Next Level Carpentry is for aspiring carpenters who want to take their skills to the Next Level.
The tips, tricks and methods of work featured here are things I've picked up and developed during nearly 50 years in the building trades and are what make my 'The Timber Tailor' residential/light commercial remodeling business profitable and successful.
Since I'm a master carpenter and video production amateur my hope is that viewers will find enough value in the content to learn worthwhile skills despite my less-than-great video production capabilities.
I added Patreon for viewers who want to support production of free NLC videos: www.patreon.com/NextLevelCarpentry
Correspondence or items of interest can be sent to:
Next Level Carpentry
3213 W. Main St
PMB #111
Rapid City, SD 57702
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This was extremely helpful. Thank you for making this!
You sir are the Norm Abram of KZread. The only difference is you don't hide your mistakes. You voice your frustration, then show or tell us how to fix those mistakes. I enjoy watching your videos from start to finish because it's what I enjoy, and I sure don't want to miss anything. Thanks for all your effort. It is very much appreciated!
You're too kind, Corey... but thank you!
I’m curious why you don’t put the fence of the jig on the barrel side of the hinge? The door face and jamb edge will be flush and there won’t be a need for two jigs.
Good call... that's what I normally do but, for this project I only had to rout the door edge and the original position of the fence in the video clamps on more easily to the door. Truth be told I had to backpedal when I decided to produce a video on the process, hence the fence switch-er-oo in the video.
One hour?
Yup... sorry it's so short because I much prefer going into more detail for those who don't catch on as fast.
Crooked as a bucket of snakes! That line had me LOL! Great video. I'm looking to do this on a live edge. My only worry is that is a heavy piece and about 18" thick.
I think you mean your live edge piece is about 18" WIDE, not thick? For that situation I'd be much more inclined to use a more typical straightedge clamped/fastened to the piece and make the cut with a hand-held circular saw.
Fantastic information!
Thanks for watching and commenting on this video... after all it's 4 years old with only 10K views! Some of my best tips for the process though and ones I use every time I make small mouldings!
This was an absolutely stellar build. Thank you.
I don't know why I've never thought to use tape with caulk. I tried it with some silicone and it gave it a perfect straight line! Thanks for this video.
A bit of relatively inexpensive masking tape is a real game changer, that's a for-sure! 😎
I’ve done a few projects around the house and found lumber today to be absolute crap. I’m going to purchase my first job site table saw soon so I’ll try this method.
Sad truth about a lot of fast-growth lumber sold these days. I always make every effort to buy the straightest stuff available because this would only help to get straight 2x4's out of pieces 2x6 or wider but I always have this trick up my sleeve as a backup. Best part is that I'm usually able to salvage more than a few pieces of old lumber on remodeling projects this way and avoid the high cost (and poor quality) of new lumber in the first place.
Wow …I just put a bowl on the end
I'm not gonna judge... whatever works for you!
This would make a good base for an over-arm blade guard / dust collection for a table saw
Thanks for watching and commenting on this video Stephen. The concept certainly has potential for other applications but for full disclosure I should say that, at the length built in the video, it's great for a light weight camera but would need some thoughtful engineering to support anything like a blade guard that needs to be more fixed/rigid IMHO. Best, Matt.
3 knuckles on the door so you have something to hold when hanging the door on the jamb. Ironically if you look at all the pre-hung doors in my house, it's the opposite - two knuckles on the door, making re-installation a pain. I never understood why they came backwards from the factory. One of these days I'll get around to reversing them!
Exactly!
Thanks for all the tips here. The gang cut is a stroke of brilliance! The whole idea is practical and easy to do. I will use these techniques in the future.
Oh, and I'm getting myself one of those erasers
I wish I could say I never need/use my jumbo "OOPS" eraser but I'd be lyin' if I did... I think you'll like one if/when you get one!
Hello Matt. Just curious how you and your Powermatic drill press are getting on. Any issues since you did all the repairs?
