DISCLAIMER: VIOSIFIED cannot be held liable for any injuries or damages that viewers may encounter while working on their vehicles. Always seek assistance from qualified professionals when necessary. Our videos are intended solely for educational and entertainment purposes, aiming to empower you to successfully complete maintenance tasks on your own. Proceed at your own risk.
FUN FACT: The name "Vios" is derived from the Latin word "vīta," meaning LIFE. The suffix "-ified" ("facere" in Latin) means "to make" or "to cause." When added to a word, it often conveys the sense of making something into a particular state or condition or causing a transformation. Essentially, 'VIOSIFIED' (VEE-oh-suh-fide) implies the action of making your vehicle lively or vital by keeping it in good shape.
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my car has been grinding first gear lately, but everything else engages normally after that and it only does it when im going slow speeds like 0-2 mph, but it stops and it comes back
@@ChargingActive need clarification, is your car manual or automatic? It grinds when shifting to 1st gear or only when driving slow?
@@Viosified it grinds when shifting to 1st gear but it hasnt done it anymore today, and its a manual, and im not sure if it has to do with it but when im acelerating in 1st and ii let go of the gas pedal, the car jerks a little bit and im at like 1.5-2k rpms
@@ChargingActive Adjusting the clutch bite point might help if the clutch isn't fully disengaging when you press the pedal. If the bite point is too high or too low, it could cause the clutch to engage or disengage improperly, leading to grinding or jerking. However, since the grinding is specific to first gear and intermittent, it may be more related to the synchro or linkage, but adjusting the bite point could potentially reduce the symptoms. I have a tutorial on clutch bite point adjustment: kzread.info/dash/bejne/Zq2VytqdYpuppMo.htmlsi=j_uSmnXUipgiQcRK Start with adjusting the clutch bite point, as it’s a relatively simple and inexpensive fix that might alleviate some symptoms. If the problem persists, consider having the clutch, transmission mounts, and transmission internals (like synchros, gears, etc.) inspected by your mechanic. He can diagnose if there are deeper issues like worn components.
@@Viosified thank you so much man for the help, really appreciate it, i'll be looking into that
@@ChargingActive no problem. Have a good one!
Hello, one question, is it also valid for Toyota D4D turbo diesel engines, Toyota Yaris 1.4 D4D turbo diesel synchronous transmission and not automatic?
@@HeavyMetal50 yes, you can try the 1st option in the tutorial.
@@Viosified Thank you very much for the answer, I will try it.
I got a an issue where the car would go into 3rd and hard shift into it and when I put it into D the light won't show up on the cluster
@@AE-Detailing could be due to a faulty TCM, issues with wiring or transmission range sensor or transmission solenoid. Poor shifting may also be due to low or dirty transmission fluid. As for the 'D' light not showing, the problem might lie with the instrument cluster itself or an internal mechanical issue within the transmission. If you can, check for any trouble codes using an OBD-II scanner.
@@Viosified i figured out the d problem it was the neutral safety switch but now the N not showing up lmao but yeah when I put the scanner no codes comes up Im thinking of changing the shifting sensors see if that’s the problem
@@AE-Detailing Haha, glad you figured out the D problem, the neutral safety switch can be tricky. Swapping out the shifting sensors sounds like a solid next step. Hopefully, that resolves it-good luck!
your video is the only one that has a clear tutorial
@@InocentesJRSalinel thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
..... My truck had 4 clutches put in under warranty.... On the last 1 the pressure plate changed 1 cold winter morning when it got way below 0And now you just barely have to touch the clutch to shift And it's been doing that for almost a year And I'm not the only 1All kinds of Clutch kits on the market that do all kinds of weird things Yeah it's been making a noise for 4 years now in between each gear when you shift but it just keeps on going....
Love it! Subscribed.
@@INTERNA9 Thank you 🙏
Wow! Thanx
My Honda Rebel has developed a clanking noise, primarily in lower gears, while accelerating, and generally while the clutch is not being pressed. The bike may stutter and I feel a sudden loss of power without feeling like the clutch is engaged (no sudden high RPMs). Any suggestions?
The loss of power is brief, but it comes with the clanking sound, and I can generally power through it. Once I'm in 4th gear, there is no problems, while 1st and 2nd are the worst. Could this be something to do with the transmission rather than the clutch?
