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  @richardfarabaugh7604Күн бұрын

  Nice!! Gotta love that kind of fit. It makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Lol.

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  @gertjevanpoppel7270Күн бұрын

  Also a myth is that when single point threading on a lathe that the compound must be at a angle ( 29,5 degrees for example). This is not necessary and I found that it depends on how you learned it. I learned cutting thread by using the parallel method. Most people who learned threading by setting the compound on a angle are convinced that using the parallel method will ruin the thread or it is less accurate. They don't know that when cutting thread in the parallel method that by every infeed off the compound we also move the compound a little bit perpendicular to the workpiece. And there are charts for this that will show you for every infeed how much you move the cutter perpendicular. Using these 2 steps your cutter ends up at the same point as when you move the cutter with the compound on 29,5 degrees.😀 Imagine a triangle with a angle of 29,5 degrees , there are also 2 sides on the triangle that are at a 90 degree angle. These 2 represents the movement of the cutter when using the parallel method 👍😀.

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  @Lukers_tinkeringКүн бұрын

  The parallel method also works but keeping track of feeding on dials becomes cumbersome. The angled taper slide method is easier to follow because you feeding only one dial and only in advance, everything else goes back to zero. The parallel method also becomes difficult if you cut as many different thread types as I do. If you only cut metric then its a little easier. I also don't understand the 29,5Deg story, for one, the increments on the taper slide aren't that accurate, and setting to the correct angle gives perfect results as shown in the video, with two different methods on a very fine thread cut? Thanks for the comment!

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  @billsbikes2 күн бұрын

  Hi Luker, stumbled across your channel when one of your videos came up on your Heritage. My hat goes off to you. Your talent and ingenuity is very impressive. I have been a motorcycle guy for many years and currently buy fix up and sell bikes as a hobby, to the extent of the original design. I really enjoyed watching your videos on your 1997 Heritage and things that you have improved. Excellent great job. I have a 1987 Heritage that I brought back to life last winter and am really enjoying it.

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  @Lukers_tinkering2 күн бұрын

  Thanks Bill, I've fixed up a few bikes but the Heritage is something special!

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  @aceroadholder21852 күн бұрын

  Good stuff. Your handbook will give you the correct size for the thread major diameter for the thread being cut. If you are doing work for someone else, always check to see that the thread pitch diameter is correct with the three-wire method or a go/no-go gage (if you are lucky enough to have one for the thread being cut). The nut you got at the hardware store doesn't guarantee that what you made will fit what they have. When setting up the lathe to cut threads there is one change in the order of operations I would make vs. what was shown in the video. Bring the cutting tool up close to the work and stop when the cross-feed handle is at about the 10:30 position and set the cross feed dial to zero. Then bring the compound slide up to the work and set it to zero. Doing this allows you to snap the thread cutting tool out of the work and you can easily cut threads at a higher rpm (e.g. 200rpm). I usually don't bother cutting any thread relief and just pull the tool out of the work on each pass. Do it a few times and you will see that it is pretty easy to do. The higher rpm actually makes this easier to do. If you are cutting fractional inch threads (e.g. 11 1/2 tpi) or metric threads where you can't disengage the half-nut on an imperial lathe with a thread dial there is a trick you can use. When threading to a shoulder the trick is to snap the tool out of the work, open the half-nut, and cut the power and let the lathe coast to a stop. Notice that your mark on the thread dial hasn't moved much past the set mark. Reverse the lathe and when the mark comes back to the correct spot, re-engage the half nut and back the carriage up to the start position for the next cut. Cheers from NC/USA

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  @troutfitter5472 күн бұрын

  Thank you, I really enjoyed the video!

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  @madmodder1233 күн бұрын

  You should make a video about clocking threaded parts to certain positions by calculating how much to sand off one end or shim with a precision washer

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  @Lukers_tinkering2 күн бұрын

  Ok, need a little more info on this method, can you elaborate?