No issues whatsoever regarding function and performance. I'd buy the same machine today if I had it to do over again. There was a definite mental transition period going from A/C motor and belt drive to the way the DC motor and direct drive runs but, now that I'm used to it I'm able to do more, more quickly and efficiently than any previous drillpress type or model. I've got to say that I wish I'd switched to a keyless chuck years earlier though because that alone makes the setup and bit change process so much quicker, regardless of the motor and drive system...
Where’s the link for the graf carving disc, or the resurfacer? Your Amazon link appears to be broken or not linking…..
Thanks for bringing this to my attention Larry... not sure when or how the link got busticated but I updated the link in the video description with this link where you can find the great Graf carving disk and restorer tool: www.amazon.com/shop/nextlevelcarpentry/list/2YDX33SWCBWMR?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfnextlevelcarpentry_TW01AGW99ES2FEMJTY8Q_1 Please let me know if this answers your question and/or if you have others and I'll try to help you for helping me! Best, Matt
This is great! I'm making a tapered newel post for my stairs and I want to use your method to anchor the post. The only difference in my project is that the post is going to sit on the bottom stair which is basically hollow. Should I open it up to put a block in for stability or will that not be necessary? Great video!
This probably isn't a reply you expect: Actually I wouldn't recommend this method for your project as described. The newel would only be as solid as that bottom tread, which isn't designed for the 'stress'. That's good news because, since you can remove the bottom step you should be able to extend the new newel down through the bottom step and into the floor framing below in a more standard installation. I encourage you to do a bit more research and expect you'll find other videos that apply more directly to your project. You're a smart person to be pre-planning and thinking through your design and I'm confident your project will turn out great! Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry thank you for the advice.
In a job site situation by which i’m assuming that you are referring to framing, then why would you be straightening 4x2’s? By doing this you then alter the size of the timber therefore making it unusable for framing as it will differ to the rest of the timber
My guess is that you're lacking experience "In a jobsite situation..." because, anyone who had real-world jobsite experience has encountered plenty of situations where straight pieces of non-standard width are needed. That experience also teaches carpenters that the cost of lumber makes it more than economical to get maximum yield out of crooked boards by making straight, narrower pieces out of wider, crooked stuff, hence the lesson in the video.
Great video. I used a similar template making process for routing hinge mortise in boxes and chests. FWIW. I put the 3 knuckles of a hinge on the door because it is easier to hang the door. At least it worked for me.
Your reason is exZACTly the same as mine... no surprise to me; a pinched finger or two from 'backwards' hinges is enough to make the lesson stick for a lifetime!
@@NextLevelCarpentry And I have scars to show the other method doesn't work well. 😎
@@jerrystark6766 And every scar is a lesson learned!
@@NextLevelCarpentry As I look at my hands, it would appear that I am a learned man. 😎
too funny... if only they made fancy diplomas to recognize every 'lesson' learned by injury for us to hang on our walls!
Your "editor" is almost perfect! Not much noticeable difference in the nine million transitions from one edit to the other. Sadly, I love your information in your videos.
Uhmmm... thank you? 🤨
Thanks!
Thank YOU for the Super Thanks, Rob... much appreciated! If you're doing a similar beam project I hope this video really helps. FWIW If I were doing another beam project this week I'd use the same sequence and methods shown in this video again.
Hey Matt, Why not show us how You MAKE THE DOORS 🤷
I don't like to 'bait and switch' but can tell you I did do a couple 'behind the scenes' videos featuring the doors that got posted as Patron-only content in case you'd find enough value in learning about the doors to check it out... Best, Matt
great video. I appreciate how to the point it went.
Incredible detail! I like the frogtape and saw dust for managing glue squeeze out. I am about to glue a guitar neck to the body and for finishing purposes there can be no residual glue near the joints.
I haven't seen you for ages Matt!...Good to see you still going strong.
Thanks for sharing this Matt. You made my repair project much easier than it would have been.
You betcha! This is not the sort of thing you want to make a career out of but I can tell you the more of them you do the faster and easier it gets😊
Strap your lumber down, got it.
