Пікірлер

• 
  @janbill792 ай бұрын

  I didn't know anything about Yard Man I found out a little. Was bought out by Montgomery Ward department store, and then MTD in 1975. Yours looks , while I have no idea. What engine make are your working on as I watch you go thru that carb? Just watching the video for the fun of it I don't own one. But I do have a small collection of 1961-2009 riding lawn and garden tractors.

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  @notfactoryapproved2 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the history. I knew MTD supplies thr parts now, fortunately they are still available. I didn't know Montgomery Ward owned them as well. The engine is actually quite common according to Lawn Mower Hospital in Edmonton. Its a 2cyl opposed Briggs &Stratton 18 Hp. Thanks for watching.

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  @franktatom18372 ай бұрын

  For most model years, including 1947, GM issued a Fisher Body Manual for all of their makes. The Fisher manuals contain instructions on windshield installation and sealing. There is a widely available reprint for the 1947 model year GM vehicles. Obtaining and reviewing the appropriate manufacturer manual before beginning any work is a best practice. Windshields were installed in a brief period of time at the factory following the proper procedure.

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  @TheE46Guy3 ай бұрын

  This hood's pretty rotten...Props that you try to fix it and I think you are going to make it great again. Dropped a like for your effort :)

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  @notfactoryapproved3 ай бұрын

  Thanks. I like to see if I can do anything with junk. If I do it enough I might even learn something. Maybe others can see how to do the work better through the process. Thanks for the like.

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  @markpatterson70704 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  @ablair2455 ай бұрын

  Thank you so muxh. This was the only video I could find about replacing or reparing a sensor 6 pin clip on a wiring harness. I have a 2014 Ford Fusion. I appreciate the video just to get an idea. Hope we can just rewire the sensor? Wish us luck! Great job on your videos! 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

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  @notfactoryapproved4 ай бұрын

  Glad I could help.

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  @SpicyRok74826 ай бұрын

  Check the pwr brake booster vacuum pump seal ring on the rear of passenger ( R-H ) cyl. head. You seem like a good man. Please wear eye protection while blowing out ignition coil bores.

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  @dette-envers-les-animaux7 ай бұрын

  good job but to be definitively efficient, you should put grease everywhere. grease et the only thing very efficient against rust. put grease between metal and carpet, inside door, behind metallic bumper, behind (inside the car), under the vehicle, behind the repairs you can make (everywhere inside hidden ereas - instead of using paint), hollow areas (necessarily hidden, so no need to be aesthetic). For rear wings unreachable with a paintbrush, use an extender and poor old oil everywhere each year.Handyman Experience - 35 years. From france

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  @user-fw2bg4gn8x7 ай бұрын

  I'd like to pick your brain if you don't mind. I have a Dremel 3000 recently it just stopped working I started to take a look at what could be the issue and began with replacing brushes when I took out the brushes one of them was so worn it was no longer existed and half of the spring seem to have evaporated as well.....no idea why. It wasn't simply broken off and fallen into the tool. It didn't exist anymore.... The other brush was completely worn.... Replaced them but no power still.... Any clue what could have caused an apparent disintegration of the brush and half the spring? I feel like knowing that would help as i continue to figure out the issue....

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  @notfactoryapproved7 ай бұрын

  Hi. Did the brush holder break? How about the commutator, is it really rough? It may not work because the commutator segments have brush carbon between them. You could use a box cutter to carefully remove the carbon. Dont push hard on the blade, it's best to run it lightly between the segments until the carbon is gone. If the brush holder is broken you will probably have to buy a new dremel. The variable speed dremel are about 3x the price of the single speed ones. Hope this helps.

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  @user-fw2bg4gn8x7 ай бұрын

  @@notfactoryapproved no the holder is fine. The original carbon brush wore down to the point it no longer existed. When I opened the tool one side the carbon was worn down drastically. On the other side only half a spring was in the holder. The entire carbon piece was no longer..... No traces of it or the other half of the spring.... Was wondering how that's even possible..... It was the first time I ever opened the tool since purchase. How does the carbon brush and 1/2 spring simply cease to exist?

