Awesome video. I use stihl bar oil and it keeps going up in price. Has anyone found the tackifier he is using? I cut about 30 cords of wood a year and trying to cut cost with out sacrificing performance. I have unlimited hydraulic oil and used engine oil. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
@m.a.l487911 күн бұрын
thats what i do with my basement stove, use a small weed torch,small propane tank,5 lbs
@SixOFord20 күн бұрын
I bet my wifes kitchenaid mixer would be the ticket for the blending process.
@buildingthebruce20 күн бұрын
@@SixOFord Well, from experience a blender definitely won’t work but I sure wouldn’t recommend “borrowing” the wife’s mixer. Happy wife = happy life and maybe a new chainsaw with all the money you saved. At least that’s my story. lol.
@davidpeckham240521 күн бұрын
Hello from Hanover
@buildingthebruce20 күн бұрын
@@davidpeckham2405 Hello there in Hanover. Thanks for watching. More videos coming soon I hope.
@aurthorthing740322 күн бұрын
....Only for people who own a tractor....
@buildingthebruce22 күн бұрын
Or if you know someone with a tractor, or backhoe, or excavator, or does equipment service work, the list goes on and on. Heck, there’s brand spanking new hydraulic fluid on sale right now for $79.00 for 5 Gallons! at Princess Auto. That’s a heck of a lot of bar oil for that price. I’m just sharing the idea with people that WANT to save some money. The work and time involved is not for everyone but it’s a choice. I chose to spend my hard earned money on things more important and enjoyable than lubricating a chain.
@quantumofconscience6538Ай бұрын
Great information. The "setup" of your home is difficult for wood stoves for some reason. Most people, knowing nothing about any of this, never have a problem if their chimney is inside the house and not on an outside wall. Outside air (a long tube from outside or even from a dog door) is always a good solution, even if the outside air is not perfectly connected or "screwed" to the stove, but just sits a few inches in front of where the stove takes its air. If a house is very new and "sealed up" the stove should start to get most of its air from the outside air line you give it, if it gets close enough. You can use PVC with the last 10 inches being metal and lay the tube as close to where the stove takes its air as you can.
@41aloneАй бұрын
Use ATF you'll never go back
@christmysaviorАй бұрын
Good news, Tractor Sply has gallon bar oil, add 1 qt STP, won't sling off the chain.
@davidwillard73342 ай бұрын
This SOUNDS WAAYTOO MUCH !! LIKE ANOTHER RUNNING COMMENTARY ! SHOW ! YOUR REALLY COMPLAINNG !! ABOUT YOUR CHAINSAW ! WASTING OIL !!!!
@Norwolf2592 ай бұрын
This is exactly what I was dealing with in a new stove installed in my basement. The setup is exactly the same. This video was super helpful and reaffirms what I needed to do.....works perfectly now. Much appreciated guys. Cheers from Alberta!
@buildingthebruce3 ай бұрын
Hi there. Thanks for taking the time to comment. That’s a lot of good information and hopefully some of the others in the community find some helpful tips and tricks from your experiences. I like the idea of positioning the wood to channel the heat upwards like a rocket stove. Consider subscribing to follow along.
@calholli3 ай бұрын
The main problem is that your basement is still relatively warm.. So the cold air outside wants to sink down into the basement and push all your basement heat up into the top of the house. Some tips I would give: Take a little time with a hatchet and cut down your wood into even smaller strips.. or even go outside and pick up a bunch of twigs.. I usually keep an only trash can full of twigs near the fire; that will help your fire start a lot easier. Secondly, instead of using so much paper.. You need to be saving your cardboard. Cardboard burns nice and hot.. I start all my fire with a simple lighter.. the paper lights the cardboard/ the cardboard lights the little twigs/ the twigs light the smaller strips of wood.. which eventually lights the logs.. Third: What I do is build a little channel and stack logs on top and only light the twigs and cardboard inside the channel.... For example, sometimes I'll have 2x6's or 2x8's to burn.. First thing I do is is lean them against each other long ways.. and it forms a triable tunnel underneath.. Then on each side I stack all the big logs I can get in there... Then I put down a cardboard in the bottom and stack the twigs and smaller strips of wood inside that little triable tunnel.. and it basically creates a little rocket stove inside the main stove. That will create it's own little draft and keep the fire going by itself.. You can have the damper closed all this time-- holding that cold air from coming in.. and the little fire will be feeding itself, with it's own draft inside the box.. and the box will be filling with smoke... But it's also building a lot of heat right away. Because cardboard burns hot and so do small twigs... and that will almost immediately light the two 2x6's that are making the tunnel.. since they are catching all the heat............ But pretty soon, if not right away... You can go ahead and open the damper and the whole box should have built up enough heat to push out that air.. At least it works for me, but my stove isn't in a basement.. So that could be a little different. But see... I build my fire up big from the beginning... I'll have a few pieces of paper in there too, with some cardboard... I light it once with a lighter and shut the door right away.. Again, it just acts like a little rocket stove and has a runaway burn right away. If you leave the damper closed too long, it will leak into the room.... but if you open it too soon, that cold air can backdraft like you said.. So you have to just time it right, depending on how good the fire is lighting.. or making heat, to be more preceise.