@@mountainmanxyz It could be an issue w/ the transmission, possibly the chain & sprockets. The clanking noise in lower gears & the brief loss of power could be due to issues w/ the gears or gear dogs. Worn or damaged gears/gear dogs can cause improper engagement w/c can cause noise & power loss. A dirty, loose or worn-out chain & sprockets can produce clanking noises & affect power delivery. Check the transmission oil level, chain tension & inspect the sprockets for wear, including the drivetrain (bolts or bearings, even engine mounts). These are just pointers that might help you identify the cause of the problem but a visit to your bike mechanic is still the best course of action for a thorough diagnosis.
Nice content. No jeje intros
haha.. Thanks!
My clutch is definitely buggered
Is it applicable booth manual and automatic transmission?
@@josephcarmelotes6051 Yes
Sir ask ko lang sa buttons.. Top is lock Next is Open Next is for Trunk compartment Yung extra na button saan po? Parang 4 buttons kasi sa video mo.
@@ryannlimas993 wala po function, abang lang po yung extra button. Depende po kasi sa model ng sasakyan.
@@ViosifiedYup, the same din sa akin binuksan ko 4 buttons din. Vios XLE 2022 model.
Please I need help.. on Monday I was driving all of a sudden my car stopped and won’t accelerate. After turning off my engine for 15 mins I turned it on and was able to drive out of the road but I could barely accelerate the vehicle was finding it difficult to accelerate I had to tow it to the mechanic we thought it was bad petrol we drained the petrol and added a fresh one and I turned on the car the car works in drive neutral and park gear but won’t reverse the reverse gear keeps blinking and car won’t move in reverse.. please any idea what could be the case I hope it’s not my whole transmission that’s has gone bad Please note my car is a Hyundai veloster 2012 uses a dct transmission
@@killzkelly7740 sorry to hear that. I can only provide a suggestion, not a diagnosis. Your mechanic will be able to check potential causes like a malfunctioning TCM, low or contaminated transmission fluid, worn/damaged clutch packs in the DCT, or faulty sensors. An internal mechanical issue within the transmission is a possibility that needs fixing or replacing. Your mechanic can also run a diagnostic scan to check for error codes. I hope this helps your mechanic somehow.
@@Viosified thank you so much I am grateful for this reply
@@killzkelly7740 you're welcome. Best of luck!
Naka off lang ba sir engine?
Opo. Naka-off lang po.
Dalawang bomba matigas na brake pedal sir pag naka off engine
@@kravencedricbolences1554 kailangan ikabit nyo na po muna yung bleeder bottle hose sa bleeder valve at buksan nyo yung valve bago nyo bombahin yung brake pedal. No need na po i-on ang makina basta bukas na yung bleeder valve habang binobomba yung pedal. Sundan nyo lang po yung sequence sa video ko para sa mga steps.
Ok sir.thank you
@@kravencedricbolences1554 welcome po.
Relatively new to Manual and have been having some issues when shifting. For context during my first year of ownership i banged each gear and tended to rev the engine to the redline but didnt typically go past 6,500 rpm. I have mellowed out a bit and try to give my clutch and syncronizers time to function. I recently over the past 3 months have been running a shift knob extentsion and have been paying much closer attention to the feel of my shifts. Sometimes its great other times theres a insane amount of resistance. Whether rev matching before releasing or not with the clutch depressed it should or used to be a smooth transition from gear to gear and now it intermitently is stiff or easy when moving the shift knob. Im unsure what the exact issue is because clutchless shifting or more commonly double clutching seem to feel better. I suspect the clutch disc may be on its way out honestly but any tips advice or expeirence working on manuals is appreciated. My car is a 2017 Hyundai Elantra Sport 1.6L
@@Lii-hu5dh It sounds like aggressive shifting early on may have caused some wear and tear on your transmission components. I suggest you look into possible issues like worn clutch disc, damaged synchros, misaligned shift linkage, or contaminated or low transmission fluid. Your use of a shift knob extension might also be amplifying these issues. Consider having your clutch inspected and possibly replaced, checking the synchros for wear, adjusting and lubricating the shift linkage, and replacing the transmission fluid. Testing shifts without the knob extension can help determine if it’s contributing to the problem.