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  @user-fw2bg4gn8x7 ай бұрын

  @@notfactoryapproved also I'll try cleaning the commutator free of any carbon traces... At least I think that's what you were suggesting

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  @notfactoryapproved7 ай бұрын

  Yes. That's right. I have only ever seen brushes worn out from a rough commutator. In your case one brush was either defective or the other one was stuck in the holder. It probably was using the spring as the brush. If that's the case you should see a groove cut in the commutator. From what you have told me I suspect you should buy a new one. I have often tried to fix something too far gone and just wasted time and money and then had to buy a new one anyway.

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  @TheU-hv8qj8 ай бұрын

  Jeez just buy a new spout for twenty bucks.

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  @notfactoryapproved7 ай бұрын

  Did that. Had to do it again in about 6 months. That's when I decided to find out what was wrong. No problem with it yet.

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  @richbinaz8 ай бұрын

  Looks like you are having lots of fun in your garage. Keep it up 🙂 I use a similar wheel balancing method after trying and failing with a poorly made bubble balancer. kzread.info/dash/bejne/fKqClstmoa3XfdY.html 3rd of 3 video's (so far) The hub pilot on your wheel looks to be quite big, which is an issue I'm facing with large wheels. I think getting some plastic hub centric rings might be the solution to keep everything centered and reduce the size of the ball needed to support the wheel. If you have a lathe, I bet you could make up your own hub centric ring to reduce the wheel pilot down to suit the size of the ball you have. That would eliminate any centering errors - no more adjusting with a screwdriver.

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  @notfactoryapproved8 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the feedback. You're right, centering is an issue. I don't have a lathe. You have reminded me though that I have a seal driver that I may be able to do something with. All the best.

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  @notfactoryapproved8 ай бұрын

  I've seen a disk used on some videos. Let me know what you think. If you have seen Wray Schellen he has a good video.

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  @SkaterStimm8 ай бұрын

  I ended up purchasing a shrinking disk, I haven't used it much but It seems like it will work well on areas you don't have access to the backside. very informative video. Thanks.

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  @notfactoryapproved7 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the advice. I was in the US last week and bought a 4 1/2" shrinking disk. See Episode 118 if you're interested. I may try to make a 7' in the future. I would like to try one that is rippled as well to see if it hammers the metal into place.

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  @ptk72409 ай бұрын

  Would have been alot better if lighting was used so we could see it

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  @notfactoryapproved9 ай бұрын

  Hi, if the image shown is where you have the concern I will try to lighten it up. If there is a longer segment of video let me know and I'll try to improve the images. Thanks.

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  @bigshep67839 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the video, I’ll be back to watch again when I’m doing my headliner.

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  @notfactoryapproved9 ай бұрын

  Thanks for the tip. I'll try it the next time I have a tire off.

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  @robbaird59729 ай бұрын

  and if you have no join laps what so ever in the tire, well then you should be good to no matter you place the tire

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  @robbaird59729 ай бұрын

  there is a secret how to balance steel rime and tires ,no led no balancering needed, look in side the tire, check in side the tire good, to see if you can find any layers of rubber that joins the tire to gather, thay should be around 5 or 6 inch apart, you can see the riges in the tire, check the lenth of the laps make a chock mark in the middle of it, and add the chock mark on the valve stem, 2 laps, check the distence thay are apart, divide the distence in half, make a chock mark add it to the valve right in like with the valve stem, no waits no shaking nothing like a speed balancer, it's like a tire with a red dot, goes on the valve stem

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  @cartermclaughlin290810 ай бұрын

  ineresting video! Do you have any tips on diagnosing? I have a table saw (skilsaw 3102) that won't turn on. Supposedly the switch often breaks, but it is fine. There are only 2 leads on the switch. videos I watched all had 3-4 wires going to switch, but I'm guessing that means mine is simpler. Should I detect a circuit when I test the wires going into the switch? Because I do not. Please help! So far I've just turned the thing upside down. I am hesitant to dismantle the whole thing without knowing what to look for.