This video takes me back to physics class with ideal spherical cows. It was so easy to fit that jig on an idealized perfectly square door jamb. In reality door jambs are covered in trim. I don't see how that jig would fit past the door trim.
I hope you didn't miss the bigger point in physics class like you did here. Hint: don't rely on the professor to teach you, apply yourself and learn! The video shows how to easily make a template for round corner hinges, not to solve every hinge-routing situation that exists. Thinking outside the box for just a few seconds I can think of half a dozen ways to modify/ adapt the jig to work in any situation I've ever encountered and challenge you do try some creative thinking for a change.
After 3:34:56 of learning I would like to say… Amazing result!
Excellent tool, I used a damaged hard drive magnet
That’s very good Matt, I’ve made templates like that but I make them square, for radius hinges you could just use a Bering guided router bit the right size to make that 5/8 radius.
Thanks! CA glue and 1/2" HDF are great for all sorts of templates, right? : kzread.info/dash/bejne/hIeLlLyMlNyrndo.html The benefit of building the hinge corner radius into the template IMHO is that one size bit works with any radius (down to 1/4", that is) and I've not seen a 1 1/4" radius 1/4" shank flush trim bit. Of course they're using the full size bit for pre-hung door hanging machines but that's a different scenario.
Great informative video. Thank you for making this.
Perfect timing again Matt, I have a house lot of doors to replace, will definitely give this a go.
Cool... I don't like to discourage your ambition but, if you end up with new doors and jambs and there's more than a few, a dedicated hinge routing fixture that adjusts for different height door slabs and hinge count might be a more efficient way to go... and a good excuse to buy one too! Best, Matt
Very nice practical trip! Thanks for sharing.
Tahnk you, soo cool!!!
Clear and concise. Easily understood. Thank you for your excellent advice.
Okay, love the tip, but a little more information if you please. Maybe I missed it but... What type of "standard construction screw" are you using, and what gauge wire? Looks like a standard cinder block, or rather, it looks like the cinder blocks that make up my garage. Trying to put some 2x4 on my garage walls to make a French cleat wall for storage. Also, is there some reason you didn't use Tapcons? Many thanks for the tip, and I hope, reply.
My favorite is GRK Brand screws like these: www.amazon.com/dp/B001SF790A?linkCode=ssc&tag=onamzdigitalj-20&creativeASIN=B001SF790A&asc_item-id=amzn1.ideas.29WVINIJF4EUJ&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ons_d_asin but any brand of similar quality will work fine. The wire is ususally 12 or 14 gauge but that depends on if it's solid or stranded so start there and adjust accordingly. You can sure use tapcons but I wanted to show that other, less expensive types and brands work well to for many applications so use what you're comfortable with for the price. Best, Matt
This is a really helpful tutorial thank you! Im wondering about the safety of using Silica Sand... isnt it toxic to breathe?
Gasoline fumes are toxic to breathe... do you wear a haz-mat suit at the filling station or do you just stay mindful of what you're doing to avoid inhaling them? That's the perspective I use...
Well I really don’t think the hinge orientation matters. But, I always put the 3 hole in the door, two on the jamb. For aesthetics, the same reason I always clock my screws on wall plates and, whenever possible on other installations.
OK, I check all my 26 doors. Doors that open toward me with the hinge on the right have 2 knuckles. Doors that open toward me with the hinge on the leftt have 3 knuckles. I.e., the hinges are all identical and have the same orientation; no modifications were done. Here's my new guess: With 3 knuckles on the door, you can always put your thumb under the bottom (3rd) knuckle to help hoist the door into position. There is no interference from door's hinges or jamb, and no pinch hazard when mounting the door. With 2 hinge knuckles on the door, you cannot use that "thumb lift" assist, the jamb hinge 3rd knuckle gets in the way. So simple, but effective. I have all 8' 4-hinge doors and the solid doors are quite heavy - so I also use a "foot-operated lifter" (a stiff putty knife on a small block of wood). That, coupled with a "thumb lift" on the 2nd hinge from the top, should make reinstallation much easier. I'll be reversing the hinges on my right-side doors when I next remove them. Thanks NLC!