@@Viosified I figured as much but thanks I truly do appreciate your time and response, ill get it checked out when its finacially feaseable. I have an auto i can fall back onto but it wont be the same.
@@Lii-hu5dh You're welcome! It’s great that you have a backup car to use in the meantime. Hopefully, once you get the manual checked out and repaired, you'll be back to enjoying it even more. Have a good one!
Thank you!
Thank you 👍✌
@@legioner9 Thanks for watching 🙏
Hey I came to do the install I got everything but then o can’t find my wiring harness I have a Holden Captiva 2011 and all I see are small little cables I tested them and it runs the test of constant 12 v but I’m not sure what I can do
@@KCCLIP-s sorry for the late response. It sounds like you've made good progress with the installation, but identifying the individual wires can be tricky. Since you're having difficulty with the wiring harness and identifying the correct cables, it might be best to seek assistance from a professional installer or an auto electrician. They can ensure everything is connected safely and correctly, especially for a complex task like this. Your Holden Captiva 2011 may have specific wiring that a professional will be familiar with. Best of luck with the installation!
@@Viosified hmm but I check all the cables and it’s connected to the steering column but a controller steering proportional is also connected to it I ran test light on the wire connected to the column it’s just smaller and does work with the accessories with the light going on
@@Viosified does the ignition wiring harness have to connect to the steering column
@@KCCLIP-s the harness is attached to the column so that they don't rattle and make weird noises while driving but you can detach them to make your setup easier and reattach them afterwards.
@@Viosified oh ok cause I have harness but it’s like smaller then the regular so I’ll have to get smaller connectors
I’ve tried this.. Napakadali.. became part of my maintenance w/out paying someone..thanks for sharing sir!!
@@aakeynote welcome po sir & thank you po sa feedback. God bless! 🙏
Fuck.
Helpful, thank you.
Damn, this video is on point. Exactly what i need, good job. Would this work for a Subaru Forester?
@@henryjtien Thanks for the comment. Adjustments may need to be made to the clutch system itself rather than the pedal as the clutch pedal in a Subaru Forester is typically not designed to be adjusted for height or engagement point. You may need to visit your mechanic to confirm or check if your particular model can be adjusted through the pedal. Good luck!
Thank you so much. It perfectly worked.
i love this vid imma install one soon but with the steering wheel lock cause i dont wanna make a duplicate key can i use my regular key put in the acc to prevent the steering lock and take it out???
@@KCCLIP-s hey there. The key has to be kept inserted in the ignition (even in ACC position) to prevent steering wheel lock out while driving. Good luck!
@@Viosified what happens if I put it in that position then remove?
It doesn’t go back to off right?
@@KCCLIP-s if you remove the key in any position the steering wheel will lock up while driving, you need to keep the key inserted in the ignition barrel to prevent that. That's the reason I had a duplicate key made then cut it to size so it can sit flush in the ignition barrel to prevent lock up. I hope this helps.
@@Viosified oh thanks I thought putting it in on position then removing would be fine but thanks I don’t wanna have an accident
Kaya ba mailagay ang belt kahit hindi tangalin ang gulong? Kaya ba ikabit galing sa taas lang ng engine bay?
@@iamjohnnycox2373 kaya po
Love u man thanks for the video
@@MrsRKhouseHouse You're welcome, thanks for watching 🙏😊
Boss pag nagda-dragging pag mag engage sa 1sr and 2nd gear ano po need iadjust sa clutch? Need po ba pababain ang clutch or pataasin?
@@lestervillalon4648 Pag masyado po mataas o mababa ang bite point pwede po yun maging dahilan ng incomplete disengagement ng clutch na isa sa dahilan ng dragging. Kaya dapat mahanap nyo yung sweetspot pag ina-adjust nyo yung bite point. Kailangan nyo itest drive ang sasakyan para malaman nyo kung smooth yung ginawa nyong adjustment. Kung may sabit pa rin, iadjust nyo ulit. Unti-unti lang muna ang pihit sa pushrod hanggang sa makuha nyo yung tamang setting. Kung sakali hindi po nawawala ang dragging kahit ano gawin nyong adjustment, iconsider nyo rin yung posibilidad na maaring mababa na yun clutch fluid level o may hangin sa clutch fluid lines, o may worn out components sa clutch system nyo na dapat mapalitan. Eto po yung panahon na kailangan nyo ipa check sa mekaniko ang sasakyan.