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  @notfactoryapproved10 ай бұрын

  Carter, thanks for watching. It looks like your saw is a table top unit. It should be using a universal motor. Does it start if you tap the motor? Or carefully start the blade and then operate the switch? Use some wood. These motors have lots of torque. Is there a humming sound at any time? You could check the cord to the switch with an ohmmeter. You can get a useable meter for about 20 $,£,€ depending where you live if you dont have one. Check each wire from the plug to the switch. You could also look to see if there is a red reset button anywhere in the circuit, including on the motor. Good luck.

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  @cartermclaughlin290810 ай бұрын

  @@notfactoryapproved Thank You! No, I get NO response. I haven't tried to turn the blade with the power on - The blade does not turn without constant heavy pressure so I can't just "start" it spinning, but I would have heard SOMETHING if it was getting power and stuck. By "cord to switch" do you mean check from the power plug to the switch? I actually think this is a pretty low quality saw - At first glance I thought "This looks like a hand saw they cut the handle off of and clamped inside a steel box." Then I saw a guy write a review who said "This looks like a hand saw they cut the handle off of and clamped inside a steel box." After he dismantled it. I'm guessing there's some fried wires in there. It's funny, I walked by that thing every other day as a kid, impressed with my dad's fancy saw.

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  @shawnphillips930911 ай бұрын

  Very helpful Thanks

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  @prashantgosavi791211 ай бұрын

  This video very helpful for me

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  @notfactoryapproved11 ай бұрын

  Glad to hear it. Thanks for letting me know.

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  @stewardhamparian9325 Жыл бұрын

  "promosm" 😣

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  @elmerfudd835 Жыл бұрын

  I was trying to see how you separated the armature assy..

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  Mr.Fudd, How is your friend Bugs? Unfortunately I have buried the table saw in the new mezzanine. The next time I am up there I will look. If I remember correctly there was a plate with screws holding the bearing end of the armature. There were also screws running through the body of the motor holding the opposite end on. It is normally best to remove the bearing end first. I don't know why I didn't show that part in the video. You may have to separate the motor case to get everything out. If you haven't done it before watch out if there are brushes or not. These carbon segments can get stuck and make it very difficult to get the armature back in..

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  I just went to the end of the video and worked back. I show the installation of the armature. If you reverse the order it should work. If the bottom bearing is stuck you can pull up gently on the fan as close to the shaft as possible. Or you can pry up on the fan with a screwdriver on each side of the shaft. If that doesn't work try a little heat on the plastic. Then lift or pry, it should pop out.

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  @gregoravish Жыл бұрын

  Cool. I have a 1932 chevy that I need to replace the headliner. Just tuned in to get some tips....

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  @Dumptruck0405 Жыл бұрын

  Thank you

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  You're welcome.

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  @oldschoolcars3318 Жыл бұрын

  I am at 12:01 and am lost in trying to figure out how the fabric all fits together. I am sure this is simple yet i have no clue how the hoop is sewn into the headliner in places where two pices come together. A section drawing would help one understand.

• 
  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  Hi OldSchool. Hopefully this description helps. The headliner is sewn where you want the seam to match the hoop position. The hoop position is determined by the location of the hoop retainers on the car. Fold the headliner at these positions and sew a seam-this will result in a hoop but you will use this as a flat piece to hold the actual hoop. I did it this way because I thought I would get a better result than if I tried to make this seam the bow hoop. I then atttached the bow hoop. This hoop is approx 2" of material folded flat and sewn onto the flat piece of material on the headliner seam. If you are comfortable with your sewing skills-I was not-then you can make the headliner seam the hoop for the bow. Doing it my way will result in a better headliner seam and hidden hoop seam. If you sew like I do. I would recommend two seams on the hoop for strength. Sometimes there is a fair bit of force as the hoop pulls the headliner tight in the corners of the roof. All the best, Ron.

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  To add to my description, The original hoop is shown at 7:30 +. This is the method I copied which is the factory method. This is sewn onto the headliner flat piece (flap) at the bow seam. Fold the headliner at the bow location and leave a flap of approx 1". Attach the hoop to this. Clear as mud?

