I see starter fluid will not work if injection pump is not good
@charliebrady375112 күн бұрын
19:25 You read 118mm when it is 108mm. You made a similar misreading at the rear.
@FliesGoodbyes13 күн бұрын
Very cool. Thank you! Think I will do the same. Now I just have to make sure as soon as we lose power I have some way to power it to atleast let it cool down so it doesn't melt everything.
@Isaiah_Simwinga19 күн бұрын
Do you have anything on Subaru Forester SF rear camber adjustment?
@langsor23 күн бұрын
Geat information. Very detailed. Thank you!
@ph2333Ай бұрын
what do you do if you have a electric injection pump and you put the manual injection pump. Do you have to do any upgrades to the 4160e transmission to work?
@carbie5614Ай бұрын
nice job of explaining how an injection pump works, thank you very helpful.
@carbie5614Ай бұрын
Mine is a 6.2 but it looks pretty much like yours. Mine sounds just like yours after bleeding the system. but it might just need a injection pump, but it rans good for 1000s of miles then does the air in the system again, I bleed it then it goes for another 1000 or so miles.
@crlrealty1Ай бұрын
Who FARTED LOL?
@squidflakes2 ай бұрын
Do you know if the axels for the female R160 and the "R150 Oddball" have the same number of splines on the wheel hub side? I've got a 2005 Legacy with the oddball diff that had some sort of spectacular failure that cracked the casing in two places and I'm having a real hard time finding a replacement. There seem to be tons of the smooth cover version available and I may have to do a swap of out necessity. I'm just curious if I'm going to have to swap the wheel hubs as well.
@robertkelley15392 ай бұрын
Great video, thank you!
@ThomasGoyette-bd3cs2 ай бұрын
Did you adjust your airflow / fuel rate? I imagine you'd have to reduce the fuel rate and increase the air-rate significantly to run successfully on WMO?
@itscleb59482 ай бұрын
If you blur your vision, the marks on the table in the bottom left look like a dog
@antonmartin92842 ай бұрын
Super found a video telling me I can install a sway bar in my Impreza, thanks 😁
@thesetruths14043 ай бұрын
Hello. Great video. I had a mechanic replace timing kit on 1995 Impreza ej18, 165,000 miles. Then, 6 months, 2,000 miles later, i have 76psi compression in cylinders 2 and 4 (drivers side head). It starts fine and will drive but is a slug. No overheating or oil/coolant leaking. Good spark plugs/coil. Just half the compression it should have on that one head. Could bad timing cause both of those cylinders (2/4) not to have compression? How could I do a cursory check on the timing marks, in my driveway? Thanks!
@jeffafa593 ай бұрын
Could I plug this power supply into my solar generator?
@rockharvey57874 ай бұрын
Great video! My pump is leaking from the o-ring between the head and the body, and this video let me know what needs to come out before I can separate the head from the body. Thanks!
@BanishedToEarth4 ай бұрын
Wat is z bung hole?
@Arexodius4 ай бұрын
It's not the injector pumps that suck on these GM diesel trucks. They're actually fine from what I've heard. It's the weak lift pumps they furnished these trucks with that cause the injector pumps to fail. Detroit Diesel designed a really good power plant to begin with and then GM cheaped out and furnished them with under-dimensioned components all around until they were basically transformed into something quite unreliable. For one thing, the lift pumps on these don't move enough fuel to supply the injector pumps with enough to run properly. So the IPs break down way ahead of time due to that. Getting a proper LP rated for these types of engines is one of the first and most important upgrades people tend to perform on their 6.2/6.5s. I compiled a sort of upgrade list that might be useful. I'm not an expert or anything but I've been researching the 6.5 turbo diesel a lot lately. Maybe this could help you or someone, I hope! What I've learned so far is that these seem to be the most critical components that need replacement/upgrading to make these engines really reliable: 1. Pump Mounted Driver (PMD) relocation (on 94 and newer, with electronic engine control) 2. Lift pump (People say the marine pumps are the way to go?) 3. Harmonic balancer (Fluidampr) 4. Main belt pulley (Leroy Diesel) 5. Fuel filter (I think you did that one already. Otherwise FASS makes good stuff. I think they also do a kit with a proper LP included) 6. Cooling. Duramax radiator fan, stronger water pump, etc 7. Some people say to get rid of the vacuum pump altogether because they apparently suck and will fail and cause issues along the drive belt. 8. Oil cooling hoses, because factory ones apparently break down easily. Other things to do that might not be as critical but makes them run better/more reliable would be things like this: 1. Intake/Exhaust upgrades 2. Headbolts ---> head studs (Quadstar Tuning ARP) 3. Injection pre-cup upgrade 4. Forged crankshaft, like Detroit intended (instead of the much weaker cast metal shafts that GM put in them) At Leroy Diesel's home page they say something similar to what I've compiled here. They're the experts, not me, but I thought I'd share what I've gathered from a bunch of people here on YT. leroydiesel.com/
@dylanspilak2312 ай бұрын
I have a 96 6.5 your list is really good I'm doing a lot of these upgrades now. I just replaced the balancer and vac pump. I'll see how lo g they last. I'll get a fluid dampener next and see how long the vac pump lasts this time
@michaelbrock62224 ай бұрын
are these good splitters
@rsr57744 ай бұрын
правый- 150-ый
@writerjmd4 ай бұрын
I thought this was supposed to be done at TDC for #1 piston
@writerjmd4 ай бұрын
The 99 Subaru 2.2 IS INTERFERENCE.
