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Maybe there were interminent ground failures? I was told to install extra ground for safety if using usb mode. I was said that it would kill the pi if ground was lost.
Will that cable also work with the Ares 2 ?
How is it holding up for you? Does it hold the antenna firmly, or is it a sloppy fit?
Aftermarket universal fits nothing.
I really hope this is the fix for mine. My door suctions closed super hard so I'm wondering if there is a pressure issue going on. Same thing as you though, chuck of ice up top in the freezer, coils not overly frosted, I did change the defrost controller out. top vent seems to blow cold air into fridge but when its closed It doesn't get colder than 52 degrees.
Same happened to mine. Barely use it. Keep it cleaned and free of anything wrapped around rollers. Definitely a design flaw.
I need some help, I've replaced my alternator and both batteries. My volts are between 13.5 to 14 and it passes the alternator check at O'Riley's. However, I still have a battery light on. I checked the volts on the plug by unplugging it from the alternator while the truck was running. The orange (ish) colored wire shows about 1.2 and the other wire (green I think) about 12 to 12.5. Any ideas on if that is what is causing my battery light to stay on? 2004, F250 PSD 6.0
Who makes a better charger for NiMh Batteries for refurbishing? SkyRC or Hitech??
Looks like it hasn't had the cotter key out
This is pretty familiar, I've fixed a bunch of motors like this. They usually have a stupid cardboard bushing on one side which goes crap quickly. Every bushing in these is designed to be self-adjusting to accept angular error. Whatever you do, don't use oil, even way oil. It will only last a month. I trash-picked a huge blower from a downdraft kitchen range and the thing got stuck quickly, I tried using oil more than once, nope. The next time I filled everything with axle grease and it has worked perfectly ever since, it has been working for several years now in lab fume extraction duty.
I agree with the self aligning bushings to compensate for misalignment. Its looks like the end caps are low precision stamped steel. I will try some grease if it locks up again. I'm not sure what they used from factory, I didn't see any grease residue. for now I'm sitting with cool air on my back. We'll see how how long it last. My 0.9 degree motors for my Z axis came in.
@@fintechrepairshop Nice, can't wait to see it. We are building a filament width sensor prototype tonight 😁
@@jessicav2031 Sounds pretty cool!!!
Well, I just ordered my fan, it overheated during inspection, smoke everywhere, lol, I was having AC issues, but never overheated till today, and I turned the entire ventilation system off while getting inspected, hopefully something I can tackle 🤞🏼 thanks for the video.
thanks
Finally I understood the behaviour. I can do it also with an Arduino pin PWM piloted. Thanks a lot!
thanks
21mm is so not right for our large rigs. Hellwig has a 1.5" I am thinking about.
Excuse me Sr , do you have an email , I would like to know how did you config the sensor in mach, and how did you calibrate it ,
I have a cnc machine with a controller richauto and I want to know if you can install the same setting u have there (touch screen, Xbox controller, solidstate relay to control coolant and a vacuum, and probe) It's possible for you to travel to New windsor NY
I'm in CA, what kind of machine is it?
When you start it up, you have to dial in the probe with the volume buttons until the green LED lights up permanently. That's why it resets after every startup. Use the LED, not the tone.
I've been a cabling contractor for 20 years. This thing was too frustrating to keep.
Dodge industrial is only the one made in America that make bearings and mounts. Dodge is the best. Timken no longer make in America.. Make America great again.
What !? It seams to be fast at printing absolutely nothing...
did you read the description? I'm designing and machining a new 100mm^3 high flow nozzle.
Whoa crazy stuff!
It's already going faster.
So I'm in the bag of worms with this one here ok first KAMP is amazing for Klipper it also has ups and downs, biggest one for me is and it's mixed is the bed prob before every print where the print is going to be so it does a bed map of only what you are going to print now saying that with a well leveled bed it's like a once and done for the bed on one full bed mesh in any spot. Where it shines is in smart park and if you be a little bit lazy or a fucked up bed the Adaptive Meshing is amazing!
