Welcome to Desert Mike DIY !! I joined KZread in the summer of 2006. I am a generalist. I work on all things like Tractor repair, Jeep repair, house maintenance, house painting, window installation, solar troubleshooting, solar install, electronics, electrical, mechanical, machining, RV's, solar, wind, appliances, cars, trucks, cb radio repair, ham radio repair.
Пікірлер
Back in 1986 I bought a used very nice condition 50' Rohn tower from one of my customers for $200 dollars. We were talking while loading up the tower and I said well now I just need to find me a good antenna. He said I have a brand new in the box Starduster I've had several years bought in the 70's in my attic, would you be interested in that? I'll take $10 bucks for it. Uh yeah duh I would most definitely be interested.🤔😁
I have a 88 mj with the same issue,had been searching for vedeo with how to, until I ran into your. What a glorious day, Thanks be to God or all have a purpose. Keep up the good work.
Excellent !!
Would you have a tear down on the 13.8v DC Power jack area on back of radio, you come close to it on this video, my radio some one put the wire's we think straight to the board with out the socket, I have a PS-430 to hook up the correct way but the 440s is missing the DC Jack Socket.
I wish I could help. I don't believe I've worked on the dc jack.
@@mikep95133 Know any were in the US I can get one via online shop ?
@@vk6kfk Sorry, no idea.
Technically the pressurized system was superior in cooling ability but it was terrible with longevity.the heat cycles causes the plastic to get brittle and fail. That and bad maintenance cycle habits cause the system to fail as well.
I'm gonna have to do this in a few weeks because mine is smoking up a storm now. 222k miles lol
It's helped every vehicle I've done it on.
Using acid core solder? Says “Leak Proof Acid” on the side of the roll. (Around 4:10 in the video)
“Manhattan successfully operated a fleet of electric cabs in 1900, with a central station that rapidly swapped depleted batteries for a fresh tray.” - The Knowledge by Lewis Dartnell, Chapter 9.
Heads up to all you would be 440 owners. If your unit does not have the 8.83 IF you got hoodoo by the seller.
Bomba de vacío machucha.😂
Poor man to have three bad teams.
Trash vacum pumb, I have a Uniweld 5 CFM, reaches 30 microns model 2016😮.
That orange color on the electrical looks like actual flames, Id be nervous too.
i got a 1992 4.0 gets fumes out the exaust
I have a rod knock and no A/C
Rod knock could be the flex plate bolts backing out like they do so often and hitting the back of the block. Take off the inspection cover and check the tighness of the bolts. If that cures the knocking, take the bolts out and Loctite them with your favorite Loctite. Get a freon sniffer to look for leaks before installing any new freon. Buy it now while the weather is cool and prices are cheaper.
Irf1200s
No no no .... U wont be happy, incusted driver network drom 1:34 parallel induction simular to how a loop feed works on a mag ..its fluxes the other elemnt making the operation bandwith larger .. with this is a loss of gain ...pros and cons
Thanks for this! How do you get water from the hoses out to get the coolant into the system. Do you run the engine with the hoses attached to let the water flow out? I’m curious what ya did.
The green hose was the fresh water supply. The brown hose was the drain from the cooling system to nearby bushes.
Great video! And good tips on the testing. I have to do that now because it still isn’t charging.🥴I’m sure it sounds crazy but I just did the water pump and idler pulley and generator yesterday and I looked at this and said no stinking way I want to fight this. I pulled the radiator and everything else was easy after that. It’s a super easy job and makes everything after that a piece of cake. Even getting the wires in and out is easy. Took maybe an extra 20 minutes at most. Well worth the time spent.
Great idea !!
What transmission is this on? Ba10 ?
AX5 as I recall.
The 1988 Renix 4.0L has plastic quick disconnect fittings on the front and rear fuel lines. Any idea what those part numbers are? Id like to replace my 35 year old parts with brand new ones.
