very good - this also opens up the oportunity for customised junction that don't follow the "set track" pieces, cross-overs with odd angles etc.
@johnpadams80792 ай бұрын
I design and build products for a living. I really like your presentation and think your build quality is surprisingly good ! However, my time is worth more than $15 per hour and this took you way more than 1 hr. If you are retired and have no money to buy multiple turn outs, your video is really helping them. Your music is very appropriate by the way. Not distracting or irritating. I think you are a talented guy. That’s why I have subscribed. 😊
@RobSlenderman772 ай бұрын
So how in the world did you get those new A-Line female worm couplings onto the metal shaft after removing the originals? I am rebuilding an early 80's Athearn BB SD9 and I could not slip the new worm couplings onto the metal shaft without redrilling the hole. They were way too tight. Then I had to use epoxy to bond them to the metal shaft. Pain in the A$$!
@norliasmith4 ай бұрын
You can also use the BB/RTR motor already in the model, and get one of the Athearn RTR clip on motherboards with the 21 pin socket, and get a 21 pin decoder and speakers if you got a sound decoder. The BB and RTR motors are pretty much on par with the Genesis motors as long as you ensure to grease up everything properly.
@andre1dre5 ай бұрын
I need some help. I will be using the exact Athern retro motor, as shown in your video. Could you please share what each soldering point on the PCB goes to?
@JBG19685 ай бұрын
How do you just press the new ones on exactly ?
@stevenrobertson36356 ай бұрын
Hope you come back to KZread with some new videos
@BriansModelTrains6 ай бұрын
Smart video - thanks for sharing
@Bob_TheDude6 ай бұрын
We need to see more of these videos on this channel
@garybuddell61036 ай бұрын
I subscribed as soon as you brought out the meat cleaver.
@tuftyterror9837 ай бұрын
Very I informative! I’m not currently building a layout but I would love to jus tint enough space, I was just wondering how you would make your own turnout
@garyforestier11188 ай бұрын
I don't understand how the upper point hinges
@tonyromano62209 ай бұрын
14:12 wow I love the 90degree point to throw bar. Back when I used tiny screws and tapped the throw bar, with tiny flat brass.
@tonyromano62209 ай бұрын
Very clever method.
@johnmacdonald62209 ай бұрын
With the constant price increases on new sound or even dcc locomotives there may be a rush to buy the Athearn Genesis Motors to install on viewers fleet of older locomotives instead of purchasing the high $300(Ouch) or now over $400(Ouch Ouch) Canadian priced locomotives from hobby stores. I have a number of Athearn Blue Box locomotives and Dcc ready Kato's to retro fit. Thanks for making the video.
@animalyze712010 ай бұрын
Great video, I like how you shut down the Snobs who always make those comments like Why didn't you buy this? Or do it this way? Sadly the Model train hobby has suffered what the Model hobby has dealt with and vice versa. Rivet counters are the worst and worse yet are the Ultra rich snobs who think the more you spend on a loco the better it is and that's just wrong lol. I have Athearn Blue box loco's that will out pull anything made today and that's a fact Jack! Wasn't even the motor either, the newer nickle silver nonsense wheels on loco's loose a ton of tractive effort over the older sintered wheel sets and that alone wins my claim. Even equally measured the new stuff is more geared for noise lovers over actual operation and $400 for a loco that pulls less for just some noises and a few easily added details doesn't justify the costs. DCC has great playability for multiple users at once but that's the only benefit of DCC, Sound just doesn't count because every system out there sounds just as phony as the last and there is no amount of money that help it out, it's just true. I have old Tyco's that will out pull modern noise making junk. Although to be honest that particular Tyco makes more noise than a 747 lol. Nickle silver means spin spin spin, Sintered metal means pull pull pull and are as easy to keep clean as the slippery nickle stuff. Nickle Silver on rolling stock is the best no lies, especially lighted cars.