I use both mesh and level. Flattest bed I've every seen with the quad leveling.
@@fintechrepairshop then KAMP is for you lmao you will love it or hate it lmao
Also add X bracing to the side panels to help with the shaking I would do X bracing on the left, right sides and the top and the back, some more weight in the bottom would help to or you could bolt it down as well. I would also change the size of the belt gears then run it at 1.5A again before pushing more power into the motors you can make gears cheaper than burning out motors.
The toolhead so light I'm not even stressing the 6mm belts. Its also not corexy so the belts are very short. I'm getting ready to do a 150K 1500mm test.
Like the idea of adding weight. I deigned the large angled corner brackets to help with flexing
@@fintechrepairshop Fire do it give it all she's got! Thought of something that may help. You could try adding in water cells so you can add or lose weight when/where it's needed.
@@fintechrepairshop Those large angled corner brackets should help but the X brace will take a lot of it out. My bad for all the post I will next time put them in one or keep my peace sorry again.
It maybe the camera but it looks to be stickin a bit and isn't sliding smoothly again it could be the camera. Also have you tried bigger belt gears so that you get more belt movement in one given rotation? Also fire as shit, you should be almost completely done with it.
Its the camera, its moving so fast it looks like its floating on the camera.
@@fintechrepairshop Thought so, you do be making a flying machine lmao keep up the fire work!
Yeah, we use a similar "home to bottom" system. We have endstops on each Z at the bottom and also a BLTouch. The Klipper home script first homes all Z motors to the bottom to attain a safe starting value from any position, then moves up to do bed tilt. 👍
I love probing and all the technology but it can be a headache sometimes. On the Celeritas I decided not to use probing or bed meshing. I just use two adjustable Z limit switches. The dual Z limit switch's are to sync the dual Z belted motors. I hit print and it homes Z in a few seconds and starts printing. Pretty amazing how repeatable it is. I didn't want to use mesh to slow down my printer and put extra load on the CPU. I want as much CPU power as possible dedicated to generating steps.
Another printer I worked on did they exact same thing. I'm trying to remember the name, maybe flashforge. Small fully enclosed printer. I really just fix the printers as a hobby, its fun to see how how everybody does it differently.
@@fintechrepairshop If you don't want to probe everytime, what if you had triple or 4x Z with endstops at the bottom...and just figured out the correct offsets one time and hardcoded them? You could even have a mount to temporarily attach a probe, which you remove after maintenance.
Can you use this for a bike
Having the same issue on my 2007 6.0
Replaced my dummy plugs. Its been years and still going strong.
just an fyi I have the same charger and yes it does work on deep cell batteries but is no supposed to be used for them it is meant for car style batteries and lawnmower or motor cycle batteries so long as they aren't lithium and are lead acid be careful what ya play with you can cause fires or severe damage to expensive things
Great video thx for sharing
Thanks for watching!
For context, I don't have an electronics background, so I was wondering if you could shed some insight into the matter. What are the pros/cons of 1000uF electrolytic caps over 10uF ceramic caps? I've read that ceramic caps have lower ESR - whatever that means 🤔 Did you add any extra circuitry besides the caps, or can I simply follow suit and solder some to VCC and GND of my stepsticks? Since the TMC2240 technically also support 36V, do you have any plans on bumping them up to said higher Voltage? I'm not sure if most mainboards have a 36V mode, but I'm also curious if it's feasible to use a soldering iron to push the VCC Nad GND pins upwards so they don't interface with the mainboard socket below and to be powered instead by a dedicated 36V psu directly rather than taking 24V (or 36V if possible) from the mainboard - all the while still receiving uART signals from said mainboard 🤔
I'm running 24V. I got 50V caps incase I want to step the voltage. The bigger the capacitor the more of a buffer. I might try some larger ones. I guess I didn't even think of ceramic caps because all the board manufactures are running electrolytic. In my last video I got my printer moving at 100K acceleration and 1000mm/s on 24V 1.5A
Those speeds would not have been possible without those caps.