I've never needed to replace those connectors. Your new ones will be made in China. Is it worth the risk ?
it looks like relaxing sleep for me though
Sleep matters a lot !!!
What brand is this exhaust fan? See those covers but don't know the brand
The fan is original to the house built in 1994. No idea what brand it is.
Hey there, i have a question Do you need to change the air compressor inlet as you change the seals or do you just take one spark plug and change the seals one by one? Also do we need to put the cylinders to top dead center or bottom dead center, i read something about that in the internet or is that only for string method?
I did it one cylinder at a time, using exactly 20 psi of reliable air pressure. That's the key !! For extra safety, I put each piston at top dead center as well.
Backfire could be caused from your exhaust having too much sit in the chimney. It could also because of your intake airflow not getting enough flow in your burn pot. Also needs to be cleaned where the air can get to it.
I have a 99v2 that was losing receive and was told it was the echo board. They fixed it and now the NB/ANL doesn’t work. I do t know what to do with it
Yep, your 30 is missing a diverter plate thst needs to cover the upper heat-exchanger tube bundles. Seeing some bigger particles, still burning going directly past the tubes, into the exhsust circuit. That it self could be sending 'avaible outgassing particles' into the exhsust. Get enough over time, and when the unit get heat soaked after enough time, and with a long lenght of exit run, it could be much if the cause.
Thinking about your backfires, and how they might be initiated. FYI, in a auto's exhaust, when unburnt fuel gets into the exhaust, just like the buzz-bombs, something ignites it and it rapidly "deflagrates'. Eg. like gas spilled on a floor that gets ignited by a spark. Woosh, heat & light! . But the tube contains the expansion of heated gases, and it turns into a pressure pulse, with a need to get reduced. Thus, stuff flows in both directions from the backfire's unplanned ignition zone. So, that "woosh", is either transient and stops. Or the worst case is what's known as a chimney-fire. where the stuff in the exhaust pipe keeps getting hot and continues to outgass more fuel. Those can melt stuff and need to be stopoed ASAP. That is best done be choking all the incoming air at the "fresh-air* inlet. I pull air from outside, so I'd go out there and cover that inlet with a plastic bag or even my hand with a glove. So, where ever you are getting those backfires, then there is say, some tar or even under-burnt particulate, still outgassing downstream (e.g. wood heats & combustible gases are "coked-off".) Once those particles leave the engineered burn-zone, and then continue to "coke-off" combustible gasses, then you can have unburned Fuel-Vapor in the exhaust pipe. Usually there is minimum fuel/air ratio (FAR) that will support a re-ignitjon flame from simply an ember. Probably happened when you're not burning well in the crucible (too high a feed or not enough supply air up thru the vent.) Maybe those "baffles" (that I also need to clean in my Optima 3) some how divert some additional air into the exhaust flow, which keeps the fuel/air ratio low and cools the exhaust flows. Thanks for reminding me about those clean-outs. I forgot about them.
It appears you are missing the baffle-plate the diverts large particulate back into the flame zone or down into the colkection trays. Without that simple plate large outgassing particles will more easily flow thru the cross-flow tube heat exchanger up top. My baffle just hangs from two screws on either side of the tube-bundle.
OK WHAT DID U DO TO THE RADIO. YOU MUST BE TRYING A DIFFERENT FINAL? IF SO WHICH ONE...
It looks like Victor wheels from the General Lee?
Many mfr's have made turbine wheels.
Clean stove every ton of pellets burned. By an achievement vac you won't regret it. Pellet head sells a nice ash vac. Good luck
I have an 87 xj same cooling system where do I pour the coolant in the over flow tank?? And how far do I fill it up ??
Passenger corner against the firewall, is the coolant bottle location. 1/2 to 3/4 full.
How big(wide is your damper)? I have the same fan and need a damper also. The fan has ~ 7” opening and the dampers I find are 6” and 8”.
It's exactly 7" in diameter.
Thank you!
Good video. Thanks.
You bet !