@buildingthebruce3 ай бұрын
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Glad the tips helped out. Every stove install is a bit unique and it definitely takes some time and practice to get the most out of your stove. As far as over firing, wood selection and dryness, wind, draft strength, and outside temperature can all play a roll. Generally when I add a large load of wood to a bed of hot coals I try to place tightly against the next with little air space and I lower the primary air control sooner so the fire grows slowly. As the temperature climbs and more combustion gases are produced that’s when I will close the air supply right down before things get out of control. And yes, even though the manufacturer say that pipe dampers aren’t necessary, they can really help control the burn, especially if it’s quite windy outside. Good luck with the new stove and happy burning.
@scottreinheller9263 ай бұрын
Great video! We have a new regency wood stove that we got installed in our basement a year ago and have been having this same issue. I tried your method out this morning and it seemed to do the trick! This is definitely the best video out there on this issue and appreciate you sharing it! Also I saw your other video about your stove over firing. I have been having that same issue with my regency as well. Its funny because we have a 2017 regency upstairs and never have that issue. Might have to look at getting a flue damper added like you did
@WH-nq2cg3 ай бұрын
Me as well.. thank you for you time on this!
@WH-nq2cg3 ай бұрын
I'm getting a lot out of videos on this subject and I thank you a lot! I'm in the same boat with many commenters that with a quick Google, your preferred oil thickener is not readily available to the average consumer. I'm so glad you did a follow up video comparing your favorite (I'd cite it by name but don't remember it at this moment) versus STP. I guess my question is; can you just increase the proportion of the STP to have a similar result? With used oil, even doubling the relative amount of the readily available STP to the commercial product you use is still very cost effective. Any insight is very much appreciated and thank you for your videos!
@craigunderwood43533 ай бұрын
Question, you think $15 is too expensive ? Look at a Stihl product, $38 for one gallon of bar oil, TSC has bar oil for $12.99 per gallon!
@matthijsverweijmeren61143 ай бұрын
I think in your case its a smart solution with the tackafier. If your waste oil is of poor quality perhaps add some metal cutting oil to it improve the wear resistance properties. Vegetable oil is also a good option if you use your chainsaw often. Never leave it in/on for storage as it varnishes up your parts exposed to air😂😢.
@kburley26084 ай бұрын
I took my brand new custom 45 deck trailer in that yard. I wasn't impressed, especially with spotless rig
@kburley26084 ай бұрын
I hear yah
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
Thanks for commenting. I’ve been to that plant during Covid and everyone else was backed up. Quality and price are about the same but I hate slogging around in their muddy loading area. Maybe it’s different now, but my customer definitely would not except product covered in mud. I had to pressure wash everything before I made my final delivery. I’ve yet to find a satisfactory galvanizing operation , one way or another. Damage, excessive drips, poor preparation, lost items, mud….. lol. I’ve experienced it all unfortunately.
@kburley26084 ай бұрын
Cambridge has a galvanizing plant
@jeanlefebvre64584 ай бұрын
Can I use gear oil 80-90 I can’t find tackifier
@JD-iy6hp4 ай бұрын
Just added a wood stove, first fire was excellent and no smoke at all. Probably because I was running in and out getting pipe to finish the stove so guess air inside house was fine. After second and 3rd fire I came across your video because smoke has been coming in from stove! pipes everywhere!! Thank you! Now I know what I need once I start my 4th fire! Will let you know if I succeed!!
