Always deburr holes!! Especially when you want to put cables through the hole. Your machine is moving and the burr is like a sharp knife to the cables. Sooner or later you will have a short circuit.
@christianmontagx846136 минут бұрын
Be careful. Speed optimization could become an addiction 😂Then one comes to another and you realize that your hotend just supports 14mm²/sek and for your speed and nozzlesize you need 70mm²/sek...and before the day ends you design your own print head. 🤣🤣🤣 My CR10v1 is not a Creality anymore. What's left from Creality are the aluminium beams. Everything else was replaced to get that thing ~10x faster.
@joseantoniodiezgonzalez16452 сағат бұрын
You need time to dry filaments and is easy to explain. You need to take out the water without compromising the integrity of the filament. If you put the polymer + water + temp you are facilitating a chemical reaction. Prolonged times above certain temp can also affect polymers. So you have the first barrier that is a max temp, second you have the fiscal barrier that is the water through the polymer itself. There are many exceptions on this topic. To that you have to add a spool, the water need to go through that also. At the end, you are just taking away the roll part, al the other process has to happen. But you pointed some good stuff, to dry you need temp, flow and you need to change the air also to let the moisture go somewhere else.
@borissaul56993 сағат бұрын
Great idea!
@somefrenchguy20913 сағат бұрын
Subscribed We NEED A V2 !
@christiaanventer81833 сағат бұрын
For some reason I thought you were going to spool filament around the can while it gets heated up. It would increase surface area and boost heat transfer. In fact I'm convinced if you can get a busted printer you can pull out the fuse unit and get that hot (already has embedded heating and bearings) and that could serve to boil off moisture faster than air drying it.
@andygsp3 сағат бұрын
Very interested!
@neiloler4 сағат бұрын
Love it, looking forward to the next revisions!
@eyesuc4 сағат бұрын
You guys are both hilarious! Most I've ever chuckled on a youtube video.
@mgobluevictor6 сағат бұрын
Someone probably already suggested this, but you could create a longer drying path by having it wrap around a free spinning spool inside the heated chamber. This can keep the chamber relatively small , and I’m imagining that the spool has a perforated center core that lets airflow reach the inside of the wrapped filament. I would think only a few wraps around could create decent amounts of exposed length so you don’t have overlapping layers on the spool like you would with a full spool.
@karmanyaahm6 сағат бұрын
More cans!!!
@climbon31576 сағат бұрын
Yes, replace dryer boxes forever by creating an in-line dryer, but also including a dryer box. Make it make sense.
@N1ghtR1der6666 сағат бұрын
looking forward to v2
@patrickdupuis25356 сағат бұрын
Yes v2 I want/need it. I subscribed, want to see more.
@alonsocambronero56637 сағат бұрын
My ideas: If you blow hot humid air into the filament, you won't remove the humidity. Also, the time the filament spends inside the in-line-dryer is too short.
@justinmorris219910 сағат бұрын
I would love to see a refined V2!
10 сағат бұрын
FI-LA-MENT, You're a GENIUS! Always thanks for your time and tests realized, making 3D way better! From Uruguay, regards. PD: I'll be waiting for part 2.
@Rottwiler4410 сағат бұрын
What if you used PVC piping with an old hair dryer element and a fan? Cut two holes in the pipe, one at the top and one at the bottom on opposite sides, and have the hair dryer element at the bottom and the fan at the top blowing out of the pipe, drawing air in through the hair dryer, while taking advantage of thermodynamics? (hot air rises)
@yansakovich10 сағат бұрын
I didn't understand, how did a dry box help to improve printing quality?
@patrickriggs343311 сағат бұрын
I would be very interested as I do not have a reason for multicolor printing, but I am constantly changing out colors for individual orders
@RzekiLupus12 сағат бұрын
Yes please! I'm so totally going to make a can dryer now and have some fun on my own, though I doubt I'll have anywhere near as much expertise as you do. I'll be watching anxiously!
