Hello, I’m planning my own build, and this video is a great resource. Well done!. I’m considering the orientation of the ribs to support the track box and tie it to the deck, was there a reason why you went perpendicular to the centre line of the board rather than parallel to it? (8mins 20 seconds)
@matshape5 күн бұрын
I did both in the past, both work, but perpendicular uses less HD foam and helps to tie the boxes together.
@FrankP836 күн бұрын
Ai or not...this kind of craftsmanship will NEVER die...thanks for you amazing job so detailed explained 👌
@laser33228 күн бұрын
Great video! Is there a reason that you put the 300g biaxial patch on the top? I would have thought there would need to be less sanding and filling if it was underneath the other layers.
@matshape8 күн бұрын
thanks. As there is extra thickness, there will be a step that needs to be blended. if the patch was below, when blending it, you'd risk sanding through the fibers of the full layer disconnecting the patch from the rest, but with the patch on top, no risk, the full layer stays continuous.
@lvnmylife8 күн бұрын
Really great technical skills building brother! Impressive! That tape and V cut trick is gold! Definitely will use that! Ya stressing me out with all the shots not wearing PPE, or taking it off in a dust filled room and knocking dust off your clothes. Dig all your tape tricks.
@Zarrell9 күн бұрын
Beautiful! Can't believe how much work and many coats go into making these boards.
@obktownposse12 күн бұрын
Great job 👍 I'm loving it. Wish you all the best for future projects 🤙 Best regards 🤙 Ralf
@aubr33tv6815 күн бұрын
i love that you have a timer for the project
@matshape15 күн бұрын
it was to answer the question "how long did it take" on most projects before... alway hard to estimate :)
@user-ef2cm7vz2h16 күн бұрын
nice job
@MrTahitiSeb16 күн бұрын
I hope your health care insurance will not look your video when you will send them bills for pulmonary and skin problems. Really nice craftmanship anyway.
@matshape16 күн бұрын
I do wear a mask each time I sand carbon, mostly when I sand fiberglass, and rarely for the rest... but I have good ventilation too :)
@kuntanay262717 күн бұрын
NO DUSTMASKS…REALLY?
@VAdu5622 күн бұрын
Super bravo...on sent bien que ce n'est pas la première que vous construisez.. ce qui est étonnant, autant de travail pour un flotteur qui ne touche même pas l'eau... c'est quand même important le nombre de couches de carbone, expoxy, résine...dommage pour la finition blanche du flotteur qui jure un peu avec toute la qualité que vous avez engrangée pour la réussite de ce flotteur... Chapeau bas, très bon travail...!!
@matshape21 күн бұрын
Merci! pour ces planches tout l'intérêt est le décollage... avec le moins de vent possible ou à la pagaie, elles touchent l'eau peu, mais c'est critique. La finition blanche, c'est surtout pour le soleil, pour éviter de trop chauffer quand il fait plus de 40 degrés :)
@anzplaya404223 күн бұрын
Absolute craftsmanship 😁
@Davids-eq7ky25 күн бұрын
Can you explain your track placement some please? I see you find the CG, but how do you offset tracks from that?
@matshape24 күн бұрын
It depends on the foil you're using, your preferred stance and the volume of the board. If the volume is close to your weight, you want to be standing on top of the CG = center of buoyancy, with more volume, you can stand a few inch behind to let the nose float better without sinking the tail too much. Now that you have your back foot position, you get your mast position, center the box there and you'll have the most adjustment possible. for reference, I'm ~73kg, that board is 115l, I set the center of the box 16in behind the center. On my previous ~85l, it was 11in behind center.
@goodevins940825 күн бұрын
Wow what skills great content
@andreyl270525 күн бұрын
awesome)
@twang288827 күн бұрын
great video! the NPX boardies at the end was a real surprise! -old school
@matshape27 күн бұрын
🤣 they are indestructible ...
@wing__foilАй бұрын
Cool build. But seems overkill. I just use a 3D printed hook made from PETG. Plenty strong enough. And when it fails I just print new one😜
@matshape29 күн бұрын
thanks, 100% agreed it's overbuilt, but i wanted to try that technic, and after breaking a few 3d printed ones, i like the assurance that whatever i do, it will NOT break :)
@MyRaihauАй бұрын
Good job, nice board. I have a question, with a wind surf board, do you think I can converted it as a downwind foil?
