I am not a professional. The knives on my videos are my own, as are the sharpening stones I use. Everything I showcase, has been purchased by myself, or given to me by friends. What I do, is simply for my own enjoyment, and experience.
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UHMW Tape will be perfect match for this application ✌
How low can this go? 10 degrees per side? And how high can this go? 30 degrees per side?
Depends on the knife, stone height, and prob other factors im not thinking of. As far as low, you can set it dead flat parrellel to the stones. Again, depending on height. Obtuse angles, pretty much the same. I dont think you can get a true 90° on it but you could prob get close
I realize this is a few months old, but you want to level the horizontal arm with the knife mounted on the jig -- not with the bare jig resting on the stone.
Right on. No instructions 🤷♂️ 😁 i should have watched a video or two but i didn’t wanna spoil my first impression
Thanks for the mention Jef, looking good!!
Thanks for dropping by!
Is this sharpener suitable for sharpening Scandi grind knives like morakniv?
I’ve never found any guided system good for Scandinavian grind. I suppose you could angle the knife in such a way that you could make it work, but i don’t think it will without some tinkering.
@@Jef Thank you
Just what I was looking for. You’re the man.
🤘
Enjoyed the video
Thanks bro. 👊
Hey Jeff. Another cool video. Have you ever checked out Naniwa Habiki stones? I know you haven't had the best luck with that brand but those stones are some of the hardest I've used. Much more like Shapton Pros than say Chosera or Glass. I still like Shaptons better but that's another very hard vitrified ie ceramic stone to check out.
There's a lot of confusion surrounding "ceramic water stones" out there. Some think it's referring to the binder, some to the abrasive, some think it means ceramic like a Spyderco bench stone. The whole term bothers me because it's so unclear and general. I think the way you're using it; meaning a vitrified stone; is what it SHOULD mean. But in the industry and internet jargon it's not...at least not always 🤦♂️
Yes, I have used the Naniwa Habiki 1k. I didn't find it to be a hard stone, like Shapton. More in line with the King 1200. I know, two totally different beasts, but I am just talking about tactile feel. As for Naniwa, after my debacle with the professional series, I will never spend money on that company.
@@AnarchAngel1 well. here's the thing. both can be correct because ceramic can be an abrasive as well as binding. when its used as a binding method it's called vitrified.. or ceramic.. when it's used as an abrasive it's called ceramic. so..
@@jeffhicks8428 I may have misspoke..the Naniwa I have maybe the traditional 1k line..it is just a piece that was cut off the whole stone, that a buddy sent me. I have no marking on it to tell
That why I used arks and India stones and diamond I like hardness also quick setup do u have any advice on those stones?
imo Arks are obsolete stones in terms of functionality but they're still cool and a lot of folks feel sentimental about them. India oil stones are fine but I'd take a more modern water stone over india stones. I still like the Crystolon oil stones for certain things tho and the silicon carbide had more abrasive firepower. Idk what you mean by diamonds. But it could mean a lot of things. Diamond powders or slurries. Coated abrasives diamond plates or films. Bonded abrasives diamond whetstones in the form of resin, vitrified or even metallic binding on a scale of softer to harder. All of those things have their uses. For edges I mostly use the films and resin bound diamond because the films cut just as fast and last just as long as the plates however they have vastly lower tolerance and higher quality scratch patterns and just overall more versatile tool for doing edges. Anything from 120 um down to 0.1 um with grit distribution that's narrower than even high end whetstones. Resin bonded because I like the additional feedback over other bindings, the cost is much lower, the wear rate is still quite slow, and resin has it's own range from very soft more like what you get with Nanohone to very hard resin that wears very slowly like you get on some other products. The one drawback to diamond is that because it cuts everything just about the same in term of steel it is not capable of producing contrasting finishes on the primary bevel of laminated or pattern wilded knives like you see in Japanese kitchen knives. Diamond can do a lot of things, but it can't do that.
