Rocky Mountain Woodturners
Rocky Mountain Woodturners
These videos are provided by the Rocky Mountain Woodturners and the demonstrator for the enjoyment and education of fellow woodturners. For more information on Rocky Mountain Woodturners visit our website at www.rmwt.org.
We apologize in advance for video and audio issues as these videos are recorded live in a meeting area that has less than ideal lighting and acoustics.
Пікірлер
Are the plans for the sled available?
I don’t see any close ups of the finished parts that are shown to the in house audience, or of the completed gnomes. You can’t hear any of the questions the audience is asking, so some of the answers are vague.
Handouts: drive.google.com/file/d/1-kZjDOjuCi8DI0HQiJMpJGkfA498GZIa/view?usp=sharing
I like these videos, but I think his club should do a much better job in supporting this channel.
Where can I find the documentation for all of these jigs and materials? Thanks
My cozen can sharpen a sward to the point you can not see the blade's edge. My short sward he sharpened for me can cut tissue with no support to the tissue. He uses a bench mounted belt sander. As to the mouse trap, peanut butter works better than chees. They will want the protean more. My dad always said, "The most dangerous thing is a dull blade". He was talking about a knife but it goes for chisels, saws and axes
Terrific demo! Learned a lot. Well worth the time to watch the entire video as there is so many nuggets of wisdom throughout.
Защита органов дыхания на высоте🥴
Thanks very much for the inspiration and information. All steps were very understandable. A perfect presentation. I guess I'll need to make one or three.
Really bad sound
I am very happy to see this amazing video
Good demo . Good info. But I cannot hear the questions being asked. It gets very confusing at times. Are you speaking to us watching or the people asking a question. Not hearing the questions has us guessing at what you are talking about.
Thank you!
Thats it hook line and sinker ill be at a Spring Workshop
By far the most thorough and thoughtful Peppermill presentation that I have seen. One of the few videos that I have watched multiple times. How do you deal with finishing the exposed end grain on the top, especially with a flat top and/or grain like Curly Maple? Also, do you use Danish Oil and then Wipe On Poly?
Thank you very much! End grain on the top isn't really that much of a problem for me. I'll power sand up to 1000 grit (use a light touch) and then use the 1000 grit to hand sand with the grain. Yes, one or two coats of Danish Oil and then 1 or 2 coats of WOP on top of the Danish Oil if you want. Or I'll just use 4-5 coats of Danish Oil until I get the sheen I want. Or you could just use WOP by itself, but I like using Danish Oil to start as I think the oil pops the figure a bit better than straight poly.
Dan, You're my kind of turner...carefull & deliberate. You're clearly based somewhere out West. Your demo is clearly explained. Great demo...one with the audience! That's a complement!
Good work,
I'm looking for something other than the rubber expanding jam chucks. What are the long nose jaws attached to the chuck you refer to at 1:11? I can't tell from the video, it looks like they are wood? And would they work for a 1-1/16 hole?
Those are Vicmarc Extended Dovetail jaws (Mfg Part# V00651) with masking tape wrapped around them. The masking tape gives a little bit of cushion and keeps the jaws from making a black mark in the 1-5/8" hole (that I've sanded up to 1000 grit!). The extended dovetail jaws work great for expanding into the 1-5/8" hole, but are too big for the 1-1/16" hole. For that I use the Vicmarc 25mm Pin Jaws (Mfg Part# V00650).
When I first saw this video it was "the dreaded skew"; after three months following Alan's instructions, it is now "my beloved skew". Thanks Alan Lacer!
Same here! Favorite woodturning tool after learning from Alan.
Interesting that no one said anything about about his turning with long loose sleeves which I thought were a no-no.
Thanks for sharing your process. I've found on my little mini lathe with very limited space I ended up going with the Forstner bit then cleaning up with a carbide round tip tool afterward to try and take a litte of the flat out of the bottom. I didn't have the room to get at the end of the barrel to get the tool in there properly to dig it out with chisels. Then finished with a linseed oil mix inside and out, if they are worried about it we can talk for hours about what they are likely to put into this little drinking vessel in the first place. (-: Really enjoyed watching back in River Falls WI.
thanks for all of the detailed work that is missing from other videos. one extra step that i will do sometimes, especially with a very highly figured wood, is to not turn the spigot at all. in it's place i will drill the bottom of the cap at 1 1/8 and insert a matching scrap "dowel" and turn it to fit into the 1 1/16" hole in the body.