@dyIanVIIАй бұрын
The dead giveaway as far as I know is solid lifters, if it has solid lifters it IS interference.
@arkadiusznamys71935 ай бұрын
Wonder what hapens when power is cut and heater is not properly cool down does it melt the plastic housing?
@KenjiPhoTwenty5 ай бұрын
The new 2020 diffs are r167 compared to the older r160. Are those compatible to use on the older wrx chasis? I was unable to find any info as if they are backwards compatible.
@steinbauge45915 ай бұрын
I have a 220 to 12 V converter for wall outlet. The heater I intend to buy needs 15 A, wouldn't this do if the converter provides this?
@renatleongardus4673 ай бұрын
No no no, I bought 15 A and it’s working to just warm up the diesel heater but when it’s start to heat up it’s stop working and gives me error codes. Hook it up to my car battery, which is 76A and works fantastic
@gsxr4195 ай бұрын
I wired a heavy duty 12v accessory plug to a jump pack but just bought one of these. I’m going it wire a female accessory plug to it so anything I need a 12 volt supply to I can use.
@williamweesner11915 ай бұрын
great video, thanks for sharing. been thinking about doing the same thing just for my own personal knowledge..
@joshuawick53825 ай бұрын
I have a 1990 Honda Accord Sedan that has a seat belt just like this. The passenger side almost always stays stuck forward. Every once in awhile, it will move back. What I did was unplug the fuse that says passive motor and that kept it in its back position. I’m not sure what’s really wrong with it. I haven’t looked at it yet.
@soufianDEMOS5 ай бұрын
I need to install one for my AFR gauge but my intake manifold has already an O2 sensor for the ECM. Shall I replace it with the one for the AFR ? Or shall I drill an extra hole ?? Thanks
@soufianDEMOS5 ай бұрын
I thought it should be mounted at a specific angle (10 degree) ?
@skinnymikesgarage36985 ай бұрын
Getting ready to change the pump on my 93 great video.
@justinhardenbrook70765 ай бұрын
What step did you stop on with the step bit? Like how wide does the bung hole need to be?
@velocross16 ай бұрын
I need this in my french alps !
@JeffTurner156786 ай бұрын
I have a regulated power supply similar to one you have think same one, but will hook to a backup power source or UPS setup to ensure unit cools down if power fails while running. Location unit will be hooked up has frequent power outages in the cold months. Want to ensure it has proper cool down in case of power outage, I will run unit in my wood shop only when I am present so can be around to shut unit down. Perhaps, I can figure way with Arduino setup to auto power unit down in power outage with some type of line power sensor tied into an Arduino unit. Maybe some type of gated backup power battery supplied, will figure out when I get unit installed in coming week or two. Read somewhere about making simple UPS with NAND ICs and a some relays, think I could easily add in a built in timer via simple Arduino type setup to this unit if I make it myself.