I think jeffhicks8428 pretty much answered everything well. I would say I have used those lapping films, and they do a fine job, but they are delicate. You can ruin them easily, if you are not on your game. I've slit them with my knife, just doing edge trailaing strokes, when I dug the tip in. I've sliced more than a few, doing edge leading. They really work best, in s stropping motion, which in itself, is a can of worms. That technique, has a tendency to create burrs, even at really high grits. Micro burrs are a real pain in the butt to deal with. The India stone, coarse, can be one of the absolute fastest stones, on the market. *IF* you can apply the appropriate amount of pressure. That is the biggest draw back. It will cut just about any steel, with the right force. Using oil, can make this precarious, so I would just advise using something a bit more friable. The fine side is quite capable of handling simple steels. Think 1095, 440c, and such. Once you start introducing high carbides, it too, requires more pressure, than I feel is safe. Arks are in that same boat, of simple steel sharpening. They can cut carbides, as Cliff Stamp illustrated in video, when he microbevels 10v? I can't recall what steel it was, but that video is still on youtube should you care to watch. For me, doing a full bevel sharpening, they are just too slow. I have used them, more so in past, than I care to admit. Even sharpening s30v on them. The amount of time spent on those, along with the fact freehand always creates some rocking motion, all my bevels off them, are extremely convexed. Do I have any advise on them? Keep the surface textures conditioned well. Use loose SIC powder on glass, to create a coarse texture on them, and reapply it, as they glaze. Since the stones are not friable, all the cutting is going to come from the surface texture, and pressure. I had someone tell me once, that convexing the Ark stones, made them cut faster. I can't say if this is true, as I never tried it. Those stones are pretty hard, and I would hate to round them out, discover it isn't for me, and then have to re-flatten. I don't use them enough to bother.
Enjoyed the video.
Thanks 🙏
Can you clearly post your stones and grit plz? Thanks
I do. On every video. Check the “description” under the video. All the information is there
I had one of these years ago, don't know what happened to it. Free hand is much more convenient. Enjoyed the video.
Without a doubt, free hand is always more convenient ;)
interesting progression. I love that sp 120. once you get the hang of it you can get really fine toothy edges straight off that stone with just a few strops on ultra fine compound. I wouldn't use anything more than like half a micron if you want to preserve the teeth though. according to larrin's catra tests, a 120 grit edge scores like 50% higher in a catra test vs a polished edge but ofc it's going to be a bit more likely to chip.
I always suspected coarse edges gave better results in cut testing, just never bothered to confirm it. Sadly, just about any edge loses bite, if you use diamond or cbn. At least, in my experience. Cbn seems to work a tad better, but everytime i have tried them, they just do. It’s yet another reason why i prefer plain ole white compound 🤷♂️ You’ve given me something new to experiment with however. I’ll have to fiddle with a few and test my results.
@@Jef nice
I've never used one of those guide things but I always like checking your videos, always something cool. That pride abrasive 220 sure is abrasive. sounds like a really good brick or maybe some German asphalt. headphone users, lookout.
lol sorry about that. The 220 is indeed coarse. So much so, I fig’d i would have apexed quicker. Water just flows right through the thing. Ive debated adding a seal of cashew laquer, but the last porous stone i did that to, absorbed so much, it is almost ruined.
That was my first guided system starting out. Then I switched to Lansky, and finally learned to free hand. You could apply tape like straight razor to prevent wear. I think they made roller wheels on the more expensive holders for plane blades.
Yea i thought tape might work 👍 Works well, but I must have edited out the clip showing how wavy the bevel came out. These guides always have some issue or another, but they get ya sharp.
@@Jef I think you can only count on those guides as an initial bevel setter. Switch to free hand after the bevel is set and finish out. Dragging that clunky piece of metal along in the final stages ruins the initial work. You need to feel the stone in the finishing stages.
Well….bc i know how to freehand i would agree, that is an option. Someone who doesn’t, it wouldn’t be an ideal situation. Maybe, stick to one stone, and done. Regardless, the cut test at the end, says it worked, through the entire progression. Clunky, sure. I think, something simpler, would be a better option. Such as, the Naniwa guide, i showed at the beginning.
@@Jef Small knives (short) are not clunky because the guide stays stable on the stone. Long blades are better done in sections and then blended in. I feel that once you have a flat straight edge ( no convex) you can maintain the angle free hand by watching the swarf. When I started out, I was working with a lot of jacked up blades, and needed to reprofile to a basic edge. I resorted to sharpening some edges on bricks and sidewalks to get by on the jobsite. Now I carry a pocket diamond plate to get me by until I get home and break out the good stones.
What’s wrong with convex? Just easier for you to sharpen flats, or there something else there you prefer? I’ve done the same on sidewalks and bricks, just to get an edge going. I now carry sand paper, and several different stones with me, on my work truck. The pocket sized venev stones are almost always in my back pack.
