Wood Flooring Supply offers all types of products for hardwood flooring and wooden floors. Our channel will offer reviews of products & how to tutorials. If you need help with anything hardwood flooring, this is the video channel for you. Wood Flooring Supply has over a 100 years of wood flooring experience and can help professionals as well as homeowners who might be stuck on what to do.
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Does that machine have a orbital motion or just rotary when your buffing?
Is the roll sandpaper a lot different from just using the maroon pad naked?
Thanks
This guy is way too clean do actually use the machine.
Is there a similar method for outdoor decks?
Good video. I ripped birch plywood and made my own floors. I like some of the gaps here and there but worried about flooring near wet areas, kitchen sink, etc. Besides a good commercial top coat any other ideas. I'm concerned about wood filling and scratching the thin plywood layer and losing the "natural" color of the planks. Planing on using Loba Invisible to keep the natural look.
This was really useful, only thing I wish is that I watched it before doing the first coat rather than the second!
Thanis for this! Having never done it before, I watched a lot of videos but this one was the only one that gave me the step-by-step that I needed. Very apprecaired.
Can you recommend a low order water sealant ?
Whats best roller type for water based polyurethane? Mine left a ton of bubbles and I cant get a solid answer. Some say micro fiber and some say lambs wool other say only synthetic lambs wool. What the best choice? Thank for any help.
So which is more durable, a single part acrylic or a oil modifed polyurethane?
Do i have to scratch sand the first layer ? Or does it stick to the old floor?
Is this between coats of sealer or finish?
usually betweensealer to finish
@@allanjerman5005 I didn’t think you could sand the seal coat. I’ve got one coat of natural down and it feels a little bumpy. Should I sand with 240 and add another coat of seal or sand and put the finish on?
Start staining edges first with either brush or even just towels, then use buffer for larger open area. That is the proper way...but this is close to professional
that not how I did it, but sure if that works for you that is perfectly acceptable. In our area that would make a halo immediately.
@allanjerman5005 Meaning that you utilize timing, a few feet of edges done first then shift to larger area with buffer, move backwards, continue with edges, then buffer again to fill. This way, you dont have a reverse halo, you are doing everything sort of at the same time because excessive spacing between application is where stain disparities show up.
Thanks - very informative. God bless
Thanks - very informative. God bless
Bona mega dry in two hours
Roller leaves a thin coat. I like using t bar i can leave a slightly thicker coat.
Bona waterbases sucks. LOBA is so much better
What are those disc called?
Norton interface disc
For people with redwoods, they make a red out product that works well.
Its a good video with the exception of the sides and edges, ALWAYS do that first, you've just crawled all over that stain to do the edges, and now you might have rag it to remove those marks. Work smarter not harder.
unfortunately, in our climate it leaves a halo. but, if it works for you, sure!
@@allanjerman5005 We leave a jagged edge to mimic the floor boards so any halo disappears
It hardens in 30 seconds??!!
There is a difference between open time and curing. All waterbase products have a listed open time of 20-30 seconds for best results. So, you have 20-30 to apply/work the product for the best result.
Hi, my engineered wood has been white washed but now has very bad scratches. Can I still use this over it?
Sides should be done first before using buffer so that way you don’t have to do extra work
Hello, I would like you to help me, if I buffer my floors with 150 grit sandpaper and then wash them with a machine, and put 1-2 coats of base oil (RUST-OLEUM 130031 Varathane Gallon Gloss Oil Base) or some similar product, do you think what would be good? My floors are a bit ugly...
Is that a dye stain ?
No, that would be stain. Amber seal is not nearly that dark.
I'm guessing that the darker section of floor in the video is the Amber Seal?
Bought a T-bar just because of this video. Going to apply this weekend. Thank you! Question: After you edge by hand do you immediately apply to the main field with the T-bar, or do you let your edge dry, first?
Do not let anything dry. Always be working together. One guy on edge. One on tbar.