My pushrod isn’t moving on my 2012 fg4
@@elcuh2424 Some clutch pedals aren't adjustable or are adjusted differently than shown in the video.
Great video, very well detailed!
@@Rudolph25B Thank you, I appreciate it!
Salamat sir, although diko pa na try pero sa tingin ko gagana to. Lumakas kasi ang ang fuel consumption after ko ma linis ang throttle body, yung una kong ginawa linis ng spark plug at fuel injector , lumakas sa gas pero nag ok sya after ko patakbuhin ng 90 kph. Ngayon naulit na naman
@@reymundmacabenta1 welcome sir. Isama nyo na din po sa linis yung MAF sensor, madali lang linisin, meron din ako tutorial sa playlist kung kailangan nyo reference. Good luck po!
While spraying the cleaner, the plastic part of the body should always be put on the top to keep the liquid from leaking inside to damage the circuit.
@@busancun good idea. Thanks for sharing 🙏☺️
good day sir salamat sa pag sagot sa mnga tanong na sagot na din mnga tanong ko katulad dun sa iba.. kung masasagot mo pa itong isa mula sakin samat sir at kung di na abutin ok lang din.. yung amoy sir ng tambutso ko ang sakit sa ilong... ang tapang ng amoy.. nag babawas na rin yung langis ko.. nkaka isang litro nang langis sa bawat 5000km wala naman tagas, spark plug malinis.. usap usapan ay oil seal daw.. iwan ko. ang tanung ko sir ay pwede ba na map sensor din ang maging dahilan ng masang sang na amoy ng tambutso pag umaandar.. thanks sir more power!
@@janeangi6917 Good day din po. Kung malakas po magbawas ng langis ang makina kahit walang visible leak, maaring senyales po yan ng internal engine wear (ex. worn piston rings, valve seals, etc.) kaya nakakapasok na ang langis sa combustion chamber at nasusunog kasama ng gasolina. Isang factor po yan na pwede maging sanhi ng matapang na amoy sa exhaust. Tingnan nyo rin po ang kulay ng usok sa tambutcho. Kung blue o blueish gray yung usok, yan po ay senyales na humahalo na ang langis sa gasolinang sinusunog ng makina. Yung tanong nyo po tungkol sa MAF sensor, pwede po sya maging contributing factor kung mali po ang timpla ng air-fuel ratio at may incomplete combustion dahil sa inaccurate reading ng madumi o sirang MAF sensor. Sana po nakatulong ang sagot ko kahit paano.
Ive a question, sometimes the exhaust pipe is releasing a weird sound and when newly started! And the engine is underpowered for a few minutes! Suddenly it's getting well.. is the a way that I can send you that short video? Thank you
Your car's exhaust noise & temporary loss of power when starting could be due to several issues. Common causes include condensation in the exhaust system, a small exhaust leak, faulty spark plugs or ignition coils, fuel system problems, oxygen sensor issues, etc. As the engine warms up, these problems may temporarily improve. To address this, inspect the exhaust system for leaks, check the condition of spark plugs & ignition coils, & ensure the fuel system is operating properly. Using an OBD-II scanner to check for fault codes can also help identify sensor issues. If the problem persists, it's advisable to take your car to a qualified mechanic for a thorough inspection, particularly if you don't have the equipment needed to diagnose the symptoms yourself. P. S. I did not make a tutorial on cleaning the fuel injector system because I felt it was unnecessary since fuel itself has a cleansing effect on the injectors and fuel lines as it passes. But, maybe in the future I will 😊 Thanks for watching!
Bro I'm looking for a video to open and clean feul injector system! But unfortunately you don't have a video for that, since your videos are very simplified I wanted you to make one.
I have a 2008 Infiniti g35 Sedan rwd 6spd, only mods I have done to the Trans is the CSC delete Kit which is PHENOMENAL, also,Light fly wheel-BUT my car revs very high in 4th or in any gear honestly. And over time the clutch engagement have gotten a bit higher, My friends are telling me that I just need a new clutch, in which I was going to run a Custom made falcon Kevlar clutch just hoping it’ll work, what do you think?
thanks for sharing your experience with your 2008 Infiniti G35! The high revs in 4th (or any gear), along with the clutch engagement getting higher over time, do indicate that your clutch might be wearing out. Your friends are likely right about needing a new clutch. A custom-made Falcon Kevlar clutch could be a good option, especially if you're looking for something that can handle more aggressive driving. Just make sure the custom clutch is compatible with your current setup & driving needs, but before making the final decision it’s always a good idea to consult with a mechanic familiar with your specific mods. Good luck, & hope your G35 keeps running strong! 🙏 Thanks for watching!
having this problem now and it’s leading me to believe it’s a bad ECU from heat
an size neto sir? sa hood struts
Yung ginamit sa video po ay 63mm (+/-) fully extended.
