to learn something about working with metal, instead of wood. The reason that I put this short video up on my KZread channel is, I can copy the link into my Facebook page easily. The video doesn't get "buried" here as it does on Facebook. What I post here is more of a "video diary" for me, my family, and a few friends. If someone, like you, stumbles across one of my videos, and gets a tidbit out of it, then that is great! I bought the welder back in May. I am just getting around to cleaning it up, and putting back into service now. If you would like to see a little of the earlier work, here is a link to that video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dGaIrqx8nduuZ8o.html Take care! Barry PS: My welder is a "copper core" welder. That's why it is so darn heavy! And, here is one more video about the welder: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dmtq0ZV7fKjPmc4.html
@stevewarner8880 Жыл бұрын
Just a FYI. The idealarc 250 looked like that with the round top from around 1956 to 1989 then to the flat top versions that are still in production
@revrickw Жыл бұрын
Any update on the trolley and I beam yet?
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
I decided not to use it for this application. After doing more accurate measuring, that revealed that I needed maximum height. This is why I went in this direction. I do have plans to use the trolley and I-beam outside. But, that won't happen until sometime next year.
@bombarde Жыл бұрын
Do you still have Oxy?
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
Yes.
@markmiller6817 Жыл бұрын
Vintage madness , I love it .
@markmiller6817 Жыл бұрын
Nice , that looks like a LeBlond lathe I had in the 80's . I thought mine was about 1900 . Can we see the mill ?
@BlackLabAdventures Жыл бұрын
Follow this link: m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0AZxQCATR5EzD4CQMAmR2C2VzNtGfmrg57p4Vfk9SFe442nyEBb6LJ5rb6jwoY6cPl&id=100001444621152&mibextid=qC1gEa
@TheCCLovett Жыл бұрын
Look at all the puppies that have followed you home
@hilltopmachineworks2131 Жыл бұрын
Nice old lathe. Glad you could save it. Having all the original stuff to go with it makes it awesome.
Пікірлер
Very nice. I’m scratch building a wag aero wagabond and the aluminum aileron has been a lot of learning but also a lot of fun. I’ve been forming all the ribs and bulkheads with a 20 Tom press. Working with the aluminum has me thinking about forming the wing ribs from aluminum instead of spruce. Thanks for the video, cheers.
That sounds like a fun project! I wish you the best of luck, and good tailwinds!
ជំរាបសួរលោកតើជាដែកឬជាប្រភេទដែកអ្វី
what are the flutes in the side flanges for ? when dressing the sides down as you make your second and third pass along if you always hit the high spots first you will get a smoother more uniform finnish this will be more important the longer the return is as it helps stop creases forming
Your question lets me know that you have never built an aluminum airplane wing rib. If you do some online research, you will discover that EVERY aluminum airplane wing has "flutes" along their edges. It is part of their engineered design.
@@BlackLabAdventures i have never made any thing for planes that why i ask what they are for but instead of telling me you try to belittle me i have worked with metal for nearly 40 years and was just offering some advice on forming shapes but as you know more than me i will keep my learnig to my self and leave you alone
@@edwardwright6961 Hmmmm..... I have gone back and reread my response to your original question. I see nothing within my text that "belittles" you; nor infers that. I just provided information for you to seek out for learning purposes, if you wanted to pursue it. That said, in my 38 years as a yacht carpenter, I learned valuable lessons. One in particular is, I never offer up a solution for how to do something, if I have never done the job myself.
Not a backhoe comment, but a Caribou Kayak one from owner of hull #23. Charlie
I am SO GLAD that we have reconnected! VERY nice to hear from you! I hope all is well with you, and family!
kzread.info/dash/bejne/lKKu2aZ6p5eydtI.htmlsi=kXNicgkrAW4owJvm
@@BlackLabAdventures
I just bought one of these! Pretty decent shape, plan on fixing her up. Need to get a headlight for it
Vorsicht, eine Fingerkuppe ist schon weg, sorry...
Very nice work !! ... WELL DONE ...
Great job
Barry, thank you for these videos, I love sharing them with my kids now ❤ hope you are well
Molly! The last that I knew, it was "kid". Now, it is "kids"! Congratulations! Yes, I am doing fine. My wife and I live just outside of Ellsworth, ME. I have retired from the boatbuilding industry, which allows me to pursue many of the things that I couldn't while working full-time. Thank you for your message. It was very nice to hear from you!