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
Good luck with the new stove. There’s definitely a learning curve with every stove and each install is unique. Outside temperatures, wind, barometric pressures can all influence the draft as well as inside air pressures, as I pointed out. Equalize the pressure and get a hot fast fire going and you should be on the right track.
@wobdeehomestead14644 ай бұрын
Like others have stated that plugged hole is an unregulated boost air. I have a different stove but it also has the boost air and I completely blocked it off. Maybe you aren’t shutting the air down soon enough? The secondary burn stoves can really get away from you if you don’t turn them down soon enough. I also have a probe thermometer and I start shutting down to half air once I’m up to 400f degrees then as the fire regains strength and the temp reaches 600 I usually shut her down to low. This almost always keeps me in the good burn zone with no overfire.
@jeanlefebvre64584 ай бұрын
I cant find tackifier in Ottawa can I use gear oil #80
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
Not as a tackifier. That’s a lubricant. Go to Canadian Tire and buy STP oil additive. It’s as close as you are going to get to tackifier. Add it to the base used oil that you are using and you should be fine.
@jeanlefebvre64584 ай бұрын
I’m from Ottawa ont
@jeanlefebvre64584 ай бұрын
Where can I buy tackifier
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
Try an oil blending company. I use Commercial Oil in Hamilton.
@jeanlefebvre64584 ай бұрын
@@buildingthebruce thanks il let you
@darylrideout4 ай бұрын
Awesome video, exactly the information I was looking for. I hoping to slow down my wood consumption and slow down the burn.
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
Hope it helps. Another way to do it is to drop a bolt into the hole with a large enough head that it doesn’t fall right through. Maybe 5/16” or 3/8”. Then you can easily pull it back out if the burn is too slow or the weather is warm and the draft is low . Some people say the steel wool will burn up, but that hasn’t been my experience.
@nhtom84 ай бұрын
Lighting basement stoves tends to be problematic. That looks labor intensive. Every stove/installation has different drawing/burning characteristics. Your mileage may vary. I have direct access to the inside of the stovepipe and stick a heat gun in there and let it run until it draws - about 30 seconds for my installation. I set the fire in the mean time and light it when the chimney is ready. Starting room temperature is often 40°F. My stove tends to be difficult to light so I cheat by bringing hot coals from my other stove in a small covered metal bucket. Beware if you have pets or little kids around. Birch bark also makes for great fire starting material.
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. That’s a great idea about moving the coals. My upstairs stove runs 24/7 so I have an ample supply. This winter has been so mild I’ve only run the basement stove about once per week, usually on the weekends when the whole family is home. I would say I had a downdraft about 25% of the time but never had a smoke out. Opening the window makes a big difference for me and a bit of heat with the torch gets the draft heading in the right direction. Next time I’ll give the coal idea a try. Lots of good ideas have been brought up in the comments.
@Kriss_L4 ай бұрын
I've had a Regency woodstove for almost three years and it still doesn't work. Regency won't talk to owners, only dealers. Total crap.
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
What wasn’t working? Is there a Regency Internet forum where you can post your experience and maybe get some feedback?
@Kriss_L4 ай бұрын
@@buildingthebruce One day it just started blowing smoke and flame into the room when the door was opened more than about 1/4 inch. The installer has looked at it, and is totally baffled. Still waiting to hear back from Regency (through the dealer, of course).
@davidpeckham24054 ай бұрын
looking forward to it
@kenberscheit9485 ай бұрын
just stocked up for the season and only paid less then 8.00/gallon for commercially available oil , name brand
@buildingthebruce5 ай бұрын
That’s a lot better than any price I’ve seen or have been reported in the comments. Good deal for sure. Maybe prices are going to head back down for summer weight oil. I’m actually heading to Husqvarna dealership this week, I’ll let you know the prices out here in Southern Ontario.
@buildingthebruce4 ай бұрын
$31.00 for Husky 3.78 litres. Sounds like you got a great deal!