@Cheticus12 сағат бұрын
Hello, I worked on 3D printer filament drying for some time, and can give you some rough perspective. In-line filament drying is possible, and you highlighted some of the key issues with conventional drying. This is a problem with many layers. I will lay a few out for you. Drying the spool from the outside is very inefficient, as you point out, because inner layers of filament are subject to stagnant air or stagnant filament next to them, and so the diffusion time is very long. When filament is first made, it is often made by heating up raw material, extruding and pulling that material through a water bath to cool it down, and winding. That means the material starts wet. Some companies then vacuum dry their filaments. There are multiple diffusion problems that must be solved. Firstly, the diffusion of water into filament (I worked primarily on nylons, but this is applicable to any filament that is hygroscopic) is a history based process. Time, temperature, and humidity are what matter. But not just the humidity of the air, but the humidity of the bits of air right next to the filament. This is what your fans are helping with. If you use hot air to dry a filament "in-line", with no fan, you are relying on natural convection, either driven by buoyancy from concentration gradient changes from water vapor differences, or from small temperature changes in the air. Forced convection replaces the air immediately next to the filament with new air that has the ambient humidity, which ideally you would want to be dry. Your experiment with the silica beads and fans shows this behavior. If you wanted to dry a volume of air as quickly as possible, you should blow the air directly through the dessicant. This will cause the water vapor molecules to hit the little dessicant jagged edges and adsorb onto them. This will also use up your dessicant faster. Similarly, this works in reverse--like your experiment. So, time also matters. Diffusion is driven by this number called the diffusion coefficient. It is very much analogous to conductive heat transfer (actually, the math is identical for thermal diffusivity versus mass diffusivity, it is just that thermal diffusivity is k/(rho*cp), and mass diffusivity doesn't have that analogous breakdown. The diffusivity of water into nylon is slow. This means that if you have nylon which is soaked fully in water, it will take a long time to pull the moisture from the center of the nylon (r=0), even if you are driving the fans and causing the gradient to be large at the surface. Increasing temperature helps to increase diffusivity. This also means that if you BRIEFLY expose filament to moisture, even dunking it in water for a few moments, it is possible to dry it very quickly, because the water has not diffused deep into the material. The quicker you begin drying it the better, because you want to keep the moisture at the surface where it is quicker to extract. I was able to demonstrate this with moisture analysis in my past life. So that is the first radial diffusion problem, the filament itself. Now you have spools. Spools diffuse much slower because of their thickness, and some can be made from different materials like cardboard which stores moisture, or have different cutouts. These all complicate the math, and are why in-line systems can be great. That said, it is sometimes considered easier to just control the environment. The environment is difficult as well. If a drybox is perfectly sealed, there will need to be a pressure boundary, and some way to get rid of moisture (usually, a dessicant). The equilibrium moisture content of a dessicant depends on a number of factors, and their ability to adsorb (not absorb, because they are instead driven by surface area) is similar to the working principles I was discussing earlier about diffusion. Basically, you have to have somewhere for the moisture to go. It is possible to make air dryers that continuously regenerate desiccant. These exist, and I can give you additional information if you are interested. I tried to build one for cheap a few years ago, but was absorbed in other projects and didn't finish, but they generally are used for industrial "clean dry air" generators. Basically big boxes with compressor, pressure swing adsorption systems, a drain, and a few solenoid valves and some PLC to control. This is a method to avoid having to recharge or replace the desiccant, and works very well, but is a hassle. No one wants to add a giant compressor or a drain to a 3d printer, but this is life, the water must go somewhere. If you dry filament with no air exchange, you will be partially successful, because temperature will drive the moisture out...but if you don't allow anywhere for that moisture to leave the box, then over time it risks going back into the system. Also, no drybox is perfectly well sealed. The materials used to seal may be permeable (even if they are tightly sealed) to water vapor, and if there are any gaps, for example, along the filament tube (which of course has gaps, because the filament needs to exit the box), there is a driving force from pressure changes in the environment to create motion of air, this replaces the dry air with new, wet air, and you have the 1d axisymmetric diffusion problem again. So in reality, this is like a mix of the following: 2d (r, thickness, t) transient diffusion problem (spool), 1d (r, t) transient diffusion problem (filament), similar heat transfer equivalents if you want to do it really well, because diffusion coefficient is a function of temperature, and some fluid mechanics. Also you will need moisture analyzers, which are painfully expensive for a hobbyist, to verify this, with tons of test data. I've been there before, and it is slow tedious work. I built numerical models for much of this before, but the experimental route ended up being more effective than the analytical method, but this is what I ended up at. I have a lot of thoughts about how to build an ideal in-line filament dryer, and I don't think it'd be immensely difficult to pull off with my knowledge. The difficult part is the mix of experiments, testing, and verification needed to set a few parameters--basically, how long do you have to dry for, and under what conditions, to get the center of the filament to an acceptable level--and what does "acceptable" mean from a print quality perspective? These are the fuzzy questions that must be conquered before certifying a good product.