@@fintechrepairshop I'm wondering if 63V or 80V caps would provide similar enough headroom for 36VCC - similar to how you're running 24VCC with 50V caps. 🤔
I'm doing a tesla style radio in mine
Very nice! Now you just need a hotend/extruder combo to keep up with the flow!
It's in the works. I'm going to machine one.
@@fintechrepairshop Thats sweet! Can't wait to see what you come up with.
@@MagTheFragI'm not sure if this would have been possible to reach those speeds without those capacitors. I was locking up at 35K without them. Motors are only warm at 1.5A.
@@fintechrepairshop I am planning to add some large caps to my TMC2240 drivers as well after seeing your video. I do have to redesign the duct that I am currently using for driver cooling before I add them.
Looking good!
Thanks, Just need to design a hotend that can keep up. At those speeds I need something can do 100mm^3 plus.
@@fintechrepairshop Supervolcano length meltzone for sure 😄
@@jessicav2031 I haven't uploaded the video yet but I'm cooking something up. I give a hint in the end of my flow test video coming up. It will have to be extreme at those speeds😀
Just looked at the super volcano. That's similar to what I'm thinking. First time I've heard of it.
@@fintechrepairshop I think it's not a bad option. The main issue with stock supervolcano is that it is too much mass to hang off a heatbreak and accelerate. The heat block needs some kind of custom external bracing. But otherwise, Mellow sells "adapter" pieces which are a segment of drilled threaded rod which allow you to use a normal V6 nozzle, and they sell standard style socks too. The genuine supervolcano block is plated copper, Chinese ones are all brass (ick).
I have doubt that those external add-on MOSFET boards are that great an idea... i mean the ones built in on this generation of boards are quite efficient and don't need much cooling. The external board ones must be arcane; plus they bypass the board fuses don't they.
I fixed hundreds of 3D printers. Everyone I've worked on with a bed over 300x300mm has a external mosfet or solid state relay.
@@fintechrepairshop If you need more than 10A on the bed it can make sense to add a MOSFET. Though IMO they should be mains powered beds at that sort of size and then with an SSR.
If it works, it's better than ours. After weeks of scraping and tuning we gave up on the thing, the saddle clamp track milling is off by like 5mm so the saddle basically can't be held down without a ton of reworking (or a large mill, I am trying to convince my cousin to let me use his Bridgeport to fix it...). I hear that's a pretty comon problem with minilathes.
This was an old video. I already have a larger 12" craftsman atlas lathe. Another $500 over up score. Maybe I will do a video about my OfferUp machine shop. I have two CNC mills, CNC lathe, 12" manual lathe, Horizontal bandsaw for $2400
I was working allot during winter and spring and didn't have time to upload videos. The mini lathes are not great but cool for hobbyist. I'm always on OfferUp looking for deals.
@@fintechrepairshop Honestly I would have been happy if it were actually usable at all. Oh well.
@@jessicav2031 Mine was pretty good. Not very rigid so you could not get very aggressive..
I always level mine off of the frame not the bed.
This is my first thought. you need to level the gantry to the frame. The bed is not a fixed point.
Yes I agree, most home users will not know how to do this. The majority of printers I fix are from home users. This is a quick way to get X/Z gantry level to the bed.
This is the exact issue I'm having now, and have been dealing with it for about 10 days. When I open the freezer door, I get airflow out of the top vent coming into the fridge, but with the freezer door closed, I can barely feel anything. I tried your hot water trick, but the water is just pooling in the opening. I sucked out as much water as I could and then used a blow dryer for about 10 minutes, but it didn't help. Do you have any other ideas on how to open up that frozen return air vent? Maybe I should just continue to try hot water?? I've already cleared out the drain from inside the freezer because it was frozen over. Water drained into the pan afterward. I just can't get the water to drain out from this return air vent from the fridge. Thanks to anyone who helps me. I truly appreciate it.
