It's good you didn't splash it into your eye. You could have lost an eye.
@ln15777 күн бұрын
Congratulations, it's good that you finally succeeded, and only small losses around. My memories - a few words: This method is effective. The scenario presented here is very dangerous. The reaction is highly exothermic. The solution may foam and bubble for hours. Hydrogen is released. It's worth being outdoors. But how to protect cats, hedgehogs, birds and children from getting burned? The solution should be replenished from time to time because the process takes a very long time, which means that checks must be made. After etching, you need to have easy access to running water to rinse the frame perfectly. And then dry it thoroughly, clean our tube with a wire brush on a drill, remove filings, and finally pour oil over the frame and protect it against corrosion... The best thing that happened to me was that before digestion, I met a plumber who showed me his hands. They were full of sodium hydroxide scars. When fire burns us, we feel pain immediately. The hydroxide we use burns gently. But deep. I cut off the seatpost at the top, glued a kind of funnel on it, and sealed the area around the pipe from the bottom, on the bottom bracket side. Thanks to this, the mud fell down and I could conveniently pour the newly added liquid from the top. In the funnel, the solution boiled like soup and splattered. Previous attempts with a punch, two car jacks, pouring kerosene or heating were not effective... If two or three days with WD-40 or kerosene do not help, it is worth dissolving it immediately with hydroxide.
@PiersWebster6 күн бұрын
Thanks for sharing your experience. Yes, it's nasty stuff. That's why I kept the solution relatively week and took around 5 days, changing the solution every 24 hours. It still fizzes and makes a mess though!
@user-hn5kh7qt9rКүн бұрын
I have had this problem with a disaster. So the latest stuck seat post l took it to the seatpost man in Chorley. Total success. This is dangerous and bonkers!!
@Gribbo99997 күн бұрын
Seriously, NEVER put poisonous or caustic liquids in an unmarked drinks bottle!
@PiersWebster6 күн бұрын
No blackcurrants were harmed/consumed in the making of this film. Promise.
@candydigga11 күн бұрын
AWESOME 💯💯
@jeremynorthАй бұрын
Bargain build I'm not a fan of the stem/bar you put on it, though I understand your reasoning.
@PiersWebsterАй бұрын
Thanks. The black ones? No - I'm not a fan either! They came off an old Raleigh Pioneer I bought to salvage the BB on. They're a more practical - if much less pretty - option for the intended user.
@JaidonN07Ай бұрын
Great video!
@pierswebster9629Ай бұрын
Thanks
@petergiourelas37533 ай бұрын
Nice bike
@sohrabrustum85827 ай бұрын
Had a similar problem but found the bumper bolt had unscrewed, just needed a bit of WD40 and persuasion to drop out. If you do the front bumper its more of a faff because the the fronts of the two air ducts will drop down, and you have to line them up as you slide the bumper back on. Might need 2 folk at the rear to get the bumper into both side retainer slides. Maybe thought about just a steam clean and lanocare spray?
@PiersWebster7 ай бұрын
Yes, sadly the nearside rear bolt was completely welded in on mine. Managed to get it it all off and back on regardless as you saw. Definitely a faff though! I'm trying to avoid the front one unless I need to. No compelling reason to do it at this stage but good advice - thanks!
@sohrabrustum85827 ай бұрын
@@PiersWebster Its the best of the XJ series ,really nice to drive, enjoy it.
@EssexSilvering7 ай бұрын
Another great video, ... This is so interesting in what your doing here, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
@PiersWebster7 ай бұрын
Thanks, will do!
@EssexSilvering7 ай бұрын
These videos are great, I've got all this to come next summer, I will be doing every bush, rubber, shocks, springs and like your doing with getting rid of all this rust underneath the car!
@PiersWebster7 ай бұрын
Glad you're getting some value out of them! It's been a massive learning experience for me so far - i've had to piece disparate bits of knowledge together from around the internet. I'm sure there are plenty of other people learning on the job as I am - hence the videos!