@sylvacomeau56785 ай бұрын
when that happens, i just open the door or a window for a few minutes and it does the trick
@philliphall51985 ай бұрын
I store all my pitchers and funnels in a plastic trash bag, keep them clean 😊😊
@philliphall51985 ай бұрын
Only problem with stp is mixing it up with used oil , I heat it on bbq pit and drill to mix it Works ok ✅ to make 4 gallons 😊
@philliphall51985 ай бұрын
I mix 2 gallons of used motor oil with one gallon of TSC bar oil Works great for me 😊😊😊
@scottsluggosrule46705 ай бұрын
Sounds like you definitely have a draft issue...and window may help..but if the flue is clean and the pipe long enough that 62F air should want to naturally flow up the chimney. That 90degree bend works against you (get a 45 if it will work) but I suspect you outside stack should be higher. Also screens on caps get clogged. Do you have an radon gas removal system in the basement--its job is to create a negative pressure there. If so opening a window is probably your only option.
@kevinkircher92745 ай бұрын
When you added the steel wool, you restricted the air source to the primary, not the secondary. The secondary burn is there to completely burn any of the gasified vapors. But the secondary burn will not control the intensity of the fire. The intensity of the fire is controlled by the primary air source which is throttled by your adjustment lever. But there is a fixed hole next to the adjustment lever which you cannot reduce because it’s an open fixed hole. If you want to reduce the minimum burn rate, you should adjust the size of the fixed open hole by obstructing it a small amount.
@russellrains48775 ай бұрын
Red Transmission fluid is also great to add to your Bar & Chain oil because it has excellent friction modifiers.
@russellrains48775 ай бұрын
STP Oil Treatment is a tackifier.
@dubehigh5 ай бұрын
Pro tip: put a hairdryer on high in the wood stove for 5 mins. Then start your fire. The chimney must be hot before starting the fire.
@petersarian15775 ай бұрын
Thank you for this! Will give it a try. Quick question when do you start closing the air control? And do you do it gradually or all at once?
@buildingthebruce5 ай бұрын
Hello. I close the air control gradually. Sometimes I will make adjustments both ways until I get the proper burn. I use the stove pipe thermometer to guide my decision making. Generally, when I leave the stove overnight I have the air control 7/8 of the way closed. That gives me 6-8 hours of usable heat, enough coals for an easy relight in the morning and clear glass so I know I had a clean burning fire. Hope this helps you out.
@ggergg64235 ай бұрын
My PE stove was leaking air around the ash flapper causing high burn rates. During the off-season, I put a flashlight under it and saw lots of light around the flapper. I "fixed" it myself as the dealer and PE were useless to get it fixed under warranty. I think the door gasket needs to be replaced as it will burn a tad too fast if I am not watching it closely.
@buildingthebruce5 ай бұрын
The ash flapper is something that I have never thought of checking. Now you have me thinking….. That’s a great tip. I know the door glass gasket is good, I’ve checked it with a piece of paper folded over and closed the door and it’s tight to pull out all the way around. I did have to adjust the door latch-catch on both the stove and the insert after about 5 years so I’m thinking as the gasket flattened out I compensated for that with the door latch. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience. What was your fix for the ash flapper? I’m imagining that a small gasket could be made with high temperature silicone?
@ggergg64235 ай бұрын
@@buildingthebruce I used some high temp self adhesive gasket material and lined the flapper with it where it meets the stove port/ash tube, seals perfect. It is a little tricky getting in there, I went through the stove door after removing the bricks, and then pulled the flapper lever to give me the room I needed. I cleaned the flapper edges with DA to make sure the gasket stuck well. I am not sure this solution would work well if you continue to use the ash dump/flapper? Maybe it would, I just shovel out my ash now.
@PeterLee-zn3jl5 ай бұрын
You also have neg pressure inside house from OTHER STOVE..LOL
@buildingthebruce5 ай бұрын
Yes, you are correct. Cooktop exhaust fan, 2 bathroom exhaust fans, clothes dryer and that extra stove all contribute to the negative pressure. I believe all new homes are built with a make up air exchanger to help combat this exact issue.
@dw60905 ай бұрын
Question is does it stay blended or does it seperate
@buildingthebruce5 ай бұрын
It 100% stays blended. Thanks for watching.
@denislosieroutdoors5 ай бұрын
Wonder if u doubled the amount of stp if that would help... Thanks for sharing
@buildingthebruce5 ай бұрын
@@denislosieroutdoors I have a feeling that it would. I’m going to do some testing soon and I’ll try that. Thanks for watching.