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  @madmodder1232 күн бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering Here's my notes on it, let me know if you need some more info :) Imperial Threads: 32 TPI (Threads Per Inch) Example: 1 inch divided by 32 = 0.03125" per revolution Or .03125" for every 360 degrees ( 1 revolution ) .03125" divided by 360 (degrees) = .0000868" For every .0000868" you remove from one of the mating faces, you will get a +1 degree rotational change If you need to clock forward +45° it would be 45 x .0000868 = 0.003906" (or -45° if adding a washer of that thickness) Metric Threads: It's easier in metric as the pitch is expressed in terms of travel on the thread. If you need to clock a thread back 45 degrees you need a washer with a thickness of (45/360) × pitch. Or to clock it forwards you can trim off part of one of the mating faces. M5x0.8 Example: Angle Needed (45) divided by 360 = 0.125 0.125 multiplied by pitch (0.8) = 0.1mm washer (for - rotation) or 0.1 trim (for + rotation)

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  @madmodder123Күн бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering Here's some notes, let me know if it helps Imperial Threads: 32 TPI (Threads Per Inch) Example: 1 inch divided by 32 = 0.03125 per revolution Or .03125 for every 360 degrees ( 1 revolution ) .03125 divided by 360 (degrees) = .0000868 For every .0000868 you remove from one of the mating faces, you will get a +1 degree rotational change If you need to clock forward +45° it would be 45 x .0000868 = 0.003906" (or -45° if adding a washer of that thickness) Metric Threads: It's easier in metric as the pitch is expressed in terms of travel on the thread. If you need to clock a thread back 45 degrees you need a washer with a thickness of (45/360) × pitch. Or to clock it forwards you can trim off part of one of the mating faces. 0.8mm Pitch Example Angle Needed (45) divided by 360 = 0.125 0.125 multiplied by pitch (0.8) = 0.1mm washer (for - rotation) or 0.1 trim (for + rotation)

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  @madmodder123Күн бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering YT keeps deleting my comment :(

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  @madmodder12311 сағат бұрын

  Imperial Threads: 32 TPI (Threads Per Inch) Example: 1 inch divided by 32 = 0.03125 per revolution Or .03125 for every 360 degrees ( 1 revolution ) .03125 divided by 360 (degrees) = .0000868 For every .0000868 you remove from one of the mating faces, you will get a +1 degree rotational change If you need to clock forward +45° it would be 45 x .0000868 = 0.003906" (or -45° if adding a washer of that thickness) Metric Threads: It's easier in metric as the pitch is expressed in terms of travel on the thread. If you need to clock a thread back 45 degrees you need a washer with a thickness of (45/360) × pitch. Or to clock it forwards you can trim off part of one of the mating faces. 0.8mm Pitch Example Angle Needed (45) divided by 360 = 0.125 0.125 multiplied by pitch (0.8) = 0.1mm washer (for - rotation) or 0.1 trim (for + rotation)

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  @allengentz75723 күн бұрын

  Thank you so much for your information well described that an old head could absorb, Please continue to help out those of us who are making a late start into this great Hobby .

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  @Lukers_tinkering2 күн бұрын

  Will do, thanks for the positive comment!

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  @michaeleykelhof33773 күн бұрын

  Thanks Luke I'll try your chasing method for internal threads as i always tend to struggle with it

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  @Lukers_tinkering2 күн бұрын

  Make sure the height is correct, that's the only tricky part... Let me know how it goes!

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  @Queen-dl5ju4 күн бұрын

  would it be good to add a brush at the end of the pipe so it can coat your chain evenly?

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  @Lukers_tinkering3 күн бұрын

  I don't think that its necessary, the oil spreads from the inside of the chain very effectively.

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  @TexasReal19605 күн бұрын

  I use black Kiwi polish or Cordovan

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  @MrHuntnfish5 күн бұрын

  Luker, I have watched a few of your YT videos, so well explained, but you get my SUB for this one, even from a "Kiwi" Lekker.

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  @Lukers_tinkering5 күн бұрын

  👍Those valves were primarily used on my Ballaarat, a nice little loco I designed and built from your region...