@wandervision698 ай бұрын
Awesome vid! This helps a ton more than the pics on the forum
@PiersWebster8 ай бұрын
Glad it helped! I've got everything back together now and the car back on the road. Just need to edit the footage so I can get that video uploaded as well.
@EssexSilvering8 ай бұрын
Nice one, .... This is going to be my next job, I want to install the polly bushes in there as an upgrade. Keep up the good work. 😎
@PiersWebster8 ай бұрын
Thanks - not doing anything like that on a super-hot day again! Top tip. Get a breaker bar extension onto your spanner for those top bolts as soon as you can. I couldn't get my socket breaker bar in there hence the double spanner trick! Also, if you cut your bushes out with a reciprocating saw as I did, go easy - I ended up cutting into the A frame as well. Good luck! Shocks and springs next.
@Saaketti8 ай бұрын
Hi. In last summer I welded the exactly same spot on my x308 xjr at the rear door arc. Reason why the paint is bubbling is because under that metal plate there is empty cavity. That cavity is filled up with some black nasty wet goo. The goo has dried out over the years and there is moisture now eating up the metal inside out. You need to replace the metal and find out the condition of the sill metal. Sill does continue under the bubbling paint metal. You said that there is filler because someone has replaced the sill. No. It is factory made. Like is the 3cm thick seam sealer at the firewall, inside sill and floor connection corner.. 😄
@PiersWebster8 ай бұрын
Interesting. Thanks for letting me know. I did manage to get my Bilt Hamber "wand" insertet through the holes for the screws. I dumped half a can into the cavity until it was spilling out of the sill at the bottom. I know it won't fix it but i'm hoping it will arrest any further spread until next summer!
@Saaketti8 ай бұрын
Yep. The thing is that the sill top part is rotting under the goo. But the bottom could be still intact. I had to replace top portion of the sill under that bubbled metal plate and while there was a gaping hole I could look in to the sill and there were no rust at the bottom. I can sent you a pictures from google photos if you want to see what I mean.
@PiersWebster8 ай бұрын
That would be great👍
@toonanvers37508 ай бұрын
fantastic build!
@PiersWebster8 ай бұрын
I'm glad you like it!
@EssexSilvering9 ай бұрын
Great job, looking forward to part 2 😎😎😎
@PiersWebster8 ай бұрын
Thanks - appreciate it. I should have the next video ready to go in the next 24/48 hours. It will focus on the joy i've had with rust removal and my attempts at painting! I've been away and struggling to find editing time around work
@germurphy49869 ай бұрын
Nice, I have a very similar frame, except it has down tube shifter bosses. Columbus Brain tubing is very light, although lugless looks a bit too much like an aluminium frame. The entire rear triangle and the down tube are chromed on these, including the bottom bracket area, do it makes for a great protection against rust. Mine is being repainted in PDM colours at present
@germurphy49869 ай бұрын
(mine is Brain tubing)
@lordbrennanofsealand57729 ай бұрын
I had this model about 10 years ago, best car I ever owned….. but yeh a swine to work on!. Good luck, I shall be following.
@PiersWebster9 ай бұрын
It's the rusty bolts that are the problem. Without those, life would be a lot easier!
@marccarter13509 ай бұрын
Amazing build! This was what i could not afford at that time. Shocked you never went with Campagnolo, but that groupset looked brand new!
@pierswebster96299 ай бұрын
Thanks. Yes, Had the DA knocking about in the garage so made sense to use it!
@jeremynorth Жыл бұрын
What a beauty! All it needs is an Italian saddle rather than the USA one. I love that you put Deda bars and stem to match the frame. That's the kind of attention to detail that makes a nice job into a great one
@jeremynorth Жыл бұрын
Lovely job. That fork is a big improvement, though I'd have sawn more off the steerer tube to get rid of the 'chimney'. I suppose if you want to raise the bars at some point it makes sense to keep it.