@redauwg9116 ай бұрын
Why not just keep a trickle charger on your battery? The way you have , It if the power goes out your diesel heater will melt its electronics when the fan stops. Could possibly even catch on fire..🔥🔥🔥
@fionnan2811happy6 ай бұрын
Nice video. I am going to do the same job on my Subaru Impreza wrx sti but with the engine in the vehicle. Also I won't be using any kind of lubrication as I have had better success getting the shaving blown out and not sticking to the internals. If it wasn't aluminium then it would be better to use grease. Thanks for your video
@curtwuollet29126 ай бұрын
There's simply too much stuff in waste oil that won't burn. I don't see mixes as fixing that.
@Yukonjackman16 ай бұрын
Could you also have a backup battery hooked up in-case a power outage
@botoyigoy6 ай бұрын
How did you connect that 12v cigarette plug coz it did not come with the heater??
@seemaab6 ай бұрын
Amazing video on how to change a flange. Could someone tell me what Propshaft I would need that would fit a legacy spec B gearbox and a R160 diff on a GC8 my99 turbo 2.0?
@seemaab6 ай бұрын
What about the oil that leaks out when you open the flange or cover? How does this get topped up?
@basstard46396 ай бұрын
The engineers that put those Allen bolts in there 😳
@silverluvr1026 ай бұрын
this is exactly what i needed to see and its amazingly well produced. thank you
@carlos_sacalul7 ай бұрын
Thanks for sharing,im wondering if is working with mix 50/50 with hydraulic food oil(food industry) and i think is vegetable. It is used but dont look black like engine burned oil ,lokks like new engine oil. I dont know what to do...
@brandonbeal49617 ай бұрын
I have this same log splitter I picked up and the pump was apart. do you have any info on how the pump goes together I cant find any info on it
@ImpreziveGarage7 ай бұрын
Sorry, no I didn't have to take the pump apart, if I end up needing to I'll make another video on it, there doesn't seem to be much documentation on this splitter.
@brandonbeal49617 ай бұрын
I have been running into the same issue... I had to tear everything down cause who every had it there was sludge in it from being in water when you have a moment can you some pics of the pump assembed this might give a idea of what way the top and bottom plate goes due to the seals and cavitys for the fluid. I hope this make sence @@ImpreziveGarage
@schmatzek17 ай бұрын
Man nimmt doch keine neue geprüfte Pumpe auseinander nur um reinzugucken.
@seadkarajic56737 ай бұрын
Great video glad i ran into this now i know what to buy ps those mounting aluminum brackets awesome i was gonna use wood lol thx
@WisconsinWanderer7 ай бұрын
I can’t thank you enough this really helped set up basically the same equipment awesome 😊
@rashellyohn51287 ай бұрын
Hello and thanks for the vid. I have a 92 Chevy Silverado. I am having a hard time replacing the starter. Its the first time doing it on a manual. On the passenger side of the truck right under the starter is this tube that comes out of this handle like looking part of the transmission. Its not a sensor or the clutch line. But it is right in the way of the starter and no one ive talked to so far knows what it is. I need to remove it so I can replace the starter. Its a metal that comes right out of the transmission right under the starter and flywheel housing. Any help would be appreciated.
@ImpreziveGarage7 ай бұрын
Is it about a 1/2 inch diameter metal rod, one end should be bolted to the bottom of the transmission bell housing and the other end should bolted to the engine block, its basically a stabilizer bracket to help tie the engine and transmission together and add rigidity, once you unbolt it and move it out of the way you can get the starer out.
Пікірлер
I see starter fluid will not work if injection pump is not good
19:25 You read 118mm when it is 108mm. You made a similar misreading at the rear.
Very cool. Thank you! Think I will do the same. Now I just have to make sure as soon as we lose power I have some way to power it to atleast let it cool down so it doesn't melt everything.
Do you have anything on Subaru Forester SF rear camber adjustment?
Geat information. Very detailed. Thank you!
what do you do if you have a electric injection pump and you put the manual injection pump. Do you have to do any upgrades to the 4160e transmission to work?
nice job of explaining how an injection pump works, thank you very helpful.
Mine is a 6.2 but it looks pretty much like yours. Mine sounds just like yours after bleeding the system. but it might just need a injection pump, but it rans good for 1000s of miles then does the air in the system again, I bleed it then it goes for another 1000 or so miles.
Who FARTED LOL?