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  @jacobharryman822 Жыл бұрын

  I'm sorry to hear about the changes. That's really unfortunate. I actually took a nap and woke up to find your video auto playing. I enjoyed this video and will continue to watch your channel. Now at least you'll have a few more watch hours 😁

• 
  @tagle2818 Жыл бұрын

  2013 f150 with 87k miles here with this problem. Just replaced the vacuum pump and it's still leaking. Looks to be coming from the valve cover. I'm thinking of buying a new valve cover and gasket.

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  @cheizaguirre5494 Жыл бұрын

  I have a 2014 3.5 with 112,000 k. can i replace the VVT even tho nothing wrong with them just I’m going to replace the valve cover gasket i figure might as well since it’s already have it open?

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  Che, I wouldn't until there is a problem. The chain and the VVT sprocket wear at the same rate. You shouldn't change one without the other. It is a BIG job to change the chains, tensioner and VVT's. You can check the condition of it all by looking down to the RH side of the block (LH when facing the engine) under the chain. You will see a bracket that has 5 step marks on it. If the tensioner reveals 5 bars you should change the parts soon. You can buy an online service manual for about $40. Try the F150 or Ecoboost chats.

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  @romancamarena Жыл бұрын

  Thanks a lot for this video … gave me enough info to get this done today! Removing the cover was almost impossible and had to cut off the seals around the spark plugs pipes … I found on the Ford manual they only mention to put RTV silicon at the 2 front points you mentioned (front cover joint) but I couldn’t find anything about adding silicon to the back so I skipped that and haven’t noticed any leaks or any more smoke or burn oil smell. Do you find that rear silicon necessary ? Thanks !

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  Thanks for your comments. I have only found the front silicone to be needed. I have tried putting some around the vacuum pump housing but it didn't help in the past.

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  @shubhambhakta4989 Жыл бұрын

  I appreciate it! I’m currently trying to depin some connectors and boi it’s a pain

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  @thebluebirdbox Жыл бұрын

  Hey! So fun to see this, can't wait til you're back home soon :)

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  What a pleasant surprise to see your comment. Love you, see you soon. Lord Willing (LW)

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  @sasuke9111 Жыл бұрын

  Nice

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  @JOE_XD Жыл бұрын

  Is it the same kind of gasket on a 2010 4.6 V8 (2v)? Got an oil leak at the top left just like yours.

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  Sorry Joe. I owned one but I can't remember for sure.

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  @JOE_XD Жыл бұрын

  @@notfactoryapproved Thanks for your time, pretty sure it's similar (rubber gasket).

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  @tabbott429 Жыл бұрын

  I swapped a 5.4 engine and engine harness from a 2006 f150 to a 2005 f150 and i have one 12 pin connector that is different between the 2 trucks near the PCM. I will be trying to swap the connector from the newer truck to the older truck by releasine the pins but 4 of them are different style pins so Ill hae to splice those most likely. i hope it works as i really dont want to take the whole front body harness from the 2006 and move it to the 2005. i wish ford would design things and leave them alone ( if they work) instead of changing things like wiring connectors in the same generation of truck.

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  Hope it works. Are you able to get pinout to make sure you have the right terminals?

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  @tylerwatts1649 Жыл бұрын

  Thanks for this--getting ready to do the glass on my 46 Chevy Fleetline.

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  @notfactoryapproved Жыл бұрын

  You're welcome. That's what I did the video for.

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  @josemarquez09 Жыл бұрын

  Very informative video sir, i will use your methods for reference when instaling my glass. thanks for sharing!

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  @Pnwelkhunter2 жыл бұрын

  Thanks for the video.

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  @zidmat2 жыл бұрын

  No returns on your ends.

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  @BodeknockerBrumbill2 жыл бұрын

  My 2014 Eco boost has just developed similar leaking problem. Why do you suppose that location (passenfer side back corner) is prone to leaking? One site suggested that the cover bolts can work themselves loose. Do you think that is possible for that location?

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  @notfactoryapproved2 жыл бұрын

  Bodeknocker, I have not found the bolts to be loose. (3 times checking it before and after). I checked mine for warpage and couldn't find any. I can't see in there at all so unfortunately I cannot tell for the head and camshaft. I couldn't see any debris or cracks. I did find the first O-ring to be flattened causing the leak. I have had it leaking after that. I can slow it down considerably but I have not been able to stop it completely. Sorry I can't help. All the best, Ron.