@terrybaltzer79055 ай бұрын
Use half oil and half chain oil
@riseandshine57065 ай бұрын
I have the exact wood stove (it’s great) an that lever use to smother the flame until it went out but now it doesn’t seem to.
@buildingthebruce5 ай бұрын
Hello. Mine would never snuff out the fire, even when it was new. I think the stove is designed to keep a low clean burning fire, even when the air control is completely closed. This helps PE meet the strict environmental standards for modern wood stoves.
@itsyurb0ylayy46 ай бұрын
Question: what size fan is that 12 inches? What setting do you run it. 1,2,3?
@buildingthebruce6 ай бұрын
It’s 12”. I’ll run it on all speeds depending on how hot the fire is. Usually it’s on speed 1. I’m a big believer of fans. Really helps to move the warm air around. Plus you get radiant and convection heat from the same amount of wood. Thanks for watching.
@SkyTouch086 ай бұрын
Nice footage. New Subscriber
@buildingthebruce6 ай бұрын
Thanks. I’m really just getting started with the drone. I see your flying is at a much more advanced level. It’s a pretty awesome piece of technology for sure. Hopefully I can incorporate footage into more of my projects as I become more confident.
@SkyTouch086 ай бұрын
@@buildingthebruce You will my friend it just takes practice
Пікірлер
Awesome video. I use stihl bar oil and it keeps going up in price. Has anyone found the tackifier he is using? I cut about 30 cords of wood a year and trying to cut cost with out sacrificing performance. I have unlimited hydraulic oil and used engine oil. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
thats what i do with my basement stove, use a small weed torch,small propane tank,5 lbs
I bet my wifes kitchenaid mixer would be the ticket for the blending process.
@@SixOFord Well, from experience a blender definitely won’t work but I sure wouldn’t recommend “borrowing” the wife’s mixer. Happy wife = happy life and maybe a new chainsaw with all the money you saved. At least that’s my story. lol.
Hello from Hanover
@@davidpeckham2405 Hello there in Hanover. Thanks for watching. More videos coming soon I hope.
....Only for people who own a tractor....
Or if you know someone with a tractor, or backhoe, or excavator, or does equipment service work, the list goes on and on. Heck, there’s brand spanking new hydraulic fluid on sale right now for $79.00 for 5 Gallons! at Princess Auto. That’s a heck of a lot of bar oil for that price. I’m just sharing the idea with people that WANT to save some money. The work and time involved is not for everyone but it’s a choice. I chose to spend my hard earned money on things more important and enjoyable than lubricating a chain.
Great information. The "setup" of your home is difficult for wood stoves for some reason. Most people, knowing nothing about any of this, never have a problem if their chimney is inside the house and not on an outside wall. Outside air (a long tube from outside or even from a dog door) is always a good solution, even if the outside air is not perfectly connected or "screwed" to the stove, but just sits a few inches in front of where the stove takes its air. If a house is very new and "sealed up" the stove should start to get most of its air from the outside air line you give it, if it gets close enough. You can use PVC with the last 10 inches being metal and lay the tube as close to where the stove takes its air as you can.
Use ATF you'll never go back
Good news, Tractor Sply has gallon bar oil, add 1 qt STP, won't sling off the chain.
This SOUNDS WAAYTOO MUCH !! LIKE ANOTHER RUNNING COMMENTARY ! SHOW ! YOUR REALLY COMPLAINNG !! ABOUT YOUR CHAINSAW ! WASTING OIL !!!!
This is exactly what I was dealing with in a new stove installed in my basement. The setup is exactly the same. This video was super helpful and reaffirms what I needed to do.....works perfectly now. Much appreciated guys. Cheers from Alberta!
Hi there. Thanks for taking the time to comment. That’s a lot of good information and hopefully some of the others in the community find some helpful tips and tricks from your experiences. I like the idea of positioning the wood to channel the heat upwards like a rocket stove. Consider subscribing to follow along.