What vehicle is that you were adjusting the free play on?...great video btw.
It's a 2015 Toyota Vios (Yaris in some countries). Thanks for watching! 😊
Ok...cool...i have a 2018 chevy colorado that has 32,000 miles on it.. the factory adjustment is about half way up to bite...i never liked a high clutch bite...on my older trucks i always just gave more freeplay to position the bite lower...like your doing here...i like it to catch about 1 or 1 n half inches fron the floor...i can drive smoother that way n not so much shaking between 1st n 2nd....ill look at mine and adjust it..thanks.
@@steverugerguy9606 Thanks for sharing your experience with your 2018 Chevy Colorado! I prefer a lower bite point too, and I agree that the transition feels smoother between gears. I hope your adjustment goes well. Have a good one! I appreciate you dropping by 🙏
Ty@@Viosified
Recently changed the clutch 😅feels great 👍😃 with great 🛻 pickup 🛻🎉
What is the reference for this procedure?
Just pure information, no bullshit and calm music. Subscribed.
Thank you so much! 🙏
Great vid! Very detailed and precise step by step. Could you please pop a link to where you have purchased the system? And also, ive seen the vids where guys switch the barrel to ACC position abd then remove the barrel. Is that a safe option? Additionally if theres an immobiliser, what do you do in that case? Many thanks
Thanks for watching! Yes, removing the barrel is also a safe option. In case of factory immobilizers the common practice is to locate the chip inside the original key and tape it on or near the immobilizer antenna to bypass the system and use the transponder that comes with the push start kit as the main security/immobilizer. Here are links to the push start kit: ph.shp.ee/p9tG46v (Shopee) amzn.to/3Yuh9nF (Amazon)
The second video I have seen where toxic brake fluid is soaking into skin. The Balloon test on another video is a good way to check performance.
I appreciate your feedback. Thanks for watching!
best informative educational movie and movie format i have ever seen and high quality & focused/detailed video filming recording you seldom encounter. kudos you have got a new subscriber and you helped me diagnose my own i30 braking problem just from watching your amazing educative detailed movie. keep them coming mate amazing work.
Thank you for your kind words, I appreciate your feedback. I’m glad my video was helpful to you. Thanks for watching & subscribing 🙏😊
Blessed you sir, unselfish yuo are
Thank you for the kind words, sir. Bless you too! 🙏
@@Viosified sir , is this product safe to use in toyota vios superman?
@@elpidiogabriel9147 May I ask which product you are referring to, sir? Are you asking about the MAF sensor cleaner spray used in the video? If you are, the answer is: yes, it is safe. You can use any brand as long as the spray is indicated for cleaning MAF sensors.
@@Viosified more thanks again sir👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏
Thank you so much. Really helped me alot.
I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Yung sakin sir, basa passenger side harap at likod. Ito din po ba cause nya?
Yung tubig sa harap malaki ang probability na yan po ang cause nya. Yung tubig sa likod pwede rin po dumaan sa butas ng body para sa rear light housing pag pumalya yung weather seal dahil maluwag yung turnilyo. Icheck nyo po kung basa o may trace ng tubig yung flooring ng trunk nyo. Pag meron, malamang dun po sa butas ng rear light napasok ang tubig. Higpitan nyo po turnilyo nung rear light housing para lumapat ng maayos yung weather seal.
I can’t even fit my head how did you fit the camera. When I spin the nut everything spins, help?
The best video on this subject!
Thank you for the kind words, I appreciate it! Thanks for watching 🙏
Mines makes a slight tick noise when pressing it down. It doesn't affect the way it drives or feels, i just notice it started making that noise. The rpms are normal but i can definitely feel that slight tick when i do hear it.
It could just be a slack pedal pin or spring needing some lubrication.