You're aligning it to the bed though, not the Z extrusions? So if the bed is not square to Z motion, the print's XZ plane will be skewed even with mesh probing. Especially because with this style the bed screws let you put it out of square, the build has no inherent "close enough" squareness? I guess it depends on the desired accuracy level 😄
I agree. These are super cheap printers. The goal is to make the gantry level to the bed as close as possible to minimize compensation. I've worked allot a 500mm build volume printers and you would be amazed how much I've seen them compensate for a bed out alignment. I probably should have mentioned I adjusted the beds screws first. On these cheap printers like the ender3 I prefer the dual Z belt/screw kit instead dual motor kit. Having the Z rods linked you are less likely to get the Z gantry out of alignment. I'm actually amazed how well the Celeritas works with the dual belted Z and dual Z end stops. I have no probe, just bed screws and repeatably is surprising.
I made this a while back. www.thingiverse.com/thing:6369320
They sell 2,4,6 blocks too. If you have a manually leveled bed You can lay them on their side to spare 6” and level a good chunk of the bed levelers just by looking for light/gaps.
thanks
I used craftsman snap ring plyers. Wow taking me 4 days to do both sides. I never even knew about the new dust shields. Lol
Okay. I had this problem with a fridge I recently took out of storage. I... 1) Unplugged the fridge. 2) Removed the back of the freezer panel. 3) Unplugged the wiring harness. 4) Noticed the fan wouldn't spin freely. 5) Removed the fan/ motor. 6) Removed the small electric motor. 7) Took the two small long bolts holding the motor together. 8) Cleaned the rust and residue of the magneto ( part surrounding the small motor) and the small motor. 9) Put the motor back together and tried successfully to spin it. After I felt it spinning with no resistance, I reassembled the motor back into the surrounding bracket, plugged the fan blade back onto the small shaft, the bracket onto the panel, plugged the panel back in, and screwed it back into place. 10) I cleaned out the stained porthole for transferring the cold freezer air down into the lower section of the fridge... Now it runs GREAT!! I hope this learning experience helps!!
Too much wire noise there and a missing stop bit or something. Many adapters are crap as well.
Samsung galaxy amp 2 good
Super great explanation of how it all works. Thankyou!
can you please tell the exat model , because I can't find it anywhere and the link is not working anymore
its called an ecut cnc board. I paid $30 but they sell between $155-$300
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Run Test_speed macro always for acceleration & speed testing
I will have to look into that, thanks.
Thanks for the vid. Ive had my simple metal since 2015, and put a extended heated bed on it 6 months into ownership with a xbox360 psu and ssr and went to a e3d extruder and like yours, still running today although finally I started to get bad banding in prints, so I looked and my Y axis lm8uu's were noisy and I replaced them and the rods & I stretched my Z to 340mm and added a 3rd Z rod as a stiffener outboard & a new metric leadscrew & delrin nut for a 2024 freshen up. While it was apart, I found the Z axis pulley had worked loose again on the Z, doh! probably the only fault all along. I came here looking for info about klipper wondering if I could run it on the marlin board itself but my board and extrudrboard is ok and I use octoprint on a bbb so maybe not the skr mainboard yet as I'm thinking about a ender 5 plus with a core-xy conversion to keep it company as they seem pretty hackable too. My son's pushing me to the ender because he thinks I'm going to gift it him like I did my elgoo mars resin when I upgraded to a photon mono x, but no chance, I love my little bot still because its been such a great tool all these years.
I still have mine and use it regularly. Long Live The Printrbot!!!
minimum layer time??
I will look into that, thanks. I also got very helpful information from @MagTheFrag below in the comments.