Just a word to the wise. Get some Johnsons Paste Wax, and do a very liberal coat on all that cast iron. It will prevent surface rust and improve the glide factor of the wood across the table top. Ditch that blade and get a Diablo thin kerf blade a good combination rip and croscut you will be amased at how straight it cuts no wobble . Good video enjoyed it Len
Thank you, Len. I am very aware of "waxing" tablesaw surfaces (Planers, Jointers, Shapers, etc.). Last year, I retired after 38 years of being a yacht carpenter. I have been around this equipment for more than half of my life. Thin kerf blades have their place. So do "regular" blades. A thin kerf blade is something that I wouldn't want to be using while ripping "two by" material from my local lumber yard (They store their dimensional lumber outside....). This saw will never be used for doing cabinet style work. That kind of accuracy will be saved for the Delta Unisaw, which I decided to keep. The Craftsman saw will only be used for "rough" work.
Absolutely brilliant idea, I will definitely be doing this next month thanks much.
It has worked very well for us. I can dismantle it in five minutes. Likewise amount of time for putting it back together. Good luck!
Hammer time is always cool!
Que chapa é essa e qual é a espessura?
Incredible! Just what i needed to see!
Well done!
Great content
Interesting! But won't you need the RB interface to use the Geaflok? Then if it works, what about focal plane variables? I wanna do the reverse, use an RB67 Pro 120 6x7 back on my Graflex Graflok back but noticed the flange distance is slightly different from my Geafmatic Back ?
I changed nothing on the back of the camera. I only modified the wooden, sheet film, holders. As for "registration", with any film back modifications that I have done on my cameras, I have never had a problem. All of that stuff is worked out for you already. Think about it: If I were shooting my large format camera, and using standard 4x5 film holders, and wanted to use my medium format roll film adaptor for the same camera, I don't need to do anything. It just works because manufacturers of roll backs and film holders have done all of that measuring for me. Case in point: Watch how I did a similar thing to the back of my Harman Titan 4x5 pinhole camera: kzread.info/dash/bejne/lJ6dzNitiJCehbQ.html
Oh ya. I thought heard you say in video you removed the rotating back but then I awe it as you need it fit the graflok mount. I don't have any holders to spare but I hsvr the Grafmatic 24 holder that fits & Mamiya had their double cut holder of I need just 2 for a test. Cool deal. (:
No stress risers there.
I bought one of these new in 1977 when I was a senior in high school and I still have it-I’m 64 years old now and it has got a lot of use over the years and still works great 👍
Im looking for the picture on the inside of one of the panels
Can you be more specific? Are you thinking that there is a wiring diagram of some sort that could help? I took the time to look at what photos I have on hand, along with video. I don't remember seeing a wiring diagram, and it doesn't appear in the images/video that I have. I can tell you what I did to get specific information about my welder. I went to Lincoln's website, and under the "Resources" tab, I navigated to the "Support Center". Once on that page, I "clicked" on the "Search Operator's Manuals" in the "Certificates, Documents & Downloads" icon. When that page opened up, I entered the Code Number off of the ID Plate on the front of my welder. (My welder's Code Number is: 9041). Finally, you end up on a page where you can download a PDF file of the Owner's Manual for your welder. After I did that, I contacted Lincoln with the Serial Number, Code Number, and Model Number of my welder. They got right back to me confirming how my welder was wired. What I describe above is the path I would recommend taking.
I have a couple questions about your base - 1. Did you drill holes and mount it using the existing holes (sort of like feet) inside the welder itself? 2. How stable is the welder when you roll it around?
1) Yes, I did use the existing holes through the metal case of the welder. 2) It rolls very smoothly and is very stable on the "dolly" that I fabricated for it.
I’ve just wondering if you’ve got any photos you can send me of the insides of your lightning hole wooden press die you made regards Jason
I sold the project back in 2015. (Medical reasons.). I have no idea which hard drive my Sonex photos are on, (I am a photographer with bunches of hard drives...). That said, the male portion had a base made out of 1/4" aluminum. It's diameter was the size of what the lightening hole was specified to be. And, there was the proper angle / flare ground around it's circumference. Scrap wood was screwed to the "top" of the aluminum. The female part of the die was made out of scrap material as well. It was a "cup" that slid over the top of the male portion of the die. That is about all that I remember! If I do find photos, I will forward them to you.
I found some photos on my old Photobucket account. How do I send them to you?
@@BlackLabAdventures i’m trying to work out on the bottom former which sits on the steel beam, is that a routed edge of wood with an aluminum ring around it for support or if it’s a piece of steel which has been turned on a lathe
@@superflyguy1973 let me know if this link works for you. photobucket.com/u/BlackLabAdventures/a/77eacce1-15d7-4afb-b90c-6c44703bdc40
@@superflyguy1973 No lathe was involved. I did not own one at the time.