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  @johndobbie5287 күн бұрын

  I only get chatter when facing on my chinese lathe. Shortening the tool overhang and making sure all slides are free from shake sometomes gives a fair cut but some of the problem I think comes from the speed control that pulses the drive motor and adds different vibration characteristics. I have used really old worn out lathes with smooth drive belts and obtained very neat and smooth facing despite all the wear on the machines.

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  @AgravatVishal19977 күн бұрын

  Perfect example with proving of chatter point according to theory portion also.🎉

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  @quantumss22 күн бұрын

  A bit dramatic dont ya think.

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  @dannye533522 күн бұрын

  On my 9 inch south bend I eliminated the chatter by using a 3 phase motor and an inverter from Amazon. Turns out the single phase motor which hummed like a washing machine was making vibrations in the whole lathe. Also by using the inverter It's possible to vary the rpms with the turn of a knob.

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  @jamesspry329423 күн бұрын

  Great stuff, but dampening is when you wet something down. Damping is when you reduce vibrations...

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  @iainrobinson656627 күн бұрын

  Great video, filled in a lot of gaps in my knowledge. Fire Queen is an amazing thing- good to see her at Aberystwyth at the moment, too! Thanks for such an informative video.

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  @iaincaveney716229 күн бұрын

  If you are machining the OD of a hollow job and it starts singing , you stuff the ID with a rag and the harmonics stop

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  @grahamkirk5974Ай бұрын

  Excellent video, well done.

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  @elliottsimkins74Ай бұрын

  Great idea! I will try it out!!

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  @robert574Ай бұрын

  Good video and modeling. It's a hard subject to talk about. Engineering 101, everything is a spring. You're a spring, every part of the lathe is a spring, the stock is a spring, and the cutting tool is also. You are cutting a spring with another spring.

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  @jeffwestbrook9836Ай бұрын

  Fantastic content. Looking forward to this series in applying tig to ME stainless boiler design. Doubly so in that you are addressing many of the “gotcha’s” such as SCC, surface prep/cleaning, alloy selection, filler rod material, thermal expansion…etc. Thank you!

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  @FilterYTАй бұрын

  Thanks, well done.

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  @malcolmhodgson7540Ай бұрын

  Very informative. Thank you.

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  @KingLoopie1Ай бұрын

  👍👍

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  @user-cm8vt5nw7fАй бұрын

  Why don't we use a semi-circular choke? The contacts are often copper and may have been made for this purpose

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  @user-cm8vt5nw7fАй бұрын

  Im hashem from yemen , isee very well thank u friend❤

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  @KingLoopie1Ай бұрын

  Thanks for the hints. I spent a lot of time in a machine shop as a welder and noticed the copper underneath the tool but never thought anythinv other than it being a shim. Now I know the purpose for when I get my old leblond up and running again. 👍

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  @johnhall8455Ай бұрын

  Excellent video…thank you..

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  @djfn98Ай бұрын

  Great series mate! I'm standing, as a beginner to boilermaking, exactly at the point on how to do it and what I should keep in mind. Keep up the great work! Thank you very much!

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  Thanks, the feedback is much appreciated! Check with the club boiler inspector before doing your boiler and discuss with him how you want to do it, these videos should help with that...

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  @user-fc7li1tu5eАй бұрын

  You should get a yourself a dual follow meter so You can also have shielding gas on the back side of the weld, stainless steel is a reactive metal. That thin black line on the back of your test piece is what is called sugaring it basically oxidized metal and in the future it will corrode there.

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  Yep, you right. When I close the boiler, I back purge. I just have a t piece on the gas line with a valve. This cleans up the back end of the weld nicely. The test piece should be the worst possible weld, and then you know you are safe.

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  @louwrenspenning2763Ай бұрын

  Lovely South African acsent!!. Learnt a lot.

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  @CMAenergyАй бұрын

  You opened my eyes, thanks and it is a pleasure to listen to videos with no lousy music in the back ground !

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  @railgap5 күн бұрын

  THIS.