@matshapeАй бұрын
That's not impossible, but quite a challenge, and not sure the result would be worth it. If it is a regular windsurf, adding foil box is tricky as you'd have to tie in the existing structure of the board, the width might also be an issue, if it's too wide, you can cut down the outline, but it will be close to impossible to get smooth rails after you're done shaping/glassing new one. Finally, most windsurf boards are build much stronger than a downwind foil needs to be, so probably too heavy. I really think your time will be better invested making a board from scratch, and not end up much more expensive...
@briansprock2248Ай бұрын
Perfectionism. It's not a compliment. 😂
@user-gg2mo3ll5yАй бұрын
Just thinking about how much times and effort it takes to finish this…😮😶☺️
@aveenvpАй бұрын
Props man, this is a huge effort and really well done. Out of curiosity, how much did you charge the customer for all this work?
@matshapeАй бұрын
thanks! probably in the 150$ range... i too that repair more for a fun project... note that this is not my job, just a hobby :)
@Moritz08536Ай бұрын
Awesome repair. What causes the melting?
@matshapeАй бұрын
I would really like to know too... could be sea water and heat (the tail not open was still very wet, or some solvent applied to clean a crack on the outside that seeped inside (like acetone), some incompatible resin that could also eat the EPS... or something else :)
@ramb1353Ай бұрын
@@matshape 99% that is where someone tried to repair with PU resin rather than epoxy. PU melts expanded polystyrene a treat X) I once bought a board that someone had done this too and had covered it up well enough until I got it home and found a chasm in the middle of the deck.....good thing I love repairing em....as you do clearly too. Enjoyed watching thanks :)
@foilandwaterАй бұрын
Incredible job once again Mat 👏🏼😁 you have MASTER level skill and patience
@heavyweatherАй бұрын
Love your videos...as always very nice.
@CncFabАй бұрын
Nice. How do you made the final part of the vidéo 😮 ?
@matshapeАй бұрын
Thanks, for that last shot, I hung the board by the leash plug in front of a black fabric. With lights placed carefully you can avoid shadows in the background. And slight color correction to clean it up after.
@CncFabАй бұрын
@@matshape Thanks !
@glynbritton9792Ай бұрын
Wow, perfect finish again 🤙🏼
@user-un5ob9cx3kАй бұрын
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@sasha2007kazАй бұрын
heroistic job!!!
@usmanworks2616Ай бұрын
the tape trick is awesome
@jsparrow1001Ай бұрын
where do you buy your supplies?
@matshapeАй бұрын
it's kind of a treasure hunt where I live... polystyrene and epoxy are found locally as importing them is way too expensive. For the fibers, HD foam, microballoons and silica : I get them from easy composites. And finally, for boxes, the leash and vent plugs, pad: aliexpress.
@lunamarfurniture2377Ай бұрын
Amazing skill and beautiful results! ❤
@beachthor1Ай бұрын
I get now why those boards cost $2,000+
@ErasmusCagliariАй бұрын
Really enjoy your builds! Very cool! What did you use for the outer shell of the harness line?
@matshapeАй бұрын
thanks! some random rope I had, description says "Double Braided Polypropylene Floating Rope, Nylon Rope" 1/4 in diameter
@ErasmusCagliariАй бұрын
Ok. Got it! So you basically pulled out the inner life of a thicker diameter rope and “filled” it again. I am doing a wing leash and so this info comes in handy.
@ellupo4279Ай бұрын
The V hot wire cutter is nice. Please whiche wire do you exactly use for this ? Which heating wire are you using exactly, what diameter, what electrical resistance in ohms?
@matshapeАй бұрын
thanks, it's 20AWG nichrome wire, i can't remember where i got it, but that should be pretty standard.
@ellupo4279Ай бұрын
@@matshape thxs
@nicoloceccarelli9653Ай бұрын
Amazing video!!! Congratulation!! Thia video is fantastic for build board with less dust. I have a question for you: when cut eps with the hot wire, how is the current and the tension? The same of the v cut? Thanks a lot!!
@matshapeАй бұрын
thanks! less dust and no epoxy on the floor... good criteria when working in an apartment. For the hotwire, the current is what matters to get the right temperature and depending on the length, the tension will be different. A given wire gage needs a certain current to get the temperature you want. So depending on your power supply max voltage, there's a max length you can make your hotwire.
@acllmates2784Ай бұрын
That's great! Do you have autoCad blueprints of this table?
@matshapeАй бұрын
thanks, no auto cad sorry, but I have screenshots of the dimensions used for the templates, or the fusion360 file if you want...
@acllmates2784Ай бұрын
@@matshape could you send me these screenshots, please?
@acllmates2784Ай бұрын
@@matshape Yes I want them, could you send me them, please?