The main problem is that your basement is still relatively warm.. So the cold air outside wants to sink down into the basement and push all your basement heat up into the top of the house. Some tips I would give: Take a little time with a hatchet and cut down your wood into even smaller strips.. or even go outside and pick up a bunch of twigs.. I usually keep an only trash can full of twigs near the fire; that will help your fire start a lot easier. Secondly, instead of using so much paper.. You need to be saving your cardboard. Cardboard burns nice and hot.. I start all my fire with a simple lighter.. the paper lights the cardboard/ the cardboard lights the little twigs/ the twigs light the smaller strips of wood.. which eventually lights the logs.. Third: What I do is build a little channel and stack logs on top and only light the twigs and cardboard inside the channel.... For example, sometimes I'll have 2x6's or 2x8's to burn.. First thing I do is is lean them against each other long ways.. and it forms a triable tunnel underneath.. Then on each side I stack all the big logs I can get in there... Then I put down a cardboard in the bottom and stack the twigs and smaller strips of wood inside that little triable tunnel.. and it basically creates a little rocket stove inside the main stove. That will create it's own little draft and keep the fire going by itself.. You can have the damper closed all this time-- holding that cold air from coming in.. and the little fire will be feeding itself, with it's own draft inside the box.. and the box will be filling with smoke... But it's also building a lot of heat right away. Because cardboard burns hot and so do small twigs... and that will almost immediately light the two 2x6's that are making the tunnel.. since they are catching all the heat............ But pretty soon, if not right away... You can go ahead and open the damper and the whole box should have built up enough heat to push out that air.. At least it works for me, but my stove isn't in a basement.. So that could be a little different. But see... I build my fire up big from the beginning... I'll have a few pieces of paper in there too, with some cardboard... I light it once with a lighter and shut the door right away.. Again, it just acts like a little rocket stove and has a runaway burn right away. If you leave the damper closed too long, it will leak into the room.... but if you open it too soon, that cold air can backdraft like you said.. So you have to just time it right, depending on how good the fire is lighting.. or making heat, to be more preceise.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Glad the tips helped out. Every stove install is a bit unique and it definitely takes some time and practice to get the most out of your stove. As far as over firing, wood selection and dryness, wind, draft strength, and outside temperature can all play a roll. Generally when I add a large load of wood to a bed of hot coals I try to place tightly against the next with little air space and I lower the primary air control sooner so the fire grows slowly. As the temperature climbs and more combustion gases are produced that’s when I will close the air supply right down before things get out of control. And yes, even though the manufacturer say that pipe dampers aren’t necessary, they can really help control the burn, especially if it’s quite windy outside. Good luck with the new stove and happy burning.
Great video! We have a new regency wood stove that we got installed in our basement a year ago and have been having this same issue. I tried your method out this morning and it seemed to do the trick! This is definitely the best video out there on this issue and appreciate you sharing it! Also I saw your other video about your stove over firing. I have been having that same issue with my regency as well. Its funny because we have a 2017 regency upstairs and never have that issue. Might have to look at getting a flue damper added like you did
Me as well.. thank you for you time on this!
I'm getting a lot out of videos on this subject and I thank you a lot! I'm in the same boat with many commenters that with a quick Google, your preferred oil thickener is not readily available to the average consumer. I'm so glad you did a follow up video comparing your favorite (I'd cite it by name but don't remember it at this moment) versus STP. I guess my question is; can you just increase the proportion of the STP to have a similar result? With used oil, even doubling the relative amount of the readily available STP to the commercial product you use is still very cost effective. Any insight is very much appreciated and thank you for your videos!
Question, you think $15 is too expensive ? Look at a Stihl product, $38 for one gallon of bar oil, TSC has bar oil for $12.99 per gallon!
I think in your case its a smart solution with the tackafier. If your waste oil is of poor quality perhaps add some metal cutting oil to it improve the wear resistance properties. Vegetable oil is also a good option if you use your chainsaw often. Never leave it in/on for storage as it varnishes up your parts exposed to air😂😢.
I took my brand new custom 45 deck trailer in that yard. I wasn't impressed, especially with spotless rig
I hear yah
Thanks for commenting. I’ve been to that plant during Covid and everyone else was backed up. Quality and price are about the same but I hate slogging around in their muddy loading area. Maybe it’s different now, but my customer definitely would not except product covered in mud. I had to pressure wash everything before I made my final delivery. I’ve yet to find a satisfactory galvanizing operation , one way or another. Damage, excessive drips, poor preparation, lost items, mud….. lol. I’ve experienced it all unfortunately.