@pierswebster9629 Жыл бұрын
Much tighter geometry on this one - it was designed for racing. My middle aged back can't cope with being that low these days, hence the "chimney" to get the bars in a slightly more comfortable position!
@kudesignfilms9246 Жыл бұрын
I was searching for DEDA MUREX and came across your video. I am a lover of vintage Italian and my favorite bicycle is a bottecchia, and I saw in the 1995 Concorde the workmanship of Italian craftsmen of a higher dimension. First of all, I was fascinated by the beauty of the seamless frame.
@pierswebster9629 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for your comments. The craftsmanship is indeed incredible. It still astounds me how steel can be formed into such thin tubes to produce a frame that's lighter than many modern carbon ones!
@HOTON Жыл бұрын
Hi! You dig the italian vintage seamless bike frames? Do you know the Cinelli Laser? Believe its the worlds first steel aero frame😁👌
Пікірлер
It's good you didn't splash it into your eye. You could have lost an eye.
Congratulations, it's good that you finally succeeded, and only small losses around. My memories - a few words: This method is effective. The scenario presented here is very dangerous. The reaction is highly exothermic. The solution may foam and bubble for hours. Hydrogen is released. It's worth being outdoors. But how to protect cats, hedgehogs, birds and children from getting burned? The solution should be replenished from time to time because the process takes a very long time, which means that checks must be made. After etching, you need to have easy access to running water to rinse the frame perfectly. And then dry it thoroughly, clean our tube with a wire brush on a drill, remove filings, and finally pour oil over the frame and protect it against corrosion... The best thing that happened to me was that before digestion, I met a plumber who showed me his hands. They were full of sodium hydroxide scars. When fire burns us, we feel pain immediately. The hydroxide we use burns gently. But deep. I cut off the seatpost at the top, glued a kind of funnel on it, and sealed the area around the pipe from the bottom, on the bottom bracket side. Thanks to this, the mud fell down and I could conveniently pour the newly added liquid from the top. In the funnel, the solution boiled like soup and splattered. Previous attempts with a punch, two car jacks, pouring kerosene or heating were not effective... If two or three days with WD-40 or kerosene do not help, it is worth dissolving it immediately with hydroxide.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Yes, it's nasty stuff. That's why I kept the solution relatively week and took around 5 days, changing the solution every 24 hours. It still fizzes and makes a mess though!
I have had this problem with a disaster. So the latest stuck seat post l took it to the seatpost man in Chorley. Total success. This is dangerous and bonkers!!
Seriously, NEVER put poisonous or caustic liquids in an unmarked drinks bottle!
No blackcurrants were harmed/consumed in the making of this film. Promise.
AWESOME 💯💯
Bargain build I'm not a fan of the stem/bar you put on it, though I understand your reasoning.
Thanks. The black ones? No - I'm not a fan either! They came off an old Raleigh Pioneer I bought to salvage the BB on. They're a more practical - if much less pretty - option for the intended user.
Great video!
Thanks
Nice bike
Had a similar problem but found the bumper bolt had unscrewed, just needed a bit of WD40 and persuasion to drop out. If you do the front bumper its more of a faff because the the fronts of the two air ducts will drop down, and you have to line them up as you slide the bumper back on. Might need 2 folk at the rear to get the bumper into both side retainer slides. Maybe thought about just a steam clean and lanocare spray?
Yes, sadly the nearside rear bolt was completely welded in on mine. Managed to get it it all off and back on regardless as you saw. Definitely a faff though! I'm trying to avoid the front one unless I need to. No compelling reason to do it at this stage but good advice - thanks!
@@PiersWebster Its the best of the XJ series ,really nice to drive, enjoy it.
Another great video, ... This is so interesting in what your doing here, keep up the good work and thanks for sharing.
Thanks, will do!
These videos are great, I've got all this to come next summer, I will be doing every bush, rubber, shocks, springs and like your doing with getting rid of all this rust underneath the car!
Glad you're getting some value out of them! It's been a massive learning experience for me so far - i've had to piece disparate bits of knowledge together from around the internet. I'm sure there are plenty of other people learning on the job as I am - hence the videos!