I wish there was a program that I could scan the templates and cnc them out But until then I’ll use your method
I don't see why you couldn't still CnC them out? Make a full-sized template of each rib, (Out of inexpensive 1/8" plywood.), then scan it into your system. Where I used to work (I am now retired.), we had two large CnC machines (I did not operate them.). There was also a scanning station as well. An operator could take a plywood pattern, trace around it with a digitizing "pen", and the object was scanned into the CnC's computer system. Whether you make a pattern for a router, like I did, or make a pattern for scanning into a CnC, a pattern needs to be made.
Do you remember what type of bit that you used?
Any carbide tipped bit will cut aluminum. I have even cut 1/4" thick aluminum on a tablesaw; using a carbide tipped saw blade. I used a carbide tipped, double fluted, straight bit. What I can't remember is, if it was a 1/4" shank, or 1/2" shank. My guess is (Without watching the video.), it was a 1/2" diameter shank.
@@BlackLabAdventures I’m building a Thatcher CX7 and just trying to figure how everyone is making their ribs
@@tazinator0418 I know what I shared in my video was an eye opener to many. At the time that I did this, the only videos out there were of people hand-cutting their ribs out with shears, then filing them back to a drawn line. "I don't have time to mess around with that!", I said to myself! Use a router like I did.
I've got a 1969 Case 222 I repowered last winter and saved from a scrap pile. I stuck a Predator 420 13hp hemi engine in. When I got it the original 12hp kohler was long gone and had a old worn out briggs. I had to do ALOT of fabrication and tinkering to get it to all work. It's not original at all it was cut alot and beaten. I've slowly gotten it to look alot nicer and somewhat good looking. I repainted it Allis orange and Massey Grey. It is my snow pusher/ puller the real mule of my fleet. I love the hydraulic drive. They are great machines and super easy to maneuver and operate. . I just last week picked up a 1978 John Deere 316K that was a dead on arrival. Got it running its a almost all original machine and will be my mowing machine for years and years to come. Needs a little work but definitely worth it to me. I found online a repower solution from this John Deere when the time comes if I ever need to replace the 16hp Kohler in it I can stick a 18hp Briggs vtwin that is plug and play from a reputable company for $1800 which is steep but a good solution considering I'll be keeping this machine for as long as I can as it's built to last and a dream machine of mine.
I still have all of the "bits and pieces" to the original B43 (16hp) engine that came out of the tractor. My plan is to rebuild it and store it away for a "rainy day". If something ever happens (Highly unlikely!) to the new B48 engine, I will have one ready to go. It will be a very easy and quick swap! Congratulations on your machine! It sounds great!
Holy Guac dude ! Job well done , congrats . I hope we can see a vid of that beast throwing snow✌
Yes, there will be a snow removal clip! Thank you!
Я первый!
Hola, necesito la bomba hidráulica de la terramite t5c...cómo la puedo traer a chile
Great video
Thank you!
If you had undercut your form block slightly you would have 90 degree flanges and no spring back.
What aluminium alloy is the rib made from? 🙂
.025 - 6061 T-6 Aluminum
Interesting composite material you have there below the aluminum, with the reliefs for the flutes. Would you mind saying what that material is?
Corian. It's a material that folks manufacturer countertops and tabletops out of.
@@BlackLabAdventures Thank you
@@garyplewa9277, You are welcome!
Thanks brother amazing video. You sould share your Whole project video..
Y aportes mucho conocimiento
Espero que crezcas en tu canal
Soy latino
Hello
nice tractor you have 👍
If adding a door would crack the foundation then the entire foundation would be at risk.
No, just the alcove area where the bulkhead stairs are located. By adding a door, within the frigid climate that I live in, the bulkhead area has been known to "snap off" of the rest of the foundation. The main foundation is fine and at no risk.
Great video. Thanks! Do you have any videos on how you set up/ use your bathroom darkroom? I’m an experienced amateur photographer but have never done wet darkroom work before and don’t want to spend a whole bunch on gear and equipment, so I’m trying to figure out a setup in a spare/ guest bathroom
If you are just developing your film, you do not need a darkroom. What you need is what is called a "dark bag", or "film changing bag". Inside of this sort of "pillow case", light-proof bag, you transfer your film roll to a film reel, that is placed inside a light-proof developing tank. The lights are never turned off. Once my film is developed, I scan it into my computer for post-processing. If you want to print your negatives in a traditional way, you WILL need a darkroom setup. There are countless videos here on KZread that clearly explain fill developing, scanning, and printing techniques. Good luck!