@Cheticus12 сағат бұрын
And actually, the filament along the Bowden tube is a pair of coupled 1.5d radial and axial diffusion problems, not just radial, because the concentration of water vapor and moisture will vary with r and L.
@maaaavin13 сағат бұрын
Let me ellabotate on the black box. Because I know what is inside. For instance the "material station" from ultimaker has a clever design. There are silica grains like in your new shoes (like literaly the same type, just more). They can be heated to get the moisure out of the grains and cycle them indefinetly. So there are grains, a heating element, a few fans for faster airflow and a valve to either blow air from the filament compartment trough it to dry the filament. Or to "clean" the grains and heat up the grains and blow the air to the outside of the machines. Please contact me if you plan on making such a thing. I'm happy to share how it works:).
@connerharte708414 сағат бұрын
Although other people may have invented this, this is an ingenious idea and I think that the cost of what you invented compared to the $2000 dollar price tag is ridiculous. I will be making something similar, or taking some inspiration to make something amazing just like this!
@mikecrane278214 сағат бұрын
I think you have to start with the filament reel in a closed box, otherwise it's absorbing moisture from your surroundings, and adding an inline drying element would be even more beneficial... I wonder if a perforated Bowden tube guiding the filament within another larger tube blowing drier air through it would work even better.
@alksmdlaks14 сағат бұрын
well now I want to make my own version of this
@HagenbuchleChristian15 сағат бұрын
Integrate this system into a filament buffer such as the Coton tail and you've won. great idea by the way!
@darkshadowsx594915 сағат бұрын
I cant use tin cans and hold my margarita quality engineering at work.
@tonycosta330216 сағат бұрын
Do some experiments to see how long it needs to dry? Maybe it can just be a single can solution. Also, how the temperature and airflow rate inside the can impacts the required drying time.
@friedrichhakenso677817 сағат бұрын
I like your punky style
@Buckley12817 сағат бұрын
You could increase the chamber exposure time by creating a loop to run filament through the chamber twice, perhaps adding a 608 bearing or some tubing at the end for the 180° curve, perhaps a stretched spring as an inner guide channel for the filament to route through the cans to maximize surface exposure without having to disassemble the assembly each time you want to change filaments. Could also design a 3d printed fan mount that volts to a can rather than the tape. Church it up so you can charge $2k as well
@brandonhicks754917 сағат бұрын
Inline filament drying doesn’t seem like it would be very efficient. Clearly it’s only slightly effective.
@TheWhisleblower17 сағат бұрын
Why don't you use some rollers and pass the filament through the heater twice or even thrice?
@matthewkim160718 сағат бұрын
10 tin cans
@cajampa19 сағат бұрын
If you want to dry silica gel or any drying material like the classic epsom salt. Just put it in a microwave oven.
@StephenShafferengineer20 сағат бұрын
I'm just here for the Filament music video you now owe us 😂😂😂
@apalladium5k21 сағат бұрын
Great work!
@ZeroAlligator21 сағат бұрын
You could design a corkscrew path for the filament to move through in order to minimize the length of the design. Also, if the design were 3D printed out of PETG, you could integrate a fan and heating element on one end and an output vent on the other. I would think that an adjustable mini-heater could be adapted for this use.
@Spartacusse21 сағат бұрын
"I wanted to gauge the interest" 200k views in 3 days. Yeah, I guess there is interest 🤣🤣🤣🤣
@PeTr0122 сағат бұрын
Good work so far dude!!!
@TheYear-dm9op22 сағат бұрын
Silicagel is actually a very bad drying agent (but it's probably the safest one). It's affinity to water is very dependent on the humidity of the surrounding air. At 100 % humidity it can store more water than most other drying agents.But at a reasonable humidity, like 25% and lower, it's water affinity is so low that there is barely any water it can store without the humidity rising. Personally I've always used those dryer packages that contain calcium chloride. They can liquefy if they absorb a lot of water, like if the container is not tight. In the future I'll probably use a combination of calcium chloride and quick lime for storage. The quick lime has a super high affinity to water. Even when it's nearly saturated, the humidity shouldn't go over 5 or 10 %. It's very slow, though, thus the calcium chloride. I never actively dried filament.