Awesome vid! This helps a ton more than the pics on the forum
Glad it helped! I've got everything back together now and the car back on the road. Just need to edit the footage so I can get that video uploaded as well.
Nice one, .... This is going to be my next job, I want to install the polly bushes in there as an upgrade. Keep up the good work. 😎
Thanks - not doing anything like that on a super-hot day again! Top tip. Get a breaker bar extension onto your spanner for those top bolts as soon as you can. I couldn't get my socket breaker bar in there hence the double spanner trick! Also, if you cut your bushes out with a reciprocating saw as I did, go easy - I ended up cutting into the A frame as well. Good luck! Shocks and springs next.
Hi. In last summer I welded the exactly same spot on my x308 xjr at the rear door arc. Reason why the paint is bubbling is because under that metal plate there is empty cavity. That cavity is filled up with some black nasty wet goo. The goo has dried out over the years and there is moisture now eating up the metal inside out. You need to replace the metal and find out the condition of the sill metal. Sill does continue under the bubbling paint metal. You said that there is filler because someone has replaced the sill. No. It is factory made. Like is the 3cm thick seam sealer at the firewall, inside sill and floor connection corner.. 😄
Interesting. Thanks for letting me know. I did manage to get my Bilt Hamber "wand" insertet through the holes for the screws. I dumped half a can into the cavity until it was spilling out of the sill at the bottom. I know it won't fix it but i'm hoping it will arrest any further spread until next summer!
Yep. The thing is that the sill top part is rotting under the goo. But the bottom could be still intact. I had to replace top portion of the sill under that bubbled metal plate and while there was a gaping hole I could look in to the sill and there were no rust at the bottom. I can sent you a pictures from google photos if you want to see what I mean.
That would be great👍
fantastic build!
I'm glad you like it!
Great job, looking forward to part 2 😎😎😎
Thanks - appreciate it. I should have the next video ready to go in the next 24/48 hours. It will focus on the joy i've had with rust removal and my attempts at painting! I've been away and struggling to find editing time around work
Nice, I have a very similar frame, except it has down tube shifter bosses. Columbus Brain tubing is very light, although lugless looks a bit too much like an aluminium frame. The entire rear triangle and the down tube are chromed on these, including the bottom bracket area, do it makes for a great protection against rust. Mine is being repainted in PDM colours at present
(mine is Brain tubing)
I had this model about 10 years ago, best car I ever owned….. but yeh a swine to work on!. Good luck, I shall be following.
It's the rusty bolts that are the problem. Without those, life would be a lot easier!
Amazing build! This was what i could not afford at that time. Shocked you never went with Campagnolo, but that groupset looked brand new!
Thanks. Yes, Had the DA knocking about in the garage so made sense to use it!
What a beauty! All it needs is an Italian saddle rather than the USA one. I love that you put Deda bars and stem to match the frame. That's the kind of attention to detail that makes a nice job into a great one
Lovely job. That fork is a big improvement, though I'd have sawn more off the steerer tube to get rid of the 'chimney'. I suppose if you want to raise the bars at some point it makes sense to keep it.
Much tighter geometry on this one - it was designed for racing. My middle aged back can't cope with being that low these days, hence the "chimney" to get the bars in a slightly more comfortable position!
I was searching for DEDA MUREX and came across your video. I am a lover of vintage Italian and my favorite bicycle is a bottecchia, and I saw in the 1995 Concorde the workmanship of Italian craftsmen of a higher dimension. First of all, I was fascinated by the beauty of the seamless frame.
Thanks for your comments. The craftsmanship is indeed incredible. It still astounds me how steel can be formed into such thin tubes to produce a frame that's lighter than many modern carbon ones!
Hi! You dig the italian vintage seamless bike frames? Do you know the Cinelli Laser? Believe its the worlds first steel aero frame😁👌
@@HOTON Yes, beautiful frame
Ποδηλατάρα.
Clever!
very nice