Just going back to someold vidios on repairing knives I file down the bolsters to flush with the blade, or slight relief to allow 23:54 23:57 23:59 full contact of the cutting edge all the way to the bolster for chopping and slicing. I polish the grind to match the original finish.
Yea that seems to be the most common way people deal with this type of bolster. Honestly, we got rid of all these knives. I now mainly use customs, and a few Henckels we purchased.
Love the channel, man. You’re my favorite sharpener on KZread lol. I’ve been wanting to pick up some Nubatama stones which is quite difficult. I saw a random comment claiming that the Gesshin 400 is an identical stone to the Imanishi Latte 400? Do you know if that’s true? It looks like CKTG has an Imanishi Latte. Would that be the same stone that Ken was selling under the Nubatama line? Finding the 1k extra hard or the 2k speckled you’re using here seems to be impossible. Anything similar you would recommend? Like you, I love hard stones with lots of feedback. I currently have the Shapton pro 320, 1k, and 5k. Any advice would be appreciated. Hope you’re doing well!
I dont own a Gesshin, nor plan to. They seem way over priced. So i can not make the comparison. The Latte I purchased did come from Cktg. It was under $50 if memory serves. Worth every penny. As far as analogs to the 1 and 2k Nubatama, there are a few choices that are close. None are truly the same, so unless you can get ahold of the real thing, you’re limited. However, the closest i can think of, you already have. The Shapton Pro 1k. The hardness is close, as is the speed and scratchy feel. Not quite there, but its the best option, imo. The Pride abrasive 1k is another, as far as speed is concerned. The hardness/scratchy feel, is difficult to replicate, and it just isn’t quite here. Finally, I want to say the Norton waterstone 1k, is similiar in speed, and maybe, slight scratchy feel. I havent used it in awhile so can’t say with certainty Hardness and scratchy feel, are hard combinations to match. The Latte has both, but it is a 400 grit, not 1k.
On another note, if you want to try purchasing some, i would try on cktg forums. Ken used to frequent there often. I know he had a large following of sharpeners, on that forum. Maybe if money is right, someone will bite.
@@JefGreat info, thanks man
Dude I totally forgot! Bernal Cutlery Takarazukushi combo stone 1/4k. The 1k is damn near spot on, the Nubatama 1k. Not 'extra hard', but close enough. Same coloration, same scratchy feel. The 4k reminds me of the Nubatama Bamboo 5k. Again, not quite as hard, but pretty damn close. edit:: Bernal Cutlery Takarazukushi - #1200 Grit Blue Marble Japanese Whetstone The 1200 blue marble, looks suspiciously like the 2k Nubatama. Are they the same? I don't know. I need to get one and see
Hi jeff, best regards, so the kabar is really good one, and sharpening very well, very good knife, thanks for the session of sharpening 👍👍👍
Thanks for checking it out 👊 I got a black handled version years ago that i used lightly. I remember it was really nice in edc tasks. Will have to put it through my work routine to see how it holds up. I’m sure I’ll be sharpening it again on video soon enough 😁
Jeff doing his thing! Good stuff. My knife next!
They are priced very well 👍
thanks for the upload Jef !
Thanks for checking it out. This one is not everyone’s flavor 😉
Throw in a pre-cut test so we can get an idea of what you are starting with.
Valid point. Both these were really dull, from my sharpening notch. Multiple times, i slipped with the file, and raked across the edge. The angles were also very obtuse. Around 25-27°/side.
@@Jef Did you use a diamond file for the notch? Maybe you could have included filing the notch in the vidio.
I used a diamond file, and I have several videos that demonstrate the process. It is a bit too slow and tedious. For that, I would most likely do a separate video, but I already have several examples.
I believe there is a rubber holder for that diamond plate. You can ask them.
Right on. Do you know if they are being included with the devices, or, does everyone have to request it?
That mark is the racking mark from anodizing. Have to hold it some where.
Ahhh right on. It is such a small thing most wouldn’t even notice it. At the time, MT was making almost perfect knives. Seeing any flaw was very rare.
Missing that apex and then compensating with a gradual steepening is what I have done wrong for many, many years. It changes everything by getting those done completely. Good show of it.