@AaronGranadosMusicАй бұрын
@@matshape I´d like to get the fusion360 file, thanks
@ChilkoNZАй бұрын
Do you 3D model this in a software first to determine the dimensions? If so which one
@matshapeАй бұрын
Yes, I use fusion 360 , it's mainly to make sure I can get the volume I want in the dimensions i have in mind. Also allows me to see how the board look and feel. And then I just put dimension on the profiles to draw my templates.
@gnevesdАй бұрын
Can you share how you made the v groove cutter?
@matshapeАй бұрын
it's is quite simple, just a small piece of 20 awg nichrome wire, bent to get the right groove depth with round loops at each side. Then the 2 screws sandwich the loops at the end of the wire the long wires to the power supply. finally I adjust the power supply voltage/ amps to get 6 to 7 A (the wire length will dictate the voltage). That nichrome wire is not very rigid, so it's important to get it hot and let it melt the polystyrene ahead when you move or it will bend back.
@gnevesdАй бұрын
@@matshape thanks for sharing
@sebastienmoisson5375Ай бұрын
Awesome job !!! Makes me want to try :) you dont do cutlap ?
@matshapeАй бұрын
not unless it's 100% needed like for a surfboard with different colored laminations (with glass) bottom lamination on this one is some kind of cutlap except i didn't put tape on the boundary and relied on the extra thickness of the wood sandwich. As you can't see through carbon, cutting the lap along a tape before the resin cures is not very doable anyway, the best way for cutlaps on carbon is to use several layers of tape, let the resin harden and sand down to the tape... so kind of what i did :)
@mawe6016Ай бұрын
Hi Mat, great skills and very nice result.
@johnkellet7783Ай бұрын
What you are doing is great. But for your own sake you should be wearing a mask. Dust not good for you
@jurajreingraber772421 күн бұрын
Not just the dust, also vapors from melting styren and epoxi resins....
@lvnmylife8 күн бұрын
Totally why I came to the comments section. Buddy needs to take care of those lungs! I've been cringing the whole video. There's no way his ventilation there is anywhere good enough, then he busted out the resins and glass. I'm like... BRO what are ya DOIN?! Then he's sanding! I'm yelling at screen. Killing me smalls!
@MNCPMSteve2 ай бұрын
Very professional looking result, kudos to you, Mat 🤙🏼
@davidshlimak39022 ай бұрын
What’s the long router bit you use to cut the slots called?
@matshape2 ай бұрын
it's from aliexpress : Flat Head EVA Engraving Cutting Tool CNC Router Bits End Mill 6x100x150x4T - 32x450mm Milling Cutter For EPS Foam Engravin. it's dangerous but efficient :)
@ZumbieJusus2 ай бұрын
Great techniques. I learnt a lot. Struggle though with you not wearing a respirator. That’s a lot of foam particles you are inhaling.
@MNCPMSteve2 ай бұрын
I came here to say the same thing!! 🤯. Great to see micro balloons used, been many years since I've used them.
@jamesstewart53712 ай бұрын
Fantastic idea where there' s a will there's a way !!!. I can read the subtitles thanks Mat .
@user-kv3fm8tk5s2 ай бұрын
Piece of art ❣️
@abrahamvelazquez12952 ай бұрын
crack!!
@deepdivefoiling2 ай бұрын
So you just overlap top and bottom skin on the rail? Don't do a full wrap where top skin goes to bottom and bottom skin to the deck? Is it because board is so thick? Wouldn't full wrap be stronger? Thanks
@matshape2 ай бұрын
yes, having both skins going over top and bottom rails would be stronger... but also heavier, and it wouldn't fit on my wet out table :) as the rails only have 1 double layer, I was careful not to sand into them.
@ericseidel49402 ай бұрын
Nice work, what is the cost off all materials ?
@matshape2 ай бұрын
around 350$... details are in the video description.
Пікірлер
재료비+공구사용료+인건비= < $5,000
Hello, I’m planning my own build, and this video is a great resource. Well done!. I’m considering the orientation of the ribs to support the track box and tie it to the deck, was there a reason why you went perpendicular to the centre line of the board rather than parallel to it? (8mins 20 seconds)
I did both in the past, both work, but perpendicular uses less HD foam and helps to tie the boxes together.
Ai or not...this kind of craftsmanship will NEVER die...thanks for you amazing job so detailed explained 👌
Great video! Is there a reason that you put the 300g biaxial patch on the top? I would have thought there would need to be less sanding and filling if it was underneath the other layers.
thanks. As there is extra thickness, there will be a step that needs to be blended. if the patch was below, when blending it, you'd risk sanding through the fibers of the full layer disconnecting the patch from the rest, but with the patch on top, no risk, the full layer stays continuous.