So a couple things that you are going to want to check in Orca; - Make sure to change you machine limits in the printer settings under motion ability, its likely set lower than the setting you have set in the print profile and will limit the speeds and accels (be sure to change accel while extruding). - I would use 100% accel to decel. You are correct in your assumptions made during the video. - Increase your Jerk/SCV, I personally use 50 for super fast printing and 12 for normal stuff. Rule of thumb is 1 jerk/scv for every 1000mm/s³ of accel. - Make sure to uncheck slow down for better cooling in the filament settings, and change your flowrate to reflect the max of your hotend. Orca will limit speeds to not exceed flowrate. These should fix most of the issues with the slicing for fast prints. I would also change minimum cruise ratio to 0 in klipper, and make sure your jerk/square corner velocity is set to what ever you end up using in the slicer.
All of my motion ability looks good, Have 100K for max acceleration. The feedrates look slower then I'm requesting in gcode. I don't have these issues in Cura so I'm sure something isn't right.
@@fintechrepairshop My assumption without being able to see your setting would be the slow down for better cooling setting in the filament settings under the cooling tab, or orca is restricting the speed as to not exceed your maximum flowrate setting. You can slice your file and change the color scheme of the slice in the preview tab to speed and/or flowrate to confirm what the gcode is actually commanding.
@@MagTheFragCool, thanks. I'm messing with it know.
i think volumetric flow was the issue. I will test tomorrow, thanks for all your help.
For the speed, what is the difference in the gcode itself? Are the generated feedrates incorrect? Is that a Volcano/CHT or custom? Have you measured the actual flow vs. extrusion rate curve? 800mm/s x 0.2 x 0.42 = 67.2mm^3/s, that's a lot! I certainly haven't been able to get that out of a Volcano, even with the Triangle PCD CHT insert nozzle. And, have you thought about implementing some kind of spring buffer on the frame side of the filament (like mounting the extruder on some kind of compliant mount maybe)? It seems like the head is going to be pulling a lot on the filament as the bowden tube curve changes shape at these speeds.
I think you said you had a bowden setup correct?
What are you using for the slicer?
@@fintechrepairshop I have two functional printers at the moment, one is bowden, the other has an Orbiter on it. My partner has a frankenprinter with bowden and one with a TBGS. (We are using BMG clones for bowden.) By the way, he is really happy with his TBGS. I might switch mine to use it. The filament path is insanely tight. We use PrusaSlicer. It's the kind of thing like, we started off using Slic3r a million years ago and it is more comfortable to stay with it. I tried Cura a bunch of times but as of ~4 years ago Cura still was very stupid about walls: it would constantly retract and travel between wall layers when it was not necessary, causing a lot of artifacts. I'm sure that is probably fixed by now but it really turned me off to Cura. Can you post the two gcode files or something? I'd like to see what the difference is in the generated code.
@@jessicav2031 The extruder I'm using on Orcinus is similar to the TBGS but all aluminum called the HGX-Lite. I started out in Cura with my printrbot simple metal then switch to simply3d for a few years. Orca is pretty cool. I tell the slicer to do 800mm/s and I don't get anywhere near that speed. Cura seems to do what I want. I'm looking at the orca slicer gcode to see what's up with the feedrate.
The extruder was moving faster then I've seen it move before. You definitely have a better math brain then me. I was really good at math when I was in school. You don't use allot of complex math in IT. Even when I was a full time software developer I didn't use complex math.
How much would you charge to try and see if you could recover some battery's for me
What kind batteries?
@@fintechrepairshop nimh batteries
7 cell stick pack
um, uhh, ummm, uhhhh, uhhhhhh, if you didnt say uh so much this video would only have been 2 minutes/// so ummm,, uhhhh.. maybe try working on , ummmm, you know,, uhhhhh, trying not to say uhhhhhhhhhh so much..
OK, you sound like an unhappy person. God Bless.