Glad you understand what i was showing off. Kinda hard to describe to those who just don’t sharpen or realize what they are looking at. I’ve never been ashamed to show off my mistakes as it helps me learn. Wish more sharpeners would do the same. It takes quite a bit of effort to do a video like this. Not so much the recording but the editing. Now a days, i just dont think i would have it in me to go this far. It’s nice to know someone is still out there checking it out. Thanks for the comment and watching! 🙏
Nice conversion would make a great slicer great to practice your craft on , God bless you and your family. Lee
Thank you for the kind words 🙏 I wish you and yours joyous fortune
Hey Jef, how would you compare this to a Hapstone T1? I'm coming from a guided system (worksharp pro precision) but got gifted a set of naniwa whetstones. Would love to freehand eventually but I'm interested in a guide to help me in the meantime.
T1 is a little more simple. Plus, it isn’t a giant apparatus. I think the t1 is much easier. However, this device is no slouch. It does what it does, well. Honestly, they are so different, its hard to compare. If i had to choose one…i would prob go with the sharpworx. Just bc it doesnt have jaws that clamp. I’ve always had issues with the stones rubbing the tip of the clamps, and a few other annoyances.
@@Jef Does the Sharpworx get in the way at all for freehand motion/positioning? That's one of my worries since the goal would to just eventually not use it at all. The setup definitely looks more involved which makes the T1 more appealing. I do sharpen smaller pocket and paring knives but they don't get used/wear as often as my bigger kitchen knives. I'm assuming it'd be less of a worry with the stones rubbing on clamps with taller blades?
Actually, smaller blades rub more. The apex is right smack against the clamp mouth often times. This device can get in the way of your natural motion, if your motion doesn’t follow along, with its trajectory. I didnt find it to be a major issue, but definitely something i noticed. Someone else mentioned, it completely changed how they did things. As long as you allow the system to do its thing, it shouldn’t be a problem. Look through here for comments from others, who mentioned this. You may gain some insight, or even ask them, some follow ups as to how they dealt with it.
Dad taught me to sharpen knives when I was very young. I bought this sharpener because it results in such a precise bevel. I'm sharpening my first blade with it, and I've discovered that 6 decades of hand honing are a bit of a handicap. I had to learn to let the sharpener do the guiding, and I found I find I get better results working with the edge towards me. I use water with a little bit of dish soap on my diamond hones and I can watch how the water moves in front of the edge to see where the action is. The soap makes things slippery, and the grippy surface of the magnet isn't as effective as it would be without it. The soap keeps any oil from clogging my hones, so I just have to learn to deal with it. In my opinion, oil on a hone, man-made or natural, is a mistake.
Beautiful job!. Thank you.
lol this video is so awful. I wish it wasn’t as popular as it’s become, bc i would delete and redo it. Too long, too much talking, and i just didn’t end, when i should have. Thank you for the kind words. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment 🙏
Does this work well for a blade with a more dramatic curve like a Gyuto? Just wondering if you're able to do a good job getting the tip sharp on this system on a blade like that.
Yes. The system rotates with the belly very well.
Ohhhh friend, you ruined the style of the Mikov Predator, dagger-style, not knife-style, they look horrible like that (obvious to my personal taste)
😂 yea the single edge isn’t exactly pretty. Still, dagger style makes a poor edc, imo.
@@JefIn the end, I transformed my predator into one similar to yours, it didn't turn out as good because the sharpener doesn't have much experience sharpening and I lost about half a centimeter of blade but it turned out sharper than the factory.
Thank you Jef, for this demo. It is invaluable as there isn’t much info provided. Much appreciated!
Thanks for checking it out 👊
Version 1 is more useful as it allows much lower angles for knife thinnning.
hgas anyone tried putting teflon tape on the manets
and a good dry lube would be great too...(for the rods) dont skimp on the stones is my guess...for my cnc i always buy quality bits
Nice overview Jef. I just picked up the 1k and didn’t realize that these were essentially the glass stones. I actually thought they were a new soaking stone but I am still happy as the 1k is probably my most used of the glass stones and it was only 35 bucks.
Hello Jeff, I have been trying to sharpen my clip point recon 1 (s35vn) with a hand held/small sharpal. However, I keep getting nasty scratches on the finish. Is this normal? I am holding it at a 20-30 degree angle but can’t seem to get it shaving sharp and keeps getting scratched. Any advice would help.