@Syclone00447 ай бұрын
I think the moment you get your first Genesis loco in your hands, you’ll change your opinion in a heartbeat! It’s not “just a few easily added details”, that’s laughable and absurd. The entire paint job alone is worth the price! It’s immaculate, flawless, and has all the tiniest printing and the 600V stickers etc. Heck just the NUMBER BOARDS alone are worth it. A blue box loco looks terrible with no number boards and I’ve never seen a way to get them besides attempting to apply each digit as a decal, good luck getting all 8 straight aligned! EDIT: front and back thats 16! The fine handrails blow the doors off blue box clunky paperclip-diameter wires. The cab INTERIOR is a glorious sight compared to a blue box stupid metal light bulb tower. You and I both know you’ll never super detail a blue box to even the standard of a Genesis right out of the box, they must have 100 parts altogether.
@Syclone00447 ай бұрын
I wrote more but the other half keeps getting deleted and I tried 6 times and can’t find what word is triggering the system
@Denniss742026 күн бұрын
No blue box locomotive is on par with any of the new Athearn RTR, Roundhouse or Genesis stuff. The only decent blue box engines I have are the ones I painted, super detailed and added Kato motors. One thing about those "Ultra rich snobs".....at least they are selling off their Athearn RTR locos for better stuff - so now you can afford to replace your Tyco engines with pre-owned Athearn. PS: Don't worry about how much another spends on a model train - if the demand wasn't there = those expensive locos wouldn't be made.
@bowlerguy21911 ай бұрын
RailPro is the easiest way to run dpi for model trains.
@NewTestamentDoc11 ай бұрын
watched a third time.. this video is just that good...
@nedmerrill570511 ай бұрын
Real model railroaders build their own turnouts. I build my own in N scale. i had trouble with some bulk PC board in that the copper cladding was too weak. I will try your supplier if he's still available. Thanks.
@jamesmmol Жыл бұрын
Genesis motor upgrades running backwards? I am in the process of converting my Blue Box Athearn F7s to the Genesis ATHG63842 motor. I put it in as others have with the black plastic part of the motor to the front, ran wires from the trucks with the right side being the positive and left the negative (former frame power). I checked and that is how it was connected with the old motors. Got it back together, put it on the track and it ran the opposite direction of all the original motored F7s. For comparison, I put a HO High performance motor ATH 84086 on a frame and the flywheels ran opposite of the Genesis motor. Am I missing something?
@animalyze712010 ай бұрын
Just swap the trucks around. Athearn BB's are simple, if the front is to your left while looking at it, then the trucks power bars should be tab side facing you the bended back of the power tab end away from you. You can do it either way but then you'll have confusing operational errors when you swap engines.
@jamesmmol10 ай бұрын
@@animalyze7120 Thanks for the tip. Maybe better to have the wiring standard - red top, black bottom, than the trucks.
@larryjanson4011 Жыл бұрын
what dcc board did you use?
@jeffycramy3463 Жыл бұрын
Where did you say you got the print out of the turnouts? I really want to try this. Thanks
@frankmarkovcijr5459 Жыл бұрын
Frankly I wish in HO trains longer than most to you were alive. We got along just fine with nice simple locomotive no sound effects no no DCCC no anyting. I have okay locomotives with sound effects and all that crap PS2 for control and I don't use none of it. Just don't see no use for it. When you got somebody locomotive sound effects running on the layout and gets to be a bunch of cacophonous noise.
@railfink Жыл бұрын
I wouldn't say people got along fine back in the "simple days" before DCC... I remember LOTS of people fine-tuning, rebuilding, repowering, re-gearing, etc. to hopefully get different (and even the same brand and model) locomotives to run well together. Amongst other things...
@stevelittle1885 Жыл бұрын
That Red CP Rail diesel sounds incredible. The motor sounds so cool winding up. Turbocharged? How did you get it to sound like that?
@kb02andthewhistlestoprailr3 Жыл бұрын
Stock sound profile on the Digitraxx SDH166 sound decoder. I’ve since upgraded the loco to RailPro and the sound is even better.
@amandahugankiss4110 Жыл бұрын
This builds my confidence. Thank you!
@stevejones3838 Жыл бұрын
Is the PC board. .060? I believe that's 60 thousands
@bradleyogden5688 Жыл бұрын
Has anyone added a G2 motor to a Rail Power frame? I'm planning on using a B40-8 frame and Athearn Genesis motor and B + B trucks. Can I just add the retrofit kit to the frame? Or does it need to be isolated from the frame?
@blackknight2578 Жыл бұрын
Exactly, my old locomotives have memories and some were gifts. I like the challenge of upgrading....