Thanks for your comment. Yes I do the same thing on figured wood if I don't want to lose grain match, or when I want to make a certain size mill (say 8") and my piece of wood is only 8".
This guys a Sham.
My favorite phrase: "close enough". Wildly instructive throughout.
Could you put super glue in the crack and be safe
There is a finishing technique that uses CA glue, Since that glue was once long ago developed for field repairs on small cuts I would guess like all other finishes that once dry it is food safe (you'd have to of course confirm that). Check out the finishing with CA glue - maybe Google search that related to pen turning. Good luck...
Ďear Tom, I have did a NAW beginners course earlier in the year of 2023 under the instruction of chris Hooton in New Zealand where I live. It was demonstrated with an ordinary scraper meaning it was,nt negative rake.i have since taught myself to use a negative rake scraper, but I also use builders chalk. The idea of the chalk is that you fub the chalk on 1st on the area that you wish to scrape, as you run the negative scraper over the area it removes the chalk and the high spots, the chalk that is left behind are the low spots so the idea is you keep running the negative scraper over the chalk until the chalk h Is removed,when the chalk is all removed you have also removes all the high spots and end up with a perfect finish. I have developed such a light touch and cut all the wood I scrape off with the chalk is fine dust and end up with a beautiful finish bowl or platter. Since have watched your video on you tube I have made various size scrapers for all the different shapes, throughly enjoyed your video and learnt so much more in getting a wonderful finish. Incidently my personal tutor does not use a scraper negative or a regular scraper very often, but is impressed with my finish. I won the last two years local guide companion on my finished bowls. But the idea of the chalk is to show up the low spots and it also removes the end grain if you scrape very very lightly. Cheers and thanks John Piper. Wellington, New Zealand.
What a shame such an interesting video is made unwatchable by such sloppy, amateurish, dizzying incompetent camera work! 16m19s was my limit. I couldn't manage to watch any longer.
This is incredible. Thanks for sharing all of this great information!
Hello, I think this is the best demonstration of how to make pepper mills that I have found on the net. Thank you very much for that. Of course, that's exactly how I want to do it now. Unfortunately, I don't know the tool that holds the drill at time index 28:38 / 1:31:07 and I can't find it on the internet. Can anyone help me with a link? Thank you in advance. Klaus
Thank you for your comments Klaus. The adapter that I'm using is a "Famag #2 Morse Taper for 10mm Hex Shank Forstner Bits", item # 101-968. The only place in the US that sells it (that I've found) is www.infinitytools.com. Pat
Do you have plans for making this jig? Grts from Belgium.
can you post plans to build your jig
This video answered several questions I had re stave turning and repeatability. (Even got an "eye opener" for the expandable collets I'm going to be using.)
Great presentation, I’ve actually taken notes and will make up a procedure as I’m new to making peppermills.Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Play it back in .75 speed and it's perfect.
Excellent demo.
That was a perfect video. Short to the point and effective. Thank you.
Great video, nicely done.
Does the finish have a pine smell to it after it dries?
Typical American bullshit from a professional bullshitter
Watching this way after the recording, but can someone speak to where you get/cut blanks for platters? Also do you ever turn them green in a 2-part turning? Thanks!
Audio keeps getting out of sync with video (lagging)
great presentation . been surfing the web au and anywhere for those morse mt2? for 3/8 or 10 shank bits cant find them anywhere any help any where will help thats ....pat.....pat
What a great unassuming and funny expert. I am about to turn my first pepper mill and really enjoyed the demo. It really was perfect.
Thank you very much!
I've made several CrushGrind peppermills over the years, and have regularly used one of those for about 5 years. I was watching Brendan Stemp at the time. I'm sure there are several other fine mechanisms out there. Good presentation!
&
He is right about sanding. Shaving/peeling wood gives better results than abrading. Takes more skill and practice.
Clarification - at the 26:22 mark I said nobody makes a 1-1/16" bit. I meant nobody makes a 1-1/16" carbide bit.
This is the best presentation on the turning of a pepper mill I have seen. You have added so much detail. Thanks so much!
Thank you very much!
Pat Is there anyway I can get the plans for your pepper grinder? That you were holding up in the video. I love the shape but I am not that good at designing deeply appreciate it. Thank you Tom
Sorry for the delay, I've been having troubles with my computer. Please contact me at [email protected] and I'd be happy to send you the design
Super demonstration. I was fortunate to find this after I read the AW article. Kudos!