Really great technical skills building brother! Impressive! That tape and V cut trick is gold! Definitely will use that! Ya stressing me out with all the shots not wearing PPE, or taking it off in a dust filled room and knocking dust off your clothes. Dig all your tape tricks.
Beautiful! Can't believe how much work and many coats go into making these boards.
Great job 👍 I'm loving it. Wish you all the best for future projects 🤙 Best regards 🤙 Ralf
i love that you have a timer for the project
it was to answer the question "how long did it take" on most projects before... alway hard to estimate :)
nice job
I hope your health care insurance will not look your video when you will send them bills for pulmonary and skin problems. Really nice craftmanship anyway.
I do wear a mask each time I sand carbon, mostly when I sand fiberglass, and rarely for the rest... but I have good ventilation too :)
NO DUSTMASKS…REALLY?
Super bravo...on sent bien que ce n'est pas la première que vous construisez.. ce qui est étonnant, autant de travail pour un flotteur qui ne touche même pas l'eau... c'est quand même important le nombre de couches de carbone, expoxy, résine...dommage pour la finition blanche du flotteur qui jure un peu avec toute la qualité que vous avez engrangée pour la réussite de ce flotteur... Chapeau bas, très bon travail...!!
Merci! pour ces planches tout l'intérêt est le décollage... avec le moins de vent possible ou à la pagaie, elles touchent l'eau peu, mais c'est critique. La finition blanche, c'est surtout pour le soleil, pour éviter de trop chauffer quand il fait plus de 40 degrés :)
Absolute craftsmanship 😁
Can you explain your track placement some please? I see you find the CG, but how do you offset tracks from that?
It depends on the foil you're using, your preferred stance and the volume of the board. If the volume is close to your weight, you want to be standing on top of the CG = center of buoyancy, with more volume, you can stand a few inch behind to let the nose float better without sinking the tail too much. Now that you have your back foot position, you get your mast position, center the box there and you'll have the most adjustment possible. for reference, I'm ~73kg, that board is 115l, I set the center of the box 16in behind the center. On my previous ~85l, it was 11in behind center.
Wow what skills great content
awesome)
great video! the NPX boardies at the end was a real surprise! -old school
🤣 they are indestructible ...
Cool build. But seems overkill. I just use a 3D printed hook made from PETG. Plenty strong enough. And when it fails I just print new one😜
thanks, 100% agreed it's overbuilt, but i wanted to try that technic, and after breaking a few 3d printed ones, i like the assurance that whatever i do, it will NOT break :)
Good job, nice board. I have a question, with a wind surf board, do you think I can converted it as a downwind foil?
That's not impossible, but quite a challenge, and not sure the result would be worth it. If it is a regular windsurf, adding foil box is tricky as you'd have to tie in the existing structure of the board, the width might also be an issue, if it's too wide, you can cut down the outline, but it will be close to impossible to get smooth rails after you're done shaping/glassing new one. Finally, most windsurf boards are build much stronger than a downwind foil needs to be, so probably too heavy. I really think your time will be better invested making a board from scratch, and not end up much more expensive...
Perfectionism. It's not a compliment. 😂
Just thinking about how much times and effort it takes to finish this…😮😶☺️
Props man, this is a huge effort and really well done. Out of curiosity, how much did you charge the customer for all this work?
thanks! probably in the 150$ range... i too that repair more for a fun project... note that this is not my job, just a hobby :)
Awesome repair. What causes the melting?
I would really like to know too... could be sea water and heat (the tail not open was still very wet, or some solvent applied to clean a crack on the outside that seeped inside (like acetone), some incompatible resin that could also eat the EPS... or something else :)
@@matshape 99% that is where someone tried to repair with PU resin rather than epoxy. PU melts expanded polystyrene a treat X) I once bought a board that someone had done this too and had covered it up well enough until I got it home and found a chasm in the middle of the deck.....good thing I love repairing em....as you do clearly too. Enjoyed watching thanks :)
Incredible job once again Mat 👏🏼😁 you have MASTER level skill and patience
Love your videos...as always very nice.
Nice. How do you made the final part of the vidéo 😮 ?
Thanks, for that last shot, I hung the board by the leash plug in front of a black fabric. With lights placed carefully you can avoid shadows in the background. And slight color correction to clean it up after.
@@matshape Thanks !