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  @vofka52632 жыл бұрын

  👍👍👍

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  @vofka52632 жыл бұрын

  can you tell me what rubber cushions between the body and the frame?

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  @notfactoryapproved2 жыл бұрын

  Vofka, There are ready made ones available from Steeles Auto Rubber, Metro Molded and Restoration Specialties. I have found Restoration Spec to be the most reasonable for price but each of them have sales from time to time. For the body mount rubbers I made my own from rubber sheet stock Look for a rubber supplier or rubber sheet supplier. The frame to body rubber is 3/4" (about 20mm) and the rubber on the underside of the frame and top side of the body are 1/4" (about 7mm). I used long bolts with 2 large washers called fender washers. The bolts are 7/16" diameter. All the best, Ron.

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  @keyzersoze41582 жыл бұрын

  Looks like an older Cebora model.

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  @notfactoryapproved2 жыл бұрын

  Yes, Air Liquide used them for smaller units. Don't know how old it was but it was never used when I got it for $20. Obviously a cheaper unit-4 power levels, 120V. I was fortunate that it is gas compatible. Thanks for watching. I am not sure Cebora is correct but it is an Italian brand that starts with C.

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  @torreyreno75672 жыл бұрын

  looking at having to do on my 47 Olds I understand it goes in from the back inside

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  @notfactoryapproved2 жыл бұрын

  Sorry for the slow response. I missed that you were asking a question. Yes it goes in from the interior. It is possible to do it yourself but much easier with 2 people.

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  @kennybrown19772 жыл бұрын

  THANKS SO MUCH. I have been trying to figure out how to install new windshield in my '48 Chevrolet Coupe. Now I feel much better prepared. Thanks so much.

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  @cmalone202 жыл бұрын

  Your video has been most helpful. I have a 2013 3.5 Ecoboost with the same issue. I replaced the brake vacuum pump myself, first which didn't solve the leak so I know now for sure that it's the valve cover. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.

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  @saulrosales2672 Жыл бұрын

  @cmalone20 were you able to fix ,I have a 2013 ecoboost and they told me it's the valve cover gaskets. They are charging me an eyeball so I'm thinking of doing myself.

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  @jehuckabee2 жыл бұрын

  The intro to this video describes exactly what my 2014 F150 Platinum is experiencing; around town stop-and-go smell of burned oil. And at times it even smokes out of the passenger side of the hood which is embarrassing. I know the oil is coming from the back left corner of the passenger side of the valve cover. I've already replaced the vacuum pump (which is behind the cover up against the fire wall) and that was pure hell to get installed due to the part's alignment key needing to "set" blindly (by feel) from the front side of the engine. I've got the seals (ordered from AutoZone online) and am about to make the repair. This is one of the better (and few) videos on KZread that addresses how to go about this repair. Though shaky at times with the video, you can click pause and get some clear and helpful still shots throughout the video. Lots of good tidbits of spoken information provided by a stand-up guy. Thanks for posting sir!

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  @notfactoryapproved2 жыл бұрын

  You're very welcome. Thank you for the encouragement.

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  @Emilyangel420 Жыл бұрын

  Same I have a 2014 3.5 platinum at midas getting her valve covers replaced and rear breaks replaced cost me 2075

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  @cheizaguirre5494 Жыл бұрын

  Did you end up replacing ur cover did it fix the burn smell ? And any tips ? Thanks i have the same smoke and burn smell

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  @loripittard5398 Жыл бұрын

  Same that smoke coming out from under the hood was so Embarrassing

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  @vofka52632 жыл бұрын

  You can tell me how the interior heaters are turned on, which are under the front seat

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  @notfactoryapproved2 жыл бұрын

  Sure, the water runs through all the time. There is only a single speed fan switch under the dashboard.

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  @aundreamoorman82852 жыл бұрын

  Thank you Sir!! I needed to understand how to do this myself.

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  @notfactoryapproved2 жыл бұрын

  You're welcome. Glad it was useful.

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  @chejeniece76042 жыл бұрын

  lydgkf #von.ong

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  @vofka52632 жыл бұрын

  👍👍