Congratulations Cayeye... you nailed it! It's simply about the ability to lift/position the door using a thumb under that bottom knuckle making the process easier and faster with far less likelihood of getting pinched in the process. So many doors are pre-hung these days and no one in the mass production environment is EVER going to take the time to "hand" the hinges to match the swing of left and right handed doors, mainly because they never have to actually hang a door. They just slap them on and screw 'em in place with the pins pointing up, which ever way the manufacturer makes their particular hinge. This is a prime example of one of my favorite quotes "you gotta make it easy on yourself because no one is going to do it for you!" Hence the dedicated Hinge Pin Removal Block I made for the purpose of handing hinges. It shows up in the video here: kzread.info/dash/bejne/c2eMmdSJksrJepc.htmlsi=ujTckio09Maqoa2O&t=280 If it generates enough interest I may even do a short video showing how to make one and offer a PDF plan... Thanks for taking a deep dive into this... your effort and conclusion settle the matter and will benefit any viewers who take a minute to read this thread. Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry It's always a pleasure watching your videos, and thanks for sharing your knowledge, creativity, and experience with us.
@@cateye45 youbetcha... just payin' it forward from the guy who taught me this back in about 1990! 😎
liked before even watching
i'm not in the game, but i put the 3 on the jamb for 3 vague reasons. 1, if the door will be off for some time, i store the pin inplace in. the 3 and looks cleaner. 2 when rehanging them [invariably alone] i can stick my hand up under that bottom knuckle without worrying about it getting pinched while guiding the knuckles to interleave w my thumb. 3. while my hand in under the bottom knuckle to guide the door into place, i leave the pin inserted into the top knuckle, askew, so it stays up there quietly. when i get the door in, it's just enough to bump it and have the pin drop into place without letting go of the door. … it takes longer to explain than to do.
Good job ! What you share is so enlightening. Thanks
What about me ? I'm here to the end of the end of the end also. So three of us. 🤣
It's a PARTY!!!🎉🎊
To much talk
"To" much talk? More like not enough basic spelling and grammar... you should work on that.
Great job!
Thanks!
Very cool!
Indeed.
LOL "this machine has no brain, use your own"
Totally appropriate, don't you agree?
Nice explanation for a part of carpentry all of us face from time to time. One house I worked in had three hinges on each door with leafs turned in different patterns so the painter could not easily place the door in a different jamb.
You're too kind: the scenario is much more likely a scatterbrained carpenter than strategic planning IMHO.
I always put the 3 on the jamb so I can precariously start the pin so it stays up there. Then I grab the door and get the top hinge in and jiggle the pin so it falls in a bit, then the bottom hinge. Curious to know why the Master does it differently. Great vid as always. Next time I make a hinge jig I will definitely try this and leave the jigsaw in its drawer.
Gotta do what works for you, even if it's opposite. Stay tuned for my explanation... I'm still waiting for someone to hit the bullseye.
I really didn’t think it made any difference on the hinge knuckles. Weather the jamb, or the door has the 3 knuckles. Some hinges have pins held in place with a set screw. You can’t flip the hinge to put 3 knuckles on the door for both left and right swing doors. If you do, one swing will have the pins go in upside down.
I don't think there's a functional difference between the two orientations but there IS a difference I prefer. BTW Even hinges with "nerps" (NonRemovablePins) can be flipped but it requires driving out the little button on the bottom of the bottom 3rd knuckle and re-driving it into the top knuckle. It works because the nerp screw is in the center of the center knuckle so it's 'ambidexterous'. FWIW I've done this exact thing on hundreds of commercial grade ball bearing style heavy duty hinges.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thanks for your answer. I always enjoy your videos. You do everything well, and I admire that. “How you do anything, is how you do everything!”