Scratching the main grind? If so then you are likely holding the angle to acutely, or the main grind has some issues. Take a photo of your angle, or even a short video; email it to me. Jefjewell @ gmail . Com Sharpal, btw, are some shady ass people. They had me do an “honest” review, and threatened to sue me, if i didn’t pull it down. I showed how the stones go bald, and how poorly they are made. Just a lil fyi for ya.
It was on sale so I got this for my first stone hopefully I can learn to sharpen as well as you fairly quickly
Awesome 👏 Just use the sharpie trick, or neevesknives solution of allowing your finger to indent against the spine and mark it with a sharpie. If your unfamiliar check his channel for the tutorial. Its pretty clever.
If you cant locate it let me know and i will shoot a quick video showing the process
@@Jef oh shoot, thanks for the tip. ill go check it out, my stone just got here.
Jeff..I know this is a old video...but what is in the bottle you used and what is the tempt of the water you are soaking the stones in?
The water is just room temp/cold water, from the tap. The bottle is the same. Just plain, room temp, tap water.
You state you used the .5 before the 2.5. I would quess you meant 5.0 before the 2.5.
I used them in order of micron level. It sounds like i misspoke. 1 micron - 0.5 micron - finishing on 0.25 micron.
1. Would you say this is suitable for thinning knives? 2. Whats the lowest possible angle? 3. Whats the best stone/plate you used for thinning? Thinking about the Atoma 140.
The lowest setting is 10°. You might be able to fiddle with the arm to get even lower, but i don’t think it would be ideal, for that process (thinning). Thinning requires alot of grinding, on a fairly large surface. I found diamond plates work extremely well on v bevels, but large surfaces, they are slow. For this process, i find friable stones, to be the best option. With a stone that sheds grit readily, you don’t have to apply a ton of pressure. There are many options to choose, but if speed is what you are after, look to the criteria i spoke of. The shapton pro 120, and the norton crystolon, are among my two favorites. Yes, the norton is considered an oil stone, but you can use it with water. I soaked mine in oil for 24 hrs, and let it air dry after. Since that time, I’ve mainly used a water/oil/soap mixture as my main lubricant. You could just use water, or even soapy water, if you wanted. Either way, it’s a fast, coarse stone, that’s friable. On another note, if you are just set on diamond, consider a very coarse resin bonded stone, like venev. The coarsest available is suitable, although it would not be my first choice. Or, if you just want a plate, try something like chef knives to go, store branded diamond plate, at 80 grit. There maybe coarser out there, but it’s the only one i know of, off the top of my head.
@@Jef 10dps is really dissapointing, i sometimes want 8 or even 6 for transition bevel, before 15dps mircobeveling. (RIP Cliff Stamp.) Also scienceofsharp showed that DMT cut literally 10 times slower than atoma on larger surfaces, likely due to the pattern on the atoma having more pressure. So i wouldnt generalize it, but keep your experience in mind. I would try to get the deep scratches out with a 325grit diamond plate.
That is interesting, that they have such a big difference in cutting speed, on large surface areas. I can’t say i have tried to compare them side by side, but i do like, atoma, over dmt. My dmt have shown many issues in qc, from abrasive particles on a fine stone, leaving deeper scratches than my ex coarse, to plates having actual dents, that caught my edges, as i did fwd strokes. Atoma, on the two plates i have tried, were just better, in all ways. Speed, qc, and scratch patterns. The few times i have used diamonds to thin a knife, i felt like pressure was required. It is probably just a trick of the mind, from using water stones. It’s just something i recall, and couldn’t say one way or another, if it helps. Just throwing it out there. 👍
@@Jef Yeah, QC with DMT is suprisingly terrible, and there is grit contamination. In his tests its abrasion rate (on larger surface) was as efficient as a 16k stone... 😂 And regarding diamonds, usually people say very light pressure with diamond, but thats for sharpening, which is way less contact area, i think for thinning one can and data shows should use much more force.
I know this video is a tad old but I recently purchased a 4000 and 8000 grit shapton glass stone, and they certainly recommend flattening them prior to each use however their diamond plate they sell is absurdly costly at over $300-400 and I did some research and found the Atoma 400 should be apt, can you by any chance confirm this?
You do not have to flatten then after every single use. Shapton are hard and maintain shape extraordinarily well. You Should be able to sharpen a good 6+ knives on em, before you need to consider this. Hell I’ve done a dozen and still had decent flatteness. On that note, if you are going to use a diamond plate to flatten, get the atoma 140. It’s coarser and Will do a faster job. They sell cheap diamond plates at chef knives to go, in the 80 and 140 grit range as well.