Cambridge has a galvanizing plant
Can I use gear oil 80-90 I can’t find tackifier
Just added a wood stove, first fire was excellent and no smoke at all. Probably because I was running in and out getting pipe to finish the stove so guess air inside house was fine. After second and 3rd fire I came across your video because smoke has been coming in from stove! pipes everywhere!! Thank you! Now I know what I need once I start my 4th fire! Will let you know if I succeed!!
Good luck with the new stove. There’s definitely a learning curve with every stove and each install is unique. Outside temperatures, wind, barometric pressures can all influence the draft as well as inside air pressures, as I pointed out. Equalize the pressure and get a hot fast fire going and you should be on the right track.
Like others have stated that plugged hole is an unregulated boost air. I have a different stove but it also has the boost air and I completely blocked it off. Maybe you aren’t shutting the air down soon enough? The secondary burn stoves can really get away from you if you don’t turn them down soon enough. I also have a probe thermometer and I start shutting down to half air once I’m up to 400f degrees then as the fire regains strength and the temp reaches 600 I usually shut her down to low. This almost always keeps me in the good burn zone with no overfire.
I cant find tackifier in Ottawa can I use gear oil #80
Not as a tackifier. That’s a lubricant. Go to Canadian Tire and buy STP oil additive. It’s as close as you are going to get to tackifier. Add it to the base used oil that you are using and you should be fine.
I’m from Ottawa ont
Where can I buy tackifier
Try an oil blending company. I use Commercial Oil in Hamilton.
@@buildingthebruce thanks il let you
Awesome video, exactly the information I was looking for. I hoping to slow down my wood consumption and slow down the burn.
Hope it helps. Another way to do it is to drop a bolt into the hole with a large enough head that it doesn’t fall right through. Maybe 5/16” or 3/8”. Then you can easily pull it back out if the burn is too slow or the weather is warm and the draft is low . Some people say the steel wool will burn up, but that hasn’t been my experience.
Lighting basement stoves tends to be problematic. That looks labor intensive. Every stove/installation has different drawing/burning characteristics. Your mileage may vary. I have direct access to the inside of the stovepipe and stick a heat gun in there and let it run until it draws - about 30 seconds for my installation. I set the fire in the mean time and light it when the chimney is ready. Starting room temperature is often 40°F. My stove tends to be difficult to light so I cheat by bringing hot coals from my other stove in a small covered metal bucket. Beware if you have pets or little kids around. Birch bark also makes for great fire starting material.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. That’s a great idea about moving the coals. My upstairs stove runs 24/7 so I have an ample supply. This winter has been so mild I’ve only run the basement stove about once per week, usually on the weekends when the whole family is home. I would say I had a downdraft about 25% of the time but never had a smoke out. Opening the window makes a big difference for me and a bit of heat with the torch gets the draft heading in the right direction. Next time I’ll give the coal idea a try. Lots of good ideas have been brought up in the comments.
I've had a Regency woodstove for almost three years and it still doesn't work. Regency won't talk to owners, only dealers. Total crap.
What wasn’t working? Is there a Regency Internet forum where you can post your experience and maybe get some feedback?
@@buildingthebruce One day it just started blowing smoke and flame into the room when the door was opened more than about 1/4 inch. The installer has looked at it, and is totally baffled. Still waiting to hear back from Regency (through the dealer, of course).
looking forward to it
just stocked up for the season and only paid less then 8.00/gallon for commercially available oil , name brand
That’s a lot better than any price I’ve seen or have been reported in the comments. Good deal for sure. Maybe prices are going to head back down for summer weight oil. I’m actually heading to Husqvarna dealership this week, I’ll let you know the prices out here in Southern Ontario.
$31.00 for Husky 3.78 litres. Sounds like you got a great deal!
when that happens, i just open the door or a window for a few minutes and it does the trick
I store all my pitchers and funnels in a plastic trash bag, keep them clean 😊😊
Only problem with stp is mixing it up with used oil , I heat it on bbq pit and drill to mix it Works ok ✅ to make 4 gallons 😊
I mix 2 gallons of used motor oil with one gallon of TSC bar oil Works great for me 😊😊😊
Sounds like you definitely have a draft issue...and window may help..but if the flue is clean and the pipe long enough that 62F air should want to naturally flow up the chimney. That 90degree bend works against you (get a 45 if it will work) but I suspect you outside stack should be higher. Also screens on caps get clogged. Do you have an radon gas removal system in the basement--its job is to create a negative pressure there. If so opening a window is probably your only option.