Do you know if the axels for the female R160 and the "R150 Oddball" have the same number of splines on the wheel hub side? I've got a 2005 Legacy with the oddball diff that had some sort of spectacular failure that cracked the casing in two places and I'm having a real hard time finding a replacement. There seem to be tons of the smooth cover version available and I may have to do a swap of out necessity. I'm just curious if I'm going to have to swap the wheel hubs as well.
Great video, thank you!
Did you adjust your airflow / fuel rate? I imagine you'd have to reduce the fuel rate and increase the air-rate significantly to run successfully on WMO?
If you blur your vision, the marks on the table in the bottom left look like a dog
Super found a video telling me I can install a sway bar in my Impreza, thanks 😁
Hello. Great video. I had a mechanic replace timing kit on 1995 Impreza ej18, 165,000 miles. Then, 6 months, 2,000 miles later, i have 76psi compression in cylinders 2 and 4 (drivers side head). It starts fine and will drive but is a slug. No overheating or oil/coolant leaking. Good spark plugs/coil. Just half the compression it should have on that one head. Could bad timing cause both of those cylinders (2/4) not to have compression? How could I do a cursory check on the timing marks, in my driveway? Thanks!
Could I plug this power supply into my solar generator?
Great video! My pump is leaking from the o-ring between the head and the body, and this video let me know what needs to come out before I can separate the head from the body. Thanks!
Wat is z bung hole?
It's not the injector pumps that suck on these GM diesel trucks. They're actually fine from what I've heard. It's the weak lift pumps they furnished these trucks with that cause the injector pumps to fail. Detroit Diesel designed a really good power plant to begin with and then GM cheaped out and furnished them with under-dimensioned components all around until they were basically transformed into something quite unreliable. For one thing, the lift pumps on these don't move enough fuel to supply the injector pumps with enough to run properly. So the IPs break down way ahead of time due to that. Getting a proper LP rated for these types of engines is one of the first and most important upgrades people tend to perform on their 6.2/6.5s. I compiled a sort of upgrade list that might be useful. I'm not an expert or anything but I've been researching the 6.5 turbo diesel a lot lately. Maybe this could help you or someone, I hope! What I've learned so far is that these seem to be the most critical components that need replacement/upgrading to make these engines really reliable: 1. Pump Mounted Driver (PMD) relocation (on 94 and newer, with electronic engine control) 2. Lift pump (People say the marine pumps are the way to go?) 3. Harmonic balancer (Fluidampr) 4. Main belt pulley (Leroy Diesel) 5. Fuel filter (I think you did that one already. Otherwise FASS makes good stuff. I think they also do a kit with a proper LP included) 6. Cooling. Duramax radiator fan, stronger water pump, etc 7. Some people say to get rid of the vacuum pump altogether because they apparently suck and will fail and cause issues along the drive belt. 8. Oil cooling hoses, because factory ones apparently break down easily. Other things to do that might not be as critical but makes them run better/more reliable would be things like this: 1. Intake/Exhaust upgrades 2. Headbolts ---> head studs (Quadstar Tuning ARP) 3. Injection pre-cup upgrade 4. Forged crankshaft, like Detroit intended (instead of the much weaker cast metal shafts that GM put in them) At Leroy Diesel's home page they say something similar to what I've compiled here. They're the experts, not me, but I thought I'd share what I've gathered from a bunch of people here on YT. leroydiesel.com/
I have a 96 6.5 your list is really good I'm doing a lot of these upgrades now. I just replaced the balancer and vac pump. I'll see how lo g they last. I'll get a fluid dampener next and see how long the vac pump lasts this time
are these good splitters
правый- 150-ый
I thought this was supposed to be done at TDC for #1 piston
The 99 Subaru 2.2 IS INTERFERENCE.
The dead giveaway as far as I know is solid lifters, if it has solid lifters it IS interference.
Wonder what hapens when power is cut and heater is not properly cool down does it melt the plastic housing?
The new 2020 diffs are r167 compared to the older r160. Are those compatible to use on the older wrx chasis? I was unable to find any info as if they are backwards compatible.
I have a 220 to 12 V converter for wall outlet. The heater I intend to buy needs 15 A, wouldn't this do if the converter provides this?
No no no, I bought 15 A and it’s working to just warm up the diesel heater but when it’s start to heat up it’s stop working and gives me error codes. Hook it up to my car battery, which is 76A and works fantastic
I wired a heavy duty 12v accessory plug to a jump pack but just bought one of these. I’m going it wire a female accessory plug to it so anything I need a 12 volt supply to I can use.
great video, thanks for sharing. been thinking about doing the same thing just for my own personal knowledge..