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  @fladder1Ай бұрын

  Ahh, finally a voice of reason about stainless boilers. I have done some research myself about the subject at one point and came to the same conclusions as you. (Although i haven't done the calculations and infinite analysis) Most resistance I've encountered appears to be twofold; one is the universal gear for the new/unknown. And the second is the fear for the corrosion stainless potentially undergoes while under pressure/heat. Which in my mind is something you could monitor during an inspection. I am really interested in boiler design/building and particularly in stainless. So I'll follow this series close. What software/aids do you use for your boiler designs? Any pointers where i can find the knowledge to do the actual calculations?

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  Hi, I use ANSYS but this package is incredibly expensive for a hobby. The simulations require an understanding of element discretization; even using this software you need to choose the correct element type to get accurate results. The calculations are rather complex (coupled thermal structural) and involved, and to the best of my knowledge cannot be done without using numerical methods. I've actually spoken at a few engineering conferences on the topic. Sorry, probably not the answer you looking for.

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  @fladder1Ай бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering thanks for your reply. So, if I would want to design a stainless steel boiler my best option would be to find someone who has a professional understanding of the mathematics involved? (I wouldn't mind the complex calculations) Might not be the answer I was hoping to get, but it might be the answer I needed. Better to get a professional to do the calculations correctly rather than stuffing it up myself in an attempt. Although it is somewhat disappointing to know that the cheaper option of stainless cones with the requirement of finding someone (and probably having to pay that person) to do the necessary calculations. Something tells me that that might offset the costs a fair bit .

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  @fladder1 I think it's going to be difficult to find someone with both the academic and practical knowledge to do the calcs for you. I would recommend looking at my boiler designs and provided you keep to the plate sizes and pressure areas you'll be OK. Also, check the article I wrote in the description.

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  @bambukoukАй бұрын

  thank you

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  @StuartsShedАй бұрын

  I read your series of articles on stainless steel model boilers and found it informative, interesting and refreshing. I keep hearing a lot of negative views on stainless steel from the model engineer community, mostly from the point of view of corrosion stress failure I suspect. I have an interest in making a stainless-steel boiler for stationary model engines, so I look forward to your next video. I may email you with some questions after that, if you are OK with that?

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  Yep, scc is the main factor but should be designed for....

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  @MF-ml8ehАй бұрын

  Hello, I just got one of these lathes, But no change gears, I can't find them anywhere. Do you have a list of the gears that came with this and what pitch they are as in 1.25 etc. And also the shaft size for the hole in the center? Thank you for whatever information you can give me. Mark

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  Hi Mark, the gears needed are on the gear change chart on the side of the lathe or you can do a screen grab from the video. The shaft size should be measured from your lathe. I'm not sure of the modulus, and unfortunately I don't have a gauge.

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  @MF-ml8ehАй бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering Thank you!

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  @GrahamTebbs-vp4tpАй бұрын

  Another useful video from the"Luker"workshop thanks (Graham)

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  Thanks Graham, all going to training material for a tool supply store...

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  @altuspienaar7679Ай бұрын

  Stunning video with a ton of very practical tips and tricks👍😁

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  @altuspienaar7679Ай бұрын

  Very useful and insightful video. To add, the same principle applies to the work piece, less stick out from the chuck for unsupported material and if longer cuts are needed to make sure the part is supported on a live center and to add a steady if possible. What I have also experienced while parting specifically was that the length of material on the back of the chuck(sticking out into the spindle) will also cause chatter if it is left too long. This means you want to not only part of as close to the chuck as possible, but at the same time, use a short as possible piece of material. In my case I was parting 22mm material while making 15mm long parts. If I rough cut my lengths of stock more than about 250mm on the saw, I suddenly had issues with chatter while parting. This would gradually go away as I'm removing new parts from the stock and as it started to get shorter. Between 250mm and 270mm was the sweetspot, anything longer and the chatter will appear. Naturally this will all be related to the thickness of the material which will be stiffer the thicker the stock is meaning that more stick out is possible.