@nextxguy19642 жыл бұрын
the roller barrens turning add great detail to that locomotive. do you know of kits that let you add that detail to older locomotives?
@joegold7542 жыл бұрын
what were the replacement lights you used
@kb02andthewhistlestoprailr32 жыл бұрын
Simple LEDs with resistors.
@12b_engineer2 жыл бұрын
this might be a dumb question but I'm new to this. do you intend on putting sleepers across the whole of the turn out? why or why not? thanks
@kb02andthewhistlestoprailr32 жыл бұрын
Yes. I slide little balsa sleepers right under the rails. A touch of white glue on the bottom of the sleepers is all it takes.
@crsrdash-840b52 жыл бұрын
Great video. Your son is so funny. What curve radius is your layout?
@crsrdash-840b52 жыл бұрын
So does that make the engine a GP38-2M? hehehehe
@leonardosouza62902 жыл бұрын
Nice confihguration. Here in Brazil, the railways uses distribuited power, we call"leader" and "remote".
@josephpostma17872 жыл бұрын
How did you do the rock face at 10:33? Did you press a big sheet of crumpled foil into wet plaster on the mountain? It does not look like there are a bunch of the molded rocks that seemed together like you showed earlier.
@kb02andthewhistlestoprailr32 жыл бұрын
Yeah, it was a first attempt from years ago. I’ve still got some work to do to blend it in.
@josephburroughs83122 жыл бұрын
Have you ever reengined an Athearn F Unit??? Would it be basically the same???
@kb02andthewhistlestoprailr32 жыл бұрын
Never worked on an Athearn F, but if the frame is the same, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Take some measurements and see.
@Elfnetdesigns2 жыл бұрын
Will it fit? ANYTHING will fit if you know how to engineer 101
@deadcarnahans19322 жыл бұрын
I put that same motor in my childhood Atlas SD-35 along with Lok Sound decoder. Screw holes in bottom of motor were identical to old Atlas motor.
@genewilson46622 жыл бұрын
What neat this week
@laurensiemens14362 жыл бұрын
Hi I always wanted to learn this step of trains but always thought it was above my reach but you explained it well thanks. Have you ever attempted "Y" turn outs?
@tonyromano62209 ай бұрын
Any angles can be done, once one gets the method. It takes a few to make one right.
@sunil-eagle2 жыл бұрын
What is the track material used,I am new to the hobby
@davidstevens52132 жыл бұрын
I'm for sure going to use these economical tricks
@randallates54352 жыл бұрын
That was very informative. Thanks for the sharing the tune up info!
@mikedurhan99412 жыл бұрын
Very interesting. Thank you, Mr. KB02.
@jmaclaren41472 жыл бұрын
Skewed armature is ae nice design.
@Trainsbigandsmall2 жыл бұрын
Hello will the ATHG63839 motor also fit the athearn blue box locomotives like the F45 or FP45?
@larryjanson4011 Жыл бұрын
its in mine. with just a tad adjustment to the old frame. redoing a number of sd40, sd45, sdp45, sdt45, to start with. but even on just dc i had no problem getting up to 10 units to all pull together. (used to belong to a large layout club) just test as to who runs fastest and who runs slowest. line then up fastest in front slowest in the rear. worked great for a 250 car (weighted ) train. (did not need all 10 units).
Пікірлер
How do you make the adapter board work with leds?
very good - this also opens up the oportunity for customised junction that don't follow the "set track" pieces, cross-overs with odd angles etc.
I design and build products for a living. I really like your presentation and think your build quality is surprisingly good ! However, my time is worth more than $15 per hour and this took you way more than 1 hr. If you are retired and have no money to buy multiple turn outs, your video is really helping them. Your music is very appropriate by the way. Not distracting or irritating. I think you are a talented guy. That’s why I have subscribed. 😊
So how in the world did you get those new A-Line female worm couplings onto the metal shaft after removing the originals? I am rebuilding an early 80's Athearn BB SD9 and I could not slip the new worm couplings onto the metal shaft without redrilling the hole. They were way too tight. Then I had to use epoxy to bond them to the metal shaft. Pain in the A$$!