I have a 1990 Honda Accord Sedan that has a seat belt just like this. The passenger side almost always stays stuck forward. Every once in awhile, it will move back. What I did was unplug the fuse that says passive motor and that kept it in its back position. I’m not sure what’s really wrong with it. I haven’t looked at it yet.
I need to install one for my AFR gauge but my intake manifold has already an O2 sensor for the ECM. Shall I replace it with the one for the AFR ? Or shall I drill an extra hole ?? Thanks
I thought it should be mounted at a specific angle (10 degree) ?
Getting ready to change the pump on my 93 great video.
What step did you stop on with the step bit? Like how wide does the bung hole need to be?
I need this in my french alps !
I have a regulated power supply similar to one you have think same one, but will hook to a backup power source or UPS setup to ensure unit cools down if power fails while running. Location unit will be hooked up has frequent power outages in the cold months. Want to ensure it has proper cool down in case of power outage, I will run unit in my wood shop only when I am present so can be around to shut unit down. Perhaps, I can figure way with Arduino setup to auto power unit down in power outage with some type of line power sensor tied into an Arduino unit. Maybe some type of gated backup power battery supplied, will figure out when I get unit installed in coming week or two. Read somewhere about making simple UPS with NAND ICs and a some relays, think I could easily add in a built in timer via simple Arduino type setup to this unit if I make it myself.
Why not just keep a trickle charger on your battery? The way you have , It if the power goes out your diesel heater will melt its electronics when the fan stops. Could possibly even catch on fire..🔥🔥🔥
Nice video. I am going to do the same job on my Subaru Impreza wrx sti but with the engine in the vehicle. Also I won't be using any kind of lubrication as I have had better success getting the shaving blown out and not sticking to the internals. If it wasn't aluminium then it would be better to use grease. Thanks for your video
There's simply too much stuff in waste oil that won't burn. I don't see mixes as fixing that.
Could you also have a backup battery hooked up in-case a power outage
How did you connect that 12v cigarette plug coz it did not come with the heater??
Amazing video on how to change a flange. Could someone tell me what Propshaft I would need that would fit a legacy spec B gearbox and a R160 diff on a GC8 my99 turbo 2.0?
What about the oil that leaks out when you open the flange or cover? How does this get topped up?
The engineers that put those Allen bolts in there 😳
this is exactly what i needed to see and its amazingly well produced. thank you
Thanks for sharing,im wondering if is working with mix 50/50 with hydraulic food oil(food industry) and i think is vegetable. It is used but dont look black like engine burned oil ,lokks like new engine oil. I dont know what to do...
I have this same log splitter I picked up and the pump was apart. do you have any info on how the pump goes together I cant find any info on it
Sorry, no I didn't have to take the pump apart, if I end up needing to I'll make another video on it, there doesn't seem to be much documentation on this splitter.
I have been running into the same issue... I had to tear everything down cause who every had it there was sludge in it from being in water when you have a moment can you some pics of the pump assembed this might give a idea of what way the top and bottom plate goes due to the seals and cavitys for the fluid. I hope this make sence @@ImpreziveGarage
Man nimmt doch keine neue geprüfte Pumpe auseinander nur um reinzugucken.
Great video glad i ran into this now i know what to buy ps those mounting aluminum brackets awesome i was gonna use wood lol thx
I can’t thank you enough this really helped set up basically the same equipment awesome 😊
Hello and thanks for the vid. I have a 92 Chevy Silverado. I am having a hard time replacing the starter. Its the first time doing it on a manual. On the passenger side of the truck right under the starter is this tube that comes out of this handle like looking part of the transmission. Its not a sensor or the clutch line. But it is right in the way of the starter and no one ive talked to so far knows what it is. I need to remove it so I can replace the starter. Its a metal that comes right out of the transmission right under the starter and flywheel housing. Any help would be appreciated.
Is it about a 1/2 inch diameter metal rod, one end should be bolted to the bottom of the transmission bell housing and the other end should bolted to the engine block, its basically a stabilizer bracket to help tie the engine and transmission together and add rigidity, once you unbolt it and move it out of the way you can get the starer out.