@TS_Mind_Swept22 сағат бұрын
It's definitely a neat idea for Accelerated drying, but most dryer boxes are used just as much for storage while printing as drying (almost entirely, in my case), so a lot of the time speed doesn't end up being much of a consideration 🤷🏿♀️ still, that doesn't make this irrelevant, and it definitely has use cases
@victorjasa22 сағат бұрын
🎉 excellent. I want more!!!!
@johanneslode200622 сағат бұрын
Great job, Sir, - and yes, I'm keen for more of your research and probably also some results from version 2. Thanks.
@koyzumie23 сағат бұрын
version 2!
@sba230Күн бұрын
Hi. I think this can be improved by not only heating, but also drying air. I was thinking about using peltier element installed in circular channel, so one side is heating, other side is cooling. When hot air is being cooled, waters drops from air and it becomes more dry, which is what we need here. Then this dry air is heated and so on. Hard to explain in comment, so I can contact by email if You're interested in this idea.
@PaSu_FPVКүн бұрын
On the spool only the outside of the filament will get hot airflow to dry. Only the outside of the filament is exposed to humidity in the air so only this part needs to get dried out - no?
Пікірлер
That's quite nice! I'd love to see V2!
Always deburr holes!! Especially when you want to put cables through the hole. Your machine is moving and the burr is like a sharp knife to the cables. Sooner or later you will have a short circuit.
Be careful. Speed optimization could become an addiction 😂Then one comes to another and you realize that your hotend just supports 14mm²/sek and for your speed and nozzlesize you need 70mm²/sek...and before the day ends you design your own print head. 🤣🤣🤣 My CR10v1 is not a Creality anymore. What's left from Creality are the aluminium beams. Everything else was replaced to get that thing ~10x faster.
You need time to dry filaments and is easy to explain. You need to take out the water without compromising the integrity of the filament. If you put the polymer + water + temp you are facilitating a chemical reaction. Prolonged times above certain temp can also affect polymers. So you have the first barrier that is a max temp, second you have the fiscal barrier that is the water through the polymer itself. There are many exceptions on this topic. To that you have to add a spool, the water need to go through that also. At the end, you are just taking away the roll part, al the other process has to happen. But you pointed some good stuff, to dry you need temp, flow and you need to change the air also to let the moisture go somewhere else.
Great idea!
Subscribed We NEED A V2 !
For some reason I thought you were going to spool filament around the can while it gets heated up. It would increase surface area and boost heat transfer. In fact I'm convinced if you can get a busted printer you can pull out the fuse unit and get that hot (already has embedded heating and bearings) and that could serve to boil off moisture faster than air drying it.
Very interested!
Love it, looking forward to the next revisions!
You guys are both hilarious! Most I've ever chuckled on a youtube video.
Someone probably already suggested this, but you could create a longer drying path by having it wrap around a free spinning spool inside the heated chamber. This can keep the chamber relatively small , and I’m imagining that the spool has a perforated center core that lets airflow reach the inside of the wrapped filament. I would think only a few wraps around could create decent amounts of exposed length so you don’t have overlapping layers on the spool like you would with a full spool.
More cans!!!
Yes, replace dryer boxes forever by creating an in-line dryer, but also including a dryer box. Make it make sense.
looking forward to v2
Yes v2 I want/need it. I subscribed, want to see more.
My ideas: If you blow hot humid air into the filament, you won't remove the humidity. Also, the time the filament spends inside the in-line-dryer is too short.
I would love to see a refined V2!
FI-LA-MENT, You're a GENIUS! Always thanks for your time and tests realized, making 3D way better! From Uruguay, regards. PD: I'll be waiting for part 2.
What if you used PVC piping with an old hair dryer element and a fan? Cut two holes in the pipe, one at the top and one at the bottom on opposite sides, and have the hair dryer element at the bottom and the fan at the top blowing out of the pipe, drawing air in through the hair dryer, while taking advantage of thermodynamics? (hot air rises)
I didn't understand, how did a dry box help to improve printing quality?
I would be very interested as I do not have a reason for multicolor printing, but I am constantly changing out colors for individual orders
Yes please! I'm so totally going to make a can dryer now and have some fun on my own, though I doubt I'll have anywhere near as much expertise as you do. I'll be watching anxiously!