Wow, perfect finish again 🤙🏼
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
heroistic job!!!
the tape trick is awesome
where do you buy your supplies?
it's kind of a treasure hunt where I live... polystyrene and epoxy are found locally as importing them is way too expensive. For the fibers, HD foam, microballoons and silica : I get them from easy composites. And finally, for boxes, the leash and vent plugs, pad: aliexpress.
Amazing skill and beautiful results! ❤
I get now why those boards cost $2,000+
Really enjoy your builds! Very cool! What did you use for the outer shell of the harness line?
thanks! some random rope I had, description says "Double Braided Polypropylene Floating Rope, Nylon Rope" 1/4 in diameter
Ok. Got it! So you basically pulled out the inner life of a thicker diameter rope and “filled” it again. I am doing a wing leash and so this info comes in handy.
The V hot wire cutter is nice. Please whiche wire do you exactly use for this ? Which heating wire are you using exactly, what diameter, what electrical resistance in ohms?
thanks, it's 20AWG nichrome wire, i can't remember where i got it, but that should be pretty standard.
@@matshape thxs
Amazing video!!! Congratulation!! Thia video is fantastic for build board with less dust. I have a question for you: when cut eps with the hot wire, how is the current and the tension? The same of the v cut? Thanks a lot!!
thanks! less dust and no epoxy on the floor... good criteria when working in an apartment. For the hotwire, the current is what matters to get the right temperature and depending on the length, the tension will be different. A given wire gage needs a certain current to get the temperature you want. So depending on your power supply max voltage, there's a max length you can make your hotwire.
That's great! Do you have autoCad blueprints of this table?
thanks, no auto cad sorry, but I have screenshots of the dimensions used for the templates, or the fusion360 file if you want...
@@matshape could you send me these screenshots, please?
@@matshape Yes I want them, could you send me them, please?
@@matshape I´d like to get the fusion360 file, thanks
Do you 3D model this in a software first to determine the dimensions? If so which one
Yes, I use fusion 360 , it's mainly to make sure I can get the volume I want in the dimensions i have in mind. Also allows me to see how the board look and feel. And then I just put dimension on the profiles to draw my templates.
Can you share how you made the v groove cutter?
it's is quite simple, just a small piece of 20 awg nichrome wire, bent to get the right groove depth with round loops at each side. Then the 2 screws sandwich the loops at the end of the wire the long wires to the power supply. finally I adjust the power supply voltage/ amps to get 6 to 7 A (the wire length will dictate the voltage). That nichrome wire is not very rigid, so it's important to get it hot and let it melt the polystyrene ahead when you move or it will bend back.
@@matshape thanks for sharing
Awesome job !!! Makes me want to try :) you dont do cutlap ?
not unless it's 100% needed like for a surfboard with different colored laminations (with glass) bottom lamination on this one is some kind of cutlap except i didn't put tape on the boundary and relied on the extra thickness of the wood sandwich. As you can't see through carbon, cutting the lap along a tape before the resin cures is not very doable anyway, the best way for cutlaps on carbon is to use several layers of tape, let the resin harden and sand down to the tape... so kind of what i did :)
Hi Mat, great skills and very nice result.
What you are doing is great. But for your own sake you should be wearing a mask. Dust not good for you
Not just the dust, also vapors from melting styren and epoxi resins....
Totally why I came to the comments section. Buddy needs to take care of those lungs! I've been cringing the whole video. There's no way his ventilation there is anywhere good enough, then he busted out the resins and glass. I'm like... BRO what are ya DOIN?! Then he's sanding! I'm yelling at screen. Killing me smalls!
Very professional looking result, kudos to you, Mat 🤙🏼
What’s the long router bit you use to cut the slots called?
it's from aliexpress : Flat Head EVA Engraving Cutting Tool CNC Router Bits End Mill 6x100x150x4T - 32x450mm Milling Cutter For EPS Foam Engravin. it's dangerous but efficient :)
Great techniques. I learnt a lot. Struggle though with you not wearing a respirator. That’s a lot of foam particles you are inhaling.
I came here to say the same thing!! 🤯. Great to see micro balloons used, been many years since I've used them.
Fantastic idea where there' s a will there's a way !!!. I can read the subtitles thanks Mat .
Piece of art ❣️
crack!!
So you just overlap top and bottom skin on the rail? Don't do a full wrap where top skin goes to bottom and bottom skin to the deck? Is it because board is so thick? Wouldn't full wrap be stronger? Thanks
yes, having both skins going over top and bottom rails would be stronger... but also heavier, and it wouldn't fit on my wet out table :) as the rails only have 1 double layer, I was careful not to sand into them.
Nice work, what is the cost off all materials ?
around 350$... details are in the video description.