Man, I knew my TS-440S was on borrowed time when I started seeing the dreaded dots intermittently. I then was inactive for a few years. Just put my 80m OCF Windham back up, went to turn on the rig and no joy. Contemplated going for just the VCO#5 fix but, after seeing this, you've inspired me to gut and reflow the entire rig as well. THANKS A LOT! (Please note the sarcasm. LOL!) 73' de W1MM. P.S. I totally agree with your technique. High heat/short duration. Although, 720 deg F is plenty for thin foil traces, IMHO.
Please just start with VCO5.
i got a stuck pan ........ it sucks...............
Pipe cleaners to clean out the holes?
Start up feed should be on low, high blower. If it shuts off quickly, low level switch is bad. If it shuts off after an hour it’s most likely your high heat switch.. sensors. Replace those before changing the control board. Much cheaper fixes. I’ve had mine for 13 years now. This exact model
I'll try that as every since I had a maintenance guy come out cause I was lazy. It hasn't run the same. It overheats even with full damper and low heat to slow hoper down.
I know this is an old video, but I just pulled a Lincoln out that I had in storage and powered it up. It did the same thing. Display powered up, but nothing on the screen. No beeps, no noises, no nothing. I just left it plugged in. After about 5 minutes, the numbers popped up on the display and everything seemed to work. I turned it off and unplugged it. Plugged it back in and this time it took a couple of seconds before everything fired up. After doing this a few times, it started working normally. I guess after years of being in storage, it took some time to bring it out of hibernation.
Do you think this rod would keep the key from springing back after starting the Jeep? Im having this issue where sometimes the key wont retract after a start and will stay in the start position unless i guide it back with my hand. Doesnt take much but something seems gummed up. Thanks
As I recall, there is a spring inside the key area and down by the floor in the ignition electrical switch. This assumes that the rod is not bent.
@@mikep95133 I will look into that, thank you very much for the response
Excellent, thanks for sharing, my HR2510 does not tx. When moving VR113 it does not increase more than 10 mA, when moving VR112 it does reach 50 mA... any suggestions for me...? Thank you
Hi Raul. That was a long time ago for me. What I usually did was start by verifying that the microphone is fully working first. Then I'd find a schematic and start tracing the circuitry with a scope.
hi do you have a vacum diagram, i got de same cover side valve, but a dont find any vaccum diagram
Hi Jimmy, I don't know that I ever had a vacuum diagram. Jeep diagrams are out there.
I was driving my 86 comanche and my shifter popped off and this video helped me put it back on
Good to hear !!
Thanks for sharing, Noting you had good SWR after insulating the dipole driven element from the boom. I'm thinking the reflector and director elements would benefit from that also. This may help somebody who finds this and looking to build also.
Maybe if you are going to remove those electrolytics, you might as well replace them. Just sayin'. Also, maybe if you want to clean the "blue" off of those pins on the power board, you could carefully use a small piece of fine steel wool and rub them up a bit. But it might not make any difference. Also, Be careful: steel wool and electronics never mix well (loose stray strands!).
i had a massive tornado of vacume at the cap. i replaced the pcv valve and now i have positive pressure and splattering oil.
Where able to get it back on tight
No problem. It's tight.
Aaah thank you ❤
Glad it helped !
Thanks Mike, very helpful. Could you describe what happens when you get a backfire/explosion? Does something catch fire? where did you get the operating manual?
You can't miss it !! Very loud. Nothing caught fire, but I called the fire dept to inspect the house. Here's the manual download. www.butkus.org/whitfield_operate/whitfield_operate.htm
Im an electrician that owns my own garage door business.. Honestly good sold DIY fix. Only recommendation would be to upsize one of your springs to account for the additional weight on your door. Other than that, it looks like a good band aid solution.
The single spring that is present, seems to be a bit under adjusted. How can I tell if the spring is nearing it maximum tension ?
hey i like the ham radio stuff if you got any more to upload
If i ever do. I'll certainly upload them.