Hello, I worked on 3D printer filament drying for some time, and can give you some rough perspective. In-line filament drying is possible, and you highlighted some of the key issues with conventional drying. This is a problem with many layers. I will lay a few out for you. Drying the spool from the outside is very inefficient, as you point out, because inner layers of filament are subject to stagnant air or stagnant filament next to them, and so the diffusion time is very long. When filament is first made, it is often made by heating up raw material, extruding and pulling that material through a water bath to cool it down, and winding. That means the material starts wet. Some companies then vacuum dry their filaments. There are multiple diffusion problems that must be solved. Firstly, the diffusion of water into filament (I worked primarily on nylons, but this is applicable to any filament that is hygroscopic) is a history based process. Time, temperature, and humidity are what matter. But not just the humidity of the air, but the humidity of the bits of air right next to the filament. This is what your fans are helping with. If you use hot air to dry a filament "in-line", with no fan, you are relying on natural convection, either driven by buoyancy from concentration gradient changes from water vapor differences, or from small temperature changes in the air. Forced convection replaces the air immediately next to the filament with new air that has the ambient humidity, which ideally you would want to be dry. Your experiment with the silica beads and fans shows this behavior. If you wanted to dry a volume of air as quickly as possible, you should blow the air directly through the dessicant. This will cause the water vapor molecules to hit the little dessicant jagged edges and adsorb onto them. This will also use up your dessicant faster. Similarly, this works in reverse--like your experiment. So, time also matters. Diffusion is driven by this number called the diffusion coefficient. It is very much analogous to conductive heat transfer (actually, the math is identical for thermal diffusivity versus mass diffusivity, it is just that thermal diffusivity is k/(rho*cp), and mass diffusivity doesn't have that analogous breakdown. The diffusivity of water into nylon is slow. This means that if you have nylon which is soaked fully in water, it will take a long time to pull the moisture from the center of the nylon (r=0), even if you are driving the fans and causing the gradient to be large at the surface. Increasing temperature helps to increase diffusivity. This also means that if you BRIEFLY expose filament to moisture, even dunking it in water for a few moments, it is possible to dry it very quickly, because the water has not diffused deep into the material. The quicker you begin drying it the better, because you want to keep the moisture at the surface where it is quicker to extract. I was able to demonstrate this with moisture analysis in my past life. So that is the first radial diffusion problem, the filament itself. Now you have spools. Spools diffuse much slower because of their thickness, and some can be made from different materials like cardboard which stores moisture, or have different cutouts. These all complicate the math, and are why in-line systems can be great. That said, it is sometimes considered easier to just control the environment. The environment is difficult as well. If a drybox is perfectly sealed, there will need to be a pressure boundary, and some way to get rid of moisture (usually, a dessicant). The equilibrium moisture content of a dessicant depends on a number of factors, and their ability to adsorb (not absorb, because they are instead driven by surface area) is similar to the working principles I was discussing earlier about diffusion. Basically, you have to have somewhere for the moisture to go. It is possible to make air dryers that continuously regenerate desiccant. These exist, and I can give you additional information if you are interested. I tried to build one for cheap a few years ago, but was absorbed in other projects and didn't finish, but they generally are used for industrial "clean dry air" generators. Basically big boxes with compressor, pressure swing adsorption systems, a drain, and a few solenoid valves and some PLC to control. This is a method to avoid having to recharge or replace the desiccant, and works very well, but is a hassle. No one wants to add a giant compressor or a drain to a 3d printer, but this is life, the water must go somewhere. If you dry filament with no air exchange, you will be partially successful, because temperature will drive the moisture out...but if you don't allow anywhere for that moisture to leave the box, then over time it risks going back into the system. Also, no drybox is perfectly well sealed. The materials used to seal may be permeable (even if they are tightly sealed) to water vapor, and if there are any gaps, for example, along the filament tube (which of course has gaps, because the filament needs to exit the box), there is a driving force from pressure changes in the environment to create motion of air, this replaces the dry air with new, wet air, and you have the 1d axisymmetric diffusion problem again. So in reality, this is like a mix of the following: 2d (r, thickness, t) transient diffusion problem (spool), 1d (r, t) transient diffusion problem (filament), similar heat transfer equivalents if you want to do it really well, because diffusion coefficient is a function of temperature, and some fluid mechanics. Also you will need moisture analyzers, which are painfully expensive for a hobbyist, to verify this, with tons of test data. I've been there before, and it is slow tedious work. I built numerical models for much of this before, but the experimental route ended up being more effective than the analytical method, but this is what I ended up at. I have a lot of thoughts about how to build an ideal in-line filament dryer, and I don't think it'd be immensely difficult to pull off with my knowledge. The difficult part is the mix of experiments, testing, and verification needed to set a few parameters--basically, how long do you have to dry for, and under what conditions, to get the center of the filament to an acceptable level--and what does "acceptable" mean from a print quality perspective? These are the fuzzy questions that must be conquered before certifying a good product.