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  @altuspienaar7679Ай бұрын

  Brilliant video. Still getting to grips with this machine and I did not understand how to engage longitudinal and cross cutting power feeds. I mistakenly used the halfnut lever 🙃🙃... believing the actual power feed lever is just a select lever. (The way it is setup on my Colchester Student) The result of this was that I believed the cross cutting feed wasn't working and on top of that, while I have installed the slowest gearset, the feed rate was still incredibly fast.

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  Not to worry, many have done the same thing! The machines are pretty robust so you probably didn't damage anything... Thanks for watching!

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  @altuspienaar7679Ай бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering in fact I went and check with my new found info and the facing/cross feed is not working! But I do understand the operation better. The main difference between the Colchester and the Adendorff as far as the feeds is concerned is that the Colchester uses an additional shaft for power feeding so the leadscrew is only used when threading. The arrangement on the Mac Afric machine caught me a bit of guard. The 9A South Bend lathe I have has the same type of setup as the Mac Afric lath although the controls operate more intuitively but this is likely due to the fact that the 9A comes with a quick change gearbox. I guess I will need to contact Adendorff to check on possible repair options.

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  @altuspienaar7679Ай бұрын

  I am enjoying your videos so far but on this topic I will have to chip in here and say I completely disagree with most of what you've explained here. To start; while the Adendorff lathe is not half bad and with some tinkering can be made to provide a reasonable result, the insert tool kit is exceptionally bad and should be avoided at all cost! There are various reasons why I say this but what I must state right from the start is that while you were comparing cost to that of brand name commercial tool suppliers, If you've used any of these high end tools you will understand exactly how bad the Adendorff(Chinese) set in fact is. Before talking about quality and cost I would like to point out one of the reasons why the Adendorff kit is particularly unsuited for the small hobby lathe. The insert style used in these tools comes with a negative(neutral) rake. The benefits of these style of inserts is the fact that you have double the amount of cutting edges made possible by flipping the insert over(like you've illustrated in the video), but most importantly, the negative rake provides great support for the cutting edge allowing very heavy cuts to be made. In a machine shop environment especially when using Abom size lathes, this is a major advantage and can save a lot of time removing large amounts of material. The problem with this however is that it requires significant amounts of torque and power, something hobby machines does not have much off. For this reason positive rake tool inserts makes far more sense for the owner of smaller machines. One of the major advantages of positive rake inserts is the fact that they provide much finer finishes. So while you might save on having more cutting edges that can be used on negative rake inserts, you will need tooling for rough cutting and then tooling for finishing which is fine in the machine shop environment where costs are much easier to justify. The hobby lathe owner would prefer one tool which can be used for both roughing and fine finishes even if it comes with the price of having to do a couple of more passes to remove the same amount of material. For this a positive rake tool and insert would be the best choice and unfortunately they are harder to find in kit forms or in the low end Chinese brands. Now for comparing cost; yes you can buy the entire Adendorff kit for the price of a single Sandvic or similar high end insert style tool but you really only need 2 tools.(This excluding a tool for parting and boring bars.) Left hand tools almost never gets used and even in the odd case of needing one you will find that fitting a 4 jaw chuck and spending the bit of extra time to center your work piece after flipping it in the chuck you can still achieve the same. My point is, never waste money on left hand tools. The same goes for the centrally mounted insert tools. I use 2 tools and they are my go to tools for 95% of all my machining. For the rest I have a boring bar and parting tool. I most often use these 2 tools in combination; the first is an SSDCR 2020K 09 from Sandvic www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/product-details?c=SSDCR%202020K%2009&m=5751189 With this tool I have 4 cutting edges, it works great for facing and chamfering on outside edges, left and right and can also cut longitudinally if you do not need to cut to a 90deg shoulder. The next tool I use a lot is a SDJCR with DCMT inserts which is okay when it comes to facing but brilliant at longitudinal cutting and cutting into a sharp 90 deg shoulders. It also provides very fine finishes. (and in spite of it being a positive rake tool I have taken 6mm cuts with these on my 3HP Colchester Student.) Another one of the benefits of using branded cutting tools is that most suppliers of branded tools will supply single inserts while many of the cheap brands force you to buy packs of 10 or if you are lucky, packs of 5. (It is also my experience that inserts from branded and non branded tools are not very different in price.) On this note I must also mention that the Adendorff insert tools only take inserts supplied by Adendorff while all other brands use the same style and shape inserts which are compatible with each other. There are however also cheaper alternatives for the branded names like Sandvic, Iscar, Kennametal etc. which will also take the same inserts. Just a mention on the quality of these inserts; I can drive the Sandvic insert much harder than the Adendorff ones before destroying them which is ironic when one consider what I have discussed earlier in terms of the advantages of negative inserts over positive inserts. I might be stepping on some toes here but I do believe I am providing sound advice which will make a considerable difference in the quality of your machining.