When you added the steel wool, you restricted the air source to the primary, not the secondary. The secondary burn is there to completely burn any of the gasified vapors. But the secondary burn will not control the intensity of the fire. The intensity of the fire is controlled by the primary air source which is throttled by your adjustment lever. But there is a fixed hole next to the adjustment lever which you cannot reduce because it’s an open fixed hole. If you want to reduce the minimum burn rate, you should adjust the size of the fixed open hole by obstructing it a small amount.
Red Transmission fluid is also great to add to your Bar & Chain oil because it has excellent friction modifiers.
STP Oil Treatment is a tackifier.
Pro tip: put a hairdryer on high in the wood stove for 5 mins. Then start your fire. The chimney must be hot before starting the fire.
Thank you for this! Will give it a try. Quick question when do you start closing the air control? And do you do it gradually or all at once?
Hello. I close the air control gradually. Sometimes I will make adjustments both ways until I get the proper burn. I use the stove pipe thermometer to guide my decision making. Generally, when I leave the stove overnight I have the air control 7/8 of the way closed. That gives me 6-8 hours of usable heat, enough coals for an easy relight in the morning and clear glass so I know I had a clean burning fire. Hope this helps you out.
My PE stove was leaking air around the ash flapper causing high burn rates. During the off-season, I put a flashlight under it and saw lots of light around the flapper. I "fixed" it myself as the dealer and PE were useless to get it fixed under warranty. I think the door gasket needs to be replaced as it will burn a tad too fast if I am not watching it closely.
The ash flapper is something that I have never thought of checking. Now you have me thinking….. That’s a great tip. I know the door glass gasket is good, I’ve checked it with a piece of paper folded over and closed the door and it’s tight to pull out all the way around. I did have to adjust the door latch-catch on both the stove and the insert after about 5 years so I’m thinking as the gasket flattened out I compensated for that with the door latch. Thanks for watching and sharing your experience. What was your fix for the ash flapper? I’m imagining that a small gasket could be made with high temperature silicone?
@@buildingthebruce I used some high temp self adhesive gasket material and lined the flapper with it where it meets the stove port/ash tube, seals perfect. It is a little tricky getting in there, I went through the stove door after removing the bricks, and then pulled the flapper lever to give me the room I needed. I cleaned the flapper edges with DA to make sure the gasket stuck well. I am not sure this solution would work well if you continue to use the ash dump/flapper? Maybe it would, I just shovel out my ash now.
You also have neg pressure inside house from OTHER STOVE..LOL
Yes, you are correct. Cooktop exhaust fan, 2 bathroom exhaust fans, clothes dryer and that extra stove all contribute to the negative pressure. I believe all new homes are built with a make up air exchanger to help combat this exact issue.
Question is does it stay blended or does it seperate
It 100% stays blended. Thanks for watching.
Wonder if u doubled the amount of stp if that would help... Thanks for sharing
@@denislosieroutdoors I have a feeling that it would. I’m going to do some testing soon and I’ll try that. Thanks for watching.
Use half oil and half chain oil
I have the exact wood stove (it’s great) an that lever use to smother the flame until it went out but now it doesn’t seem to.
Hello. Mine would never snuff out the fire, even when it was new. I think the stove is designed to keep a low clean burning fire, even when the air control is completely closed. This helps PE meet the strict environmental standards for modern wood stoves.
Question: what size fan is that 12 inches? What setting do you run it. 1,2,3?
It’s 12”. I’ll run it on all speeds depending on how hot the fire is. Usually it’s on speed 1. I’m a big believer of fans. Really helps to move the warm air around. Plus you get radiant and convection heat from the same amount of wood. Thanks for watching.
Nice footage. New Subscriber
Thanks. I’m really just getting started with the drone. I see your flying is at a much more advanced level. It’s a pretty awesome piece of technology for sure. Hopefully I can incorporate footage into more of my projects as I become more confident.
@@buildingthebruce You will my friend it just takes practice