And actually, the filament along the Bowden tube is a pair of coupled 1.5d radial and axial diffusion problems, not just radial, because the concentration of water vapor and moisture will vary with r and L.
Let me ellabotate on the black box. Because I know what is inside. For instance the "material station" from ultimaker has a clever design. There are silica grains like in your new shoes (like literaly the same type, just more). They can be heated to get the moisure out of the grains and cycle them indefinetly. So there are grains, a heating element, a few fans for faster airflow and a valve to either blow air from the filament compartment trough it to dry the filament. Or to "clean" the grains and heat up the grains and blow the air to the outside of the machines. Please contact me if you plan on making such a thing. I'm happy to share how it works:).
Although other people may have invented this, this is an ingenious idea and I think that the cost of what you invented compared to the $2000 dollar price tag is ridiculous. I will be making something similar, or taking some inspiration to make something amazing just like this!
I think you have to start with the filament reel in a closed box, otherwise it's absorbing moisture from your surroundings, and adding an inline drying element would be even more beneficial... I wonder if a perforated Bowden tube guiding the filament within another larger tube blowing drier air through it would work even better.
well now I want to make my own version of this
Integrate this system into a filament buffer such as the Coton tail and you've won. great idea by the way!
I cant use tin cans and hold my margarita quality engineering at work.
Do some experiments to see how long it needs to dry? Maybe it can just be a single can solution. Also, how the temperature and airflow rate inside the can impacts the required drying time.
I like your punky style
You could increase the chamber exposure time by creating a loop to run filament through the chamber twice, perhaps adding a 608 bearing or some tubing at the end for the 180° curve, perhaps a stretched spring as an inner guide channel for the filament to route through the cans to maximize surface exposure without having to disassemble the assembly each time you want to change filaments. Could also design a 3d printed fan mount that volts to a can rather than the tape. Church it up so you can charge $2k as well
Inline filament drying doesn’t seem like it would be very efficient. Clearly it’s only slightly effective.
Why don't you use some rollers and pass the filament through the heater twice or even thrice?
10 tin cans
If you want to dry silica gel or any drying material like the classic epsom salt. Just put it in a microwave oven.
I'm just here for the Filament music video you now owe us 😂😂😂
Great work!
You could design a corkscrew path for the filament to move through in order to minimize the length of the design. Also, if the design were 3D printed out of PETG, you could integrate a fan and heating element on one end and an output vent on the other. I would think that an adjustable mini-heater could be adapted for this use.
"I wanted to gauge the interest" 200k views in 3 days. Yeah, I guess there is interest 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good work so far dude!!!
Silicagel is actually a very bad drying agent (but it's probably the safest one). It's affinity to water is very dependent on the humidity of the surrounding air. At 100 % humidity it can store more water than most other drying agents.But at a reasonable humidity, like 25% and lower, it's water affinity is so low that there is barely any water it can store without the humidity rising. Personally I've always used those dryer packages that contain calcium chloride. They can liquefy if they absorb a lot of water, like if the container is not tight. In the future I'll probably use a combination of calcium chloride and quick lime for storage. The quick lime has a super high affinity to water. Even when it's nearly saturated, the humidity shouldn't go over 5 or 10 %. It's very slow, though, thus the calcium chloride. I never actively dried filament.
It's definitely a neat idea for Accelerated drying, but most dryer boxes are used just as much for storage while printing as drying (almost entirely, in my case), so a lot of the time speed doesn't end up being much of a consideration 🤷🏿♀️ still, that doesn't make this irrelevant, and it definitely has use cases
🎉 excellent. I want more!!!!
Great job, Sir, - and yes, I'm keen for more of your research and probably also some results from version 2. Thanks.
version 2!
Hi. I think this can be improved by not only heating, but also drying air. I was thinking about using peltier element installed in circular channel, so one side is heating, other side is cooling. When hot air is being cooled, waters drops from air and it becomes more dry, which is what we need here. Then this dry air is heated and so on. Hard to explain in comment, so I can contact by email if You're interested in this idea.
On the spool only the outside of the filament will get hot airflow to dry. Only the outside of the filament is exposed to humidity in the air so only this part needs to get dried out - no?