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  @Lukers_tinkeringАй бұрын

  I have no problem with different views, in fact I encourage it! Expensive or high end tooling is always nice in a workshop but I have found I needed to be innovative to solve problems rather than throwing money at a solution. Most of my video's will reflect this, i.e. even the inexpensive tips and holders can machine perfectly for the home workshop at a fraction of the cost. I can't comment on the life of the tips as in the last 10 years I've never thrown one away, they tend to be reused again and again. My advice is always, if it works for you then keep doing what you doing!

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  @altuspienaar7679Ай бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering spending more or less money might be considered a different viewpoint yes, but using the wrong type of tools for the wrong application is not a very rational approach. Cheap here is very relative; I spend just less than R2000 for the Sandvic SSDCR with 20mm shank and the Korean made SDJCR, also with 20mm shank. Inserts must have cost me less than R500 as I only bought 3 or 4 for each tool because I could buy them loose and they were around R85 each. Compare that to the Adendorff 20mm kit going for R2000 and you can see I spend only R500 more but are getting loads more bang for my buck👍, not only in quality, but also because the positive rake tooling provides less load on my lathe and leaves a much better finish. In contrast the Adendorff kit provides a whole pile of different cutting tools....which no one hardly ever use🙄.

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  @Andy-GibbАй бұрын

  Beautiful work well done

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  @LukaZlogleaАй бұрын

  Very nice! Il try to make for my blackbird to!

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  @TheOneAndOnlySameАй бұрын

  7:30 isoprop alcohol. Try spraying isoprop alcohol when you machine aluminium , it works wonderfully ! Try it , it's like magic

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  @nadenitza2 ай бұрын

  Another way to visualize the damping effect on a vibration system is when you put your hand on the system and it eases. Obviously on something safe, like washing machine or a small motor. Since you cant put your hands on the tool, a wire of such sorts is a viable solution. Interesting to think are there tool holders in the market incorporating this method? Like adding springs and pads to soften vibration?

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  @Wolfsbane1152 ай бұрын

  Subscribed, very similar to my lathe

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  @Wolfsbane1152 ай бұрын

  Ha, just found your channel with your lathe as its the same one I've just bought, and lo and behold you also have a Softy the same as mine, brilliant

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  @Lukers_tinkering2 ай бұрын

  My softy is one of the older evos... but lots of fun! I enjoy working on the bike. Those two topics are grouped in Playlists. Some of the other stuff was for conferences, etc. So may not be of any interest...

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  @Wolfsbane1152 ай бұрын

  @@Lukers_tinkering mine is an 07, I've extensively modded the engine and anything else I can, like the led idea, although I would probably mount on rear of handlebar clamps

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  @marbleman522 ай бұрын

  I was a manual lathe operator for about 15 years and turned down a lot of long pieces even longer than what was shown here. One time, a man said to add some rubber bands around the piece being turned and I was amazed that the chatter went away.

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  @MShazarul2 ай бұрын

  Will you be talking more about the design? With 3D printing available, thought of making one for myself with things that can be purchase off from Amazon or Aliexpress.

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  @Lukers_tinkering2 ай бұрын

  Sorry, just the one video for fun.... been testing for the last year and haven't had any issues. Could do a follow-up video. These components were machined at home. I don't think there's anything on the market, and 3d printing won't work...