You can also use the BB/RTR motor already in the model, and get one of the Athearn RTR clip on motherboards with the 21 pin socket, and get a 21 pin decoder and speakers if you got a sound decoder. The BB and RTR motors are pretty much on par with the Genesis motors as long as you ensure to grease up everything properly.
I need some help. I will be using the exact Athern retro motor, as shown in your video. Could you please share what each soldering point on the PCB goes to?
How do you just press the new ones on exactly ?
Hope you come back to KZread with some new videos
Smart video - thanks for sharing
We need to see more of these videos on this channel
I subscribed as soon as you brought out the meat cleaver.
Very I informative! I’m not currently building a layout but I would love to jus tint enough space, I was just wondering how you would make your own turnout
I don't understand how the upper point hinges
14:12 wow I love the 90degree point to throw bar. Back when I used tiny screws and tapped the throw bar, with tiny flat brass.
Very clever method.
With the constant price increases on new sound or even dcc locomotives there may be a rush to buy the Athearn Genesis Motors to install on viewers fleet of older locomotives instead of purchasing the high $300(Ouch) or now over $400(Ouch Ouch) Canadian priced locomotives from hobby stores. I have a number of Athearn Blue Box locomotives and Dcc ready Kato's to retro fit. Thanks for making the video.
Great video, I like how you shut down the Snobs who always make those comments like Why didn't you buy this? Or do it this way? Sadly the Model train hobby has suffered what the Model hobby has dealt with and vice versa. Rivet counters are the worst and worse yet are the Ultra rich snobs who think the more you spend on a loco the better it is and that's just wrong lol. I have Athearn Blue box loco's that will out pull anything made today and that's a fact Jack! Wasn't even the motor either, the newer nickle silver nonsense wheels on loco's loose a ton of tractive effort over the older sintered wheel sets and that alone wins my claim. Even equally measured the new stuff is more geared for noise lovers over actual operation and $400 for a loco that pulls less for just some noises and a few easily added details doesn't justify the costs. DCC has great playability for multiple users at once but that's the only benefit of DCC, Sound just doesn't count because every system out there sounds just as phony as the last and there is no amount of money that help it out, it's just true. I have old Tyco's that will out pull modern noise making junk. Although to be honest that particular Tyco makes more noise than a 747 lol. Nickle silver means spin spin spin, Sintered metal means pull pull pull and are as easy to keep clean as the slippery nickle stuff. Nickle Silver on rolling stock is the best no lies, especially lighted cars.
I think the moment you get your first Genesis loco in your hands, you’ll change your opinion in a heartbeat! It’s not “just a few easily added details”, that’s laughable and absurd. The entire paint job alone is worth the price! It’s immaculate, flawless, and has all the tiniest printing and the 600V stickers etc. Heck just the NUMBER BOARDS alone are worth it. A blue box loco looks terrible with no number boards and I’ve never seen a way to get them besides attempting to apply each digit as a decal, good luck getting all 8 straight aligned! EDIT: front and back thats 16! The fine handrails blow the doors off blue box clunky paperclip-diameter wires. The cab INTERIOR is a glorious sight compared to a blue box stupid metal light bulb tower. You and I both know you’ll never super detail a blue box to even the standard of a Genesis right out of the box, they must have 100 parts altogether.
I wrote more but the other half keeps getting deleted and I tried 6 times and can’t find what word is triggering the system
No blue box locomotive is on par with any of the new Athearn RTR, Roundhouse or Genesis stuff. The only decent blue box engines I have are the ones I painted, super detailed and added Kato motors. One thing about those "Ultra rich snobs".....at least they are selling off their Athearn RTR locos for better stuff - so now you can afford to replace your Tyco engines with pre-owned Athearn. PS: Don't worry about how much another spends on a model train - if the demand wasn't there = those expensive locos wouldn't be made.
RailPro is the easiest way to run dpi for model trains.
watched a third time.. this video is just that good...
Real model railroaders build their own turnouts. I build my own in N scale. i had trouble with some bulk PC board in that the copper cladding was too weak. I will try your supplier if he's still available. Thanks.