Btw flattening before/after each use wears the stones faster. You have to replace them more often, doing so. This is why Shapton recommends it. They make more money
@@Jef I read more comments after this and noticed that this method gives more use out of the block, I am very new to this, like extremely so thanks for the info and I have decided to use the method in the video to extend the longevity of my blocks. What grit of Silicon Carbide for the aforementioned blocks do you recommend? I noticed you used a finer grit on your finer grit blocks as well.
I believe i started with 120/220, and the finer stones, i took to 400/500 grit. Many loose silicone carbide powders, are sold in sets, of four grits. If you just prefer to buy em all separately, maybe grab 96 grit, 120, and 500. They are all capable, but 96 helps speed things up. Otherwise, just snag the 120/220 and 500. Those should get you where you need to go, with little fuss 🤘
@@Jef So just to confirm, 96 grit is fine on the finer blocks and won't damage it?
Thanks! My employer doesn’t supply these blades and I don’t want to switch to a snap off utility knife so this will save me $
You can sharpen em several times before they start thickening Up and cutting poorly. Plus the sharpened edge seems to last longer than fresh out the box 👌
I can't stand a crappy blade to handle ratio.
I’ve held a few knives that it didn’t bother me so much. Still, i agree. Make use of the real estate available
any thoughts on Spydercos ultra fine ceramic stone 306UF? Flattening? How to?Thanks
Exact same process for flattening and conditioning. The only difference between the uf and the fine, is surface texture. You can change both with loose sic powder. I did a video or two on spyderco ceramics. I think they are awesome. Just fine. I use em for touch ups
@@Jef Thanks!
nice video Jef. How would you say that 240 compares to the 320 sp. I've still never tried the gritomatics but that thing honestly looks like it could be finer than the shapton from the videos.
Its faster than shapton 320. I would put it up against the sp 120. I had a burr on some of this edge after the first few strokes.
hey brother can you tell me what kind of tub that is or or sharpening pond your using. Thanks.
www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-Commercial-FG330900CLR-3-5-gallon-Included/dp/B000VAUFRW/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=ilGHb&content-id=amzn1.sym.278a231e-7496-43c2-a864-2367bca2eeb2%3Aamzn1.symc.c32ea383-0406-481f-aa79-ef5129d2367b&pf_rd_p=278a231e-7496-43c2-a864-2367bca2eeb2&pf_rd_r=TWJ5S7BZPAEQ8D63R1VY&pd_rd_wg=6j4nk&pd_rd_r=cbfddf31-c0ab-41d4-bc7b-ade50733461a&ref_=pd_gwm_ci_mcx_mr_hp_m
The Suehiro Debado LD-21-DN (or LD-21 if you want the base) is the best non-diamond coarse stone on the market today. Debado SNE and MD series are obsolete and pointless, don't waste your time. Debado LD-101 skip it (better stones in the 800 - 1200 grit range). Debado LD-601 good but expensive, plenty of competition in this grit range (4000 - 6000).
The “best” non diamond coarse stone on the market? That is a bold statement. I consider myself a connoisseur of coarse stones. You have definitely got me interested. I’m buying one 😁🤙
Well i was gona buy it. It’s 88$. Too many cheaper options on the market like the norton crystolon
This is why you are the MAN!!!
👊
Jef really good video. Most knife companies seem not to be able to get the sharpening choil right for whatever reason and it’s definitely annoying. I really appreciate all the time and effort you put into making these videos brother and I hope you and your family are doing well 👊🏼
Thanks for checking it out 🙏 Yea I’ve just about given up on knives makers getting the choil correct, but i gotta call em out on it. If enough customers realize there is an issue, and voice concern, maybe someone, somewhere, will listen 😁
I have a horl2 and while it’s good, it’s not great. This is exactly what I’ve been waiting for. I’m going to buy one, especially as a very good price right now…
Hope you enjoy it! I’d advise watching some more videos on it, to make sure my details are correct 😂 Not coming with instructions is just silly
Hey. Yes no instructions was a little odd. But I watched your great video again to get how to assemble. Got ab angle cube also. Just done my chefs knife. 400 diamond then 1000 diamond followed by 6000 grit. And strop. Wow. Razor sharp. Way better than my horl2. Thank you
Glad it helped
Thanks for the videos, tips etc. Merci
Thanks for watching 🙏