@@BlackLabAdventures thanks. Yes, at the present time, I’m just planning to develop my film, not print it.
Crazy question. I’ve been trying to figure out a sane way of making my own sheet film from 120 rolls for this exact purpose. I thought about building my own sheet cutting templates. And then sleeping them .There’s very little information on this type of stuff on the internet. How did people do this ( other than purchasing pre-cut sheets)? I saw a Hasselblad sheet cutter, but I’m hoping there’s another way. Have a good one!
I don't have a way to do what you are trying to do. For my situation, I just bought precut sheets of film.
I don't have the room to physically maintain the motorcycle, as you. THANK YOU KINDLY ,for EVERYTHING...I STILL, WATCHED MANY TIMES...
I purchased the same model, 1993 KAWASAKI KLR650, ALL the specs were changed, different tank, no faring, nothing. All I have is the original seat, NO KAWASAKI, NOTHING. I'M putting it together as we speak and I ADMIRE YOURS. THANK YOU KINDLY FOR YOUR SUPPORT and EVERYTHING... That motherfcuer is HEAV, but I can't wait to RIDE....!!!.
You did a nice job cleaning it up but wish you spent a bit more than a minute showing it. I have 2 Lincolns, 1 my Dad bought and 1 my FIL bought both probably very early 70's. Also Dad bought the AC/DC Lincoln probably in the 80's that I now have. I played several times and are you saying that one is from 1986? Looks like the 50's to me. It would be nice if you slowed the camerawork down and spent more time explaining what that welder is even before putting the sheet metal on. I have been told that older welders lay a better bead cause they were copper wound and newer ones use aluminum to save money. Do you know anything about that?
Hello Jeff, Thank you for your note, and thank you for sharing your own experience with these welders. I am not a welder! I just want to be one! I did heavy research this past spring, and that work led me to the Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DC stick welder. It is the first welder I have bought (Okay, I own an Oxy/Acy setup and a small DC Inverter welder.), and it will be the last. And, if my kids want it after I am gone, it will outlast them as well. Lincoln Electric has a fairly extensive resource section on their website. If you enter the serial number of one of their machines, you will end up with a chart that will let you find when a machine was built. Their customer service center is excellent too! I sent them an email asking about the specifics of the internal wiring of my machine, and within 24 hours, I had the answers that I needed. I have been shooting video for over 20 years. In the early 2000s, I even had a part-time business of shooting and editing video. I know what it takes to shoot a quality video and to edit it down into a nice story. It takes time. LOTS of time! It's time that I want to spend working on setting up my retirement workshop, and not time I want to spend behind a camera and in front of a computer. I don't know anything about what I am doing; I am just doing it because I want to teach myself some new skills. I am a 38 year yacht carpenter veteran. Now, I want to learn something about working with metal, instead of wood. The reason that I put this short video up on my KZread channel is, I can copy the link into my Facebook page easily. The video doesn't get "buried" here as it does on Facebook. What I post here is more of a "video diary" for me, my family, and a few friends. If someone, like you, stumbles across one of my videos, and gets a tidbit out of it, then that is great! I bought the welder back in May. I am just getting around to cleaning it up, and putting back into service now. If you would like to see a little of the earlier work, here is a link to that video: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dGaIrqx8nduuZ8o.html Take care! Barry PS: My welder is a "copper core" welder. That's why it is so darn heavy! And, here is one more video about the welder: kzread.info/dash/bejne/dmtq0ZV7fKjPmc4.html
Just a FYI. The idealarc 250 looked like that with the round top from around 1956 to 1989 then to the flat top versions that are still in production
Any update on the trolley and I beam yet?
I decided not to use it for this application. After doing more accurate measuring, that revealed that I needed maximum height. This is why I went in this direction. I do have plans to use the trolley and I-beam outside. But, that won't happen until sometime next year.
Do you still have Oxy?
Yes.
Vintage madness , I love it .
Nice , that looks like a LeBlond lathe I had in the 80's . I thought mine was about 1900 . Can we see the mill ?
Follow this link: m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid0AZxQCATR5EzD4CQMAmR2C2VzNtGfmrg57p4Vfk9SFe442nyEBb6LJ5rb6jwoY6cPl&id=100001444621152&mibextid=qC1gEa
Look at all the puppies that have followed you home
Nice old lathe. Glad you could save it. Having all the original stuff to go with it makes it awesome.
@Oak Stone Gardens Nice!