Genesis motor upgrades running backwards? I am in the process of converting my Blue Box Athearn F7s to the Genesis ATHG63842 motor. I put it in as others have with the black plastic part of the motor to the front, ran wires from the trucks with the right side being the positive and left the negative (former frame power). I checked and that is how it was connected with the old motors. Got it back together, put it on the track and it ran the opposite direction of all the original motored F7s. For comparison, I put a HO High performance motor ATH 84086 on a frame and the flywheels ran opposite of the Genesis motor. Am I missing something?
Just swap the trucks around. Athearn BB's are simple, if the front is to your left while looking at it, then the trucks power bars should be tab side facing you the bended back of the power tab end away from you. You can do it either way but then you'll have confusing operational errors when you swap engines.
@@animalyze7120 Thanks for the tip. Maybe better to have the wiring standard - red top, black bottom, than the trucks.
what dcc board did you use?
Where did you say you got the print out of the turnouts? I really want to try this. Thanks
Frankly I wish in HO trains longer than most to you were alive. We got along just fine with nice simple locomotive no sound effects no no DCCC no anyting. I have okay locomotives with sound effects and all that crap PS2 for control and I don't use none of it. Just don't see no use for it. When you got somebody locomotive sound effects running on the layout and gets to be a bunch of cacophonous noise.
I wouldn't say people got along fine back in the "simple days" before DCC... I remember LOTS of people fine-tuning, rebuilding, repowering, re-gearing, etc. to hopefully get different (and even the same brand and model) locomotives to run well together. Amongst other things...
That Red CP Rail diesel sounds incredible. The motor sounds so cool winding up. Turbocharged? How did you get it to sound like that?
Stock sound profile on the Digitraxx SDH166 sound decoder. I’ve since upgraded the loco to RailPro and the sound is even better.
This builds my confidence. Thank you!
Is the PC board. .060? I believe that's 60 thousands
Has anyone added a G2 motor to a Rail Power frame? I'm planning on using a B40-8 frame and Athearn Genesis motor and B + B trucks. Can I just add the retrofit kit to the frame? Or does it need to be isolated from the frame?
Exactly, my old locomotives have memories and some were gifts. I like the challenge of upgrading....
the roller barrens turning add great detail to that locomotive. do you know of kits that let you add that detail to older locomotives?
what were the replacement lights you used
Simple LEDs with resistors.
this might be a dumb question but I'm new to this. do you intend on putting sleepers across the whole of the turn out? why or why not? thanks
Yes. I slide little balsa sleepers right under the rails. A touch of white glue on the bottom of the sleepers is all it takes.
Great video. Your son is so funny. What curve radius is your layout?
So does that make the engine a GP38-2M? hehehehe
Nice confihguration. Here in Brazil, the railways uses distribuited power, we call"leader" and "remote".
How did you do the rock face at 10:33? Did you press a big sheet of crumpled foil into wet plaster on the mountain? It does not look like there are a bunch of the molded rocks that seemed together like you showed earlier.
Yeah, it was a first attempt from years ago. I’ve still got some work to do to blend it in.
Have you ever reengined an Athearn F Unit??? Would it be basically the same???
Never worked on an Athearn F, but if the frame is the same, I don’t see why it wouldn’t work. Take some measurements and see.
Will it fit? ANYTHING will fit if you know how to engineer 101
I put that same motor in my childhood Atlas SD-35 along with Lok Sound decoder. Screw holes in bottom of motor were identical to old Atlas motor.
What neat this week
Hi I always wanted to learn this step of trains but always thought it was above my reach but you explained it well thanks. Have you ever attempted "Y" turn outs?
Any angles can be done, once one gets the method. It takes a few to make one right.
What is the track material used,I am new to the hobby
I'm for sure going to use these economical tricks
That was very informative. Thanks for the sharing the tune up info!
Very interesting. Thank you, Mr. KB02.
Skewed armature is ae nice design.
Hello will the ATHG63839 motor also fit the athearn blue box locomotives like the F45 or FP45?
its in mine. with just a tad adjustment to the old frame. redoing a number of sd40, sd45, sdp45, sdt45, to start with. but even on just dc i had no problem getting up to 10 units to all pull together. (used to belong to a large layout club) just test as to who runs fastest and who runs slowest. line then up fastest in front slowest in the rear. worked great for a 250 car (weighted ) train. (did not need all 10 units).
Great video. Just subbed your channel.
where do you solder the wires to?
Lol lol . . . And gently cut . . . Lol lol