@@allanjerman5005 Thanks Allan! It's just me, though.
@@ericwiley8705 edge 4ft at a time. Tbar. Edge 4 ft and tbar. Just don’t do too much at once.
Great advice. I appreciate it!
can I use a roller from my local hardware store? thanks
Awesome! Thank you for this!!!
Very good video 👍🏽
Good explaining of your technique and what NOT to do.
Are you using a white buffer pad? not carpet?
in the video, I use a driver pad for ease of use. You can use carpet on bigger jobs and it should last longer and be easier to use.
Thank you! Very helpful
Thank you! Very helpful
This may sound very ignorant, but can you do the same method to put down the polyurethane to seal it?
Hi there, thanks for the videos! I stained my floor with a 75:25 blend of stain and polyurethane. It turned out uneven shiny/not shiny in areas (and too dark). I have not applied any 100% polyurethane coats on top yet. Can I lightly sand and add a new coat of blended stain and poly on top? I wanted more red in my color and not so dark, .so I was thinking of removing some dark and add a blend with red in it
Comment......JUST SAY NO TO CRACK!......LOLOLOLOLOLOL!
😂😂😂😂😭😭😭😭
Can we use same 220grit between multiple coats for abrade? Or do we have to use higher grit each time for abrade?
water base was much more durable on your floors. I like working with varathane water base poly , they have one brand that is very thick and requires only 2 coats . The only thing is it's $72 a gallon but well worth it.
best video .spot on
About to do floors for whole house. After researching it seems to be a no brainer. Water based poly without stain all the way baby. Edit:finished and got a result but if I had my time again would just go with the click together stuff. The only negative it being less hard wearing. The labour, clearing out the house and uncertainty of end result make sanding and poly a daunting option. quality of the click together stuff seems to have improved over the years.
Hey what poly did u end up using? Bona is out of my budget, but polywhey 2500 and zar ultra max seemed to have good reviews
@@MS-hs1ew in Oz have Cabot's water based poly in matt satin or gloss. Ended up doing 3coats and about 350US of poly for the whole house. Think US and Oz don't share many paint products though.
Lol I see your door is broken off like 2 of my machines. Was actually just thinking about how it doesn’t suck the dust up as good and it throws big chunks out the side but still works very good. Leaves a dust line for me without a door. I’ve also broke that aluminium handle from dropping it down too fast after checking the wheels were clean.
Bear on slide
That was very informative, thanks.
Does it screen the floor.
It’s like a 300 grit. If you are wanting to get better adhesion I recommend a 220g or 180g screen/mesh power or something along those lines. Maroon orange spp pad is best for buffing within 12-24 hours after coating.
@@woodflooringsupply9718 ok. What is the correct grit to use on a engineered wood floor for screen and recoat?
@@mikehamilton5927 180g oil and 220g water
@@woodflooringsupply9718 Is this the same for engineered wood floors.?
@@mikehamilton5927 do you know if you can recoat that Prefinished? What finish is on it. You could run into adhesion issues
I was just curious about this. I wanted to just do a light screen sand (120 grit) of my hardwood floor then trowel fill the gaps. Once dried, do I just use 120 grit screen sand again or would I have to go to 60 grit?
With the finish off or still on?
Sorry buddy but I think you're wrong when your information you might want to do some research or learn how to do floors you must be a d y i guy
Interesting assumption. I have been featured in the NWFA magazine twice, owned a gym floor company, owned a residential company with 6 crews and now own 2 flooring distributions. I’d assume most my customers would agree with me on pretty much all these points. In fact most are just straight facts from the websites you would go on. What exactly do you not agree with?
@@woodflooringsupply9718 lol I was only kidding around I know you're a beast everybody else was kissing your butt I figured I'd be different and break your balls a little bit good video by the way
@@woodflooringsupply9718 He is just a troll, thanks for the great info.
His information was spot on you should not leave stupid comments like this ! Great video thankyou